Om617 swapped toyota boiling coolant. PLEASE HELP
Om617 swapped toyota boiling coolant. PLEASE HELP
617yotacrawler
04-22-2015, 09:11 AM #1Hey all I have a om617 swap in my toyota crawler. First I wanna say that you all have helped me with many questions i have asked and I constantly search for answers here. but I have ran into a problem I can not find the answer too. I swapped a om617 into my 4runner back in August and it has been running fantasticly, and it was easily 100*f with no over heating issues. I was wheeling the other day and it got a little warm but not dangerous. I parked the truck at the top of the hill and went for a hike. When I returned I noticed that almost all the coolant boiled out of the coolant resivor. I filled it back up with water and the system then returned home (80 miles) with no issues. Then 5 days later (yesterday) I was driving home from work and I pulled into my drive way and the coolant was literally boiling out of the resivor. I went and squeezed both upper and lower hoses and there was no coolant in them just air. But yet my resivor is completely full. I let it sit 5 min and started it back up and all the coolant rushed back into the system. I really need help on this because I'm afraid to take it wheeling with my family and getting stranded. Thank you
Quote:Hey all I have a om617 swap in my toyota crawler. First I wanna say that you all have helped me with many questions i have asked and I constantly search for answers here.
but I have ran into a problem I can not find the answer too. I swapped a om617 into my 4runner back in August and it has been running fantasticly, and it was easily 100*f with no over heating issues.
I was wheeling the other day and it got a little warm but not dangerous. I parked the truck at the top of the hill and went for a hike. When I returned I noticed that almost all the coolant boiled out of the coolant resivor. I filled it back up with water and the system then returned home (80 miles) with no issues. Then 5 days later (yesterday) I was driving home from work and I pulled into my drive way and the coolant was literally boiling out of the resivor.
I went and squeezed both upper and lower hoses and there was no coolant in them just air. But yet my resivor is completely full. I let it sit 5 min and started it back up and all the coolant rushed back into the system. I really need help on this because I'm afraid to take it wheeling with my family and getting stranded. Thank you
DiseaselWeasel
04-22-2015, 11:59 AM #3Stra+A & Strg+V & some cleaning; for your reading pleasures:
Quote:Hey all I have a om617 swap in my toyota crawler. First I wanna say that you all have helped me with many questions i have asked and I constantly search for answers here.
but I have ran into a problem I can not find the answer too. I swapped a om617 into my 4runner back in August and it has been running fantasticly, and it was easily 100*f with no over heating issues.
I was wheeling the other day and it got a little warm but not dangerous. I parked the truck at the top of the hill and went for a hike. When I returned I noticed that almost all the coolant boiled out of the coolant resivor. I filled it back up with water and the system then returned home (80 miles) with no issues. Then 5 days later (yesterday) I was driving home from work and I pulled into my drive way and the coolant was literally boiling out of the resivor.
I went and squeezed both upper and lower hoses and there was no coolant in them just air. But yet my resivor is completely full. I let it sit 5 min and started it back up and all the coolant rushed back into the system. I really need help on this because I'm afraid to take it wheeling with my family and getting stranded. Thank you
(04-22-2015, 11:59 AM)DiseaselWeasel Stra+A & Strg+V & some cleaning; for your reading pleasures:
Quote:Hey all I have a om617 swap in my toyota crawler. First I wanna say that you all have helped me with many
questions i have asked and I constantly search for answers here.
but I have ran into a problem I can not find the answer too. I swapped a om617 into my 4runner back in August
and it has been running fantasticly, and it was easily 100*f with no over heating issues.
I was wheeling the other day and it got a little warm but not dangerous. I parked the truck at the top of the hill
and went for a hike. When I returned I noticed that almost all the coolant boiled out of the coolant resivor. I filled
it back up with water and the system then returned home (80 miles) with no issues. Then 5 days later (yesterday)
I was driving home from work and I pulled into my drive way and the coolant was literally boiling out of the resivor.
I went and squeezed both upper and lower hoses and there was no coolant in them just air. But yet my resivor is
completely full. I let it sit 5 min and started it back up and all the coolant rushed back into the system. I really need
help on this because I'm afraid to take it wheeling with my family and getting stranded. Thank you
From the posting, I am assuming that you have a N/A engine (not turbo). Either way, my first assumption
would be a plugged radiator. But there really isn't a short cut to testing the cooling system components,
one by one. Fan clutch (engages when hot), water pump (clearance between impeller and housing), thermostat
(opens all the way a the correct temp), radiator (flows), radiator cap (holds pressure). Might want to test for
combustion gasses in the coolant (blown headgasket), but that doesn't seem likely in this scenario.
Admins: My posting also ran really wide and had to be manually edited to stay on the screen. What changed?
(04-22-2015, 11:59 AM)DiseaselWeasel Stra+A & Strg+V & some cleaning; for your reading pleasures:
Quote:Hey all I have a om617 swap in my toyota crawler. First I wanna say that you all have helped me with many
questions i have asked and I constantly search for answers here.
but I have ran into a problem I can not find the answer too. I swapped a om617 into my 4runner back in August
and it has been running fantasticly, and it was easily 100*f with no over heating issues.
I was wheeling the other day and it got a little warm but not dangerous. I parked the truck at the top of the hill
and went for a hike. When I returned I noticed that almost all the coolant boiled out of the coolant resivor. I filled
it back up with water and the system then returned home (80 miles) with no issues. Then 5 days later (yesterday)
I was driving home from work and I pulled into my drive way and the coolant was literally boiling out of the resivor.
I went and squeezed both upper and lower hoses and there was no coolant in them just air. But yet my resivor is
completely full. I let it sit 5 min and started it back up and all the coolant rushed back into the system. I really need
help on this because I'm afraid to take it wheeling with my family and getting stranded. Thank you
From the posting, I am assuming that you have a N/A engine (not turbo). Either way, my first assumption
would be a plugged radiator. But there really isn't a short cut to testing the cooling system components,
one by one. Fan clutch (engages when hot), water pump (clearance between impeller and housing), thermostat
(opens all the way a the correct temp), radiator (flows), radiator cap (holds pressure). Might want to test for
combustion gasses in the coolant (blown headgasket), but that doesn't seem likely in this scenario.
Admins: My posting also ran really wide and had to be manually edited to stay on the screen. What changed?
raysorenson
04-22-2015, 04:31 PM #5One thing about coolant temp sensors is that if the coolant is displaced by gas, the engine can seriously overheat without being indicated by the gauge.
617yotacrawler
04-23-2015, 06:51 PM #7Ok I just got the notifications for your responses. thank you very much. It is a 617.952 turbo engine. radiator is new, 2 10" electric fans coming on at 125, new pressure cap 1000 miles ago, water pump has no play and not leaking. And I burp it for at least 45 min on a hill. I will try a coolant pressure test and attempt to see if I hear anything in crank case. a little more info on it is alda maxed, rack limiter delete, tq capsule turned 1 / 4 turn course idle 1/4 turn Timing 28* 25-27 lbs boost on stock kkk turbo .
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
I would definitely try the thermostat, but I also read in someone's build thread that the little pipe connecting the head and the block was plugged up and caused the engine to overheat. Don't ask me why though
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
617yotacrawler
04-23-2015, 11:33 PM #10I will snag a thermoStat tomorrow and try that. And will also pull that line and see if it needs cleaned. I also just read you have a hx30. How does it respond if you don't mine me asking? I'm looking for different turbo ideas that will spool within reason for the off roading but also help out with my egt and use a air to air intercooler.
(04-23-2015, 11:33 PM)617yotacrawler I will snag a thermoStat tomorrow and try that. And will also pull that line and see if it needs cleaned. I also just read you have a hx30. How does it respond if you don't mine me asking? I'm looking for different turbo ideas that will spool within reason for the off roading but also help out with my egt and use a air to air intercooler.
To be honest, it only spools slightly slower than stock. Around 2200rpm probably. My egts hover at 1350F wide open, 18psi of boost, on a long pull up a steep hill. But I'm not sure how it would work off roading. I guess it depends of your in the dunes, the mud, or crawling. It WILL NOT spool faster than stock if that's what your looking for.
Oh, and it sounds cool as hell
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(04-23-2015, 11:33 PM)617yotacrawler I will snag a thermoStat tomorrow and try that. And will also pull that line and see if it needs cleaned. I also just read you have a hx30. How does it respond if you don't mine me asking? I'm looking for different turbo ideas that will spool within reason for the off roading but also help out with my egt and use a air to air intercooler.
To be honest, it only spools slightly slower than stock. Around 2200rpm probably. My egts hover at 1350F wide open, 18psi of boost, on a long pull up a steep hill. But I'm not sure how it would work off roading. I guess it depends of your in the dunes, the mud, or crawling. It WILL NOT spool faster than stock if that's what your looking for.
Oh, and it sounds cool as hell
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-28-2015, 03:09 PM #12Maybe partly related to your overheating, I don't think you really need to run 25-27psi boost unless your pump is really built up with bigger elements and such, I'd think the stuff you've done would be fine around 15-18 psi. Too much boost just makes heat, and especially if you're not running an intercooler then the extra heat has to go out through the cooling system. Also, are you running an exhaust temp gauge?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
617yotacrawler
04-29-2015, 12:04 AM #13Yes I have egt guage, and even at full boost if 25 lbs ish in have a light haze of fuel still coming out of my exhaust so I'm set about right.
if your radiator, is not clogged, u may start ordering a head gasket at your local parts dealer....
sometimes the engines have the gaskest in there for 20 years and then u buy them and after 10 years u make a tune out of it, and then 30years went by and the gasket is blown, slightly blown. its so slight that u can´t see any oil fumes in the expansion thank , just a small increase in pressure and temperature.
i had a similar situation, dealt with radiator , thermostat , cleaning of channels , and then one day got to open the engine and there it was , a very small leak at the cylinder 3 and 4.
after it was repaired never passed the 83ºC .
regards.
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
its easy, overheating is is a easy thing.
if your radiator, is not clogged, u may start ordering a head gasket at your local parts dealer....
sometimes the engines have the gaskest in there for 20 years and then u buy them and after 10 years u make a tune out of it, and then 30years went by and the gasket is blown, slightly blown. its so slight that u can´t see any oil fumes in the expansion thank , just a small increase in pressure and temperature.
i had a similar situation, dealt with radiator , thermostat , cleaning of channels , and then one day got to open the engine and there it was , a very small leak at the cylinder 3 and 4.
after it was repaired never passed the 83ºC .
regards.
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
-Yes I have one 3/16" hole drilled in my thermostat
-Yes my fuel is turned up well beyond yours.
-16lbs boost MAX
-NO cooling fans at all
-runs at 195 degrees all day (needle just covering top of "80")
-IP timing max advanced without re clocking the pump
-No ALDA
-No rack limiter
I am sorry to say it but sounds like a head gasket. Or an air bubble in the water pump (water not circulating)
Drilling a hole in the thermostat will hell a ton with the air bubble even if the bleed pipe between the block and head is clogged with rust. But thats no guarantee. I have cut my lower rad hose a few times and always when refilling coolant I pull the upper hose off the radiator and fill the hose with water so the pump doesnt have air in it. If I dont, no water will circulate.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
05-07-2015, 02:35 AM #16Just throwing things out here for you to think about...
-Yes I have one 3/16" hole drilled in my thermostat
-Yes my fuel is turned up well beyond yours.
-16lbs boost MAX
-NO cooling fans at all
-runs at 195 degrees all day (needle just covering top of "80")
-IP timing max advanced without re clocking the pump
-No ALDA
-No rack limiter
I am sorry to say it but sounds like a head gasket. Or an air bubble in the water pump (water not circulating)
Drilling a hole in the thermostat will hell a ton with the air bubble even if the bleed pipe between the block and head is clogged with rust. But thats no guarantee. I have cut my lower rad hose a few times and always when refilling coolant I pull the upper hose off the radiator and fill the hose with water so the pump doesnt have air in it. If I dont, no water will circulate.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
After reading and explaining to a friend what was going on he mentioned the wastegate diphram might be bad causing thsee issues, sure enough he was right.
The guage worked fine going up n down even with a bad diphram.
Might take a mity-vac n test it.
X amount of years n heat takes its toll on rubber
I too am going through heat related issues, after doing alot of things requiring more $$$ than I'd like to mention.
After reading and explaining to a friend what was going on he mentioned the wastegate diphram might be bad causing thsee issues, sure enough he was right.
The guage worked fine going up n down even with a bad diphram.
Might take a mity-vac n test it.
X amount of years n heat takes its toll on rubber
Edit: I should note that I added an intercooler after all my testing was done, and decided to keep it at 15psi. It started getting hot at 14psi, but wasn't unsafe. The intercooler just helps.
Definitely getting heat from your turbo. 15psi MAX. Anything over 20psi is ridiculous and you risk catastrophic failure of internal components. I've tested at every pressure up to 17 and found ZERO benefits over 15psi, only more heat.
Edit: I should note that I added an intercooler after all my testing was done, and decided to keep it at 15psi. It started getting hot at 14psi, but wasn't unsafe. The intercooler just helps.
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