Daily W202 C250 TD Turbo Upgrade with 6mm EDC Pump.

STD Other Projects Daily W202 C250 TD Turbo Upgrade with 6mm EDC Pump.

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charlysays

GTA2056V

96

08-26-2016, 08:10 AM #1

[Image: 12711253_10153948294828044_1493204475981956192_o.jpg]

The first thing I did was to buy two socketed/ de-immo ECUs off seanyt on this forum, along with two generic maps and one much more aggressive map to allow up to maximum the stock pump will allow. I wanted to have a bit of fun before any hard work, and the extra torque and 25-30bhp is really nice.

[Image: 12805855_10154103854158044_3468474068396389893_n.jpg]

Here you can see both ECUs, with sockets for the chips and immobiliser emulator boards which allow the ECUs to be used in any C250 TD of the same type (pre facelift and facelift cars have a different immobiliser arrangement).
These ECUs work perfectly- no hitches at all and each one (until brexit wrecked the Euro/ sterline exchange rate) cost much less than a "superchip".

I tried the aggressive map with the stock turbo, and whilst the vacuum actuator struggled to control the boost spikes the car went like a rocket, however the EGTs would have been huge in the tiny turbo so I have managed to refrain from slotting this map into the ECU and tearing around until I fit the larger turbo.

Here's a quick video I took of my 241k mile daily running 100% WVO with the generic remap:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWDvQDXQIrU

It is admittedly noticeably quicker on diesel so I'm considering adding some 2EHN to the WVO to increase the cetane rating. At 20p a litre though there's no way I'll run on diesel again.

charlysays

08-26-2016, 08:10 AM #1

After running one of these without issue on 100% WVO for 5 years/ 90,000 miles I decided in March to tune my other one which I picked up along the way- have some high performance chip fat fun. I was well aware of the tuning potential for these 5 years ago but the only options seemed to involve a lot of expense and upheaval- mechanical pump and manual transmission.
All the remaps seemed to be generic, quite expensive and soldered onto the ECU board.

Here's my 241k mile daily:

The first thing I did was to buy two socketed/ de-immo ECUs off seanyt on this forum, along with two generic maps and one much more aggressive map to allow up to maximum the stock pump will allow. I wanted to have a bit of fun before any hard work, and the extra torque and 25-30bhp is really nice.

Here you can see both ECUs, with sockets for the chips and immobiliser emulator boards which allow the ECUs to be used in any C250 TD of the same type (pre facelift and facelift cars have a different immobiliser arrangement).
These ECUs work perfectly- no hitches at all and each one (until brexit wrecked the Euro/ sterline exchange rate) cost much less than a "superchip".

I tried the aggressive map with the stock turbo, and whilst the vacuum actuator struggled to control the boost spikes the car went like a rocket, however the EGTs would have been huge in the tiny turbo so I have managed to refrain from slotting this map into the ECU and tearing around until I fit the larger turbo.

Here's a quick video I took of my 241k mile daily running 100% WVO with the generic remap:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWDvQDXQIrU

It is admittedly noticeably quicker on diesel so I'm considering adding some 2EHN to the WVO to increase the cetane rating. At 20p a litre though there's no way I'll run on diesel again.

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

08-26-2016, 08:14 AM #2

So here's the project car which will be getting a turbo upgrade. I picked it up for £300 a couple of years ago due to some damage to the rear quarter which I repaired.
It has full history up to 100k miles and some sporadic history to the current mileage of 118k miles. It drives like a new car compared to my daily.

[Image: 13029591_10154141983828044_6836684367427904955_o.jpg]

[Image: 13072897_10154141982788044_1080524390953078519_o.jpg]

charlysays

08-26-2016, 08:14 AM #2

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

08-26-2016, 08:27 AM #3

[Image: 12916329_10154103825313044_8811386552758220568_o.jpg]

I was impressed with the apparent quality of this turbo. Even my mate who used to be a machinist at crossleys in Stockport was impressed. Not feeling overly confident I sent it off to Turbocharger Services in Huddersfield. They fitted branded bearings and seals (these turbos are an exact copy and so the rebuild kits fit!), tested it and checked the balancing. They were fairly impressed too and said it would've been OK out of the box with the balancing it already had and that the bearings and seals were fine.

The exhaust housing did need some porting- the wastegate hole was far too small so it was opened out with a die grinder with the housing having been removed.
The entry to the exhaust housing by the T2 flange also needed material removing to match with the laser cut flange.

[Image: 12916064_10154103831598044_4619831798734735583_o.jpg]

[Image: 13047770_10154141974748044_2054926648701077633_o.jpg]

The next thing was to do some mock ups in the engine bay of my 1997 C250 TD saloon donor car which had conveniently already had the turbo and manifold removed as my daily had worn out its bearings a few months before (230k miles on one turbo isn't bad going and it was still boosting- just loosing a bit too much oil into the exhaust!)

Seeing as this car was never going to go on the road again I decided to weld a support off the inner wing to securely hold the turbo in the desired position to make it much easier to make the manifold adapter.

This post was last modified: 08-26-2016, 08:46 AM by charlysays.

charlysays

08-26-2016, 08:27 AM #3

After much reading on this forum and others I started looking for a turbo. I looked at Holset HX30, KKK K14 and Garrett GT2860 and the associated fitting considerations.
After struggling to find anything in the used market and narrowly avoiding a sketchy used Garrett GT2871 Ball Bearing turbo I decided to try a chinese copy turbo as they seem to have got better in recent years.

I bought a Maxpeedingrods GT2871 for £120 inc postage off a UK distributer. Here it is next to the stock garrett GT20.

I was impressed with the apparent quality of this turbo. Even my mate who used to be a machinist at crossleys in Stockport was impressed. Not feeling overly confident I sent it off to Turbocharger Services in Huddersfield. They fitted branded bearings and seals (these turbos are an exact copy and so the rebuild kits fit!), tested it and checked the balancing. They were fairly impressed too and said it would've been OK out of the box with the balancing it already had and that the bearings and seals were fine.

The exhaust housing did need some porting- the wastegate hole was far too small so it was opened out with a die grinder with the housing having been removed.
The entry to the exhaust housing by the T2 flange also needed material removing to match with the laser cut flange.

The next thing was to do some mock ups in the engine bay of my 1997 C250 TD saloon donor car which had conveniently already had the turbo and manifold removed as my daily had worn out its bearings a few months before (230k miles on one turbo isn't bad going and it was still boosting- just loosing a bit too much oil into the exhaust!)

Seeing as this car was never going to go on the road again I decided to weld a support off the inner wing to securely hold the turbo in the desired position to make it much easier to make the manifold adapter.

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

08-26-2016, 08:39 AM #4

The other bits I needed for the adapter were some bits of 3mm plate to funnel the pipe into the rectangular T2 flange. I bought the two long radius CHS bends from parker steel and got some straight pipe too.

I ground a bevel where there would be joins to fill with weld but for the sake of ease of assembley didn't leave a gap too which apparently you should for maximum strength.

I then had my mate TIG weld it.

This post was last modified: 08-26-2016, 08:42 AM by charlysays.

charlysays

08-26-2016, 08:39 AM #4

I got a local machine shop to make me the triangular flange in 10mm plate and machine a recess so that the 48.3 X 3.2 mild steel CHS would slot into the flange an ensure perfect alignment. The T2 flange was bought laser cut off ebay in 12mm plate.

The other bits I needed for the adapter were some bits of 3mm plate to funnel the pipe into the rectangular T2 flange. I bought the two long radius CHS bends from parker steel and got some straight pipe too.

I ground a bevel where there would be joins to fill with weld but for the sake of ease of assembley didn't leave a gap too which apparently you should for maximum strength.

I then had my mate TIG weld it.

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

08-26-2016, 08:48 AM #5

Unfortunately I dislocated my right thumb about 2 weeks after starting this project in April, so there has been a big gap! Today I rerouted the intercooler pipes to make the EGR housing redundant.

charlysays

08-26-2016, 08:48 AM #5

Unfortunately I dislocated my right thumb about 2 weeks after starting this project in April, so there has been a big gap! Today I rerouted the intercooler pipes to make the EGR housing redundant.

starynovy

Holset

338

08-26-2016, 02:10 PM #6

If I was not blind stock turbo is GT25C, so yes GT28 is bigger but not by a lot. For stock pump it is nice fit of course, will do that smoky 230PS for sure. Smile

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW

starynovy

08-26-2016, 02:10 PM #6

If I was not blind stock turbo is GT25C, so yes GT28 is bigger but not by a lot. For stock pump it is nice fit of course, will do that smoky 230PS for sure. Smile

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

08-26-2016, 03:43 PM #7

Maybe the gt25c was stock fitment in Europe but I can assure you that the metal tags on the turbos of all three of my c250s say GT20.
I do know that the GT2871 is 5-10mm larger in both compressor and turbine than the KKK K14, which allows 220hp from the OM606 so as you say it should be a good option for the 6mm pump ☺
I know 260hp can be had from the stock pump but I know that the stock transmission and intercooler might have trouble with pushing it that hard. 230 and I'll be happy!

This post was last modified: 08-26-2016, 03:43 PM by charlysays.

charlysays

08-26-2016, 03:43 PM #7

starynovy

Holset

338

08-27-2016, 01:22 PM #8

Stock IC is not good even for stock power. Trans will hold it ok.

starynovy

08-27-2016, 01:22 PM #8

Stock IC is not good even for stock power. Trans will hold it ok.

seanyt

is300d He351ve

279

08-27-2016, 03:05 PM #9

Good work charlie, making headway now.

seanyt

08-27-2016, 03:05 PM #9

Good work charlie, making headway now.

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

08-28-2016, 04:59 AM #10

(08-27-2016, 01:22 PM)starynovy Stock IC is not good even for stock power. Trans will hold it ok.

I'll look at fitting one of those EVO intercoolers like Hario did, seems like a decent cheap upgrade which will fit behind the bumper without too much hassle. At the moment I just need to get the car on the road with the upgraded turbo!
I'll flush the stock intercooler with some kerosene to get rid of the oily mess from the PCV system which will help.
I've seen these early 722.6 transmissions chew their planetry bushes and also the K2 (I think) bearing with stock power (but mostly likely due to that 'sealed for life' rubbish), so I don't want to push it too hard seeing as it's going to be a daily.
I've got a 20litre tub of Fuches Titan MB 236.14 ATF which I'll be doing a change with ASAP.

charlysays

08-28-2016, 04:59 AM #10

(08-27-2016, 01:22 PM)starynovy Stock IC is not good even for stock power. Trans will hold it ok.

addi.bigg

OM605; 7,5mm elements

94

09-05-2016, 11:04 AM #11

(08-26-2016, 08:48 AM)charlysays Unfortunately I dislocated my right thumb about 2 weeks after starting this project in April, so there has been a big gap! Today I rerouted the intercooler pipes to make the EGR housing redundant.

I'm planning to do something like the you but more racionalized, by modifying the plastic intake too. The connection to the hoses will go down above the engine mount around 45deg towards, so need only two turns in the intake system.
I think your has too much volume and resistance because of the corners.

addi.bigg

09-05-2016, 11:04 AM #11

(08-26-2016, 08:48 AM)charlysays Unfortunately I dislocated my right thumb about 2 weeks after starting this project in April, so there has been a big gap! Today I rerouted the intercooler pipes to make the EGR housing redundant.

addi.bigg

OM605; 7,5mm elements

94

09-06-2016, 12:20 AM #12

[attachment=8858 addi.bigg pid='82771' dateline='1473091442']I'm planning to do something like the you but more racionalized, by modifying the plastic intake too. The connection to the hoses will go down above the engine mount around 45deg towards, so need only two turns in the intake system.
I think your has too much volume and resistance because of the corners.

Something like this. Sorry for the bad photo quality.

addi.bigg

09-06-2016, 12:20 AM #12

[attachment=8858 addi.bigg pid='82771' dateline='1473091442']I'm planning to do something like the you but more racionalized, by modifying the plastic intake too. The connection to the hoses will go down above the engine mount around 45deg towards, so need only two turns in the intake system.
I think your has too much volume and resistance because of the corners.

Something like this. Sorry for the bad photo quality.

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

09-13-2016, 05:19 PM #13

(09-05-2016, 11:04 AM)addi.bigg
(08-26-2016, 08:48 AM)charlysays Unfortunately I dislocated my right thumb about 2 weeks after starting this project in April, so there has been a big gap! Today I rerouted the intercooler pipes to make the EGR housing redundant.

I'm planning to do something like the you but more racionalized, by modifying the plastic intake too. The connection to the hoses will go down above the engine mount around 45deg towards, so need only two turns in the intake system.
I think your has too much volume and resistance because of the corners.

It'd be nice to get rid of that 180 degree bend near the top for sure, though they are long radius and quite smooth flowing... I never thought about modifying the manifold as it's thermoplastic, which isn't straightforward to modify and retain strength/ durability. What process did you use for moving the hose barb on the inlet manifold? I might use my spare one and do this at some stage.

In terms of volume I'd say it's less than the stock pipe work as it's a much shorter pipe run now and has less 90 degree bends than the stock pipework too.

This post was last modified: 09-13-2016, 05:20 PM by charlysays.

charlysays

09-13-2016, 05:19 PM #13

(09-05-2016, 11:04 AM)addi.bigg
(08-26-2016, 08:48 AM)charlysays Unfortunately I dislocated my right thumb about 2 weeks after starting this project in April, so there has been a big gap! Today I rerouted the intercooler pipes to make the EGR housing redundant.

I'm planning to do something like the you but more racionalized, by modifying the plastic intake too. The connection to the hoses will go down above the engine mount around 45deg towards, so need only two turns in the intake system.
I think your has too much volume and resistance because of the corners.

addi.bigg

OM605; 7,5mm elements

94

09-14-2016, 10:43 AM #14

I will show you in pictures when I will get that back. Hopefully tomorrow.

addi.bigg

09-14-2016, 10:43 AM #14

I will show you in pictures when I will get that back. Hopefully tomorrow.

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

09-15-2016, 06:23 AM #15

Re-fitted the manifold and adapter, now with two stays going back onto the manifold and the block as well as a brace between the two flanges. Used a smear of exhaust paste on the 3 bolt flange.

Spent a happy hour getting this abominable 5 bolt to 3" V band adapter to fit. Had to drill all the holes out to 9mm and it needed a lot of porting as there was a pointless big ledge right in front of the turbine. Even after all that I was barely able to get the nuts to spin- one in particular needs the casting ground to within 3mm of breaking through to get a nut on the stud.

charlysays

09-15-2016, 06:23 AM #15

Fitted an EGT sensor in the EGR port. Not the best place but CBA to do it in the manifold adapter.. I used the EGR pipe and cut the end off, welded it closed with some 20 gauge plate, drilled a hole in that and then welded the EGT sensor boss in.

Re-fitted the manifold and adapter, now with two stays going back onto the manifold and the block as well as a brace between the two flanges. Used a smear of exhaust paste on the 3 bolt flange.

Spent a happy hour getting this abominable 5 bolt to 3" V band adapter to fit. Had to drill all the holes out to 9mm and it needed a lot of porting as there was a pointless big ledge right in front of the turbine. Even after all that I was barely able to get the nuts to spin- one in particular needs the casting ground to within 3mm of breaking through to get a nut on the stud.

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

09-15-2016, 06:27 AM #16

I've got a busy couple of days now but I should be able to crack on at the weekend.

Only significant jobs left to do are to hook up the hot side of the intercooler (got a suspicion I'll be able to link back in with most of the stock pipework or use what's left of my 63mm boost pipe kit) and hack the exhaust downpipe which will probably take the longest.
I'll be reducing back to 2.5" immediately after the turbo as it gets tight between the engine and the bulkhead and for my power aims (6mm pump) I doubt it'll make any difference.

I've ordered fittings to hook up the water cooling for the turbo and also a "Mumby Developments" mechanical boost control valve.

Need to get some P clips from somewhere to brace my hydraulic hose oil pipes.

This post was last modified: 09-15-2016, 06:36 AM by charlysays.

charlysays

09-15-2016, 06:27 AM #16

And it's fitted! For good hopefully. Had to do a last minute cut and shut on the actuator bracket as it just wasn't running straight.
The back bolt on the T2 flange nearest the engine is a bit of a nightmare to get to, but nowhere near as bad as the bolts for the stock turbo!

I've got a busy couple of days now but I should be able to crack on at the weekend.

Only significant jobs left to do are to hook up the hot side of the intercooler (got a suspicion I'll be able to link back in with most of the stock pipework or use what's left of my 63mm boost pipe kit) and hack the exhaust downpipe which will probably take the longest.
I'll be reducing back to 2.5" immediately after the turbo as it gets tight between the engine and the bulkhead and for my power aims (6mm pump) I doubt it'll make any difference.

I've ordered fittings to hook up the water cooling for the turbo and also a "Mumby Developments" mechanical boost control valve.

Need to get some P clips from somewhere to brace my hydraulic hose oil pipes.

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

09-18-2016, 05:28 PM #17

Sorted the exhaust downpipe today. Bought a 3" V band kit off ebay from China in mild steel, a 3" to 2.5" reducer and already had a 45 degree mandrel bend. This needed a cut and shut where the exhaust passes the rearmost manifold runner to kink it away , and another near the V band flange to increase the angle a bit more. Tacking the join near the felxi joint was interesting... horrendous access!

Sprayed it with some silver exhaust paint to slow down the rust.

This post was last modified: 09-18-2016, 05:29 PM by charlysays.

charlysays

09-18-2016, 05:28 PM #17

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

09-18-2016, 05:37 PM #18

Also sorted the hot side of the intercooler and intake which was easier than I expected- was able to reuse all the stock pipework off this car and my donor car apart from the bit nearest the turbo. I cut this down to form a joiner. Its all gone together pretty well, need a few jubilee clips only.

charlysays

09-18-2016, 05:37 PM #18

pryantcc

TA 0301

63

09-19-2016, 08:14 AM #19

Great work, keep the updates coming! Smile

1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.

pryantcc

09-19-2016, 08:14 AM #19

Great work, keep the updates coming! Smile

1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.

Repetitio

GT2256V

137

09-19-2016, 12:08 PM #20

nice work!

Repetitio

09-19-2016, 12:08 PM #20

nice work!

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

09-21-2016, 01:37 PM #21

(09-19-2016, 12:08 PM)Repetitio nice work!

Cheers man, never done something so involved in terms of modification. Previously just been a weekend DIY mechanic, though I have the advantage of a 2 post lift which has made a lot of stuff so much easier!

charlysays

09-21-2016, 01:37 PM #21

(09-19-2016, 12:08 PM)Repetitio nice work!

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

09-21-2016, 01:52 PM #22

And where it goes into the block...

Oil feed where it comes out of the block. Improvised this support bracket as the hydraulic shop thought it best to use the stub of the old feed pipe and then go to hydraulic hose via a compression fitting. This all got kinda bulky and I just knew the pipe would fracture one day, so this bracket braces it onto the engine mount casting and should make it reliable.
Excuse the chicken s*** welding- I did it in situ!

Routing of feed hose up the side of the steering box heat shield- gives distance between both the manifold and exhaust. Had to drill the heat shield and weld a nut onto it to attach the P clip. The loop at the bottom is intentional so there's plenty of give when the engine moves on its mounts. Probably overkill.

Oil feed where it goes into the turbo. As you can see the hose just has a normal M12 banjo on it which caused the hose to touch the wastegate actuator rod. A P clip has given this clearance.

You can just see here the oil feed going behind the edge of the heat shield, then I cut an opening in the heat shield for the hose to track down the side of the steering box.

Not been able to find anyone to swage my intercooler pipes so Ive ordered a 65mm exhaust clamp, a cheap pair of locking pliers and will make a DIY pipe swager and spend a happy evening doing this next week. Not run the engine yet as the cooling system is drained and duo valves removed so I can change the master cylinder which randomly s*** itself a couple of months ago! I fully intend to have this car on the road within 2 weeks though.

This post was last modified: 09-21-2016, 01:55 PM by charlysays.

charlysays

09-21-2016, 01:52 PM #22

Sorted the oil lines yesterday. Gave up trying to use hydraulic hose for the return as it was just too stiff to route. Used an oil rated 3/4" hose in the end.
Also had to grind away at two flats on the fitting the hydraulic shop supplied me as it was fouling the allen bolts.
The oil feed wasn't straight forward either and is less than ideal but will do for now after a couple of P clips to guide it.

The feed hose is Hypress Longlife 6000psi hose. At what point do I need to heat wrap this stuff in terms of distance from the manifold and exhaust? I've routed it to go a bit nearer the exhaust (around 2 inches) in preferance to getting near the manifold or adapter.

Oil drain where it comes out of the turbo.

And where it goes into the block...

Oil feed where it comes out of the block. Improvised this support bracket as the hydraulic shop thought it best to use the stub of the old feed pipe and then go to hydraulic hose via a compression fitting. This all got kinda bulky and I just knew the pipe would fracture one day, so this bracket braces it onto the engine mount casting and should make it reliable.
Excuse the chicken s*** welding- I did it in situ!

Routing of feed hose up the side of the steering box heat shield- gives distance between both the manifold and exhaust. Had to drill the heat shield and weld a nut onto it to attach the P clip. The loop at the bottom is intentional so there's plenty of give when the engine moves on its mounts. Probably overkill.

Oil feed where it goes into the turbo. As you can see the hose just has a normal M12 banjo on it which caused the hose to touch the wastegate actuator rod. A P clip has given this clearance.

You can just see here the oil feed going behind the edge of the heat shield, then I cut an opening in the heat shield for the hose to track down the side of the steering box.

Not been able to find anyone to swage my intercooler pipes so Ive ordered a 65mm exhaust clamp, a cheap pair of locking pliers and will make a DIY pipe swager and spend a happy evening doing this next week. Not run the engine yet as the cooling system is drained and duo valves removed so I can change the master cylinder which randomly s*** itself a couple of months ago! I fully intend to have this car on the road within 2 weeks though.

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

10-02-2016, 03:34 PM #23

Got myself some 18" AMG monoblocks. Also booked an MOT for this Friday and insured it (£430 3rd party fire & theft with all mods declared).

Swaged all the intercooler pipes with this homemade tool- did a good job but my hand was tired after the 10th pipe end!!

Also hooked up the water cooling.
To do this I cut the pipe which comes out of the heater pump (mounted to the chassis leg), fitted an 18-10mm reducer then ran 10mm I.D silicone pipe to and from the turbo CHRA. The fittings were M14 X 1.5. Got a brass hose tail off ebay as well as a banjo/bolt/copper washers for the turbo fittings. Then another black plastic 18-10 reducer to go to the Duo valve.

The side effects of this are a luke warm heater which I can live with. It'll make the CHRA last a lot longer.

Also fitted this mumby developments mechanical boost controller/ limiter. Seems to work well.

I have driven it 4 times now up the village (booked it in at my mates MOT repair place in case the police catch me).
It is far,, far quicker than the stage 1 remap and so far I've been running about 1.2 to 1.3 bar boost.
Autobox seems to work nicely with it too.
Lag is a little worse than the stock setup but no deal breaker. Seems to make good boost from 2.5k.

My EGT gauge seems to be broken right out of the box (when I plug it in even with no sensor input the dial goes straight up to 800 with the engine off lol) so once I have an MOT and an EGT gauge working I shall run the boost up to 1.5 bar and then do a youtube video of the acceleration Smile

charlysays

10-02-2016, 03:34 PM #23

Got myself some 18" AMG monoblocks. Also booked an MOT for this Friday and insured it (£430 3rd party fire & theft with all mods declared).

Swaged all the intercooler pipes with this homemade tool- did a good job but my hand was tired after the 10th pipe end!!

Also hooked up the water cooling.
To do this I cut the pipe which comes out of the heater pump (mounted to the chassis leg), fitted an 18-10mm reducer then ran 10mm I.D silicone pipe to and from the turbo CHRA. The fittings were M14 X 1.5. Got a brass hose tail off ebay as well as a banjo/bolt/copper washers for the turbo fittings. Then another black plastic 18-10 reducer to go to the Duo valve.

The side effects of this are a luke warm heater which I can live with. It'll make the CHRA last a lot longer.

Also fitted this mumby developments mechanical boost controller/ limiter. Seems to work well.

I have driven it 4 times now up the village (booked it in at my mates MOT repair place in case the police catch me).
It is far,, far quicker than the stage 1 remap and so far I've been running about 1.2 to 1.3 bar boost.
Autobox seems to work nicely with it too.
Lag is a little worse than the stock setup but no deal breaker. Seems to make good boost from 2.5k.

My EGT gauge seems to be broken right out of the box (when I plug it in even with no sensor input the dial goes straight up to 800 with the engine off lol) so once I have an MOT and an EGT gauge working I shall run the boost up to 1.5 bar and then do a youtube video of the acceleration Smile

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

10-02-2016, 03:43 PM #24

By the way, the new master cylinder in the pic turned into a nightmare job. After fitting it, I could hear a hissing which I'd previously thought was a leak from my manifold adapter (I actually lost sleep over that). Turns out the servo had cracked near one of the studs for the master cylinder!!
So I had to tear it all out again, drain down the system (which is not that fun to bleed, loves holding onto air even with 2 bar pressure from the bleeder kit). So I fitted a used servo with the same part number from a 1998 C250 TD....
Lo and behold but the brake lights were stuck on.
On investigation it seems this replacement servo has a rod which is shorter by 3-4mm preventing the brake pedal from switching off the brake lights when it comes back to rest.
After asking people on the mercedes forum to look up on EPC, they reckon the original servo had the wrong part number on it. Whats worse is that the pictures on EPC are also wrong!! So basically no way of finding the truly correct servo without getting parts and physically measuring them.

Long story... but I used some building adhesive to stick a shim onto the tab on the brake pedal with engages the brake light switch so it all works now haha.
The master cylinder end appears to be right as the brakes dont bind and there's no freeplay- brakes are better than my daily now.
Pain in the arse though.
As you can see getting the servo out is a nightmare requiring partial removal of the wiring loom, fuse box and that heat shield at the top back of the engine bay to gain precious milimetres so you can withdraw the servo upwards and at an angle... which is a balancing act between scraping f*** out of the wiring loom, bodywork and the plastic piston of the servo.

This post was last modified: 10-02-2016, 03:45 PM by charlysays.

charlysays

10-02-2016, 03:43 PM #24

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

10-04-2016, 01:51 PM #25

Cool, are you going to remove the suitcase sized silencer/DPF in the mid-section of the exhaust?

Also with your CHRA watercooling, if you turn the heater off will stationary the water not boil in the CHRA when running?

Beers, H.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

10-04-2016, 01:51 PM #25

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

10-05-2016, 01:57 PM #26

(08-26-2016, 02:10 PM)starynovy If I was not blind stock turbo is GT25C, so yes GT28 is bigger but not by a lot. For stock pump it is nice fit of course, will do that smoky 230PS for sure.

(10-04-2016, 01:51 PM)Hario Cool, are you going to remove the suitcase sized silencer/DPF in the mid-section of the exhaust?

Also with your CHRA watercooling, if you turn the heater off will stationary the water not boil in the CHRA when running?

Beers, H.

Yep, that went a long time ago!
Wish I'd put a can of some sort as it means I'm kinda stuck with one mot tester. Will slice something and weld it either side.

Good question regards the heater hose... I thought it flowed all the time and the pump is just to boost it at low revs but if not then that could be a problem. Does the water not move unless the heater is switched on?!

charlysays

10-05-2016, 01:57 PM #26

(08-26-2016, 02:10 PM)starynovy If I was not blind stock turbo is GT25C, so yes GT28 is bigger but not by a lot. For stock pump it is nice fit of course, will do that smoky 230PS for sure.

(10-04-2016, 01:51 PM)Hario Cool, are you going to remove the suitcase sized silencer/DPF in the mid-section of the exhaust?

Also with your CHRA watercooling, if you turn the heater off will stationary the water not boil in the CHRA when running?

Beers, H.

addi.bigg

OM605; 7,5mm elements

94

10-07-2016, 09:11 AM #27

This is the sketch of my modification of the intake lines and the intake manifold. The upper connetcion pipe is blocked and made one to the bottom approx 45deg direction towards.

addi.bigg

10-07-2016, 09:11 AM #27

This is the sketch of my modification of the intake lines and the intake manifold. The upper connetcion pipe is blocked and made one to the bottom approx 45deg direction towards.

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

10-07-2016, 02:10 PM #28

Here's a first test on the road, car passed mot fine this morning. Running about 1.3 bar of boost.

https://youtu.be/BhEjhVRUn3E

charlysays

10-07-2016, 02:10 PM #28

Here's a first test on the road, car passed mot fine this morning. Running about 1.3 bar of boost.

https://youtu.be/BhEjhVRUn3E

starynovy

Holset

338

10-07-2016, 03:10 PM #29

Will take some fine tuning.. mine 250TD with stock everything, just remaped goes the same or better.

starynovy

10-07-2016, 03:10 PM #29

Will take some fine tuning.. mine 250TD with stock everything, just remaped goes the same or better.

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

10-07-2016, 03:47 PM #30

(10-07-2016, 03:10 PM)starynovy Will take some fine tuning.. mine 250TD with stock everything, just remaped goes the same or better.

Is that some kind of super stage 1.5 map?!

There was an IAT fault on star last time I checked it which may or may not affect the on boost fuelling.
So I need to swap this out with a known good one to see what happens.

charlysays

10-07-2016, 03:47 PM #30

(10-07-2016, 03:10 PM)starynovy Will take some fine tuning.. mine 250TD with stock everything, just remaped goes the same or better.

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

10-07-2016, 06:19 PM #31

addi.bigg thank you. Looks a good mod and way of removing more pipe volume. What material did you use for the new barb and how did you fix it into the plastic manifold?

charlysays

10-07-2016, 06:19 PM #31

addi.bigg thank you. Looks a good mod and way of removing more pipe volume. What material did you use for the new barb and how did you fix it into the plastic manifold?

starynovy

Holset

338

10-08-2016, 04:25 AM #32

I just went with it again, you have some 6s 80-120. I have the same time but changed gear twice during that same run so it would be even faster. Something is wrong.

starynovy

10-08-2016, 04:25 AM #32

I just went with it again, you have some 6s 80-120. I have the same time but changed gear twice during that same run so it would be even faster. Something is wrong.

addi.bigg

OM605; 7,5mm elements

94

10-08-2016, 10:01 AM #33

(10-07-2016, 06:19 PM)charlysays addi.bigg thank you. Looks a good mod and way of removing more pipe volume. What material did you use for the new barb and how did you fix it into the plastic manifold?

From the turbo the "S" pipe is the same. After thet it goes into a 60mm inner diam. 90deg turn which is fiexd on the intercooler. There's a 60mm stainles steel pipe between the two. Out from the intecooler also a 90deg turn, which goes into a 67deg turn that goes towards the intake manifold. I plan to change the stainless steel pipes to aluminium ones, because I will have to press/bend the on that goes to the intake manifold, because it contacts the stablizing mechanism fixing plate. Otherwise it is really good. : Smile

will take some photos of it later...

addi.bigg

10-08-2016, 10:01 AM #33

(10-07-2016, 06:19 PM)charlysays addi.bigg thank you. Looks a good mod and way of removing more pipe volume. What material did you use for the new barb and how did you fix it into the plastic manifold?

will take some photos of it later...

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

10-08-2016, 11:28 AM #34

(10-08-2016, 04:25 AM)starynovy I just went with it again, you have some 6s 80-120. I have the same time but changed gear twice during that same run so it would be even faster. Something is wrong.

Nice

Your car is quick! But what could be wrong?
I had it back in the garage today and fitted a new water pump and visous fan. Did a more comprehensive pressure test with 1.6 bar pressure of the intercooler and pipes with my air compressor (no leaks at all). Swapped the IAT too. I also got the EGT gauge working.

With a shade under 1.5 bar boost up a hill flat out in 3rd doing 80mph it maxed out at 680 degrees C.
To get 1.5 bar the actuator is adjusted up to about 70% and the dawes device is screwed all the way in.
It is a low boost actuator however.

It could use more on boost fuel as there's zero smoke when it's boosting. It smokes a bit just before it boosts hard.

It's definitely a lot quicker than my daily which had a 175hp remap.

charlysays

10-08-2016, 11:28 AM #34

(10-08-2016, 04:25 AM)starynovy I just went with it again, you have some 6s 80-120. I have the same time but changed gear twice during that same run so it would be even faster. Something is wrong.

Nice

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

10-08-2016, 12:06 PM #35

(10-08-2016, 10:01 AM)addi.bigg
(10-07-2016, 06:19 PM)charlysays addi.bigg thank you. Looks a good mod and way of removing more pipe volume. What material did you use for the new barb and how did you fix it into the plastic manifold?
From the turbo the "S" pipe is the same. After thet it goes into a 60mm inner diam. 90deg turn which is fiexd on the intercooler. There's a 60mm stainles steel pipe between the two. Out from the intecooler also a 90deg turn, which goes into a 67deg turn that goes towards the intake manifold. I plan to change the stainless steel pipes to aluminium ones, because I will have to press/bend the on that goes to the intake manifold, because it contacts the stablizing mechanism fixing plate. Otherwise it is really good. : will take some photos of it later...

Thank you

But how did you create the new inlet to the inlet manifold plenum chamber?
It looks like it is made of thermoplastic. I assume you cut a hole in it, slotted in some kind of plastic pipe and used an adhesive or plastic welding to securely attach it to the manifold?
What exactly did you use?
Cheers

charlysays

10-08-2016, 12:06 PM #35

(10-08-2016, 10:01 AM)addi.bigg
(10-07-2016, 06:19 PM)charlysays addi.bigg thank you. Looks a good mod and way of removing more pipe volume. What material did you use for the new barb and how did you fix it into the plastic manifold?
From the turbo the "S" pipe is the same. After thet it goes into a 60mm inner diam. 90deg turn which is fiexd on the intercooler. There's a 60mm stainles steel pipe between the two. Out from the intecooler also a 90deg turn, which goes into a 67deg turn that goes towards the intake manifold. I plan to change the stainless steel pipes to aluminium ones, because I will have to press/bend the on that goes to the intake manifold, because it contacts the stablizing mechanism fixing plate. Otherwise it is really good. : will take some photos of it later...

Thank you

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

10-09-2016, 02:18 PM #36

(10-05-2016, 01:57 PM)charlysays
(08-26-2016, 02:10 PM)starynovy If I was not blind stock turbo is GT25C, so yes GT28 is bigger but not by a lot. For stock pump it is nice fit of course, will do that smoky 230PS for sure.

(10-04-2016, 01:51 PM)Hario Cool, are you going to remove the suitcase sized silencer/DPF in the mid-section of the exhaust?

Also with your CHRA watercooling, if you turn the heater off will stationary the water not boil in the CHRA when running?

Beers, H.

Yep, that went a long time ago!
Wish I'd put a can of some sort as it means I'm kinda stuck with one mot tester. Will slice something and weld it either side.

Good question regards the heater hose... I thought it flowed all the time and the pump is just to boost it at low revs but if not then that could be a problem. Does the water not move unless the heater is switched on?!

No the water doesn't flow without the heater switched on. The circulation pump and the flow control valves which are by the brake servo on RHD models control water though the heater core.

I think it might boil in the CHRA and over pressurise your coolant system?

H

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

10-09-2016, 02:18 PM #36

(10-05-2016, 01:57 PM)charlysays
(08-26-2016, 02:10 PM)starynovy If I was not blind stock turbo is GT25C, so yes GT28 is bigger but not by a lot. For stock pump it is nice fit of course, will do that smoky 230PS for sure.

(10-04-2016, 01:51 PM)Hario Cool, are you going to remove the suitcase sized silencer/DPF in the mid-section of the exhaust?

Also with your CHRA watercooling, if you turn the heater off will stationary the water not boil in the CHRA when running?

Beers, H.

Yep, that went a long time ago!
Wish I'd put a can of some sort as it means I'm kinda stuck with one mot tester. Will slice something and weld it either side.

Good question regards the heater hose... I thought it flowed all the time and the pump is just to boost it at low revs but if not then that could be a problem. Does the water not move unless the heater is switched on?!

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

10-09-2016, 04:47 PM #37

I've already taken the water Cooling off and put the cooling system back to stock, thanks for the heads up on that.
From what I read coolant with 15 pounds of pressure wouldn't boil before 250 degree's but it wouldn't be cooling the CHRA much.
I've found a better hose for the job at the back on the passenger side which comes out of the block but water Cooling a journal bearing turbo on a diesel is not essential at all, so I'm leaving it for now!

charlysays

10-09-2016, 04:47 PM #37

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

10-10-2016, 03:49 PM #38

(10-08-2016, 04:25 AM)starynovy I just went with it again, you have some 6s 80-120. I have the same time but changed gear twice during that same run so it would be even faster. Something is wrong.

I think the actuator on my GT28 is rated for max 12PSI. So it's not fit for the job of 1.5 bar boost which is why Ive had to screw the boost controller all the way up. Will order an 18PSI (1.2 bar) actuator tomorrow and see what happens then.

charlysays

10-10-2016, 03:49 PM #38

(10-08-2016, 04:25 AM)starynovy I just went with it again, you have some 6s 80-120. I have the same time but changed gear twice during that same run so it would be even faster. Something is wrong.

addi.bigg

OM605; 7,5mm elements

94

10-11-2016, 12:52 AM #39

(10-09-2016, 02:18 PM)Hario
(10-05-2016, 01:57 PM)charlysays
(08-26-2016, 02:10 PM)starynovy If I was not blind stock turbo is GT25C, so yes GT28 is bigger but not by a lot. For stock pump it is nice fit of course, will do that smoky 230PS for sure.

(10-04-2016, 01:51 PM)Hario Cool, are you going to remove the suitcase sized silencer/DPF in the mid-section of the exhaust?

Also with your CHRA watercooling, if you turn the heater off will stationary the water not boil in the CHRA when running?

Beers, H.

Yep, that went a long time ago!
Wish I'd put a can of some sort as it means I'm kinda stuck with one mot tester. Will slice something and weld it either side.

Good question regards the heater hose... I thought it flowed all the time and the pump is just to boost it at low revs but if not then that could be a problem. Does the water not move unless the heater is switched on?!

No the water doesn't flow without the heater switched on. The circulation pump and the flow control valves which are by the brake servo on RHD models control water though the heater core.

I think it might boil in the CHRA and over pressurise your coolant system?

H

No e-mail, no reply here. I'm not happy because I'm a bit stucked with the mods......

addi.bigg

10-11-2016, 12:52 AM #39

(10-09-2016, 02:18 PM)Hario
(10-05-2016, 01:57 PM)charlysays
(08-26-2016, 02:10 PM)starynovy If I was not blind stock turbo is GT25C, so yes GT28 is bigger but not by a lot. For stock pump it is nice fit of course, will do that smoky 230PS for sure.

(10-04-2016, 01:51 PM)Hario Cool, are you going to remove the suitcase sized silencer/DPF in the mid-section of the exhaust?

Also with your CHRA watercooling, if you turn the heater off will stationary the water not boil in the CHRA when running?

Beers, H.

Yep, that went a long time ago!
Wish I'd put a can of some sort as it means I'm kinda stuck with one mot tester. Will slice something and weld it either side.

Good question regards the heater hose... I thought it flowed all the time and the pump is just to boost it at low revs but if not then that could be a problem. Does the water not move unless the heater is switched on?!

No the water doesn't flow without the heater switched on. The circulation pump and the flow control valves which are by the brake servo on RHD models control water though the heater core.

I think it might boil in the CHRA and over pressurise your coolant system?

H

No e-mail, no reply here. I'm not happy because I'm a bit stucked with the mods......

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

10-12-2016, 07:21 AM #40

(10-11-2016, 12:52 AM)addi.bigg
(10-09-2016, 02:18 PM)Hario
(10-05-2016, 01:57 PM)charlysays Yep, that went a long time ago!
Wish I'd put a can of some sort as it means I'm kinda stuck with one mot tester. Will slice something and weld it either side.

Good question regards the heater hose... I thought it flowed all the time and the pump is just to boost it at low revs but if not then that could be a problem. Does the water not move unless the heater is switched on?!

No the water doesn't flow without the heater switched on. The circulation pump and the flow control valves which are by the brake servo on RHD models control water though the heater core.

I think it might boil in the CHRA and over pressurise your coolant system?

H

No e-mail, no reply here. I'm not happy because I'm a bit stucked with the mods......

Anything I can help with?
Did it relate to the intercooler?
If so I've not done anything with that yet.
Like the stock manifold, the 606 will do 220hp through the same parts (albeit at a lower rpm) so for now I'm working on the turbo and fuelling more or less exclusively.

charlysays

10-12-2016, 07:21 AM #40

(10-11-2016, 12:52 AM)addi.bigg
(10-09-2016, 02:18 PM)Hario
(10-05-2016, 01:57 PM)charlysays Yep, that went a long time ago!
Wish I'd put a can of some sort as it means I'm kinda stuck with one mot tester. Will slice something and weld it either side.

Good question regards the heater hose... I thought it flowed all the time and the pump is just to boost it at low revs but if not then that could be a problem. Does the water not move unless the heater is switched on?!

No the water doesn't flow without the heater switched on. The circulation pump and the flow control valves which are by the brake servo on RHD models control water though the heater core.

I think it might boil in the CHRA and over pressurise your coolant system?

H

No e-mail, no reply here. I'm not happy because I'm a bit stucked with the mods......

addi.bigg

OM605; 7,5mm elements

94

10-12-2016, 09:53 AM #41

(10-12-2016, 07:21 AM)charlysays
(10-11-2016, 12:52 AM)addi.bigg
(10-09-2016, 02:18 PM)Hario No the water doesn't flow without the heater switched on. The circulation pump and the flow control valves which are by the brake servo on RHD models control water though the heater core.

I think it might boil in the CHRA and over pressurise your coolant system?

H

No e-mail, no reply here. I'm not happy because I'm a bit stucked with the mods......

Anything I can help with?
Did it relate to the intercooler?
If so I've not done anything with that yet.
Like the stock manifold, the 606 will do 220hp through the same parts (albeit at a lower rpm) so for now I'm working on the turbo and fuelling more or less exclusively.

Mechanical conversion topics. Shut down, and throttle cable solution for automatic transmission.

addi.bigg

10-12-2016, 09:53 AM #41

(10-12-2016, 07:21 AM)charlysays
(10-11-2016, 12:52 AM)addi.bigg
(10-09-2016, 02:18 PM)Hario No the water doesn't flow without the heater switched on. The circulation pump and the flow control valves which are by the brake servo on RHD models control water though the heater core.

I think it might boil in the CHRA and over pressurise your coolant system?

H

No e-mail, no reply here. I'm not happy because I'm a bit stucked with the mods......

Anything I can help with?
Did it relate to the intercooler?
If so I've not done anything with that yet.
Like the stock manifold, the 606 will do 220hp through the same parts (albeit at a lower rpm) so for now I'm working on the turbo and fuelling more or less exclusively.

Mechanical conversion topics. Shut down, and throttle cable solution for automatic transmission.

addi.bigg

OM605; 7,5mm elements

94

10-14-2016, 08:39 AM #42

(10-12-2016, 09:53 AM)addi.bigg
(10-12-2016, 07:21 AM)charlysays
(10-11-2016, 12:52 AM)addi.bigg No e-mail, no reply here. I'm not happy because I'm a bit stucked with the mods......

Anything I can help with?
Did it relate to the intercooler?
If so I've not done anything with that yet.
Like the stock manifold, the 606 will do 220hp through the same parts (albeit at a lower rpm) so for now I'm working on the turbo and fuelling more or less exclusively.

Mechanical conversion topics. Shut down, and throttle cable solution for automatic transmission.

But in case, I'm happy if you can help me also!

addi.bigg

10-14-2016, 08:39 AM #42

(10-12-2016, 09:53 AM)addi.bigg
(10-12-2016, 07:21 AM)charlysays
(10-11-2016, 12:52 AM)addi.bigg No e-mail, no reply here. I'm not happy because I'm a bit stucked with the mods......

Anything I can help with?
Did it relate to the intercooler?
If so I've not done anything with that yet.
Like the stock manifold, the 606 will do 220hp through the same parts (albeit at a lower rpm) so for now I'm working on the turbo and fuelling more or less exclusively.

Mechanical conversion topics. Shut down, and throttle cable solution for automatic transmission.

But in case, I'm happy if you can help me also!

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

10-31-2016, 05:01 AM #43

I've not looked that far mate sorry.

Update is due though. Done over 1000 miles now on this china charger upgrade using it daily.

On 100% WVO (with veggi boost cetane additive, cost 2p per litre to add so fuel is 22p per litre). Got water injection on there now which seems to reduce EGT by around 100 degrees C.
Only slight issue I had was with the turbo oil feed.
I put crappy spiral wrap on it for some abrasion protection when I was experimenting with routing it and I left this on.
I towed a 750kg trailer the other week and it melted a bit due to the extra heat. Hypress longlife hose underneath was fine though.

So I got some glass sleeving from merlin motorsport which has a high temp silicone coating, this seems to work well.
It has made me think about getting a steel line made up or customising the heat shields to cover the oil hose.

I'm going to get a map with more on boost fuel and a little less off boost fuel and see how that does as there is no smoke WOT.
I did a 0-60 the other day and it did it in just over 8 seconds on pure WVO, so similar performance to the C280 V6 though my engine may have more peak power as it was able to do a close 0-60 even with the lag in 1st gear when pulling away.

After some testing with 1.5 - 2 bar from my air compressor I came to the conclusion that the MBC I got is rubbish and basically doesn't work so I'm running the 1.2 bar actuator straight from the compressor. I have just received a red spring from forge motorsport which I'll try asap.

Started building another adapter for the next car as well.

Turbo wise, I'm tempted to try a 76mm billet wheel into the Chinese GT2871. I'll machine the compressor housing in college, fit a 360 bearing kit myself then just have it balanced at a turbo specialist.
The reason for this is that currently, I can seemingly safely run the car with the wastegate completely shut and make about 1.45 bar of boost with no real EGT issues and little in the way of lag issues. So I think more air would do it some good.
Failing the 76mm wheel if it turns out to be too much hassle or not needed I might use a billet 71mm wheel with 360 bearing and run higher boost nearer 1.7 bar.

Been a fun summer project! Hopefully before long I'll be able to try the billeted turbo on my daily. I'll do more vids once I've got the stronger actuator spring in the turbo and a bit more fuel.

charlysays

10-31-2016, 05:01 AM #43

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

11-04-2016, 06:52 AM #44

Next adapter use 2" ID steel elbows and die grind the stock manifold hole from 1.5" to 2". Been there, done that, it's doo-able.

Also means less adapt-ification at the T3 flange

Beers.

This post was last modified: 11-04-2016, 06:52 AM by Hario'.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

11-04-2016, 06:52 AM #44

Next adapter use 2" ID steel elbows and die grind the stock manifold hole from 1.5" to 2". Been there, done that, it's doo-able.

Also means less adapt-ification at the T3 flange

Beers.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

11-07-2016, 05:41 PM #45

(11-04-2016, 06:52 AM)Hario Next adapter use 2" ID steel elbows and die grind the stock manifold hole from 1.5" to 2". Been there, done that, it's doo-able.

Also means less adapt-ification at the T3 flange

Beers.

I will think about it... I used 1.62" I.D CHS so it needed about 2mm grinding off all the way round. 2" I.D is too big to go into a T2 flange but would be correct for T3 as you say.
What I don't want is much/ any more lag and going T3 will only make that worse. I semi regularly tow a 1 ton trailer and already I have to lock it into 3rd and get the revs up for long hills due to the flat spot between 1.5 and 2.2k. Daily driving you don't notice this flat spot really so it's perfectly liveable.
There are much more capable turbos about than the GT2871 on a T2 flange. I get the feeling the likes of a GT3076 are for bigger elements.

The map I'm running now maxes the stock pump at stock voltage. By raising the voltage you can get another 20% or so fuel. I've got a map now which has a bit less off boost fuel to get rid of the smog when you boot it from low RPM but has raised the pump voltage so we'll see how the EGTs are now etc and how much it starts to use the wastegate. Based on that I'll know whether I just need more air or a bigger turbine too.

charlysays

11-07-2016, 05:41 PM #45

(11-04-2016, 06:52 AM)Hario Next adapter use 2" ID steel elbows and die grind the stock manifold hole from 1.5" to 2". Been there, done that, it's doo-able.

Also means less adapt-ification at the T3 flange

Beers.

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

11-26-2016, 06:53 AM #46

3,000 mile update...
All been OK so far after sheathing the oil feed with an RTV coated glass trunking type stuff.

Got a new map in with raised pump voltage and more fuel. Have to watch EGTs on hills now.
It also spins the wheels when it comes on boost in 2nd now hehe, more so now the temps have dropped and the tyre compound is harder... had a few sideways moments without trying.

After taking measurments off another chinese GT28 I think the best route for stage 2.1 is to go for a chinese T04E turbo (maxpeedingrods again). So that means making a T3 adapter.
If the setup works well and allows me to safely max out the stock pump (there's about 0.5v left to go on the voltage map) then I'll rebuild the T04E with a 360 bearing kit, fit a billet compressor wheel and have it balanced.
Think this might take a while though as the weather is crap and some aspects of the project really need to be done outdoors but I should have it ready by Easter or something.

This post was last modified: 11-26-2016, 06:55 AM by charlysays.

charlysays

11-26-2016, 06:53 AM #46

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

11-26-2016, 11:50 AM #47

(10-07-2016, 03:47 PM)charlysays
(10-07-2016, 03:10 PM)starynovy Will take some fine tuning.. mine 250TD with stock everything, just remaped goes the same or better.

Is that some kind of super stage 1.5 map?!

There was an IAT fault on star last time I checked it which may or may not affect the on boost fuelling.
So I need to swap this out with a known good one to see what happens.

I actually left my IAT just dangling under the headlight wrapped in a little baggy so the ECU thinks the charge temperature is much lower to increase fuelling a bit more Wink

Non standard boost piping so I didn't have to blank it off

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

11-26-2016, 11:50 AM #47

(10-07-2016, 03:47 PM)charlysays
(10-07-2016, 03:10 PM)starynovy Will take some fine tuning.. mine 250TD with stock everything, just remaped goes the same or better.

Is that some kind of super stage 1.5 map?!

There was an IAT fault on star last time I checked it which may or may not affect the on boost fuelling.
So I need to swap this out with a known good one to see what happens.

I actually left my IAT just dangling under the headlight wrapped in a little baggy so the ECU thinks the charge temperature is much lower to increase fuelling a bit more Wink

Non standard boost piping so I didn't have to blank it off

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

11-26-2016, 11:52 AM #48

(10-09-2016, 04:47 PM)charlysays I've already taken the water Cooling off and put the cooling system back to stock, thanks for the heads up on that.
From what I read coolant with 15 pounds of pressure wouldn't boil before 250 degree's but it wouldn't be cooling the CHRA much.
I've found a better hose for the job at the back on the passenger side which comes out of the block but water Cooling a journal bearing turbo on a diesel is not essential at all, so I'm leaving it for now!

lol for info I think thatpasenger side hose is heater core return to the block so it would still be no flow with the heater off FYI. But you're right, CHRA cooling not needed with diesel EGT's

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

11-26-2016, 11:52 AM #48

(10-09-2016, 04:47 PM)charlysays I've already taken the water Cooling off and put the cooling system back to stock, thanks for the heads up on that.
From what I read coolant with 15 pounds of pressure wouldn't boil before 250 degree's but it wouldn't be cooling the CHRA much.
I've found a better hose for the job at the back on the passenger side which comes out of the block but water Cooling a journal bearing turbo on a diesel is not essential at all, so I'm leaving it for now!

lol for info I think thatpasenger side hose is heater core return to the block so it would still be no flow with the heater off FYI. But you're right, CHRA cooling not needed with diesel EGT's

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

frans-c

K26-2

38

11-27-2016, 12:10 PM #49

Your latest update just makes me more eager to get starting with mine!

I had my ECU soldered this weekend. Unfortunately neither of seanyt's Stage 1 or Stage 2 maps want to work. My glow plugs cycle and the shut-off valve makes all the right noises, but the starter doesn't want to engage. Sean and I are busy trying to figure out what's wrong. So I'm still on my stock ECU map at the moment. Hopefully we've figured it out before I start my project mid-December.

frans-c

11-27-2016, 12:10 PM #49

charlysays

GTA2056V

96

12-02-2016, 06:47 AM #50

(11-27-2016, 12:10 PM)frans-c Your latest update just makes me more eager to get starting with mine!

I had my ECU soldered this weekend. Unfortunately neither of seanyt's Stage 1 or Stage 2 maps want to work. My glow plugs cycle and the shut-off valve makes all the right noises, but the starter doesn't want to engage. Sean and I are busy trying to figure out what's wrong. So I'm still on my stock ECU map at the moment. Hopefully we've figured it out before I start my project mid-December.

Good stuff Smile

I have a new map in my inbox with yet more fuel from 0.5 bar boost onwards as well as the awesome 6,000rpm rev limit! Will try it as soon as I can get it programmed onto some chips. I really need to do a power run but finding somewhere which isn't a rip off or inaccurate round here is hard.
Ah cool.. Sean mentioned to me that there was an issue remapping facelift cars in as far as there's a portion of code in the map which is coded to the ECU/ immobiliser. I had an immobiliser emulator fitted to mine which removes this issue as I wanted to swap the ECUs between my two cars. It'll be sorted soon enough for sure!

charlysays

12-02-2016, 06:47 AM #50

(11-27-2016, 12:10 PM)frans-c Your latest update just makes me more eager to get starting with mine!

I had my ECU soldered this weekend. Unfortunately neither of seanyt's Stage 1 or Stage 2 maps want to work. My glow plugs cycle and the shut-off valve makes all the right noises, but the starter doesn't want to engage. Sean and I are busy trying to figure out what's wrong. So I'm still on my stock ECU map at the moment. Hopefully we've figured it out before I start my project mid-December.

Good stuff Smile

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