603 idle computer
603 idle computer
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
01-12-2016, 07:30 PM #2I'm curious about this as well...I think the pump can be lightly modified to have ilde mechanically controlled.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
This pump has a ELR electronic idle increase, purpose: is for cold start A/C power incresse, take off aid , night driving, tow take off , ddada and so on ...
the idle speed is regulated in the only bolt coming out the governor , one turn give u more less 200RPM trhe thing is if u change it too much from the 700rpm probably the pump may loose some of the increase ability , or return to idle ability.
a small touch in the idle damper may be needed.
basically if u want to use that, u have to remove the controler from the donnor car , is actuated by coolant temp for cold start , by a/c switch for A/C and by clutch sensor for take off aid.
if u want a direct turn on just feed it with 12 volt dc it will work , limit is 7 volts pwm 10hz , but it handles 12v for short periods of time.
FD,
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hy
This pump has a ELR electronic idle increase, purpose: is for cold start A/C power incresse, take off aid , night driving, tow take off , ddada and so on ...
the idle speed is regulated in the only bolt coming out the governor , one turn give u more less 200RPM trhe thing is if u change it too much from the 700rpm probably the pump may loose some of the increase ability , or return to idle ability.
a small touch in the idle damper may be needed.
basically if u want to use that, u have to remove the controler from the donnor car , is actuated by coolant temp for cold start , by a/c switch for A/C and by clutch sensor for take off aid.
if u want a direct turn on just feed it with 12 volt dc it will work , limit is 7 volts pwm 10hz , but it handles 12v for short periods of time.
FD,
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Kickdown/AC is controlled by a separate ECU which also gets it's current from the OVP.
Or in short: remove all wiring you can from the car and then decide how far you want to integrate it. What I don't know is how kick-down is controlled on the W123 chassis/OM617.
If it's too much hassle, as mentioned, usually a ficed idle works well. I couldn't stall the engine even with too low idle (when the ELR was not yet working)...
So you have a Plan A and a Plan B
DiseaselWeasel
01-13-2016, 01:41 PM #5It's easy to wire in... Take out the complete engine loom, implant - done. I'd make use of the OVP (silver relais with red top and one or two fuses on top), it protects the idle ECU from overvolatage. Just needs ignition switched +12V from the fuse box. There are wiring diagrammes to be found on w124performance.com - it looks complicated at first, but it's simple actually. It'll also generate a TD (RPM) signal for a rev-counter which is handy.
Kickdown/AC is controlled by a separate ECU which also gets it's current from the OVP.
Or in short: remove all wiring you can from the car and then decide how far you want to integrate it. What I don't know is how kick-down is controlled on the W123 chassis/OM617.
If it's too much hassle, as mentioned, usually a ficed idle works well. I couldn't stall the engine even with too low idle (when the ELR was not yet working)... So you have a Plan A and a Plan B
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