OM617 Blind timing advance
OM617 Blind timing advance
11-09-2014, 02:39 PM
#1
![[Image: 1609619_397517377080462_1708773673255250...576944.jpg]](http://s508.photobucket.com/user/evenglass1/media/1609619_397517377080462_1708773673255250396_n_zpse5576944.jpg.html)
Before
I adjusted to line up marks.
![[Image: 10409028_397517363747130_316162586176121...3b9acd.jpg]](http://s508.photobucket.com/user/evenglass1/media/10409028_397517363747130_3161625861761213634_n_zpsb43b9acd.jpg.html)
After
Was this a bad idea to do blindly without drip timing? Why didn't the marks line up before? Should I try to run this? thoughts? And for the life of me I can't get the bolt back on at the back of the pump, any harm in leaving it off?
Valves adjusted 5500 miles ago. Chain stretch within spec at 3*
This post was last modified: 11-09-2014, 03:04 PM by Evenglass.
So my 617 has always been on the quiet side even with straight exhaust it really doesn't have that diesel sound. So while maintenance some stuff I noticed that the hash marks on the Injection pump don't line up. It appears the pump is set timing retarded.
Before
I adjusted to line up marks.
After
Was this a bad idea to do blindly without drip timing? Why didn't the marks line up before? Should I try to run this? thoughts? And for the life of me I can't get the bolt back on at the back of the pump, any harm in leaving it off?
Valves adjusted 5500 miles ago. Chain stretch within spec at 3*
11-09-2014, 06:03 PM
#2
(11-09-2014, 02:39 PM)Evenglass So my 617 has always been on the quiet side even with straight exhaust it really doesn't have that diesel sound. So while maintenance some stuff I noticed that the hash marks on the Injection pump don't line up. It appears the pump is set timing retarded.
Was this a bad idea to do blindly without drip timing? Why didn't the marks line up before? Should I try to run this? thoughts? And for the life of me I can't get the bolt back on at the back of the pump, any harm in leaving it off?
Valves adjusted 5500 miles ago. Chain stretch within spec at 3*
No problem running the pump in that position. But it is a problem if the bolt is missing, you should put all bolts in.
Adjust valves again after that mileage.
You can even turn the pump more early, so that the pump marker is 1 mm above the engine block marker.
Gruß
Volker
(11-09-2014, 02:39 PM)Evenglass So my 617 has always been on the quiet side even with straight exhaust it really doesn't have that diesel sound. So while maintenance some stuff I noticed that the hash marks on the Injection pump don't line up. It appears the pump is set timing retarded.
Was this a bad idea to do blindly without drip timing? Why didn't the marks line up before? Should I try to run this? thoughts? And for the life of me I can't get the bolt back on at the back of the pump, any harm in leaving it off?
Valves adjusted 5500 miles ago. Chain stretch within spec at 3*
No problem running the pump in that position. But it is a problem if the bolt is missing, you should put all bolts in.
Adjust valves again after that mileage.
You can even turn the pump more early, so that the pump marker is 1 mm above the engine block marker.
Gruß
Volker
11-10-2014, 08:48 AM
#4
(11-09-2014, 06:03 PM)Volker407(11-09-2014, 02:39 PM)Evenglass So my 617 has always been on the quiet side even with straight exhaust it really doesn't have that diesel sound. So while maintenance some stuff I noticed that the hash marks on the Injection pump don't line up. It appears the pump is set timing retarded.
Was this a bad idea to do blindly without drip timing? Why didn't the marks line up before? Should I try to run this? thoughts? And for the life of me I can't get the bolt back on at the back of the pump, any harm in leaving it off?
Valves adjusted 5500 miles ago. Chain stretch within spec at 3*
No problem running the pump in that position. But it is a problem if the bolt is missing, you should put all bolts in.
Adjust valves again after that mileage.
You can even turn the pump more early, so that the pump marker is 1 mm above the engine block marker.
Gruß
Volker
I agree on all counts. If you advance it too far, it will knock. So, you can adjust until it starts knocking, then retard a little bit. That will put you pretty darn close to perfect timing.
From what I've seen on my old 617, you can advance beyond the factory recommended timing by a few degrees and get a little more torque.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-10-2014, 08:48 AM #4(11-09-2014, 06:03 PM)Volker407(11-09-2014, 02:39 PM)Evenglass So my 617 has always been on the quiet side even with straight exhaust it really doesn't have that diesel sound. So while maintenance some stuff I noticed that the hash marks on the Injection pump don't line up. It appears the pump is set timing retarded.
Was this a bad idea to do blindly without drip timing? Why didn't the marks line up before? Should I try to run this? thoughts? And for the life of me I can't get the bolt back on at the back of the pump, any harm in leaving it off?
Valves adjusted 5500 miles ago. Chain stretch within spec at 3*
No problem running the pump in that position. But it is a problem if the bolt is missing, you should put all bolts in.
Adjust valves again after that mileage.
You can even turn the pump more early, so that the pump marker is 1 mm above the engine block marker.
Gruß
Volker
I agree on all counts. If you advance it too far, it will knock. So, you can adjust until it starts knocking, then retard a little bit. That will put you pretty darn close to perfect timing.
From what I've seen on my old 617, you can advance beyond the factory recommended timing by a few degrees and get a little more torque.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
11-10-2014, 09:38 AM
#5
(11-10-2014, 08:37 AM)Keino If you mean the bolt back of the pump (not the 3 in front) you can skip that one. been driving xxxxx km's without it. No probs
That's the one! I did manage to get it back in.
(11-10-2014, 08:48 AM)Simpler=BetterSo it's not mandatory to drip time? I can adjust by sound a little at a time until it starts to knock then turn it back a bit? I like option 2(11-09-2014, 06:03 PM)Volker407(11-09-2014, 02:39 PM)Evenglass So my 617 has always been on the quiet side even with straight exhaust it really doesn't have that diesel sound. So while maintenance some stuff I noticed that the hash marks on the Injection pump don't line up. It appears the pump is set timing retarded.
Was this a bad idea to do blindly without drip timing? Why didn't the marks line up before? Should I try to run this? thoughts? And for the life of me I can't get the bolt back on at the back of the pump, any harm in leaving it off?
Valves adjusted 5500 miles ago. Chain stretch within spec at 3*
No problem running the pump in that position. But it is a problem if the bolt is missing, you should put all bolts in.
Adjust valves again after that mileage.
You can even turn the pump more early, so that the pump marker is 1 mm above the engine block marker.
Gruß
Volker
I agree on all counts. If you advance it too far, it will knock. So, you can adjust until it starts knocking, then retard a little bit. That will put you pretty darn close to perfect timing.
From what I've seen on my old 617, you can advance beyond the factory recommended timing by a few degrees and get a little more torque.
This post was last modified: 11-10-2014, 09:43 AM by Evenglass.
(11-10-2014, 08:37 AM)Keino If you mean the bolt back of the pump (not the 3 in front) you can skip that one. been driving xxxxx km's without it. No probs
That's the one! I did manage to get it back in.
(11-10-2014, 08:48 AM)Simpler=BetterSo it's not mandatory to drip time? I can adjust by sound a little at a time until it starts to knock then turn it back a bit? I like option 2(11-09-2014, 06:03 PM)Volker407(11-09-2014, 02:39 PM)Evenglass So my 617 has always been on the quiet side even with straight exhaust it really doesn't have that diesel sound. So while maintenance some stuff I noticed that the hash marks on the Injection pump don't line up. It appears the pump is set timing retarded.
Was this a bad idea to do blindly without drip timing? Why didn't the marks line up before? Should I try to run this? thoughts? And for the life of me I can't get the bolt back on at the back of the pump, any harm in leaving it off?
Valves adjusted 5500 miles ago. Chain stretch within spec at 3*
No problem running the pump in that position. But it is a problem if the bolt is missing, you should put all bolts in.
Adjust valves again after that mileage.
You can even turn the pump more early, so that the pump marker is 1 mm above the engine block marker.
Gruß
Volker
I agree on all counts. If you advance it too far, it will knock. So, you can adjust until it starts knocking, then retard a little bit. That will put you pretty darn close to perfect timing.
From what I've seen on my old 617, you can advance beyond the factory recommended timing by a few degrees and get a little more torque.
11-10-2014, 10:40 AM
#6
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-10-2014, 10:40 AM #6The drip lets you get a concrete number but it isn't necessary if you don't mind playing with a bit.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
11-10-2014, 01:19 PM
#7
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
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