Clean cylinder head inlets in situ?

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Naturally-aspirated

8

03-02-2015, 01:08 PM #1

I removed the old worn T3 turbo on my '83 300TD this weekend to replace it with a fresher KKK turbo. I also decided to replace the leaking turbo oil drain seal... which was completely hardened and wasted almost 5 hours of my time... ugh.

Anyway, on taking off the inlet manifold, I notice that the valve stems and inlet ports of the cylinder head are simply caked in oily soot. Couple questions on this:

1) Should I even care about the soot? I suspect an oil leak from the turbo and the EGR have caused the buildup.

2) If I should care about it, can I have a go at removing it in situ? What would be the safest technique?

Cheers, Ben

raysorenson

Superturbo

1,162

03-02-2015, 01:45 PM #2

This is done by walnut shell blasting. A plate is bolted over the port face, the valves are closed and you blast away.

Or don't worry about it.

I had a combustion issue from using AFT for fuel and keeping the egr functional. This sort of snowballed into a situation with seriously caked up ports and valves. The backs of my valves looked like little black Christmas trees. I fixed my combustion problem, disabled EGR and started burning diesel fuel again. The next time I had cause to pull my intake, the goo was gone. My ports and valves looked normal.

corrieb

Naturally-aspirated

8

03-02-2015, 03:02 PM #3

K thanks. I'm allergic to walnuts, so I won't be blasting them any time soon Wink

Maybe the head just gets hot enough to eventually burn that stuff off. If so, the new turbo + disabling the EGR should avoid any new build-up. Do people have much experience with the products you pour into the intake?

Eg. http://www.jlmlubricants.com/en/products...gr-cleaner

sassparilla_kid

diesel > all other fuels

1,618

03-02-2015, 09:01 PM #4

If you feel like spending the money on a water/alcohol injection setup you could always do that, it should help clean things up while you're driving, and there's a performance gain with it too Wink

I used this stuff, although I think I might modify it with an extra valve and add a nozzle so I can have different stages:
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/pump...-pump.html

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/push...valve.html

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/push...older.html

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/nozz...s-do3.html

This post was last modified: 03-02-2015, 09:04 PM by sassparilla_kid.

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

EDH_Performance

Holset

537

03-03-2015, 02:09 PM #5

You can use a vacum cleaner, and fit a long tube (10-15mm) in the end...Then you can have the valve closed and scrape/suck the buildup with the tube Smile

Works like a charm!

This post was last modified: 03-03-2015, 02:10 PM by EDH_Performance.

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