intercooler plumbing?
intercooler plumbing?
03-03-2015, 05:44 PM
#1
I'm having a hard time finding all the bits I need to plumb the intercooler I added to my 83 300d. When I did the work to fit the intercooler behind the grill I used some garbage material to rough plumb it just to see how everything would work out. Now that I'm done mocking it up and know what bends Im going to need I can't seem to find any suitable material to use in the plumbing.
I was hoping to buy some exuast pipe and bends and fabricate my own rig, but the size of stock kkk is turning out to be hard to find.
For the guys that have added intercoolers, what kinda stuff did you use to plumb it? Any turbo accessory shops online you would suggest?
Also, how exactly did you guys connect the stock turbo to intercooler plumbing? I don't really know what to use to connect the turbo to the plumbing?
Thanks guys!
Hi everyone,
I'm having a hard time finding all the bits I need to plumb the intercooler I added to my 83 300d. When I did the work to fit the intercooler behind the grill I used some garbage material to rough plumb it just to see how everything would work out. Now that I'm done mocking it up and know what bends Im going to need I can't seem to find any suitable material to use in the plumbing.
I was hoping to buy some exuast pipe and bends and fabricate my own rig, but the size of stock kkk is turning out to be hard to find.
For the guys that have added intercoolers, what kinda stuff did you use to plumb it? Any turbo accessory shops online you would suggest?
Also, how exactly did you guys connect the stock turbo to intercooler plumbing? I don't really know what to use to connect the turbo to the plumbing?
Thanks guys!
03-03-2015, 05:49 PM
#2
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
03-03-2015, 05:49 PM #2I used siliconeintakes.com for all my silicone couplers, T-bolt clamps, and aluminum pipe
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
03-03-2015, 07:25 PM
#3
I'm assuming the KKK has the same connection as the garrett. They're machined to connect to the intake with that short aluminum piece with the o-rings. Not for an external hose to be clamped on like almost every other turbo. You could take the compressor cover off and get a bead welded around the outside edge, or grind and sand down the aluminum to make a lip for the hose to hold on to. You'll probably use a 2 or 2 1/4 id hose.
I've used siliconestop.com alot in the past. They probably sell the same stuff as the one above too.
I'm assuming the KKK has the same connection as the garrett. They're machined to connect to the intake with that short aluminum piece with the o-rings. Not for an external hose to be clamped on like almost every other turbo. You could take the compressor cover off and get a bead welded around the outside edge, or grind and sand down the aluminum to make a lip for the hose to hold on to. You'll probably use a 2 or 2 1/4 id hose.
03-03-2015, 11:29 PM
#4
Roughly how much did all the plumbing stuff end up costing you?
Also, how did you guys relocate the two "censors" that are threaded into the stock manifold? Did you drill/tap new holes? If you did drill/tap new holes where would you suggest I drill the holes? What is the "censor" that screws into the top of the stock manifold, I forgot what that one does, is it needed?
Thanks for the help guys!!
Right on guys, I'll definitely be checking those sites out!
Roughly how much did all the plumbing stuff end up costing you?
Also, how did you guys relocate the two "censors" that are threaded into the stock manifold? Did you drill/tap new holes? If you did drill/tap new holes where would you suggest I drill the holes? What is the "censor" that screws into the top of the stock manifold, I forgot what that one does, is it needed?
Thanks for the help guys!!
03-04-2015, 12:31 AM
#6
The silicone hoses will help you with the odd sizes, a couple of places on E-bay have some good prices. I used a calif. federal intake that puts the intake from the turbo up higher when adding a intercooler, clearing the turbo. I also found a Saab intercooler that has the intake and outlet on the same side so you don't have to cross over from the other side.
03-04-2015, 01:27 AM
#7
![[Image: SaabIC25ininlet-outlet.jpg]](http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/SaabIC25ininlet-outlet.jpg)
But where did you route it, and how did you plumb it?
-- '82 300D --
Mylesofsmyles
03-04-2015, 01:27 AM #7This one?
But where did you route it, and how did you plumb it?
-- '82 300D --
something like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-5-63-mm-UNIV...2c84f8f8ab
03-04-2015, 04:13 PM
#10
What I'm really wondering now is how the guys that added w115 intakes transfered over the two "censors" that are threaded into the stock intake? Any suggestions what to do with those, how did you guys do it and where did you end up putting them on your w115 manifolds?
I dug around till I found an intercooler that fit how I wanted it to. Here's a couple pics of my set up.
Now I'm just going to buy all the stuff needed to plumb the intercooler from a local turbo shop. I wanted to fabricate my own because I've got more time then money right now and I like making custom stuff but it looks like more trouble then its worth.
What I'm really wondering now is how the guys that added w115 intakes transfered over the two "censors" that are threaded into the stock intake? Any suggestions what to do with those, how did you guys do it and where did you end up putting them on your w115 manifolds?
I dug around till I found an intercooler that fit how I wanted it to. Here's a couple pics of my set up.
03-04-2015, 04:18 PM
#11
I thought the attatcment "choose file" button would work but it didn't post my images?
Im posting from my phone too, that may be part of the issue, that and operator error!
How do you post pictures, its been years since I posted on a forum and I'm a little rusty?
I thought the attatcment "choose file" button would work but it didn't post my images?
Im posting from my phone too, that may be part of the issue, that and operator error!
03-04-2015, 04:20 PM
#12
(03-04-2015, 03:58 PM)mantahead something like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-5-63-mm-UNIV...2c84f8f8ab
Nice!
(03-04-2015, 03:58 PM)mantahead something like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-5-63-mm-UNIV...2c84f8f8ab
Nice!
03-04-2015, 04:51 PM
#13
(03-04-2015, 04:18 PM)xl.617.lx How do you post pictures, its been years since I posted on a forum and I'm a little rusty?
I thought the attatcment "choose file" button would work but it didn't post my images?
Im posting from my phone too, that may be part of the issue, that and operator error!
You need to host your photos using an online host, I use photo bucket for example.
Then use the image code copied into the text.
(03-04-2015, 04:18 PM)xl.617.lx How do you post pictures, its been years since I posted on a forum and I'm a little rusty?
I thought the attatcment "choose file" button would work but it didn't post my images?
Im posting from my phone too, that may be part of the issue, that and operator error!
You need to host your photos using an online host, I use photo bucket for example.
Then use the image code copied into the text.
![[Image: 2015-02-05%2014.01.28_zps7hocsbro.jpg]](http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll192/xl617lx/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-02-05%2014.01.28_zps7hocsbro.jpg)
![[Image: 2015-02-07%2010.33.08_zpsikj6xfum.jpg]](http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll192/xl617lx/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-02-07%2010.33.08_zpsikj6xfum.jpg)
03-04-2015, 06:25 PM
#16
(03-04-2015, 04:51 PM)Booster(03-04-2015, 04:18 PM)xl.617.lx How do you post pictures, its been years since I posted on a forum and I'm a little rusty?
I thought the attatcment "choose file" button would work but it didn't post my images?
Im posting from my phone too, that may be part of the issue, that and operator error!
You need to host your photos using an online host, I use photo bucket for example.
Then use the image code copied into the text.
Thanks!
(03-04-2015, 04:51 PM)Booster(03-04-2015, 04:18 PM)xl.617.lx How do you post pictures, its been years since I posted on a forum and I'm a little rusty?
I thought the attatcment "choose file" button would work but it didn't post my images?
Im posting from my phone too, that may be part of the issue, that and operator error!
You need to host your photos using an online host, I use photo bucket for example.
Then use the image code copied into the text.
Thanks!
03-05-2015, 12:37 AM
#17
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
03-05-2015, 12:37 AM #17I don't think the things on the intake are really necessary, except maybe the boost line going to the ALDA on the injection pump
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
03-31-2015, 12:16 PM
#18
(03-04-2015, 04:13 PM)xl.617.lx Now I'm just going to buy all the stuff needed to plumb the intercooler from a local turbo shop. I wanted to fabricate my own because I've got more time then money right now and I like making custom stuff but it looks like more trouble then its worth.
What I'm really wondering now is how the guys that added w115 intakes transfered over the two "censors" that are threaded into the stock intake? Any suggestions what to do with those, how did you guys do it and where did you end up putting them on your w115 manifolds?
I dug around till I found an intercooler that fit how I wanted it to. Here's a couple pics of my set up.
The long runner intake from a NA W115.114 had two threaded ports from the factory. The front port "A' was used to connect a banjo bolt terminated hard line to the output of the vacuum pump. The next port "B" had a threaded nipple to connect to the crankcase vapor recovery hose attached to the valve cover.
The turbo OM617 intake manifolds (Non-EGR and EGR) also came with at least two threaded ports from the factory. Two ports were used for the engine overboost protection system (and also the transmission overboost protection and first gear launch on the W116.120). The top port received the intake pressure sender. The rear port had a banjo bolt terminated hard pressure line connected to the switchover valve.
The FSM description of the engine overboost protection system is located here.
I am planning to eventually intercool my 79 W116 300SD (W116.120) with an air to air FMIC (mounted just below the front bumper) and will retain the engine and transmission overboost protection and first gear launch. I plan to use the port at location "A" to install a temperature probe to monitor intake air temperature. The port at location "B" will have a brass plug and the plug will be tapped to install the intake pressure sender. The casting boss at location "C' will be drilled and tapped to accept the banjo bolt terminated hard line that will go to the switchover valve.
![[Image: W115%20Intake%20Manifold_zpsubwxd9he.jpg]](http://s76.photobucket.com/user/Alec300SD/media/W115%20Intake%20Manifold_zpsubwxd9he.jpg.html)
The iron plug at the back of the intake manifold at location "D" is probably thick enough to be tapped. I pulled this image from a STD posting and it apparently shows location "A" and "B" plugged, location "C" tapped for the intake pressures sender and location "D" tapped for the pressure line to the switchover valve.
If you are not concerned about retaining the overboost protection system (not something I would eliminate), but plan to keep the ALDA function, then you can just run a pressure line from the intake manifold to the ALDA. One method, is to simply tap the barb of the large banjo fitting location "A' to accept a smaller banjo bolt fitted hard pressure and route it directly to the ALDA.
An image of that setup is here
![[Image: DSC00709.jpg]](http://s356.photobucket.com/user/MBdieselFreak/media/DSC00709.jpg.html)
Good luck with your project.
My daily driver power improvement project is slowly coming along since I acquired my 78 300SD in January 2014. I plan to increase power to approximately C111 levels while keeping/improving driveabilty. The engine bay of a W116 is very crowded, so I need to relocate the battery to the trunk. This will free up space to relocate a cold air box, install the long runner intake, add intercooler piping, add an oil catch can, etc.... I have already installed EGT probe in the ceramic coated exhaust manifold in this post at peachparts.com. Eventually, the IP will get bigger elements, but many other things must happen first. (Steering box renewal, weatherstripping renewal, sorting out vacuum system and sunroof, install FMIC, boost gauge, EGT gauge, air intake temperature gauge, etc...). I plan to post on both forums as work slowly progresses. My next priority is to eliminate the water leaking into the passenger compartment and the trunk.
BTW if you still need to acquire a long runner intake for your project, send me a PM or email. The one in the photo with the marked locations "A", "B", "C" and "D' is for sale. You have first dibs.
This post was last modified: 03-31-2015, 02:23 PM by Alec300SD.
(03-04-2015, 04:13 PM)xl.617.lx Now I'm just going to buy all the stuff needed to plumb the intercooler from a local turbo shop. I wanted to fabricate my own because I've got more time then money right now and I like making custom stuff but it looks like more trouble then its worth.
What I'm really wondering now is how the guys that added w115 intakes transfered over the two "censors" that are threaded into the stock intake? Any suggestions what to do with those, how did you guys do it and where did you end up putting them on your w115 manifolds?
I dug around till I found an intercooler that fit how I wanted it to. Here's a couple pics of my set up.
The long runner intake from a NA W115.114 had two threaded ports from the factory. The front port "A' was used to connect a banjo bolt terminated hard line to the output of the vacuum pump. The next port "B" had a threaded nipple to connect to the crankcase vapor recovery hose attached to the valve cover.
The turbo OM617 intake manifolds (Non-EGR and EGR) also came with at least two threaded ports from the factory. Two ports were used for the engine overboost protection system (and also the transmission overboost protection and first gear launch on the W116.120). The top port received the intake pressure sender. The rear port had a banjo bolt terminated hard pressure line connected to the switchover valve.
The FSM description of the engine overboost protection system is located here.
I am planning to eventually intercool my 79 W116 300SD (W116.120) with an air to air FMIC (mounted just below the front bumper) and will retain the engine and transmission overboost protection and first gear launch. I plan to use the port at location "A" to install a temperature probe to monitor intake air temperature. The port at location "B" will have a brass plug and the plug will be tapped to install the intake pressure sender. The casting boss at location "C' will be drilled and tapped to accept the banjo bolt terminated hard line that will go to the switchover valve.
The iron plug at the back of the intake manifold at location "D" is probably thick enough to be tapped. I pulled this image from a STD posting and it apparently shows location "A" and "B" plugged, location "C" tapped for the intake pressures sender and location "D" tapped for the pressure line to the switchover valve.
If you are not concerned about retaining the overboost protection system (not something I would eliminate), but plan to keep the ALDA function, then you can just run a pressure line from the intake manifold to the ALDA. One method, is to simply tap the barb of the large banjo fitting location "A' to accept a smaller banjo bolt fitted hard pressure and route it directly to the ALDA.
An image of that setup is here
Good luck with your project.
My daily driver power improvement project is slowly coming along since I acquired my 78 300SD in January 2014. I plan to increase power to approximately C111 levels while keeping/improving driveabilty. The engine bay of a W116 is very crowded, so I need to relocate the battery to the trunk. This will free up space to relocate a cold air box, install the long runner intake, add intercooler piping, add an oil catch can, etc.... I have already installed EGT probe in the ceramic coated exhaust manifold in this post at peachparts.com. Eventually, the IP will get bigger elements, but many other things must happen first. (Steering box renewal, weatherstripping renewal, sorting out vacuum system and sunroof, install FMIC, boost gauge, EGT gauge, air intake temperature gauge, etc...). I plan to post on both forums as work slowly progresses. My next priority is to eliminate the water leaking into the passenger compartment and the trunk.
BTW if you still need to acquire a long runner intake for your project, send me a PM or email. The one in the photo with the marked locations "A", "B", "C" and "D' is for sale. You have first dibs.
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