603 No Start after IP Swap
603 No Start after IP Swap
How long do you typically have to crank a bone dry ip? I think at this point I have gone beyond anything "normal" and am worried there is something wrong with the pump.
Can the lift pump be bad while it is being tested on the bench?
Looking for any ideas or advice, and hoping to not have to take it off again to put the old one back...
Thanks!
I installed a Herlevi 6mm pump on my 87 603 and am having one hell of a time getting any fuel out of it. I have even attached a bulb primer to try to force some fuel in...which resulted in fuel coming out of the return, so it has to be getting in there somehow. Still, nothing out of cracked injector ends. Filters are full, etc.
How long do you typically have to crank a bone dry ip? I think at this point I have gone beyond anything "normal" and am worried there is something wrong with the pump.
Can the lift pump be bad while it is being tested on the bench?
Looking for any ideas or advice, and hoping to not have to take it off again to put the old one back...
Thanks!
I noticed that when I push the stop lever on my old pump, you can hear something in there moving. Pushing the lever on the new pump is smooth with no feeling that anything is connected....perhaps the rack is not opening? Wouldn't this need to work in order to set the pump up on the bench?
(03-31-2016, 03:51 PM)awsrock I think the rack might be stuck closed or maybe disconnected....that would explain my situation. Updates to follow
Crack an injector line and see if you are getting fuel at least? Then you can see if its a timing issue or not.
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
(03-31-2016, 03:51 PM)awsrock I think the rack might be stuck closed or maybe disconnected....that would explain my situation. Updates to follow
Crack an injector line and see if you are getting fuel at least? Then you can see if its a timing issue or not.
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
common situation on those pumps, when they are left a wile apart from the engine.
remove the rack cover and force it to move, it should be stuck . usually the element sticks to the barrel and the throtle Spring is not strong enough to make it move. once it starts to heat up all will be ok.
In a M pump with the engine stopped the rack should be half way travel , when it is turned at starter speed the rack moves even forward , and with WOT it goes all the way to the end , so remove the cover and watch that behaviour!!!
FD,
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lol,
common situation on those pumps, when they are left a wile apart from the engine.
remove the rack cover and force it to move, it should be stuck . usually the element sticks to the barrel and the throtle Spring is not strong enough to make it move. once it starts to heat up all will be ok.
In a M pump with the engine stopped the rack should be half way travel , when it is turned at starter speed the rack moves even forward , and with WOT it goes all the way to the end , so remove the cover and watch that behaviour!!!
FD,
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There is no fuel coming out at all from the lines. I think Barrote is right. I found an old post from PP forum with a similar issue, I guess the rack guide or whatever came off track during shipping. I suspect something similar, my pump's box was quite beat up by the time I got it
do as i said , the rack must move by hand with the engine stopped.
BTW with enough crank the pump will suck from tank even with the lift pump damaged. as long as there´s no restriction.
FD,
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nop , its almost impossible for that to happen , most probably the rack is just stiky due to being some time without operation.
do as i said , the rack must move by hand with the engine stopped.
BTW with enough crank the pump will suck from tank even with the lift pump damaged. as long as there´s no restriction.
FD,
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Yes! Rack was stuck closed. One pin was slightly off the rail too, but as soon as the rack was freed, it fell into place. Now I have fuel at the injectors, and a small amount of white smoke from exhaust. Might still have some bleeding to do..hopefully it was timed right. I double checked....
Anyway, TONS of white smoke at first, but it got better. I let it idle for about 10 min. It is still smoking a bit too much for my liking though...maybe adjust timing? It smells like diesel exhaust, but not bad surprisingly. Maybe it will go away on it's own. It sounds fine running. I was told to put it in at 15 BTDC, which I did. My old pump was at 20 atdc and ran very well despite a somewhat weak top end, so maybe I need to compensate to 10 btdc. Any thoughts?
It's alive! Stupid glow plug relay was shot so as soon as I put the new one in it fired right up. That makes no sense to me...
Anyway, TONS of white smoke at first, but it got better. I let it idle for about 10 min. It is still smoking a bit too much for my liking though...maybe adjust timing? It smells like diesel exhaust, but not bad surprisingly. Maybe it will go away on it's own. It sounds fine running. I was told to put it in at 15 BTDC, which I did. My old pump was at 20 atdc and ran very well despite a somewhat weak top end, so maybe I need to compensate to 10 btdc. Any thoughts?
So I cracked each injector and the #4 is the culprit...made no change in idle and the smoke went away save for some normal cold engine whisps. I believe this was the same cylinder that was off the track slightly when I took the cover off...there is no way to set anything out of sync without opening up the pump right? I will take the cover off and double check that this cylinder looks the same as all the others....the funny part is that it is the most difficult to see because of the mounting hold and lift pump in the way
When I forget to open the fuel tap on my tractor, and it starts to pump air, it will still run (bad) for some time. When the fuel tap is open it takes about 5-10 mins at a decent power level to fully bleed the system and get it to run as it should. I bet it's because the hard lines have a weird routing and even go up and down making it easy to trap air.
Maybe a little air in a line that has a weird routing or something like that.
When I forget to open the fuel tap on my tractor, and it starts to pump air, it will still run (bad) for some time. When the fuel tap is open it takes about 5-10 mins at a decent power level to fully bleed the system and get it to run as it should. I bet it's because the hard lines have a weird routing and even go up and down making it easy to trap air.
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