Persistent annoying engine noise -OM605
Persistent annoying engine noise -OM605
11-03-2014, 11:00 AM
#1
What I am into: New SD314 nozzles on the way, but that wont solve belt noise even if it solves nailing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvWMqhvC...e=youtu.be
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Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
Hello people.. I need help from more skilled ones with these engines. I have read many threads on this topic, but only one seemed to have solved it. As the guy said, "it was clodged center oil hole in timing sprocked", as he cleaned it, noises stopped. Does that sprocked have this center hole? Could it be the cause? I have run into several people having this issue so I guess its not so uncommon. That loud buzing is V-belt, its damper is fresh new Febi unit, no change at all. Harder to hear is engine itself, which when enter said RPMs will start to nail and klack like crazy, under or above its quiet as seen on video. What do you suggest?
What I am into: New SD314 nozzles on the way, but that wont solve belt noise even if it solves nailing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvWMqhvC...e=youtu.be
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
11-04-2014, 03:42 AM
#2
(11-03-2014, 11:00 AM)starynovy Hello people.. I need help from more skilled ones with these engines. I have read many threads on this topic, but only one seemed to have solved it. As the guy said, "it was clodged center oil hole in timing sprocked", as he cleaned it, noises stopped. Does that sprocked have this center hole? Could it be the cause? I have run into several people having this issue so I guess its not so uncommon. That loud buzing is V-belt, its damper is fresh new Febi unit, no change at all. Harder to hear is engine itself, which when enter said RPMs will start to nail and klack like crazy, under or above its quiet as seen on video. What do you suggest?
What I am into: New SD314 nozzles on the way, but that wont solve belt noise even if it solves nailing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvWMqhvC...e=youtu.be
Have you tried to run the engine without the belt?
EDH_Performance
11-04-2014, 03:42 AM #2(11-03-2014, 11:00 AM)starynovy Hello people.. I need help from more skilled ones with these engines. I have read many threads on this topic, but only one seemed to have solved it. As the guy said, "it was clodged center oil hole in timing sprocked", as he cleaned it, noises stopped. Does that sprocked have this center hole? Could it be the cause? I have run into several people having this issue so I guess its not so uncommon. That loud buzing is V-belt, its damper is fresh new Febi unit, no change at all. Harder to hear is engine itself, which when enter said RPMs will start to nail and klack like crazy, under or above its quiet as seen on video. What do you suggest?
What I am into: New SD314 nozzles on the way, but that wont solve belt noise even if it solves nailing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvWMqhvC...e=youtu.be
Have you tried to run the engine without the belt?
11-06-2014, 03:42 PM
#3
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
Will try that when I fit shorter belt to remove AC compressor. But that nailing is clearly audible and should not be there. I will make video without belt so its only nailing. In the mean time I changed nozzles, no change.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
11-07-2014, 05:37 PM
#4
(11-06-2014, 03:42 PM)starynovy Will try that when I fit shorter belt to remove AC compressor. But that nailing is clearly audible and should not be there. I will make video without belt so its only nailing. In the mean time I changed nozzles, no change.
Like I mentioned in the other thread, the nozzles need time to settle. But I don´t think it is nozzle related.
To me it sounds like a loose metal line or fitting, rattling on the main engine block or cylinder head.
Gruß
Volker
(11-06-2014, 03:42 PM)starynovy Will try that when I fit shorter belt to remove AC compressor. But that nailing is clearly audible and should not be there. I will make video without belt so its only nailing. In the mean time I changed nozzles, no change.
Like I mentioned in the other thread, the nozzles need time to settle. But I don´t think it is nozzle related.
To me it sounds like a loose metal line or fitting, rattling on the main engine block or cylinder head.
Gruß
Volker
11-07-2014, 06:24 PM
#5
Well I am sure it comes from tensioner assembly. But the upper bolt is firm, as it was previously stripped I cut new M10 thread and fitted new bigger bolt and new damper with enlarged hole to accomodate M10 bolt ofc. When I get engine in those RPMs, belt starts to oscilate and that cause those noises I presume. But why on earth it oscilates if its dampened by new Febi dampener? Is something else in that assembly prone to failure? This is not normal operation.
11-08-2014, 01:42 PM
#7
Duncansport
11-08-2014, 01:42 PM #7Classis damper noise. May be a frozen or sticking tensioner arm pivot as well
11-08-2014, 04:00 PM
#8
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
It will have something to do with that arm for sure as I changed two dampers one of which is new and it still buzzes. Thanks for pointing this out, will investigate. There will be bolt hidden behind plastic cap on pivot point I suppose?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
11-09-2014, 03:26 AM
#9
605 should have a bushing in the arm, in that case best renew both bolt & arm. And whilst you'r at it; get a new tensioner pulley too! They'r cheap enough.
DiseaselWeasel
11-09-2014, 03:26 AM #9Yes.
605 should have a bushing in the arm, in that case best renew both bolt & arm. And whilst you'r at it; get a new tensioner pulley too! They'r cheap enough.
11-09-2014, 05:01 AM
#10
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
So I took it apart and there is some play in that arm, about 0.3mm. And the noise is caused by oscilating belt hitting vac pump and pivot itself as it runs in close proximity. Now to see how much that arm costs.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
11-16-2014, 07:24 AM
#11
DiseaselWeasel
11-16-2014, 07:24 AM #11renew damper too!! Damper itself might feel fine - but the bolt eye wears out...
11-16-2014, 09:46 AM
#12
(11-16-2014, 07:24 AM)DiseaselWeasel renew damper too!! Damper itself might feel fine - but the bolt eye wears out...
I have new damper, and found whole arm with pivot bolt for some 35€.. so 55€ with damper. Both FEBI so will see how it lasts.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
(11-16-2014, 07:24 AM)DiseaselWeasel renew damper too!! Damper itself might feel fine - but the bolt eye wears out...
I have new damper, and found whole arm with pivot bolt for some 35€.. so 55€ with damper. Both FEBI so will see how it lasts.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
11-18-2014, 02:47 AM
#13
Also there is different belts depending on the wheel size of the servo pump.
Had this problem with the v-belt that it was buzzing. I got it when i deleted the AC pump and the belt i ordered was a PK2080 belt. New tensioner, damper, v-belt and wheel. The damper could reach 190C (IR thermometer) on idle due to the vibration from belt. I got this problem sorted out when i mounted a slightly shorter belt. Now i have a PK2040 and the engine is silent and smooth.
Also there is different belts depending on the wheel size of the servo pump.
11-18-2014, 03:46 AM
#14
(11-18-2014, 02:47 AM)EvoPeter Had this problem with the v-belt that it was buzzing. I got it when i deleted the AC pump and the belt i ordered was a PK2080 belt. New tensioner, damper, v-belt and wheel. The damper could reach 190C (IR thermometer) on idle due to the vibration from belt. I got this problem sorted out when i mounted a slightly shorter belt. Now i have a PK2040 and the engine is silent and smooth.
Also there is different belts depending on the wheel size of the servo pump.
Ohohoho thats much appreciated info, that damper gets insanely hot and belt also oscilates. I deleted AC compresor like you and ordered belt for cars without AC but I will check its lenght. Thanks.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
(11-18-2014, 02:47 AM)EvoPeter Had this problem with the v-belt that it was buzzing. I got it when i deleted the AC pump and the belt i ordered was a PK2080 belt. New tensioner, damper, v-belt and wheel. The damper could reach 190C (IR thermometer) on idle due to the vibration from belt. I got this problem sorted out when i mounted a slightly shorter belt. Now i have a PK2040 and the engine is silent and smooth.
Also there is different belts depending on the wheel size of the servo pump.
Ohohoho thats much appreciated info, that damper gets insanely hot and belt also oscilates. I deleted AC compresor like you and ordered belt for cars without AC but I will check its lenght. Thanks.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
11-19-2014, 07:48 AM
#15
(11-18-2014, 03:46 AM)starynovy Ohohoho thats much appreciated info, that damper gets insanely hot and belt also oscilates. I deleted AC compresor like you and ordered belt for cars without AC but I will check its lenght. Thanks.
Glad i could help. I tried everything before i ordered a new belt. Only thing that helped was to adjust the idle to 1000rpm but who whats the idle that high on a car?
Now its about 600rpm without problem.
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Mercedes 190 -92, om605 Stroker 2.75L, Dieselmeken 7,5mm (160cc) EDC with Baldur DSL1 ECU, Garrett GTX3576R A/R 1.06 without WG, SMF, 716.661 (SG-S370/6) Gearbox
(11-18-2014, 03:46 AM)starynovy Ohohoho thats much appreciated info, that damper gets insanely hot and belt also oscilates. I deleted AC compresor like you and ordered belt for cars without AC but I will check its lenght. Thanks.
Glad i could help. I tried everything before i ordered a new belt. Only thing that helped was to adjust the idle to 1000rpm but who whats the idle that high on a car?
Now its about 600rpm without problem.
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Mercedes 190 -92, om605 Stroker 2.75L, Dieselmeken 7,5mm (160cc) EDC with Baldur DSL1 ECU, Garrett GTX3576R A/R 1.06 without WG, SMF, 716.661 (SG-S370/6) Gearbox
12-28-2014, 06:24 PM
#16
If you change the alternator wheel to a freewheel it will probably be fine, ive had this problem with a 606
01-08-2015, 09:14 AM
#17
(12-28-2014, 06:24 PM)MrHope If you change the alternator wheel to a freewheel it will probably be fine, ive had this problem with a 606
How did u do that? On my alternators (Valeo) the output shaft is to short to fit a free wheel as i can see it.
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Mercedes 190 -92, om605 Stroker 2.75L, Dieselmeken 7,5mm (160cc) EDC with Baldur DSL1 ECU, Garrett GTX3576R A/R 1.06 without WG, SMF, 716.661 (SG-S370/6) Gearbox
(12-28-2014, 06:24 PM)MrHope If you change the alternator wheel to a freewheel it will probably be fine, ive had this problem with a 606
How did u do that? On my alternators (Valeo) the output shaft is to short to fit a free wheel as i can see it.
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Mercedes 190 -92, om605 Stroker 2.75L, Dieselmeken 7,5mm (160cc) EDC with Baldur DSL1 ECU, Garrett GTX3576R A/R 1.06 without WG, SMF, 716.661 (SG-S370/6) Gearbox
01-08-2015, 10:29 AM
#18
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Mercedes 190 -92, om605 Stroker 2.75L, Dieselmeken 7,5mm (160cc) EDC with Baldur DSL1 ECU, Garrett GTX3576R A/R 1.06 without WG, SMF, 716.661 (SG-S370/6) Gearbox
This free wheel generator is very hard to source for a om605 but i finaly found one Bosch 0123320046 from a om602 2,9TD. Would be good in my car as it frequently visit the tracks.
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Mercedes 190 -92, om605 Stroker 2.75L, Dieselmeken 7,5mm (160cc) EDC with Baldur DSL1 ECU, Garrett GTX3576R A/R 1.06 without WG, SMF, 716.661 (SG-S370/6) Gearbox
01-17-2015, 12:39 PM
#19
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Mercedes 190 -92, om605 Stroker 2.75L, Dieselmeken 7,5mm (160cc) EDC with Baldur DSL1 ECU, Garrett GTX3576R A/R 1.06 without WG, SMF, 716.661 (SG-S370/6) Gearbox
Looks like you can just buy the free wheel and convert.
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Mercedes 190 -92, om605 Stroker 2.75L, Dieselmeken 7,5mm (160cc) EDC with Baldur DSL1 ECU, Garrett GTX3576R A/R 1.06 without WG, SMF, 716.661 (SG-S370/6) Gearbox
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