606 conversion questions
606 conversion questions
Hi Lads,
I'm in the middle of putting a 606 into my Defender 110, and after today its looking like its going to be a lot easier then originally thought!
I have a few questions:
What is the stock boost pressure the 606 runs at?
I currently have a Stainless 2.5" exhaust with Powerflow muffler. There is aprox 1 metre of pipe between the turbo and muffler. What would the disadvantages be of running a 3" downpipe into the 2.5" muffler and rear section, as opposed to running a full 3" exhaust with muffler?
Is there an in tank lift pump in a W210 or is the fuel system all located in the engine compartment? What kind of fuel pressure is required for standard 177bhp tuning?
Thanks
Mat
Nice project Matt!
I'm currently putting the same engine into my 130. May I ask what chassis that is?
Mine was originally a V8 and it looks as though the chassis mounts are way too far forward.
What is your plan ref. injection pump? Are you going manual pump or keeping the electronic control?
Cheers
Sam
It's a 200tdi chassis, and I'm sticking with the electronic pump, and Baldur's ECU. I'm also sticking with the 722.6 and Ole Fejer's gearbox controller as well, they are both amazing pieces of engineering, and the fine tuning that's possible with the software is brilliant!
(02-29-2016, 05:58 AM)matfield It's a 200tdi chassis, and I'm sticking with the electronic pump, and Baldur's ECU. I'm also sticking with the 722.6 and Ole Fejer's gearbox controller as well, they are both amazing pieces of engineering, and the fine tuning that's possible with the software is brilliant!
(02-29-2016, 05:58 AM)matfield It's a 200tdi chassis, and I'm sticking with the electronic pump, and Baldur's ECU. I'm also sticking with the 722.6 and Ole Fejer's gearbox controller as well, they are both amazing pieces of engineering, and the fine tuning that's possible with the software is brilliant!
Wow-sounds similar to my F150 conversion. Have you checked oil pan to differential clearance? Looks like you have from the photo. Are you planning a divorced Tcase setup? (hopefully your Defender already has one). You'll need to if you plan on using a 2wd 722.6. I'm using the stock w210 722.6 2wd tranny and a Ford NP205 (all gears no chain) divorced Tcase setup with driver's side drop to match my front diff location. I've got a Dieselmeken 7.5 M-pump but at first thanks to Baldur's ecu, I'm gonna stick with the stock or something similar turbo and the stock E-pump. Should be able to easily get 200HP and still get great fuel mileage. Put a fat Viton fuel line from the tank and you'll be fine with no lift pump and compatible with biodiesel. The IP supply pump should be sufficient. I've run up to 180 hp with 1.9 tdi engines without any lift pump. Green beers!!
Hi 50harleyrider,
I was planning on doing a divorced transfer case, but the 722.6 is only 115mm from the mating face of the transfer case. I've removed the rear mount from the auto box and I plan on removing the 3 bolt flange from the back of the 722.6, machining it down and welding the a Land Rover flange to end, to use an input adapter for the transfer case.
Then I'm going to make an adapter to use the rear mount face of the 722.6, where the factory mount would be, and use the Land Rover gearbox mount, and bolt it up to the transfer case as the Land Rover gear box would. Once its all tightened up, and the adapter I make is strong enough, we should be all good.
The plan is to have the 722.6 mate up in such a way, that if I ever have to change the gearbox, or want to upgrade to the 580NM variant, I can just unbolt, remove what was the 3 bolt flange, and reconnect to the new gearbox.
So you're actually 'marrying' a 'divorced' setup? Nothing like 'unholy' matrimony! Get some more photos up here. I guess you are eliminating any differential longitudinal movements between the tcase and tranny so no slip splines required? Don't forget to consider the same longitudinal movements through the engine mounts which could be an issue if you lock the tranny/tcase tight to the frame. Cheers and St Patty's green beers!
So you're actually 'marrying' a 'divorced' setup? Nothing like 'unholy' matrimony! Get some more photos up here. I guess you are eliminating any differential longitudinal movements between the tcase and tranny so no slip splines required? Don't forget to consider the same longitudinal movements through the engine mounts which could be a vibration/binding issue if you lock the tranny/tcase tight to the frame. Cheers and St Patty's green beers!
The standard lift pump is mechanically driven by the IP, I don't think syphon fuel feed is good for power, doesn't the 200tdi use a tank lift pump?
My 606 peaks at 19psi stock fyi.
The 200tdi has an engine mounted lift pump. I've no problem getting a stand alone electric fuel pump, and running a new feed to it if required.
I am going to be going with a "married" transfer box set up. I've just had a very interesting conversation with a man in a shed about the same, and it's looking very promising!
Ill start a project thread soon
(03-01-2016, 11:35 AM)baldur I have run 1.5 bar on the stock OM606 turbo, works okay but it chokes around 4500 revs.Baldur, Are you still good with starting our conversions with your ecu and the stock turbo and E-Pump? The OP seems to be thinking like me and I can live with 4500 max for now. I'll be ordering my ecu soon as I am seriously extracting the mechanicals/wiring out of the donor w210 now.
(03-01-2016, 11:35 AM)baldur I have run 1.5 bar on the stock OM606 turbo, works okay but it chokes around 4500 revs.Baldur, Are you still good with starting our conversions with your ecu and the stock turbo and E-Pump? The OP seems to be thinking like me and I can live with 4500 max for now. I'll be ordering my ecu soon as I am seriously extracting the mechanicals/wiring out of the donor w210 now.
Good spooling, approx 200-250bhp and max of 4500 rpm sounds fine for my needs at the moment. Once I figure out the optimal turbo set up for a fast spooling 300bhp then it will change - but the stock KKK turbo should be good for a while I hope!
(03-02-2016, 06:06 AM)50harleyrider(03-01-2016, 11:35 AM)baldur I have run 1.5 bar on the stock OM606 turbo, works okay but it chokes around 4500 revs.Baldur, Are you still good with starting our conversions with your ecu and the stock turbo and E-Pump? The OP seems to be thinking like me and I can live with 4500 max for now. I'll be ordering my ecu soon as I am seriously extracting the mechanicals/wiring out of the donor w210 now.
(03-02-2016, 06:06 AM)50harleyrider(03-01-2016, 11:35 AM)baldur I have run 1.5 bar on the stock OM606 turbo, works okay but it chokes around 4500 revs.Baldur, Are you still good with starting our conversions with your ecu and the stock turbo and E-Pump? The OP seems to be thinking like me and I can live with 4500 max for now. I'll be ordering my ecu soon as I am seriously extracting the mechanicals/wiring out of the donor w210 now.
(03-09-2016, 04:57 AM)fire-host Divorced set-up.
(03-09-2016, 04:57 AM)fire-host Divorced set-up.
(03-09-2016, 05:03 AM)matfield That's good news re the PAS pump. I still have to take the pump apart to remove the SLS portion so I'll have a look at the spring anyway
How did you find the alternator sat in relation to the steering box?
(03-09-2016, 05:03 AM)matfield That's good news re the PAS pump. I still have to take the pump apart to remove the SLS portion so I'll have a look at the spring anyway
How did you find the alternator sat in relation to the steering box?
(03-09-2016, 07:48 AM)matfield Yeah, it won't fit there either, too close to the chassis, and the belt routing would be an issue.
Might be able to use a 300tdi alternator and a Subaru bolt through tensioner/idler pulley
(03-09-2016, 07:48 AM)matfield Yeah, it won't fit there either, too close to the chassis, and the belt routing would be an issue.
Might be able to use a 300tdi alternator and a Subaru bolt through tensioner/idler pulley
(03-09-2016, 08:30 AM)fire-host Can see the alternator in its Merc OEM position here. All fine!
(03-09-2016, 08:30 AM)fire-host Can see the alternator in its Merc OEM position here. All fine!
I think it depends on what your original engine was, what transmission tunnel and bulkhead you have, and where the engine mounts are.
I have a galvanised chassis, so the original engine mounts are my reference point, as I'm not about to go cutting and welding the sealed chassis.
I think with the right engine mounts and bushes the alternator should work. I know I have about 4 inches I can come up at before I start to interfere with bonnets and transmission tunnels so we'll see what happens.
Thanks for the replies!