Diy egr block off advice
Diy egr block off advice
02-28-2016, 05:37 PM
#1
1984 300d 132k restormod project in the works
1985 300td 300k $600 off road adventure project
1999 land cruiser 235k, 33" mud tires, off road, towing, hauler
I am planning on blocking off the egr on my 1984 300d by making my own plates. Do I just need to cut a piece of aluminum info shape, drill the holes, and rtv a gasket or is it more involved? Any advice is appreciated including where to buy a prepaid kit because I looked but could not find one. Thanks.
1984 300d 132k restormod project in the works
1985 300td 300k $600 off road adventure project
1999 land cruiser 235k, 33" mud tires, off road, towing, hauler
02-28-2016, 06:42 PM
#2
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...e-kit.html
Cash only as I recall.
Contact Rollguy.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...e-kit.html
Cash only as I recall.
02-28-2016, 07:02 PM
#3
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
It is as simple as what you described for the intake. For the exhaust I cut the stock flex pipe and has a friend tig weld a washer on it and just clamped it back onto the manifold. It also makes a good port for exhaust backpressure if you are interested in performance
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
02-28-2016, 07:14 PM
#4
(02-28-2016, 05:37 PM)Dark Hawk I am planning on blocking off the egr on my 1984 300d by making my own plates. Do I just need to cut a piece of aluminum info shape, drill the holes, and rtv a gasket or is it more involved? Any advice is appreciated including where to buy a prepaid kit because I looked but could not find one. Thanks.
I've got a manifold I could sell you with the EGR blocked. It also has been ceramic coated. PM me if you are interested.
This post was last modified: 02-28-2016, 07:16 PM by Torkey.
(02-28-2016, 05:37 PM)Dark Hawk I am planning on blocking off the egr on my 1984 300d by making my own plates. Do I just need to cut a piece of aluminum info shape, drill the holes, and rtv a gasket or is it more involved? Any advice is appreciated including where to buy a prepaid kit because I looked but could not find one. Thanks.
I've got a manifold I could sell you with the EGR blocked. It also has been ceramic coated. PM me if you are interested.
02-28-2016, 07:46 PM
#5
(02-28-2016, 05:37 PM)Dark Hawk I am planning on blocking off the egr on my 1984 300d by making my own plates. Do I just need to cut a piece of aluminum info shape, drill the holes, and rtv a gasket or is it more involved? Any advice is appreciated including where to buy a prepaid kit because I looked but could not find one. Thanks.
Intake is just a plate bolted on and silicon as stated already. I tap the exhaust port to a pipe thread and screw in a pipe plug in. Also you can also drill and tap the pipe plug for a EGT temp sender.
(02-28-2016, 05:37 PM)Dark Hawk I am planning on blocking off the egr on my 1984 300d by making my own plates. Do I just need to cut a piece of aluminum info shape, drill the holes, and rtv a gasket or is it more involved? Any advice is appreciated including where to buy a prepaid kit because I looked but could not find one. Thanks.
Intake is just a plate bolted on and silicon as stated already. I tap the exhaust port to a pipe thread and screw in a pipe plug in. Also you can also drill and tap the pipe plug for a EGT temp sender.
02-29-2016, 01:06 AM
#6
As for the tig method, if only I could afford a tig welder
love tig welding.I will pm that guy over on peachparts, thanks for the link.
For the threaded pipe method, I like this one too and is more tangible and I really like egt temp tap idea, that's clever, easy, and clean way to do it. What size tap do I need? I don't want to buy a whole set being that I don't have much use for them and it is kind of hard to figure it out without a set on hand in my limited experience with taps.
As for the manifold, I might be interested if it's ported and polished. Otherwise I'll pass, but thanks for the offer.
Thanks for all the great responses, I appreciate it.
1984 300d 132k restormod project in the works
1985 300td 300k $600 off road adventure project
1999 land cruiser 235k, 33" mud tires, off road, towing, hauler
Thanks for all the good advice! I like the variety of responses.
As for the tig method, if only I could afford a tig welder love tig welding.
I will pm that guy over on peachparts, thanks for the link.
For the threaded pipe method, I like this one too and is more tangible and I really like egt temp tap idea, that's clever, easy, and clean way to do it. What size tap do I need? I don't want to buy a whole set being that I don't have much use for them and it is kind of hard to figure it out without a set on hand in my limited experience with taps.
As for the manifold, I might be interested if it's ported and polished. Otherwise I'll pass, but thanks for the offer.
Thanks for all the great responses, I appreciate it.
1984 300d 132k restormod project in the works
1985 300td 300k $600 off road adventure project
1999 land cruiser 235k, 33" mud tires, off road, towing, hauler
02-29-2016, 10:00 PM
#9
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
It's not a good location for the egt sensor as it is not in the mainstream exhaust.i guess it might be better than nothing, but the way I look at it is if I'm going to spend $100+ on a egt guard I'm gonna put in it the right spot haha
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
03-01-2016, 06:55 AM
#10
1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans
1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now
I'm more interested in the thread the EGR hole with a plug, but who knows the size? Agree, gauge close to turbo
1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans
1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now
03-01-2016, 11:38 AM
#11
(02-29-2016, 01:06 AM)Dark Hawk Thanks for all the good advice! I like the variety of responses.
As for the tig method, if only I could afford a tig welder
I will pm that guy over on peachparts, thanks for the link.
For the threaded pipe method, I like this one too and is more tangible and I really like egt temp tap idea, that's clever, easy, and clean way to do it. What size tap do I need? I don't want to buy a whole set being that I don't have much use for them and it is kind of hard to figure it out without a set on hand in my limited experience with taps.
As for the manifold, I might be interested if it's ported and polished. Otherwise I'll pass, but thanks for the offer.
Thanks for all the great responses, I appreciate it.
Best place to mount an EGT pyrometer probe is right before the turbo in the middle of the exhaust stream to get accurate temps.
A blocked-off EGR port does make an excellent place to mount an probe to monitor exhaust pressure.
The tap needed depends on the probe you use. Ceramic coating is nice. Porting is probably not needed. For a clean look nothing beats an early non-EGR manifold setup.
My 78 W116 300SD came with non-EGR exhaust and non-EGR intake manifolds.
Installed the spare ceramic coated exhaust manifold back in 2014 (more photos and write up in link on post 46 and 47).
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...300sd.html
Just sold my original non-EGR exhaust manifold to a forum member.
Still have the original non-EGR intake manifold (log-style) mounted on the car.
That intake manifold will be available for purchase later (cheap).
Next step, preparing and installing the W115 long runner intake to allow for an intercooler and piping.
Intercooler and piping to come after new Dieselmeken 7.5 mm elements for MW pumps are available.
(Coming in a few months as per his 2-23-2016 Facebook post
). Sorry about the large photos. Click on them, then select 'Open image in new tab' to see a more manageably sized photo.
Attached Files
Image(s)(02-29-2016, 01:06 AM)Dark Hawk Thanks for all the good advice! I like the variety of responses.
As for the tig method, if only I could afford a tig welder
I will pm that guy over on peachparts, thanks for the link.
For the threaded pipe method, I like this one too and is more tangible and I really like egt temp tap idea, that's clever, easy, and clean way to do it. What size tap do I need? I don't want to buy a whole set being that I don't have much use for them and it is kind of hard to figure it out without a set on hand in my limited experience with taps.
As for the manifold, I might be interested if it's ported and polished. Otherwise I'll pass, but thanks for the offer.
Thanks for all the great responses, I appreciate it.
Best place to mount an EGT pyrometer probe is right before the turbo in the middle of the exhaust stream to get accurate temps.
A blocked-off EGR port does make an excellent place to mount an probe to monitor exhaust pressure.
The tap needed depends on the probe you use. Ceramic coating is nice. Porting is probably not needed. For a clean look nothing beats an early non-EGR manifold setup.
My 78 W116 300SD came with non-EGR exhaust and non-EGR intake manifolds.
Installed the spare ceramic coated exhaust manifold back in 2014 (more photos and write up in link on post 46 and 47).
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...300sd.html
Just sold my original non-EGR exhaust manifold to a forum member.
Still have the original non-EGR intake manifold (log-style) mounted on the car.
That intake manifold will be available for purchase later (cheap).
Next step, preparing and installing the W115 long runner intake to allow for an intercooler and piping.
Intercooler and piping to come after new Dieselmeken 7.5 mm elements for MW pumps are available.
(Coming in a few months as per his 2-23-2016 Facebook post
). Sorry about the large photos. Click on them, then select 'Open image in new tab' to see a more manageably sized photo.
Attached Files
Image(s)
03-01-2016, 01:12 PM
#12
The way I block off the exhaust side is completely cut the egr port off of the Manifold and weld the port shut, because if you are planning on going with a larger turbo the intake will hit the egr port. Plus it looks nice
This post was last modified: 03-01-2016, 01:16 PM by MFSuper90.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
I have a complete P&P head and manifold set that I would think about letting go. I would even block off both egr ports for you.
The way I block off the exhaust side is completely cut the egr port off of the Manifold and weld the port shut, because if you are planning on going with a larger turbo the intake will hit the egr port. Plus it looks nice
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
03-02-2016, 08:06 PM
#13
(02-29-2016, 01:06 AM)Dark Hawk Thanks for all the good advice! I like the variety of responses.
As for the tig method, if only I could afford a tig welder
I will pm that guy over on peachparts, thanks for the link.
For the threaded pipe method, I like this one too and is more tangible and I really like egt temp tap idea, that's clever, easy, and clean way to do it. What size tap do I need? I don't want to buy a whole set being that I don't have much use for them and it is kind of hard to figure it out without a set on hand in my limited experience with taps.
As for the manifold, I might be interested if it's ported and polished. Otherwise I'll pass, but thanks for the offer.
Thanks for all the great responses, I appreciate it.
I used a 3/4" pipe tap, the castings vary some so you may have to take a die grinder and round out the hole for the tap. It doesn't seem to affect the temperature very much in that location.
The problem is that the sender probe is long and doesn't fit well anywhere else.
(02-29-2016, 01:06 AM)Dark Hawk Thanks for all the good advice! I like the variety of responses.
As for the tig method, if only I could afford a tig welder
I will pm that guy over on peachparts, thanks for the link.
For the threaded pipe method, I like this one too and is more tangible and I really like egt temp tap idea, that's clever, easy, and clean way to do it. What size tap do I need? I don't want to buy a whole set being that I don't have much use for them and it is kind of hard to figure it out without a set on hand in my limited experience with taps.
As for the manifold, I might be interested if it's ported and polished. Otherwise I'll pass, but thanks for the offer.
Thanks for all the great responses, I appreciate it.
I used a 3/4" pipe tap, the castings vary some so you may have to take a die grinder and round out the hole for the tap. It doesn't seem to affect the temperature very much in that location.
The problem is that the sender probe is long and doesn't fit well anywhere else.
03-05-2016, 03:15 PM
#14
1984 300d 132k restormod project in the works
1985 300td 300k $600 off road adventure project
1999 land cruiser 235k, 33" mud tires, off road, towing, hauler
I'm just going to fab up my own kit and save a few bucks. I'll get around to it once I order my egt gauge.
1984 300d 132k restormod project in the works
1985 300td 300k $600 off road adventure project
1999 land cruiser 235k, 33" mud tires, off road, towing, hauler
03-05-2016, 08:57 PM
#15
http://imgur.com/E9SVNb7
AlpinaM30B35
03-05-2016, 08:57 PM #15For the 603 manifold a dorman 21mm freeze plug works perfectly to plug the EGR hole
http://imgur.com/E9SVNb7
03-06-2016, 06:03 PM
#16
For the EGR, just unplug it-it looks like crap that way but doesn't cost anything
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
03-06-2016, 06:03 PM #16Good advice here on EGT probe, has to be in the path of the fire.
For the EGR, just unplug it-it looks like crap that way but doesn't cost anything
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
03-07-2016, 04:55 PM
#18
1984 300d 132k restormod project in the works
1985 300td 300k $600 off road adventure project
1999 land cruiser 235k, 33" mud tires, off road, towing, hauler
Wait what material is the factory header, iron? If it's steel I could just weld a plate over the exhaust portion.
1984 300d 132k restormod project in the works
1985 300td 300k $600 off road adventure project
1999 land cruiser 235k, 33" mud tires, off road, towing, hauler
03-07-2016, 06:59 PM
#19
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
03-08-2016, 06:34 PM
#20
(03-07-2016, 06:59 PM)MFSuper90 It's cast iron. I've successfully MIG welded cast several times, or you can braze it.
x2 it's good metal, just preheat the crap out of it(charcoal grill), weld it, then put it back on the grill with the lid closed and let it cool down over several hours the first time.
Also hammer the weld right after you zap it.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
03-08-2016, 06:34 PM #20(03-07-2016, 06:59 PM)MFSuper90 It's cast iron. I've successfully MIG welded cast several times, or you can braze it.
x2 it's good metal, just preheat the crap out of it(charcoal grill), weld it, then put it back on the grill with the lid closed and let it cool down over several hours the first time.
Also hammer the weld right after you zap it.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
03-09-2016, 11:28 AM
#21
Worked great
AlpinaM30B35
03-09-2016, 11:28 AM #21I welded the euro 603 cast exhaust elbow to a 2.5" stainless v band without issue. Prepped it well, minimal preheat, 1/8 sharpened 2% thoriated, #7 gas lens at 12CFH, 309 filler
Worked great
04-13-2016, 09:18 AM
#22
I have the exhaust porting bandaided for now, until I get a pipe tape and die which seems to be the best option for what I want to do.
1984 300d 132k restormod project in the works
1985 300td 300k $600 off road adventure project
1999 land cruiser 235k, 33" mud tires, off road, towing, hauler
Made it! The intake manifold block off is a bit ugly but seems to function fine, I'll know for sure once my boost gauge is installed which I'll do later today. I made it like I said it would in my first post in this thread.
I have the exhaust porting bandaided for now, until I get a pipe tape and die which seems to be the best option for what I want to do.
1984 300d 132k restormod project in the works
1985 300td 300k $600 off road adventure project
1999 land cruiser 235k, 33" mud tires, off road, towing, hauler
Users browsing this thread:
9 Guest(s)
9 Guest(s)
Users browsing this thread:
9 Guest(s)
9 Guest(s)