non-EGR manifold pyrometer tap location
non-EGR manifold pyrometer tap location
on my '85 CA exhaust manifold there is an obvious place to put it, but less so with the older piece. the one i have is 617 142 06 01.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
anyone with older manifolds, where did you put the boost and pyrometer taps? the long runner intake manifold looks like having plenty of places for the boost tap, but the relatively curvier, smaller exhaust manifold has no very obvious place to accommodate the bulky pyrometer sensor.
on my '85 CA exhaust manifold there is an obvious place to put it, but less so with the older piece. the one i have is 617 142 06 01.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
On my 78 W116 300SD the pyrometer tap was placed in the lower part of the exhaust manifold.
See my post from another forum. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3397527-post46.html
The boost tap should be taken off the intake manifold.
No need to drill any more holes in the W115 long runner intake.
I'm planning on plugging the front port with a Volvo oil plug and tapping the plug for the boost banjo bolt.
I pulled an extra one for you, let me know when it is convenient to drop it off.
Hi brickton,
On my 78 W116 300SD the pyrometer tap was placed in the lower part of the exhaust manifold.
See my post from another forum. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3397527-post46.html
The boost tap should be taken off the intake manifold.
No need to drill any more holes in the W115 long runner intake.
I'm planning on plugging the front port with a Volvo oil plug and tapping the plug for the boost banjo bolt.
I pulled an extra one for you, let me know when it is convenient to drop it off.
come on over, we can drill & tap the plugs here. with no especial love for the banjo bolt, i have some brass 90 MPT-compression fittings that might do the trick.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
hiya alec, thanks, very helpful to see photographs of how you did it. looks like a good spot. i just got my replacement 7/16" drill bit for the NPT tap i used last time (forget if it was nominally 1/4" or 1/8"). so you suggest reusing the PCV port? not bad, if i send the gases somewhere else.... a PCV venturi would be a nice feature to have on the new exhaust i keep meaning to buy.
come on over, we can drill & tap the plugs here. with no especial love for the banjo bolt, i have some brass 90 MPT-compression fittings that might do the trick.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
My plan is to drill (with a 17/64 bit) and tap a M14 X 1.5 plug from a MW IP to accept the M8 X 1.0 banjo bolt used for the boost pressure sense line.
The second port on the W115 long runner intake that had the PCV nipple (for the NA 300D engine) has a M18 X 1.5 thread.
I've already drilled (with a 27/64 bit) and tapped a M18 X 1.5 Volvo oil drain plug to accept the M12 X 1.5 threads of a pressure sender.
I want to keep the switchover valve circuit (at least until I update the IP and run higher boost pressures).
My mechanic let me use his drill press and tap.
Figure 1 - Top row - left to right: Boost sender M12 X 1.5, Boost line banjo bolt M8 X 1.0, Solid Volvo oil plug M18 X 1.5
Bottom row - left to right: M18 X 1.5 plug drilled and tapped to accept sender M12 X 1.5, MW IP plug M14 X 1.5, Hollowed out Volvo oil plug M18 X 1.5
Figure 2 -Top row - left to right: Boost sender M12 X 1.5 with attached modified M18 X 1.5 plug (thread adapter), Boost line banjo bolt M8 X 1.0, Solid Volvo oil plug M18 X1.5
Bottom row - left to right: MW IP plug M14 X 1.5, Hollowed out Volvo oil plug M18 X 1.5
I still need to install my W115 long runner intake in my 1978 W116 300SD, which will require a different air filter setup and clocking the turbo.
I already have a cone filter setup that I've used (for quick removal) in place of the standard air filter setup when I clean the engine bay at the carwash.
This I feel is an inadequate solution long-term.
A cone filter can ingest water that can splash up during adverse weather and cause a hydrolocked engine.
The long runner intake will allow for piping an intercooler when the IP is updated.
I plan to relocate the battery to the trunk to give space for the intercooler piping and a new enclosed air box location.
(Possible contenders: I have a 1976 W115 300D air box, or I also have a 1985 W123 300D California airbox, or...???).
The crankcase vapors are currently routed into the U-tube between the air filter and the turbo intake.
This creates a bit of a oily mess in that area, which I would like to remedy.
To coalesce oil vapors from the crankcase outlet of the valvecover, I was going to re-purpose my Weapon-R oil catch can from the 1979 Volvo 245DL, but the inlet and outlet openings are too small and restrictive.
Instead I got a Mishimoto baffled oil catch can that has bigger inlet and outlet (M20 threads) and a built-in 40 micron filter on the outlet.
This should eliminate crankcase oil vapors in the engine bay (and intercooler that will eventually be installed).
Once it is installed, we will see if it lives up to its reputation, I might still have to filter the catch can outlet stream further.
Bricktron, send me a message when it is convenient for you to have me to come by, and if I need to borrow any taps from my mechanic.
Hi bricktron, the front port on the W115 long runner intake that had the vacuum pump exhaust line banjo bolt has a M14 X 1.5 thread.
My plan is to drill (with a 17/64 bit) and tap a M14 X 1.5 plug from a MW IP to accept the M8 X 1.0 banjo bolt used for the boost pressure sense line.
The second port on the W115 long runner intake that had the PCV nipple (for the NA 300D engine) has a M18 X 1.5 thread.
I've already drilled (with a 27/64 bit) and tapped a M18 X 1.5 Volvo oil drain plug to accept the M12 X 1.5 threads of a pressure sender.
I want to keep the switchover valve circuit (at least until I update the IP and run higher boost pressures).
My mechanic let me use his drill press and tap.
Figure 1 - Top row - left to right: Boost sender M12 X 1.5, Boost line banjo bolt M8 X 1.0, Solid Volvo oil plug M18 X 1.5
Bottom row - left to right: M18 X 1.5 plug drilled and tapped to accept sender M12 X 1.5, MW IP plug M14 X 1.5, Hollowed out Volvo oil plug M18 X 1.5
Figure 2 -Top row - left to right: Boost sender M12 X 1.5 with attached modified M18 X 1.5 plug (thread adapter), Boost line banjo bolt M8 X 1.0, Solid Volvo oil plug M18 X1.5
Bottom row - left to right: MW IP plug M14 X 1.5, Hollowed out Volvo oil plug M18 X 1.5
I still need to install my W115 long runner intake in my 1978 W116 300SD, which will require a different air filter setup and clocking the turbo.
I already have a cone filter setup that I've used (for quick removal) in place of the standard air filter setup when I clean the engine bay at the carwash.
This I feel is an inadequate solution long-term.
A cone filter can ingest water that can splash up during adverse weather and cause a hydrolocked engine.
The long runner intake will allow for piping an intercooler when the IP is updated.
I plan to relocate the battery to the trunk to give space for the intercooler piping and a new enclosed air box location.
(Possible contenders: I have a 1976 W115 300D air box, or I also have a 1985 W123 300D California airbox, or...???).
The crankcase vapors are currently routed into the U-tube between the air filter and the turbo intake.
This creates a bit of a oily mess in that area, which I would like to remedy.
To coalesce oil vapors from the crankcase outlet of the valvecover, I was going to re-purpose my Weapon-R oil catch can from the 1979 Volvo 245DL, but the inlet and outlet openings are too small and restrictive.
Instead I got a Mishimoto baffled oil catch can that has bigger inlet and outlet (M20 threads) and a built-in 40 micron filter on the outlet.
This should eliminate crankcase oil vapors in the engine bay (and intercooler that will eventually be installed).
Once it is installed, we will see if it lives up to its reputation, I might still have to filter the catch can outlet stream further.
Bricktron, send me a message when it is convenient for you to have me to come by, and if I need to borrow any taps from my mechanic.
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