The W201 om606 build log

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Om606w201

K26-2

45

04-15-2016, 12:32 AM #1

I recently found and purchased a somewhat wrecked/worn out 1998 e300 with 178k miles.
I trailered it home and rather quickly removed the engine and transmission.
I said to myself, well now I have the engine I've been chaseing. Shitty thing was! I sold my 1983 190d 2.5 n/a about 5 month ago. It needed work and I didn't like the n/a engine and also the scarcity of cheap om606's I decided to sell it. I had picked up a cosworth body kit for it in Los Angeles and sold that to! Dope! So the search set out for a car that could be the perfect engine stand for this new engine of mine! I looked for a few weeks and found a guy in San Diego that had a 190d 2.5t for sale, cheap. I called him up to tell him that he had the car for sale to cheap, thinking he didn't know what he had. Come to find out he did and he had two of these 2.5t. I told him what my intentions were and he said the car that was for sale was not a good car but his other one was. And boy was it!

He sent me a these few pics and it was really all I wanted in one car. Black paint! it was a 190 diesel which I needed due to California's f*€ked up smog regulations on gas cars, along with grey interior+++ and an already mounted and painted cosworth body kit!!! I wanted it. The only thing was the 700 miles between me and the car. So that Friday morning I jumped on a plane and flew down and drove my new car home. That was 3 weeks ago. Since then I have ordered and received my new 8mm diesel meken pump! For those of you that don't know Göran he is an upstanding dude and a joy to work with. Do yourselfs a favor and order yourself a pump from him.

I also have been in contact with Fred from f-tune. STD name (F.R.A.S). I have talked with Fred about transmissions that he offers and came to a conclusion to go with the getrag 420g transmission that he offers. Fred has been extremely helpful and professional. It seems to me that he runs a top notch company and it showed when I meet up with another member here on this forum, Johnathan STD name (mr. Robs). Johnathan was kind enough to let me measure his 53dz transmission that he bought from F-tune performance, he is building an amazing machine and I bet one of the fastest e300 in the USA. After the measurements I took, I determine that the 53dz was going to require me cutting the littler w201 tunnel to fit. The 420g in my opinion is comparable in strength to the 53dz but smaller like the 37dz. Johnathan also purchased a turbo header from f-tune which was a piece of art. I will be getting my hands on one of them too Big Grin

Which I will be mounting hx40w turbo to.

Hopefully this isn't to much of a post and I don't boar you guys.
As I move along on this project I will update. Any comments and/or questions will be appreciated

Josh

Om606w201

04-15-2016, 12:32 AM #1

Hello everyone. My name is Josh. I wanted to start a build log to start tracking my forward progress on a build I have wanted to do for many years. I have worked my way into a position where I can finally began. I have toyed around with diesels for quite a few years now but never had the opportunity to start this project because of the rarity of a cheap om606. Until recently! Big Grin

I recently found and purchased a somewhat wrecked/worn out 1998 e300 with 178k miles.
I trailered it home and rather quickly removed the engine and transmission.
I said to myself, well now I have the engine I've been chaseing. Shitty thing was! I sold my 1983 190d 2.5 n/a about 5 month ago. It needed work and I didn't like the n/a engine and also the scarcity of cheap om606's I decided to sell it. I had picked up a cosworth body kit for it in Los Angeles and sold that to! Dope! So the search set out for a car that could be the perfect engine stand for this new engine of mine! I looked for a few weeks and found a guy in San Diego that had a 190d 2.5t for sale, cheap. I called him up to tell him that he had the car for sale to cheap, thinking he didn't know what he had. Come to find out he did and he had two of these 2.5t. I told him what my intentions were and he said the car that was for sale was not a good car but his other one was. And boy was it!

He sent me a these few pics and it was really all I wanted in one car. Black paint! it was a 190 diesel which I needed due to California's f*€ked up smog regulations on gas cars, along with grey interior+++ and an already mounted and painted cosworth body kit!!! I wanted it. The only thing was the 700 miles between me and the car. So that Friday morning I jumped on a plane and flew down and drove my new car home. That was 3 weeks ago. Since then I have ordered and received my new 8mm diesel meken pump! For those of you that don't know Göran he is an upstanding dude and a joy to work with. Do yourselfs a favor and order yourself a pump from him.

I also have been in contact with Fred from f-tune. STD name (F.R.A.S). I have talked with Fred about transmissions that he offers and came to a conclusion to go with the getrag 420g transmission that he offers. Fred has been extremely helpful and professional. It seems to me that he runs a top notch company and it showed when I meet up with another member here on this forum, Johnathan STD name (mr. Robs). Johnathan was kind enough to let me measure his 53dz transmission that he bought from F-tune performance, he is building an amazing machine and I bet one of the fastest e300 in the USA. After the measurements I took, I determine that the 53dz was going to require me cutting the littler w201 tunnel to fit. The 420g in my opinion is comparable in strength to the 53dz but smaller like the 37dz. Johnathan also purchased a turbo header from f-tune which was a piece of art. I will be getting my hands on one of them too Big Grin Which I will be mounting hx40w turbo to.

Hopefully this isn't to much of a post and I don't boar you guys.
As I move along on this project I will update. Any comments and/or questions will be appreciated

Josh

EmJay

Holset

299

04-15-2016, 07:57 AM #2

I wanted to do this to my 16v so badly. Good luck with this build!

1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans Smile

1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now

EmJay

04-15-2016, 07:57 AM #2

I wanted to do this to my 16v so badly. Good luck with this build!

1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans Smile

1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now

capflya

Dreaming of a VNT

309

04-15-2016, 12:18 PM #3

Starting to get a nice bunch of diesel's here in Nor-Cal... Looking forward to seeing your progress! I've pretty much decided to build my w124 instead of buying a CDI to replace it.

'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have

'87 300D Turbo "Roxanne" - #22 head - 400E brakes - EGR Delete - 17" Staggered AMG 5 spoke rims from CLK500 - 5 Spd manual
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use Big Grin

1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.

capflya

04-15-2016, 12:18 PM #3

Starting to get a nice bunch of diesel's here in Nor-Cal... Looking forward to seeing your progress! I've pretty much decided to build my w124 instead of buying a CDI to replace it.

'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have

1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.

Mr_Robs

GT2256V

124

04-16-2016, 03:05 AM #4

Glad to see you made the build thread Josh Smile

Its going to be an epic build for sure, its awesome to have someone down the road with a superturbodiesel!

Mr_Robs

04-16-2016, 03:05 AM #4

Glad to see you made the build thread Josh Smile

Its going to be an epic build for sure, its awesome to have someone down the road with a superturbodiesel!

Om606w201

K26-2

45

04-16-2016, 10:59 AM #5

EmJay thanks , it's never to late for that build.

Capflya good deal, I like the mechanical diesels to, plus no smog like we would need for the CDI.
Where are you located? For some reason I remember reading Napa??

For sure Johnathan it's good for motivation. Plus it'll give me someone to try and keep in my sights. That thing is sure to be quick!!

For all you California's, shift sector is coming up again soon at New Coalinga airport. 23rd and 24th.
We need to all work toward putting the gassers to shame out there with these diesels. Perfect style of racing for our diesels. I'll be there Sunday! To watch☹️.

Om606w201

04-16-2016, 10:59 AM #5

EmJay

Holset

299

04-16-2016, 12:04 PM #6

It's too late for my 16v build, I sold it and got my w123

1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans Smile

1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now

EmJay

04-16-2016, 12:04 PM #6

It's too late for my 16v build, I sold it and got my w123

1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans Smile

1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now

Om606w201

K26-2

45

08-10-2016, 04:31 PM #7

I got ride of the E300 and kept the parts needed for the swap. for the 190 i have been cleaning it up sense i bought it in the beginning of the year. i buffed and polished for hours. got the paint in a lot better shape than it was. i think after awhile ill get it cleared again. painted the door hadles and fixed some body clad issues. for the most part I'm happy with the car. (for Now). i was able to finally source some wheels that i like. TE37 volks 18"7.5 I thought bronze work extremely well. ?? what do think? I have now added 20mm hub-centric spacers to the rear.

o i almost forgot.. i haven't posted in awhile and am looking through pics now. I drove the car with the H&R sport spring which are good. But... i wanted a little more for this build, so, i bought the road race kit from Ground control. very knowledgeable guys. i had the springs turned for the new weight of the engine. nice set of coil-overs make a real difference in the corners. Big Grin

. I am very pleased.

I am buying a turbo manifold from F-tune but decided to try my hand at making my own too. i was able to find a stainless exhaust manifold flange from a STD'er from here. i also order up weld 90's and piping. i got a hold of some round stock and made a ovaler that actually is working quite well. hard work to do this if your not prepped for this kind of work. call F-tune, Fred well hook you up.

I found a buyer for my old 2.5 turbo diesel and tranny. he is an up and coming STD'er and will, I'm sure soon be popping up with some questions her soon.
Since i found a buyer the engine had to come out. That was the turning point. so two weeks ago now i pulled the old and started cleaning the engine bay a bit.
decided while i'm waiting to gather my thoughts about the next portion of the build. I have now figured out the motor mounts for the om-606. the 602 mounts are the 601 mounts and put the engine way to far forward and would require the sway bar to be moved down and the oil pan to be cut. NOT HAPPENING. The W210 OM606 mounts are the best for this conversion for sure. the arms allow for the engine to be perfectly space from the oil pan and the cross member. Also the sway bar only has to be dropped down an 1" or so. very minimal . I also like the fact that the engine is in it furthest back possible position. The insulation behind the engine will need to be remove, I removed the sheet metal panel behind the engine for the air box area but believe i while be able to fit that back in. so stock firewall, if i don't like the fitment i will ad insulation and a carbon fiber panel. I am having a height problem so either i am going to modify the stock motor mount bushings or get 3" tall vibration isolators to allow for the engine to drop down an inch or so.

This is the rear panel i am talking about. i believe i will be putting this back in to keep as much of this project stoke looking as possible.

hood closed still allows plenty of room.

Here are a few pics from the Dieselmeken pump install. If any of you are thinking of doing a pump upgrade and are unsure because of the complexity. DO IT, it is not that hard to do at all.

I will be steadily working forward in the next few weeks and hopeful have the engine and tranny bolted together in the next few weeks depending on shipment.
I just received word from F-tune that my stuff will ship this next Monday. Its been a long time coming. I am currently working on all the engine connections. I.E. Oil cooler, power steering, intercooler, fuel, radiator.

I hope to be driving in the month of October.

feed back welcome.

Om606w201

08-10-2016, 04:31 PM #7

yes i'm still here... just been figuring out a few more things.

I have changed my mind on a couple of things, first is the tranny. i will be getting the gs6-37DZ from Fred not the 420G. The 37DZ is a tried and true tranny and somewhat rebuild-able, as for the 420G it is not so easy. i'm still waiting for the tranny and parts to arrive, should be a week or so out. The second thing i have changed my mind on for now is the turbo. I originally thought that i was going to start out with a HX40 but decided to go against that and start with a HE351ve. I've heard good and bad about this turbo but decided that its a project for learning and that's what all do. the turbo has required some studying on learn on what i always thought id run across eventually which is the Arduino. for those of you that don't know what the Arduino is, it is a stand along CPU that is open source and allows the hobbyist to write code to perform a task. in this case i ordered a shield that will monitor shaft speed and control the VGT portion of the turbo through can-bus.
I have installed the shield and have uploaded the code to the arduino. i will be starting the wiring harness for this in the next few days. there are quite a few Cummins guys that are coding this way. there are other ways to process the engine info and control the turbo, but i believe along with some others that the shaft speed will work best. To be determined!! If not ill play around with the HX40 or compound if no success.

I got ride of the E300 and kept the parts needed for the swap. for the 190 i have been cleaning it up sense i bought it in the beginning of the year. i buffed and polished for hours. got the paint in a lot better shape than it was. i think after awhile ill get it cleared again. painted the door hadles and fixed some body clad issues. for the most part I'm happy with the car. (for Now). i was able to finally source some wheels that i like. TE37 volks 18"7.5 I thought bronze work extremely well. ?? what do think? I have now added 20mm hub-centric spacers to the rear.

o i almost forgot.. i haven't posted in awhile and am looking through pics now. I drove the car with the H&R sport spring which are good. But... i wanted a little more for this build, so, i bought the road race kit from Ground control. very knowledgeable guys. i had the springs turned for the new weight of the engine. nice set of coil-overs make a real difference in the corners. Big Grin . I am very pleased.

I am buying a turbo manifold from F-tune but decided to try my hand at making my own too. i was able to find a stainless exhaust manifold flange from a STD'er from here. i also order up weld 90's and piping. i got a hold of some round stock and made a ovaler that actually is working quite well. hard work to do this if your not prepped for this kind of work. call F-tune, Fred well hook you up.

I found a buyer for my old 2.5 turbo diesel and tranny. he is an up and coming STD'er and will, I'm sure soon be popping up with some questions her soon.
Since i found a buyer the engine had to come out. That was the turning point. so two weeks ago now i pulled the old and started cleaning the engine bay a bit.
decided while i'm waiting to gather my thoughts about the next portion of the build. I have now figured out the motor mounts for the om-606. the 602 mounts are the 601 mounts and put the engine way to far forward and would require the sway bar to be moved down and the oil pan to be cut. NOT HAPPENING. The W210 OM606 mounts are the best for this conversion for sure. the arms allow for the engine to be perfectly space from the oil pan and the cross member. Also the sway bar only has to be dropped down an 1" or so. very minimal . I also like the fact that the engine is in it furthest back possible position. The insulation behind the engine will need to be remove, I removed the sheet metal panel behind the engine for the air box area but believe i while be able to fit that back in. so stock firewall, if i don't like the fitment i will ad insulation and a carbon fiber panel. I am having a height problem so either i am going to modify the stock motor mount bushings or get 3" tall vibration isolators to allow for the engine to drop down an inch or so.

This is the rear panel i am talking about. i believe i will be putting this back in to keep as much of this project stoke looking as possible.

hood closed still allows plenty of room.

Here are a few pics from the Dieselmeken pump install. If any of you are thinking of doing a pump upgrade and are unsure because of the complexity. DO IT, it is not that hard to do at all.

I will be steadily working forward in the next few weeks and hopeful have the engine and tranny bolted together in the next few weeks depending on shipment.
I just received word from F-tune that my stuff will ship this next Monday. Its been a long time coming. I am currently working on all the engine connections. I.E. Oil cooler, power steering, intercooler, fuel, radiator.

I hope to be driving in the month of October.

feed back welcome.

Om606w201

K26-2

45

08-10-2016, 10:04 PM #8

Has anyone done a manual shut down lever inside the cab. i have seen some cummins guys that have had a pull knob on the dash. any ideas or pics would be killer.

Om606w201

08-10-2016, 10:04 PM #8

Has anyone done a manual shut down lever inside the cab. i have seen some cummins guys that have had a pull knob on the dash. any ideas or pics would be killer.

Mr_Robs

GT2256V

124

08-12-2016, 01:15 AM #9

Awesome to see progress dude! I second an in cabin shut off solution, that would be a nice switch to have.

Still need to get myself a set of those ground controls, the pictures do not do them justice you guys!

Mr_Robs

08-12-2016, 01:15 AM #9

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

08-14-2016, 09:21 AM #10

(08-10-2016, 10:04 PM)Om606w201 Has anyone done a manual shut down lever inside the cab. i have seen some cummins guys that have had a pull knob on the dash. any ideas or pics would be killer.

Just use the vac shut off feature in the IP. make up a little wiring loom to have a push to make button in the cab, to give 12v to a vac solenoid which is fitted between a vac source and the IP vac fitting. (and a pin hole in the line to bleed off the vac so it will be able to restart..

This was discussed elsewhere and is what I rememver.

Oh wait your 190 is diesel so it will have the mechanical version of what I just said but built into the ignition key for vac kill? Unless you specifically want mechanical kill but why bother/

Sorry rambling over..

Beers.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

08-14-2016, 09:21 AM #10

(08-10-2016, 10:04 PM)Om606w201 Has anyone done a manual shut down lever inside the cab. i have seen some cummins guys that have had a pull knob on the dash. any ideas or pics would be killer.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Om606w201

K26-2

45

08-15-2016, 06:37 PM #11

i wanted a mechanical solution.

For so many years i wanted custom electronics but now all i want is mechanical.
that's whats great about the 603 pump for the 606. Its funny, all the years that one thing or another had to be electronic and now i have the option to do just that and i make the one thing that was full mechanical the hole time, electronic. arduino controlled turbo.

Om606w201

08-15-2016, 06:37 PM #11

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

10-10-2016, 03:43 PM #12

(08-15-2016, 06:37 PM)Om606w201 i wanted a mechanical solution.

For so many years i wanted custom electronics but now all i want is mechanical.
that's whats great about the 603 pump for the 606. Its funny, all the years that one thing or another had to be electronic and now i have the option to do just that and i make the one thing that was full mechanical the hole time, electronic. arduino controlled turbo.

Your ignition key switch has mechanical vacuum switch to kill the IP just like on the original engine, why not use that. Just connect the original vac hose onto the opaque white plastic vacuum thing on the IP and your key switch will kill?

This post was last modified: 10-10-2016, 03:44 PM by Hario'.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

10-10-2016, 03:43 PM #12

(08-15-2016, 06:37 PM)Om606w201 i wanted a mechanical solution.

For so many years i wanted custom electronics but now all i want is mechanical.
that's whats great about the 603 pump for the 606. Its funny, all the years that one thing or another had to be electronic and now i have the option to do just that and i make the one thing that was full mechanical the hole time, electronic. arduino controlled turbo.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Spoolin

Naturally-aspirated

10

11-15-2016, 06:38 AM #13

Nice looking project and it should haul ass. What did you do with the e300 trans? I picked up one with water in the transmission and am looking for a replacement. Spoolinawd@gmail.com

Spoolin

11-15-2016, 06:38 AM #13

Nice looking project and it should haul ass. What did you do with the e300 trans? I picked up one with water in the transmission and am looking for a replacement. Spoolinawd@gmail.com

Pipenøkkel

Naturally-aspirated

7

11-23-2016, 03:28 PM #14

Are you using the original w210 om606 sump?

_______________________________________________

177 HP provided by Mercedes Benz.
The other 500 supplied by Dieselmeken AB and Borg Warner

Pipenøkkel

11-23-2016, 03:28 PM #14

Are you using the original w210 om606 sump?

_______________________________________________

177 HP provided by Mercedes Benz.
The other 500 supplied by Dieselmeken AB and Borg Warner

Om606w201

K26-2

45

11-23-2016, 06:56 PM #15

(11-23-2016, 03:28 PM)Pipenøkkel Are you using the original w210 om606 sump?

I am using it. I was going to cut on it at first, but decided against it and made room in other ways.
I do apologize for being away so long. I had some not so good circumstances with part delivery and parts ordered.
wanted to cool down before posting. I have a fair amount of pics and some writings to share. i will try and get them posted this weekend.

Om606w201

11-23-2016, 06:56 PM #15

(11-23-2016, 03:28 PM)Pipenøkkel Are you using the original w210 om606 sump?

Pipenøkkel

Naturally-aspirated

7

11-24-2016, 06:16 PM #16

(11-23-2016, 06:56 PM)Om606w201
(11-23-2016, 03:28 PM)Pipenøkkel Are you using the original w210 om606 sump?

I am using it. I was going to cut on it at first, but decided against it and made room in other ways.
I do apologize for being away so long. I had some not so good circumstances with part delivery and parts ordered.
wanted to cool down before posting. I have a fair amount of pics and some writings to share. i will try and get them posted this weekend.

Thanks!

Please post pictures of the clearance to the arb and crossmemer if possible Smile

Doing the same conversion myself, but havent gotten so far as putting the engine in the car yet.

You ended up using the original om606 w210 engine mount arms? What rubber mounts?

_______________________________________________

177 HP provided by Mercedes Benz.
The other 500 supplied by Dieselmeken AB and Borg Warner

Pipenøkkel

11-24-2016, 06:16 PM #16

(11-23-2016, 06:56 PM)Om606w201
(11-23-2016, 03:28 PM)Pipenøkkel Are you using the original w210 om606 sump?

I am using it. I was going to cut on it at first, but decided against it and made room in other ways.
I do apologize for being away so long. I had some not so good circumstances with part delivery and parts ordered.
wanted to cool down before posting. I have a fair amount of pics and some writings to share. i will try and get them posted this weekend.

Thanks!

Please post pictures of the clearance to the arb and crossmemer if possible Smile

Doing the same conversion myself, but havent gotten so far as putting the engine in the car yet.

You ended up using the original om606 w210 engine mount arms? What rubber mounts?

_______________________________________________

177 HP provided by Mercedes Benz.
The other 500 supplied by Dieselmeken AB and Borg Warner

Om606w201

K26-2

45

11-25-2016, 01:15 PM #17

after all this time waiting for parts finally they show! now for the fun part! RIGHT?? no!

Broken transmission! Angry

the real concerning thing is that the crack on the tab closest in the bottom picture is seeping oil
which means its cracked all the way through, Im sure this is great for structural strength. i need the most strength i can get with the horsepower goals im after. On top of it all my kids will be in this car and i have a fault casting on the transmission 6" from thier legs.

So broken parts, cracked bell, flywheel teeth are hammered, (after he stated it was the best flywheel ever made). due to pour palleting and nothing strapped in the box.
This is the point i felt defeated for sure. After contacting fred Again. I got the quick impression he wasn't going to help much.
he said it wasn't a big deal and someone could weld the things back together for me here in the USA.

[Image: Freds%20customer%20service_zpsug4i2qe5.png]

F-tunes imput on another companies product.
by the way the bell on my tranny is not straight either. (more on that later with pictures.)

REALLY!! This is not what i paid for though, and this now was costing me more money. Money that i paid him for good parts. I don't know if these parts where broken in shipment due to them not being strapped or before they even went into the box?? I recommended turning it into the shipping companies insurance due to shipping damages. He said he would look into it. After weeks of waiting he said they would not replace and would give him a little bit of money which i said to use for sending me some parts due to him not coming clean and offering to pay for returning the parts for unbroken parts. After speaking to a DHL shipping customer representative about this, she informed me claims are handle quickly and do not take weeks to settle. I don't thing insurance was purchased for this at all and they did not pay him any money. After hearing this bad news and having broken part I decided i will need to come up with a different way of shifting the transmission sense he isn't going to take responsibility for the damaged parts that were mostly likely due to no strapping . At this point i needed to take the burden myself. In consolation he sent me a branded block off plate for the fuel heater which he offered free to me months earlier, and a aftermarket shifter that is tacky and most likely wont work at all. sorry for the rambling and downer comments, but i'm still upset after all these months. Overall i got parts from him.. customer service is not very good. unnecessary waiting times and not professional at all. Overall a bad experience. I only write these words for you fellow builders that are after a good product.

I have heard of good products coming from F-tune and also found someone here on the forum that received everything i did in good shape just after i received mine. why he couldn't have returned mine for the good ones and built another for that person, I don't know. I waited this many months, he could have postponed the next transmissions shipment to fulfill a previous order. that's how most companies would have dealt with this if they had customer service.

This is my "5-Cents" as one before me stated.

Om606w201

11-25-2016, 01:15 PM #17

whats up SuperTDer's

To start with I have received my parts from F-tune performance. The reason i haven't posted is i did not want to fly off the handle and say things without cooling down first. I started in conversation with Fred in February of this year about what i wanted to do and the options I had. I wanted a 420g as posted in earlier posts. I put my order in with Fred the first of may. he set out to find a gearbox for me but after a month or so could not find one for some reason. I did not want to hold up the project any longer and had a buyer for my turbo OM602. So I went with my second choice which was the 37DZ, due to the 53DZ that i measured from MrRobs being way to large. He started on production of the parts I ordered the beginning of June. He told me at purchase it would be a 6 to 8 week lead time. From first contact to delivery was nearly 6 months after lots of delays and lots and lots of email and promised dates it showed up 4 and half months after ordered. During this time I had a few email out to him that were just unanswered, which is unnerving to say the least especially when you have thousands of dollars unsecured over seas. After a few nasty emails he would respond though. I have nearly 60 email back and forth if anyone want to see them. If anyone orders from F-tune make sure to schedule months and months ahead of your schedule due to them not being parts he has. now to move on to the parts showing up.

after all this time waiting for parts finally they show! now for the fun part! RIGHT?? no!

Broken transmission! Angry the real concerning thing is that the crack on the tab closest in the bottom picture is seeping oil
which means its cracked all the way through, Im sure this is great for structural strength. i need the most strength i can get with the horsepower goals im after. On top of it all my kids will be in this car and i have a fault casting on the transmission 6" from thier legs.

So broken parts, cracked bell, flywheel teeth are hammered, (after he stated it was the best flywheel ever made). due to pour palleting and nothing strapped in the box.
This is the point i felt defeated for sure. After contacting fred Again. I got the quick impression he wasn't going to help much.
he said it wasn't a big deal and someone could weld the things back together for me here in the USA.

F-tunes imput on another companies product.
by the way the bell on my tranny is not straight either. (more on that later with pictures.)

REALLY!! This is not what i paid for though, and this now was costing me more money. Money that i paid him for good parts. I don't know if these parts where broken in shipment due to them not being strapped or before they even went into the box?? I recommended turning it into the shipping companies insurance due to shipping damages. He said he would look into it. After weeks of waiting he said they would not replace and would give him a little bit of money which i said to use for sending me some parts due to him not coming clean and offering to pay for returning the parts for unbroken parts. After speaking to a DHL shipping customer representative about this, she informed me claims are handle quickly and do not take weeks to settle. I don't thing insurance was purchased for this at all and they did not pay him any money. After hearing this bad news and having broken part I decided i will need to come up with a different way of shifting the transmission sense he isn't going to take responsibility for the damaged parts that were mostly likely due to no strapping . At this point i needed to take the burden myself. In consolation he sent me a branded block off plate for the fuel heater which he offered free to me months earlier, and a aftermarket shifter that is tacky and most likely wont work at all. sorry for the rambling and downer comments, but i'm still upset after all these months. Overall i got parts from him.. customer service is not very good. unnecessary waiting times and not professional at all. Overall a bad experience. I only write these words for you fellow builders that are after a good product.

I have heard of good products coming from F-tune and also found someone here on the forum that received everything i did in good shape just after i received mine. why he couldn't have returned mine for the good ones and built another for that person, I don't know. I waited this many months, he could have postponed the next transmissions shipment to fulfill a previous order. that's how most companies would have dealt with this if they had customer service.

This is my "5-Cents" as one before me stated.

Om606w201

K26-2

45

11-25-2016, 04:39 PM #18

Below, you can see it leaned up against the front of the car. i was hoping the whole time that i would be able to fit it threw the openings on either side of the w201 chassis radiator.

I will have to trim the down the inlet and outlet pipe by and inch or
so to allow for the silicion 90's to turn perfectly threw.

I then got some rivet nuts and cut down the top angle flange on top of the intercooler to allow it to be fasten to the core support.

Below, you can see how i secured the intercooler to the core support with some simple all thread and rivet nuts.
i spun on some polished egg corn nuts for a bit more of a finished look.

Above:
I welded a plate to the bottom of the core crass member to support the weight of the intercooler.
I will clean this plate up a bit and round the edges. this will have a single bolt through the bottom into the intercooler lower support, with a thin piece of rubber for vibration.

Below,
you can see that i needed to trim away the inner portion of the bumper right in front if the intercooler, this is ok though do to the grill support that closes down over the top of bumper and hides this by about an 1".
even with the hood open i dont think it looks bad, almost factory. Which during this build i will go out of my way to make as many thing as i can factoryISH looking.....or at least ill try.

above you will see the core support is not touched. thats until i tried closing the hood with the grill in.
being that the core is 4 and 3/8" thick it came out on the very top and hit the grill.
below you can see that i have moved the factory mounts back to allow for the radiator to move back just a bit for the intercooler to fit behind the core support. i will clean this up a bit after the car is driving. most likely put a plate across from mount to mount.

In the picture below you can see that there is still more than enough room for fans, almost 3". i have found a few 10" slim line fans that i will most likely use

Om606w201

11-25-2016, 04:39 PM #18

Intercooler install.

I looked around for awhile to see if there was an aftermarket intercooler that was a direct bolt in,
but found nothing.I found this intercooler on craigslist that was meant for a twin turbo kit on a brand new camaro.
It was the right size and more vertical than harasontal witch i liked.
The problem was that my car was at home and I was away and could not hold it up for comparison.
So i bought it hoping i could make it work...

The intercooler dimensions are as follows for those of you that are trying to get a hold of some numbers.
The core itself sideways is 12" and total overall including plenuem is 18"
The core itself vertical is 18" the inlet and outlet boost pipe is 3".
the core thickness is 4"

Below, you can see it leaned up against the front of the car. i was hoping the whole time that i would be able to fit it threw the openings on either side of the w201 chassis radiator.

I will have to trim the down the inlet and outlet pipe by and inch or
so to allow for the silicion 90's to turn perfectly threw.

I then got some rivet nuts and cut down the top angle flange on top of the intercooler to allow it to be fasten to the core support.

Below, you can see how i secured the intercooler to the core support with some simple all thread and rivet nuts.
i spun on some polished egg corn nuts for a bit more of a finished look.

Above:
I welded a plate to the bottom of the core crass member to support the weight of the intercooler.
I will clean this plate up a bit and round the edges. this will have a single bolt through the bottom into the intercooler lower support, with a thin piece of rubber for vibration.

Below,
you can see that i needed to trim away the inner portion of the bumper right in front if the intercooler, this is ok though do to the grill support that closes down over the top of bumper and hides this by about an 1".
even with the hood open i dont think it looks bad, almost factory. Which during this build i will go out of my way to make as many thing as i can factoryISH looking.....or at least ill try.

above you will see the core support is not touched. thats until i tried closing the hood with the grill in.
being that the core is 4 and 3/8" thick it came out on the very top and hit the grill.
below you can see that i have moved the factory mounts back to allow for the radiator to move back just a bit for the intercooler to fit behind the core support. i will clean this up a bit after the car is driving. most likely put a plate across from mount to mount.

In the picture below you can see that there is still more than enough room for fans, almost 3". i have found a few 10" slim line fans that i will most likely use

Om606w201

K26-2

45

11-25-2016, 05:43 PM #19

last post had enough pics. here is how thought i should cut it and move the core support factory connection back.
these other pics are it all together and fitted. Not bad for trial run. I think i will run a wire mesh grill and then carry that mesh down to the intercooler space below.

Om606w201

11-25-2016, 05:43 PM #19

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

11-26-2016, 05:56 AM #20

That is one mean ass intercooler, short tubes and lots of them, ideal. Have you considered using the stock 606 visco fan? its about 1.5" thickness so you could go further back on the rad if you needed to, and it would work with the stock 190 fan cowl.

Beers

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

11-26-2016, 05:56 AM #20

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

hents99

GT2256V

157

11-26-2016, 06:42 AM #21

Hope you sort things out with the parts. I know Fred is doing great work. It`s not right to say it`s OK but it happens. If you`re fabricating custom parts....(and most of them going overseas)

I`d never weld gearbox bellhousings instead of adapters. But matching BMW box with MB engine with adapter is PITA. Gearbox shaft is much shorter and MB crankshaft is also too much inside from block surface. It`s not very good idea to move flywheel too much to tranny side but I`m going to design flywheel for OM606+BMW 6-spd gearbox with adapter plate.

I have done adapters for flywheels for using short shaft boxes (717.450) with single mass flywheels. But with BMW box this adapter height will be 50mm+ for sure.

This post was last modified: 11-26-2016, 06:44 AM by hents99.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
www.elbe.ee - MB performance parts.

hents99

11-26-2016, 06:42 AM #21

------------------------------------------------------------------------
www.elbe.ee - MB performance parts.

Om606w201

K26-2

45

11-26-2016, 01:29 PM #22

I spaced out the wheels 20mm. I think the It gives it a better look for sure.
I also got a hold of some rear E400 rotors,
I am looking to get my hands on some calipers if anyone out there has some.

Here is a Picture and part number for a belt on a non air conditioning OM606.
I received this picture from another member here. Thanks!

I used the power steering supply hose from the 190.
I removed the end out of the power steering hose that came with the om606.
After I removed it and cut the hose from the 190 pump down which was to long,
I installed this end into the hose. I found this to be the easiest way and most factory look.
The return line is a regular barb fitting

below, E300/Om606 pump fitting that was installed into the end of my 190 house.

The question i have is why do people change out to the older power steering pump?
Just because it has an aluminum bowl?
i have read some things on grinding the spring down in picture,
To achieve lower pump pressures for the 190 steering box??
Is this true?

below is the pedal change out, for those that are doing this and don't know
I picked this pedal assembling up while on vacation to southern California off craigslist. Score!!
both the w201 and w124 pedal assemblies are the same and will fit.
i first unbolted the auto pedal assembly and removed from car.
There is a rubber firewall grommet that's just to the right of the pedal bracket.
I sliced a hole into it to allow for the master feed hose to go throw and up to the brake reservoir.
There is factory crimped plastic nipple in the lower driver side of the brake/clutch reservoir.
It needs to be cut and the end of the hose pushed on.
The Pedal assemble has four bolts that go throw the fire wall and hold the brake booster on. This is a good thing,
because you need to pull the booster off the firewall a bit to get your hand down behind it to fish up the hose.

I decided to install a good fresh 5/16 rubber hose while there. enough writing!.. sorry, now for a few pics.

auto brake pedal

below, Is the booster rod sticking through and the hose and grommet location i spoke of above.

when i bought the clutch/brake pedal assembly i had a slight kinked hard line to the slave.
It is the wrong fitting size due to BMW tranny anyhow.
I think i will get a braided steel line made up this week.
My transmission came with no slave cylinder which i believe is common??
Over here in the USA there was no BMW manual six speed diesel offered.
The 37BZ tranny (gas version) is basically the same as the DZ version.
I believe its gear ratio change only. Any ways i ordered a slave for a 330CI 2006 which has the BZ version six speed.

All installed. I garage raced the car for about ten minutes after that!!! so nice to see that in the car!!
Every once in a while its good to get a hard on for the car again!! this did it for sure.

I don't know if other people have issues with the words running off the end of the forum page?? i do.
i have been returning to the next line to make sure all is able to be seen. lets see if this works...

ANY input is greatly appreciated and welcome! to much writing?? not enough pics?? i have hundreds of pictures,
Just let me know if there is anything you would like to see or other angles.. measurements needed??
I'm here to help in any way i can! That's what this place is for. I have been in stuck places before on other crazy builds,
and only wished i could find that ONE picture or reference to something to help out.

Om606w201

11-26-2016, 01:29 PM #22

I spaced out the wheels 20mm. I think the It gives it a better look for sure.
I also got a hold of some rear E400 rotors,
I am looking to get my hands on some calipers if anyone out there has some.

Here is a Picture and part number for a belt on a non air conditioning OM606.
I received this picture from another member here. Thanks!

I used the power steering supply hose from the 190.
I removed the end out of the power steering hose that came with the om606.
After I removed it and cut the hose from the 190 pump down which was to long,
I installed this end into the hose. I found this to be the easiest way and most factory look.
The return line is a regular barb fitting

below, E300/Om606 pump fitting that was installed into the end of my 190 house.

The question i have is why do people change out to the older power steering pump?
Just because it has an aluminum bowl?
i have read some things on grinding the spring down in picture,
To achieve lower pump pressures for the 190 steering box??
Is this true?

below is the pedal change out, for those that are doing this and don't know
I picked this pedal assembling up while on vacation to southern California off craigslist. Score!!
both the w201 and w124 pedal assemblies are the same and will fit.
i first unbolted the auto pedal assembly and removed from car.
There is a rubber firewall grommet that's just to the right of the pedal bracket.
I sliced a hole into it to allow for the master feed hose to go throw and up to the brake reservoir.
There is factory crimped plastic nipple in the lower driver side of the brake/clutch reservoir.
It needs to be cut and the end of the hose pushed on.
The Pedal assemble has four bolts that go throw the fire wall and hold the brake booster on. This is a good thing,
because you need to pull the booster off the firewall a bit to get your hand down behind it to fish up the hose.

I decided to install a good fresh 5/16 rubber hose while there. enough writing!.. sorry, now for a few pics.

auto brake pedal

below, Is the booster rod sticking through and the hose and grommet location i spoke of above.

when i bought the clutch/brake pedal assembly i had a slight kinked hard line to the slave.
It is the wrong fitting size due to BMW tranny anyhow.
I think i will get a braided steel line made up this week.
My transmission came with no slave cylinder which i believe is common??
Over here in the USA there was no BMW manual six speed diesel offered.
The 37BZ tranny (gas version) is basically the same as the DZ version.
I believe its gear ratio change only. Any ways i ordered a slave for a 330CI 2006 which has the BZ version six speed.

All installed. I garage raced the car for about ten minutes after that!!! so nice to see that in the car!!
Every once in a while its good to get a hard on for the car again!! this did it for sure.

I don't know if other people have issues with the words running off the end of the forum page?? i do.
i have been returning to the next line to make sure all is able to be seen. lets see if this works...

ANY input is greatly appreciated and welcome! to much writing?? not enough pics?? i have hundreds of pictures,
Just let me know if there is anything you would like to see or other angles.. measurements needed??
I'm here to help in any way i can! That's what this place is for. I have been in stuck places before on other crazy builds,
and only wished i could find that ONE picture or reference to something to help out.

Om606w201

K26-2

45

11-26-2016, 02:19 PM #23

(11-26-2016, 05:56 AM)Hario That is one mean ass intercooler, short tubes and lots of them, ideal. Have you considered using the stock 606 visco fan? its about 1.5" thickness so you could go further back on the rad if you needed to, and it would work with the stock 190 fan cowl.

Beers

Hario,
Thank you Sir,
Hopefully it will get this job done!! I did not think about the visco fan, There was not one on the e300?? i don't believe. There was only one electric fan and another that was driving from this one. the fan assemble was to large for this radiator also. i will go with a set off 10" slim line pullers for my cooling needs. For the distance i believe i have enough now. i am going to have to get crafty when i go to put A/c back in the car. I think i will but a roadster still condenser on the passenger side opposite of where the oil cooler is on the other side. well see though. i live in California and it isnt that hot for to long. I still have a motorcycle that needs to be ridden!!! :-)

(11-26-2016, 06:42 AM)hents99 Hope you sort things out with the parts. I know Fred is doing great work. It`s not right to say it`s OK but it happens. If you`re fabricating custom parts....(and most of them going overseas)

I`d never weld gearbox bellhousings instead of adapters. But matching BMW box with MB engine with adapter is PITA. Gearbox shaft is much shorter and MB crankshaft is also too much inside from block surface. It`s not very good idea to move flywheel too much to tranny side but I`m going to design flywheel for OM606+BMW 6-spd gearbox with adapter plate.

I have done adapters for flywheels for using short shaft boxes (717.450) with single mass flywheels. But with BMW box this adapter height will be 50mm+ for sure.

Hents99,

I do understand that these parts are not easy to make and realized This in the nearly $4000 US dollars i paid for them.
Just better luck to the next customer an to F-tune in the future. This is a learning experience for everyone. Just i was the example. I look forward to seeing the parts you bring to the SuperTD community. I will keep you in mind on my next build!!
sure to be more crazy than this for sure.

And to all.

Is there anyone that has a good throttle connection idea?? i would like to use the stock throttle cable. I do know of DPUK's
but dont want to put a cable around the front. also heard they bind up a bit.

Om606w201

11-26-2016, 02:19 PM #23

(11-26-2016, 05:56 AM)Hario That is one mean ass intercooler, short tubes and lots of them, ideal. Have you considered using the stock 606 visco fan? its about 1.5" thickness so you could go further back on the rad if you needed to, and it would work with the stock 190 fan cowl.

Beers

(11-26-2016, 06:42 AM)hents99 Hope you sort things out with the parts. I know Fred is doing great work. It`s not right to say it`s OK but it happens. If you`re fabricating custom parts....(and most of them going overseas)

I`d never weld gearbox bellhousings instead of adapters. But matching BMW box with MB engine with adapter is PITA. Gearbox shaft is much shorter and MB crankshaft is also too much inside from block surface. It`s not very good idea to move flywheel too much to tranny side but I`m going to design flywheel for OM606+BMW 6-spd gearbox with adapter plate.

I have done adapters for flywheels for using short shaft boxes (717.450) with single mass flywheels. But with BMW box this adapter height will be 50mm+ for sure.

Max

Turbinaaa

87

11-26-2016, 04:47 PM #24

I made this out of an old m102 linkage:

Works with stock throttle Cable (Be Careful, there are different throttle cable available for w201, just use the longest you can find.)

______________________________________________________________
93´ W124 300TDT -> OM606.962 / RS 203 Dieselmeken 7,5mm 210cc / KKK K14 / Stock Transmission / 2,65 ASD
89´ 190D 2.5 Turbo -> OM605.960 / Dieselmeken 7,5mm 180cc / Holset HX30 Super / 716. 654 6-Speed / 2,87 Rear Axle

Max

11-26-2016, 04:47 PM #24

I made this out of an old m102 linkage:

Works with stock throttle Cable (Be Careful, there are different throttle cable available for w201, just use the longest you can find.)

Om606w201

K26-2

45

11-26-2016, 05:36 PM #25

(11-26-2016, 04:47 PM)Max I made this out of an old m102 linkage:

Works with stock throttle Cable (Be Careful, there are different throttle cable available for w201, just use the longest you can find.)

O Spot on!! Thank you very much!! I have the one in the pic. It will most definitely reach to this point.
Thanks a lot Max.

Om606w201

11-26-2016, 05:36 PM #25

(11-26-2016, 04:47 PM)Max I made this out of an old m102 linkage:

Works with stock throttle Cable (Be Careful, there are different throttle cable available for w201, just use the longest you can find.)

O Spot on!! Thank you very much!! I have the one in the pic. It will most definitely reach to this point.
Thanks a lot Max.

pryantcc

TA 0301

63

11-28-2016, 12:58 PM #26

Hi,
I shortened the spring in the stock OM606 power steering pump to bring the pressure down. I needed about half the original output. Works well.

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...7#pid79747
Paul.

This post was last modified: 11-28-2016, 01:04 PM by pryantcc.

1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.

pryantcc

11-28-2016, 12:58 PM #26

1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.

Om606w201

K26-2

45

12-06-2016, 10:34 PM #27

Below is the 3" after i got done cutting it. the radius are to large for the length of the intake manifold.

I first measured the length of the manifold and marked it onto a piece of aluminium. i then placed the 2.75 inch fittings on to the top of it and traced it out. OK.. now im liking the shape.

Below:

I then cut the back side of the fittings out and taped them together to gather my thoughts on the shape. i liked it, and was going to stick with this size manifold.

I then started to cut out the base plate and top and bottom of the plenum. I used 3/16 which was a bit larger thickness than the fittings them self but i thought would offer a little more strength.

cutting aluminium with a plasma cutter is a bitch.. i cut out close to the traced lines and then used my porting tool for cleaning up the edges.

also ported the whole inside of the intake manifold.

I TIG'ed the base plate to the ports on the inside. This offered a nice rounded edge to allow for smooth flow.

Let her breath!!!! let her breath!!!!

Below~

Ooooooo so shiny!!, all TIG welded

While I was at it I got the tranny crack welded in and outside.
There was also a portion of the inside of the bell that wasn't welded at all. The flat plate in the pic below.
I got that welded up to to allow for the most strength possible.

Now for a few reference photos for you guys out there.
Belowe are some measurements of the GS6-37DZ input shaft. And OM606 crank well.

The measurement above are in American, sport for those of you not familiar. It comes out to 15mm
For the I put shaft and and 35mm for the crank well. The crank well depth is 22mm deep.

I called a local company and found a PERFECT!! Fit. Part number below. For all you alls reference.
They measure exactly 11mm thick so two of them fit perfectly into the well.

Also I was able to fit a slave cylinder. It's off the BZ version for those of you in the states.
I ordered it under a 2006 BMW 330CI. model number below for your references.

I hope this helps you guys out there that are think of a OM swap. Im trying to catch up with my
Posting and pictures. I have hundreds more that I am not putting on, If you need reference of parts
From a different angle.
I would love to help, I know it can be hard at times to find a straight answer.
Let me know if I should do something different for you pros out there. I'm am still
Learning daily.

At this point I have completed the tranny bracket and cross member mod.
Massaged the tunnel slightly and started to mock up the shifter. The tranny and engine are going to
Be bolted back together and put in for the last time this weekend. I will post the other stuff soon
And hopefully of it running in the car before the end of the year.

One question I have is. What have people used for slave cylinder to clutch master as far as
Line? I thought about using a braided line. Does anyone know the size and thread pattern for each?

Thanks a million in advanced.

Om606w201

12-06-2016, 10:34 PM #27

PWWhat's up SuperTDers

intake manifold.

I started out by ordering some 3" aluminum fittings for the intake manifold. that was a mistake.
I started by cutting out a 3" piece of card board to replicate the base plate. i cut the U bend in half and found that once the pieces were cut to size and fit front to back, that the shape was disgusting. It was to round front to rear for my liking. I ordered 2.75" for the boost piping and found this to be a much better size. Below you can see the 3" u bend that was first used.

Below is the 3" after i got done cutting it. the radius are to large for the length of the intake manifold.

I first measured the length of the manifold and marked it onto a piece of aluminium. i then placed the 2.75 inch fittings on to the top of it and traced it out. OK.. now im liking the shape.

Below:

I then cut the back side of the fittings out and taped them together to gather my thoughts on the shape. i liked it, and was going to stick with this size manifold.

I then started to cut out the base plate and top and bottom of the plenum. I used 3/16 which was a bit larger thickness than the fittings them self but i thought would offer a little more strength.

cutting aluminium with a plasma cutter is a bitch.. i cut out close to the traced lines and then used my porting tool for cleaning up the edges.

also ported the whole inside of the intake manifold.

I TIG'ed the base plate to the ports on the inside. This offered a nice rounded edge to allow for smooth flow.

Let her breath!!!! let her breath!!!!

Below~

Ooooooo so shiny!!, all TIG welded

While I was at it I got the tranny crack welded in and outside.
There was also a portion of the inside of the bell that wasn't welded at all. The flat plate in the pic below.
I got that welded up to to allow for the most strength possible.

Now for a few reference photos for you guys out there.
Belowe are some measurements of the GS6-37DZ input shaft. And OM606 crank well.

The measurement above are in American, sport for those of you not familiar. It comes out to 15mm
For the I put shaft and and 35mm for the crank well. The crank well depth is 22mm deep.

I called a local company and found a PERFECT!! Fit. Part number below. For all you alls reference.
They measure exactly 11mm thick so two of them fit perfectly into the well.

Also I was able to fit a slave cylinder. It's off the BZ version for those of you in the states.
I ordered it under a 2006 BMW 330CI. model number below for your references.

I hope this helps you guys out there that are think of a OM swap. Im trying to catch up with my
Posting and pictures. I have hundreds more that I am not putting on, If you need reference of parts
From a different angle.
I would love to help, I know it can be hard at times to find a straight answer.
Let me know if I should do something different for you pros out there. I'm am still
Learning daily.

At this point I have completed the tranny bracket and cross member mod.
Massaged the tunnel slightly and started to mock up the shifter. The tranny and engine are going to
Be bolted back together and put in for the last time this weekend. I will post the other stuff soon
And hopefully of it running in the car before the end of the year.

One question I have is. What have people used for slave cylinder to clutch master as far as
Line? I thought about using a braided line. Does anyone know the size and thread pattern for each?

Thanks a million in advanced.

124diesel

Naturally-aspirated

13

12-07-2016, 03:16 AM #28

Once monies are exchanged people become less helpful and professional. I wouldn't wire transfer .01 to the next city over and I don't care how great a company appears there's always that chance just like with anything. Sorry to hear about your damaged parts, hope your build continues to progress. Keep up the great work!

124diesel

12-07-2016, 03:16 AM #28

Pipenøkkel

Naturally-aspirated

7

12-08-2016, 10:58 AM #29

Did the engine sit to high when you used the rubber mounts from the w210? or did you try the rubber mounts from the original engine?

Keep us updated. You can never post to many pictures Big Grin

This post was last modified: 12-08-2016, 10:59 AM by Pipenøkkel.

_______________________________________________

177 HP provided by Mercedes Benz.
The other 500 supplied by Dieselmeken AB and Borg Warner

Pipenøkkel

12-08-2016, 10:58 AM #29

Did the engine sit to high when you used the rubber mounts from the w210? or did you try the rubber mounts from the original engine?

Keep us updated. You can never post to many pictures Big Grin

_______________________________________________

177 HP provided by Mercedes Benz.
The other 500 supplied by Dieselmeken AB and Borg Warner

Om606w201

K26-2

45

01-01-2017, 01:56 AM #30

now that i have the ability to set some what of a customizable height with the puck and Ptfe,
I started to lower the engine and found that with the needed room on top that the oil pan was on the cross member.
I thought about this for a while and determent that i would rather cut the cross member then cut the oil pan.
I made some marks and plas cut out the notch needed. I plated it in with 3/16 Plate.

After doing this is set the engine in again to test fit. i liked the room in between the pan and cross member now,
It was also allowing the transmission to not angle down as much in the rear.
Offering a more straight on with the rear driveshaft carrier bearing.

At this point I started to mess with the anti roll bar mounting strap which was not good. Bit premature.
I added 1-1/8 inch to the strap to allow for the front of the bar to ride clear of the pan.

After this i started to look at where the transmission was in the tunnel
I found it to be to tight for my liking.
also there was absolutely no room,
between where the drive shaft flex disk/Isolater and the shift selector rod needed to be.

I determined at this point that i wanted to lower the transmission.
There needed to be more room between the tunnel and the tranny.
I am not going to cut the tunnel, I made this decision early on when i decided not to go with the 53DZ.
I dont want to fight the interior back into the car after enlarging the tunnel.

The only way to lower the transmission and keep what, some what straight shot to the rear drive line,
I needed to lower the engine more.

I lowered the the engine another (1/2) half inch by removing one PTFE from both sides.
This still allowed for finger distance between the cross member and the pan.
the only problem was that, as the oil pan turns down towards the sump it gets close to the corner of the cross member.
this is because the shallow curve the pan has.

Well shitty. I just got done with the cross member.
These are the things with automotive that just are so much fun.

The corner of the crossmember had to rock back to allow for the room i wanted.

i measured back so that i maintained at least the same distance around the arch as on top of the cross member.
I used some card board to help template the pieces needed. i wanted to make this strong so i spent a little extra time
boxing it in. I cut a 1/4" piece for the bottom and took it all the way out to where the lower control arms meet.

this is finished for now.
I cleared over it for protection but will address cosmetics in the engine bay and engine
once running and all parts are behaving together.

now that the engine is lowered that extra 1/2"
Also bout 8" of sound cloth was removed from the underside of the tunnel.
I was able to get the much needed room above the tranny.
I took a hammer to the inside of the tunnel to round out the lower skin
of the dual walled tunnel.
I did mark up the under coating a little so i put some truck bed line/ under coating and gave a fresh coat.

Now that i am happy with the engine height
and the tranny clearance i can focus on the tranny mount.
this was pretty straight forward,
I traced out the tranny bracket from the BMW on to a 1/4" piece of steel and cut it out.
bolted it to the tranny and and cut out a support piece
I will place a 1/4" piece of rubber between the body and tranny bracket.

Just an FYI the passenger mounting point sets like 1" higher. Through me off for a minute.
Thought the transmission was sitting sideways.

I dont have a bolted up Picture. I will have to take one and upload.

Now that the engine/tranny are set i could determine the position of the intake manifold pipe.
I held up a 90 and eye-balled the possition.
I have been using the plasma cutter on the aluminium
I find if you keep a clean tip and move quickly it makes a somewhat clean cut.
nowhere near steel but you can get things apart.

after some sandin on the belt sander i came up with the basic shape needed.

After i got the shape cut out i traced it onto the manifold and cut that out to.

this piece has been welded up to my the manifold and i dont have pictures of this either.
ill post some tomorrow.

from this point i decided everything was fitted and that
I could remove the engine for the millionth time and bolt the flywheel,
pressure plate and clutch in because the engine/tranny are ready to go in for the last time.

OR SO I THOUGHT!

Happy new years to all you Fellow SuperTDers out there in the world.
I hope your year is full of good times, smiles and
Throttle standing, tire screeching moments.

Joshua

Om606w201

01-01-2017, 01:56 AM #30

Hows it going guys!

Just to catch y'all up to where im at now.

So ive got the transmission and the engine fitted where i want it.
I started of with the stock mounts
for the engine (w210) along with the stock vibration isolators.
I found that the engine sat way to hi and also tilted down toward the back,
due to the tranny hitting the top of the tunnel and also the back of the head was up against the cars HVAC fan.
The Om602 mounts were not good because the engine sat way to far forwards
also causing issues with the anti role bar and the oil pan.
I found that the stock isolators are to hi and got rid of those first.
I went back to the stock mounts for this engine, and started to think about how to lower the engine.
I looked around for C5 chevy corvette mounts and found the stud to be to short for the casting
Also to fat of a stud to leave enough room to the edge of the casting.

I got a hold of some hockey pucks. (1")
They are vulcanized rubber just like motor mounts and offer some flexibility on setting the right height.
I also got a hold of some scrap 1/2" PTFE for some more flexibility on height.
Ill most likely put a thin finder washer over the top of the the hockey puck for rubber protection.

now that i have the ability to set some what of a customizable height with the puck and Ptfe,
I started to lower the engine and found that with the needed room on top that the oil pan was on the cross member.
I thought about this for a while and determent that i would rather cut the cross member then cut the oil pan.
I made some marks and plas cut out the notch needed. I plated it in with 3/16 Plate.

After doing this is set the engine in again to test fit. i liked the room in between the pan and cross member now,
It was also allowing the transmission to not angle down as much in the rear.
Offering a more straight on with the rear driveshaft carrier bearing.

At this point I started to mess with the anti roll bar mounting strap which was not good. Bit premature.
I added 1-1/8 inch to the strap to allow for the front of the bar to ride clear of the pan.

After this i started to look at where the transmission was in the tunnel
I found it to be to tight for my liking.
also there was absolutely no room,
between where the drive shaft flex disk/Isolater and the shift selector rod needed to be.

I determined at this point that i wanted to lower the transmission.
There needed to be more room between the tunnel and the tranny.
I am not going to cut the tunnel, I made this decision early on when i decided not to go with the 53DZ.
I dont want to fight the interior back into the car after enlarging the tunnel.

The only way to lower the transmission and keep what, some what straight shot to the rear drive line,
I needed to lower the engine more.

I lowered the the engine another (1/2) half inch by removing one PTFE from both sides.
This still allowed for finger distance between the cross member and the pan.
the only problem was that, as the oil pan turns down towards the sump it gets close to the corner of the cross member.
this is because the shallow curve the pan has.

Well shitty. I just got done with the cross member.
These are the things with automotive that just are so much fun.

The corner of the crossmember had to rock back to allow for the room i wanted.

i measured back so that i maintained at least the same distance around the arch as on top of the cross member.
I used some card board to help template the pieces needed. i wanted to make this strong so i spent a little extra time
boxing it in. I cut a 1/4" piece for the bottom and took it all the way out to where the lower control arms meet.

this is finished for now.
I cleared over it for protection but will address cosmetics in the engine bay and engine
once running and all parts are behaving together.

now that the engine is lowered that extra 1/2"
Also bout 8" of sound cloth was removed from the underside of the tunnel.
I was able to get the much needed room above the tranny.
I took a hammer to the inside of the tunnel to round out the lower skin
of the dual walled tunnel.
I did mark up the under coating a little so i put some truck bed line/ under coating and gave a fresh coat.

Now that i am happy with the engine height
and the tranny clearance i can focus on the tranny mount.
this was pretty straight forward,
I traced out the tranny bracket from the BMW on to a 1/4" piece of steel and cut it out.
bolted it to the tranny and and cut out a support piece
I will place a 1/4" piece of rubber between the body and tranny bracket.

Just an FYI the passenger mounting point sets like 1" higher. Through me off for a minute.
Thought the transmission was sitting sideways.

I dont have a bolted up Picture. I will have to take one and upload.

Now that the engine/tranny are set i could determine the position of the intake manifold pipe.
I held up a 90 and eye-balled the possition.
I have been using the plasma cutter on the aluminium
I find if you keep a clean tip and move quickly it makes a somewhat clean cut.
nowhere near steel but you can get things apart.

after some sandin on the belt sander i came up with the basic shape needed.

After i got the shape cut out i traced it onto the manifold and cut that out to.

this piece has been welded up to my the manifold and i dont have pictures of this either.
ill post some tomorrow.

from this point i decided everything was fitted and that
I could remove the engine for the millionth time and bolt the flywheel,
pressure plate and clutch in because the engine/tranny are ready to go in for the last time.

OR SO I THOUGHT!

Happy new years to all you Fellow SuperTDers out there in the world.
I hope your year is full of good times, smiles and
Throttle standing, tire screeching moments.

Joshua

EmJay

Holset

299

01-01-2017, 12:36 PM #31

Your project is looking good there man! I'd sure hope that Fred paid for those welding repairs as it is ultimately his responsibility to make sure that shipped products are secured properly. You paid $4000, he should have bought the extra insurance and a better pallet.

1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans Smile

1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now

EmJay

01-01-2017, 12:36 PM #31

1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans Smile

1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now

Om606w201

K26-2

45

01-02-2017, 02:21 AM #32

There was just over a 1/4" difference. With the auto tranny having less input shaft sticking out.
meaning more bell clearance.

Below is the auto box measurement

Below is the measurement of the input shaft on my F-tune GS6-37dz

Above shows the total distance that i could have had and been clear of all obstructions.
This would have solved my clearance issues with the pressure plate,
but not the other problems with this setup.

At this point i didnt think anything was wrong with the flywheel, it looked stock.
I thought that the problem was all in the bell
I didnt have much luck getting a replacement tranny before with the broken tabs,
I didnt think i was going to get any help with the replacement of faulty workmanship.
so i thought to myself i have to continue on and this 6 speed was part of the scope of my build from the get go.
i was not going to cut the bell off and reweld the 1/4" distances back in.
I dont think welding twice on the bell would be good.
so I decided to sand off the end of the shift rod oil galley to see how far back i needed to go.

Unfortunately not far enough before problems.

I sanded the marks off and as i got to the end i went through.
The picture above shows after i bolted the tranny together again and tested to see if it hit.
It did, leaving more marks on the aluminium. Since i went through into the oil galley
i needed to remove the piece so that i could find out how much i could take off beyond this point.

Below you will see the amount of aluminium i removed to facilitate clearance.
the unfortunate thing is that i can not go any further to allow for the needed material to be add to seal the oil in.
The shift rod comes all the way to this point when in 1,3,5
there is a roller bearing that rolls on three cam lobs on this rod right at this opening.

So this means i cant go any further into the tranny. Ive reached a died end this way.

Now at this point I started to look at the flywheel again being this was the only hope i had
I thought i must need to do something with the thickness.

I called up Jonathan (MR.robs) and he was kind enough to allow me to bring his stuff home for comparison.
i quickly found that his flywheel is way different then mine. For some reason,
his has been machine way down and mine i dont think has been touched,
except for the Sachs 765 bolt holes and locator pins.

The picture below shows my clutch assembly and his next to each other.
why would these be any different?
we both have sachs 765 pressure plates and Om606's.

Now MR.robs flywheel has a lip on the rear and has a shallower back then mine.
His has been machined down to just under 3/8".
I thought to myself how could this have gone together and been test fitted,
before leaving a company specializing in Super turbo diesels.
It hadn't. Nothing was test fitted,
engineering was completely wrong and here i was re-engineering what i paid good money for.

I was so focused on the Oil galley and the aluminium being ground off by the pressure plate
that i completely over looked the clutch engagement.
I figured this had to be calculated by F-tune and it couldn't be wrong.

Below is the measurement from the engine/tranny flange to the backside of the pressure plate.
It is almost exactly 3".

Now i measured from the back side of the pressure plate to the plate springs. Shown in pic below.
This measurement was 7/32" Lets just say 1/4" for easy math. So thats 3"- 1/4"= 2-3/4".

so now i remove the slave cylinder from the transmission
I bottom the clutch fork and throw out bearing completely against the back of the bell housing casting.
the picture below shows this measurement.

This measurement was 2". Now lets think,
the pressure plate springs sit 2-3/4" for the flange and the throw out bearing completely bottomed out is 2".
This leaves me going no where permanently!!
with 3/4" of engagement on the clutch before my foot is even on the clutch pedal.

So now I'm faced with pressure plate hitting oil galley
and clutch being engaged 3/4" due to bottomed out throw out bearing.
So is it as simple as machining my flywheel now? No..

The problem is that the back side of my flywheel has a little deeper indentation than Jonathans.

If i was to machine down the flywheel 3/4",
enough to de-engage my clutch it would leave me with 7/32 of flywheel In the middle.
where i have a sprung plate pushing 765Lbs of pressure.

NOT GOING TO HAPPEN.

There is no way this would hold together.
especially due to the fact that I am not putting this much effort into a car
and not go and turn this thing up to the highest of horsepower levels possible.

Let me ask you guys 500HP and 500 ft/lbs at 5800rpm and a 7/32 flywheel???
would you even get in the car?

So know that i figured out every measurement and found the problems at hand.
In need to find a solution, i contacted F-tune.
I have been back and forth with F-tune.
finally after being told that this flywheel was the pink unicorn for this build.
i was told to send it back for a "normal" flywheel.
i was also told to washer out the transmission from the engine to give myself the clearance.
Why this stuff was not figured out before shipment?
Why is it so different then other products sold by F-tune?
I dont want to send my flywheel back
after being told they were going to use it in there build but cant explain
how there going to make it work for them over there.
I guess it has something to do with our air.

(above) To double check everything i measured from the face of the bell back to the clutch pad
the same distance that the friction surface of the flywheel sits of the engine flange face.

I then measured the total spline section of the clutch.
I determined That the clutch is riding completely on the spline section
but very far back and close to the end as the splines end right at the throw out bearing guild sleeve.
I do have room to machine down the flywheel a little bit and not have to worry about the clutch
coming off the front of the splines.

So now for the fixes... how am i going to do this??

I started by thinking of getting a hold of tilton performance
which make lots of race parts but are known for there custom flywheels.
I thought i will have them make me a flywheel where the back is flat and doesnt have a the big channel in the back.
This will allow for the 3/4' of flywheel reduction needed to de-engage my clutch
and still leave some meat out back per say.
this will also allow for lots of clearance between the pressure plate and oil galley.

Then i saw a picture of something I've seen many times before.

DDUUHHHH!! Shitty thing is i just bout the slave cylinder and F-tunes parts should work as promised and i shouldn't have to purchase more parts to make theirs work.

The great thing is this measures 1.71" tall and the clutch fork and throw out bearing are removed.
This will allow for all the room needed to clear the clutch.

The only thing i have to get fixed is the pressure plate hitting on the oil galley.
I welded on a 1/8 plate to seal the oil galley back up.
you can see the pic below is taken through the slave cylinder hole.
at the top of the picture you can see the tig weld. I am still hitting on the rivets but at least im off the clutch.

I need to have the flywheel taken down. Im thinking 3/16.
the rivet stands 3/32 high so that would give me 3/32 of clearance.

This is a question to all of you. will that 3/32 be enough?
what is a proper bell housing clearance?
will the pressure plate move this distance back and forth?
what would be a safe distance between these too?
have any of you ran a hydraulic throw out with a stock w201 clutch pedal?

Thanks for your support!!
This is sure to be an epic build and im stoked to share it with you guys.
Got a couple questions on if im a mechanic.
The answer is no. I do this for fun,
i am a big time auto enthusiast and diesel fanatic.
i have built cars and bikes for years.
just this is my first mercedes build.
I've played with a couple e30 in the past and a i had a MK1 small block capri.
but these are the only euros.
a few american cars too.

Like i said above im not a mechanic and i dont have my car at a shop.
the car is at my house and i do all the work in my garage.
i spend a a couple hours a week out there tinkering.

Cheers

Josh

This post was last modified: 01-07-2017, 09:36 PM by Om606w201.

Om606w201

01-02-2017, 02:21 AM #32

Unfortunately not as much progress as hoped happened over the holiday break i had.
I took the week off for Christmas and was hoping to get a few more hours in on the car per day.
I bolted the tranny together with the engine and put it in for the last time...

That was until i decided to turn the engine by hand right before i testing the starter. Its a good thing i did
I was hoping to have it fired up in the car for the new years. Not going to happen.

The engine and transmission are locked up solid. So i had to pull the engine back out, major mood downer.
So come to find out the pressure plate is hitting the bell housing and also the clutch is engaged 3/4".

This picture was the first thing i saw when i separated the two.
At this point in time I thought the bell housing was
off and so i checked the measurements between the auto and the DZ.

There was just over a 1/4" difference. With the auto tranny having less input shaft sticking out.
meaning more bell clearance.

Below is the auto box measurement

Below is the measurement of the input shaft on my F-tune GS6-37dz

Above shows the total distance that i could have had and been clear of all obstructions.
This would have solved my clearance issues with the pressure plate,
but not the other problems with this setup.

At this point i didnt think anything was wrong with the flywheel, it looked stock.
I thought that the problem was all in the bell
I didnt have much luck getting a replacement tranny before with the broken tabs,
I didnt think i was going to get any help with the replacement of faulty workmanship.
so i thought to myself i have to continue on and this 6 speed was part of the scope of my build from the get go.
i was not going to cut the bell off and reweld the 1/4" distances back in.
I dont think welding twice on the bell would be good.
so I decided to sand off the end of the shift rod oil galley to see how far back i needed to go.

Unfortunately not far enough before problems.

I sanded the marks off and as i got to the end i went through.
The picture above shows after i bolted the tranny together again and tested to see if it hit.
It did, leaving more marks on the aluminium. Since i went through into the oil galley
i needed to remove the piece so that i could find out how much i could take off beyond this point.

Below you will see the amount of aluminium i removed to facilitate clearance.
the unfortunate thing is that i can not go any further to allow for the needed material to be add to seal the oil in.
The shift rod comes all the way to this point when in 1,3,5
there is a roller bearing that rolls on three cam lobs on this rod right at this opening.

So this means i cant go any further into the tranny. Ive reached a died end this way.

Now at this point I started to look at the flywheel again being this was the only hope i had
I thought i must need to do something with the thickness.

I called up Jonathan (MR.robs) and he was kind enough to allow me to bring his stuff home for comparison.
i quickly found that his flywheel is way different then mine. For some reason,
his has been machine way down and mine i dont think has been touched,
except for the Sachs 765 bolt holes and locator pins.

The picture below shows my clutch assembly and his next to each other.
why would these be any different?
we both have sachs 765 pressure plates and Om606's.

Now MR.robs flywheel has a lip on the rear and has a shallower back then mine.
His has been machined down to just under 3/8".
I thought to myself how could this have gone together and been test fitted,
before leaving a company specializing in Super turbo diesels.
It hadn't. Nothing was test fitted,
engineering was completely wrong and here i was re-engineering what i paid good money for.

I was so focused on the Oil galley and the aluminium being ground off by the pressure plate
that i completely over looked the clutch engagement.
I figured this had to be calculated by F-tune and it couldn't be wrong.

Below is the measurement from the engine/tranny flange to the backside of the pressure plate.
It is almost exactly 3".

Now i measured from the back side of the pressure plate to the plate springs. Shown in pic below.
This measurement was 7/32" Lets just say 1/4" for easy math. So thats 3"- 1/4"= 2-3/4".

so now i remove the slave cylinder from the transmission
I bottom the clutch fork and throw out bearing completely against the back of the bell housing casting.
the picture below shows this measurement.

This measurement was 2". Now lets think,
the pressure plate springs sit 2-3/4" for the flange and the throw out bearing completely bottomed out is 2".
This leaves me going no where permanently!!
with 3/4" of engagement on the clutch before my foot is even on the clutch pedal.

So now I'm faced with pressure plate hitting oil galley
and clutch being engaged 3/4" due to bottomed out throw out bearing.
So is it as simple as machining my flywheel now? No..

The problem is that the back side of my flywheel has a little deeper indentation than Jonathans.

If i was to machine down the flywheel 3/4",
enough to de-engage my clutch it would leave me with 7/32 of flywheel In the middle.
where i have a sprung plate pushing 765Lbs of pressure.

NOT GOING TO HAPPEN.

There is no way this would hold together.
especially due to the fact that I am not putting this much effort into a car
and not go and turn this thing up to the highest of horsepower levels possible.

Let me ask you guys 500HP and 500 ft/lbs at 5800rpm and a 7/32 flywheel???
would you even get in the car?

So know that i figured out every measurement and found the problems at hand.
In need to find a solution, i contacted F-tune.
I have been back and forth with F-tune.
finally after being told that this flywheel was the pink unicorn for this build.
i was told to send it back for a "normal" flywheel.
i was also told to washer out the transmission from the engine to give myself the clearance.
Why this stuff was not figured out before shipment?
Why is it so different then other products sold by F-tune?
I dont want to send my flywheel back
after being told they were going to use it in there build but cant explain
how there going to make it work for them over there.
I guess it has something to do with our air.

(above) To double check everything i measured from the face of the bell back to the clutch pad
the same distance that the friction surface of the flywheel sits of the engine flange face.

I then measured the total spline section of the clutch.
I determined That the clutch is riding completely on the spline section
but very far back and close to the end as the splines end right at the throw out bearing guild sleeve.
I do have room to machine down the flywheel a little bit and not have to worry about the clutch
coming off the front of the splines.

So now for the fixes... how am i going to do this??

I started by thinking of getting a hold of tilton performance
which make lots of race parts but are known for there custom flywheels.
I thought i will have them make me a flywheel where the back is flat and doesnt have a the big channel in the back.
This will allow for the 3/4' of flywheel reduction needed to de-engage my clutch
and still leave some meat out back per say.
this will also allow for lots of clearance between the pressure plate and oil galley.

Then i saw a picture of something I've seen many times before.

DDUUHHHH!! Shitty thing is i just bout the slave cylinder and F-tunes parts should work as promised and i shouldn't have to purchase more parts to make theirs work.

The great thing is this measures 1.71" tall and the clutch fork and throw out bearing are removed.
This will allow for all the room needed to clear the clutch.

The only thing i have to get fixed is the pressure plate hitting on the oil galley.
I welded on a 1/8 plate to seal the oil galley back up.
you can see the pic below is taken through the slave cylinder hole.
at the top of the picture you can see the tig weld. I am still hitting on the rivets but at least im off the clutch.

I need to have the flywheel taken down. Im thinking 3/16.
the rivet stands 3/32 high so that would give me 3/32 of clearance.

This is a question to all of you. will that 3/32 be enough?
what is a proper bell housing clearance?
will the pressure plate move this distance back and forth?
what would be a safe distance between these too?
have any of you ran a hydraulic throw out with a stock w201 clutch pedal?

Thanks for your support!!
This is sure to be an epic build and im stoked to share it with you guys.
Got a couple questions on if im a mechanic.
The answer is no. I do this for fun,
i am a big time auto enthusiast and diesel fanatic.
i have built cars and bikes for years.
just this is my first mercedes build.
I've played with a couple e30 in the past and a i had a MK1 small block capri.
but these are the only euros.
a few american cars too.

Like i said above im not a mechanic and i dont have my car at a shop.
the car is at my house and i do all the work in my garage.
i spend a a couple hours a week out there tinkering.

Cheers

Josh

hents99

GT2256V

157

01-02-2017, 03:01 AM #33

I use hydraulic release clutch bearing with stock w201 pedal pump and 3-disc Alcon clutch. Working.
Wish you luck with your car!

------------------------------------------------------------------------
www.elbe.ee - MB performance parts.

hents99

01-02-2017, 03:01 AM #33

I use hydraulic release clutch bearing with stock w201 pedal pump and 3-disc Alcon clutch. Working.
Wish you luck with your car!

------------------------------------------------------------------------
www.elbe.ee - MB performance parts.

Spoolin

Naturally-aspirated

10

01-02-2017, 06:52 AM #34

I can't imagine dealing with a product like that from ftune. Keep up the progress. What did you use to cut the intake manifold before welding on the final inlet pipe.

Spoolin

01-02-2017, 06:52 AM #34

I can't imagine dealing with a product like that from ftune. Keep up the progress. What did you use to cut the intake manifold before welding on the final inlet pipe.

EmJay

Holset

299

01-02-2017, 09:06 AM #35

Dude it sounds like they dropped the ball on ya and they keep digging.

1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans Smile

1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now

EmJay

01-02-2017, 09:06 AM #35

Dude it sounds like they dropped the ball on ya and they keep digging.

1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans Smile

1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now

Keino

GT2256V

151

01-02-2017, 11:23 AM #36

Man! Im feeling very sorry for you.
I can't believe its the same company I bought my custom fw +pp/clutch for my om617.

I just LOVE the impressive way of describing what you are doing and thinking etc, and good pictures with that.

Interesting reading!
Hope you are done with the "bad times" now Exclamation

Keep it up! Heart

Keino

01-02-2017, 11:23 AM #36

Om606w201

K26-2

45

01-02-2017, 02:40 PM #37

Hents99

Thank you for the reply.
I think this tilton will work for my application. Do you remember what brand/Model throw out bearing your using?

Spoolin,

I cut the manifold hole with a plasma cutter. Due to the cuts on the aluminum not being the cleanest i undercut the hole and then used a porting tool to clean right up to the line that was traced on by the pipe i cut and held up to it. for the fish-eye i used the top of my belt sander.

Emjay,

Yes, all the parts are here and i will make what i have work.

Keino,

Thanks for the positive words, Not sure if i was saying to much. sometimes there trying times put never bad times. This is a hobby and needs to stay fun in order to see large modifications through.

To all,

If there is anything you want me to touch base on, Just ask. If there is anything you think i should do different please hauler.
All you all are pros in one way or another and might have easier or strong methods of putting out a killer product or design.

I thought about this build for a couple years and then came up with a budget and parts list of things i wanted this car to be.
I then pulled the trigger and started the hunt for all the parts to bring it together. I found that this is a small crowd in comparison to all the other automotive trends out there especially in the USA. the parts are hard to come by and finding info on specifics is sometimes hair pulling to say the least. i find that images help on the web to lead to none English spoken forums and builds, but this sometimes leads to nothing. I figured i would do something new for this build than my past builds and that's to join a forum and share the info good or bad that i encounter in the process. i feel if we share the info on these turbo diesels and show a process of completion that more of the on lookers might get involved and save some of these diesel from the recycling yards.
The om606 in this county is hard to come by and the cars that have them and on the road are still a bit to much for purchase and engine removal alone. this is starting to change though, these diesel are getting older and cheaper. the more of a following they have through this stage the more available parts will be, aftermarket and OEM.

For the product that i received from f-tune, i want you guys to make your own decision on where you get your part. I dont know if all F-tunes part are like mine. i am just simply sharing the process step by step that i run into. maybe there are parts out there from this company or others that have not been installed yet and once they are, they might run into these problems. this is a grouping of common knowledge and needs to grow, and here i stay to share the ups and downs.

Josh

Om606w201

01-02-2017, 02:40 PM #37

hooblah

Holset

401

01-02-2017, 07:42 PM #38

Looking good Josh. Nice to see your perseverance. I have a 201 build thread on here somewhere, haven't updated in a couple of years though!

hooblah

01-02-2017, 07:42 PM #38

Looking good Josh. Nice to see your perseverance. I have a 201 build thread on here somewhere, haven't updated in a couple of years though!

maxypriest

Holset

287

01-03-2017, 01:10 PM #39

Cripes josh! Keep it up dude!

W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs

maxypriest

01-03-2017, 01:10 PM #39

Cripes josh! Keep it up dude!

W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs

hents99

GT2256V

157

01-06-2017, 03:20 AM #40

I used my own designed hydraulic clutch release bearing and flywheel as well as on my W201 2.3-16 Turbocharged.

[Image: DSC_3752.jpg]

------------------------------------------------------------------------
www.elbe.ee - MB performance parts.

hents99

01-06-2017, 03:20 AM #40

I used my own designed hydraulic clutch release bearing and flywheel as well as on my W201 2.3-16 Turbocharged.

[Image: DSC_3752.jpg]

------------------------------------------------------------------------
www.elbe.ee - MB performance parts.

Om606w201

K26-2

45

01-08-2017, 05:50 PM #41

Does anyone now what anti roll bar this is? Or is this a regular w201 bar that's bent?

This post was last modified: 01-09-2017, 04:29 PM by Om606w201.

Om606w201

01-08-2017, 05:50 PM #41

Does anyone now what anti roll bar this is? Or is this a regular w201 bar that's bent?

-Mackan-

GT2256V

117

01-09-2017, 05:43 PM #42

Could be from an w124 with a v8 Smile

------------------------------------------------
Cars currently owned:

1993 Mercedes Benz 300TDT W124
1992 Mercedes Benz 500E W124

-Mackan-

01-09-2017, 05:43 PM #42

Could be from an w124 with a v8 Smile

------------------------------------------------
Cars currently owned:

1993 Mercedes Benz 300TDT W124
1992 Mercedes Benz 500E W124

rafael cotrim

Holset hx55 eaton90

22

01-19-2017, 03:40 AM #43

W124 v8
I had the same problem with the sway bar . I used a custom made "washers" to lower it . About 3cm or less ....
But I am using oem motor mounts. Good clerance on the cross member but I had to cut the bonnet. There are several types of bonnet. Mine needed to be cut.

This post was last modified: 01-19-2017, 03:44 AM by rafael cotrim.

If it don`t blow smoke , it must be broke ! W201- Angel

rafael cotrim

01-19-2017, 03:40 AM #43

If it don`t blow smoke , it must be broke ! W201- Angel

Om606w201

K26-2

45

01-19-2017, 06:24 PM #44

I need to get a hold of a V8 bar if this is the case. Using new lower profile mounts i am able to fit the engine and not have to touch the hood.
I don't want to cut my hood. also i will most likely be going to a full carbon bonnet.

Rafael, do you have a project or build thread anywhere? if you could post some pics of you car that would be awesome.

That goes for anyone with a 190d w201 Om606 car. The more pics of cars the better. Its great motivation for all of us building these cars.

Joshua

Om606w201

01-19-2017, 06:24 PM #44

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

01-19-2017, 06:51 PM #45

I understand the W124 V8 ARB works like the others said but I am sure you have to trim down the ends a few inches to suit the narrower track of the 201.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

01-19-2017, 06:51 PM #45

I understand the W124 V8 ARB works like the others said but I am sure you have to trim down the ends a few inches to suit the narrower track of the 201.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

rafael cotrim

Holset hx55 eaton90

22

01-20-2017, 06:32 AM #46

The v8 bar is always better . But you have to trim down the ends and use larger bushings , (sportline ones maybe )... Here its hard to find and expensive...
My car is not ready yet.

This post was last modified: 01-20-2017, 06:34 AM by rafael cotrim.

If it don`t blow smoke , it must be broke ! W201- Angel

rafael cotrim

01-20-2017, 06:32 AM #46

The v8 bar is always better . But you have to trim down the ends and use larger bushings , (sportline ones maybe )... Here its hard to find and expensive...
My car is not ready yet.

If it don`t blow smoke , it must be broke ! W201- Angel

Pipenøkkel

Naturally-aspirated

7

03-11-2017, 04:34 PM #47

any news?

_______________________________________________

177 HP provided by Mercedes Benz.
The other 500 supplied by Dieselmeken AB and Borg Warner

Pipenøkkel

03-11-2017, 04:34 PM #47

any news?

_______________________________________________

177 HP provided by Mercedes Benz.
The other 500 supplied by Dieselmeken AB and Borg Warner

Om606w201

K26-2

45

03-12-2017, 11:37 PM #48

1/2 inch will need to be taken out of the flywheel in order to clear.
In order to take that out of the friction face the channel on the backside will be filled in on the new one.
He is working on it now and should be done with it in another week or so.

i removed the ring gear from my flex disk off the auto tranny
and sent that to him so that this flywheel will be untouched and able to
used again for another tranny project.

Here is the ring gear number for anyone needing it.
this one was a lot nicer than the one i got.

I need to be better about posting more frequntly. im looking back through pics and its all a blur.
thank good for pictures.

so i grabbed a few socket to see what size the end of the shift rod was, and though why cant i use an extension
for shifting. I picked up a 1/4 drive set and put is together with the swivel.
i cant believe how there is absolutely no movement in the rod.

what do you guys think out there?

welded nicely.

I have loads more pictures and some pretty nifty projects ive worked through.
Ill post through out the week to catch you all up.

Josh

Om606w201

03-12-2017, 11:37 PM #48

News! Yes yes.. sorry its been some time. really busy in life but have figured out a few more things.
I made all the measurement and sent off the flywheel to a guy for a new flywheel to be made.
Below are pics of the flywheel remarks that needed to be change in order for me to
finally put my car together for the last time.

1/2 inch will need to be taken out of the flywheel in order to clear.
In order to take that out of the friction face the channel on the backside will be filled in on the new one.
He is working on it now and should be done with it in another week or so.

i removed the ring gear from my flex disk off the auto tranny
and sent that to him so that this flywheel will be untouched and able to
used again for another tranny project.

Here is the ring gear number for anyone needing it.
this one was a lot nicer than the one i got.

I need to be better about posting more frequntly. im looking back through pics and its all a blur.
thank good for pictures.

so i grabbed a few socket to see what size the end of the shift rod was, and though why cant i use an extension
for shifting. I picked up a 1/4 drive set and put is together with the swivel.
i cant believe how there is absolutely no movement in the rod.

what do you guys think out there?

welded nicely.

I have loads more pictures and some pretty nifty projects ive worked through.
Ill post through out the week to catch you all up.

Josh

CRD4x4

CompoundSuperTurboDiesel4x4!

399

03-13-2017, 06:22 AM #49

Nice shift linkage hack! Best part is if it breaks, you can return to Sears for a free replacement!

Keep em coming!

CRD4x4

03-13-2017, 06:22 AM #49

Nice shift linkage hack! Best part is if it breaks, you can return to Sears for a free replacement!

Keep em coming!

Om606w201

K26-2

45

03-13-2017, 06:15 PM #50

RIGHT!! Thats hilarious!

Om606w201

03-13-2017, 06:15 PM #50

RIGHT!! Thats hilarious!

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