Rebuilt Turbo, Burning Oil and Self-Loathing
Rebuilt Turbo, Burning Oil and Self-Loathing
11-03-2009, 11:23 PM
#1
I plumbed the ccv with a separator so there isn't much oil coming from there. ... it wasn't this bad before the turbo rebuild, so I am left to wonder.
Can the shaft wear even thought the bearings are brass / copper? I thought I felt sections that were worn, but was uncertain. I had it balanced by a tech and I was hoping he would have mentioned anything suspicious - he did not.
The smoke is blue-ish and smells like burning oil. The engine is drinking it as well. If I follow the car and the driver nails the throttle..... it shows.
Turbo is working very well though.
totaldisaster
11-03-2009, 11:23 PM #1I rebuilt my stock Ta031 Garrett a while back and I think the break-in is over.
I plumbed the ccv with a separator so there isn't much oil coming from there. ... it wasn't this bad before the turbo rebuild, so I am left to wonder.
Can the shaft wear even thought the bearings are brass / copper? I thought I felt sections that were worn, but was uncertain. I had it balanced by a tech and I was hoping he would have mentioned anything suspicious - he did not.
The smoke is blue-ish and smells like burning oil. The engine is drinking it as well. If I follow the car and the driver nails the throttle..... it shows.
Turbo is working very well though.
11-04-2009, 07:55 PM
#2
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
11-04-2009, 07:55 PM #2Make sure the engine is breathing well. When I put it my new turbo I was blowing smoke like crazy until I installed a 240D breather.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
11-05-2009, 02:34 PM
#3
I've been driving with alot of focus on my exhaust and I'm thinking it might not be the turbo anymore... that thing is tight.
When I dropped my head on last year I inspected all the valves and stems and there was some wiggle going on with the exhaust valves, but I thought the new seals would stop most of the oil....
Maybe the valve stem seals have just loosened up a bit? Once the engine is warm.. the majority of the smoke goes away.
totaldisaster
11-05-2009, 02:34 PM #3I think its breathing well... i've collected alot of oil in my catch can.
I've been driving with alot of focus on my exhaust and I'm thinking it might not be the turbo anymore... that thing is tight.
When I dropped my head on last year I inspected all the valves and stems and there was some wiggle going on with the exhaust valves, but I thought the new seals would stop most of the oil....
Maybe the valve stem seals have just loosened up a bit? Once the engine is warm.. the majority of the smoke goes away.
11-05-2009, 02:40 PM
#4
also make sure the oil drain tube is not restricted in any way it has to be a straight drop with no restriction or the back presser! or the oil will force its way past the bearing/seals in the turbo!!!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
11-05-2009, 02:40 PM #4If the guides are too louse they can cause the seals to wear prematurely and fail?
also make sure the oil drain tube is not restricted in any way it has to be a straight drop with no restriction or the back presser! or the oil will force its way past the bearing/seals in the turbo!!!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
11-05-2009, 02:51 PM
#5
Think of all that hot exhaust getting by the guides and reaching the seals.
--the drain is clear, clear clear.. promise.
totaldisaster
11-05-2009, 02:51 PM #5the valve guides do the real sealing. The seals are more of an 'oil scraper'....
Think of all that hot exhaust getting by the guides and reaching the seals.
--the drain is clear, clear clear.. promise.
11-05-2009, 06:16 PM
#6
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
11-05-2009, 06:16 PM #6What is the size of the breather hose?
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
11-06-2009, 09:59 AM
#8
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
11-06-2009, 09:59 AM #8That looks adequate, I was just making sure because I had the same problem with the oil smoke and once I fixed the breather I also gained power.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
11-06-2009, 09:07 PM
#9
that blocked off round part on the later turbo intake elbows is where it went to
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
11-06-2009, 09:07 PM #9on my car it just dumps into the turbo intake no problems yet! that's the way the factory made it on my 1980 300sd that I got the engine out of!
that blocked off round part on the later turbo intake elbows is where it went to
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
11-09-2009, 02:26 PM
#10
This post was last modified: 11-09-2009, 02:26 PM by winmutt.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
FWIW I replaced my valve stem seals this weekend, oil smoke after idle is GONE GONE GONE. I think what is left is my turbo on its way out.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
11-10-2009, 04:02 AM
#11
(11-09-2009, 02:26 PM)winmutt FWIW I replaced my valve stem seals this weekend, oil smoke after idle is GONE GONE GONE. I think what is left is my turbo on its way out.
I hear you, man. Did you happen to wiggle the valve stems while you were in there?
I swear my engine did not smoke like this the first 2k miles after I pulled the head etc..
If it was the turbo, it would be smoking like a banshee at high RPMS / high load, right? It only smokes after sitting at a light, on take-off, and before it gets warmed up... but you can always smell it.
... I guess I should change the title to 'self-loathing'.
totaldisaster
11-10-2009, 04:02 AM #11(11-09-2009, 02:26 PM)winmutt FWIW I replaced my valve stem seals this weekend, oil smoke after idle is GONE GONE GONE. I think what is left is my turbo on its way out.
I hear you, man. Did you happen to wiggle the valve stems while you were in there?
I swear my engine did not smoke like this the first 2k miles after I pulled the head etc..
If it was the turbo, it would be smoking like a banshee at high RPMS / high load, right? It only smokes after sitting at a light, on take-off, and before it gets warmed up... but you can always smell it.
... I guess I should change the title to 'self-loathing'.
11-10-2009, 05:22 PM
#12
(11-10-2009, 04:02 AM)totaldisaster I hear you, man. Did you happen to wiggle the valve stems while you were in there?Yes all #2 were tight and it had only the slightest movement.
(11-10-2009, 04:02 AM)totaldisaster If it was the turbo, it would be smoking like a banshee at high RPMS / high load, right? It only smokes after sitting at a light, on take-off, and before it gets warmed up... but you can always smell it.
Yes it would certainly be more pronounced at high RPMs. Did you replace the valve stem seals? Your description totally describes the valve stem seals. Smoke after long idle and at startup (burning off what seeped in over night). I was really suprised how much of a difference it was at startup because they sit ~1cm off the head.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(11-10-2009, 04:02 AM)totaldisaster I hear you, man. Did you happen to wiggle the valve stems while you were in there?Yes all #2 were tight and it had only the slightest movement.
(11-10-2009, 04:02 AM)totaldisaster If it was the turbo, it would be smoking like a banshee at high RPMS / high load, right? It only smokes after sitting at a light, on take-off, and before it gets warmed up... but you can always smell it.
Yes it would certainly be more pronounced at high RPMs. Did you replace the valve stem seals? Your description totally describes the valve stem seals. Smoke after long idle and at startup (burning off what seeped in over night). I was really suprised how much of a difference it was at startup because they sit ~1cm off the head.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
11-10-2009, 10:43 PM
#13
(11-10-2009, 05:22 PM)winmutt Yes all #2 were tight and it had only the slightest movement.
all my exhaust wiggled, the intakes were pretty solid. I am convinced that new stem seals are not a solution to oil leaks through the valve guides. Its only a temporary patch if there's wiggle room.
Quote:Yes it would certainly be more pronounced at high RPMs. Did you replace the valve stem seals? Your description totally describes the valve stem seals. Smoke after long idle and at startup (burning off what seeped in over night). I was really suprised how much of a difference it was at startup because they sit ~1cm off the head.
I replaced my stem seals 5k miles ago and this amount of oil is a newer development.
glad you agree about the turbo, thanks.
totaldisaster
11-10-2009, 10:43 PM #13(11-10-2009, 05:22 PM)winmutt Yes all #2 were tight and it had only the slightest movement.
all my exhaust wiggled, the intakes were pretty solid. I am convinced that new stem seals are not a solution to oil leaks through the valve guides. Its only a temporary patch if there's wiggle room.
Quote:Yes it would certainly be more pronounced at high RPMs. Did you replace the valve stem seals? Your description totally describes the valve stem seals. Smoke after long idle and at startup (burning off what seeped in over night). I was really suprised how much of a difference it was at startup because they sit ~1cm off the head.
I replaced my stem seals 5k miles ago and this amount of oil is a newer development.
glad you agree about the turbo, thanks.
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