led-panzer's 1984 300D 4-speed
led-panzer's 1984 300D 4-speed
Well the proper flywheel for a 300D weighs 38lbs. I'm currently using a 28lb flywheel from a 240D. I'm not sure which one Fred started with
Nah, I'm leaving the hood alone. I've bastardized the W123 enough already
With it rotated like it is in the picture the hood won't close. I rotated it so the outlet was pointing at the coolant expansion tank, it looked like it would make it.....and I have a nice little dent.
So I've decided to go with a temporary solution (that some of you won't like) while I save up for a genuine GT3076R.
I found a T3/T4 T04E 57 trim, Stage 3 turbine in a .63 A/R housing, Anti-surge compressor housing.
I got it for -get this- $170 shipped. Yes it's an eBay special. I only need it to last till maybe the fall.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261964006908?ssP...1555.l2649
Put my W115 intake manifold on ebay. No reserve, free shipping to forum members.
Also selling my HX35 and HE341, if anyone wants them. $250 for the HE341, $350 for the HX35, which is either brand new or rebuilt, not sure. Either way never ran.
Maybe this is for the best. The HX35 is probably going to better at high pressure ratios than any Garrett you find but it's lag might be a little irritating for a car as porky as a W123.
(07-11-2015, 05:11 PM)led-panzer http://www.ebay.com/itm/261964006908?ssP...1555.l2649
Put my W115 intake manifold on ebay. No reserve, free shipping to forum members.
Also selling my HX35 and HE341, if anyone wants them. $250 for the HE341, $350 for the HX35, which is either brand new or rebuilt, not sure. Either way never ran.
(07-11-2015, 05:11 PM)led-panzer http://www.ebay.com/itm/261964006908?ssP...1555.l2649
Put my W115 intake manifold on ebay. No reserve, free shipping to forum members.
Also selling my HX35 and HE341, if anyone wants them. $250 for the HE341, $350 for the HX35, which is either brand new or rebuilt, not sure. Either way never ran.
Ray - Yes I was thinking the same. Now if I spring for the GTX I'll still be nicely on the map even at full output (5500rpm, 30psi) while also most likely having better driving manners than the HX35.
MF - I know. Taking a chance.
Atypicalguy - 12cm turbine housing
What holset did FRAS mock it up with in the photo?
You could bring it down and forward with an S-shaped adapter.
I was thinking 16cm housing for the HX35 but could try a 12 if the price is good.
FRAS used an HE351 with a 12cm housing. It all fits great, just not the hood clearance. He doesn't have a W123 chassis.
The HX35 is on eBay, have at it. Or $350 buys it now
Both turbos and the manifold are SOLD.
The T3/T4 arrived today.
It actually looks pretty good for being such a cheap turbo. I think it will work out. I clocked it the correct way and mounted it, it will just barely fit. Whew.
I was going to have the exhaust manifold ceramic coated but in the interest of time and money I decided to just wrap it.
And sanded/ threw some paint on the intake manifold.
I ordered some copper and teflon to make some proper gaskets for the manifolds, which arrived today, thats the next thing. Then we can get everything mounted and running (finally).
Working on it, slowly but getting there. Only been off 2 of the last 14 days, summer overtime has been nuts.
I got the manifolds installed, got the turbo on and running. I tapped the pan for a 3/4 NPT, and used a -12AN line for the turbo drain = no leaks ever.
Got parts in the mail for the downpipe, then we should be on the road.
Waoooo
That's so awesome mate.
Well I got everything running and took the car out for a little drive.
No leaks (amazingly) and the cheap ebay turbo hasn't exploded (yet)
So I haven't gotten the F-tune flywheel and clutch in yet, and the stock clutch is totally useless. I can't get a feel for the car because the clutch won't hold enough to really build boost.
Now I did get it to cooperate only once, hit about 25lbs of boost and she was pulling very nicely, followed by a big POP and me shitting my pants, but it was just a silicone boot that popped.
So I need to get the exhaust done properly (currently a cobble-job) and get this flywheel and clutch in so that I can really feel the power. Also thinking that I'd benefit from a proper turbo as well.
Stay tuned...
Great that it's running mate. Change that FW and clutch now. Our stuff will never slip on you
I've lurking around this thread for awhile. Decided it was time speak up. This build is awesome! Can't wait to see it completed.
Started the flywheel and clutch install.
240 flywheel beside the new custom 18lb flywheel
Sachs 765 pressure plate and clutch disc
Installed on engine
The new setup is .140 shorter than the stock flywheel/clutch/pressure plate. So I spaced out the clutch fork pivot point with washers equal to .140", which should work, in theory.
Going to get the trans back in tomorrow. With a new master/slave cylinder and clutch line. Hope it works!
Nicely done! Does the new transmission require a different master cylinder? I'm assuming the slave is different.
Thanks man
Still using the same 240D 4 speed for now. Saving up for a proper (most likely ball bearing) turbo, then the next investment after that will be a BMW 5 or 6 speed. Hoping the old 4 speed tranny will hold together once I'm able to actually put power through it.
Ah ok. I thought you had already pulled the trigger on the BMW transmission.
I was wondering about your starter set up. The stock exhaust manifold has a small heat shield to protect the starter. Is the F-tune manifold close enough to the starter that heat is a concern?
The F-tune manifold is pretty well clear of the starter, the runners come out straight for a bit, unlike the stock cast manifold that makes a sharp 90 degree turn down.
Plus I wrapped the header, when the car is running you can touch the wrap and not get burned. Holds the heat in very well.
I have two 3" mandrel bends, as long as I have the car up on stands I'm going to make a proper downpipe. Then find a shop to finish it all the way out.
Got the transmission back in and everything replaced accordingly. Filled it up with Mobil 1 synthetic ATF.
Got the downpipe in as well
All I have to do tomorrow is bleed the clutch and hope it all works. Quite nervous.
.
Nice. I like to see folks making their own exhausts. Not the sort of thing you can click "add to cart" with.
It works! It works!!
I did the "oil can" method to bleed the clutch, it only took 3 tries
First impressions:
The clutch pedal is most definitely stiffer. Not like my left leg will be bigger than my right stiffer, but its there. The clutch is very firm throughout its whole range of motion, so I'm confident I got all the air out of it.
It engages pretty much right off the floor, not horrible but I had to get used to it. Stalled it 4 times
As expected, the puck clutch disc engages "right now" you have to be ready for it. You really can't slip it.
So test drive - Well F.R.A.S was right, no slippage whatsoever. It just grabs and holds. From second on it just feels like it grips powerfully, just as easy as the stock clutch was rowing through the gears.
This was the first time out that I actually got to feel the power, and I was not disappointed. Up to 3000rpm its peppy and "quick", I had 10lbs of boost by then. From 3000-5500 hold on! Boost topped out at 28lbs and holy shit does she move I was hitting 80-90mph before I knew it.
Now I have some tuning to do, at 28psi, 5000rpm, my EGT's were 1400. So I need to back off the fuel a bit as far as the max setting. At least until I get a better turbo, I can't imagine this ebay knockoff is very efficient. I have an IAT gauge I'm going to wire up and see how much of that 1400 is intake temp.
I really really need to get a proper exhaust on this thing too. Its uncomfortably loud at anything other than idle. The turbo really screams too, but thats good noise
So let me break it in a bit and get used to it, and get the exhaust finished out the back and I'll post some 0-60 and acceleration videos. Maybe even a burnout
Here's a current engine bay shot. I know its dirty
(08-14-2015, 02:33 PM)Keino Videos is gonna be a treatPure awesomeness!
(08-14-2015, 02:33 PM)Keino Sweeeeet!
Good news!
Hows the engine acting considering the lightweight flywheel?
No odd vibrations or such? How are the high rpms?
Videos is gonna be a treat
(08-14-2015, 02:33 PM)Keino Sweeeeet!
Good news!
Hows the engine acting considering the lightweight flywheel?
No odd vibrations or such? How are the high rpms?
Videos is gonna be a treat
led-panzer The clutch pedal is most definitely stiffer. Not like my left leg will be bigger than my right stiffer, but its there. The clutch is very firm throughout its whole range of motion, so I'm confident I got all the air out of it.
It engages pretty much right off the floor, not horrible but I had to get used to it. Stalled it 4 times
led-panzer The clutch pedal is most definitely stiffer. Not like my left leg will be bigger than my right stiffer, but its there. The clutch is very firm throughout its whole range of motion, so I'm confident I got all the air out of it.
It engages pretty much right off the floor, not horrible but I had to get used to it. Stalled it 4 times
I am loving this thread. Looking forward to dyno results when you finish tuning up (unless you were going to wait til you get a "proper" turbo in)
Awesome mate, nice that you are vibration free. Job done so to speak
I love this thread. Since I'm waiting for F.R.A.S. to make my manifolds, I thought I would read through this again. Had a question about the injection pump. How does the M Pump get oil? The MW pump has an oil line that attaches in the front. I don't see that on the DieselMeken pump.
The M-pump is oiled through the camshaft. If you look at the very front of it, it's hollow. Just block that MW supply port with a bolt (M8x1.0?) and install the pump.
Whenever I've had to take an M-pump off my car it's always full of oil, so it really is that simple.
Going to try to upload some videos tomorrow.
.
LOVE IT JAKE ! Very impressive work.
Thanks Mark and everyone else
I haven't gotten my IAT gauge hooked up yet, but I believe my turbo is inadequate. With my HE341 last year after a highway run the pre-intercooler pipes would be hot, and the post-intercooler pipes would actually be cool to the touch. With this T3/T4 the post intercooler pipes are hot. Is it a precise measurement, no, but it leads me to believe that my intake temps are too high.
I'm going to try a smaller A/R exhaust housing to spool sooner, with this .63 A/R housing I don't have 30psi till 4000RPM. And at 5500RPM, 30psi boost, I calculate 52lbs/min of airflow. Off the map for a T04E 50trim compressor wheel.
And thus, I'm going to try a GT3582 with a .48A/R exhaust housing. Uncharted waters here, gasser guys will tell you that combo will suck, the turbine housing is too small, but they don't have an 80's prechamber diesel.
Maybe stick to 0.63 and go ball bearing instead? You have a clone of a clone of a clone of a shitty turbo to begin with So you can only do better. GTX-series???
(08-24-2015, 03:40 AM)F.R.A.S Maybe stick to 0.63 and go ball bearing instead? You have a clone of a clone of a clone of a shitty turbo to begin with So you can only do better. GTX-series???
(08-24-2015, 03:40 AM)F.R.A.S Maybe stick to 0.63 and go ball bearing instead? You have a clone of a clone of a clone of a shitty turbo to begin with So you can only do better. GTX-series???
Wow! That is impressive. Do you know what the max RPM setting is on your IP? Sounded like you took it to about 5K but it seemed like it would have gone higher if you asked it to.
I love the sound of the turbo spooling down.
Thanks for posting this. It was worth the wait.
(08-24-2015, 11:19 AM)Torkey Wow! That is impressive. Do you know what the max RPM setting is on your IP? Sounded like you took it to about 5K but it seemed like it would have gone higher if you asked it to.
I love the sound of the turbo spooling down.
Thanks for posting this. It was worth the wait.
(08-24-2015, 11:19 AM)Torkey Wow! That is impressive. Do you know what the max RPM setting is on your IP? Sounded like you took it to about 5K but it seemed like it would have gone higher if you asked it to.
I love the sound of the turbo spooling down.
Thanks for posting this. It was worth the wait.
(08-24-2015, 08:55 PM)raysorenson have you changed valve springs?
(08-24-2015, 08:55 PM)raysorenson have you changed valve springs?
Took two turbos with shortcomings and made one good one out of them.
Took the turbine out of the T3/T4, all the measurements were exactly the same as the one from the GT35, except the wheel itself of course. So I just simply swapped out the turbine wheel/shaft. Put the .63 housing on, which fit the GT35 CHRA, and it all bolted together. Couldn't believe it.
Fired it up, checked ok, took it out for a drive. Only took it to 25psi, but EGT's didn't pass 1300. Top end is back. Checked it out when I got back and there's no excess shaft play and it's not bypassing any oil.
So, it worked! We'll see how long I guess