OM606.962 in Geländewagen

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minim

K26-2

41

07-15-2015, 03:38 PM #1

Here from picking up the donor car.
[Image: IMG_0810.JPG]

Top have only been driven about 10k km since rebuild.
[Image: IMG_0869.JPG]

Finally out of a car. Took a whole day removing bits and pieces considering what I had to use and not.
[Image: IMG_0878.JPG]

I found a wire that I don't have on my car. This was going to the brake pedal and when it's pulled the gearbox is locked in "P" but when I don't engage the wire it can shift fine through P-R-N-D. Is it normal to just cut this wire and drive without it?
[Image: IMG_0882.JPG]

Leak from the contact.. I bought a new plug to replace this when I'm swapping the filters but do I have to pull out the electronics card also to clean it for oil? It looks pretty open in the end where the pins are so I would think that the oil has been running all the way inside the circuit board inside the tranny to.
[Image: IMG_0879.JPG]

And a new day and time to pull out the engine from my geländewagen.
[Image: IMG_0884.JPG]

Both engines are out and it's time to swap parts and build one engine from them Smile

I know I'm making a huge mess on the floor but nomatter what I did whem emptying the engines there was oil/water comming out when I moved them some around and pulled some other hoses that needed to be removed (most likely amateur moves)..
[Image: IMG_0904.JPG]

Had high hopes of moving the AC-system over from the 603 engine to this 606 and it does looks like a good fit but the bolt holes are ruined by the previous owner. Two of the bolts are cracked inside and the other two are relly short threads on so it looks like something has been done there also (maybe drilled and helicoil?). For now I won't fit it since it's just to much work for the two sunny days a year that we have here in Norway.
[Image: IMG_0905.JPG]

Testmounted a RS157 pump from a W124 and will be starting the engine with this one for the first test I think. I got a RS179 pump on the 350 engine that I will be sending over til Dieselmekken for some 7.5mm elements and some love&care Smile

A new Holset HX30W showed up on my doorstep :o
[Image: IMG_0909.JPG]

Tiny transport damage on the vacuum controller for the wastegate tho. Haven't tested if it has any impact yet but I hope not.
[Image: IMG_0911.JPG]

Test fitted the TPS sensor today. It doesn't get full move so I have to move the ball link further in on the controllarm on the cruisecontroller. I ordered a new ball link to fit there but it's in germany so it will take a few days to get it shipped over here. Short video can be seen on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNn7Hjg1KnQ
[Image: IMG_0913.JPG]

Pulled out the dieselpump again to install it further away from the block at the top to have more clearance for the throttle linkages. Still adjusted to 15 degrees like the stock electric pump. Also if anyone noticed I swapped the oilfilter housing to use the pressure sensor from my 603 engine.
[Image: IMG_0924.JPG]

Due to a project on my daily driver (clogged EGR on a bmw x5) I aquired this gadget. Always wanted it so now I finally had a good reason to get me one :p
[Image: IMG_0923.JPG]

Poor-mans locking tool :X It's only secured by one bolt to the block. Is this safe to use when tightening the main shaft bolt again? I think it's supposed to be tightened by 450-500Nm or so..
[Image: IMG_0929.JPG]

When I removed the cover below the engine today I noticed that there was no guard on the engine below the three last sylinders and that it was mounted in the cover. I was thinking to swap over my 603 cover to get my speed sensor and oil pump from 603 fit on the 606 so it was better suited for offroad use. Is it a bad idea to drive without any cover there?
[Image: IMG_0936.JPG]

And now for something I'm not sure about at all! Someone told me that the locking pin on the main shaft register-wheel was a weak point when tuning the 606 engine. I got told that it was smart to use a second locking pin 180 degrees to the stock one. It allready shows on the belt pulley that it slipped some so I guess it's a smart thing to do if pulling out another 100hp from it. What I got told was that I could drill and make threads for a M5 umbraco without head with the pulley mounted on the outside. Has anyone got experience with doing this?
[Image: IMG_0938.JPG]

Got the tranny ready for servicing tomorrow also when I figure out what to do with the electrical connector when it comes to cleaning inside the tranny.
[Image: IMG_0941.JPG]

I'm sorry for the big pictures but I didn't find way to make small template pictures.

This post was last modified: 07-16-2015, 03:49 PM by minim.

minim

07-15-2015, 03:38 PM #1

I've recently started converting my 350 Geländewagen with a 603 3.5 liter engine in it to a 3.0 606.96 engine. I will also be using the 722.6 transmission. This is my first time taking a engine out of a car so I'm taking it slowly and have been getting some good help from more experienced friends online.

I'll start the thread with pictures and info I had on a Norwegian forum and take it from there. I will prolly ask some questions here to along the way and please if you see me doing something stupid then let me know! I have a lot to learn Smile

Here from picking up the donor car.
[Image: IMG_0810.JPG]
[Image: IMG_0867.JPG]

Top have only been driven about 10k km since rebuild.
[Image: IMG_0869.JPG]

Finally out of a car. Took a whole day removing bits and pieces considering what I had to use and not.
[Image: IMG_0878.JPG]

I found a wire that I don't have on my car. This was going to the brake pedal and when it's pulled the gearbox is locked in "P" but when I don't engage the wire it can shift fine through P-R-N-D. Is it normal to just cut this wire and drive without it?
[Image: IMG_0882.JPG]

Leak from the contact.. I bought a new plug to replace this when I'm swapping the filters but do I have to pull out the electronics card also to clean it for oil? It looks pretty open in the end where the pins are so I would think that the oil has been running all the way inside the circuit board inside the tranny to.
[Image: IMG_0879.JPG]

And a new day and time to pull out the engine from my geländewagen.
[Image: IMG_0884.JPG]
[Image: IMG_0902.JPG]

Both engines are out and it's time to swap parts and build one engine from them Smile I know I'm making a huge mess on the floor but nomatter what I did whem emptying the engines there was oil/water comming out when I moved them some around and pulled some other hoses that needed to be removed (most likely amateur moves)..
[Image: IMG_0904.JPG]

Had high hopes of moving the AC-system over from the 603 engine to this 606 and it does looks like a good fit but the bolt holes are ruined by the previous owner. Two of the bolts are cracked inside and the other two are relly short threads on so it looks like something has been done there also (maybe drilled and helicoil?). For now I won't fit it since it's just to much work for the two sunny days a year that we have here in Norway.
[Image: IMG_0905.JPG]
[Image: IMG_0906.JPG]

Testmounted a RS157 pump from a W124 and will be starting the engine with this one for the first test I think. I got a RS179 pump on the 350 engine that I will be sending over til Dieselmekken for some 7.5mm elements and some love&care Smile
[Image: IMG_0908.JPG]

A new Holset HX30W showed up on my doorstep :o
[Image: IMG_0909.JPG]

Tiny transport damage on the vacuum controller for the wastegate tho. Haven't tested if it has any impact yet but I hope not.
[Image: IMG_0911.JPG]

Test fitted the TPS sensor today. It doesn't get full move so I have to move the ball link further in on the controllarm on the cruisecontroller. I ordered a new ball link to fit there but it's in germany so it will take a few days to get it shipped over here. Short video can be seen on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNn7Hjg1KnQ
[Image: IMG_0913.JPG]
[Image: IMG_0920.JPG]

Pulled out the dieselpump again to install it further away from the block at the top to have more clearance for the throttle linkages. Still adjusted to 15 degrees like the stock electric pump. Also if anyone noticed I swapped the oilfilter housing to use the pressure sensor from my 603 engine.
[Image: IMG_0924.JPG]

Due to a project on my daily driver (clogged EGR on a bmw x5) I aquired this gadget. Always wanted it so now I finally had a good reason to get me one :p
[Image: IMG_0923.JPG]
[Image: IMG_0921.JPG]
[Image: IMG_0922.JPG]

Poor-mans locking tool :X It's only secured by one bolt to the block. Is this safe to use when tightening the main shaft bolt again? I think it's supposed to be tightened by 450-500Nm or so..
[Image: IMG_0929.JPG]

When I removed the cover below the engine today I noticed that there was no guard on the engine below the three last sylinders and that it was mounted in the cover. I was thinking to swap over my 603 cover to get my speed sensor and oil pump from 603 fit on the 606 so it was better suited for offroad use. Is it a bad idea to drive without any cover there?
[Image: IMG_0936.JPG]

And now for something I'm not sure about at all! Someone told me that the locking pin on the main shaft register-wheel was a weak point when tuning the 606 engine. I got told that it was smart to use a second locking pin 180 degrees to the stock one. It allready shows on the belt pulley that it slipped some so I guess it's a smart thing to do if pulling out another 100hp from it. What I got told was that I could drill and make threads for a M5 umbraco without head with the pulley mounted on the outside. Has anyone got experience with doing this?
[Image: IMG_0938.JPG]
[Image: IMG_0939.JPG]

Got the tranny ready for servicing tomorrow also when I figure out what to do with the electrical connector when it comes to cleaning inside the tranny.
[Image: IMG_0941.JPG]

I'm sorry for the big pictures but I didn't find way to make small template pictures.

minim

K26-2

41

07-16-2015, 04:01 PM #2

Fittet a new seal when I had it open anyways.
[Image: IMG_0953.JPG]

Fitted the oil pump from the 603 engine over to the 606 since it goes deeper.
[Image: IMG_0955.JPG]

Will also swap the sump from the 603 engine so it was down to some cleaning today Smile

When looking in WIS it says that I should tigthen the nut on the crankshaft with 200Nm + 90 degrees but someone told me that's not enough so will borrow a bigger torque wrench that can measure up to 500Nm tomorrow and pull it with 460-480Nm and use some Locktite 270 strong on it Smile

Hope me making a swiss cheese of the crankshaft haven't made it weaker so it breaks when tightening it..

minim

07-16-2015, 04:01 PM #2

Update from todays modding of the woodruff key. Short story is that it was a total disaster.. Long version is that I drilled the first hole to much towards the center so as the picture is showing I was perfect on entrance on the pulley wheel but on the inside I was only in the the crankshaft so the registry wheel had no effect of this mod.. After a lot of thinking I decided to drill another whole and this one was successfull. I ended up with using set screws in M5x45 for locking. I could prolly have gone 2cm longer in with them but I figured that since I will only be pulling around 250hp I was safe without going all the way. Going longer would require special order of tools so I skipped that. I hope I didn't ruin to much strenght on the crankshaft with that hole going to long towards the center.

[Image: IMG_0949.JPG]

[Image: IMG_0951.JPG]

Fittet a new seal when I had it open anyways.
[Image: IMG_0953.JPG]

[Image: IMG_0954.JPG]

Fitted the oil pump from the 603 engine over to the 606 since it goes deeper.
[Image: IMG_0955.JPG]

Will also swap the sump from the 603 engine so it was down to some cleaning today Smile
[Image: IMG_0956.JPG]

When looking in WIS it says that I should tigthen the nut on the crankshaft with 200Nm + 90 degrees but someone told me that's not enough so will borrow a bigger torque wrench that can measure up to 500Nm tomorrow and pull it with 460-480Nm and use some Locktite 270 strong on it Smile Hope me making a swiss cheese of the crankshaft haven't made it weaker so it breaks when tightening it..

minim

K26-2

41

07-19-2015, 05:25 AM #3

Comparing the flange from 722.3 on my 350 (old one) and the new one I'm gonna fit. Looks quite different and the diameter isn't right either so no point trying to use that. The new flange has following part number A4632720245
[Image: IMG_0961.JPG]

My special tool for removing/installing the flange on 722.6 :p It would work with a long 30mm 12-star socket but I didn't have that so I cut a regular socket in half and welded a pipe inbetween to get it longer.
[Image: IMG_0963.JPG]

Replaced the electrical socket and filter+gasket when I had the box on the bench anyways.
[Image: IMG_0982.JPG]

I decided to replace the rear seal on the crank when I had things appart but I regret that now. When replacing this seal you also have to replace the rear cover since the stock seal is vulcanized into the cover. This new cover and seal did not center 100% on the crank so it had a little bit less than 1mm gap on the outer dust-ring on the top and was thight on the bottom (centered to high). The cover goes into two pins that holds it in place so I can't move it in any direction. I tried to tighten the bolts coming in from the belly pan below first to pull it further down but it didn't have any affect (used 10Nm torque as specified). I really hope it won't leak as it will be a big job fixing that later on.
[Image: IMG_0969.JPG]

Also forgot to buy the stretch bolts for the driveplate so I can't assemble the engine/gearbox again today. Will order new bolts on monday if they don't keep them in stock at my dealer.
[Image: IMG_0989.JPG]

Stripped down the 350 engine also and will be taking that out of the garage today and take the car in again so I can start to install the engine as soon as those stretch bolts arrive.
[Image: IMG_0988.JPG]

minim

07-19-2015, 05:25 AM #3

Time for a short update again.

Here pulling 480Nm on the crankshaft bolt (+ locktite 270). I know it says in WIS to use 200Nm+90 degrees but it was not enough according the the same guys that had problems with the bolt comming loose. I guess the difference between 200Nm+90 degrees and 480Nm isn't big anyways but I didn't measure it. Did not change the bolt since WIS didn't mention it and it usally does when they should be replaced. I regret that now but as I had to borrow the big torque wrench and it was a lot of hassle I won't buy a new bolt and swap it.
[Image: IMG_0958.JPG]
Comparing the flange from 722.3 on my 350 (old one) and the new one I'm gonna fit. Looks quite different and the diameter isn't right either so no point trying to use that. The new flange has following part number A4632720245
[Image: IMG_0961.JPG]
[Image: IMG_0962.JPG]

My special tool for removing/installing the flange on 722.6 :p It would work with a long 30mm 12-star socket but I didn't have that so I cut a regular socket in half and welded a pipe inbetween to get it longer.
[Image: IMG_0963.JPG]
Replaced the electrical socket and filter+gasket when I had the box on the bench anyways.
[Image: IMG_0982.JPG]
[Image: IMG_0986.JPG]
I decided to replace the rear seal on the crank when I had things appart but I regret that now. When replacing this seal you also have to replace the rear cover since the stock seal is vulcanized into the cover. This new cover and seal did not center 100% on the crank so it had a little bit less than 1mm gap on the outer dust-ring on the top and was thight on the bottom (centered to high). The cover goes into two pins that holds it in place so I can't move it in any direction. I tried to tighten the bolts coming in from the belly pan below first to pull it further down but it didn't have any affect (used 10Nm torque as specified). I really hope it won't leak as it will be a big job fixing that later on.
[Image: IMG_0969.JPG]
Also forgot to buy the stretch bolts for the driveplate so I can't assemble the engine/gearbox again today. Will order new bolts on monday if they don't keep them in stock at my dealer.
[Image: IMG_0989.JPG]
Stripped down the 350 engine also and will be taking that out of the garage today and take the car in again so I can start to install the engine as soon as those stretch bolts arrive.
[Image: IMG_0988.JPG]

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

07-24-2015, 09:59 AM #4

The flex-disc to crank bolts are stretch to yield??... Oooppps...

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

07-24-2015, 09:59 AM #4

The flex-disc to crank bolts are stretch to yield??... Oooppps...

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

minim

K26-2

41

07-24-2015, 12:47 PM #5

(07-24-2015, 09:59 AM)Hario The flex-disc to crank bolts are stretch to yield??... Oooppps...

WIS says to replace them everytime yes. However this is for the T55 torx bolts. There are 3x different versions of these bolts and if I recall correctly the other two versions can be measured and refit if they are within specifications but double check that as I didn't pay much attention to it since I had T55 torx bolts. I also think you should angle tight these bolts but I don't have access to WIS from work so I can't check to confirm before I'm back home.

The project is now halted for two weeks also as I'm at work. I did send the injection pump and injectors to Dieselmekken for an upgrade so hopefully it's returned from dieselmekken when I return from work so I can put the motor in the car again.

minim

07-24-2015, 12:47 PM #5

(07-24-2015, 09:59 AM)Hario The flex-disc to crank bolts are stretch to yield??... Oooppps...

minim

K26-2

41

11-06-2015, 12:10 PM #6

Been really lazy on the updates lately but I did start the engine today Big Grin

still have to make exhaust pipes, wire the gearbox controller, fit the radiator for the watercooled intercooler and some small stuff before it's ready tho..

I do have a problem with it not starting from the key. I thought it was the starter lockout switch on the old 722.3 gearbox that fooled me, but I have jumped that connection now without any luck. I can't find wiring diagrams in WIS either so it's searching blind ^^ anyone have a tip?

This post was last modified: 11-06-2015, 12:11 PM by minim.

minim

11-06-2015, 12:10 PM #6

Been really lazy on the updates lately but I did start the engine today Big Grin still have to make exhaust pipes, wire the gearbox controller, fit the radiator for the watercooled intercooler and some small stuff before it's ready tho..

I do have a problem with it not starting from the key. I thought it was the starter lockout switch on the old 722.3 gearbox that fooled me, but I have jumped that connection now without any luck. I can't find wiring diagrams in WIS either so it's searching blind ^^ anyone have a tip?

olefejer

GT2559V

197

11-06-2015, 02:30 PM #7

(11-06-2015, 12:10 PM)minim I do have a problem with it not starting from the key. I thought it was the starter lockout switch on the old 722.3 gearbox that fooled me, but I have jumped that connection now without any luck. I can't find wiring diagrams in WIS either so it's searching blind ^^ anyone have a tip?

Do you have a picture of the plug that was going to the old gearbox ? then maby i can help.

1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)

olefejer

11-06-2015, 02:30 PM #7

(11-06-2015, 12:10 PM)minim I do have a problem with it not starting from the key. I thought it was the starter lockout switch on the old 722.3 gearbox that fooled me, but I have jumped that connection now without any luck. I can't find wiring diagrams in WIS either so it's searching blind ^^ anyone have a tip?

Do you have a picture of the plug that was going to the old gearbox ? then maby i can help.

1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)

minim

K26-2

41

11-06-2015, 03:03 PM #8

I guess I can go and take one if you need it. It's a 4pin round plug and I figured that the two 2.5mm2 had to be the starter lockout and the two 0.75mm2 had to be reverse light. I'm not so sure the error is in the plug anymore since it didn't help to jumper them. I found a document regarding immobilizer so I have some more schematics to go on but haven't looked much at it yet since I've been living in the garage the last week and my GF wanted to see me on a Friday evening :p

Should I go take a picture or do you remember that plug from when you converted that 350?

minim

11-06-2015, 03:03 PM #8

olefejer

GT2559V

197

11-06-2015, 06:17 PM #9

(11-06-2015, 03:03 PM)minim I guess I can go and take one if you need it. It's a 4pin round plug and I figured that the two 2.5mm2 had to be the starter lockout and the two 0.75mm2 had to be reverse light. I'm not so sure the error is in the plug anymore since it didn't help to jumper them. I found a document regarding immobilizer so I have some more schematics to go on but haven't looked much at it yet since I've been living in the garage the last week and my GF wanted to see me on a Friday evening :p

Should I go take a picture or do you remember that plug from when you converted that 350?

On gearbox side try to put the old gearbox in P, then you should messure 0 Ohm on the 2 pin that need to be shorted, and also in N you should messure 0 Ohm,
In any other position you have open circuit.
That should tell you witch 2 wire to short.

1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)

olefejer

11-06-2015, 06:17 PM #9

(11-06-2015, 03:03 PM)minim I guess I can go and take one if you need it. It's a 4pin round plug and I figured that the two 2.5mm2 had to be the starter lockout and the two 0.75mm2 had to be reverse light. I'm not so sure the error is in the plug anymore since it didn't help to jumper them. I found a document regarding immobilizer so I have some more schematics to go on but haven't looked much at it yet since I've been living in the garage the last week and my GF wanted to see me on a Friday evening :p

Should I go take a picture or do you remember that plug from when you converted that 350?

1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)

minim

K26-2

41

11-07-2015, 06:28 AM #10

Now I'm welding new 3" exhaust and I'm soon done with that. Then it's just to fix the gear linkage, wire Ole's controller, create a method to fix the throttle linkage and mount the intercooler and I'm ready for road testing.

minim

11-07-2015, 06:28 AM #10

I've sold the old gearbox and cut off the plug to make it a complete mess :p But someone on pointedthree sent me schematics for my car and then it was a 20second fix. The plug had been apart and then the lead coming from the gearbox was put in the wrong hole again. It is pin 3 and 4 I the contact above the brake booster coming from the gearbox that should be shorted. All good now Smile

Now I'm welding new 3" exhaust and I'm soon done with that. Then it's just to fix the gear linkage, wire Ole's controller, create a method to fix the throttle linkage and mount the intercooler and I'm ready for road testing.

minim

K26-2

41

11-15-2015, 11:49 AM #11

Gwagon is up and running why the 606.962 and the 722.6 transmission and everything is working great Big Grin

today I got a friend to drive some for me and I was messing with the gearbox controller and changing around on the setup.

I can't get my head around the lockup settings. I got one mode where I use lockup from gear 2-5 and one where I only use it in fifth gear. The nice thing about lockup is that it feels like the car works a lot lighter when it get direct contact with the engine. The bad part is that it feels like it has nine gears since it goes 1 -> 2 -> 2 lockup -> 3 -> 3 lockup -> 4 -> 4 lockup -> 5 -> 5 lockup. Wish there was some kind of setup where I could use a time delay on the lockup so it didn't go into lockup when I accelerate through the gears but only when I was staying in a gear. We have a lot of 60km/h and 80km/h limits and for the 60 then 4th gear with lockup is nice and in 80+ the 5th with lockup is good. Should I just drop the whole lockout idea and run it with just lockup in 5thgear?

Any tips regarding setup of this controller in general?

minim

11-15-2015, 11:49 AM #11

Gwagon is up and running why the 606.962 and the 722.6 transmission and everything is working great Big Grin today I got a friend to drive some for me and I was messing with the gearbox controller and changing around on the setup.

I can't get my head around the lockup settings. I got one mode where I use lockup from gear 2-5 and one where I only use it in fifth gear. The nice thing about lockup is that it feels like the car works a lot lighter when it get direct contact with the engine. The bad part is that it feels like it has nine gears since it goes 1 -> 2 -> 2 lockup -> 3 -> 3 lockup -> 4 -> 4 lockup -> 5 -> 5 lockup. Wish there was some kind of setup where I could use a time delay on the lockup so it didn't go into lockup when I accelerate through the gears but only when I was staying in a gear. We have a lot of 60km/h and 80km/h limits and for the 60 then 4th gear with lockup is nice and in 80+ the 5th with lockup is good. Should I just drop the whole lockout idea and run it with just lockup in 5thgear?

Any tips regarding setup of this controller in general?

olefejer

GT2559V

197

11-15-2015, 04:12 PM #12

(11-15-2015, 11:49 AM)minim Gwagon is up and running why the 606.962 and the 722.6 transmission and everything is working great today I got a friend to drive some for me and I was messing with the gearbox controller and changing around on the setup.

I can't get my head around the lockup settings. I got one mode where I use lockup from gear 2-5 and one where I only use it in fifth gear. The nice thing about lockup is that it feels like the car works a lot lighter when it get direct contact with the engine. The bad part is that it feels like it has nine gears since it goes 1 -> 2 -> 2 lockup -> 3 -> 3 lockup -> 4 -> 4 lockup -> 5 -> 5 lockup. Wish there was some kind of setup where I could use a time delay on the lockup so it didn't go into lockup when I accelerate through the gears but only when I was staying in a gear. We have a lot of 60km/h and 80km/h limits and for the 60 then 4th gear with lockup is nice and in 80+ the 5th with lockup is good. Should I just drop the whole lockout idea and run it with just lockup in 5thgear?

Any tips regarding setup of this controller in general?

Just to let you know the possibility of lockup.

Many of them is made from direct request from customers.

"Lockup 2-4 gear  "
0 = No,  (only lockup i 5 gear)
-1 = Like 1 but do not unlock if TPS goes below 10% (only lockup i 5 gear)
1 = Lockup also in 2 - 4 gear, if you put gear lever in position 4 you will have lockup also in 4 gear, this is useful when pulling heavy uphill.
2 = always lockup in 2-5 gear also if the lever is in “D”
3= Like 2 but also no unlock with no throttle.
4= Like 3 but also shifts gear with locked converter, converter only unlocks if below 30 km/h This is only useful at Racetrack :-)
5 = Special only unlock if speed is below 10 Km/h and lock if in “2” and speed > 10, this is a special setting for an Electrical vehicle
6= Lockup over a switch 12V in on (D0 kickdown 12V in), but then you can NOT use kickdown on this input, no soft lockup in this mode as it is for Racing / Drifting
(only from ver_170)
7= Lockup if speed bigger then 30 km/hr and locked under shift And it unlocks if TPS > 75% And it unlocks if speed is < 30 km/h Does "NOT" unlock it TPS < 10%
8= Lockup if speed bigger then 30 km/hr and locked under shift And it unlocks if TPS > 75% And it unlocks if speed is < 30 km/h Does unlock it TPS < 10%
.

1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)

olefejer

11-15-2015, 04:12 PM #12

(11-15-2015, 11:49 AM)minim Gwagon is up and running why the 606.962 and the 722.6 transmission and everything is working great today I got a friend to drive some for me and I was messing with the gearbox controller and changing around on the setup.

I can't get my head around the lockup settings. I got one mode where I use lockup from gear 2-5 and one where I only use it in fifth gear. The nice thing about lockup is that it feels like the car works a lot lighter when it get direct contact with the engine. The bad part is that it feels like it has nine gears since it goes 1 -> 2 -> 2 lockup -> 3 -> 3 lockup -> 4 -> 4 lockup -> 5 -> 5 lockup. Wish there was some kind of setup where I could use a time delay on the lockup so it didn't go into lockup when I accelerate through the gears but only when I was staying in a gear. We have a lot of 60km/h and 80km/h limits and for the 60 then 4th gear with lockup is nice and in 80+ the 5th with lockup is good. Should I just drop the whole lockout idea and run it with just lockup in 5thgear?

Any tips regarding setup of this controller in general?

1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)

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