OM606 HX35, since march I dont have good map,
OM606 HX35, since march I dont have good map,
Here you can dowload my maps.
there is:
1. stock
2. ver 1. missing(i didt dowload it from chip (was 5500rpm max, 27psi boost, little smoke, good map, but after hitting 27 psi went to overboost error, and had to swith of engine for 10 seconds, + intake with MAF is complicated, so I asked to delete MAF. and increase a little bit fueling 2500-3000 rpm,
2. ver 2. from march 2016, MAF deleted, fueling like crazy in low RPM, big clouds of black smoke at any revs from 1000-3000 than air clears, undrivable. Ofcourse after hitting 25 psi goes to no boost at all.
3. I left the car at mechanic for 2 weeks. He came up with 3rd map, that most of the time doesnt work, sometimes kicks in during driving. told me to fool mapsensor with manual boost control, (after idea with 0-4 atm mapsensor from VW didnt work)
4. Map from internet , probably requires MAF , undrivable, but on my way on highway, used to kick in (MAF is installed low near bumper level to catch some air flow. I drove 180 km without overboost error, it was off everytime i slowed down, but power kicked in after cople of seconds of 100% throttle, very deleyed power response, probably because of MAF in bumper instead of intake.
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4eNTM_gCM5ZN1JqMmtydHpuZms/view?usp=sharing
this are my maps.
I have a 1998 300TD , with Electronic pump, HX35 turbo, and sockets soldierd to my ECU board.No EGR, NO catalist
I have the WG valve always vaccum possition, (baypass to provide vaccum to WG valve, to keep iWG closed at all time, when I connect it properly thru valve , WG does not shut, computer does not send valve signal to let vaccum thru since the time we we changed the turbo( before turbo upgrade stock ar worked perfectly) , so I baypassed it), I have also a Map sensor from VW 0-3 bar atm (up to 2 bar boost). When I drive on soft ver 1. and ver 2, I keep getting overboost error and I have to shut engine off for 10 seconds, and restart. And it smokes alot (ver 2. ). In ver 2 MAF is supposedly deleted. Its not installed at all before turbo. I dont have intake , I want a K&N directly on turbo. I asked my guy to delete form soft MAF starting ver 2. Dont know ver 3, never worked, maybe because of missing MAF in intake.
since March 2016 when I payed the guy to put sockts on ECU, and remap chips, he couldnt supply me with stable soft that does not get errors and once works, and once does not.
ver 1 was once working boost up to 27 psi, and not working via overboost, I purchased mapsensor 4 bar(3bar boost), and tried it on , but with it connected there was permanent mapsensor error (0,9V on ignition, mapsensor linearisation wrong, or something, noone i know can find and change linearisation map of mapsensor volts/airpressure) but it operates in other volt range (instead of 1,6V on ignition, its lower) and ECU puts default constant pressure readout at 1024hPa when 0,9V error detected.
For now I know that when car runs with boost, its capable of 26 psi of boost, and 260km/h topspeed,
The best soft is probably the one a friend dowloaded from internet in july(no overboost issue, and having to switch of engine for 10 seconds)), but I have to run it with properly connected Airflowmass meter, before turbo with proper intake, I would prefer to delete it from map, as long as there will be no big smoking because of lack of it.
But it should be possble to limit smoke based on mapsensor, and boost readout ?
any suggestions welcome.
The guy that was payed to write me a map, is not answering phone ... and I am to stupid to modify winols without any help
in the future I was thinking of replacing elements to 7,5mm, and getting in this pump, but looks like i will have to change gearbox to manual, and put mechanical pump ? unless I find help.
erio Posts: 1Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2016 10:35 pmLocation: Kielce, PL
Doing smoke control only by MAP is completely normal, many cars of this era had it this way and did not smoked a bit. Airmass is given by temperature of air and volume of cylinder and absolute pressure, MAF is not needed unless you want to monitor EGR of course.
What manifold do you have the HX-35 mounted on? Are you monitoring EGT?
What manifold do you have the HX-35 mounted on? Are you monitoring EGT? You can send your e-pump to Dieselmeken for elements. Also consider Baldurs' ecu. From what I've gathered that's the way to go for performance from e-pump.
(07-27-2016, 04:38 AM)50harleyrider What manifold do you have the HX-35 mounted on? Are you monitoring EGT? You can send your e-pump to Dieselmeken for elements.
(07-27-2016, 04:38 AM)50harleyrider What manifold do you have the HX-35 mounted on? Are you monitoring EGT? You can send your e-pump to Dieselmeken for elements.
That looks similar to adapter I bought from Hario on here. I haven't had a chance to use it yet. Curious if you have any other support on the turbo for bracing? An ecu from Baldur not interest you especially since you want to use e-pump? You should at least PM him-good guy.
(07-27-2016, 05:43 AM)seanyt Do you have the ability to program chips yourself?
Are you using the stock 6mm pump?
(07-27-2016, 05:43 AM)seanyt Do you have the ability to program chips yourself?
Are you using the stock 6mm pump?
(07-27-2016, 05:43 AM)seanyt Do you have the ability to program chips yourself?
Are you using the stock 6mm pump?
[quote pid='82160' dateline='1469622401']
(07-27-2016, 05:43 AM)seanyt Do you have the ability to program chips yourself?
Are you using the stock 6mm pump?
Well, well 2Bar.. I have to modify my old GT25C on OM605.. never got around that boost control on this shit ECU. Will fit pressure operated WG and run it like that.
Bump Baldur. Why not? With his ecu ,you can program with a PC! No chip mods required and you'll get rid of that crappy oe ecu and you can play with your e-pump all you want! That's my intent on my F150 swap.
he has already spent money on his ecu getting it modded, and has a chip programmer.
No point going to the added expense of a new ecu and wiring the complete unit in and wiring in clocks etc.
Baldurs ecu is great for engine swaps into other vehicles and edc pump extreme tuning.
Most of the time a remap and 8mm pump does people without the need to go changing parameters.
Ive remapped plenty of different kinds of ecus, most people just want a working solution not added expense or work.
The architecture of the oe ecu doesn't lend itself well to chip tuning. I wish Baldur would pipe in.
I don't think the architecture of the oe ecu would lend itself worse to chip tuning than most other oe ecus. In fact it's not a very complicated system compared to most other oe ecus, it only controls a couple of outputs that are of any significance.
The oe ecu is just like most other oe ecus in one fact, there's hardly any information about its maps or control strategies publically available or on the open market. This means that a person who just wants to tune their car to their satisfaction cannot just go and buy something like hptuners/binary editor/tunercats/hondata and start tuning.
They'll have to either spend countless hours reverse engineering or find someone who has done that and documented their work to the extent that it is of any value and they're willing to sell it. (if that person even exists)
Tuning is not supposed to be a dark art, but when dealing with a system that isn't documented at all and the original author can not be reached for comment, it always is a kind of a dark art (and this applies to even the most popular OEM reflash solutions, the software vendors didn't make the ECUs and only know half the story behind all the countless maps and the strategies that connect them).
Now, if your setup is not highly modified and not modified in an unusual manner, you can get chips with programming that is known to work, and this is an easy solution if you have a running car and just want more performance out of a pretty much standard package.
I would be interested in a similar program for my 98 e300td. I have plenty of spare turbos laying around and can socket the ecu locally if someone is willing to sale me a chip.
Any idea how much power the hx35 is making with 27psi and stock pump? I have been searching for days and I see the number 250hp thrown around alot. If you are making 2bar on stock pump I would assume you are fueling enough to make over 300hp.
Thanks,
Bryan
Spoolinawd@gmail.com
(08-05-2016, 04:55 PM)Suitko Hey Erio, what is the size of exhaust housing on your hx35?
Thanks
(08-05-2016, 04:55 PM)Suitko Hey Erio, what is the size of exhaust housing on your hx35?
Thanks
(09-08-2016, 10:55 AM)Spoolin I would be interested in a similar program for my 98 e300td. I have plenty of spare turbos laying around and can socket the ecu locally if someone is willing to sale me a chip.
Any idea how much power the hx35 is making with 27psi and stock pump? I have been searching for days and I see the number 250hp thrown around alot. If you are making 2bar on stock pump I would assume you are fueling enough to make over 300hp.
Thanks,
Bryan
Spoolinawd@gmail.com
(09-08-2016, 10:55 AM)Spoolin I would be interested in a similar program for my 98 e300td. I have plenty of spare turbos laying around and can socket the ecu locally if someone is willing to sale me a chip.
Any idea how much power the hx35 is making with 27psi and stock pump? I have been searching for days and I see the number 250hp thrown around alot. If you are making 2bar on stock pump I would assume you are fueling enough to make over 300hp.
Thanks,
Bryan
Spoolinawd@gmail.com
I understand power is limited with stock pump due to element size. Couldn't the ecu be tricked with a map clamp to limit voltage so it thinks the boost is less. An even easier way is to bleed pressure from the sensor to the atmosphere.
When programming the chips I figure the max boost pressure limit would be deleted just as you would delete egr function and the maf sensor.
If the ecu sees less boost it fuels less.
A remap removes egr / airflow meter and boost limits.
So you can run any boost setting but 1.7 is the map sensor limit.
Also you can run more boost to keep heat down. It's just not advised to run a 6mm at its limit.
It's safer to run an 7.5-8mm pump at the same fuel setting for the same power and headroom for more.
But it depends what your goal is. Happy with 250hp 6mm anymore start considering swapping elements. This goes for om605