450 se diff in w123?
450 se diff in w123?
As far as i understand it will mount right up but i need to change axles and the disk thing to the bigger on. i know this is a 1.3l diff, seems w123 only had the 1.1l. Dont know how much of a diff this is.
as an alternative i could pull the rear suspension if it'll bolt in, but i believe they are too wide.
Theres a 450se(w116) in my local pull yard. should be a 3.07 or 3.06. perfect for after my turbo. I cant seems to find anything about putting this in my car.
As far as i understand it will mount right up but i need to change axles and the disk thing to the bigger on. i know this is a 1.3l diff, seems w123 only had the 1.1l. Dont know how much of a diff this is.
as an alternative i could pull the rear suspension if it'll bolt in, but i believe they are too wide.
3.07 or 3.06 is correct, and a bit sturdier than the w123 1.1liter 3.07 (witch you on the other hand have quite a few of over there, and that fits totaly straight away)
what you need to do with the flange on the other hand is more of a project.
remove the old flange and putting the new one there isnt a 100% succesrate.
it is the same way as in a wheelbearing in the back, it should be torque tightened.
to do it proper, dissemble the "entire" differential, change the "spacer washer" and torque tighten the stuff back...
http://mbturbo.com/overhauling-a-differential/
part numbers for the 2.65 diff i think should work for yours to, aswell as some pictures.
---
a "better" option might be to change the driveshaft between gearbox and differential to one from a w116 straigt away, especially if you are gona rebuild the front anyhow to fit a non original gearbox/engine. a larger flexdisc is always nice.
you can change the yoke, and tighten it back straight away with success to, but some have talked about noise, and unhappy bearings, while other have had no problem at al. ive done it with success (so far) stressing a night before going to the track when i didnt have time to do it properly
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
swampmonkey
10-23-2014, 06:39 AM #2it fits straight away besides the yoke/flange ("disc thingy") if you swap the axles.
3.07 or 3.06 is correct, and a bit sturdier than the w123 1.1liter 3.07 (witch you on the other hand have quite a few of over there, and that fits totaly straight away)
what you need to do with the flange on the other hand is more of a project.
remove the old flange and putting the new one there isnt a 100% succesrate.
it is the same way as in a wheelbearing in the back, it should be torque tightened.
to do it proper, dissemble the "entire" differential, change the "spacer washer" and torque tighten the stuff back...
http://mbturbo.com/overhauling-a-differential/
part numbers for the 2.65 diff i think should work for yours to, aswell as some pictures.
---
a "better" option might be to change the driveshaft between gearbox and differential to one from a w116 straigt away, especially if you are gona rebuild the front anyhow to fit a non original gearbox/engine. a larger flexdisc is always nice.
you can change the yoke, and tighten it back straight away with success to, but some have talked about noise, and unhappy bearings, while other have had no problem at al. ive done it with success (so far) stressing a night before going to the track when i didnt have time to do it properly
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
first you need to use 123 axles, i want sure if id use 116 or 123 but 116 are longer.
2 the rear drive line of the 450se fit the front driveline on my 240. splines were the same and length was too. made this swap super easy. i may still have the driveline re-balanced with the 2 mismatched peices if it vibrates a lot.
also diff bolts were tight but did line up. anyone know were to buy the "nut" part that holds the carrier bearing in? or do i gotta wait for a junkyard car to pull it out of? one of mine stripped
some pics for size comparision
So i did this recently. few things i can say,
first you need to use 123 axles, i want sure if id use 116 or 123 but 116 are longer.
2 the rear drive line of the 450se fit the front driveline on my 240. splines were the same and length was too. made this swap super easy. i may still have the driveline re-balanced with the 2 mismatched peices if it vibrates a lot.
also diff bolts were tight but did line up. anyone know were to buy the "nut" part that holds the carrier bearing in? or do i gotta wait for a junkyard car to pull it out of? one of mine stripped
some pics for size comparision
(11-21-2014, 12:38 AM)Edian727 anyone know were to buy the "nut" part that holds the carrier bearing in? or do i gotta wait for a junkyard car to pull it out of? one of mine stripped
Do you mean the little flat bar thingy that is captive in the body and that the center bearing housing bolts to?
If so it's A116 413 00 17 and is common to all the models of that era...eg 107: 123: 126 etc. But it's only a short length of 1/4" flatbar with an M8 thread in the center. Could you not make one faster than having to wait?
.
(11-21-2014, 12:38 AM)Edian727 anyone know were to buy the "nut" part that holds the carrier bearing in? or do i gotta wait for a junkyard car to pull it out of? one of mine stripped
Do you mean the little flat bar thingy that is captive in the body and that the center bearing housing bolts to?
If so it's A116 413 00 17 and is common to all the models of that era...eg 107: 123: 126 etc. But it's only a short length of 1/4" flatbar with an M8 thread in the center. Could you not make one faster than having to wait?
.
4 Guest(s)
4 Guest(s)