Baby Holset Turbo Conversion build thread
Baby Holset Turbo Conversion build thread
Hello to all
Been delaying this project for a bit, and I've now started, better make a thread.
To summarise, I bought a 1978 300D a couple of years back. It was 4 speed NA, with a 1980 (dunno why) 617.912. About a year ago we swapped a 617.952 engine with a 5 speed 711.113 from a T1 van into it. Trouble is it burns oil like no tomorrow - probably just a seal gone in the turbo, but I've got better plans for that engine...
So, I'm going to swap the .912 back in. Marry it with the turbo exhaust manifold from the other engine, and attach a Holset HE200WG to it (thanks to Alcaid!). Idea being reasonable flow for a NA>turbo conversion. Rather small on the hot side helping to spool quick, and probably preventing me from blowing up the NA engine due to choking at high RPM Still, this turbo made 186hp on a 1.6 IDI VW.
I bought a cheap water/air intercooler on ebay which turned out to be enormous...going to use it with a radiator off a Renault.
With that is a 7.5mm M pump. It's a bit OTT for a formerly NA engine but it'll get swapped onto the .952 eventually. Looking at feeding it with a Bosch 044 pump (hate electrical things on an all mechanical diesel so will have to "work on that" ).
Seeing that I will have an excess of fuel, I thought I be best to install piston oil squirters too. Also looking at water injection to help keep things cool.
Zee turbo:
What it's to be mated with: (pardon the messy garage)
Almost forgot about this thread...
Been waiting on parts, the most important ones have arrived
Barrote built me a one of a kind 7.5mm element M pump with a governor from a 60x series with fancy bits, factory ALDA and vacuum actuated fast idle etc. Fricken awesome!
Bought a couple of 044 pumps (one as a spare) to boost the stock lift pump when I hoof it. A Bosch electric water pump for the A/W intercooler. Also a T25 to T3 adaptor, cheapest one I could find on eBay, should've bought a cast one - this one is warped from the welding, need to get the mounting surfaces ground true
As for the car itself, I've taken the manifolds + turbo off the .952 so I can mock up where everything goes. Also started it up briefly (turbo oil supply blocked off!) and cylinders 2 & 4 blow copious smoke...just as well I'm swapping engines...
Not been up to much on this, been distracted by other projects...
Went to a engine workshop yesterday, too see about installing oil squirters.
I was thinking they could somehow leave the crank etc in and still get the drill in the right places. Oh no....got to take the crank out, pistons + rods out, then of course the head has to come off to reinstall the pistons, and the oil galleries need flushing out (thought maybe a clever vacuum cleaner adaptor might do that) but of course they don't want me coming back saying my engine is ruined because some swarf ended up in a oil channel and now my engine is an anchor. Going to those lengths I may as well rebuild it while I'm at it!
So anyway I'm not going to bother with the squirters. Just going with the water injection and EGT monitoring. And boost to keep things lean, provided it doesn't choke things up with the small turbine.....
Here's hoping. So easy to blast fuel at it though
Still making progress, albeit glacial...getting used to a Japanese DD is a bad thing
Got the T25-T3 adaptor machined down, also got the workshop to do something else...
Got my rusty old OM616 flywheel machined down to 7 kg. Fitted it today but of course have no idea if it was balanced right but we'll see.
Only thing holding me up is that our garage is so full of crap I can't get anything in or out. Still looking for a 1/8 NPT tap for the turbo oil feed from the oil filter housing lid, and the drain in the sump which I might be able to put into the lower steel sump. Took the front wheels off as I have a warped rotor but I see I have to take the bearings etc off, bugger...
(02-08-2016, 01:02 AM)NZScott Fitted it today but of course have no idea if it was balanced right but we'll see.
(02-08-2016, 01:02 AM)NZScott Fitted it today but of course have no idea if it was balanced right but we'll see.
Yes well... probably would be a good idea. I haven't torqued the bolts back down yet, may check if anyone in town does FW balancing
Ok, time for an update.
I took the flywheel off and got it balanced, a 1.5hr drive away...anyway the guy doing it was quite concerned how light the other flywheel was. With just the pressure plate on it weighs half of what the old stock one does without the PP (about 8.2kg and the other 16.5 IIRC). The stock one was quite off balance and so the balancing guy thought there wouldn't be enough weight in the new FW to counter the out of balance crank if you get what I mean.
But anyway he welded a steel chunk onto the PP and said try it carefully...
The other thing was that I've abandoned the HE200 in favour of a HX30.
I was worried that the low end oomph could bend the rods (with a superpump it'd be easily done vs stock fueling) and the turbine choking at high rpm would lead to high EGP and EGT etc also, potentially frying pistons. I could've gone to a HE221 but the HX30 was not only cheaper but the wastegate actuator goes off a bracket on the turbine housing. All I have to do is get a T3 flanged plate made up to offset the compressor housing enough to clear the #1 cyl inlet runner...
I've fitted the manifolds onto the engine, exhaust has the pyrometer probe and EGP fitting in it. Dodgily soldered on a 3/4" fitting to the sump that I hope won't start leaking...
Fitted my superpump from barrote onto the engine the other day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KO7SXBuMswI
Engine doesn't want to throw itself apart flywheel balance wise so gonna swap her in.
Progress report?
Got the engine swapped in but still hasn't run in the car yet.
Car's been getting a full 3" exhaust installed which took a month...anyway I got the car back today. Fitted the oil cooler which had a thread repaired. Turbo isn't quite fitting and I can't get the bottom rear nut on the exhaust manifold on...but other than that making some progress.
Going to leave the intercooler off until after I get it road legal again. Need the room to try fit my landcruiser air filter housing in. She's also got some rust that needs sorting yet.
My current radiator has the plastic tanks (ugh) and had a run in with the fan at one stage which meant some tubes had to be soldered up. Also it's not the wider "turbo" radiator... not wanting to risk cooking the girl, looking at fitting a universal aluminium radiator in since nobody has the Spectra Cu672 in stock.
Any chance of getting the thread renamed? HX30W isn't really a baby now..
(08-01-2016, 03:55 AM)NZScott Progress report?
Got the engine swapped in but still hasn't run in the car yet.
Car's been getting a full 3" exhaust installed which took a month...anyway I got the car back today. Fitted the oil cooler which had a thread repaired. Turbo isn't quite fitting and I can't get the bottom rear nut on the exhaust manifold on...but other than that making some progress.
Going to leave the intercooler off until after I get it road legal again. Need the room to try fit my landcruiser air filter housing in. She's also got some rust that needs sorting yet.
My current radiator has the plastic tanks (ugh) and had a run in with the fan at one stage which meant some tubes had to be soldered up. Also it's not the wider "turbo" radiator... not wanting to risk cooking the girl, looking at fitting a universal aluminium radiator in since nobody has the Spectra Cu672 in stock.
Any chance of getting the thread renamed? HX30W isn't really a baby now..
(08-01-2016, 03:55 AM)NZScott Progress report?
Got the engine swapped in but still hasn't run in the car yet.
Car's been getting a full 3" exhaust installed which took a month...anyway I got the car back today. Fitted the oil cooler which had a thread repaired. Turbo isn't quite fitting and I can't get the bottom rear nut on the exhaust manifold on...but other than that making some progress.
Going to leave the intercooler off until after I get it road legal again. Need the room to try fit my landcruiser air filter housing in. She's also got some rust that needs sorting yet.
My current radiator has the plastic tanks (ugh) and had a run in with the fan at one stage which meant some tubes had to be soldered up. Also it's not the wider "turbo" radiator... not wanting to risk cooking the girl, looking at fitting a universal aluminium radiator in since nobody has the Spectra Cu672 in stock.
Any chance of getting the thread renamed? HX30W isn't really a baby now..
They would be a viable option if it weren't for my hatred of plastic radiator necks... which I've seen far too many come to a steamy end
(08-01-2016, 03:58 PM)NZScott They would be a viable option if it weren't for my hatred of plastic radiator necks... which I've seen far too many come to a steamy end
(08-01-2016, 03:58 PM)NZScott They would be a viable option if it weren't for my hatred of plastic radiator necks... which I've seen far too many come to a steamy end
Haha. I just don't like the idea of plastic....seen cars overheat because the hose necks cracked, and a generic alu radiator is about the same cost anyway.
Well anyway I've got most of it put together.
Intake manifold is a major PITA. Required a crap load of grinding to get the compressor housing to fit. The modified stock turbo oil feed end needed the flange cut away just to sink the bolt head down more to clear the bottom of the manifold. Would kill to have a 115 manifold!
Hooked air filter to turbo, and turbo piped direct to intake. The landcruiser air filter is pretty big and hogs all the space for the W/A IC.
Fitted the old radiator with intentions to take the car for a bit of a run but the oil cooler doesn't fit (also noticed a slight oil leak...) so think I'll just go ahead and get a new radiator. Bit strange as my old wagon which the cooler is from had the normal W123 radiator and it fitted...
Have run the engine for a few seconds now and then but there's quite a substantial leak from the T3 extension to manifold join so I have to tear apart everything before I carry on, also it's a bit reluctant to start and very cackly sounding so I'll be taking the pump off to re-time.
Oh boy. My hx30 fit fine with factory turbo manifolds. I just had to cut my egr port off the exhaust.
Yea, I've still got the factory turbo one. Just don't like it
Got things mostly together, a lot just temporary at the moment. Haven't got my boost, EMP or EGT gauges installed yet
Took it for a wee spin around the block....wow!
Accelerator is an on/off switch which was a given since this pump puts out 4x the old one, what makes it worse is my accelerator cable is actually a handbrake cable with high friction (broke my original cable). I'm going to look at the linkage and try adjust the leverage. Car is bloody quick even with my external throttle stop wound in as far as it can. Engine slips the clutch like mad and blew off the hose on top of the intake twice All good fun though...
https://youtu.be/T32zd6ff5-0
Fiddled with the accelerator linkage yesterday, going to re-time the pump today
(08-10-2016, 08:03 PM)NZScott Got things mostly together, a lot just temporary at the moment. Haven't got my boost, EMP or EGT gauges installed yet
Took it for a wee spin around the block....wow!
Accelerator is an on/off switch which was a given since this pump puts out 4x the old one, what makes it worse is my accelerator cable is actually a handbrake cable with high friction (broke my original cable). I'm going to look at the linkage and try adjust the leverage. Car is bloody quick even with my external throttle stop wound in as far as it can. Engine slips the clutch like mad and blew off the hose on top of the intake twice All good fun though...
(08-10-2016, 08:03 PM)NZScott Got things mostly together, a lot just temporary at the moment. Haven't got my boost, EMP or EGT gauges installed yet
Took it for a wee spin around the block....wow!
Accelerator is an on/off switch which was a given since this pump puts out 4x the old one, what makes it worse is my accelerator cable is actually a handbrake cable with high friction (broke my original cable). I'm going to look at the linkage and try adjust the leverage. Car is bloody quick even with my external throttle stop wound in as far as it can. Engine slips the clutch like mad and blew off the hose on top of the intake twice All good fun though...
(08-18-2016, 11:51 AM)Hario Maybe Google: 'progressive throttle linkage' for ideas. Probably rob one from an OEM throttle body in the junk yardd
(08-18-2016, 02:02 PM)Keino How did I miss this thread.
Cool project!
Im gonna be sure to check in and watch ur progress
(08-18-2016, 11:51 AM)Hario Maybe Google: 'progressive throttle linkage' for ideas. Probably rob one from an OEM throttle body in the junk yardd
(08-18-2016, 02:02 PM)Keino How did I miss this thread.
Cool project!
Im gonna be sure to check in and watch ur progress
I haven't finished the rust repairs, waiting on a mate of a mate who can weld sorta thing but put the car back together enough to take it for a test run. I had added a boost pressure gauge and added an extra spring to the accelerator linkage (and a return stop, took out the bit of hose I had earlier tucked behind the pedal). No EGT display yet.
Woweee this thing is quick. Much better accelerator, but still gets some surging with certain situations. Clutch holds together not too bad, slips in the mid range when I guess it's peak torque. Very little smoke, the HX30 spools really well. I had 25psi + and thought my wastegate hose had popped off but nope so might take my boost controller right out and put shims behind the actuator can to lower it...
Coolant gauge wiring needs looking into.
Other main problem is my compressor housing came loose when speeding up to 100kph, probably pushing 30psi+.
I had a really hard time taking the circlip off to clock the compressor housing, not realising it had no dowel pin so I could've just loosened it to turn the housing.
Had so much trouble putting it back on I cut it in half and hammered the two bits in...yea not clever and I've paid the price.
So where can I get a HX30 compressor housing circlip from? Are they a standard size?
Yup, that was my plan B lol
I fixed the turbo, bit of a hack job, no pics of it haven't had a run with it yet either...
Just lately been busy but took spare tyre and mount out to put my ultracap pack into it, freeing the battery tray later on for my W/A tank/icebox. Just have to get a big cable terminal crimper and I can run the cable along the fuel lines etc.
I do get really bad vibes just off idle (shakes entire car side to side) but above that you can't feel much. The flywheel balancing guy said lightening the FW as much as I did it would be impossible to get it perfect, the original FW was quite off balance and he ended up welding a weight onto the pressure plate (visible in a pic above). Wish I had a neutrally/internal balanced engine. Hope my turbo engine is...
Yup stock 215mm, I put a new kit in. Going to take it all off before I ruin it from slipping too much, I would then basically have enough bits for a future 4 speed conversion for another 123.
I was browsing for 240mm clutch bits after getting some advice from F.R.A.S and come upon a SPEC clutch kit rated for 440 ft-lb (~590Nm) meant for a BMW 535i. 240mm sinter. It was $140 USD unused 2nd hand as opposed to $490 new, a no brainer really, over here LS clutches are too big and Jap clutch kits (RB26 etc) are $800-1400. Going to get the oldest of my 3 617 FWs machined to fit it and rebalanced. Will be interesting as to what weight it is because the BMW flywheel is flat. Might have to get weights added to the PP again.
(10-30-2016, 12:07 AM)NZScott I do get really bad vibes just off idle (shakes entire car side to side) but above that you can't feel much. The flywheel balancing guy said lightening the FW as much as I did it would be impossible to get it perfect, the original FW was quite off balance and he ended up welding a weight onto the pressure plate (visible in a pic above). Wish I had a neutrally/internal balanced engine. Hope my turbo engine is...
Yup stock 215mm, I put a new kit in. Going to take it all off before I ruin it from slipping too much, I would then basically have enough bits for a future 4 speed conversion for another 123.
I was browsing for 240mm clutch bits after getting some advice from F.R.A.S and come upon a SPEC clutch kit rated for 440 ft-lb (~590Nm) meant for a BMW 535i. 240mm sinter. It was $140 USD unused 2nd hand as opposed to $490 new, a no brainer really, over here LS clutches are too big and Jap clutch kits (RB26 etc) are $800-1400. Going to get the oldest of my 3 617 FWs machined to fit it and rebalanced. Will be interesting as to what weight it is because the BMW flywheel is flat. Might have to get weights added to the PP again.
(10-30-2016, 12:07 AM)NZScott I do get really bad vibes just off idle (shakes entire car side to side) but above that you can't feel much. The flywheel balancing guy said lightening the FW as much as I did it would be impossible to get it perfect, the original FW was quite off balance and he ended up welding a weight onto the pressure plate (visible in a pic above). Wish I had a neutrally/internal balanced engine. Hope my turbo engine is...
Yup stock 215mm, I put a new kit in. Going to take it all off before I ruin it from slipping too much, I would then basically have enough bits for a future 4 speed conversion for another 123.
I was browsing for 240mm clutch bits after getting some advice from F.R.A.S and come upon a SPEC clutch kit rated for 440 ft-lb (~590Nm) meant for a BMW 535i. 240mm sinter. It was $140 USD unused 2nd hand as opposed to $490 new, a no brainer really, over here LS clutches are too big and Jap clutch kits (RB26 etc) are $800-1400. Going to get the oldest of my 3 617 FWs machined to fit it and rebalanced. Will be interesting as to what weight it is because the BMW flywheel is flat. Might have to get weights added to the PP again.
Sorry don't have a Getrag box, my old iron box 4 speed used to do exactly what you're describing though with the stock flywheel
(10-30-2016, 04:26 PM)NZScott Sorry don't have a Getrag box, my old iron box 4 speed used to do exactly what you're describing though with the stock flywheel
(10-30-2016, 04:26 PM)NZScott Sorry don't have a Getrag box, my old iron box 4 speed used to do exactly what you're describing though with the stock flywheel
711.113, or G 1/18-5/4,7. Used in T1 vans/trucks. 711.117 is the G wagen version. 4.695 1st gear and 0.806 5th. Still using my 4 speed gearshift but had to bend the tab that presses the reverse switch so it wouldn't turn the reverse lights on in 1st gear, which is below reverse dogleg style.
1st and 2nd are unscynchronised, (meant to use 2nd as first most of the time) so it's not really ideal for a sedan but meh, got my overdrive
(10-30-2016, 10:52 PM)What did you end up doing with your clutch? Did you fit a 240mm? I\m in the same boat, my 215mm can't handle the input torque of the 7.5mm pump and hx30! I am considering modding the flywheel to accommodate the larger PP from the sachs 76 5NZScott 711.113, or G 1/18-5/4,7. Used in T1 vans/trucks. 711.117 is the G wagen version. 4.695 1st gear and 0.806 5th. Still using my 4 speed gearshift but had to bend the tab that presses the reverse switch so it wouldn't turn the reverse lights on in 1st gear, which is below reverse dogleg style.
1st and 2nd are unscynchronised, (meant to use 2nd as first most of the time) so it's not really ideal for a sedan but meh, got my overdrive
(10-30-2016, 10:52 PM)What did you end up doing with your clutch? Did you fit a 240mm? I\m in the same boat, my 215mm can't handle the input torque of the 7.5mm pump and hx30! I am considering modding the flywheel to accommodate the larger PP from the sachs 76 5NZScott 711.113, or G 1/18-5/4,7. Used in T1 vans/trucks. 711.117 is the G wagen version. 4.695 1st gear and 0.806 5th. Still using my 4 speed gearshift but had to bend the tab that presses the reverse switch so it wouldn't turn the reverse lights on in 1st gear, which is below reverse dogleg style.
1st and 2nd are unscynchronised, (meant to use 2nd as first most of the time) so it's not really ideal for a sedan but meh, got my overdrive
Lol well actually yesterday I called up a workshop that does machining of them and balancing (rather than separate like I did before) but it's a 450km drive to them so I am just waiting for a free time to go down for a trip. So sorry no progress on that front yet...
(01-11-2017, 12:15 AM)What clutch/FW did you go with? NZScott Lol well actually yesterday I called up a workshop that does machining of them and balancing (rather than separate like I did before) but it's a 450km drive to them so I am just waiting for a free time to go down for a trip. So sorry no progress on that front yet...
(01-11-2017, 12:15 AM)What clutch/FW did you go with? NZScott Lol well actually yesterday I called up a workshop that does machining of them and balancing (rather than separate like I did before) but it's a 450km drive to them so I am just waiting for a free time to go down for a trip. So sorry no progress on that front yet...
The 240D FW in the car now has a slightly smaller outer diameter so I can't use that. I do have 3 300D FWs though so I'm going to use my crappiest one to get machined down til it's flat to fit the PP. It's this http://www.specclutches.com/694999/ except I got it muuuch cheaper Clutch fits on the input shaft perfectly.
Bit of a non-update:
Time is getting a bit short now I'm full time studying aviation engineering.
Very little progress, mostly solved the temperature gauge issue by simply plugging the correct wire to the correct sender (old glow plug relay in my car which has the engine temp sensor, got mixed up....) also swapped thermostat housings while I was at it to rule out bad thermostat...
Decided instead of getting cert'ed now and then selling off my 'Toymota', I will do everything I have to 'now' ie, get the other flywheel machined for the BMW PP and swap it. Also have to do the turbo drain all over again properly as it leaks. Gotta make a small extra dashboard to house some switches and the boost+EMP gauge. Swap my ali radiator and install a heater bypass to it as well so the rear cylinders don't overheat (as much) when pushing the old girl.
Dunno if I can install the intercooler etc system yet, got enough to do as is really...
I have begun removal of the engine (with gearbox this time) to swap flywheel and clutch. Here is a video of it's last start for a while....who needs glow plugs when you can crank this fast?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0XTvpRAQAI
Sorted a way on how to get my new radiator installed...might get that done by the end of the week all going well.
Another thing on my plate is my parts car. Anyone want a M123 engine+ auto box?
Been making some progress lately but can't show yas - anyone else having issues uploading/attaching pics on here?
Anyway I have a custom flywheel made to fit the SPEC BMW 535i pressure plate and 6 puck sinter clutch. Just bolted it on the engine today after getting it all match balanced last week to the old flywheel.
Just now have to check the clutch fork position (stock was 44mm from the slave cylinder mounting surface FWIW) as the flywheel maker had to change things a bit to fit the PP. Tomorrow's job if the rain stays away...
(10-09-2017, 02:16 AM)NZScott Been making some progress lately but can't show yas - anyone else having issues uploading/attaching pics on here?
Anyway I have a custom flywheel made to fit the SPEC BMW 535i pressure plate and 6 puck sinter clutch. Just bolted it on the engine today after getting it all match balanced last week to the old flywheel.
Just now have to check the clutch fork position (stock was 44mm from the slave cylinder mounting surface FWIW) as the flywheel maker had to change things a bit to fit the PP. Tomorrow's job if the rain stays away...
(10-09-2017, 02:16 AM)NZScott Been making some progress lately but can't show yas - anyone else having issues uploading/attaching pics on here?
Anyway I have a custom flywheel made to fit the SPEC BMW 535i pressure plate and 6 puck sinter clutch. Just bolted it on the engine today after getting it all match balanced last week to the old flywheel.
Just now have to check the clutch fork position (stock was 44mm from the slave cylinder mounting surface FWIW) as the flywheel maker had to change things a bit to fit the PP. Tomorrow's job if the rain stays away...
PP and clutch setup - $140 US (not inc shipping)
Flywheel $650 NZ
Match balancing - $280 NZ
And clutch fork is now 57mm in so need to extend the slave cylinder rod 13mm or so.
Damn what a shame I can't upload pics here. Anywho a quick update:
Custom flywheel and clutch kit all on engine, gearbox on engine, both been waiting to go in the car for weeks.
Went for a 2000km roadtrip last week and conveniently just "happened" to come across a Mercedes parts yard which had a 500,000km '81 wagon still with its 617.952... owner said it was tired and could do with a rebuild (and it looks pretty sorry with corrosion and oil stains all over it). Pulled it out and he loaded it on a trailer for us. Just test ran it today, bloody thing has barely any smoke or blowby, very pleased with it!
I think there's only 6x 617As in this country and I now have two of them, lol
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_3hvbi4i4U
Test run of the engine I bought.
After this run I did a compression test (done in this order):
#5 400
#4 340
#3 320
#2 290
#1 220
Weird or what? Are the valves that out of whack? Like new>stuffed in the same engine...
Worked out that I can get pics in here by hosting from Flickr so here's a deluge of them to catch up
Before it all came apart again
The HX30W after being made to fit the intake mani...
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Pulling it all apart to get rust fixed up
Our she comes again (nearly a year ago!)
Couple gearbox pics
[url=https://flic.kr/p/23uDMQY]
The BMW 535i SPEC clutch kit
Custom flywheel to match it...
Turbo oil drain mod to AN-10
Universal all aluminium radiator trial install
Making the spacer for the clutch release bearing , since the BMW setup had to be moved further forward than the stock setup (this was actually the first attempt which was too thin - I made my 2nd and final one too thick as it was easier to adjust externally that way)
Was going to try weld it on(hence the fillets ground away), but bad idea, so ended up gluing it instead
Engine + gearbox are back in the car and bolted in. Have started the engine..still have shifter rods, clutch slave cylinder, radiator etc to hook up.
Update...
Had a wee prang on a motorbike/scooter thing I bought which put me on crutches for a while. Rain also didn't help with the car being on a poorly draining lawn with a 2" puddle under the car...
So...needed to install a new slave cylinder after I stuffed up my rod lengths for the piston>release fork, ended up blowing the piston almost out the end of the cylinder...
Got the cylinder in yesterday, tried bleeding it today by using a big syringe I use for lawnmower oil changes but no luck, I can suck the fluid out the bottom forever and a day, but whenever I stop getting bubbles the pedal is never "primed" as if its not even attached to anything. Going to try pressure bleed it tomorrow with an old garden sprayer. I filled the reservoir up all the way so might flush the brakes out while I'm there.
i forget to ask when you posted it up a while ago. how did you get the custom flywheel? been looking into a gs6 but the two kickers are the clutch and flywheel
(07-07-2018, 08:19 AM)R-3350 i forget to ask when you posted it up a while ago. how did you get the custom flywheel? been looking into a gs6 but the two kickers are the clutch and flywheel
(07-07-2018, 08:19 AM)R-3350 i forget to ask when you posted it up a while ago. how did you get the custom flywheel? been looking into a gs6 but the two kickers are the clutch and flywheel
Well I'm a happy chappy. Was just about to get bleeding again but I tried the pedal just before I did and it was hard to push like it should. Charged the caps up and started the engine and low and behold the thing drives back n forth.
I can now start putting the pulleys and radiator etc in.