Shut off Diesel on gasser chassis.
Shut off Diesel on gasser chassis.
If you guys remember I have done a 603 swap into a w201. Everything is going very smoothly, taking lots of time (being a ME major takes allot of my time.) So I got the motor to run, idle's very low for now until I raise that, ditched the EDS system, Got the glow plugs to work, retrofitted most of it.
So finally my next task is what is a way to get this motor to kill itself once I turn off the car with the key. Is there any way I can link the ignition switch to the IP to get it to kill the motor.
Or is my only option available is plumb up a line to the kill lever to kill the motor manually from the cabin.
Let me know what you guys think..
George3soccer
09-28-2010, 02:15 PM #1Ok guys dont even know how to approach this.
If you guys remember I have done a 603 swap into a w201. Everything is going very smoothly, taking lots of time (being a ME major takes allot of my time.) So I got the motor to run, idle's very low for now until I raise that, ditched the EDS system, Got the glow plugs to work, retrofitted most of it.
So finally my next task is what is a way to get this motor to kill itself once I turn off the car with the key. Is there any way I can link the ignition switch to the IP to get it to kill the motor.
Or is my only option available is plumb up a line to the kill lever to kill the motor manually from the cabin.
Let me know what you guys think..
(09-28-2010, 02:42 PM)tomnik can you use the ignition key assembly from a diesel where a vac switch applies vac to the IP?
Or you install an electric vac valve operated with the key that puts vac to the shut off of the IP.
Tom
Sounds like a good idea on the electric vacuum switch...
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
09-28-2010, 02:48 PM #3(09-28-2010, 02:42 PM)tomnik can you use the ignition key assembly from a diesel where a vac switch applies vac to the IP?
Or you install an electric vac valve operated with the key that puts vac to the shut off of the IP.
Tom
Sounds like a good idea on the electric vacuum switch...
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
George3soccer
09-28-2010, 03:58 PM #4Thank you tomnik, do you know how much pressure is needed to shut the IP down.
This one should work:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Standard-...ccessories
Or this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EGR-Vacuu...ccessories
You can also get one off a junker so you can get the weatherpack connector too.
If you decide to go with the GM valve, get with me and I'll tell you how to configure it for your application.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
This is very easy. Get yourself an EGR solenoid and wire it to the ignition. Connect the lines so that when the solenoid is energised, no vacuum gets to the shut off on the pump. There's no pressure involved, only vacuum.
This one should work:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Standard-...ccessories
Or this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EGR-Vacuu...ccessories
You can also get one off a junker so you can get the weatherpack connector too.
If you decide to go with the GM valve, get with me and I'll tell you how to configure it for your application.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
I was looking at more high advance electric vacuum switches like these.
http://www.anver.com/document/vacuum%20c...-ncno!.htm
I emailed them forthe quote, but I was thinking to hard I totally forgot about the egr stuff. Will be playing a order for it in a few days.
If not I will still search for a w201 vacuum ignition switch.
George3soccer
09-28-2010, 10:20 PM #7Thank you guys for the help. I totally forgot about the egr selonoids.
I was looking at more high advance electric vacuum switches like these.
http://www.anver.com/document/vacuum%20c...-ncno!.htm
I emailed them forthe quote, but I was thinking to hard I totally forgot about the egr stuff. Will be playing a order for it in a few days.
If not I will still search for a w201 vacuum ignition switch.
I need some information about the factory w201 diesel vacuum valve switch, I have found one on autohausaz is this what I am looking for.
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product...um%20Valve
Vacuum valve at steering lock.
My next question is will the stock 190E 2.3 steering tumber work with this diesel valve. And next I presume one of the lines goes to the back of the IP, and where am i pulling this vacuum from?
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
George3soccer
08-03-2012, 01:44 PM #8hey guys i am resurrecting this post for a follow up.
I need some information about the factory w201 diesel vacuum valve switch, I have found one on autohausaz is this what I am looking for.
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product...um%20Valve
Vacuum valve at steering lock.
My next question is will the stock 190E 2.3 steering tumber work with this diesel valve. And next I presume one of the lines goes to the back of the IP, and where am i pulling this vacuum from?
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
![[Image: 0004600284.jpg]](http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/0004600284.jpg)
![[Image: 2025450104.jpg]](http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/2025450104.jpg)
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
George3soccer
08-03-2012, 04:17 PM #10ok so just to clarify things up this vacuum valve going on the back of the ignition switch. If I look at the picture of the switch it looks like there could have been holes drilled in for the valve. Looks like I only need the valve.
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
![[Image: ignition21.JPG]](http://dieselgiant.com/ignition21.JPG)
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
George3soccer
08-10-2012, 07:06 AM #12Ok guys here's what's going on. I went out to the stealership an bought the vacuum valve. Found the the spot for it on the tumbler. It was predrilled and had its appropriate taps. Installed the valve went to the IP pulled a line from the Vacuum shut off actuator. And then pulled a line from the booster. It didn't shut the motor. But pulled the stop lever close to shutting it off. Do you think the culprit would be the shut off actuator on top of the pump.
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
(08-10-2012, 07:06 AM)George3soccer Ok guys here's what's going on. I went out to the stealership an bought the vacuum valve. Found the the spot for it on the tumbler. It was predrilled and had its appropriate taps. Installed the valve went to the IP pulled a line from the Vacuum shut off actuator. And then pulled a line from the booster. It didn't shut the motor. But pulled the stop lever close to shutting it off. Do you think the culprit would be the shut off actuator on top of the pump.
I have a 190e that I converted and have yet to build in a key shutoff ability. I may most likely get a switch assembly from a 190d, but if it is possible to just add the valve, that would be great as I have one.
I did remove the valve from my 123 switch and saw that there is a plastic cam in the lock assembly that works the switch, I wonder if the gas switch has the cam in it? Also I found that the switch flows as it sits on a bench, it stops the flow when the valve button is pushed.
Note on the valve and the vacuum hoses;
I also found that my 300d had low vacuum some time ago, the cause was the shutoff valve lines were attached to the wrong barbs. If the vac side is on one of the barbs, (don't remember which one) the vacuum would only get to 15 inches, but with it on the other barb 21 inches.
(08-10-2012, 07:06 AM)George3soccer Ok guys here's what's going on. I went out to the stealership an bought the vacuum valve. Found the the spot for it on the tumbler. It was predrilled and had its appropriate taps. Installed the valve went to the IP pulled a line from the Vacuum shut off actuator. And then pulled a line from the booster. It didn't shut the motor. But pulled the stop lever close to shutting it off. Do you think the culprit would be the shut off actuator on top of the pump.
I have a 190e that I converted and have yet to build in a key shutoff ability. I may most likely get a switch assembly from a 190d, but if it is possible to just add the valve, that would be great as I have one.
I did remove the valve from my 123 switch and saw that there is a plastic cam in the lock assembly that works the switch, I wonder if the gas switch has the cam in it? Also I found that the switch flows as it sits on a bench, it stops the flow when the valve button is pushed.
Note on the valve and the vacuum hoses;
I also found that my 300d had low vacuum some time ago, the cause was the shutoff valve lines were attached to the wrong barbs. If the vac side is on one of the barbs, (don't remember which one) the vacuum would only get to 15 inches, but with it on the other barb 21 inches.
(08-10-2012, 12:52 PM)OM616(08-10-2012, 07:06 AM)George3soccer Ok guys here's what's going on. I went out to the stealership an bought the vacuum valve. Found the the spot for it on the tumbler. It was predrilled and had its appropriate taps. Installed the valve went to the IP pulled a line from the Vacuum shut off actuator. And then pulled a line from the booster. It didn't shut the motor. But pulled the stop lever close to shutting it off. Do you think the culprit would be the shut off actuator on top of the pump.
I have a 190e that I converted and have yet to build in a key shutoff ability. I may most likely get a switch assembly from a 190d, but if it is possible to just add the valve, that would be great as I have one.
I did remove the valve from my 123 switch and saw that there is a plastic cam in the lock assembly that works the switch, I wonder if the gas switch has the cam in it? Also I found that the switch flows as it sits on a bench, it stops the flow when the valve button is pushed.
Note on the valve and the vacuum hoses;
I also found that my 300d had low vacuum some time ago, the cause was the shutoff valve lines were attached to the wrong barbs. If the vac side is on one of the barbs, (don't remember which one) the vacuum would only get to 15 inches, but with it on the other barb 21 inches.
I hope you guys are able to sort this out soon as I am also at the same point with my 190E to D conversion. I am looking at the simplest solution to be able to shut the engine down with turning off the ignition. Leaning heavily towards the switch over vac. solonoid valve. How difficult is it removing the ignition switch? Thanks
(08-10-2012, 12:52 PM)OM616(08-10-2012, 07:06 AM)George3soccer Ok guys here's what's going on. I went out to the stealership an bought the vacuum valve. Found the the spot for it on the tumbler. It was predrilled and had its appropriate taps. Installed the valve went to the IP pulled a line from the Vacuum shut off actuator. And then pulled a line from the booster. It didn't shut the motor. But pulled the stop lever close to shutting it off. Do you think the culprit would be the shut off actuator on top of the pump.
I have a 190e that I converted and have yet to build in a key shutoff ability. I may most likely get a switch assembly from a 190d, but if it is possible to just add the valve, that would be great as I have one.
I did remove the valve from my 123 switch and saw that there is a plastic cam in the lock assembly that works the switch, I wonder if the gas switch has the cam in it? Also I found that the switch flows as it sits on a bench, it stops the flow when the valve button is pushed.
Note on the valve and the vacuum hoses;
I also found that my 300d had low vacuum some time ago, the cause was the shutoff valve lines were attached to the wrong barbs. If the vac side is on one of the barbs, (don't remember which one) the vacuum would only get to 15 inches, but with it on the other barb 21 inches.
With regards to the vacuum shutoff valve not working correctly, I have a feeling you have hooked up the shutoff switch backwards. Just pull on the little lever at the actuator, if it shuts off then you have low vacuum to the actuator, this can be caused by a leak, or low vacuum output from the pump. You can check to see if the shutoff actuator is leaking with a vacuum tester, or just hooking some hose up to and and sucking on the end of the hose, if it holds vacuum and shuts the motor off, you're good, if you have a leak or it won't shut off with vacuum applied, it's no good.
With regards to getting the ignition cylinder out. It can be a pain but really isn't that complicated. You will need to gain access to it by removing whatever panels are in your way. When it is clear, you will have to disconnect whatever is attached to it, like hoses or wires. Finally, put the key in it and turn it to the first accessory position (enough to unlock the steering wheel). You should be able to see (with a mirror maybe?) a small silver button on the back of the ignition switch. This needs to be pressed in with a tip of a screwdriver or the like, then the whole ignition will slide out.
Good luck!
Yes, your ignition contains the cam even if it doesn't have the switch installed in it yet. The switch only works one way, that is to say, you need to hook up the vacuum supply barb and shutoff actuator barb correctly. Hook them up backwards and you will have a big vacuum leak, hook them up correct and no problems. You can check by just seeing which one of the two barbs will hold vacuum with the ignition in the the 'on' position. This is the barb you want to connect the vacuum supply to.
With regards to the vacuum shutoff valve not working correctly, I have a feeling you have hooked up the shutoff switch backwards. Just pull on the little lever at the actuator, if it shuts off then you have low vacuum to the actuator, this can be caused by a leak, or low vacuum output from the pump. You can check to see if the shutoff actuator is leaking with a vacuum tester, or just hooking some hose up to and and sucking on the end of the hose, if it holds vacuum and shuts the motor off, you're good, if you have a leak or it won't shut off with vacuum applied, it's no good.
With regards to getting the ignition cylinder out. It can be a pain but really isn't that complicated. You will need to gain access to it by removing whatever panels are in your way. When it is clear, you will have to disconnect whatever is attached to it, like hoses or wires. Finally, put the key in it and turn it to the first accessory position (enough to unlock the steering wheel). You should be able to see (with a mirror maybe?) a small silver button on the back of the ignition switch. This needs to be pressed in with a tip of a screwdriver or the like, then the whole ignition will slide out.
Good luck!
Is there a special way to get the valve in to have it hit the cam.
I also replaced my shut off actuator because it was leaking air slowly.
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
George3soccer
08-22-2012, 06:03 PM #17Ok so here is what I came up with. Got the valve in correctly. I am having a problem with the valve holdin vacuum in the ON position. Once I start the motor it kills the motor in just seconds.
Is there a special way to get the valve in to have it hit the cam.
I also replaced my shut off actuator because it was leaking air slowly.
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
George3soccer
08-23-2012, 06:36 AM #19Tries swapping the lines still no cigar. My problem is that I'm not sure the cam is hitting the valve correctly. I removed the cluster, and put on each barb a short of rubbing to test and see if any of the barbs would be holding vacuum once in the ON key position. They both let air in. Seems like the valve is not engaging the cam once the key is turned.
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
(08-23-2012, 06:36 AM)George3soccer Tries swapping the lines still no cigar. My problem is that I'm not sure the cam is hitting the valve correctly. I removed the cluster, and put on each barb a short of rubbing to test and see if any of the barbs would be holding vacuum once in the ON key position. They both let air in. Seems like the valve is not engaging the cam once the key is turned.
Can you put on some additional pics of your ignition sw and the valve etc. I am going to start this same task in a day or so. Can you test the switch while the dash is still tornapart or do you have to re-assemble everything? I have a switch coming from a 190d and was hoping to use just the shutoff valve and put it on my switch. However I don't like the horror stories I'm hearing from you on your experience so far. I am not looking forward to tearing the dash apart but I've tried the other shutoff ideas that have been suggested to no avail. Any tips to offer? Thanks
(08-23-2012, 06:36 AM)George3soccer Tries swapping the lines still no cigar. My problem is that I'm not sure the cam is hitting the valve correctly. I removed the cluster, and put on each barb a short of rubbing to test and see if any of the barbs would be holding vacuum once in the ON key position. They both let air in. Seems like the valve is not engaging the cam once the key is turned.
(08-23-2012, 09:04 PM)2peej Can you put on some additional pics of your ignition sw and the valve etc. I am going to start this same task in a day or so. Can you test the switch while the dash is still tornapart or do you have to re-assemble everything? I have a switch coming from a 190d and was hoping to use just the shutoff valve and put it on my switch. However I don't like the horror stories I'm hearing from you on your experience so far. I am not looking forward to tearing the dash apart but I've tried the other shutoff ideas that have been suggested to no avail. Any tips to offer? Thanks
(08-23-2012, 06:36 AM)George3soccer Tries swapping the lines still no cigar. My problem is that I'm not sure the cam is hitting the valve correctly. I removed the cluster, and put on each barb a short of rubbing to test and see if any of the barbs would be holding vacuum once in the ON key position. They both let air in. Seems like the valve is not engaging the cam once the key is turned.
I got my 190D ignition switch today from a forum member. Hooked it up to the vacuum lines without installing it in the car, works perfectly. Hope to install Sat. Let me know if I can help.
(08-23-2012, 09:04 PM)2peej Can you put on some additional pics of your ignition sw and the valve etc. I am going to start this same task in a day or so. Can you test the switch while the dash is still tornapart or do you have to re-assemble everything? I have a switch coming from a 190d and was hoping to use just the shutoff valve and put it on my switch. However I don't like the horror stories I'm hearing from you on your experience so far. I am not looking forward to tearing the dash apart but I've tried the other shutoff ideas that have been suggested to no avail. Any tips to offer? Thanks
(08-23-2012, 06:36 AM)George3soccer Tries swapping the lines still no cigar. My problem is that I'm not sure the cam is hitting the valve correctly. I removed the cluster, and put on each barb a short of rubbing to test and see if any of the barbs would be holding vacuum once in the ON key position. They both let air in. Seems like the valve is not engaging the cam once the key is turned.
I have a video that I will upload on YouTube in a few.
Seems like the w201 gasser tumbler has the hole for the diesel valve but not the actual cam that follows inside it.
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
George3soccer
08-24-2012, 03:24 PM #22Hey 2peej, can you make a video of your 190d tumbler with the valve not attached to the tumbler. I just made a video and I can not see anything inside of the tumbler once turning the key on or off to have a cam move around inside.
I have a video that I will upload on YouTube in a few.
Seems like the w201 gasser tumbler has the hole for the diesel valve but not the actual cam that follows inside it.
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
(08-24-2012, 03:24 PM)George3soccer Hey 2peej, can you make a video of your 190d tumbler with the valve not attached to the tumbler. I just made a video and I can not see anything inside of the tumbler once turning the key on or off to have a cam move around inside.
I have a video that I will upload on YouTube in a few.
Seems like the w201 gasser tumbler has the hole for the diesel valve but not the actual cam that follows inside it.
I think you may be right, did you install the valve on the gas ignition sw? Were all the holes predrilled etc? I am thinking of taking the tumble key set out of the one I just recieved and putting my exiting ignition tumbler in so I don't have to have to ign. keys on my ring. Do you see any problem with that as I'm sure you have no doubt been all though that switch by now? I plan to get into the switches in the morning, I'll keep you posted. Shoot me the youtube link, not sure if I know how to upload to it, we'll see. I do plan on documenting and taking plenty of pics. Clair
(08-24-2012, 03:24 PM)George3soccer Hey 2peej, can you make a video of your 190d tumbler with the valve not attached to the tumbler. I just made a video and I can not see anything inside of the tumbler once turning the key on or off to have a cam move around inside.
I have a video that I will upload on YouTube in a few.
Seems like the w201 gasser tumbler has the hole for the diesel valve but not the actual cam that follows inside it.
The ignition tumbler is a w201 gasser tumbler, and it definitely had the cut out for the valve and the tapped holes for the valve to mount up on the tumbler. But one this no moving cam inside of the tumbler. Kind of pointless but oh well it doesn't need it since it was a gasser. here is my video i put together quickly. And under neath that you can see 2peej's w201 190D ignition tumbler with the built in cam.
http://youtu.be/RnbewFgiRhU
![[Image: 7866505684_ffc7ab7f1b_c.jpg]](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7133/7866505684_ffc7ab7f1b_c.jpg)
![[Image: 7866487878_dfe29cc25c_c.jpg]](http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8438/7866487878_dfe29cc25c_c.jpg)
![[Image: 7866473332_06bb994d2b_c.jpg]](http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8290/7866473332_06bb994d2b_c.jpg)
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
George3soccer
08-29-2012, 10:36 AM #24Ok here is the verdict about this shut off on my w201.
The ignition tumbler is a w201 gasser tumbler, and it definitely had the cut out for the valve and the tapped holes for the valve to mount up on the tumbler. But one this no moving cam inside of the tumbler. Kind of pointless but oh well it doesn't need it since it was a gasser. here is my video i put together quickly. And under neath that you can see 2peej's w201 190D ignition tumbler with the built in cam.
http://youtu.be/RnbewFgiRhU
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
I have not looked, is it possiable to take the lock apart to install a cam if a 123 one would work?
EDIT:
I had a sec and found the spare 123 lock assembly I have and was able to remove the cam, all I had to do was unscrew the three screws that hold the switch to the lock assembly and the cam slid right off.
Still don't know if it will fit on the 201 lock assembly, but it would be nice given that I have a cam and a valve from the 123.
I wonder if MB used the same cam for the 123?
I have not looked, is it possiable to take the lock apart to install a cam if a 123 one would work?
EDIT:
I had a sec and found the spare 123 lock assembly I have and was able to remove the cam, all I had to do was unscrew the three screws that hold the switch to the lock assembly and the cam slid right off.
Still don't know if it will fit on the 201 lock assembly, but it would be nice given that I have a cam and a valve from the 123.
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
George3soccer
08-29-2012, 05:42 PM #26That is my next question can I open up the ignition and just purchase the cam at MB and install it in.
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
(08-29-2012, 05:44 PM)OM616(08-29-2012, 05:42 PM)George3soccer That is my next question can I open up the ignition and just purchase the cam at MB and install it in.
See above; I have not had the 201 lock assembly in my hands yet, but I bet it is the same as the 123.
I don't know anything about the other model ign. switches but I do know that the pic at the beginning of this post has a shorter black tumbler cover than my 2 switches. One is off the 88 gas the other is off of an older diesel 190 I'm not sure of the year, I'll find out.
(08-29-2012, 05:44 PM)OM616(08-29-2012, 05:42 PM)George3soccer That is my next question can I open up the ignition and just purchase the cam at MB and install it in.
See above; I have not had the 201 lock assembly in my hands yet, but I bet it is the same as the 123.
).My plan is to use the shut-off valve from the electronic injection pumps. Would anyone happen to know which pin would go where if I want to hook it up so it shuts off when I turn off the ignition in a 190E chassis?
Worst case scenario, I will just add a push button somewhere to the center console for shutting off the engine. But it would still be great to know which pin does what on the shut-off valve.
Thank you.
![[Image: 330338d1284217724-c250-diesel-shut-off-v...070235.jpg]](http://www.benzworld.org/forums/attachments/w202-c-class/330338d1284217724-c250-diesel-shut-off-valve-leak-p1070235.jpg)
![[Image: 330339d1284217724-c250-diesel-shut-off-v...070236.jpg]](http://www.benzworld.org/forums/attachments/w202-c-class/330339d1284217724-c250-diesel-shut-off-valve-leak-p1070236.jpg)
Irony.cc
Sorry to bring this from the dead, but I will be dealing with the same dilemma this summer. However, I am deleting the vacuum pump along with the entire vacuum system. (Manual brakes will be fun. ).
My plan is to use the shut-off valve from the electronic injection pumps. Would anyone happen to know which pin would go where if I want to hook it up so it shuts off when I turn off the ignition in a 190E chassis?
Worst case scenario, I will just add a push button somewhere to the center console for shutting off the engine. But it would still be great to know which pin does what on the shut-off valve.
Thank you.
Irony.cc
but if u want to go electric, u can use the ignition "on" signal, a couple of relays and a linear actuator.
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
i cant see your point with that picture, that thing is a fuel heater , is not a shut of valve!!! EDC pumps are switched off cuting the power to the solenoid(rack electroactuator), the rack comes to the most aft position where no pumping is happening.
but if u want to go electric, u can use the ignition "on" signal, a couple of relays and a linear actuator.
FD,
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That is the shut off valve, the fuel heater is mounted on the block not on the IP.
@Matej with that valve you also get the flimsy o ring quick coupling connectors. They are much less reliable than banjo bolts. My advice would be to try to find an all metal shut off valve from a heavy duty truck or construction machine.
Barrote did you even look at the picture ??
That is the shut off valve, the fuel heater is mounted on the block not on the IP.
@Matej with that valve you also get the flimsy o ring quick coupling connectors. They are much less reliable than banjo bolts. My advice would be to try to find an all metal shut off valve from a heavy duty truck or construction machine.
(07-01-2015, 12:04 PM)Petar My advice would be to try to find an all metal shut off valve from a heavy duty truck or construction machine.That is probably a better idea. The plan was to mount it remotely on an adapter block anyway, so if there is a good universal electronic fuel cut valve I can use, I may as well do that instead.
Perhaps something like this? It could be spliced into the fuel pump wiring. If that would work, it would be perfect. There would be no need to mess with the ignition switch or cylinder, since the fuel pump is already wired to only be on with the ignition in gasoline cars.
![[Image: diesel-fuel-shutoff-valve-lrg.jpg]](http://www.howardinstruments.com.au/userfiles/file/Murphy/diesel-fuel-shutoff-valve-lrg.jpg)
(07-01-2015, 03:03 PM)barrote whatever the pic is , surelly is not used to kill the enginehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ni09-_CHrfs
Irony.cc
(07-01-2015, 12:04 PM)Petar My advice would be to try to find an all metal shut off valve from a heavy duty truck or construction machine.That is probably a better idea. The plan was to mount it remotely on an adapter block anyway, so if there is a good universal electronic fuel cut valve I can use, I may as well do that instead.
Perhaps something like this? It could be spliced into the fuel pump wiring. If that would work, it would be perfect. There would be no need to mess with the ignition switch or cylinder, since the fuel pump is already wired to only be on with the ignition in gasoline cars.
(07-01-2015, 03:03 PM)barrote whatever the pic is , surelly is not used to kill the enginehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ni09-_CHrfs
Irony.cc
in the pump tuning tables , theres is a voltage and mm to check engine cut of. understood that the pump would kill the engine by bringging the rack back , like the mech ones.
any how the problema with some pumps is losing positive pressure in the elemento case. when this happens the engine does not fire at once, takes some revolutions or thro is needed. changing the o rings and the banjo will eliminate the problema.
any how u this device should provide some heating means aswell, so why on heat is has 4 conections???
i have one engine at home without the preheater in the head.
FD,
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ok i admit was junping head foward , in my country they dont come with this device, i´ve seen some but never realise they would help in kiling the engine. looks like they help to.
in the pump tuning tables , theres is a voltage and mm to check engine cut of. understood that the pump would kill the engine by bringging the rack back , like the mech ones.
any how the problema with some pumps is losing positive pressure in the elemento case. when this happens the engine does not fire at once, takes some revolutions or thro is needed. changing the o rings and the banjo will eliminate the problema.
any how u this device should provide some heating means aswell, so why on heat is has 4 conections???
i have one engine at home without the preheater in the head.
FD,
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(07-02-2015, 05:55 AM)barrote ok i admit was junping head foward , in my country they dont come with this device, i´ve seen some but never realise they would help in kiling the engine. looks like they help to.
in the pump tuning tables , theres is a voltage and mm to check engine cut of. understood that the pump would kill the engine by bringging the rack back , like the mech ones.
any how the problema with some pumps is losing positive pressure in the elemento case. when this happens the engine does not fire at once, takes some revolutions or thro is needed. changing the o rings and the banjo will eliminate the problema.
any how u this device should provide some heating means aswell, so why on heat is has 4 conections???
i have one engine at home without the preheater in the head.
http://dm91.supanet.com/W202/Thread/OM605Pipes2.jpg
1. connection from the prefilter, 2. to the fuel pump, 3. from the fuel filter, 4. to the injection pump. A bit over designed plastic s...t.
(07-02-2015, 05:55 AM)barrote ok i admit was junping head foward , in my country they dont come with this device, i´ve seen some but never realise they would help in kiling the engine. looks like they help to.
in the pump tuning tables , theres is a voltage and mm to check engine cut of. understood that the pump would kill the engine by bringging the rack back , like the mech ones.
any how the problema with some pumps is losing positive pressure in the elemento case. when this happens the engine does not fire at once, takes some revolutions or thro is needed. changing the o rings and the banjo will eliminate the problema.
any how u this device should provide some heating means aswell, so why on heat is has 4 conections???
i have one engine at home without the preheater in the head.
http://dm91.supanet.com/W202/Thread/OM605Pipes2.jpg
1. connection from the prefilter, 2. to the fuel pump, 3. from the fuel filter, 4. to the injection pump. A bit over designed plastic s...t.
If you don't want to use a vacuum system, make an actuator that rotates the shut off shaft on the side of the pump.
Baldur Gislason
Using a solenoid to cut the fuel feed to the pump is not an effective way of stopping the engine. First off, it'll be very slow to stop and second, it will make restarting a nightmare too because air/foam will accumulate in the pump.
If you don't want to use a vacuum system, make an actuator that rotates the shut off shaft on the side of the pump.
Baldur Gislason
(07-03-2015, 12:10 PM)baldur Using a solenoid to cut the fuel feed to the pump is not an effective way of stopping the engine. First off, it'll be very slow to stop and second, it will make restarting a nightmare too because air/foam will accumulate in the pump.That is what was worrying me as well. How long the motor would actually take to shut off before the fuel still in the pump is spent.
I wonder how the stock electronic valve does it. Does it actually pull fuel out of the pump when it shuts down? It has three fuel lines going to it.
(07-03-2015, 12:27 PM)barrote yep , no no no u´re not correct !!!That is still what shuts down the engine on the electronic pumps. Just look up part number 000 078 44 49. Mercedes even specifically calls it a 'diesel shut-off valve.'to kill the engine u use the shut off valve in the black device shown in the picture above
hihi
Irony.cc
(07-03-2015, 12:10 PM)baldur Using a solenoid to cut the fuel feed to the pump is not an effective way of stopping the engine. First off, it'll be very slow to stop and second, it will make restarting a nightmare too because air/foam will accumulate in the pump.That is what was worrying me as well. How long the motor would actually take to shut off before the fuel still in the pump is spent.
I wonder how the stock electronic valve does it. Does it actually pull fuel out of the pump when it shuts down? It has three fuel lines going to it.
(07-03-2015, 12:27 PM)barrote yep , no no no u´re not correct !!!That is still what shuts down the engine on the electronic pumps. Just look up part number 000 078 44 49. Mercedes even specifically calls it a 'diesel shut-off valve.'
hihi
Irony.cc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8M5gFu3_mE
No need for a turbo timer.
It would probably be a bit faster the closer the shutoff valve is to the pump.
Irony.cc
Here is how long it takes an OM606 to shut down by cutting off fuel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8M5gFu3_mE
No need for a turbo timer.
It would probably be a bit faster the closer the shutoff valve is to the pump.
Irony.cc
u think i can adapt my mech pump to be switched off by that black device? i really need to find a solution my vac operated actuator is ruptured and the engine takes to long to stop.
regards.
FD,
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what one is suposed to learn from that vídeo? that u can kill the engine by cuting the fuel on the line? oh i didn´t knew about that. thanks i really leaned something
u think i can adapt my mech pump to be switched off by that black device? i really need to find a solution my vac operated actuator is ruptured and the engine takes to long to stop.
regards.
FD,
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in all this engines the switch of is by means of the pump stop injecting at "0" injection point wich also is used to drive down a Hill and brake with engine. Even comon rails are alike , exccep they do it by the ECU.
The gadgets around the pumps are special installations, manufacturer related. in the case of that black device in question, well that is a all in one heater and one way valve. to help the engine in starting. if u remove it from there the pump will work in all its abilities, exccept a litle harde to fire in cold.
regards people.
FD,
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yep a bit , cause most people dont know for real how this IP´s work wether they are mech or electric/tronic, or even common rails.
in all this engines the switch of is by means of the pump stop injecting at "0" injection point wich also is used to drive down a Hill and brake with engine. Even comon rails are alike , exccep they do it by the ECU.
The gadgets around the pumps are special installations, manufacturer related. in the case of that black device in question, well that is a all in one heater and one way valve. to help the engine in starting. if u remove it from there the pump will work in all its abilities, exccept a litle harde to fire in cold.
regards people.
FD,
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Baldur Gislason
That little black box on the electronic pumps is a solenoid valve, not a heater. It is there as a safety device I guess, to prevent runway in case the rack sticks. Under normal conditions, removing power from rack solenoid is enough to stop the engine.
Baldur Gislason
Honestly, the real reason I was curious about alternative ways to stop the pump is because I had the idea of adapting the back part of the mechanical pump to the body of the electronic pump. If it would work, it would be a simple way of creating a 6mm pump with a mechanical throttle. The issue is that the electronic pump body does not have the vacuum stop plunger or the emergency stop lever on it.
Does anyone know if it is even possible to swap the back of the pump, perhaps with a bit of customization and ingenuity, or is it completely different?
Irony.cc
The last two posts are informative and the kind of things that are nice to learn from this forum. Thanks.
Honestly, the real reason I was curious about alternative ways to stop the pump is because I had the idea of adapting the back part of the mechanical pump to the body of the electronic pump. If it would work, it would be a simple way of creating a 6mm pump with a mechanical throttle. The issue is that the electronic pump body does not have the vacuum stop plunger or the emergency stop lever on it.
Does anyone know if it is even possible to swap the back of the pump, perhaps with a bit of customization and ingenuity, or is it completely different?
Irony.cc
making a swap to 6mm doesn´t worth the trouble, unless u want to keep in the 300HP zone, and a smoth ride.
FD,
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the best solution is a mech pump , 7,5 or 8mm elements , it works quite well , depending on the fueling your "tune" can handle.
making a swap to 6mm doesn´t worth the trouble, unless u want to keep in the 300HP zone, and a smoth ride.
FD,
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