STD Tuning Drivetrain Output Flange Removal

Output Flange Removal

Output Flange Removal

 
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
 
matfield
GT2256V

104
03-01-2016, 03:27 PM #1
Hi Guys,

I need to remove the 3 bolt output flange from the back of my 722.6. 

Is there anything I need to be aware of before I start? I have the 32mm deep multipoint socket, but is there a specific technique to getting it off, or can I just whip off the retaining nut, and pull out the flange?

Thanks in advance

Mat
matfield
03-01-2016, 03:27 PM #1

Hi Guys,

I need to remove the 3 bolt output flange from the back of my 722.6. 

Is there anything I need to be aware of before I start? I have the 32mm deep multipoint socket, but is there a specific technique to getting it off, or can I just whip off the retaining nut, and pull out the flange?

Thanks in advance

Mat

Sultzi
GT2256V

102
03-01-2016, 03:35 PM #2
Just open it and should come off easily by hand. I have just torqued them back down with big airgun. But correct tightening torque is 120nm or 88.5 Ft. lbs.
Sultzi
03-01-2016, 03:35 PM #2

Just open it and should come off easily by hand. I have just torqued them back down with big airgun. But correct tightening torque is 120nm or 88.5 Ft. lbs.

SurfRodder
Jackass Extraordinaire

611
03-01-2016, 10:34 PM #3
I find it helps to use a chisel or punch to tap open the inside end of the nut that is chiseled into the recess on the end of the output shaft...it is a little difficult to do with the trans still in the car, but usually makes it a bit better to get the nut off. It WILL come off with a big cheater (or impact) if you don't do it, but it is MUCH easier (and less likely to round off that 12pt nut) to tap open the "lock tab" out of the groove/recess first.

W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62
SurfRodder
03-01-2016, 10:34 PM #3

I find it helps to use a chisel or punch to tap open the inside end of the nut that is chiseled into the recess on the end of the output shaft...it is a little difficult to do with the trans still in the car, but usually makes it a bit better to get the nut off. It WILL come off with a big cheater (or impact) if you don't do it, but it is MUCH easier (and less likely to round off that 12pt nut) to tap open the "lock tab" out of the groove/recess first.


W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62

SurfRodder
Jackass Extraordinaire

611
03-02-2016, 02:43 PM #4
I use a chisel or punch to push the little tab / ear on the nut out of the notch on the end of the output shaft.  It makes removal of the nut a LOT easier and reduces the possibility that it will round off the corners.  Once you reinstall and torque the nut, use a chisel to smash the end of the nut into the notch and lock it in place.  I try to use a new nut on my cars, but have gotten by for a few thousand miles without issue before on an old one.

It can be removed with a big cheater, an impact, or star torque from your arm, but IMO its not worth the risk of damaging that nut unless you have to.  (I've done at least a dozen in the part yards when it was less important to succeed and only messed one up tho)

W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62
SurfRodder
03-02-2016, 02:43 PM #4

I use a chisel or punch to push the little tab / ear on the nut out of the notch on the end of the output shaft.  It makes removal of the nut a LOT easier and reduces the possibility that it will round off the corners.  Once you reinstall and torque the nut, use a chisel to smash the end of the nut into the notch and lock it in place.  I try to use a new nut on my cars, but have gotten by for a few thousand miles without issue before on an old one.

It can be removed with a big cheater, an impact, or star torque from your arm, but IMO its not worth the risk of damaging that nut unless you have to.  (I've done at least a dozen in the part yards when it was less important to succeed and only messed one up tho)


W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62

matfield
GT2256V

104
03-07-2016, 10:20 AM #5
Thanks for the replies.

Does anyone have a part number for the nut?

Thanks

Mat
matfield
03-07-2016, 10:20 AM #5

Thanks for the replies.

Does anyone have a part number for the nut?

Thanks

Mat

Sultzi
GT2256V

102
03-07-2016, 02:08 PM #6
1239900060 Smile
Sultzi
03-07-2016, 02:08 PM #6

1239900060 Smile

Hario'
C300TD Wagon (W202)

894
11-01-2016, 12:58 PM #7
(03-01-2016, 03:27 PM)matfield Hi Guys,

I need to remove the 3 bolt output flange from the back of my 722.6. 

Is there anything I need to be aware of before I start? I have the 32mm deep multipoint socket, but is there a specific technique to getting it off, or can I just whip off the retaining nut, and pull out the flange?

Thanks in advance

Mat

Hi mate can you confirm it's a 32mm socket needed?

I'm removing mine and my info says 30mm!

Thanks, H.




Installed:

OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. 
[/i]
Hario'
11-01-2016, 12:58 PM #7

(03-01-2016, 03:27 PM)matfield Hi Guys,

I need to remove the 3 bolt output flange from the back of my 722.6. 

Is there anything I need to be aware of before I start? I have the 32mm deep multipoint socket, but is there a specific technique to getting it off, or can I just whip off the retaining nut, and pull out the flange?

Thanks in advance

Mat

Hi mate can you confirm it's a 32mm socket needed?

I'm removing mine and my info says 30mm!

Thanks, H.





Installed:

OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. 
[/i]

matfield
GT2256V

104
11-01-2016, 02:07 PM #8
No, your info is correct, it's a 30mm multipoint (12 sided not 6) deep socket(to get over the locating lug for the prop shaft)

Mat
matfield
11-01-2016, 02:07 PM #8

No, your info is correct, it's a 30mm multipoint (12 sided not 6) deep socket(to get over the locating lug for the prop shaft)

Mat

 
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
Users browsing this thread:
 5 Guest(s)
Users browsing this thread:
 5 Guest(s)