Sleeper W201 with OM613 - 190D 3,2 CDI ABS - ESP

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Sleeper W201 with OM613 - 190D 3,2 CDI ABS - ESP - BAS

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North_Star

Naturally-aspirated

24

04-16-2016, 09:20 AM #1

This is what the W201 looked like before I laid into it. The idea is to bring it back to this very appearance.
[Image: yfCBhc.jpg]

Before the actual project began, I needed to repair a little rust and replace a wheel bearing. Nothing too dramatic.
[Image: pVDWSg.jpg]

The stock engine. The car actually drives rather well, it just lacks so much power. There's a solution to that.
[Image: Wfa071.jpg]

I built these specially to lift the car without having to go underneath. The rust I needed to repair was at the very places where the arms of the lift needed to sit. Just as an inspiration if anyone thought the could use it
[Image: yvUAXr.jpg]

Used in combination with the lift
[Image: l0uATO.jpg]

I pulled the engine. Not a hard job to do, especially since it is not going back in again.
[Image: FezcLn.jpg]

The engine empty engine bay. A lot of work remains in order to fit the new engine. After such high mileage, the bay was filthy
[Image: U8jiTI.jpg]

The merger takes place between these two.
[Image: WbKaS1.jpg]

An overview of the ECU's I needed to swap over. Relay board, transmission ECU, ESP/ABS/BAS-ECU and finally engine ECU.
[Image: LO0gei.jpg]

This goes to show how complete you have to be in the stripping down of the donor. I won't just need the engine wiring loom, so I took the entire loom of the car. That means going down to bare metal.
[Image: O4jlpF.jpg]

Then I pulled the engine/tranny from this car as well. A good engine hoist is a must for a project like this.
[Image: Pp4oV8.jpg]

I took the rear diff from the donor as well. I don't think I was quite aware of the task that lay ahead of me in adapting this to work. This picture shows the size of the original diff vs. the one from the donor. W210 on the left, W201 on the right.
[Image: WJDWe8.jpg]

Finally pulled the car's wiring harness. It is heavy, tangled and daunting!
[Image: y7bceZ.jpg]

Not surprisingly, the single most time consuming and most involved task of this build was the wiring harness. I got out the table, and sat down with the documentation, then located every wire which I estimated would not be needed. The clip it, on to the next one. During removal, I tagged every single connector in order to be able to trace the source - whether I need it or not, I do need this information.
Stereo, airbag-system, windows etc could be removed.
[Image: 0BCxM9.jpg]

This is one of those situations where you think you might be out of your depth... But this is the finished adapted loom, ready to rock.
[Image: 1ye2JM.jpg]

Swirl flaps didn't work, so I took the opportunity to carry out a swirl flap delete.
[Image: 2kxi0b.jpg]

In getting the W201 ready for the wiring harness, I needed to strip that down too. The idea is that is may not be obvious that this car has been modified (heavily)
[Image: fdwBKn.jpg]

To allow for the ESP-system to function, the steering angle sensor needs to be in place. The first time, I used the existing steering axle and armature, but it turned out it was too short. I ended up lengthening the steering axle 7 mm with parts from the W210, and the plastic bracket that resets the indicator arm was moved over to this axle as well. The bracket that holds the armature from the W210 has taken as well, and moved to the steering column of the W201.
[Image: I2fJb0.jpg]

The original fusebox needed to be moved 90 cm forward - no way around it. I did this in order for the fuseboxes from the W210 to fit into the original position of the W201 fusebox. It was winter time, so I appreciated a task which I could do indoors...
[Image: PSwlL5.jpg]

I needed to merge the wiper/washer of the W201 into the armature of the W210. NO simple task, believe me. I think I spent a day and a half making up a one-of armature to work for this project. I had to custom build a few of the contact sets and match this to documentation for the W201. I just couldn't bear the thought of having a car that sometimes works.
[Image: 4KrF3p.jpg]

I paid the neighbor's kid to come and wipe down the entire engine bay with kerosene. Not a bad investment.
[Image: 0fYBNH.jpg]

Built and fitted the custom fuse box. Space is precious, take my word for it!
[Image: yCpiPQ.jpg]

Christmas time! Got the new calipers sent in from Germany. More on that later
[Image: qOCKRz.jpg]

Lightly modified and reinforced bracket for the ABS-unit was welded to the body.
[Image: Lx6cA4.jpg]

Test fit of the ABS-unit
[Image: XrXFcZ.jpg]

A fuel cooler is needed in this older type of commonrail diesel systems, as the fuel which is compressed and returned carries some heat. It would later turn out that I had knicked the cooler while building the bracket for it, so I ended up having to replace this again.
[Image: w6H0MT.jpg]

In the dark, you might spot the fuel cooler. It is fitted to the fuel return. I found room for it on the driver's side, just behind the rear seats, under the car. I might fit a protective plate of some sort.
[Image: Ixi50y.jpg]

Time for upgrading the brakes, since we are doing the responsible thing here.
The brakes are sourced from a Mercedes C124 300 24V 220 hp. Not too hard to find, and they are 4-piston. I got the parts used for cheap. The rotors and pads are new of course. The calipers are bolt on (!!), I just needed to cut a little off the dust plate to make it all fit nicely. (sorry for the blurry pic)
[Image: BYgBdF.jpg]

Comparison between the stock caliper (floating single piston) and the new fixed caliper 4-pot
[Image: uOnohl.jpg]

Finished fitted bigger brakes
[Image: cxaMvx.jpg]

The brake booster from the W210 needed to be swapped over to maintain the diaphragm travel sensor for the BAS-system. To my astonishment, the booster would fit in the original console. However, there would be no room for the sensors facing out to the suspension strut if you were to fit it there - so I fitted it upside down. Then it fits perfectly, without additional adaptation. The master cylinder needs to be spun around 180 deg. to fit, but that's about it. The original brake pedal fits 1:1, I did a calculation on pedal ratio, and these are also close enough. Even the brake light switch fits.
[Image: QegZ1O.jpg]

Finally time to test fit the engine. It was damn close to being possible to use the existing engine brackets, but I ended up having to build custom ones for good alignment.
The VNT actuator interferes with the longitudal member in the right side og the engine bay, so that needed modification
[Image: 0iCdsV.jpg]

A testament to just how tight a fit the 722.6 is. It WILL fit without modifications to the car's body, but only just. You might need to give the body a bang or two where the gear of the starter motor goes, but that is all.
[Image: x8BJqr.jpg]

This is how I ended up attacking the issue of modifying my rear axle to accommodate the new rear diff. I cut out a section of the W210 axle because it had bushings. I decided to go all the way and get the bushings fitted to the W201 in order not to botch anything with an adapter plate or the like.
[Image: yn0H4F.jpg]

Cut to size and ready for welding to the existing rear axle.
[Image: buADfG.jpg]

Welded into place. It's really on there... Now comes the part with fitting the diff. Thanks to my good friend Furious 80er for a great helping hand in this!!
[Image: 3peCPN.jpg]

Rear diff in place. It is shifted slightly to the right, since there simply is no more room to work with. From stock, the diff is off center due to the way it is fitted in the W210. There is not enough room to compensate for this under the car.
[Image: WNvaZR.jpg]

View from the rear of the car. I've cut windows that allow access to the bolts which secure the diff.
[Image: koZuPf.jpg]

This post was last modified: 04-16-2016, 10:04 AM by North_Star.

North_Star

04-16-2016, 09:20 AM #1

Hi fellow Turbo Diesel Freaks!

I have been meaning to do this for a while. I have a tradition for having myself a winter project, and circumstances have lead to this winter being a little more elaborate. In honesty, this is the most ambitious project, I have gotten myself into yet.

I bought a '90 W201 in pretty good condition from the drummer of a semi-known band in Denmark, who plays for old people at wedding anniversaries and such. Done 536.000 km, and actually ran well enough. Original engine and gearbox was a straight-5 90 hp NA diesel (OM602) with an automatic transmission
In addition, I bought a German W210 320 CDI Wagon from 1999. The engine is OM613, auto tranny is 722.6.

In the planning phase, I decided to go with all original controllers. I tried to rule out the ESP-system, even with modified software for the engine ECU, but the transmission relies on information from the ESP-system to change gears. Thankfully, I discovered this in trial runs with the W210 - and that shaped the project a little, since I now had to swap the ABS/ESP/BAS into the W201. To do that, you need wheel sensors, steering angle sensor, yaw-sensor/lateral acceleration sensor (one unit), PML-valve from the steering rack, ABS-unit and the brake booster (BAS diaphragm travel sensor is fitted to that)
The amount of custom fabricated parts for this project is high.

The project is as much a learning process, as it is building a unique car.
I am not a mechanic, I am not a machinist, I am not a welder.

On 15th April 2016 the car starts, drives, boosts and behaves not unlike I had hoped.
At this point I am facing a few minor points, I need to put the interior back in, I need to fit all trim again and I need some calm and time for road tests.
I am not home free just yet - I will keep posting progress.

What I've learned from this and previous projects:
NO:
CAN-bus is not something mythical that should prevent us from modifying our cars.
The car was not difficult to start after I put it all together.

YES:
You do need access to good facilities for machining and welding. So far, I have used TIG-welders, MAG-welders, lathes, mills and various hand tools.
It DOES cost money to build projects, even if you theoretically have all the parts sitting in the two cars for the project
You will fuck up, and it will happen again, and it will cost you a pretty penny and a set-back. Leave it, see your friends and family, and come back to it another day.
You will need a good OBD-tester. I am blessed with access to a good one which has been essential in this build. Bosch DCU100
Taking pictures of disassembly and progress can save your ass, and you have all the pictures to re-live your great project!

Note: I have taken 750 pictures of this build so far. I have selected quite a few to tell my story, but if you need additional pictures or a helping hand in a similar situation, PM me and I will do my best.

It started out like this. I bought the W123, and then quickly sold it again, since it was too rotten for my taste. I found the W201 and bought it right after.
[Image: BRM21P.jpg]

This is what the W201 looked like before I laid into it. The idea is to bring it back to this very appearance.
[Image: yfCBhc.jpg]

Before the actual project began, I needed to repair a little rust and replace a wheel bearing. Nothing too dramatic.
[Image: pVDWSg.jpg]

The stock engine. The car actually drives rather well, it just lacks so much power. There's a solution to that.
[Image: Wfa071.jpg]

I built these specially to lift the car without having to go underneath. The rust I needed to repair was at the very places where the arms of the lift needed to sit. Just as an inspiration if anyone thought the could use it
[Image: yvUAXr.jpg]

Used in combination with the lift
[Image: l0uATO.jpg]

I pulled the engine. Not a hard job to do, especially since it is not going back in again.
[Image: FezcLn.jpg]

The engine empty engine bay. A lot of work remains in order to fit the new engine. After such high mileage, the bay was filthy
[Image: U8jiTI.jpg]

The merger takes place between these two.
[Image: WbKaS1.jpg]

An overview of the ECU's I needed to swap over. Relay board, transmission ECU, ESP/ABS/BAS-ECU and finally engine ECU.
[Image: LO0gei.jpg]

This goes to show how complete you have to be in the stripping down of the donor. I won't just need the engine wiring loom, so I took the entire loom of the car. That means going down to bare metal.
[Image: O4jlpF.jpg]

Then I pulled the engine/tranny from this car as well. A good engine hoist is a must for a project like this.
[Image: Pp4oV8.jpg]

I took the rear diff from the donor as well. I don't think I was quite aware of the task that lay ahead of me in adapting this to work. This picture shows the size of the original diff vs. the one from the donor. W210 on the left, W201 on the right.
[Image: WJDWe8.jpg]

Finally pulled the car's wiring harness. It is heavy, tangled and daunting!
[Image: y7bceZ.jpg]

Not surprisingly, the single most time consuming and most involved task of this build was the wiring harness. I got out the table, and sat down with the documentation, then located every wire which I estimated would not be needed. The clip it, on to the next one. During removal, I tagged every single connector in order to be able to trace the source - whether I need it or not, I do need this information.
Stereo, airbag-system, windows etc could be removed.
[Image: 0BCxM9.jpg]

This is one of those situations where you think you might be out of your depth... But this is the finished adapted loom, ready to rock.
[Image: 1ye2JM.jpg]

Swirl flaps didn't work, so I took the opportunity to carry out a swirl flap delete.
[Image: 2kxi0b.jpg]

In getting the W201 ready for the wiring harness, I needed to strip that down too. The idea is that is may not be obvious that this car has been modified (heavily)
[Image: fdwBKn.jpg]

To allow for the ESP-system to function, the steering angle sensor needs to be in place. The first time, I used the existing steering axle and armature, but it turned out it was too short. I ended up lengthening the steering axle 7 mm with parts from the W210, and the plastic bracket that resets the indicator arm was moved over to this axle as well. The bracket that holds the armature from the W210 has taken as well, and moved to the steering column of the W201.
[Image: I2fJb0.jpg]

The original fusebox needed to be moved 90 cm forward - no way around it. I did this in order for the fuseboxes from the W210 to fit into the original position of the W201 fusebox. It was winter time, so I appreciated a task which I could do indoors...
[Image: PSwlL5.jpg]

I needed to merge the wiper/washer of the W201 into the armature of the W210. NO simple task, believe me. I think I spent a day and a half making up a one-of armature to work for this project. I had to custom build a few of the contact sets and match this to documentation for the W201. I just couldn't bear the thought of having a car that sometimes works.
[Image: 4KrF3p.jpg]

I paid the neighbor's kid to come and wipe down the entire engine bay with kerosene. Not a bad investment.
[Image: 0fYBNH.jpg]

Built and fitted the custom fuse box. Space is precious, take my word for it!
[Image: yCpiPQ.jpg]

Christmas time! Got the new calipers sent in from Germany. More on that later
[Image: qOCKRz.jpg]

Lightly modified and reinforced bracket for the ABS-unit was welded to the body.
[Image: Lx6cA4.jpg]

Test fit of the ABS-unit
[Image: XrXFcZ.jpg]

A fuel cooler is needed in this older type of commonrail diesel systems, as the fuel which is compressed and returned carries some heat. It would later turn out that I had knicked the cooler while building the bracket for it, so I ended up having to replace this again.
[Image: w6H0MT.jpg]

In the dark, you might spot the fuel cooler. It is fitted to the fuel return. I found room for it on the driver's side, just behind the rear seats, under the car. I might fit a protective plate of some sort.
[Image: Ixi50y.jpg]

Time for upgrading the brakes, since we are doing the responsible thing here.
The brakes are sourced from a Mercedes C124 300 24V 220 hp. Not too hard to find, and they are 4-piston. I got the parts used for cheap. The rotors and pads are new of course. The calipers are bolt on (!!), I just needed to cut a little off the dust plate to make it all fit nicely. (sorry for the blurry pic)
[Image: BYgBdF.jpg]

Comparison between the stock caliper (floating single piston) and the new fixed caliper 4-pot
[Image: uOnohl.jpg]

Finished fitted bigger brakes
[Image: cxaMvx.jpg]

The brake booster from the W210 needed to be swapped over to maintain the diaphragm travel sensor for the BAS-system. To my astonishment, the booster would fit in the original console. However, there would be no room for the sensors facing out to the suspension strut if you were to fit it there - so I fitted it upside down. Then it fits perfectly, without additional adaptation. The master cylinder needs to be spun around 180 deg. to fit, but that's about it. The original brake pedal fits 1:1, I did a calculation on pedal ratio, and these are also close enough. Even the brake light switch fits.
[Image: QegZ1O.jpg]

Finally time to test fit the engine. It was damn close to being possible to use the existing engine brackets, but I ended up having to build custom ones for good alignment.
The VNT actuator interferes with the longitudal member in the right side og the engine bay, so that needed modification
[Image: 0iCdsV.jpg]

A testament to just how tight a fit the 722.6 is. It WILL fit without modifications to the car's body, but only just. You might need to give the body a bang or two where the gear of the starter motor goes, but that is all.
[Image: x8BJqr.jpg]

This is how I ended up attacking the issue of modifying my rear axle to accommodate the new rear diff. I cut out a section of the W210 axle because it had bushings. I decided to go all the way and get the bushings fitted to the W201 in order not to botch anything with an adapter plate or the like.
[Image: yn0H4F.jpg]

Cut to size and ready for welding to the existing rear axle.
[Image: buADfG.jpg]

Welded into place. It's really on there... Now comes the part with fitting the diff. Thanks to my good friend Furious 80er for a great helping hand in this!!
[Image: 3peCPN.jpg]

Rear diff in place. It is shifted slightly to the right, since there simply is no more room to work with. From stock, the diff is off center due to the way it is fitted in the W210. There is not enough room to compensate for this under the car.
[Image: WNvaZR.jpg]

View from the rear of the car. I've cut windows that allow access to the bolts which secure the diff.
[Image: koZuPf.jpg]

North_Star

Naturally-aspirated

24

04-16-2016, 09:28 AM #2

Engine brackets after I finished welding them. Probably vulgarly overdimensioned, but that won't lose me any sleep.
[Image: YO7R6Y.jpg]

For the other side
[Image: ANxxdk.jpg]

Fitted to the engine and the car. I used the motor mounts from the W210 as they are simple and symmetrical
[Image: x8l5oQ.jpg]

Left side

Comparison between W201 and W210 driveshafts. W210 top of pic. The modification to merge the two is extensive
[Image: dFHNRJ.jpg]

A day with the lathe. The outside CV-joint on the W201 cannot be removed from the axle, so I needed some creativity to allow me to clean a section off.
[Image: AiPO66.jpg]

More of the work on the lathe. I have a tendency to take very few photos when I am away from home, so I don't have photos of the entire modification of the drive shafts.
I cut the two axles in half, then tapered each end. On one end, I machined a little stud that would insert into a completely centered hole in the corresponding axle. Before putting them together, I machined a sleeve that would fit over the weld, in order to gain a little more strength where the joint is. The material is HARD to machine, I assume it is cured and heat treated several times over from the factory.
[Image: f4m0ws.jpg]

Time for the car to swallow its new wiring harness. Not too hard to do
[Image: mBlGK1.jpg]

After welding the two tapered ends of the axles with TIG, I filled in the crevice with the MAG-welder. Then I ground down the weld in order for the sleeve to fit, fitted the sleeve, and full-bead welded the two ends. Is it straight? Will it take the beating of the 470 Nm? We'll see...
[Image: HUT2lP.jpg]

A little heat treatment of my own. I took an acetylene torch and heated the joint until it was glowing red, I tell myself this will normalize the crystal structure of the metal. Then let it cool down slowly
[Image: uNs0Gz.jpg]

The prop shaft needed to be modified extenisvely to fit. This first time, I was naive enough to think shortening the thing was sufficient. Since this, I have shortened another two times over. What is common for each time, is that I have carefully drawn a line along the shaft, in order to ensure the axle goes together in the same way I took it apart. That way, the balancing weights stay in the same place relative to each other. I know that this is probably insufficient, but I may get the entire axle balanced at a later stage. More on that later
[Image: qYzq4T.jpg]

Tacked and later TIG-welded.
[Image: 6ZamkG.jpg]

This keeps happening: Due to Mercedes' delightfully conservative nature, many of the original brackets here and there fit with newer parts. This is the kickdown switch.
[Image: 8e92Hh.jpg]

I needed a custom bracket for tranny rear mount. Fabrication
[Image: IUetaY.jpg]

Ready to hold the tranny up
[Image: XyycvK.jpg]

This picture shows very well how tight a fit this is. I needed to steal a mm or two here and there, especially upwards, since I will not run the risk of interference between the body and the joint
[Image: IiD12q.jpg]

Another lift in and out. I think the engine has been in and out 6 or 8 times
[Image: hwZZNS.jpg]

Near-finished installation of the braking system, mechanically, pneumatically, hydraulically and electrically!
[Image: MWi5Fu.jpg]

I cut a simple template from cardboard to cut the hole for the shifter from the W210.
[Image: opmkzn.jpg]

The ABS sensor in the W201 in the rear read on the the diff, meaning I only have one signal. I needed signals from each driveshaft. I cleaned up a part of the drive shaft and spotwelded ABS reluctor rings from a Mercedes Vito in place. The ABS system isn't all that picky as far as the signal goes, it is a fairly robust system in my opinion.
[Image: wCiJYq.jpg]

A simple bracket for the combination sensor (yaw rate and lateral acceleration sensors) was made up. This needs to sit straight.
[Image: Z1417z.jpg]

Fitted to the car. Situated under the rear seat on right side.
[Image: 6ibfXC.jpg]

The donor engine was covered in oil on one side. I fitted new O-rings the the crankcase breather and the vacuum pump. It seems to have cured it
[Image: M2fnyt.jpg]

The stock bracket at the front of the car needed to be removed. The front of the car is slightly different depending on whether it is a 2,5D or a 2,5TD. The TD (and 2,6L I6) has the radiator fitted further to the front of the car. I needed to modify mine to accommodate this.
[Image: BXxEtP.jpg]

A strap and some pieces of wood are a good helping hand in this. The locking plate is from a third donor, I got it as a discount when I bought the radiator. Which, by the way, is junk.
[Image: aa42YJ.jpg]

Version 1 of the radiator bracket is finished. It is so sturdy you could probably fit a drag hook to it...
On a side not, the stabilizer bar underneath has been dropped 5 cm, otherwise there would not have been room for the engine's sump.
[Image: jOuV4o.jpg]

Finally fitting the blinding off bolts to the manifold. I threaded each hole from the swirl flap axles, then packed the thread of the bolts and fitted a copper washer.
[Image: oh8bto.jpg]

Parts back from 'the painter'. (I paint the parts myself in the room where I have my furnace. Nice and warm.
[Image: lnIJ7D.jpg]

Ironically, this task was one of the most repetitive and time consuming of the entire project. I think I modified and re-modified this 30 times. Ultimately, it was the size of the prop shaft rubber joint that decided the geometry of the shifter arm. It work great now, though.
[Image: Vgh8zA.jpg]

This is the view underneath when the shifter has been fitted.
[Image: 2tngkT.jpg]

Engine fitted with manifolds this time. I believe this was the last time, I fitted the engine.
[Image: aLGqvZ.jpg]

More work on the lathe. I needed to make bushings to fit inside turbocharger and EGR-pipe.
[Image: yIXjmr.jpg]

Ready to weld to the turbo/IC plumbing
[Image: V3JtqL.jpg]

A rather blurry pic of the rear ABS sensor. I was in luck, as I found a way to fit this to an already existing bolt nearby. It is a 6 mm bolt that holds the handbrake cable into place. The brackets for the ABS-sensors were hand made
[Image: fiDukX.jpg]

The epitome of projects: Do it, then redo it or adapt it. The radiator interfered with the engine fan, and needed to be moved even further forward. Not too bad to do either.
[Image: X1Nrh7.jpg]

Christmas! I got the packages containing all I needed for plumbing and to make up the power steering fluid cooling circuit.
[Image: 1C13TF.jpg]

Some of the hoses I had made custom for this project. That goes for everything related to the power steering. I used a Danish specialist called Slangespecialisten - I give him my warmest recommendations.
[Image: 0tEVgM.jpg]

Not enough room? Make room! I had no way of finding sufficient room for the turbo compressor outlet downwards, so I got a hold of a really good hole saw, and cut a hole for the tubing. The edges were fitted with a protective strip.
[Image: ypVyct.jpg]

Not a week goes by without a little machining. These two parts are for fitting to the EGR pipe that goes to the inlet manifold, and to fit the intake air temperature sensor.
[Image: p2IHz0.jpg]

The pipe itself
[Image: T3xMi1.jpg]

Finished product
[Image: pDS77J.jpg]

This post was last modified: 04-16-2016, 10:20 AM by North_Star.

North_Star

04-16-2016, 09:28 AM #2

Engine brackets after I finished welding them. Probably vulgarly overdimensioned, but that won't lose me any sleep.
[Image: YO7R6Y.jpg]

For the other side
[Image: ANxxdk.jpg]

Fitted to the engine and the car. I used the motor mounts from the W210 as they are simple and symmetrical
[Image: x8l5oQ.jpg]

Left side
[Image: Zywn4q.jpg]

Comparison between W201 and W210 driveshafts. W210 top of pic. The modification to merge the two is extensive
[Image: dFHNRJ.jpg]

A day with the lathe. The outside CV-joint on the W201 cannot be removed from the axle, so I needed some creativity to allow me to clean a section off.
[Image: AiPO66.jpg]

More of the work on the lathe. I have a tendency to take very few photos when I am away from home, so I don't have photos of the entire modification of the drive shafts.
I cut the two axles in half, then tapered each end. On one end, I machined a little stud that would insert into a completely centered hole in the corresponding axle. Before putting them together, I machined a sleeve that would fit over the weld, in order to gain a little more strength where the joint is. The material is HARD to machine, I assume it is cured and heat treated several times over from the factory.
[Image: f4m0ws.jpg]

Time for the car to swallow its new wiring harness. Not too hard to do
[Image: mBlGK1.jpg]

After welding the two tapered ends of the axles with TIG, I filled in the crevice with the MAG-welder. Then I ground down the weld in order for the sleeve to fit, fitted the sleeve, and full-bead welded the two ends. Is it straight? Will it take the beating of the 470 Nm? We'll see...
[Image: HUT2lP.jpg]

A little heat treatment of my own. I took an acetylene torch and heated the joint until it was glowing red, I tell myself this will normalize the crystal structure of the metal. Then let it cool down slowly
[Image: uNs0Gz.jpg]

The prop shaft needed to be modified extenisvely to fit. This first time, I was naive enough to think shortening the thing was sufficient. Since this, I have shortened another two times over. What is common for each time, is that I have carefully drawn a line along the shaft, in order to ensure the axle goes together in the same way I took it apart. That way, the balancing weights stay in the same place relative to each other. I know that this is probably insufficient, but I may get the entire axle balanced at a later stage. More on that later
[Image: qYzq4T.jpg]

Tacked and later TIG-welded.
[Image: 6ZamkG.jpg]

This keeps happening: Due to Mercedes' delightfully conservative nature, many of the original brackets here and there fit with newer parts. This is the kickdown switch.
[Image: 8e92Hh.jpg]

I needed a custom bracket for tranny rear mount. Fabrication
[Image: IUetaY.jpg]

Ready to hold the tranny up
[Image: XyycvK.jpg]

This picture shows very well how tight a fit this is. I needed to steal a mm or two here and there, especially upwards, since I will not run the risk of interference between the body and the joint
[Image: IiD12q.jpg]

Another lift in and out. I think the engine has been in and out 6 or 8 times
[Image: hwZZNS.jpg]

Near-finished installation of the braking system, mechanically, pneumatically, hydraulically and electrically!
[Image: MWi5Fu.jpg]

I cut a simple template from cardboard to cut the hole for the shifter from the W210.
[Image: opmkzn.jpg]

The ABS sensor in the W201 in the rear read on the the diff, meaning I only have one signal. I needed signals from each driveshaft. I cleaned up a part of the drive shaft and spotwelded ABS reluctor rings from a Mercedes Vito in place. The ABS system isn't all that picky as far as the signal goes, it is a fairly robust system in my opinion.
[Image: wCiJYq.jpg]

A simple bracket for the combination sensor (yaw rate and lateral acceleration sensors) was made up. This needs to sit straight.
[Image: Z1417z.jpg]

Fitted to the car. Situated under the rear seat on right side.
[Image: 6ibfXC.jpg]

The donor engine was covered in oil on one side. I fitted new O-rings the the crankcase breather and the vacuum pump. It seems to have cured it
[Image: M2fnyt.jpg]

The stock bracket at the front of the car needed to be removed. The front of the car is slightly different depending on whether it is a 2,5D or a 2,5TD. The TD (and 2,6L I6) has the radiator fitted further to the front of the car. I needed to modify mine to accommodate this.
[Image: BXxEtP.jpg]

A strap and some pieces of wood are a good helping hand in this. The locking plate is from a third donor, I got it as a discount when I bought the radiator. Which, by the way, is junk.
[Image: aa42YJ.jpg]

Version 1 of the radiator bracket is finished. It is so sturdy you could probably fit a drag hook to it...
On a side not, the stabilizer bar underneath has been dropped 5 cm, otherwise there would not have been room for the engine's sump.
[Image: jOuV4o.jpg]

Finally fitting the blinding off bolts to the manifold. I threaded each hole from the swirl flap axles, then packed the thread of the bolts and fitted a copper washer.
[Image: oh8bto.jpg]

Parts back from 'the painter'. (I paint the parts myself in the room where I have my furnace. Nice and warm.
[Image: lnIJ7D.jpg]

Ironically, this task was one of the most repetitive and time consuming of the entire project. I think I modified and re-modified this 30 times. Ultimately, it was the size of the prop shaft rubber joint that decided the geometry of the shifter arm. It work great now, though.
[Image: Vgh8zA.jpg]

This is the view underneath when the shifter has been fitted.
[Image: 2tngkT.jpg]

Engine fitted with manifolds this time. I believe this was the last time, I fitted the engine.
[Image: aLGqvZ.jpg]

More work on the lathe. I needed to make bushings to fit inside turbocharger and EGR-pipe.
[Image: yIXjmr.jpg]

Ready to weld to the turbo/IC plumbing
[Image: V3JtqL.jpg]

A rather blurry pic of the rear ABS sensor. I was in luck, as I found a way to fit this to an already existing bolt nearby. It is a 6 mm bolt that holds the handbrake cable into place. The brackets for the ABS-sensors were hand made
[Image: fiDukX.jpg]

The epitome of projects: Do it, then redo it or adapt it. The radiator interfered with the engine fan, and needed to be moved even further forward. Not too bad to do either.
[Image: X1Nrh7.jpg]

Christmas! I got the packages containing all I needed for plumbing and to make up the power steering fluid cooling circuit.
[Image: 1C13TF.jpg]

Some of the hoses I had made custom for this project. That goes for everything related to the power steering. I used a Danish specialist called Slangespecialisten - I give him my warmest recommendations.
[Image: 0tEVgM.jpg]

Not enough room? Make room! I had no way of finding sufficient room for the turbo compressor outlet downwards, so I got a hold of a really good hole saw, and cut a hole for the tubing. The edges were fitted with a protective strip.
[Image: ypVyct.jpg]

Not a week goes by without a little machining. These two parts are for fitting to the EGR pipe that goes to the inlet manifold, and to fit the intake air temperature sensor.
[Image: p2IHz0.jpg]

The pipe itself
[Image: T3xMi1.jpg]

Finished product
[Image: pDS77J.jpg]

North_Star

Naturally-aspirated

24

04-16-2016, 09:29 AM #3

Test fitted the bumper to make sure I wasn't destroying aesthetics. I can live with that.
[Image: OmHoli.jpg]

New fuel lines and brake lines. I needed to run an extra line to the back, as it was only a single brake line before. I used the brackets from the W210, but I needed to shorten then to fit only there 4 lines (there were 6 slots in the stock one)
[Image: xTrpLK.jpg]

As mentioned earlier, the VNT actuator interfered with the vehicle body. I modified the bracket and actuator arm
[Image: aM6sEO.jpg]

Finished plumbing to go from intercooler to intake manifold
[Image: V2Skzz.jpg]

Did quite a bit of TIG that day. The other two pipes are for turbo to intercooler, and for cooling water from thermostat housing to radiator inlet.
[Image: q5AM6h.jpg]

Plumbing from turbo to intercooler fitted
[Image: mTEjCI.jpg]

Plumbing from intercooler to intake done and dusted
[Image: 2d0T3I.jpg]

Fitted the reservoir for the central hydraulics. The only hydraulics in mine is the power steering, but the donor came with active suspension. that means the hydraulic pump has two outputs.
[Image: QDgobp.jpg]

Invested a little more time in the prop shaft. The bearing needs a place to stand, the means modifying the bracket from the W210. I built these to weld to the car's body
[Image: J3MLBs.jpg]

Then I built a bracket to go across. I ended up having to move this forward, we'll get to that.
[Image: 9uzHdw.jpg]

A finished driveshaft, lubed and booted
[Image: yRZmCc.jpg]

After I got the car to start, I found out that the ESP system needs to see the PML valve. That is the valve that ensures dynamic power steering. I only needed to fit it to the wiring loom, as the signal is only an output.
[Image: 3T7s5p.jpg]

There's a lot of this. Playing around with the diagnostics equipment, figuring out whether you are getting the correct signals or not. This is how I discovered that the front ABS-reluctor is a 96 tooth on the W201 - that means it will show exactly double the speed it is supposed to. That is being sorted out
[Image: TArdN2.jpg]

I fried a power steering pump. There, I said it! I fitted the connections wrong and paid the price. The power steering pump consists of two pumps, the one you can see on the picture, and a separate positive displacement pump fitted to a split axle. The beautiful part of that is, you can remove the excentric axle for the positive displacement pump, and thereby disable an entire circuit. I did that. I am aware that a pump exists which only supplies pressure for steering, BUT that goes in a different style bracket for the pump. This solution now flies.
[Image: nURyy1.jpg]

Well. Like I have written in earlier, the rear diff could not be centered. That meant that the prop shaft rubber joint would not run straight, and as I've learned from a specialist, the rubber joints must run 100% straight. The answer to this was fitting an additional joint to the prop shaft. I received an offer for carrying out this work, but the price was way to steep, som I ended up taking up the challenge myself.
The first part was modifying the existing flange for the rear diff.
[Image: RTccP2.jpg]

These are all the parts I bought for the modification of the prop shaft
[Image: pC2tYb.jpg]

I started out by cutting the three arms off of the flange with an angle grinder. Then aligned the flange 100% straight in the lathe and machined it down to fit with the new flange.
[Image: FIGkV8.jpg]

Ready for the 4-bolt flange
[Image: ylK09J.jpg]

I bored out a corresponding hole in the flange to fit, and made sure it was a fairly tight fit. Then welded it from the backside in a few places
[Image: TLZxnk.jpg]

After that, full bead welding inside the flange (TIG). In this picture I have take 2 mm off of the weld on the recess, it is very important for the recess to meet the mating flange perfectly to center it.
[Image: 4Nb2c1.jpg]

After machining the yoke down to suitable size to fit inside the shaft, I welded the yoke to the axle.
[Image: LcBP1f.jpg]

All the parts ready to be put together with a new joint.
[Image: sUtqCk.jpg]

The replacement pump - this one is one-of, as half of the axle has been removed. It's a good thing I have a girlfriend who lives in Germany so I can have cheap parts shipped to her!
[Image: YGhI1M.jpg]

Pressing in the stubs that make up the axle joint. Not too difficult work, even though I have never done this before.
[Image: ovENvJ.jpg]

The finished prop shaft. I've driven a few pulls with it, and it works outstanding. Since this picture was taken, the bearing supports have been welded into place, so this is all done now.
[Image: aMCheG.jpg]

The first victim of the monster! No honestly - this was something I destroyed in the bench, the car just finished the job. This is the inner CV joint of the driveshaft, and it died in the hydraulic press, I just never realized it had died.
[Image: hvJ1r7.jpg]

I built an exhaust from bit and bobs I had laying around. It is a 3" downpipe that merges into 2,5". I have bad experience with loud cars, so this is plenty good for me. I am still missing a muffler for the rear, I think I might have to buy something for that. Again, this will be built quiet and sleepy.
[Image: I9aS8Z.jpg]

Ready for full bead welding.
[Image: 8wo5m0.jpg]

Found myself doing math in the workshop to figure out whether the ABS sensors at the back were reading wrong, or it was the ones at the front. Math doesn't lie (unless you are bad at it) - and it turned out the front sensors were reading double of what they should be. The answer was very simple: count the teeth, and remember the ECU is looking for 48 teeth (if you're lazy: 96 teeth). I already purchased 2 ABS rings from a W414 (Vaneo). These will fit when I machine the original teeth away, and I should be ok.
[Image: TIGppW.jpg]

This is the point I am at now. The car starts and drives, but is rather disassembled. I am attacking that now!

Please accept my appreciation if you made it this far! I am finding it extremely hard to find people who will listen to all the details of my story.
Leave a comment or a suggestion. I will keep this thread updated.

North_Star

This post was last modified: 04-16-2016, 10:32 AM by North_Star.

North_Star

04-16-2016, 09:29 AM #3

This was quite a bit of work. The stock intercooler will not actually fit, but I modified it slightly, and then angled it somewhat, just allowing it to fit without cutting the bumper.
[Image: ATrnpc.jpg]

Test fitted the bumper to make sure I wasn't destroying aesthetics. I can live with that.
[Image: OmHoli.jpg]

New fuel lines and brake lines. I needed to run an extra line to the back, as it was only a single brake line before. I used the brackets from the W210, but I needed to shorten then to fit only there 4 lines (there were 6 slots in the stock one)
[Image: xTrpLK.jpg]

As mentioned earlier, the VNT actuator interfered with the vehicle body. I modified the bracket and actuator arm
[Image: aM6sEO.jpg]

Finished plumbing to go from intercooler to intake manifold
[Image: V2Skzz.jpg]

Did quite a bit of TIG that day. The other two pipes are for turbo to intercooler, and for cooling water from thermostat housing to radiator inlet.
[Image: q5AM6h.jpg]

Plumbing from turbo to intercooler fitted
[Image: mTEjCI.jpg]

Plumbing from intercooler to intake done and dusted
[Image: 2d0T3I.jpg]

Fitted the reservoir for the central hydraulics. The only hydraulics in mine is the power steering, but the donor came with active suspension. that means the hydraulic pump has two outputs.
[Image: QDgobp.jpg]

Invested a little more time in the prop shaft. The bearing needs a place to stand, the means modifying the bracket from the W210. I built these to weld to the car's body
[Image: J3MLBs.jpg]

Then I built a bracket to go across. I ended up having to move this forward, we'll get to that.
[Image: 9uzHdw.jpg]

A finished driveshaft, lubed and booted
[Image: yRZmCc.jpg]

After I got the car to start, I found out that the ESP system needs to see the PML valve. That is the valve that ensures dynamic power steering. I only needed to fit it to the wiring loom, as the signal is only an output.
[Image: 3T7s5p.jpg]

There's a lot of this. Playing around with the diagnostics equipment, figuring out whether you are getting the correct signals or not. This is how I discovered that the front ABS-reluctor is a 96 tooth on the W201 - that means it will show exactly double the speed it is supposed to. That is being sorted out
[Image: TArdN2.jpg]

I fried a power steering pump. There, I said it! I fitted the connections wrong and paid the price. The power steering pump consists of two pumps, the one you can see on the picture, and a separate positive displacement pump fitted to a split axle. The beautiful part of that is, you can remove the excentric axle for the positive displacement pump, and thereby disable an entire circuit. I did that. I am aware that a pump exists which only supplies pressure for steering, BUT that goes in a different style bracket for the pump. This solution now flies.
[Image: nURyy1.jpg]

Well. Like I have written in earlier, the rear diff could not be centered. That meant that the prop shaft rubber joint would not run straight, and as I've learned from a specialist, the rubber joints must run 100% straight. The answer to this was fitting an additional joint to the prop shaft. I received an offer for carrying out this work, but the price was way to steep, som I ended up taking up the challenge myself.
The first part was modifying the existing flange for the rear diff.
[Image: RTccP2.jpg]

These are all the parts I bought for the modification of the prop shaft
[Image: pC2tYb.jpg]

I started out by cutting the three arms off of the flange with an angle grinder. Then aligned the flange 100% straight in the lathe and machined it down to fit with the new flange.
[Image: FIGkV8.jpg]

Ready for the 4-bolt flange
[Image: ylK09J.jpg]

I bored out a corresponding hole in the flange to fit, and made sure it was a fairly tight fit. Then welded it from the backside in a few places
[Image: TLZxnk.jpg]

After that, full bead welding inside the flange (TIG). In this picture I have take 2 mm off of the weld on the recess, it is very important for the recess to meet the mating flange perfectly to center it.
[Image: 4Nb2c1.jpg]

After machining the yoke down to suitable size to fit inside the shaft, I welded the yoke to the axle.
[Image: LcBP1f.jpg]

All the parts ready to be put together with a new joint.
[Image: sUtqCk.jpg]

The replacement pump - this one is one-of, as half of the axle has been removed. It's a good thing I have a girlfriend who lives in Germany so I can have cheap parts shipped to her!
[Image: YGhI1M.jpg]

Pressing in the stubs that make up the axle joint. Not too difficult work, even though I have never done this before.
[Image: ovENvJ.jpg]

The finished prop shaft. I've driven a few pulls with it, and it works outstanding. Since this picture was taken, the bearing supports have been welded into place, so this is all done now.
[Image: aMCheG.jpg]

The first victim of the monster! No honestly - this was something I destroyed in the bench, the car just finished the job. This is the inner CV joint of the driveshaft, and it died in the hydraulic press, I just never realized it had died.
[Image: hvJ1r7.jpg]

I built an exhaust from bit and bobs I had laying around. It is a 3" downpipe that merges into 2,5". I have bad experience with loud cars, so this is plenty good for me. I am still missing a muffler for the rear, I think I might have to buy something for that. Again, this will be built quiet and sleepy.
[Image: I9aS8Z.jpg]

Ready for full bead welding.
[Image: 8wo5m0.jpg]

Found myself doing math in the workshop to figure out whether the ABS sensors at the back were reading wrong, or it was the ones at the front. Math doesn't lie (unless you are bad at it) - and it turned out the front sensors were reading double of what they should be. The answer was very simple: count the teeth, and remember the ECU is looking for 48 teeth (if you're lazy: 96 teeth). I already purchased 2 ABS rings from a W414 (Vaneo). These will fit when I machine the original teeth away, and I should be ok.
[Image: TIGppW.jpg]

This is the point I am at now. The car starts and drives, but is rather disassembled. I am attacking that now!

Please accept my appreciation if you made it this far! I am finding it extremely hard to find people who will listen to all the details of my story.
Leave a comment or a suggestion. I will keep this thread updated.

North_Star

Om606w201

K26-2

45

04-16-2016, 01:19 PM #4

There we go these are the types of posts and builds we all need to see more of around here. I like how you routed the charge pipe down through the passenger wheel well. Looks clean. After all that work of try to adapt the rear diff. over would you do it again? Is the w210 diff really that much stronger? For the amount of work would you have thought about putting another make/brand in? I don't envy you at all for the nest of wires you had to chew through in order for this project to come out as nice as it has.
O and nice shop. It makes it a lot easier to stop and pickup again for projects like this doesn't it.
Keep up the good work and motivation it will be sure to put a big smile on your face when your passing a gasser!

Om606w201

04-16-2016, 01:19 PM #4

EmJay

Holset

299

04-16-2016, 01:42 PM #5

Epic job mate! When it comes time for me to rebuild my om617a I might just go this route and buy a wrecked diesel. Hopefully by then I will have my own garage/shop with plenty of space Smile

This post was last modified: 04-16-2016, 01:43 PM by EmJay.

1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans Smile

1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now

EmJay

04-16-2016, 01:42 PM #5

Epic job mate! When it comes time for me to rebuild my om617a I might just go this route and buy a wrecked diesel. Hopefully by then I will have my own garage/shop with plenty of space Smile

1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans Smile

1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now

M-ic

W201 OM605/722.6 fully electronic

15

04-17-2016, 07:02 AM #6

Stunning job. I'm a big fan of this kind of conversion, and yours is great.....

M-ic

04-17-2016, 07:02 AM #6

Stunning job. I'm a big fan of this kind of conversion, and yours is great.....

Sultzi

GT2256V

102

04-17-2016, 10:30 AM #7

Nice project, have been also thinking about 320cdi conversion to 124 or 123 for a daily, but still happy with om606 so that can wait.

Good if propshaft feels alright (how fast you have driven?), because it's not aligned right (should have done before welding back yoke in place). You always need to have both ends in the exact same position with each other. You have maybe 45degree difference between them looking from the pics..

Like this
[Image: DriveShaft_Alignment_Picture.jpg]

[Image: DriveShaft_Alignment_Picture.jpg]

Sultzi

04-17-2016, 10:30 AM #7

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

04-21-2016, 08:47 AM #8

Very kewl

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

04-21-2016, 08:47 AM #8

Very kewl

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Petar

7.5mm M pump

459

04-21-2016, 10:52 AM #9

Just grind off every second tooth on the front wheel abs reluctor, it has already been done and it's working:
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...p?tid=6784

Petar

04-21-2016, 10:52 AM #9

Just grind off every second tooth on the front wheel abs reluctor, it has already been done and it's working:
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...p?tid=6784

Tobulus

GT2256V

136

04-22-2016, 02:47 AM #10

Yes, works fine. I got the Infornation from someone else that new generation r129 have a flange, that fits w124 and w201 and also has 48 teeth

Tobulus

04-22-2016, 02:47 AM #10

Yes, works fine. I got the Infornation from someone else that new generation r129 have a flange, that fits w124 and w201 and also has 48 teeth

pryantcc

TA 0301

63

04-22-2016, 10:06 AM #11

Great project and a very interesting write-up. Nice one!

1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.

pryantcc

04-22-2016, 10:06 AM #11

Great project and a very interesting write-up. Nice one!

1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.

North_Star

Naturally-aspirated

24

04-24-2016, 10:55 AM #12

(04-16-2016, 01:19 PM)Om606w201 There we go these are the types of posts and builds we all need to see more of around here. I like how you routed the charge pipe down through the passenger wheel well. Looks clean. After all that work of try to adapt the rear diff. over would you do it again? Is the w210 diff really that much stronger? For the amount of work would you have thought about putting another make/brand in? I don't envy you at all for the nest of wires you had to chew through in order for this project to come out as nice as it has.
O and nice shop. It makes it a lot easier to stop and pickup again for projects like this doesn't it.
Keep up the good work and motivation it will be sure to put a big smile on your face when your passing a gasser!

Thank you for your kind words!
As far as the diff goes, I'm glad it's in now. I would have probably chosen another route if I were to do it over, but I appreciate what I have learned.
The shop has been a dream since I was 8. This summer, the shop is the project, that means new windows ans epoxy on the floor.

(04-16-2016, 01:42 PM)EmJay Epic job mate! When it comes time for me to rebuild my om617a I might just go this route and buy a wrecked diesel. Hopefully by then I will have my own garage/shop with plenty of space

Much appreciated, thanks Smile

(04-17-2016, 07:02 AM)M-ic Stunning job. I'm a big fan of this kind of conversion, and yours is great.....

Mange tak!

(04-17-2016, 10:30 AM)Sultzi Nice project, have been also thinking about 320cdi conversion to 124 or 123 for a daily, but still happy with om606 so that can wait.

Good if propshaft feels alright (how fast you have driven?), because it's not aligned right (should have done before welding back yoke in place). You always need to have both ends in the exact same position with each other. You have maybe 45degree difference between them looking from the pics..

Like this

Thank you so much for your input - I grabbed the bull by the horns and corrected my mistake a couple of days after.

[Image: VckuSn.jpg]

This shouldn't be far off, right?

(04-21-2016, 08:47 AM)Hario Very kewl

Thanks mate

(04-21-2016, 10:52 AM)Petar Just grind off every second tooth on the front wheel abs reluctor, it has already been done and it's working:
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...p?tid=6784

Ya...I thought about that very option, but I really didn't feel like doing that job - and since I have a lathe at my disposal, I opted for a set of W168 ABS rings, 68,9 mm inner, 73 mm outer. If you machine the original teeth off, it fits like a glove:

[Image: 6JOQ7I.jpg]

Ring fitted. Lines up perfectly with the sensor - but the sensor needs to be moves 1 mm further away from the ring.
[Image: aGixj6.jpg]

(04-22-2016, 02:47 AM)Tobulus Yes, works fine. I got the Infornation from someone else that new generation r129 have a flange, that fits w124 and w201 and also has 48 teeth

I have no doubt at all that it would work without a hitch. BTW I am hugely impressed with your project.

(04-22-2016, 10:06 AM)pryantcc Great project and a very interesting write-up. Nice one!

Thank you very much!

North_Star

04-24-2016, 10:55 AM #12

(04-16-2016, 01:19 PM)Om606w201 There we go these are the types of posts and builds we all need to see more of around here. I like how you routed the charge pipe down through the passenger wheel well. Looks clean. After all that work of try to adapt the rear diff. over would you do it again? Is the w210 diff really that much stronger? For the amount of work would you have thought about putting another make/brand in? I don't envy you at all for the nest of wires you had to chew through in order for this project to come out as nice as it has.
O and nice shop. It makes it a lot easier to stop and pickup again for projects like this doesn't it.
Keep up the good work and motivation it will be sure to put a big smile on your face when your passing a gasser!

(04-16-2016, 01:42 PM)EmJay Epic job mate! When it comes time for me to rebuild my om617a I might just go this route and buy a wrecked diesel. Hopefully by then I will have my own garage/shop with plenty of space

Much appreciated, thanks Smile

(04-17-2016, 07:02 AM)M-ic Stunning job. I'm a big fan of this kind of conversion, and yours is great.....

Mange tak!

(04-17-2016, 10:30 AM)Sultzi Nice project, have been also thinking about 320cdi conversion to 124 or 123 for a daily, but still happy with om606 so that can wait.

Good if propshaft feels alright (how fast you have driven?), because it's not aligned right (should have done before welding back yoke in place). You always need to have both ends in the exact same position with each other. You have maybe 45degree difference between them looking from the pics..

Like this

Thank you so much for your input - I grabbed the bull by the horns and corrected my mistake a couple of days after.

[Image: VckuSn.jpg]

This shouldn't be far off, right?

(04-21-2016, 08:47 AM)Hario Very kewl

Thanks mate

(04-21-2016, 10:52 AM)Petar Just grind off every second tooth on the front wheel abs reluctor, it has already been done and it's working:
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...p?tid=6784

Ring fitted. Lines up perfectly with the sensor - but the sensor needs to be moves 1 mm further away from the ring.
[Image: aGixj6.jpg]

(04-22-2016, 02:47 AM)Tobulus Yes, works fine. I got the Infornation from someone else that new generation r129 have a flange, that fits w124 and w201 and also has 48 teeth

I have no doubt at all that it would work without a hitch. BTW I am hugely impressed with your project.

(04-22-2016, 10:06 AM)pryantcc Great project and a very interesting write-up. Nice one!

Thank you very much!

North_Star

Naturally-aspirated

24

04-24-2016, 11:55 AM #13

I'll keep going picture-heavy:

I wanted the horn to function from the original switches (4 pcs.). The airbag part of the the steering wheel holds 8 buttons and the 4 for the horn - but the airbag itself is decommissioned. That means a spare set of wires. The signal is carried by the traces in the steering angle sensor band - which means high resistance, which in turn means not so high current can be carried. But it is good and plenty for activating a relay

[Image: R32dky.jpg]

Steering angle sensor side
[Image: wJFcut.jpg]

Simple, cheap relay wired up to fire the horn. It works great.
[Image: CB1LiS.jpg]

As Tobulus said in his project thread, it is like building LEGO. Very dirty, expensive LEGO at that. The EIS fits right in the orifice of the dash, just fitted it.
[Image: x6TPg2.jpg]

Slowly but surely, it is beginning to look like the interior of a passenger car again. Steering wheel, instrument cluster and EGS are from W210
[Image: tSGFyF.jpg]

The cable trays on the floorpan are very practical for stuffing away wiring.
[Image: B1KwXx.jpg]

...but I'm sure they didn't have my build in mind when they made the trays. I spent 3 x 3 hours cleaning up this corner. NOT a happy camper during that.
[Image: HdsnCm.jpg]

A SuperTurboDiesel user brought it to my attention that I had aligned the prop shaft wrong. Thank you again for pointing that out to me, I might have chased my own tail for God knows how long trying to figure out where vibrations came from.
[Image: jKxiui.jpg]

TBH I would have preferred a more discrete rear box, but this is what was in stock. [Image: gEGlw4.jpg]

Diesel style tail pipe, of course.
[Image: g25CmK.jpg]

Final fit. It is really nice and quiet now, and has a pretty sweet exhaust note standing outside of it.
[Image: jxyPOe.jpg]

I needed to remove a bracket for the handbrake, since the prop shaft interfered with it under acceleration. Removal was entirely destructive, so I had to fashion a new one.
[Image: Pp2Dp0.jpg]

A few holes, some filing and some cutting, and the bracket can't be distinguished from the original one.
[Image: fuOnPi.jpg]

Finally the foot well on driver's side is done and dusted. Hope to never have to do that again!
[Image: Yc0Zpl.jpg]

I was feeling uncomfortable with having the ECUs outside, so I put in the work to bring them indoors. It casts me the glove compartment, but I find it to be a good trade-off.
[Image: YGqWzV.jpg]

The ECUs will JUST fit, however I had to carefully saw off the brackets for the ESP-ECU for it to finally fit. I will make a set of shelves to allow better cooling, as I fear it may otherwise become too hot. If I struggle with high temperatures, I will fit the air blower from the W210. Simple stuff Cool

Did a fair bit of research on tranmission fluids an levels, and came to the conclusion that I may have overfilled the transmission at an earlier stage. The tranny acted a little peculiar, so I thought I would check it out. Heated the transmission to 80 degrees (selected 'D' and pulled the handbrake really hard). Then measured - waaay too much fluid. I let out a liter, and put 2 deciliters back in. That means 0,8 liters of fluid...and the change in behaviour was really significant, especially when going from N or P into R or D. Great stuff! And the DCU100 - priceless bit of gear to have
[Image: FXQ7Nd.jpg]

Just found it amazing that the ESP ECU could diagnose something as ludicrous as that (I mean C1500)
[Image: aYfRqG.jpg]

This calms my mind, it has taken some effort to get to here; no faults, no alarms, no beeping...zen moment!
[Image: 6tF3Sk.jpg]

Guess that means I have come full circle - this picture resembles the one I took before I began last year.
[Image: xhIUb1.jpg]

Now? License plates and lots of testing, with the diagnostics tester and in old-school style. I am convinced I face some challenges with the driveline. A few custom parts stille need to be fitted to the dash, but everything is back where it came from, with minor exceptions due to narrow space constraints.

Thanks for watching!

North_Star

04-24-2016, 11:55 AM #13

Over the last few days I have been putting in some time. Really wanted the project to come close enough for road trials to begin. Main concern is the prop shaft and the drive shafts. It all works - it is only a matter of how well Confused

I'll keep going picture-heavy:

I wanted the horn to function from the original switches (4 pcs.). The airbag part of the the steering wheel holds 8 buttons and the 4 for the horn - but the airbag itself is decommissioned. That means a spare set of wires. The signal is carried by the traces in the steering angle sensor band - which means high resistance, which in turn means not so high current can be carried. But it is good and plenty for activating a relay

[Image: R32dky.jpg]

Steering angle sensor side
[Image: wJFcut.jpg]

Simple, cheap relay wired up to fire the horn. It works great.
[Image: CB1LiS.jpg]

As Tobulus said in his project thread, it is like building LEGO. Very dirty, expensive LEGO at that. The EIS fits right in the orifice of the dash, just fitted it.
[Image: x6TPg2.jpg]

Slowly but surely, it is beginning to look like the interior of a passenger car again. Steering wheel, instrument cluster and EGS are from W210
[Image: tSGFyF.jpg]

The cable trays on the floorpan are very practical for stuffing away wiring.
[Image: B1KwXx.jpg]

...but I'm sure they didn't have my build in mind when they made the trays. I spent 3 x 3 hours cleaning up this corner. NOT a happy camper during that.
[Image: HdsnCm.jpg]

A SuperTurboDiesel user brought it to my attention that I had aligned the prop shaft wrong. Thank you again for pointing that out to me, I might have chased my own tail for God knows how long trying to figure out where vibrations came from.
[Image: jKxiui.jpg]

TBH I would have preferred a more discrete rear box, but this is what was in stock. [Image: gEGlw4.jpg]

Diesel style tail pipe, of course.
[Image: g25CmK.jpg]

Final fit. It is really nice and quiet now, and has a pretty sweet exhaust note standing outside of it.
[Image: jxyPOe.jpg]

I needed to remove a bracket for the handbrake, since the prop shaft interfered with it under acceleration. Removal was entirely destructive, so I had to fashion a new one.
[Image: Pp2Dp0.jpg]

A few holes, some filing and some cutting, and the bracket can't be distinguished from the original one.
[Image: fuOnPi.jpg]

Finally the foot well on driver's side is done and dusted. Hope to never have to do that again!
[Image: Yc0Zpl.jpg]

I was feeling uncomfortable with having the ECUs outside, so I put in the work to bring them indoors. It casts me the glove compartment, but I find it to be a good trade-off.
[Image: YGqWzV.jpg]

The ECUs will JUST fit, however I had to carefully saw off the brackets for the ESP-ECU for it to finally fit. I will make a set of shelves to allow better cooling, as I fear it may otherwise become too hot. If I struggle with high temperatures, I will fit the air blower from the W210. Simple stuff Cool
[Image: 9pie1a.jpg]

Did a fair bit of research on tranmission fluids an levels, and came to the conclusion that I may have overfilled the transmission at an earlier stage. The tranny acted a little peculiar, so I thought I would check it out. Heated the transmission to 80 degrees (selected 'D' and pulled the handbrake really hard). Then measured - waaay too much fluid. I let out a liter, and put 2 deciliters back in. That means 0,8 liters of fluid...and the change in behaviour was really significant, especially when going from N or P into R or D. Great stuff! And the DCU100 - priceless bit of gear to have
[Image: FXQ7Nd.jpg]

Just found it amazing that the ESP ECU could diagnose something as ludicrous as that (I mean C1500)
[Image: aYfRqG.jpg]

This calms my mind, it has taken some effort to get to here; no faults, no alarms, no beeping...zen moment!
[Image: 6tF3Sk.jpg]

Guess that means I have come full circle - this picture resembles the one I took before I began last year.
[Image: xhIUb1.jpg]

Now? License plates and lots of testing, with the diagnostics tester and in old-school style. I am convinced I face some challenges with the driveline. A few custom parts stille need to be fitted to the dash, but everything is back where it came from, with minor exceptions due to narrow space constraints.

Thanks for watching!

starynovy

Holset

338

04-25-2016, 10:09 AM #14

Some fab skills man. Good work.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW

starynovy

04-25-2016, 10:09 AM #14

Some fab skills man. Good work.

hooblah

Holset

401

04-25-2016, 12:44 PM #15

Amazing. Well done for not giving up.

hooblah

04-25-2016, 12:44 PM #15

Amazing. Well done for not giving up.

Max

Turbinaaa

87

04-25-2016, 01:40 PM #16

WOW. Really amazing Project !!!

Kepp up the good Work Smile

Greets

Max

______________________________________________________________
93´ W124 300TDT -> OM606.962 / RS 203 Dieselmeken 7,5mm 210cc / KKK K14 / Stock Transmission / 2,65 ASD
89´ 190D 2.5 Turbo -> OM605.960 / Dieselmeken 7,5mm 180cc / Holset HX30 Super / 716. 654 6-Speed / 2,87 Rear Axle

Max

04-25-2016, 01:40 PM #16

WOW. Really amazing Project !!!

Kepp up the good Work Smile

Greets

Max

EDH_Performance

Holset

537

04-26-2016, 12:17 AM #17

Hhaha, awsome build!!! You are just like me...Not afraid of trying Smile

Like all your custom solutions, look like you have enough sparetime!
Do you have some video of driving?

EDH_Performance

04-26-2016, 12:17 AM #17

Hhaha, awsome build!!! You are just like me...Not afraid of trying Smile Like all your custom solutions, look like you have enough sparetime!
Do you have some video of driving?

Sultzi

GT2256V

102

04-30-2016, 03:47 AM #18

Very nice and good you sorted that propshaft out! Propshaft vibrations are a pain in the ass to have.

Sultzi

04-30-2016, 03:47 AM #18

Very nice and good you sorted that propshaft out! Propshaft vibrations are a pain in the ass to have.

North_Star

Naturally-aspirated

24

05-03-2016, 11:37 AM #19

Thanks everyone, means a lot!

Status: Engine is tits up after 50 km. Currently in the process of taking top end apart to figure out how bad the situation is - I cannot believe this! Will post pictures when I stop crying.
Started engine, ran on 5 cylinders, then loud rattling and the engine vibrated massively. I hope I find the issue in top end. Injector 6 was a bi*** to remove, but I got it to budge with a huge home built slide hammer. Tomorrow my 7 mm inspection camera arrives, and I hope to be able to asses the damage without ripping the head off the engine.

Send encouragement!

North_Star

05-03-2016, 11:37 AM #19

seanyt

is300d He351ve

279

05-03-2016, 01:44 PM #20

hopefully you get out handy. You've done a great job.
Take plenty of skills to get to where you are now.

its easy to lose heart in something the longer you work on it but when its running and your enjoying it.
Then all the work was worth it.

seanyt

05-03-2016, 01:44 PM #20

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

05-04-2016, 07:02 AM #21

My bet is bits of rust got in an injector line

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

05-04-2016, 07:02 AM #21

My bet is bits of rust got in an injector line

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

North_Star

Naturally-aspirated

24

05-04-2016, 03:52 PM #22

That leaves no 6....
I built a slide hammer out of the top of a scrap injector I had from an OM611, and some pipe. I had a large nut and a lump of steel to fit around it. I hit the damn thing so many times that my right hand trembled the following morning. It wouldn't budge.
[Image: 716yoY.jpg]

My coping mechanism: Slushy cold coke and a sit-down.
[Image: bFuuuN.jpg]

The next day I thought I would follow intelligent philosophy: If it doesn't work, use a larger hammer. So I built one...
[Image: gn20wW.jpg]

To my huge surprise; 3 whacks with this hammer, and the injector was out - unharmed. Pretty impressive material selection by Merc.
[Image: j1xwIt.jpg]

So far so good. I was honestly expecting to find a problem here, but that just was not the case. Cams, lifters etc. were fine. Buckets a little worn, but but passed inspection and testing. I looked into how to put the engine on timing marks, which is really straight forward. So on it goes...
[Image: KvamPr.jpg]

Something has gone wrong here. I haven't cleaned it up too well because it is a waste of time, but you might be able to see some damage to the head.
[Image: 4UyAhN.jpg]

Oh...there it is. Debris caused this, and I am convincing myself that it is half of a swirl flap. Goodnight, engine.
[Image: 1JPaKq.jpg]

Here's the debris. It takes only so little to bash an engine.
[Image: A3cndr.jpg]

Size isn't way off... But in honesty, it could be anything.
[Image: FJtsqe.jpg]

So two possibilities:
A: Give up and cry about it
B: Rip the engine out, fit a new one and smoke some rubber.

I always choose option B Cool

That will also give me a chance for a little more cleaning up in the engine bay, if I'm to look on the bright side of things.

I am still under the conviction that this is an unusually strong engine, given that it is not force fed with metal parts. Will update when I get the shipment and get going on this again.

Thanks for your interest.

North_Star

05-04-2016, 03:52 PM #22

Time for an update following the panic.

There's no way around a new engine. Allow me to explain:

I needed to take the valve cover off for inspection, that means taking all injectors out. 1-2-3-4-5 went surprisingly well.
[Image: tPEDDA.jpg]

That leaves no 6....
I built a slide hammer out of the top of a scrap injector I had from an OM611, and some pipe. I had a large nut and a lump of steel to fit around it. I hit the damn thing so many times that my right hand trembled the following morning. It wouldn't budge.
[Image: 716yoY.jpg]

My coping mechanism: Slushy cold coke and a sit-down.
[Image: bFuuuN.jpg]

The next day I thought I would follow intelligent philosophy: If it doesn't work, use a larger hammer. So I built one...
[Image: gn20wW.jpg]

To my huge surprise; 3 whacks with this hammer, and the injector was out - unharmed. Pretty impressive material selection by Merc.
[Image: j1xwIt.jpg]

So far so good. I was honestly expecting to find a problem here, but that just was not the case. Cams, lifters etc. were fine. Buckets a little worn, but but passed inspection and testing. I looked into how to put the engine on timing marks, which is really straight forward. So on it goes...
[Image: KvamPr.jpg]

Something has gone wrong here. I haven't cleaned it up too well because it is a waste of time, but you might be able to see some damage to the head.
[Image: 4UyAhN.jpg]

Oh...there it is. Debris caused this, and I am convincing myself that it is half of a swirl flap. Goodnight, engine.
[Image: 1JPaKq.jpg]

Here's the debris. It takes only so little to bash an engine.
[Image: A3cndr.jpg]

Size isn't way off... But in honesty, it could be anything.
[Image: FJtsqe.jpg]

So two possibilities:
A: Give up and cry about it
B: Rip the engine out, fit a new one and smoke some rubber.

I always choose option B Cool

That will also give me a chance for a little more cleaning up in the engine bay, if I'm to look on the bright side of things.

I am still under the conviction that this is an unusually strong engine, given that it is not force fed with metal parts. Will update when I get the shipment and get going on this again.

Thanks for your interest.

Max

Turbinaaa

87

05-04-2016, 06:07 PM #23

I feel with you.

I changed my Engine three Times until it runs well.

But it was worth it, so keep on going !!!

Greets

Max

Max

05-04-2016, 06:07 PM #23

I feel with you.

I changed my Engine three Times until it runs well.

But it was worth it, so keep on going !!!

Greets

Max

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

05-05-2016, 03:01 AM #24

Hey mate let me know if you need to source a cheap long block, they are dirt cheap in our land! (UK).

https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/331770033703

Beers.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

05-05-2016, 03:01 AM #24

Hey mate let me know if you need to source a cheap long block, they are dirt cheap in our land! (UK).

https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/331770033703

Beers.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

North_Star

Naturally-aspirated

24

05-05-2016, 03:31 AM #25

Mate, I bought that exact one yesterday - to be more precise, I bought three off him, as I will then try to cover my costs with the other two. You will never find an OM613 cheaper than 1000GBP here in Denmark.
So it is normal to get a good runner for that price in UK!?

North_Star

05-05-2016, 03:31 AM #25

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

05-05-2016, 06:40 AM #26

(05-05-2016, 03:31 AM)North_Star Mate, I bought that exact one yesterday - to be more precise, I bought three off him, as I will then try to cover my costs with the other two. You will never find an OM613 cheaper than 1000GBP here in Denmark.
So it is normal to get a good runner for that price in UK!?

lol. Good times.

Yes they are dirt cheap because nobody wants them or knows what to do with them, and there are loads of the 5-6 cyl Mercedes here.

The 606 is only just starting to get more expensive because of demand but still only £300 ish each.

If only there was a DIY cdi ecu..!

This post was last modified: 05-05-2016, 06:41 AM by Hario'.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

05-05-2016, 06:40 AM #26

(05-05-2016, 03:31 AM)North_Star Mate, I bought that exact one yesterday - to be more precise, I bought three off him, as I will then try to cover my costs with the other two. You will never find an OM613 cheaper than 1000GBP here in Denmark.
So it is normal to get a good runner for that price in UK!?

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

North_Star

Naturally-aspirated

24

05-05-2016, 07:25 AM #27

Well...the closest we are going to get is Bosch Motorsports, and that is NOT a cheap ECU. I'd like to have an open programmable ECU, but I don't see it happening anytime soon.

North_Star

05-05-2016, 07:25 AM #27

That's great, thanks for that info - I was a little worried they could be from stolen cars or just bad engines, but seems everything should be ok.

Yeah, the 606 is reaching cult status many places Tongue

Well...the closest we are going to get is Bosch Motorsports, and that is NOT a cheap ECU. I'd like to have an open programmable ECU, but I don't see it happening anytime soon.

bmartins

GTA2056V

75

05-06-2016, 01:14 PM #28

Congratulations.....Very well done...
Keep working....

bmartins

05-06-2016, 01:14 PM #28

Congratulations.....Very well done...
Keep working....

Lucian189

Naturally-aspirated

11

05-08-2016, 12:15 PM #29

Great project..hope all ends well with the new engine

Lucian189

05-08-2016, 12:15 PM #29

Great project..hope all ends well with the new engine

North_Star

Naturally-aspirated

24

05-08-2016, 03:53 PM #30

(05-06-2016, 01:14 PM)bmartins Congratulations.....Very well done...
Keep working....

Thank you very much. I will push on regardless

(05-08-2016, 12:15 PM)Lucian189 Great project..hope all ends well with the new engine

Much appreciated Smile

I am waiting for the new engine like a kid on Christmas eve. Hope it will arrive this week!

I thought I would just rip the engine out so everything is ready for arrival of the new engine.
[Image: 7IDNqh.jpg]

I threw in a couple of head bolts and used the lugs on the leveler to lift the engine. An hour all in all to pull it, so no biggie.
[Image: Od3aR7.jpg]

I am going to leave the remaining ancillaries on the engine until I get the replacement, as that makes it very easy to fit everything in the right place.
[Image: 7m41z3.jpg]

All that remains is the wait...patience.

North_Star

05-08-2016, 03:53 PM #30

(05-06-2016, 01:14 PM)bmartins Congratulations.....Very well done...
Keep working....

Thank you very much. I will push on regardless

(05-08-2016, 12:15 PM)Lucian189 Great project..hope all ends well with the new engine

Much appreciated Smile

I threw in a couple of head bolts and used the lugs on the leveler to lift the engine. An hour all in all to pull it, so no biggie.
[Image: Od3aR7.jpg]

I am going to leave the remaining ancillaries on the engine until I get the replacement, as that makes it very easy to fit everything in the right place.
[Image: 7m41z3.jpg]

All that remains is the wait...patience.

North_Star

Naturally-aspirated

24

05-24-2016, 03:41 PM #31

I rigged the 'best' engine in my engine stand in order to get it prepared for fitting all auxillaries and throwing it in the car. It did not go that smoothly

I ended up deciding to take the engine apart before fitting it to the car. It will cost me some time and a head gasket, but that way I will know for sure what state the engine is in. Also, I convinced myself that I could hear a little bit of air escaping through the inlet valves during my non scientific compression tests.

AFTER grinding all valves and cleaning the head of the first engine, I noticed this:
[Image: 5izNg8.jpg]

See that small scratch on the left side? That just grew HUGE in my head. I pondered over it overnight, and that same evening I took apart the next engine.

I could not believe what I found:
[Image: 15lsMR.jpg]

So the choice was clear, that engine was the one to go with. I don't know if the engine has low mileage or just EXCELLENT lubrication history, but it was perfect for me. Surprisingly though, the intake channels were gunked up with soot from EGR, and some of it had fallen onto the piston crowns, even... I paid my neighbor's kid to clean it up thoroughly.
After that, I ground the valves. By this time, I has plenty of experience, as I had JUST done the 24 valve on the first engine...

[Image: TphGRY.jpg]

My experience with buying used engines is (now anyways) that the valves need grinding, as the valve and valve seat have a tendency the have some surface corrosion from standing still. Wasn't bad to do on these engines, just time consuming.

New Elring head gasket and stretch bolts to torque it down
[Image: YARRmF.jpg]

Cylinder head ready to rock
[Image: rZ7ytr.jpg]

Timing marks on the sprockets
[Image: CwSd7Z.jpg]

"Special locking pin" in place
[Image: VBVA3K.jpg]

Starting once again to look like an engine
[Image: tx9LVK.jpg]

It really suits my OCD well to have it cleaned up just a little. I bought all new gaskets, seals and O-rings for everything.
[Image: cBZej1.jpg]

All the pumps are fitted again
[Image: bBPrXh.jpg]

This engine had had a leaking injector - now that is all cleaned up, new flame seals, bolts and everything torqued to spec.
[Image: 8KUVpv.jpg]

A little more of the injectors
[Image: HE3SoT.jpg]

Just about ready to drop in
[Image: 99qN7J.jpg]

From the other side
[Image: FieoIC.jpg]

Deja vu - I've done this quite a few times
[Image: 8O4Yzr.jpg]

While I was waiting for the engine(s) to arrive, I got around to a little tidying up in the engine bay - which was severely needed. I was surprised to learn that the insulation plate between engine and cabin would fit at all
[Image: aPU6u9.jpg]

Hoisting time
[Image: rftL1b.jpg]

...and back in place. I even took the opportunity to realign the engine a little, now it just sits perfectly straight.
[Image: OlJZGR.jpg]

Underneath you might never know that this engine wasn't fitted from Stuttgart
[Image: QDN6hH.jpg]

Startup after a build like this is always shit-your-pants-time for me.
I removed the glow plugs, and made myself a wire going to the actuation of the starter motor. Filled the engine with oil and water, and then ran it on the starter motor until I was satisfied some oil pressure had been established. Then I removed one of the lines for an injector, and ran the starter motor just a little more. Surprisingly, fuel came out pretty quickly - ready for startup. Fitted the glowplugs and spun it on the key - 8 revolutions, and it came to life on all 6 - sounding significantly better than the old one.
This sight never seizes to thrill me: No alarms from ESP og engine management. LOVE it.

[Image: 6QRQ9E.jpg]

Next up: Getting the prop shaft professionally cut, aligned and balanced. Driving me crazy...
I hope this was the last I have to do to engine internals - this was not planned, obviously. I can only be thankful for what I have learned, and the fact that I have improved the car.
Thanks for your attention

North_Star

05-24-2016, 03:41 PM #31

Time for an update gents!

I got the engines, I bought from UK. Shipping did not take long. I bought a few, since shipping was a little costly, I thought I might as well fill up the pallet.
Two engines bare, one with injectors

[Image: IG9gyo.jpg]

I rigged the 'best' engine in my engine stand in order to get it prepared for fitting all auxillaries and throwing it in the car. It did not go that smoothly

I ended up deciding to take the engine apart before fitting it to the car. It will cost me some time and a head gasket, but that way I will know for sure what state the engine is in. Also, I convinced myself that I could hear a little bit of air escaping through the inlet valves during my non scientific compression tests.

AFTER grinding all valves and cleaning the head of the first engine, I noticed this:
[Image: 5izNg8.jpg]

See that small scratch on the left side? That just grew HUGE in my head. I pondered over it overnight, and that same evening I took apart the next engine.

I could not believe what I found:
[Image: 15lsMR.jpg]
[Image: q8FY57.jpg]
[Image: OubOZe.jpg]
[Image: tpfGyR.jpg]
[Image: NjhCM2.jpg]
[Image: UTa62W.jpg]
[Image: SO3HdW.jpg]
[Image: 1ar3c9.jpg]
[Image: bof3tF.jpg]
[Image: NbqhJW.jpg]

So the choice was clear, that engine was the one to go with. I don't know if the engine has low mileage or just EXCELLENT lubrication history, but it was perfect for me. Surprisingly though, the intake channels were gunked up with soot from EGR, and some of it had fallen onto the piston crowns, even... I paid my neighbor's kid to clean it up thoroughly.
After that, I ground the valves. By this time, I has plenty of experience, as I had JUST done the 24 valve on the first engine...

[Image: TphGRY.jpg]
[Image: 86hWz5.jpg]

My experience with buying used engines is (now anyways) that the valves need grinding, as the valve and valve seat have a tendency the have some surface corrosion from standing still. Wasn't bad to do on these engines, just time consuming.

New Elring head gasket and stretch bolts to torque it down
[Image: YARRmF.jpg]

Cylinder head ready to rock
[Image: rZ7ytr.jpg]

Timing marks on the sprockets
[Image: CwSd7Z.jpg]

"Special locking pin" in place
[Image: VBVA3K.jpg]

Starting once again to look like an engine
[Image: tx9LVK.jpg]

It really suits my OCD well to have it cleaned up just a little. I bought all new gaskets, seals and O-rings for everything.
[Image: cBZej1.jpg]

All the pumps are fitted again
[Image: bBPrXh.jpg]

This engine had had a leaking injector - now that is all cleaned up, new flame seals, bolts and everything torqued to spec.
[Image: 8KUVpv.jpg]

A little more of the injectors
[Image: HE3SoT.jpg]

Just about ready to drop in
[Image: 99qN7J.jpg]

From the other side
[Image: FieoIC.jpg]

Deja vu - I've done this quite a few times
[Image: 8O4Yzr.jpg]

While I was waiting for the engine(s) to arrive, I got around to a little tidying up in the engine bay - which was severely needed. I was surprised to learn that the insulation plate between engine and cabin would fit at all
[Image: aPU6u9.jpg]

Hoisting time
[Image: rftL1b.jpg]

...and back in place. I even took the opportunity to realign the engine a little, now it just sits perfectly straight.
[Image: OlJZGR.jpg]

Underneath you might never know that this engine wasn't fitted from Stuttgart
[Image: QDN6hH.jpg]

Startup after a build like this is always shit-your-pants-time for me.
I removed the glow plugs, and made myself a wire going to the actuation of the starter motor. Filled the engine with oil and water, and then ran it on the starter motor until I was satisfied some oil pressure had been established. Then I removed one of the lines for an injector, and ran the starter motor just a little more. Surprisingly, fuel came out pretty quickly - ready for startup. Fitted the glowplugs and spun it on the key - 8 revolutions, and it came to life on all 6 - sounding significantly better than the old one.
This sight never seizes to thrill me: No alarms from ESP og engine management. LOVE it.

[Image: 6QRQ9E.jpg]

Next up: Getting the prop shaft professionally cut, aligned and balanced. Driving me crazy...
I hope this was the last I have to do to engine internals - this was not planned, obviously. I can only be thankful for what I have learned, and the fact that I have improved the car.
Thanks for your attention

-Mackan-

GT2256V

117

05-26-2016, 03:34 AM #32

Very impressive build!

------------------------------------------------
Cars currently owned:

1993 Mercedes Benz 300TDT W124
1992 Mercedes Benz 500E W124

-Mackan-

05-26-2016, 03:34 AM #32

Very impressive build!

------------------------------------------------
Cars currently owned:

1993 Mercedes Benz 300TDT W124
1992 Mercedes Benz 500E W124

AlanMcR

mind - blown

400

09-12-2017, 05:12 PM #33

Updates please!

AlanMcR

09-12-2017, 05:12 PM #33

Updates please!

North_Star

Naturally-aspirated

24

11-02-2018, 04:21 AM #34

(09-12-2017, 05:12 PM)AlanMcR Updates please!

I just read through this post myself. Honestly can't believe I ever found the time for something as crazy as this. The car has been sitting a while, but I still own it. I bought a new house with a great workshop, so I will get it back to life soon.

I have the following challenges:
0,5 A consumption when the car is OFF
I need a flexible bracket for the front of the rear diff, as it keeps twisting the one I made loose.
Vibration from rear left driveshaft, needs straightening.
A little leaking from the PS pump.

When I think about it, these issues are microscopic in the scope of the entire project, so I will get them sorted out and get the car back on the road.

North_Star

11-02-2018, 04:21 AM #34

(09-12-2017, 05:12 PM)AlanMcR Updates please!

500sl
Unregistered

08-21-2023, 09:49 PM #35

(04-16-2016, 09:29 AM)North_Star This was quite a bit of work. The stock intercooler will not actually fit, but I modified it slightly, and then angled it somewhat, just allowing it to fit without cutting the bumper.

Test fitted the bumper to make sure I wasn't destroying aesthetics. I can live with that.

New fuel lines and brake lines. I needed to run an extra line to the back, as it was only a single brake line before. I used the brackets from the W210, but I needed to shorten then to fit only there 4 lines (there were 6 slots in the stock one)

As mentioned earlier, the VNT actuator interfered with the vehicle body. I modified the bracket and actuator arm

Finished plumbing to go from intercooler to intake manifold

Did quite a bit of TIG that day. The other two pipes are for turbo to intercooler, and for cooling water from thermostat housing to radiator inlet.

Plumbing from turbo to intercooler fitted

Plumbing from intercooler to intake done and dusted

Fitted the reservoir for the central hydraulics. The only hydraulics in mine is the power steering, but the donor came with active suspension. that means the hydraulic pump has two outputs.

Invested a little more time in the prop shaft. The bearing needs a place to stand, the means modifying the bracket from the W210. I built these to weld to the car's body

Then I built a bracket to go across. I ended up having to move this forward, we'll get to that.

A finished driveshaft, lubed and booted

After I got the car to start, I found out that the ESP system needs to see the PML valve. That is the valve that ensures dynamic power steering. I only needed to fit it to the wiring loom, as the signal is only an output.

There's a lot of this. Playing around with the diagnostics equipment, figuring out whether you are getting the correct signals or not. This is how I discovered that the front ABS-reluctor is a 96 tooth on the W201 - that means it will show exactly double the speed it is supposed to. That is being sorted out

I fried a power steering pump. There, I said it! I fitted the connections wrong and paid the price. The power steering pump consists of two pumps, the one you can see on the picture, and a separate positive displacement pump fitted to a split axle. The beautiful part of that is, you can remove the excentric axle for the positive displacement pump, and thereby disable an entire circuit. I did that. I am aware that a pump exists which only supplies pressure for steering, BUT that goes in a different style bracket for the pump. This solution now flies.

Well. Like I have written in earlier, the rear diff could not be centered. That meant that the prop shaft rubber joint would not run straight, and as I've learned from a specialist, the rubber joints must run 100% straight. The answer to this was fitting an additional joint to the prop shaft. I received an offer for carrying out this work, but the price was way to steep, som I ended up taking up the challenge myself.
The first part was modifying the existing flange for the rear diff.

These are all the parts I bought for the modification of the prop shaft

I started out by cutting the three arms off of the flange with an angle grinder. Then aligned the flange 100% straight in the lathe and machined it down to fit with the new flange.

Ready for the 4-bolt flange

I bored out a corresponding hole in the flange to fit, and made sure it was a fairly tight fit. Then welded it from the backside in a few places

After that, full bead welding inside the flange (TIG). In this picture I have take 2 mm off of the weld on the recess, it is very important for the recess to meet the mating flange perfectly to center it.

After machining the yoke down to suitable size to fit inside the shaft, I welded the yoke to the axle.

All the parts ready to be put together with a new joint.

The replacement pump - this one is one-of, as half of the axle has been removed. It's a good thing I have a girlfriend who lives in Germany so I can have cheap parts shipped to her!

Pressing in the stubs that make up the axle joint. Not too difficult work, even though I have never done this before.

The finished prop shaft. I've driven a few pulls with it, and it works outstanding. Since this picture was taken, the bearing supports have been welded into place, so this is all done now.

The first victim of the monster! No honestly - this was something I destroyed in the bench, the car just finished the job. This is the inner CV joint of the driveshaft, and it died in the hydraulic press, I just never realized it had died.

I built an exhaust from bit and bobs I had laying around. It is a 3" downpipe that merges into 2,5". I have bad experience with loud cars, so this is plenty good for me. I am still missing a muffler for the rear, I think I might have to buy something for that. Again, this will be built quiet and sleepy.

Ready for full bead welding.

Found myself doing math in the workshop to figure out whether the ABS sensors at the back were reading wrong, or it was the ones at the front. Math doesn't lie (unless you are bad at it) - and it turned out the front sensors were reading double of what they should be. The answer was very simple: count the teeth, and remember the ECU is looking for 48 teeth (if you're lazy: 96 teeth). I already purchased 2 ABS rings from a W414 (Vaneo). These will fit when I machine the original teeth away, and I should be ok.

This is the point I am at now. The car starts and drives, but is rather disassembled. I am attacking that now!

Please accept my appreciation if you made it this far! I am finding it extremely hard to find people who will listen to all the details of my story.
Leave a comment or a suggestion. I will keep this thread updated.

North_Star

500sl

08-21-2023, 09:49 PM #35

(04-16-2016, 09:29 AM)North_Star This was quite a bit of work. The stock intercooler will not actually fit, but I modified it slightly, and then angled it somewhat, just allowing it to fit without cutting the bumper.

Test fitted the bumper to make sure I wasn't destroying aesthetics. I can live with that.

New fuel lines and brake lines. I needed to run an extra line to the back, as it was only a single brake line before. I used the brackets from the W210, but I needed to shorten then to fit only there 4 lines (there were 6 slots in the stock one)

As mentioned earlier, the VNT actuator interfered with the vehicle body. I modified the bracket and actuator arm

Finished plumbing to go from intercooler to intake manifold

Did quite a bit of TIG that day. The other two pipes are for turbo to intercooler, and for cooling water from thermostat housing to radiator inlet.

Plumbing from turbo to intercooler fitted

Plumbing from intercooler to intake done and dusted

Fitted the reservoir for the central hydraulics. The only hydraulics in mine is the power steering, but the donor came with active suspension. that means the hydraulic pump has two outputs.

Invested a little more time in the prop shaft. The bearing needs a place to stand, the means modifying the bracket from the W210. I built these to weld to the car's body

Then I built a bracket to go across. I ended up having to move this forward, we'll get to that.

A finished driveshaft, lubed and booted

After I got the car to start, I found out that the ESP system needs to see the PML valve. That is the valve that ensures dynamic power steering. I only needed to fit it to the wiring loom, as the signal is only an output.

There's a lot of this. Playing around with the diagnostics equipment, figuring out whether you are getting the correct signals or not. This is how I discovered that the front ABS-reluctor is a 96 tooth on the W201 - that means it will show exactly double the speed it is supposed to. That is being sorted out

I fried a power steering pump. There, I said it! I fitted the connections wrong and paid the price. The power steering pump consists of two pumps, the one you can see on the picture, and a separate positive displacement pump fitted to a split axle. The beautiful part of that is, you can remove the excentric axle for the positive displacement pump, and thereby disable an entire circuit. I did that. I am aware that a pump exists which only supplies pressure for steering, BUT that goes in a different style bracket for the pump. This solution now flies.

Well. Like I have written in earlier, the rear diff could not be centered. That meant that the prop shaft rubber joint would not run straight, and as I've learned from a specialist, the rubber joints must run 100% straight. The answer to this was fitting an additional joint to the prop shaft. I received an offer for carrying out this work, but the price was way to steep, som I ended up taking up the challenge myself.
The first part was modifying the existing flange for the rear diff.

These are all the parts I bought for the modification of the prop shaft

I started out by cutting the three arms off of the flange with an angle grinder. Then aligned the flange 100% straight in the lathe and machined it down to fit with the new flange.

Ready for the 4-bolt flange

I bored out a corresponding hole in the flange to fit, and made sure it was a fairly tight fit. Then welded it from the backside in a few places

After that, full bead welding inside the flange (TIG). In this picture I have take 2 mm off of the weld on the recess, it is very important for the recess to meet the mating flange perfectly to center it.

After machining the yoke down to suitable size to fit inside the shaft, I welded the yoke to the axle.

All the parts ready to be put together with a new joint.

The replacement pump - this one is one-of, as half of the axle has been removed. It's a good thing I have a girlfriend who lives in Germany so I can have cheap parts shipped to her!

Pressing in the stubs that make up the axle joint. Not too difficult work, even though I have never done this before.

The finished prop shaft. I've driven a few pulls with it, and it works outstanding. Since this picture was taken, the bearing supports have been welded into place, so this is all done now.

The first victim of the monster! No honestly - this was something I destroyed in the bench, the car just finished the job. This is the inner CV joint of the driveshaft, and it died in the hydraulic press, I just never realized it had died.

I built an exhaust from bit and bobs I had laying around. It is a 3" downpipe that merges into 2,5". I have bad experience with loud cars, so this is plenty good for me. I am still missing a muffler for the rear, I think I might have to buy something for that. Again, this will be built quiet and sleepy.

Ready for full bead welding.

Found myself doing math in the workshop to figure out whether the ABS sensors at the back were reading wrong, or it was the ones at the front. Math doesn't lie (unless you are bad at it) - and it turned out the front sensors were reading double of what they should be. The answer was very simple: count the teeth, and remember the ECU is looking for 48 teeth (if you're lazy: 96 teeth). I already purchased 2 ABS rings from a W414 (Vaneo). These will fit when I machine the original teeth away, and I should be ok.

This is the point I am at now. The car starts and drives, but is rather disassembled. I am attacking that now!

Please accept my appreciation if you made it this far! I am finding it extremely hard to find people who will listen to all the details of my story.
Leave a comment or a suggestion. I will keep this thread updated.

North_Star

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