cheap larger exhaust on my wagon. help me build/design it...
cheap larger exhaust on my wagon. help me build/design it...
How can I get a cheap but effective downpipe? I have a stock turbo. How about the rest of the exhaust? thx in advance.
2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
Drop your hints/suggestions and tips to help me enlarge my stock exhaust. I'm not wealthy so keep that in mind. thx.
How can I get a cheap but effective downpipe? I have a stock turbo. How about the rest of the exhaust? thx in advance.
2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-...93762.html
Many stores will allow you to stack a coupon on top of a sale price. You can easily get one for 250 or less out the door. If you're not addicted to using it by the time you're finished, sell it on CL.
Cut mild steel bends on radius, make sure they fit up perfectly (easy task w/band saw) and tack them together with the welder. Take it to someone with a TIG to finish. Paint with exhaust paint if you're in a rust area.
raysorenson
04-11-2015, 06:57 PM #2Get a 110v wire welder. Borrow it, get a used one, get one from wal-mart, whatever. Then get a band saw.
http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-...93762.html
Many stores will allow you to stack a coupon on top of a sale price. You can easily get one for 250 or less out the door. If you're not addicted to using it by the time you're finished, sell it on CL.
Cut mild steel bends on radius, make sure they fit up perfectly (easy task w/band saw) and tack them together with the welder. Take it to someone with a TIG to finish. Paint with exhaust paint if you're in a rust area.
ak47is1337
04-12-2015, 12:14 PM #4serious question: where do you guys buy 3-4 inch exhaust metal cheaply?
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Honestly, it would probably be cheaper to go to your local metal provider and buy it. But I won't be aluminumized or anything fancy
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
ak47is1337
04-12-2015, 11:23 PM #7Holy crap I searched for 3.5 inch/4.0 inch under the exhaust section at Summit Racing and the cheapest selections started at $250 for some piping
Stainless will be expensive, mild steel not so much.
No exhaust manufacturers nearby? I'd look for an exhaust shop localy and try to pick up some exhaust pipe there.
DiseaselWeasel
04-13-2015, 01:28 AM #8I don't know where the difference is to regular steel, but exhaust steel seems to be extremely valuable
Stainless will be expensive, mild steel not so much.
No exhaust manufacturers nearby? I'd look for an exhaust shop localy and try to pick up some exhaust pipe there.
(04-12-2015, 11:23 PM)ak47is1337 Holy crap I searched for 3.5 inch/4.0 inch under the exhaust section at Summit Racing and the cheapest selections started at $250 for some piping
Buy the straight sections from your local steel shop for almost nothing, fancy madrel bent stuff will cost quite a bit, if you can cut angles ect you can do it that way. Just won't be as smooth as it could
(04-12-2015, 11:23 PM)ak47is1337 Holy crap I searched for 3.5 inch/4.0 inch under the exhaust section at Summit Racing and the cheapest selections started at $250 for some piping
Buy the straight sections from your local steel shop for almost nothing, fancy madrel bent stuff will cost quite a bit, if you can cut angles ect you can do it that way. Just won't be as smooth as it could
(04-13-2015, 01:28 AM)DiseaselWeasel I don't know where the difference is to regular steel, but exhaust steel seems to be extremely valuable
Stainless will be expensive, mild steel not so much.
No exhaust manufacturers nearby? I'd look for an exhaust shop localy and try to pick up some exhaust pipe there.
It's just Internet bullsh*t tax
(04-13-2015, 01:28 AM)DiseaselWeasel I don't know where the difference is to regular steel, but exhaust steel seems to be extremely valuable
Stainless will be expensive, mild steel not so much.
No exhaust manufacturers nearby? I'd look for an exhaust shop localy and try to pick up some exhaust pipe there.
It's just Internet bullsh*t tax
in my country we buy it at steel suply stores price is by kg.
or u can go in junk yard and buy 3or 4 exaust system from trucs and adapt it to your needs.
regards.
FD,
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314 stainless is not much expensive than 9XX type steel, wich u should select for your exaust.
in my country we buy it at steel suply stores price is by kg.
or u can go in junk yard and buy 3or 4 exaust system from trucs and adapt it to your needs.
regards.
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
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93´ W124 300TDT -> OM606.962 / RS 203 Dieselmeken 7,5mm 210cc / KKK K14 / Stock Transmission / 2,65 ASD
89´ 190D 2.5 Turbo -> OM605.960 / Dieselmeken 7,5mm 180cc / Holset HX30 Super / 716. 654 6-Speed / 2,87 Rear Axle
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93´ W124 300TDT -> OM606.962 / RS 203 Dieselmeken 7,5mm 210cc / KKK K14 / Stock Transmission / 2,65 ASD
89´ 190D 2.5 Turbo -> OM605.960 / Dieselmeken 7,5mm 180cc / Holset HX30 Super / 716. 654 6-Speed / 2,87 Rear Axle
(04-12-2015, 11:23 PM)ak47is1337 Holy crap I searched for 3.5 inch/4.0 inch under the exhaust section at Summit Racing and the cheapest selections started at $250 for some piping
wut? You're doing it wrong. They have 3.5 mild bends in the $40 range. A whole 3.5" mild steel exhaust build might end up using $250 in tubing and bends but that's not what I call expensive. Mandrel bent exhaust systems have never been "cheap" when compared to compression bend garbage.
raysorenson
04-13-2015, 08:50 AM #13(04-12-2015, 11:23 PM)ak47is1337 Holy crap I searched for 3.5 inch/4.0 inch under the exhaust section at Summit Racing and the cheapest selections started at $250 for some piping
wut? You're doing it wrong. They have 3.5 mild bends in the $40 range. A whole 3.5" mild steel exhaust build might end up using $250 in tubing and bends but that's not what I call expensive. Mandrel bent exhaust systems have never been "cheap" when compared to compression bend garbage.
Super thanks for the tips and ideas- keep them coming!
2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
Do I need to go bigger than 3 inch? BTW I don't think I'll be buying a band saw and a welder for a one time job. That'll be close to $500 - more than what I'd want to spend for one time use tools. Just sayin'.
Super thanks for the tips and ideas- keep them coming!
2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
Whole thing, stainless that lasts forever, $400?
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
04-13-2015, 09:57 AM #15Nah you don't need bigger than 3 inch. I can't imagine an exhaust shop would be horribly expensive if you purchased the necessary bends and had them weld/clamp it together with hangers and what not.
Whole thing, stainless that lasts forever, $400?
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
Butt welding stainless will need an argon back purge of the pipe or it won't last all that long. Mild is easier and tougher but has the rust thing.
Good fit of the pipes is important for good butt welds. With a bandsaw, my fitup is good enough for fusion welds (no filler metal) and I'm able to get my cuts on-radius the first try.
A nice cut and weld exhaust requires commitment to quality and detail that is labor and talent intensive.
raysorenson
04-13-2015, 10:16 AM #16Lol, my bandsaw runs almost continuously. Best. tool. ever.
Butt welding stainless will need an argon back purge of the pipe or it won't last all that long. Mild is easier and tougher but has the rust thing.
Good fit of the pipes is important for good butt welds. With a bandsaw, my fitup is good enough for fusion welds (no filler metal) and I'm able to get my cuts on-radius the first try.
A nice cut and weld exhaust requires commitment to quality and detail that is labor and talent intensive.
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