om606.962 lifter changing
om606.962 lifter changing
50harleyrider
08-14-2015, 06:34 AM #1I have a startup tap in my engine that disappears after 20 seconds so I suspect it's a lifter(175k miles). Are there any tricks for removing/replacing one and where is a good source?
after that all should be ok. 150.000 miles is nothing for a 606 engine. w124zone.com u can have a factory repair manual...
regards
FD,
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u dont need to replace it!!! replacement is only need if tappet is broken. otherwise u remove them and clean them, change the oil. desirable to flush the system.
after that all should be ok. 150.000 miles is nothing for a 606 engine. w124zone.com u can have a factory repair manual...
regards
FD,
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Are the lifters solid or are they hydraulic? If they are hydraulic lifters I know that old oil can get stuck in there which could cause a tapping noise, my guess with the tapping noise at start up could be something glowplug related - my engine is only on 235k miles and doesn't have any tapping noise and I am pretty sure the engine has been untouched internally.
50harleyrider
08-18-2015, 06:37 AM #4Hydraulic or else they woul have to be adjusted. Are they difficult to remove? The w-124 site shows no follower, only a hydraulic "compensator" which appears to be a "bucket" shim between the valve stem and cam lobe. Surely someone on here has removed them. Site says not to use steel tool to remove them. What's that mean? Thanks for site, Barrote
(08-18-2015, 06:37 AM)50harleyrider Hydraulic or else they woul have to be adjusted. Are they difficult to remove? The w-124 site shows no follower, only a hydraulic "compensator" which appears to be a "bucket" shim between the valve stem and cam lobe. Surely someone on here has removed them. Site says not to use steel tool to remove them. What's that mean? Thanks for site, Barrote
They are easy to change. Cam cover off, pump locked, timing chain tensioner removed, time cams to dots and remove. Then change said lifters.
Duncansport
08-18-2015, 02:53 PM #6(08-18-2015, 06:37 AM)50harleyrider Hydraulic or else they woul have to be adjusted. Are they difficult to remove? The w-124 site shows no follower, only a hydraulic "compensator" which appears to be a "bucket" shim between the valve stem and cam lobe. Surely someone on here has removed them. Site says not to use steel tool to remove them. What's that mean? Thanks for site, Barrote
They are easy to change. Cam cover off, pump locked, timing chain tensioner removed, time cams to dots and remove. Then change said lifters.
50harleyrider
08-19-2015, 06:27 AM #7Thanks. Will remove and clean all of the lifters since the cams have to come out and can check chain and tensioner for wear at the same time. Are all the fasteners re-useable? Since I'm changing to a Dieselmeken superpump for my 97 F-150 swap, can I leave the OE gas lift pump functional in the tank of my truck as well as re-use the oe line? I need to make sure 50 psi suction pressure on the M pump won't hurt it and if the oe line will be diesel and biodiesel compatible. Or should I go with a larger Viton line and remove the oe gas pump from the tank? Diesel being a lot higher viscosity might kill the pump.
I don't know about reusing the hardware but I'd certainly not keep the in tank pump & lines as they're gonna be the source of issues once you get the truck together. Use the biggest best fuel lines you can afford and at least swap the pump for one without ton of hours on it.
50harleyrider
08-24-2015, 07:04 AM #9Does the W124-zone.com site indicate where one time use TTY fasteners are used in the OM606 engines? I assume when torque values are provided, said fasteners are re-useable? Looks like a great site!
(08-24-2015, 07:04 AM)50harleyrider Does the W124-zone.com site indicate where one time use TTY fasteners are used in the OM606 engines? I assume when torque values are provided, said fasteners are re-useable? Looks like a great site!
Only the cylinder head bolts are TTY according to Mercedes WIS.
Duncansport
08-24-2015, 11:06 AM #10(08-24-2015, 07:04 AM)50harleyrider Does the W124-zone.com site indicate where one time use TTY fasteners are used in the OM606 engines? I assume when torque values are provided, said fasteners are re-useable? Looks like a great site!
Only the cylinder head bolts are TTY according to Mercedes WIS.
50harleyrider
01-05-2017, 06:27 AM #11Has anyone had luck with chemical cleaning of the hydraulic tappets in place rather than disassembly? I've seen some chemicals on the market like Seafoam and more expensive and just wanted to know if anyone has had success before I start wrenching. A lot of the guys on the TDICLUB forum swear by Liqui Moly products and here are two I found: 1. Liqui-Moly Tappet Stop Noise works in a similar way as an oil additive. It works for all types of engines, including diesel. It also works with any type of engine oil. It cleans engine parts, including worn lifters, and dampens the noise these parts can make. 2. Liqui Moly 20004 Hydraulic Lifter Additive. Maybe the nature of the construction of the OM606 tappets don't make them good candidates for this?
flushing the engine will not flush the lifters. But once one look at one dismantled rapidily will understand why i say this....
good luck
FD,
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Hyd lifters used in MB engines , need to be diassembled and cleaned, filled with oil and installed , they were made to last for as long as the engine last.
flushing the engine will not flush the lifters. But once one look at one dismantled rapidily will understand why i say this....
good luck
FD,
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Yes i think barrote is correct that lifters cannot be flushed with engine oil. The problem is once oil get's inside the lifter it has a very hard time coming out, it's quite likely that there is still some if not all oil in there from the factory oil fillup.
50harleyrider
01-12-2017, 08:13 AM #15Can anyone send me a link for how to change the lifters for cleaning? I've never been inside an om606.962 so I need to know if I need special tools and what procedures.
(01-12-2017, 08:13 AM)50harleyrider Can anyone send me a link for how to change the lifters for cleaning? I've never been inside an om606.962 so I need to know if I need special tools and what procedures.
Me too!
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(01-12-2017, 08:13 AM)50harleyrider Can anyone send me a link for how to change the lifters for cleaning? I've never been inside an om606.962 so I need to know if I need special tools and what procedures.
Me too!
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Anyone's ive done have a ball that needs to be depressed inside so a thin bar will do.
Set 3 baths aside filled with diesel, one with all lifters in then clean each one in the second bath, pressing the ball and pushing the lifter to stroke it.
Finally do the same in a final bath to limit / reduce contamination.
They also make a racket until they fill back with oil.
Ive done hydraulic lifters before and they suggest using diesel to clean them out.
Anyone's ive done have a ball that needs to be depressed inside so a thin bar will do.
Set 3 baths aside filled with diesel, one with all lifters in then clean each one in the second bath, pressing the ball and pushing the lifter to stroke it.
Finally do the same in a final bath to limit / reduce contamination.
They also make a racket until they fill back with oil.
1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km
1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD
I was literally just reading this thread 30 seconds ago so it might come in handy to someone http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...fters.html
1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km
1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD
(01-12-2017, 07:14 PM)NZScott I was literally just reading this thread 30 seconds ago so it might come in handy to someone http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...fters.html
lol same..
https://youtu.be/ySf0r8GGMOY
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(01-12-2017, 07:14 PM)NZScott I was literally just reading this thread 30 seconds ago so it might come in handy to someone http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...fters.html
lol same..
https://youtu.be/ySf0r8GGMOY
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
obviously above the piston / bucket is the cam contact . to remove the hyd actuator use a plyer, and some ingenuity , clean all with white spirit , fill with oil assembler and thats it ,
lifter failures i have seen is the hyd actuator valve leaking , or the tappet /bucket /piston crown ruptured due to wear.
FD,
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Hope to shed to light into the lifters
obviously above the piston / bucket is the cam contact . to remove the hyd actuator use a plyer, and some ingenuity , clean all with white spirit , fill with oil assembler and thats it ,
lifter failures i have seen is the hyd actuator valve leaking , or the tappet /bucket /piston crown ruptured due to wear.
FD,
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(08-18-2015, 02:53 PM)Duncansport(08-18-2015, 06:37 AM)50harleyrider Hydraulic or else they woul have to be adjusted. Are they difficult to remove? The w-124 site shows no follower, only a hydraulic "compensator" which appears to be a "bucket" shim between the valve stem and cam lobe. Surely someone on here has removed them. Site says not to use steel tool to remove them. What's that mean? Thanks for site, Barrote
They are easy to change. Cam cover off, pump locked, timing chain tensioner removed, time cams to dots and remove. Then change said lifters.
Duncansport, apologies if I am being stupid, but if you lock the IP first, surely then you wouldn't be able to time the cams to the dots? However reading this I assume removing the tensioner gives chain slack to allow it. So to re-time crank would just have to be set then good to go?
Beer,
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(08-18-2015, 02:53 PM)Duncansport(08-18-2015, 06:37 AM)50harleyrider Hydraulic or else they woul have to be adjusted. Are they difficult to remove? The w-124 site shows no follower, only a hydraulic "compensator" which appears to be a "bucket" shim between the valve stem and cam lobe. Surely someone on here has removed them. Site says not to use steel tool to remove them. What's that mean? Thanks for site, Barrote
They are easy to change. Cam cover off, pump locked, timing chain tensioner removed, time cams to dots and remove. Then change said lifters.
Duncansport, apologies if I am being stupid, but if you lock the IP first, surely then you wouldn't be able to time the cams to the dots? However reading this I assume removing the tensioner gives chain slack to allow it. So to re-time crank would just have to be set then good to go?
Beer,
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
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