Om617a dyno results
Om617a dyno results
![[Image: UptH3T.jpg]](http://imageshack.com/a/img922/2488/UptH3T.jpg)
I need some help deciphering my dyno results. They seem almost to good to be true. The picture above is my average run. The best pull of the session was 148.6hp and 450tq. I was not expecting these results, I was expecting more HP and less TQ. All pulls were in 4th gear non-lockup with electric fans on high (70amp draw) om617a, 7.5mm IP with external ALDA, Hx30w turbo, top mount intercooler, Chevy 700r4 transmission, 4.56 rear gear ratio.
I need some help deciphering my dyno results. They seem almost to good to be true. The picture above is my average run. The best pull of the session was 148.6hp and 450tq. I was not expecting these results, I was expecting more HP and less TQ. All pulls were in 4th gear non-lockup with electric fans on high (70amp draw) om617a, 7.5mm IP with external ALDA, Hx30w turbo, top mount intercooler, Chevy 700r4 transmission, 4.56 rear gear ratio.
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
The could have got a tach signal off of your rolling speed. If they did this and it wasnt right you can get these results.
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
Power is still power, but torque and speed don't make any sense.
Baldur Gislason
Yuck, rolling road data from an auto trans car. You can't really make any sense of it without having an engine speed sensor connected to the dyno. I mean you can guess but to get good data you really need to know what the engine speed was because with a torque converter the ratio between input and output is not the same across the rev range.
Power is still power, but torque and speed don't make any sense.
Baldur Gislason
(09-24-2016, 07:40 PM)baldur Yuck, rolling road data from an auto trans car. You can't really make any sense of it without having an engine speed sensor connected to the dyno. I mean you can guess but to get good data you really need to know what the engine speed was because with a torque converter the ratio between input and output is not the same across the rev range.I always apappreciate your input badur.
Power is still power, but torque and speed don't make any sense.
(09-24-2016, 07:40 PM)baldur Yuck, rolling road data from an auto trans car. You can't really make any sense of it without having an engine speed sensor connected to the dyno. I mean you can guess but to get good data you really need to know what the engine speed was because with a torque converter the ratio between input and output is not the same across the rev range.I always apappreciate your input badur.
Power is still power, but torque and speed don't make any sense.
What was your boost, egt, and what is your pump set at as far as CC
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
I feel like there's a lot left in your combo. Mine did 125 and 182ft lb with a a/w, hx30, and turned up stock MW. Of course that is dependent on the dyno your on.
What was your boost, egt, and what is your pump set at as far as CC
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(09-28-2016, 07:38 AM)MFSuper90 I feel like there's a lot left in your combo. Mine did 125 and 182ft lb with a a/w, hx30, and turned up stock MW. Of course that is dependent on the dyno your on.I don't remember what CC's but Goran says it's good to 300+hp. It will blow black smoke when the boost runs out at 20psi. As long as I feather the throttle to keep boost at the wastegated 20psi egt's stay below 1100* I raced it on the 8th mile track last weekend and got 9.8 seconds, from my research that's a little quickquicker than the factory 4.0 with stock tires by about 1 second. The factory 4.0 was rated at 152 at the wheels. I'dgeuss I'm right at 200 rear wheel hp. I need to find a better dyno.
What was your boost, egt, and what is your pump set at as far as CC
(09-28-2016, 07:38 AM)MFSuper90 I feel like there's a lot left in your combo. Mine did 125 and 182ft lb with a a/w, hx30, and turned up stock MW. Of course that is dependent on the dyno your on.I don't remember what CC's but Goran says it's good to 300+hp. It will blow black smoke when the boost runs out at 20psi. As long as I feather the throttle to keep boost at the wastegated 20psi egt's stay below 1100* I raced it on the 8th mile track last weekend and got 9.8 seconds, from my research that's a little quickquicker than the factory 4.0 with stock tires by about 1 second. The factory 4.0 was rated at 152 at the wheels. I'dgeuss I'm right at 200 rear wheel hp. I need to find a better dyno.
What was your boost, egt, and what is your pump set at as far as CC
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Don't be scared of egts, especially that low. When then get to 1600+ is when I worry a little. My engine does 1350F when I'm on it hard, and my pulling tractor engine hits 1700f going down the track. I think you'll be surprise if you try some more boost and fuel.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(10-03-2016, 08:33 PM)MFSuper90 Don't be scared of egts, especially that low. When then get to 1600+ is when I worry a little. My engine does 1350F when I'm on it hard, and my pulling tractor engine hits 1700f going down the track. I think you'll be surprise if you try some more boost and fuel.It definitely feels like it wants more boost but blowblowby is an issue. At 26psi it tried to push the dipstick out so I turned it back down to 20. I think I'll just adjust in very small increments until I hit a safe level, I'm thithinking maybe 22-23psi. 2-3 psi I believe will actually be a noticeable increase in power.
(10-03-2016, 08:33 PM)MFSuper90 Don't be scared of egts, especially that low. When then get to 1600+ is when I worry a little. My engine does 1350F when I'm on it hard, and my pulling tractor engine hits 1700f going down the track. I think you'll be surprise if you try some more boost and fuel.It definitely feels like it wants more boost but blowblowby is an issue. At 26psi it tried to push the dipstick out so I turned it back down to 20. I think I'll just adjust in very small increments until I hit a safe level, I'm thithinking maybe 22-23psi. 2-3 psi I believe will actually be a noticeable increase in power.
one of the things i am working on now is to install an extractor in the exhaust to pull the blow by out. all you need is a pipe with a taper cut at the end welded into the down pipe it works best of you center it in the exhaust stream. i have seen these types of systems generate upwards of 4" HG vacuum in the case under high boost.
(10-04-2016, 10:47 AM)R-3350 one of the things i am working on now is to install an extractor in the exhaust to pull the blow by out. all you need is a pipe with a taper cut at the end welded into the down pipe it works best of you center it in the exhaust stream. i have seen these types of systems generate upwards of 4" HG vacuum in the case under high boost.
R-3350, please make a whole post about this.... it would be nice to copy a working design.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
(10-04-2016, 10:47 AM)R-3350 one of the things i am working on now is to install an extractor in the exhaust to pull the blow by out. all you need is a pipe with a taper cut at the end welded into the down pipe it works best of you center it in the exhaust stream. i have seen these types of systems generate upwards of 4" HG vacuum in the case under high boost.
R-3350, please make a whole post about this.... it would be nice to copy a working design.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
its a simple system that a lot of drag cars use. all you need is a tube around 3/8" to 1/2" with the end cut at a 45* angle. Then cut a hole into your down pipe post turbo and inset the pipe so the tip of the 45 is just shy of the center of the down pipe with the open side of the cut facing down stream. then weld the tube in place and make sure there are no leaks around the sides of the hole. it works as a venturi the exhaust rushing past the angled cut creates a low pressure zone that pulls the case vapors out generating a vacuum in the case. the 617 does have a baffle in the valve cover to limit oil loss but even with that there is some oil vapor lost in the gas stream which could be exacerbated by pulling a vacuum so i wouldn't run it without a catch tank in the line somewhere. it might also be a good idea to install a check valve to keep the vacuum constant as the stock down pipe can generate some pressure at higher rpm due to its smaller size. or you could do what i did and fab up a 3.5" down pipe.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Lots of our tractors and industrial equipment use that same exhaust vacuum tube. But all of ours are used to suck excess dirt from the air cleaner
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
What I'm seeing on other sites is an approximately 1/2" tube inserted downstream to the exhaust at a 45 degree angle. The end of this tube is also cut at 45 degrees making its opening intersect with the exhaust stream at 90 degrees.
I'm also seeing examples with an elliptical notch cut just above the 45 on the tube (like a flute). Does this limit the venturi effect or does it have another purpose?
New to me but sounds like a great idea.
What I'm seeing on other sites is an approximately 1/2" tube inserted downstream to the exhaust at a 45 degree angle. The end of this tube is also cut at 45 degrees making its opening intersect with the exhaust stream at 90 degrees.
I'm also seeing examples with an elliptical notch cut just above the 45 on the tube (like a flute). Does this limit the venturi effect or does it have another purpose?
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
One of our tractors has a 5" exhaust on it, but the ID is only 4" because it has a shroud around the tube where it enters the exhaust stream. I would guess this neck down then back out creates more of a Venturi effect and lessens the chance of soot going in the air cleaner
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
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