Rudolf_diesel's Air-Water intercooler
Rudolf_diesel's Air-Water intercooler
09-30-2009, 10:03 PM
#1
I am going to use this IC, got for $59.00 on eBay.
I am also going to use a manifold from a NA ca. 1976 pictured here:
(I have already started to modify the intake)
I plan on cutting one side of the IC plenum off and welding it to the intake manifold. It may require some fabricating of a transition from IC to manifold or I might get away with just trim the IC to fit.
I will post more pics when I get the IC.
This post was last modified: 10-19-2009, 09:11 PM by Rudolf_Diesel.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
09-30-2009, 10:03 PM #1I am bored and need a challenge so I decided to go with the A/W IC, but taking a different path.
I am going to use this IC, got for $59.00 on eBay.
I am also going to use a manifold from a NA ca. 1976 pictured here:
(I have already started to modify the intake)
I plan on cutting one side of the IC plenum off and welding it to the intake manifold. It may require some fabricating of a transition from IC to manifold or I might get away with just trim the IC to fit.
I will post more pics when I get the IC.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
ForcedInduction
10-01-2009, 12:43 PM
#3
Hey! This was my idea! 
Can't wait to see the results, lookin good!
10-01-2009, 02:08 PM
#4
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
10-01-2009, 02:08 PM #4You guys are just awsome! This looks like a great path.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
10-01-2009, 03:40 PM
#5
'78 300D, OM617.912: 4spd manual, TB03 at 10PSI, 26*BTDC, DV's turned, HVAC, emissions system removed, e-fan, short ram, 3" downpipe to straight exhaust, W126 Bendix brakes, MR2 Spyder seats. 2890lbs
No you guys are all jockin my idea! BTW, if anyone needs it, I can weld aluminum. Shipping might be the problem though.
'78 300D, OM617.912: 4spd manual, TB03 at 10PSI, 26*BTDC, DV's turned, HVAC, emissions system removed, e-fan, short ram, 3" downpipe to straight exhaust, W126 Bendix brakes, MR2 Spyder seats. 2890lbs
10-01-2009, 03:48 PM
#6
(10-01-2009, 03:40 PM)kamel Shipping might be the problem though.
Why?
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
10-01-2009, 03:48 PM #6(10-01-2009, 03:40 PM)kamel Shipping might be the problem though.
Why?
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
10-01-2009, 05:05 PM
#7
All great work, this site has some great wrench'n going on.
I think we are all on the same page with the I/C design, I have an '03 Cobra I/C core that I was going to use on my intake but I think I will see what I can find at SEMA. I should get another intake before I cut my only one up, I did find the electric Cobra I/C pump sitting around but I would like to get a brushless pump to complete the job.
All great work, this site has some great wrench'n going on.
10-02-2009, 10:34 AM
#8
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
10-03-2009, 11:43 PM
#9
(09-30-2009, 10:03 PM)Rudolf_Diesel I am bored and need a challenge so I decided to go with the A/W IC, but taking a different path.
I am going to use this IC, got for $59.00 on eBay.
I am also going to use a manifold from a NA ca. 1976 pictured here:
(I have already started to modify the intake)
Take the time to do some clean up porting on the inside of the intake, just make sure there are no sharp edges to the runners. Good job!
I plan on cutting one side of the IC plenum off and welding it to the intake manifold. It may require some fabricating of a transition from IC to manifold or I might get away with just trim the IC to fit.
I will post more pics when I get the IC.
(09-30-2009, 10:03 PM)Rudolf_Diesel I am bored and need a challenge so I decided to go with the A/W IC, but taking a different path.
I am going to use this IC, got for $59.00 on eBay.
I am also going to use a manifold from a NA ca. 1976 pictured here:
(I have already started to modify the intake)
Take the time to do some clean up porting on the inside of the intake, just make sure there are no sharp edges to the runners. Good job!
I plan on cutting one side of the IC plenum off and welding it to the intake manifold. It may require some fabricating of a transition from IC to manifold or I might get away with just trim the IC to fit.
I will post more pics when I get the IC.
10-08-2009, 08:35 PM
#10
This post was last modified: 10-19-2009, 09:25 PM by Rudolf_Diesel.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
10-08-2009, 08:35 PM #10Here are some pics of the progress thus far:
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
10-08-2009, 10:52 PM
#12
(10-08-2009, 09:55 PM)tantank79 Nice!
I like your jig table setup as well.
Thanks, I will test fit this weekend and make sure all is well before I finish the welding.
It was kind of slow yesterday so I drilled and tapped 40 holes in our welding table. It worked out quite well for this application.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
10-08-2009, 10:52 PM #12(10-08-2009, 09:55 PM)tantank79 Nice!
I like your jig table setup as well.
Thanks, I will test fit this weekend and make sure all is well before I finish the welding.
It was kind of slow yesterday so I drilled and tapped 40 holes in our welding table. It worked out quite well for this application.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
10-09-2009, 12:23 AM
#13
ForcedInduction
10-09-2009, 12:23 AM
#13
Very professional. Isn't it going to be a bit wide though? I know it will fit a 126's cavern, but it would hit the fender in a W123.
10-09-2009, 12:35 AM
#14
'78 300D, OM617.912: 4spd manual, TB03 at 10PSI, 26*BTDC, DV's turned, HVAC, emissions system removed, e-fan, short ram, 3" downpipe to straight exhaust, W126 Bendix brakes, MR2 Spyder seats. 2890lbs
10-09-2009, 08:16 AM
#15
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
It's a bit late for this but does anyone know what air temps are seen on the intake side? I am worried that heat soak from the engine might actually degrade performance. Certain a good reason to start with the long runners. Man I wish I had a shop like you
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
10-09-2009, 09:10 AM
#17
(10-09-2009, 08:16 AM)winmutt It's a bit late for this but does anyone know what air temps are seen on the intake side?
Hot enough to boil 60:40 coolant after ~40 seconds at 18psi.
Heat soak hasn't been an issue for me. The outlet of the intercooler has always been cool.
Mine has silicone boots on both ends to insulate it from conducting engine heat, but Rudolf_Diesel's might since it has indirect contact with the cylinder head.
This post was last modified: 10-09-2009, 09:13 AM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
10-09-2009, 09:10 AM
#17
(10-09-2009, 08:16 AM)winmutt It's a bit late for this but does anyone know what air temps are seen on the intake side?
Hot enough to boil 60:40 coolant after ~40 seconds at 18psi.
Heat soak hasn't been an issue for me. The outlet of the intercooler has always been cool.
Mine has silicone boots on both ends to insulate it from conducting engine heat, but Rudolf_Diesel's might since it has indirect contact with the cylinder head.
10-09-2009, 09:13 AM
#18
It is nice when you have some cool tools at work - Lathe, Mill, Power tools galore, Plasma, Oxy-Acetylene, MIG, TIG, SMAW - I just need to learn the CNC! - Before the divorce I had everything, but the lathe and CNC.
This post was last modified: 10-09-2009, 09:15 AM by Rudolf_Diesel.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
10-09-2009, 09:13 AM #18It should take up less room than my current set up, but I will do the test fit to see if there are any clearance problems. The weight of the unit is also a concern so I am also planning on adding some support gussets and maybe a strut rod underneath and they will also serve as a mount for a heat shield.
It is nice when you have some cool tools at work - Lathe, Mill, Power tools galore, Plasma, Oxy-Acetylene, MIG, TIG, SMAW - I just need to learn the CNC! - Before the divorce I had everything, but the lathe and CNC.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
10-09-2009, 10:54 AM
#19
-Rolf
(10-09-2009, 09:10 AM)ForcedInduction(10-09-2009, 08:16 AM)winmutt It's a bit late for this but does anyone know what air temps are seen on the intake side?
Hot enough to boil 60:40 coolant after ~40 seconds at 18psi.
Heat soak hasn't been an issue for me. The outlet of the intercooler has always been cool.
Mine has silicone boots on both ends to insulate it from conducting engine heat, but Rudolf_Diesel's might since it has indirect contact with the cylinder head.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Wow, I didn't expect it to get that hot. That pretty much resolves the question of heatsoak as the intake manifold gets hot but not that hot.
-Rolf
(10-09-2009, 09:10 AM)ForcedInduction(10-09-2009, 08:16 AM)winmutt It's a bit late for this but does anyone know what air temps are seen on the intake side?
Hot enough to boil 60:40 coolant after ~40 seconds at 18psi.
Heat soak hasn't been an issue for me. The outlet of the intercooler has always been cool.
Mine has silicone boots on both ends to insulate it from conducting engine heat, but Rudolf_Diesel's might since it has indirect contact with the cylinder head.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
10-09-2009, 11:13 AM
#20
The manifold gets hot from heat conducted from contact with the cylinder head, but there is a significant difference in how hot it feels from before and after the intercooler was installed.
Before, it would be in the burn range to try and hold onto it. After, its "tolerable" hot.
I think machining the manifold to fit plastic insulators on the head face and stud tube halves would make a noteworthy difference.
ForcedInduction
10-09-2009, 11:13 AM
#20
Just to clarify, thats at the turbo side of the intercooler where the water is boiling. The coolant flow direction is opposite the airflow.
The manifold gets hot from heat conducted from contact with the cylinder head, but there is a significant difference in how hot it feels from before and after the intercooler was installed.
Before, it would be in the burn range to try and hold onto it. After, its "tolerable" hot.
I think machining the manifold to fit plastic insulators on the head face and stud tube halves would make a noteworthy difference.
10-09-2009, 02:30 PM
#21
(10-09-2009, 09:10 AM)ForcedInduction Hot enough to boil 60:40 coolant after ~40 seconds at 18psi.
That definitely shows how hot the IATs are, but I don't think you'd boil the water if your water flow was higher
(10-09-2009, 11:13 AM)ForcedInduction The manifold gets hot from heat conducted from contact with the cylinder head, but there is a significant difference in how hot it feels from before and after the intercooler was installed.
The manifold ALSO gets hot from the post-turbo IATs. With IATs as high as the head temperature (before it was intercooled) it is going to get plenty hot from that as well!
This post was last modified: 10-09-2009, 02:32 PM by Tymbrymi.
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
(10-09-2009, 09:10 AM)ForcedInduction Hot enough to boil 60:40 coolant after ~40 seconds at 18psi.
That definitely shows how hot the IATs are, but I don't think you'd boil the water if your water flow was higher
(10-09-2009, 11:13 AM)ForcedInduction The manifold gets hot from heat conducted from contact with the cylinder head, but there is a significant difference in how hot it feels from before and after the intercooler was installed.
The manifold ALSO gets hot from the post-turbo IATs. With IATs as high as the head temperature (before it was intercooled) it is going to get plenty hot from that as well!
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
10-10-2009, 08:13 PM
#22
I still need to install the water system, but I took it for test drive and holy shit it flows much better, I am hitting 24 pounds of boost! I need to adjust my boost controller. Boost comes on much quicker and stronger.
Tomorrow I am hitting the junk yard to look for a radiator from a 3 cyl. sprint or something along those lines. I am also going to fab a tank about 4" in diamter and 12" tall to act as a reservoir. I plan on using a MB water heater aux pump, but I am not sure it will be enough. I also plan on using an electric fan for the IC radiator.
Here are some pics:
More pics:
more pics
This post was last modified: 10-10-2009, 08:31 PM by Rudolf_Diesel.
Attached Files
Image(s)1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
10-10-2009, 08:13 PM #22Okay, I was up till midnight re-engineering the manifold, it was too big for my liking and I am way happier the way it turned out!
I still need to install the water system, but I took it for test drive and holy shit it flows much better, I am hitting 24 pounds of boost! I need to adjust my boost controller. Boost comes on much quicker and stronger.
Tomorrow I am hitting the junk yard to look for a radiator from a 3 cyl. sprint or something along those lines. I am also going to fab a tank about 4" in diamter and 12" tall to act as a reservoir. I plan on using a MB water heater aux pump, but I am not sure it will be enough. I also plan on using an electric fan for the IC radiator.
Here are some pics:
More pics:
more pics
Attached Files
Image(s)1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
10-10-2009, 08:36 PM
#23
Looks great! Good job.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
10-10-2009, 08:36 PM #23I had reservations of the original. But that rendition is soo much better.
Looks great! Good job.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
10-10-2009, 09:54 PM
#24
What are you going to do for bleeding the top half of the IC core? Bryan has to tip his up to get the air out.
This post was last modified: 10-10-2009, 09:57 PM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
10-10-2009, 09:54 PM
#24
Yes, the revision looks much better. Can't wait to see the radiator setup!
What are you going to do for bleeding the top half of the IC core? Bryan has to tip his up to get the air out.
10-10-2009, 10:18 PM
#25
(10-10-2009, 09:54 PM)ForcedInduction Yes, the revision looks much better. Can't wait to see the radiator setup!
What are you going to do for bleeding the top half of the IC core? Bryan has to tip his up to get the air out.
Thanks for the compliments guys.
I am going to drill and tap a small port on the top of the water side of the IC. Also, add an expansion tank / filler at a point higher than the IC there should have enough room on the fire wall to mount it. This should eliminate the air in the sytem.
This post was last modified: 10-10-2009, 11:54 PM by Rudolf_Diesel.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
10-10-2009, 10:18 PM #25(10-10-2009, 09:54 PM)ForcedInduction Yes, the revision looks much better. Can't wait to see the radiator setup!
What are you going to do for bleeding the top half of the IC core? Bryan has to tip his up to get the air out.
Thanks for the compliments guys.
I am going to drill and tap a small port on the top of the water side of the IC. Also, add an expansion tank / filler at a point higher than the IC there should have enough room on the fire wall to mount it. This should eliminate the air in the sytem.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
10-11-2009, 01:28 AM
#27
This post was last modified: 10-11-2009, 01:28 AM by winmutt.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Much better fit, I had planned on doing your first revision but will certainly be stealing your revision. I love the valve cover too. When you say the boost is coming on faster / stronger, that is a comparison to ?
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
10-11-2009, 08:36 AM
#28
(10-11-2009, 01:28 AM)winmutt Much better fit, I had planned on doing your first revision but will certainly be stealing your revision. I love the valve cover too. When you say the boost is coming on faster / stronger, that is a comparison to ?
You can steel all you like
That what this site is for. The valve cover took me about 6 hours of grinding and sanding before I painted it. If you could see the areas where the injectors are, they are as smooth as a babies ass. So far it has held up to the heat and oil.
As far as the boost I need to observe a little more to get a more analytical view, but because there is not a restriction in the path of the air, the boost comes on sooner - no lag. Think of it as blowing up a baloon for the first time, It is very hard at first but as it expands it is easier to fill. The Saab IC was kind of like the ballon, once the air got moving it was fine. This is in comparsion to the Saab intercooler, which did a decent job, but this is MUCH better.
If I really got on it hard before, maybe I would spike at 22 pounds of boost, now it can easily hit 24 running it the same way - trans in L and flooring it. The motor climbs to 4300 and shifts to second gear, when it reaches 4300 again I shift into S. All the time it is boosting hard and fast.
The only thing I have left to do is get a VNT. I love my turbo, but I omly have 1-2 psi below 1200, I get 5 at around 1600.
This post was last modified: 10-11-2009, 08:40 AM by Rudolf_Diesel.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
10-11-2009, 08:36 AM #28(10-11-2009, 01:28 AM)winmutt Much better fit, I had planned on doing your first revision but will certainly be stealing your revision. I love the valve cover too. When you say the boost is coming on faster / stronger, that is a comparison to ?
You can steel all you like
That what this site is for. The valve cover took me about 6 hours of grinding and sanding before I painted it. If you could see the areas where the injectors are, they are as smooth as a babies ass. So far it has held up to the heat and oil.
As far as the boost I need to observe a little more to get a more analytical view, but because there is not a restriction in the path of the air, the boost comes on sooner - no lag. Think of it as blowing up a baloon for the first time, It is very hard at first but as it expands it is easier to fill. The Saab IC was kind of like the ballon, once the air got moving it was fine. This is in comparsion to the Saab intercooler, which did a decent job, but this is MUCH better.
If I really got on it hard before, maybe I would spike at 22 pounds of boost, now it can easily hit 24 running it the same way - trans in L and flooring it. The motor climbs to 4300 and shifts to second gear, when it reaches 4300 again I shift into S. All the time it is boosting hard and fast.
The only thing I have left to do is get a VNT. I love my turbo, but I omly have 1-2 psi below 1200, I get 5 at around 1600.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
10-11-2009, 09:08 AM
#29
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Ah compared to the SAAB ic. Good. As soon as payday rolls around I am getting mine. You said you were adding xtra supports? You are going to mount them to the engine right?
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
10-11-2009, 11:23 AM
#30
This post was last modified: 10-11-2009, 11:23 AM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
10-11-2009, 11:23 AM
#30
Supports are definitely required. The thin aluminum intake wasn't designed to support weight beyond itself and I have no doubt would eventually break off after a few weeks of vibration.
10-11-2009, 11:47 AM
#31
I think you're going to be very happy with the results from that! (10-11-2009, 08:36 AM)Rudolf_Diesel This is in comparsion to the Saab intercooler, which did a decent job, but this is MUCH better.
Do you happen to remember how it spooled in relation to the stock non-intercooled setup?
EDIT: Thanks for documenting this so well! All those pictures really help out for those of us planning similar mods. Also, please take note of those EGTs for us!
This post was last modified: 10-11-2009, 11:54 AM by Tymbrymi.
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
Awesome work!! Want to sell any duplicates? I think you're going to be very happy with the results from that!
(10-11-2009, 08:36 AM)Rudolf_Diesel This is in comparsion to the Saab intercooler, which did a decent job, but this is MUCH better.
Do you happen to remember how it spooled in relation to the stock non-intercooled setup?
EDIT: Thanks for documenting this so well! All those pictures really help out for those of us planning similar mods. Also, please take note of those EGTs for us!
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
10-11-2009, 02:39 PM
#33
Here are a couple of pics so far:
Starting to cut the tanks off of Saab IC
Tanks removed
Stay tuned!
This post was last modified: 10-11-2009, 02:40 PM by Rudolf_Diesel.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
10-11-2009, 02:39 PM #33I went to Pick-a-Part today and found a radiator from a Geo metro, 1.0L, 3 Cyl. engine. It's a single core and had a fan and reservoir bottle - I ended up not getting the parts. They wanted $100.00 for everything. I am a cheap basterd and so I said for that price I could buy a better one. Hell, for that matter I am going to build my own! I have found a use for my old Saab IC, it is now going to be an aluminum radiator. I started off by cutting off the tanks. I will do the tank mock up with my "magic cardboard".
Here are a couple of pics so far:
Starting to cut the tanks off of Saab IC
Tanks removed
Stay tuned!
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
10-11-2009, 10:28 PM
#34
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
10-11-2009, 10:28 PM #34Here are pics of the completed tanks:
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
10-12-2009, 12:15 AM
#36
(10-12-2009, 12:03 AM)Kiwibacon(10-11-2009, 10:28 PM)Rudolf_Diesel Here are pics of the completed tanks:
Is the welding yours? It's very tidy.
Yes, it is me, thank you, but I am no where near the level I would like to be.
I get better each time I do it - It's all about practice, practice, practice.
The key is a steady hand. The biggest aluminum welding job I had was when I was on the TV show "Monster House" My project took me four days to complete. It was some huge aluminum sheets that I had to weld, outside with the wind blowing my gas away - what a PITA.
My favorite welding is MIG, but I can do em all. I started welding when I was 12 years old and it just came natural.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
10-12-2009, 12:15 AM #36(10-12-2009, 12:03 AM)Kiwibacon(10-11-2009, 10:28 PM)Rudolf_Diesel Here are pics of the completed tanks:
Is the welding yours? It's very tidy.
Yes, it is me, thank you, but I am no where near the level I would like to be.
I get better each time I do it - It's all about practice, practice, practice.
The key is a steady hand. The biggest aluminum welding job I had was when I was on the TV show "Monster House" My project took me four days to complete. It was some huge aluminum sheets that I had to weld, outside with the wind blowing my gas away - what a PITA.
My favorite welding is MIG, but I can do em all. I started welding when I was 12 years old and it just came natural.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
10-12-2009, 12:44 AM
#37
(10-12-2009, 12:15 AM)Rudolf_Diesel Yes, it is me, thank you, but I am no where near the level I would like to be.
I get better each time I do it - It's all about practice, practice, practice.
The key is a steady hand. The biggest aluminum welding job I had was when I was on the TV show "Monster House" My project took me four days to complete. It was some huge aluminum sheets that I had to weld, outside with the wind blowing my gas away - what a PITA.
My favorite welding is MIG, but I can do em all. I started welding when I was 12 years old and it just came natural.
I can acheive good results with stainless and mild steel, I've never tried aluminium. The fact it doesn't change colour before turning into a big blob on the floor speaks clearly about the welding difficulty.
(10-12-2009, 12:15 AM)Rudolf_Diesel Yes, it is me, thank you, but I am no where near the level I would like to be.
I get better each time I do it - It's all about practice, practice, practice.
The key is a steady hand. The biggest aluminum welding job I had was when I was on the TV show "Monster House" My project took me four days to complete. It was some huge aluminum sheets that I had to weld, outside with the wind blowing my gas away - what a PITA.
My favorite welding is MIG, but I can do em all. I started welding when I was 12 years old and it just came natural.
I can acheive good results with stainless and mild steel, I've never tried aluminium. The fact it doesn't change colour before turning into a big blob on the floor speaks clearly about the welding difficulty.
10-12-2009, 12:57 AM
#38
Quote:I can acheive good results with stainless and mild steel, I've never tried aluminium. The fact it doesn't change colour before turning into a big blob on the floor speaks clearly about the welding difficulty.
But it does change...You use AC and you start out the arc on lower power and use the AC to clean the area. You will actually see impurities vaporize. As the area gets hotter you apply more current and you will see the aluminum change color from dull to a nice shiny puddle. Give it some more current and then add your filler rod - piece of cake
The Tungsten makes a difference too. I use pure tungsten, a gas lense, pure Argon and 4043 rod. I have heard a 50/50 mix of Argon & Helium works quite well.
This post was last modified: 10-12-2009, 12:59 AM by Rudolf_Diesel.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
10-12-2009, 12:57 AM #38Quote:I can acheive good results with stainless and mild steel, I've never tried aluminium. The fact it doesn't change colour before turning into a big blob on the floor speaks clearly about the welding difficulty.
But it does change...You use AC and you start out the arc on lower power and use the AC to clean the area. You will actually see impurities vaporize. As the area gets hotter you apply more current and you will see the aluminum change color from dull to a nice shiny puddle. Give it some more current and then add your filler rod - piece of cake
The Tungsten makes a difference too. I use pure tungsten, a gas lense, pure Argon and 4043 rod. I have heard a 50/50 mix of Argon & Helium works quite well.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
10-13-2009, 02:53 AM
#39
'78 300D, OM617.912: 4spd manual, TB03 at 10PSI, 26*BTDC, DV's turned, HVAC, emissions system removed, e-fan, short ram, 3" downpipe to straight exhaust, W126 Bendix brakes, MR2 Spyder seats. 2890lbs
Aluminums still easiest for me. Love stainless, but steel is best reserved for mig. Not that I can't do it, its just much faster with a squirt gun. Rudolf you are my hero, i'll definately be using this design, but may be incorporating a header. ah ah ah
'78 300D, OM617.912: 4spd manual, TB03 at 10PSI, 26*BTDC, DV's turned, HVAC, emissions system removed, e-fan, short ram, 3" downpipe to straight exhaust, W126 Bendix brakes, MR2 Spyder seats. 2890lbs
10-13-2009, 03:25 PM
#42
(10-13-2009, 02:10 PM)winmutt Does the saab ic/radiator leak?
Nope
I tested it with 10 PSI of compressed air and did a soap test. I had one pin hole, but a little bit of welding did the trick. I will install this weekend, but I have been driving around a few days now and it is nice!! It takes off from a stop much quicker and it sounds different too. It also kind of resonates at a certain RPM - I can feel it through the throttle pedal. I think whe it has water it will make a difference, kind of like an empty beer can vs. a full one.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
10-13-2009, 03:25 PM #42(10-13-2009, 02:10 PM)winmutt Does the saab ic/radiator leak?
Nope
I tested it with 10 PSI of compressed air and did a soap test. I had one pin hole, but a little bit of welding did the trick. I will install this weekend, but I have been driving around a few days now and it is nice!! It takes off from a stop much quicker and it sounds different too. It also kind of resonates at a certain RPM - I can feel it through the throttle pedal. I think whe it has water it will make a difference, kind of like an empty beer can vs. a full one.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
10-18-2009, 08:22 PM
#44
Here are some more pics, almost complete:
Reservoir Tank with Mag-lite Cap
Another view of tank
Resevoir tank installed
Radiator installed
Pump installed
Coolant used, the entire system holds about 2 gallons
Intake manifold support, there is a gusset underneath as well.
I should be finished tomorrow.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
10-18-2009, 08:22 PM #44I did not measure the weight, but I would guess the whole thing weighs around 10-15 lbs.
Here are some more pics, almost complete:
Reservoir Tank with Mag-lite Cap
Another view of tank
Resevoir tank installed
Radiator installed
Pump installed
Coolant used, the entire system holds about 2 gallons
Intake manifold support, there is a gusset underneath as well.
I should be finished tomorrow.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
10-19-2009, 09:03 PM
#46
I took for a 20 mile test drive and all seems well. I have lost the resonance at 2200 -2500 adding water did the trick, just as I thought. The EGT's never got above 850, they got up to 1050 with this set up and no water. The manifold would be too hot to touch with out the water, now you can put your hand on it after the 20 mile drive and keep it there as long as you like.
When I test drive, I drive it like I stole it - Same when I test drive a car, that really pisses off the salesman
So I was able to get some good comparisons to berfore added water/coolant - All seems good and I will keep you posted on the progress. I am also waiting for one more piece to complete the installation - a filler neck and cap from a Polaris qaud via ebay $13.00 for the neck and cap + $10.00 shipping. The local dealer wanted $60.00 for the two pieces.
This weekend I am going on the poker run and can have a few others see what they think of the accelleration and overall performance. I am at the point where I cannot really tell how it is doing because I don't have a comparison.
Stay tuned for the next project - VNT turbo on its way!
This post was last modified: 10-19-2009, 09:24 PM by Rudolf_Diesel.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
10-19-2009, 09:03 PM #46Finished up today after work. Had to re-powdercoat filter intake tube, lengthen hose from radiator to overflow tank and mount brackets for air cleaner air dam.
I took for a 20 mile test drive and all seems well. I have lost the resonance at 2200 -2500 adding water did the trick, just as I thought. The EGT's never got above 850, they got up to 1050 with this set up and no water. The manifold would be too hot to touch with out the water, now you can put your hand on it after the 20 mile drive and keep it there as long as you like.
When I test drive, I drive it like I stole it - Same when I test drive a car, that really pisses off the salesman So I was able to get some good comparisons to berfore added water/coolant - All seems good and I will keep you posted on the progress.
I am also waiting for one more piece to complete the installation - a filler neck and cap from a Polaris qaud via ebay $13.00 for the neck and cap + $10.00 shipping. The local dealer wanted $60.00 for the two pieces.
This weekend I am going on the poker run and can have a few others see what they think of the accelleration and overall performance. I am at the point where I cannot really tell how it is doing because I don't have a comparison.
Stay tuned for the next project - VNT turbo on its way!
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
10-20-2009, 12:35 AM
#47
(10-19-2009, 09:03 PM)Rudolf_Diesel I am at the point where I cannot really tell how it is doing because I don't have a comparison.
This is where an accelerometer comes in handy. If you have an iPhone already, you might try getting the dynolicious app so you can do real comparisons of acceleration.
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'84 G-Wagen turbodiesel
'75 240D 4-Speed
(10-19-2009, 09:03 PM)Rudolf_Diesel I am at the point where I cannot really tell how it is doing because I don't have a comparison.
This is where an accelerometer comes in handy. If you have an iPhone already, you might try getting the dynolicious app so you can do real comparisons of acceleration.
-------------
'84 G-Wagen turbodiesel
'75 240D 4-Speed
10-20-2009, 07:19 AM
#48
(10-20-2009, 12:35 AM)Syncro_G(10-19-2009, 09:03 PM)Rudolf_Diesel I am at the point where I cannot really tell how it is doing because I don't have a comparison.
This is where an accelerometer comes in handy. If you have an iPhone already, you might try getting the dynolicious app so you can do real comparisons of acceleration.
I know someone that has one with the app - I will do some testing today and see what I come up with...
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
10-20-2009, 07:19 AM #48(10-20-2009, 12:35 AM)Syncro_G(10-19-2009, 09:03 PM)Rudolf_Diesel I am at the point where I cannot really tell how it is doing because I don't have a comparison.
This is where an accelerometer comes in handy. If you have an iPhone already, you might try getting the dynolicious app so you can do real comparisons of acceleration.
I know someone that has one with the app - I will do some testing today and see what I come up with...
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
10-20-2009, 12:30 PM
#49
This post was last modified: 10-20-2009, 12:31 PM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
10-20-2009, 12:30 PM
#49
Accurate weight is important for that, use a certified truck stop or race scale.
George3soccer
10-20-2009, 03:12 PM #50Talk about wow, love the set up, sure wish I finish school quicker.
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