what drive shaft on w124 whith 717.404
what drive shaft on w124 whith 717.404
thanks !!!
PedroFerreira
01-10-2016, 12:52 AM #1I have all the parts now to make the conversion,now i just need the drive shaft,some one know what can i use?
thanks !!!
I used crappy steel piping so yeah my fault. ![[Image: B5476F47-2990-44B2-BB9E-8849C08064D6.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/B5476F47-2990-44B2-BB9E-8849C08064D6.jpg)
2) Do the same for the manual (easier as it is out of the car already.
3) Measure from that same place on the trans in the car to the end of the front half of the shaft (may have to remove the spline boot if it is still there.
4) Take the donor driveshaft to a reputable shop and have them modify your donor driveshaft to be the correct dimensions. Do not forget to include the measurements of the flex discs!!
The difference in length between the longer automatic and the shorter manual is how long the front section (the half with internal splines IIRC...it's been a few weeks) of the donor shaft needs to be lengthened. Generally there is also about 20-25mm "play" in the spline engagement on all of the stock MB driveshafts I have pulled (if the rubber boot is already torn on your car, you can measure that as well). You will need about that much to make it possible/easier to install and remove flex discs.
I usually send the driveshaft to the machinist with 2 new flex discs to make balancing easier.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
01-14-2016, 07:01 PM #61) Measure from where the transmission case (bellhousing) and engine mate up to the rear side of the output shaft on the installed automatic transmission. (I usually take the shaft off and measure from the aft (to the back of car) part of the output shaft three prong face by using a ruler or other straight edge to have a good place to measure from)
2) Do the same for the manual (easier as it is out of the car already.
3) Measure from that same place on the trans in the car to the end of the front half of the shaft (may have to remove the spline boot if it is still there.
4) Take the donor driveshaft to a reputable shop and have them modify your donor driveshaft to be the correct dimensions. Do not forget to include the measurements of the flex discs!!
The difference in length between the longer automatic and the shorter manual is how long the front section (the half with internal splines IIRC...it's been a few weeks) of the donor shaft needs to be lengthened. Generally there is also about 20-25mm "play" in the spline engagement on all of the stock MB driveshafts I have pulled (if the rubber boot is already torn on your car, you can measure that as well). You will need about that much to make it possible/easier to install and remove flex discs.
I usually send the driveshaft to the machinist with 2 new flex discs to make balancing easier.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SO:
If you do have access to that 300 24V car, I would grab both front and rear sections of its driveshaft and you're done (unless the dogleg in that car is significantly longer or shorter than the one in the 190).
Another thing that may come up is the output shaft prongs bolt circle diameter (BCD) might be different...
Most 190's are something like 90mm where most 300's are 100mm and the turbo diesels and early V-8s are 110mm (later V-8s and V-12's use the 8 hole 4 prong output and flex disc setup...but still 110mm)
I'd wager that your rear diff likely has a 110mm BCD input (measure from outside of one bushing on the flexdisc to outside of bushing opposite side and then subtract the diameter of one bushing (usually 18mm). That will give you BCD of your rear diff. (i.e. center of one hole to center of hole opposite side of circle) Do the same for the output disc of your trans and see if they are different...
If they are:
maybe you're lucky and the 300e 24v is same as 190e 16v...and the splines in the center match...
if you're not, then you need to make sure that whoever does your custom driveshaft needs to use the proper ends...
final note:
pay attention to the split in the driveshaft at the center support bearing. The factory uses a doube slash mark on one side of the bearing and a single one on the other side to indicate match marks. spin the driveshaft around while it is still in the car to see the marks. they are about 75-100mm away from each other on opposite sides of the bearing/universal joint assembly, but youll see where the single mark lines up between the other two opposite of it...the driveshaft guys should make sure it is installed the same before he balances it.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
01-14-2016, 07:57 PM #7In reading your other thread...it looks like you have access to a 300E 24v...the driveshaft from that would be best... Another issue that you may face is that the smaller 190 series cars usually have smaller diameter splines on their driveshafts...so in the middle where the center supprt bearing is the front and rear halves will probably NOT be compatible between 190 and 300 cars.
SO:
If you do have access to that 300 24V car, I would grab both front and rear sections of its driveshaft and you're done (unless the dogleg in that car is significantly longer or shorter than the one in the 190).
Another thing that may come up is the output shaft prongs bolt circle diameter (BCD) might be different...
Most 190's are something like 90mm where most 300's are 100mm and the turbo diesels and early V-8s are 110mm (later V-8s and V-12's use the 8 hole 4 prong output and flex disc setup...but still 110mm)
I'd wager that your rear diff likely has a 110mm BCD input (measure from outside of one bushing on the flexdisc to outside of bushing opposite side and then subtract the diameter of one bushing (usually 18mm). That will give you BCD of your rear diff. (i.e. center of one hole to center of hole opposite side of circle) Do the same for the output disc of your trans and see if they are different...
If they are:
maybe you're lucky and the 300e 24v is same as 190e 16v...and the splines in the center match...
if you're not, then you need to make sure that whoever does your custom driveshaft needs to use the proper ends...
final note:
pay attention to the split in the driveshaft at the center support bearing. The factory uses a doube slash mark on one side of the bearing and a single one on the other side to indicate match marks. spin the driveshaft around while it is still in the car to see the marks. they are about 75-100mm away from each other on opposite sides of the bearing/universal joint assembly, but youll see where the single mark lines up between the other two opposite of it...the driveshaft guys should make sure it is installed the same before he balances it.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
On my OM603 powered W124 I have a manual trans and front DS half out of a 190e 2.6 and the rear DS half from a 300E 2.6 (aka 260e) as well as the smaller differential input flange. No welding required and it all bolts up.
![[Image: 208104.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/208104.png)
On all W124s and W201s certain measurements are standardized. So the distance between the bell housing mating surface and the center support bearing is exactly the same on ALL W124s and W201s. Then the distance between the center support bearing and the differential is determined by the wheel base. So an automatic rear drive shaft half will work on a manual conversion and vice versa. In your case the 2.3-16 front drive shaft half will fit in the W124. Next measure the spline at the center support bearing. There are 2 sizes, 25mm and 35mm (not sure about second number, its been a while. The 25mm was used on all W201s and all 4cyl W124s and W124s with M103 2.6L engine. 3.0L engines and up got the 35mm spline. So in your case you'll need a 300E 2.6 rear drive shaft half to mate up to the 16v front driveshaft half. Also depending on what engine the W124 had originally you might have to swap out the differential input flange to match the 2.6 driveshaft.
On my OM603 powered W124 I have a manual trans and front DS half out of a 190e 2.6 and the rear DS half from a 300E 2.6 (aka 260e) as well as the smaller differential input flange. No welding required and it all bolts up.
I was not 100% sure about the correct front halfs and center section splines...
I wanted to use the bigger 110mm flex discs on my conversion so I did a bunch of custom stuff...but all of the above seems correct to me. I must have pulled about 15 cars worth of driveshafts to find something that would be 100% for my particular needs...and finally decided to just go full custom. Anyway, good luck on your upgrade!
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
01-18-2016, 07:35 PM #9^^this...
I was not 100% sure about the correct front halfs and center section splines...
I wanted to use the bigger 110mm flex discs on my conversion so I did a bunch of custom stuff...but all of the above seems correct to me. I must have pulled about 15 cars worth of driveshafts to find something that would be 100% for my particular needs...and finally decided to just go full custom. Anyway, good luck on your upgrade!
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
(01-18-2016, 07:35 PM)SurfRodder ^^this...
I was not 100% sure about the correct front halfs and center section splines...
I wanted to use the bigger 110mm flex discs on my conversion so I did a bunch of custom stuff...but all of the above seems correct to me. I must have pulled about 15 cars worth of driveshafts to find something that would be 100% for my particular needs...and finally decided to just go full custom. Anyway, good luck on your upgrade!
What drive shaft shop did you end up using? I think a 1994-5 e320 rear half will bolt up to my new setup, but it is hard to find one anywhere.
atypicalguy
11-11-2019, 12:42 AM #10(01-18-2016, 07:35 PM)SurfRodder ^^this...
I was not 100% sure about the correct front halfs and center section splines...
I wanted to use the bigger 110mm flex discs on my conversion so I did a bunch of custom stuff...but all of the above seems correct to me. I must have pulled about 15 cars worth of driveshafts to find something that would be 100% for my particular needs...and finally decided to just go full custom. Anyway, good luck on your upgrade!
What drive shaft shop did you end up using? I think a 1994-5 e320 rear half will bolt up to my new setup, but it is hard to find one anywhere.
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