M Class 722.6 and 7G-tronic Output splines
M Class 722.6 and 7G-tronic Output splines
I want to get a scrap ML transfer case to strip for the input spline that matches my 722.6. A cheap transfercase has come up on ebay but its slightly different and comes from a car that was fitted with a 7G. Is the spline the same on the input of them?
Thanks in advance
Wondering if any of you knowledgeable people know much about the M class gearbox/transfer boxes?
I want to get a scrap ML transfer case to strip for the input spline that matches my 722.6. A cheap transfercase has come up on ebay but its slightly different and comes from a car that was fitted with a 7G. Is the spline the same on the input of them?
Thanks in advance
IIRC you post on LR4x4 too. You will be mating a 722.6 to a LT230?
I'm mating the 722.6 to a Volvo transfer case. I had done it remotely leaving the doughnut, but i am looking at a direct connection to shorten it. I discovered that ML cases have the flange on the rear, and so am looking to make an adaptor plate.
Hence i found this thread while searching for info. If we can find the spline spec, it can be ordered. Without having to cannibalise a box.
HI Ross, are you doing what i'm doing....
IIRC you post on LR4x4 too. You will be mating a 722.6 to a LT230?
I'm mating the 722.6 to a Volvo transfer case. I had done it remotely leaving the doughnut, but i am looking at a direct connection to shorten it. I discovered that ML cases have the flange on the rear, and so am looking to make an adaptor plate.
Hence i found this thread while searching for info. If we can find the spline spec, it can be ordered. Without having to cannibalise a box.
(03-11-2016, 10:54 AM)ho55 HI Ross, are you doing what i'm doing....
IIRC you post on LR4x4 too. You will be mating a 722.6 to a LT230?
I'm mating the 722.6 to a Volvo transfer case. I had done it remotely leaving the doughnut, but i am looking at a direct connection to shorten it. I discovered that ML cases have the flange on the rear, and so am looking to make an adaptor plate.
Hence i found this thread while searching for info. If we can find the spline spec, it can be ordered. Without having to cannibalise a box.
I am on LR4x4.... as landroversforever, and I'm following your build thread
.I'm joining the LT230 to the ML autobox with this:
![[Image: B9AE7D18-2B0A-427B-B79B-236A945AD756_zpsroi2ybwm.jpg]](http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/qq112/landroversforever/B9AE7D18-2B0A-427B-B79B-236A945AD756_zpsroi2ybwm.jpg)
The plate on the LT230 I've made already, the black bit is the ML side which is a 3D printed mock up at the moment.
I've started machining it and it currently looks like this:
![[Image: C9A86DEE-B5E6-422C-BFE0-6743C19BC6ED_zpsq5gkcd8f.jpg]](http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/qq112/landroversforever/C9A86DEE-B5E6-422C-BFE0-6743C19BC6ED_zpsq5gkcd8f.jpg)
I've been hunting for a spline size for ages now!
(03-11-2016, 10:54 AM)ho55 HI Ross, are you doing what i'm doing....
IIRC you post on LR4x4 too. You will be mating a 722.6 to a LT230?
I'm mating the 722.6 to a Volvo transfer case. I had done it remotely leaving the doughnut, but i am looking at a direct connection to shorten it. I discovered that ML cases have the flange on the rear, and so am looking to make an adaptor plate.
Hence i found this thread while searching for info. If we can find the spline spec, it can be ordered. Without having to cannibalise a box.
I am on LR4x4.... as landroversforever, and I'm following your build thread
.I'm joining the LT230 to the ML autobox with this:
The plate on the LT230 I've made already, the black bit is the ML side which is a 3D printed mock up at the moment.
I've started machining it and it currently looks like this:
I've been hunting for a spline size for ages now!
BTW most jealous that you have access to 3DP and CNC mills. I have to make do with manual mills and lathes.
Actually i may have to re-think that plan. The ML box is 670mm long apparently, and that makes the direct solution longer than my E300 box with the doughnut. I was trying to shorten things so that i could move the engine back a little more.
BTW most jealous that you have access to 3DP and CNC mills. I have to make do with manual mills and lathes.
Haha that mill is nothing special, it only controls the X and Y axis. The Z is done manually! So doing the majority of the roughing on that end of the adaptor took me 12hrs.
With the tail housing/adaptor removed it's no longer than the car one?! There's a short adaptor housing that's used to join the ML transferbox on.
Haha that mill is nothing special, it only controls the X and Y axis. The Z is done manually! So doing the majority of the roughing on that end of the adaptor took me 12hrs.
This is the tail housing sat on the mill at work when I was measuring the bolt pattern:
![[Image: E58BDC50-B5A1-4ACB-B113-A92550FB7D30_zpsvuzcsqop.jpg]](http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/qq112/landroversforever/E58BDC50-B5A1-4ACB-B113-A92550FB7D30_zpsvuzcsqop.jpg)
And the back of the ML box without the tail housing:
![[Image: F978069D-B929-4BCA-B718-C1901550F7F6_zpsqloccbaf.jpg]](http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/qq112/landroversforever/F978069D-B929-4BCA-B718-C1901550F7F6_zpsqloccbaf.jpg)
I'll grab some measurements on my way home from work tomorrow for you Ho55.
The tail housing doesn't have any bearings or oil or anything in it other than air and two bolt patterns!
This is the tail housing sat on the mill at work when I was measuring the bolt pattern:
And the back of the ML box without the tail housing:
I'll grab some measurements on my way home from work tomorrow for you Ho55.
Very handy that you have the coords of the ML box, can you share that too please?
How are you with the 606? Running with the ECU or a mech pump? If you need help with the ECU i have all the answers.
Great thanks. I will have to check those measurement to see if I gain anything in length by doing this. On my Volvo Tx case, the nose of that output can go right up to the face of my Tx box.
Very handy that you have the coords of the ML box, can you share that too please?
How are you with the 606? Running with the ECU or a mech pump? If you need help with the ECU i have all the answers.
(03-15-2016, 05:09 AM)ho55 Great thanks. I will have to check those measurement to see if I gain anything in length by doing this. On my Volvo Tx case, the nose of that output can go right up to the face of my Tx box.
Very handy that you have the coords of the ML box, can you share that too please?
How are you with the 606? Running with the ECU or a mech pump? If you need help with the ECU i have all the answers.
Hmmm..... its a hell of a lot of work measuring the hole pattern! and they're all 2-3 decimal places as its a rough casting. Don't even know its 100% correct yet either.
606 is sat on a pallet currently... waiting for the adaptor so I can hang it in the right place. I'll be running it with a mechanical pump from Diesel Meken
(03-15-2016, 05:09 AM)ho55 Great thanks. I will have to check those measurement to see if I gain anything in length by doing this. On my Volvo Tx case, the nose of that output can go right up to the face of my Tx box.
Very handy that you have the coords of the ML box, can you share that too please?
How are you with the 606? Running with the ECU or a mech pump? If you need help with the ECU i have all the answers.
Hmmm..... its a hell of a lot of work measuring the hole pattern! and they're all 2-3 decimal places as its a rough casting. Don't even know its 100% correct yet either.
606 is sat on a pallet currently... waiting for the adaptor so I can hang it in the right place. I'll be running it with a mechanical pump from Diesel Meken
...Unless the alignment or vibration in the doughnut proves to be bad when testing comes around.
I think i have also solved the main need to move the engine back, by relocating the alternator higher up and PS pump inwards a bit.
I think i have to abandon this plan and stay with the doughnut. Its does not gain me anything in length to couple directly.
...Unless the alignment or vibration in the doughnut proves to be bad when testing comes around.
I think i have also solved the main need to move the engine back, by relocating the alternator higher up and PS pump inwards a bit.
I have found a solution by tilting the alt up on its top bracket (about 80 degrees) and adding an bracket to link back to the bottom. This clears my axle nicely and stays just below the turbo inlet. I just have to modify the cooling water output from the block (cut & rotate thermostat housing).
Will also move the PS pump in a little as it's awfully close to my left shock mount. And in the end fit a slightly shorter than standard belt.
(Will post pics of this mod in my TGB/LR4x4 build threads when done, as could be useful to TGB owners who have done this conversion).
Anyway thanks for the help Ross, i will keep tabs on your build.
I do have some thoughts to get a 90 again (or even do a 100") and drop an OM606 in one day.
Thanks, but no room up that high, as i have a cab over the engine.
I have found a solution by tilting the alt up on its top bracket (about 80 degrees) and adding an bracket to link back to the bottom. This clears my axle nicely and stays just below the turbo inlet. I just have to modify the cooling water output from the block (cut & rotate thermostat housing).
Will also move the PS pump in a little as it's awfully close to my left shock mount. And in the end fit a slightly shorter than standard belt.
(Will post pics of this mod in my TGB/LR4x4 build threads when done, as could be useful to TGB owners who have done this conversion).
Anyway thanks for the help Ross, i will keep tabs on your build.
I do have some thoughts to get a 90 again (or even do a 100") and drop an OM606 in one day.
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