dieselmeken superpump install
dieselmeken superpump install
50harleyrider
12-03-2015, 06:30 AM #1I was watching dieselmeken's utube video about installing and timing his 7.5 M-pump in an OM606.962 and was curious if anyone on here has done it? My question is about the tools needed. It looks like a slotted locking bolt is required and I'm still not sure about the 2 LED timing light he uses? It appears on the video he uses the light to do the fine adjustment. Are these 2 tools available and really necessary? I'm planning to put my superpump and HX-35 on my donor W210 before I start the transplant into my F-150 and want to make sure I have my ducks in a row.
U need a IP locking device;
A timing device/sprocket holder;
The AB light or RIV tool , does not help nothing on doing it. (dificult to explain here what i mean)
To fine tune the timing u need a stroboscopic light device/timing gun that can read the injector pulse, then set timing to read 17/18º at crank puley.
if u dont have access to that do it by listening.
regards
FD,
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hello
U need a IP locking device;
A timing device/sprocket holder;
The AB light or RIV tool , does not help nothing on doing it. (dificult to explain here what i mean)
To fine tune the timing u need a stroboscopic light device/timing gun that can read the injector pulse, then set timing to read 17/18º at crank puley.
if u dont have access to that do it by listening.
regards
FD,
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50harleyrider
12-03-2015, 08:29 AM #3I found the locking device on Amazon. Not sure about the sprocket holder you show. Dieselmeken said it is OK to let sprocket hang after pump removal in video. Can you elaborate on need for it?
Duncansport
12-03-2015, 09:01 AM #4I've never needed the sprocket holder. If you're really worried insert a long screwdriver through the bolt hole to keep it from falling in.
i have done it a couple of times... but belive be its tricky.
with that device u can hold the timing device in place , with the chain stretcher pushing the chain , and even rotating the engine as much as u can. once u have the engine with 14.5º ATDC u lock the pump and slide it in!!!
remember the pump must slide in the timing device , only moderate (hand) force should be needed otherwise u may damage the splines, and after is a hell off a hassle to remove it.
after u have done this , is time to fasten everithing and fire the engine , it should fire if not check that the cams are in the right position.
cams, crank, IP.
once u have the engine running , watch , hear and fine time it!!!
anything just scream.
FD,
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of course u can do it that way, the thing is how do u plan to timme pump, camshafts and crankshaft? probably u can´t hit it at first time!!!
i have done it a couple of times... but belive be its tricky.
with that device u can hold the timing device in place , with the chain stretcher pushing the chain , and even rotating the engine as much as u can. once u have the engine with 14.5º ATDC u lock the pump and slide it in!!!
remember the pump must slide in the timing device , only moderate (hand) force should be needed otherwise u may damage the splines, and after is a hell off a hassle to remove it.
after u have done this , is time to fasten everithing and fire the engine , it should fire if not check that the cams are in the right position.
cams, crank, IP.
once u have the engine running , watch , hear and fine time it!!!
anything just scream.
FD,
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Would be interesting to hear your timing light experience, we did it by ear.
Harley your adapter is in the post by the way. I'll PM your tracking number when I get it.
Beers.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
We cable tied the sprocket in place to stop the chain falling off the crank sprocket, no need or probs not using the cage, just keep tension on the sprocket when you lift the IP out.
Would be interesting to hear your timing light experience, we did it by ear.
Harley your adapter is in the post by the way. I'll PM your tracking number when I get it.
Beers.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
fit it at injector nr one line, at the injector top.
point the light at crank, watch OT. when u can see OT lined up with the pointer, read the numbers in the box ... if 20º injection is delayed , rotate the pump twards engine. if u read 13º pump is too advanced... every engine has his good number but 16/17 is a good starting number....
stock is 16º
FD,
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timing light device, with a pick up that can hear the injector poping,
fit it at injector nr one line, at the injector top.
point the light at crank, watch OT. when u can see OT lined up with the pointer, read the numbers in the box ... if 20º injection is delayed , rotate the pump twards engine. if u read 13º pump is too advanced... every engine has his good number but 16/17 is a good starting number....
stock is 16º
FD,
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Bummer-Bob
09-19-2017, 03:34 PM #9I see everyone saying to set timing around 15-19* ATDC, but my Dieselmeken pump says to set timing to 8-10* ATDC - anyone know why that might be? It's for an OM602, has 7,5mm elements & 90cc of fuel.
One thing is istallation position!!!
Other is dynamic position based on injector opening or other means.
In a stock engine and stock pump installation position is 14.5° ATDC.
LOOKS LIKE FOR THE DIESELMEKEN IS 8 TO 10° ATDC!!! Simple as this.
After this engine should fire and run almost flawless.
Eventhough it is advisable/posible to dynamic time it so it makes best of the new pump. That is done by a stroboscopic light device/timming gun 18/20° BTDC for injector opening.
Hope u're clarified.
Regards
FD,
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No one was saying wrong numbers.
One thing is istallation position!!!
Other is dynamic position based on injector opening or other means.
In a stock engine and stock pump installation position is 14.5° ATDC.
LOOKS LIKE FOR THE DIESELMEKEN IS 8 TO 10° ATDC!!! Simple as this.
After this engine should fire and run almost flawless.
Eventhough it is advisable/posible to dynamic time it so it makes best of the new pump. That is done by a stroboscopic light device/timming gun 18/20° BTDC for injector opening.
Hope u're clarified.
Regards
FD,
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(09-19-2017, 03:34 PM)Bummer-Bob I see everyone saying to set timing around 15-19* ATDC, but my Dieselmeken pump says to set timing to 8-10* ATDC - anyone know why that might be? It's for an OM602, has 7,5mm elements & 90cc of fuel.
My latest Dieselmeken pump is 8-10 ATDC.
Earlier pumps was 15 BTDC.
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Mercedes 190 -92, om605 Stroker 2.75L, Dieselmeken 7,5mm (160cc) EDC with Baldur DSL1 ECU, Garrett GTX3576R A/R 1.06 without WG, SMF, 716.661 (SG-S370/6) Gearbox
(09-19-2017, 03:34 PM)Bummer-Bob I see everyone saying to set timing around 15-19* ATDC, but my Dieselmeken pump says to set timing to 8-10* ATDC - anyone know why that might be? It's for an OM602, has 7,5mm elements & 90cc of fuel.
My latest Dieselmeken pump is 8-10 ATDC.
Earlier pumps was 15 BTDC.
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Mercedes 190 -92, om605 Stroker 2.75L, Dieselmeken 7,5mm (160cc) EDC with Baldur DSL1 ECU, Garrett GTX3576R A/R 1.06 without WG, SMF, 716.661 (SG-S370/6) Gearbox
(09-20-2017, 02:03 AM)barrote LOOKS LIKE FOR THE DIESELMEKEN IS 8 TO 10° ATDC!!! Simple as this.
After this engine should fire and run almost flawless.
(09-20-2017, 02:06 AM)EvoPeter My latest Dieselmeken pump is 8-10 ATDC.
Earlier pumps was 15 BTDC.
Thanks!
Bummer-Bob
09-20-2017, 07:22 PM #12(09-20-2017, 02:03 AM)barrote LOOKS LIKE FOR THE DIESELMEKEN IS 8 TO 10° ATDC!!! Simple as this.
After this engine should fire and run almost flawless.
(09-20-2017, 02:06 AM)EvoPeter My latest Dieselmeken pump is 8-10 ATDC.
Earlier pumps was 15 BTDC.
Thanks!
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