fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start.
fuel leak and a lot of cranking to start.
Hi,
I have just finished my upgrade to a bigger turbo after the car being sat for two weeks without any running.
I came to start the car up yesterday and it took around 5-10 minutes of cranking to get the car started.
I didn't have this problem before I parked it up before the turbo change but the car has always had a leak coming from around the fuel pump. Where would be the most common place for it to leak diesel? the clear lines that go to and from the fuel filter or the delivery valves on the pump?
Thanks.
(07-26-2016, 03:11 AM)LewisG95 Hi,
I have just finished my upgrade to a bigger turbo after the car being sat for two weeks without any running.
I came to start the car up yesterday and it took around 5-10 minutes of cranking to get the car started.
I didn't have this problem before I parked it up before the turbo change but the car has always had a leak coming from around the fuel pump. Where would be the most common place for it to leak diesel? the clear lines that go to and from the fuel filter or the delivery valves on the pump?
Thanks.
(07-26-2016, 03:11 AM)LewisG95 Hi,
I have just finished my upgrade to a bigger turbo after the car being sat for two weeks without any running.
I came to start the car up yesterday and it took around 5-10 minutes of cranking to get the car started.
I didn't have this problem before I parked it up before the turbo change but the car has always had a leak coming from around the fuel pump. Where would be the most common place for it to leak diesel? the clear lines that go to and from the fuel filter or the delivery valves on the pump?
Thanks.
Actually, I can see the electrical connector with the ribbed top in the pic, so yes, thats the shutoff valve. Change the o rings there first but rest assured the others will have hardened so will need changing too..... How is the performance with your new turbo? Have you done anything to get extra fuelling?
Thanks for your reply BlueStreak.
It appears to be coming from that left hand hose on the picture. I cleaned it up and then got it started and was sat watching it pour out from there while the car was sat ticking over.
Is there any chance you could link me to the correct o-rings for the fuel lines please?
I'm half tempted to do the delivery valve o-rings and washers too but will just see if changing those fuel line o-rings cures it first.
The performance seems to be good with the new turbo. It's a HX27w from a 4bt and I have had Sean chip my ecu to run at the pumps maximum.
The turbo didn't look that much bigger compared to standard but it is definitely a bit laggier and when it comes on boost it pulls a lot harder.
Just a bit annoyed that I cant enjoy the performance with this bloody fuel leak messing me about now. Hopefully I'll be able to get it sorted.
(07-26-2016, 05:31 AM)LewisG95 Thanks for your reply BlueStreak.
It appears to be coming from that left hand hose on the picture. I cleaned it up and then got it started and was sat watching it pour out from there while the car was sat ticking over.
Is there any chance you could link me to the correct o-rings for the fuel lines please?
I'm half tempted to do the delivery valve o-rings and washers too but will just see if changing those fuel line o-rings cures it first.
The performance seems to be good with the new turbo. It's a HX27w from a 4bt and I have had Sean chip my ecu to run at the pumps maximum.
The turbo didn't look that much bigger compared to standard but it is definitely a bit laggier and when it comes on boost it pulls a lot harder.
Just a bit annoyed that I cant enjoy the performance with this bloody fuel leak messing me about now. Hopefully I'll be able to get it sorted.
(07-26-2016, 05:31 AM)LewisG95 Thanks for your reply BlueStreak.
It appears to be coming from that left hand hose on the picture. I cleaned it up and then got it started and was sat watching it pour out from there while the car was sat ticking over.
Is there any chance you could link me to the correct o-rings for the fuel lines please?
I'm half tempted to do the delivery valve o-rings and washers too but will just see if changing those fuel line o-rings cures it first.
The performance seems to be good with the new turbo. It's a HX27w from a 4bt and I have had Sean chip my ecu to run at the pumps maximum.
The turbo didn't look that much bigger compared to standard but it is definitely a bit laggier and when it comes on boost it pulls a lot harder.
Just a bit annoyed that I cant enjoy the performance with this bloody fuel leak messing me about now. Hopefully I'll be able to get it sorted.
(07-26-2016, 08:18 AM)LewisG95 infact.. is there any chance you know what size the o-rings are for the o-rings that go on the top of the shut off valve? we have a large selection of o-rings at work that might do it...
(07-26-2016, 08:18 AM)LewisG95 infact.. is there any chance you know what size the o-rings are for the o-rings that go on the top of the shut off valve? we have a large selection of o-rings at work that might do it...
(07-26-2016, 11:16 AM)LewisG95 Thanks mate. you have been a great help.
One more question.. do you know how to actually take off those connector things? do you have to push the clip in and then pull it up or just pull it up or?
Thanks
(07-26-2016, 11:16 AM)LewisG95 Thanks mate. you have been a great help.
One more question.. do you know how to actually take off those connector things? do you have to push the clip in and then pull it up or just pull it up or?
Thanks
Yep, push in to release. While doing it have a little prayer that brittle plastic wont brake on you. Btw i changed all rings and still get air bubles in lines when engine is runing, no starting problem but air must be good for performance. Just instal low pressure electric pump near tank and chill.
If any of the o-rings are leaking, replace them all, including the delivery valve seals. Looking at the picture above, that is probably where the leak is anyway. The delivery valves take a special tool to remove and re-tighten. Also there is a special tightening sequence. Requires new copper washers and the work must be surgically clean. Always use Viton o-rings. They last much, much, longer.
EDIT: procedure attached
You could keep mechanical lift pump in place.. Just dont go nuts with electric pump pressure, it wont do any good other that something will leak. 400CDI engines have 0.5Bar pump, and some old BMWs 0.15Bar, both able to supply over 130L/h which is sufficient many times over-you just need "endless" supply of fuel with low pressure.