Brake line lock system
Brake line lock system
This is my first post to this forum, though I have been a member for a while.
I have a 1976 W123 300D with formerly NA OM617 fitted with a T40E aftermarket turbo and 3" straight through exhaust. No intercooler, but do have a cooling mist water/methanol injection system. The old girl is pretty old and tired, so not pushing out too much power, but still moves along ok.
I'd really like to be able to do a burnout in the thing but have no hope without the assistance of rain, so have been thinking of installing a rear brake line lock solenoid. I see there are plenty of options available from the likes of Hurst and B&M etc. All seem to use 1/8" NPT female threads on the solenoid. I'm trying to work out the best way to adapt that to my W123 brake lines, which I believe are M10 x 1 (correct me if I'm wrong). Has anyone heard of an off-the-shelf kit that has the right fittings to make it work without a lot of running around trying to source brake lines & fittings?
Thanks,
3DB
1976 W123 300D auto formerly NA OM617 with Dieselmeken 7.5mm M-pump + T40E turbo upgrade + 3" straight through exhaust + water/methanol injection + plenty of patina. Running on 100% homebrewed biodiesel
Hello from Australia.
This is my first post to this forum, though I have been a member for a while.
I have a 1976 W123 300D with formerly NA OM617 fitted with a T40E aftermarket turbo and 3" straight through exhaust. No intercooler, but do have a cooling mist water/methanol injection system. The old girl is pretty old and tired, so not pushing out too much power, but still moves along ok.
I'd really like to be able to do a burnout in the thing but have no hope without the assistance of rain, so have been thinking of installing a rear brake line lock solenoid. I see there are plenty of options available from the likes of Hurst and B&M etc. All seem to use 1/8" NPT female threads on the solenoid. I'm trying to work out the best way to adapt that to my W123 brake lines, which I believe are M10 x 1 (correct me if I'm wrong). Has anyone heard of an off-the-shelf kit that has the right fittings to make it work without a lot of running around trying to source brake lines & fittings?
Thanks,
3DB
1976 W123 300D auto formerly NA OM617 with Dieselmeken 7.5mm M-pump + T40E turbo upgrade + 3" straight through exhaust + water/methanol injection + plenty of patina. Running on 100% homebrewed biodiesel
My mate's '77 300D 80hp auto does one wheeler peelers fine in the dry
You should have no troubles...
1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km
1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD
Hmmmmmm...something not right there....
My mate's '77 300D 80hp auto does one wheeler peelers fine in the dry You should have no troubles...
1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km
1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD
matfield - thanks, will check out Aeroflo. I have seen the name around and probably should have checked that out by now.
1976 W123 300D auto formerly NA OM617 with Dieselmeken 7.5mm M-pump + T40E turbo upgrade + 3" straight through exhaust + water/methanol injection + plenty of patina. Running on 100% homebrewed biodiesel
NZScott - she is pretty lazy off the line and only produces any real power when the turbo spools up. Increasing the fuel delivery is on the list and I need to do some more reading on the forum about that....make that turbo spool up a bit sooner. I'm sure it would do a burnout if I revved it up in neutral and dumped it in drive, or did a roll-back, but it would be nice to get a little bit more life out of that gearbox and not roast the rear brakes doing it.
matfield - thanks, will check out Aeroflo. I have seen the name around and probably should have checked that out by now.
1976 W123 300D auto formerly NA OM617 with Dieselmeken 7.5mm M-pump + T40E turbo upgrade + 3" straight through exhaust + water/methanol injection + plenty of patina. Running on 100% homebrewed biodiesel
FWIW I had a spongy brake pedal once - turned out it was a leaking hose from the brake reservoir to the clutch master. It drained the brake fluid level down enough to somehow stop the rears from working but the fronts still had enough fluid to work lol
1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km
1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD
Yea, I would look into turning the fuel up for sure...
FWIW I had a spongy brake pedal once - turned out it was a leaking hose from the brake reservoir to the clutch master. It drained the brake fluid level down enough to somehow stop the rears from working but the fronts still had enough fluid to work lol
1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km
1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
ALDA adjustment will help with low end power. And fuel adjustment definetly! My w123 will roast a 215 tire without a thought
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
MFSuper90 - how much more quickly would your car roast that 215 if the back brakes weren't holding it back!
1976 W123 300D auto formerly NA OM617 with Dieselmeken 7.5mm M-pump + T40E turbo upgrade + 3" straight through exhaust + water/methanol injection + plenty of patina. Running on 100% homebrewed biodiesel
No ALDA here - still got the old NA MW pump with stock fuelling, so definitely needs more fuel when boost comes on. Just gotta make sure I don't make too much smoke down low off-boost....you can't do too much Rollin' Coal over here without getting slapped with a defect notice. I recently rebuilt my injectors with Monark nozzles, though - that made a big difference to the smoke levels.
MFSuper90 - how much more quickly would your car roast that 215 if the back brakes weren't holding it back!
1976 W123 300D auto formerly NA OM617 with Dieselmeken 7.5mm M-pump + T40E turbo upgrade + 3" straight through exhaust + water/methanol injection + plenty of patina. Running on 100% homebrewed biodiesel
Beers,
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Just buy a pair of hydraulic compression fittings which match the OD of your rear brake hard line, then buy a 12v hydraulic solenoid from a hydraulics parts shop for cheap and wire it though a relay to a switch in the cab. Note the compression fittings would need threads which match the threads on said hydraulic solenoid.. No 'kit' needed.
Beers,
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
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