W202 Wagon build thread - *NOW OM606*
W202 Wagon build thread - *NOW OM606*
02-12-2016, 05:22 AM
#52
(02-10-2016, 06:13 PM)MartinB I bought both for about 1500 CZK = 55,5 € = 43 GBP
I found out W203 C32 discs are 345mm and correct offset for W202 knuckles by the way.
But the calliper will still need the 3 or 4mm hardened washer spacers of course.
Regarding the hoses, the calliper end needs to be a 20 degree banjo hose fitting, to point in the right direction, and the hose needs to be 100mm longer than the standard item. But I still haven't worked out what the fitting is on the car end yet.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(02-10-2016, 06:13 PM)MartinB I bought both for about 1500 CZK = 55,5 € = 43 GBP
I found out W203 C32 discs are 345mm and correct offset for W202 knuckles by the way.
But the calliper will still need the 3 or 4mm hardened washer spacers of course.
Regarding the hoses, the calliper end needs to be a 20 degree banjo hose fitting, to point in the right direction, and the hose needs to be 100mm longer than the standard item. But I still haven't worked out what the fitting is on the car end yet.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
02-16-2016, 12:10 PM
#54
(02-12-2016, 09:33 AM)MartinB Yes, you are right 345×30 (S600 has 32mm). C30/32/55 amg have drilled rotors. Now I have to find some calipers for rear axle - for 300×22 mm discs.
ML 2-pistons are very cheap here, I'm gona buy one and try it
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(02-12-2016, 09:33 AM)MartinB Yes, you are right 345×30 (S600 has 32mm). C30/32/55 amg have drilled rotors. Now I have to find some calipers for rear axle - for 300×22 mm discs.
ML 2-pistons are very cheap here, I'm gona buy one and try it
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
02-18-2016, 10:30 AM
#56
(02-17-2016, 02:49 PM)MartinB Dont buy them! They are not same. Don´t fit.
Ok thanks, you know of any more S600 callipers? I'll pay a handling charge..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
02-18-2016, 03:32 PM
#57
W210 E200CDI 185kW Manual, W203 C30 CDI AMG 210kW Manual
No, sorry. It was little bit luck. Here was one S600 for spare parts. When I have time, I will take a photo of difference between S600 and ML calipers. S600 needs only washers to fit. Do you know the fact, that then you can use only 17"+ wheels ?
W210 E200CDI 185kW Manual, W203 C30 CDI AMG 210kW Manual
02-19-2016, 06:38 AM
#58
(02-18-2016, 03:32 PM)MartinB No, sorry. It was little bit luck. Here was one S600 for spare parts. When I have time, I will take a photo of difference between S600 and ML calipers. S600 needs only washers to fit. Do you know the fact, that then you can use only 17"+ wheels ?
Yes man 18" minimum with 345mm rotors, 330mm will fit 17"s.
Ok I see S600 calipers are quite cheap here also, I guess not many people own a S600 and go on ebay to get spares for it haha.
What are you thinking for hard washers? I can't find any off the shelf at 3mm thickness so going to ask a machinist for a quote. I'll get a patch if theyre cheap.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(02-18-2016, 03:32 PM)MartinB No, sorry. It was little bit luck. Here was one S600 for spare parts. When I have time, I will take a photo of difference between S600 and ML calipers. S600 needs only washers to fit. Do you know the fact, that then you can use only 17"+ wheels ?
Yes man 18" minimum with 345mm rotors, 330mm will fit 17"s.
Ok I see S600 calipers are quite cheap here also, I guess not many people own a S600 and go on ebay to get spares for it haha.
What are you thinking for hard washers? I can't find any off the shelf at 3mm thickness so going to ask a machinist for a quote. I'll get a patch if theyre cheap.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
![[Image: rotors1.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/rotors1.jpg.html)
![[Image: rotors2.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/rotors2.jpg.html)
03-10-2016, 07:20 AM
#61
![[Image: F81F2A37-F8D6-453E-B73A-73E06FA55C8B.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/F81F2A37-F8D6-453E-B73A-73E06FA55C8B.jpg.html)
![[Image: 5CE96EE3-BA28-4739-950E-0723C419DE0A.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/5CE96EE3-BA28-4739-950E-0723C419DE0A.jpg.html)
![[Image: atf3.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/atf3.jpg.html)
![[Image: atf2.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/atf2.jpg.html)
![[Image: atf1.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/atf1.jpg.html)
![[Image: atf8.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/atf8.jpg.html)
![[Image: atf9.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/atf9.jpg.html)
Do I need stone protection for the cooler core??
Also I'm thinking ATF cooler fan always on with ignition, is a temp switch really needed? Say 80 degrees Celsius..
Beers, H.
This post was last modified: 03-10-2016, 07:27 AM by Hario'.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
DIY air/fluid ATF cooler install, I definitely don't get any points for my inner wing hole sawing skills.
Do I need stone protection for the cooler core??
Also I'm thinking ATF cooler fan always on with ignition, is a temp switch really needed? Say 80 degrees Celsius..
Beers, H.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
![[Image: atf4.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/atf4.jpg.html)
![[Image: header%20tank%20relocate.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/header%20tank%20relocate.jpg.html)
04-09-2016, 07:19 AM
#63
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
I've found out the petrol 202 chassis has a lift pump mounted on a bracket under the tank, so I'm thinking of using the mount for a lift pump on my diesel chassis, need to see if it has the mounting lugs for a bolt on swap, (I hope so).
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
04-26-2016, 12:49 PM
#64
(02-12-2016, 09:33 AM)MartinB Yes, you are right 345×30 (S600 has 32mm). C30/32/55 amg have drilled rotors. Now I have to find some calipers for rear axle - for 300×22 mm discs.
Hey man which rear 300mm rotors and calipers did you get? I'm working on the back end now too.
Beers
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(02-12-2016, 09:33 AM)MartinB Yes, you are right 345×30 (S600 has 32mm). C30/32/55 amg have drilled rotors. Now I have to find some calipers for rear axle - for 300×22 mm discs.
Hey man which rear 300mm rotors and calipers did you get? I'm working on the back end now too.
Beers
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
04-27-2016, 06:34 AM
#66
(04-27-2016, 03:28 AM)MartinB I bought W220 S500 rear calipers. Not tested yet :-)
As in don't know if they fit? Ok sweet ill hope for good news!
W220 rear is 330 vented or not, and 58mm disc height (202 is 55.5). So assuming the 3mm offset works with the 220 caliper on the 202 hub we are good to go.
Can get 300mm rears discs on low power w220s so that might work, poss with the w202 amg disc (also 300mm) but again 3mm offset difference.
Gona try it and see as they say
This post was last modified: 04-27-2016, 11:32 AM by Hario'.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(04-27-2016, 03:28 AM)MartinB I bought W220 S500 rear calipers. Not tested yet :-)
As in don't know if they fit? Ok sweet ill hope for good news!
W220 rear is 330 vented or not, and 58mm disc height (202 is 55.5). So assuming the 3mm offset works with the 220 caliper on the 202 hub we are good to go.
Can get 300mm rears discs on low power w220s so that might work, poss with the w202 amg disc (also 300mm) but again 3mm offset difference.
Gona try it and see as they say
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
05-23-2016, 04:52 AM
#68
5mm tool steel spacers work good though, calliper is 5mm from wheel spoke inner face..
![[Image: brakes%202.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/brakes%202.jpg.html)
![[Image: brakes%201.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/brakes%201.jpg.html)
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Trial fit fronts, internet source banjo required on fronts is bollox. Stock convex cone and +50mm on the length is all that is needed, got to redo the hoses..
5mm tool steel spacers work good though, calliper is 5mm from wheel spoke inner face..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
05-23-2016, 06:01 AM
#69
Happy this welding is finally out the way so I can get onto the fun stuff..
Note the quality of some areas of the welding is due to using 0.8mm wire, 1.2mm plate, and 10.0 beers..
![[Image: 2_9.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/2_9.jpg.html)
![[Image: 3_8.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/3_8.jpg.html)
![[Image: 7.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/7.jpg.html)
![[Image: 6_1.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/6_1.jpg.html)
This post was last modified: 05-23-2016, 06:03 AM by Hario'.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
3 out of the 4 jacking points and associated outer sill areas were borked.. (All good now).
Happy this welding is finally out the way so I can get onto the fun stuff..
Note the quality of some areas of the welding is due to using 0.8mm wire, 1.2mm plate, and 10.0 beers..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
06-18-2016, 06:16 PM
#71
(04-27-2016, 03:28 AM)MartinB I bought W220 S500 rear calipers. Not tested yet :-)
I bought an S500 rear calliper to trial fit also, bolt spacing looks good, I think more like 5-8mm spacer maybe.
Couldn't get the seized 16mm calliper bolts loose though! ARB drop link won't let me get a ratchet on, more beer needed...
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(04-27-2016, 03:28 AM)MartinB I bought W220 S500 rear calipers. Not tested yet :-)
I bought an S500 rear calliper to trial fit also, bolt spacing looks good, I think more like 5-8mm spacer maybe.
Couldn't get the seized 16mm calliper bolts loose though! ARB drop link won't let me get a ratchet on, more beer needed...
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
07-13-2016, 07:43 AM
#72
(04-27-2016, 04:59 PM)MartinB Today I measured little bit. I think they will fit. Maybe with some 3mm spacers will be ok. Discs from E55/C32/C43....
W203 C55 rear rotors bought 300x22 and 55mm height. Got S500 rear calliper to try and make it work.
Fronts now on, had to peel my face off the windscreen first try..
![[Image: brakes%203.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/brakes%203.jpg.html)
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(04-27-2016, 04:59 PM)MartinB Today I measured little bit. I think they will fit. Maybe with some 3mm spacers will be ok. Discs from E55/C32/C43....
W203 C55 rear rotors bought 300x22 and 55mm height. Got S500 rear calliper to try and make it work.
Fronts now on, had to peel my face off the windscreen first try..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
07-13-2016, 07:49 AM
#73
![[Image: hx52.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/hx52.jpg.html)
This post was last modified: 07-13-2016, 07:50 AM by Hario'.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
10-23-2016, 01:44 PM
#74
![[Image: discs1_1.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/discs1_1.jpg.html)
![[Image: 20161003_102159.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/20161003_102159.jpg.html)
![[Image: 20161008_150425.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/20161008_150425.jpg.html)
Forgot to paint the dam backing plates..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Rears replaced with W203 C36 callipers and rotors, hoses made with Goodrich hose and re-buildable fittings.
Forgot to paint the dam backing plates..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
10-23-2016, 01:47 PM
#75
Going to get new nozzles and rebuild the injectors, HughF on here has a pop tester so we can do it ourselves, thinking of going for 150 bar pop pressure, in anticipation of fitting a build pump once I've sorted the chassis. Has anybody done that with the stock 6mm EDC pump before? IE will it run ok or need timing adjusting because of the higher pop pressure?
Shall I go for Monark ones or stock Bosh nozzles? Any input appreciated!
![[Image: dv1.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/dv1.jpg.html)
Beers, H..
This post was last modified: 10-23-2016, 01:49 PM by Hario'.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Replaced the DV seals and washers, still idles like shit..
Going to get new nozzles and rebuild the injectors, HughF on here has a pop tester so we can do it ourselves, thinking of going for 150 bar pop pressure, in anticipation of fitting a build pump once I've sorted the chassis. Has anybody done that with the stock 6mm EDC pump before? IE will it run ok or need timing adjusting because of the higher pop pressure?
Shall I go for Monark ones or stock Bosh nozzles? Any input appreciated!
Beers, H..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
10-23-2016, 02:15 PM
#76
That straight pipe I bought for the merge is such heavy gauge it takes ages to cut, and now I've got to chop a big hole in the side of it for the WG, dam..
Excuse the welding, I will get one of my pro friends to MIG/TIG over the joints later.
![[Image: 20160924_174222.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/OM606%20Compound%20Manifold/20160924_174222.jpg.html)
![[Image: 20160925_201643.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/OM606%20Compound%20Manifold/20160925_201643.jpg.html)
![[Image: 20160926_200912.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/OM606%20Compound%20Manifold/20160926_200912.jpg.html)
The bottom runner in the last photo will not give me good DP clearance so I will re-do it much closer to the block..
All good fun though
This post was last modified: 10-23-2016, 02:18 PM by Hario'.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
I decided to go for 3 x 2-1 merges, then a 3-1 merge at the turbo, for space saving and less pipes to weld!
That straight pipe I bought for the merge is such heavy gauge it takes ages to cut, and now I've got to chop a big hole in the side of it for the WG, dam..
Excuse the welding, I will get one of my pro friends to MIG/TIG over the joints later.
The bottom runner in the last photo will not give me good DP clearance so I will re-do it much closer to the block..
All good fun though
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
10-23-2016, 03:41 PM
#77
Going with an autobox for now that should make its way over here in a few weeks from Amar. Still so much shit to buy.
I still need to grab one of those 210 tanks myself too.
Good to see some progress mate. I still havent a fucking clue what im doing about brakes. I have 16's and some 400e calipers but i dont think they will be enough...
Going with an autobox for now that should make its way over here in a few weeks from Amar. Still so much shit to buy.
I still need to grab one of those 210 tanks myself too.
10-24-2016, 01:31 AM
#78
(10-23-2016, 01:47 PM)Hario Replaced the DV seals and washers, still idles like shit..
Going to get new nozzles and rebuild the injectors, HughF on here has a pop tester so we can do it ourselves, thinking of going for 150 bar pop pressure, in anticipation of fitting a build pump once I've sorted the chassis. Has anybody done that with the stock 6mm EDC pump before? IE will it run ok or need timing adjusting because of the higher pop pressure?
Shall I go for Monark ones or stock Bosh nozzles? Any input appreciated!
Beers, H..
As far as i've heard Bosch ones, also the OE Merc Boschs are coming from India with a questionnable quality.
(10-23-2016, 01:47 PM)Hario Replaced the DV seals and washers, still idles like shit..
Going to get new nozzles and rebuild the injectors, HughF on here has a pop tester so we can do it ourselves, thinking of going for 150 bar pop pressure, in anticipation of fitting a build pump once I've sorted the chassis. Has anybody done that with the stock 6mm EDC pump before? IE will it run ok or need timing adjusting because of the higher pop pressure?
Shall I go for Monark ones or stock Bosh nozzles? Any input appreciated!
Beers, H..
As far as i've heard Bosch ones, also the OE Merc Boschs are coming from India with a questionnable quality.
10-25-2016, 12:44 PM
#79
They are coming from India, but they are as good as the ones in the older days. Its a question of quality control, not of the country they are made in. The Bosch nozzles are still the best you can get, but they are by far the most expensive. Thats why I dont use them, there are good alternatives on the market, for example Henzo nozzles.
10-26-2016, 02:05 PM
#80
(10-23-2016, 03:41 PM)Mr_Robs Good to see some progress mate. I still havent a fucking clue what im doing about brakes. I have 16's and some 400e calipers but i dont think they will be enough...
Going with an autobox for now that should make its way over here in a few weeks from Amar. Still so much shit to buy.
I still need to grab one of those 210 tanks myself too.
210 coolant header tank?
I think I've got one you can have!
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(10-23-2016, 03:41 PM)Mr_Robs Good to see some progress mate. I still havent a fucking clue what im doing about brakes. I have 16's and some 400e calipers but i dont think they will be enough...
Going with an autobox for now that should make its way over here in a few weeks from Amar. Still so much shit to buy.
I still need to grab one of those 210 tanks myself too.
210 coolant header tank?
I think I've got one you can have!
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
01-11-2017, 04:28 PM
#81
![[Image: visco%20tool%20removal.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/visco%20tool%20removal.jpg.html)
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
During a waterpump swap, I also invented a way to remove the visco coupling with out the special and expensive Mercedes tools, there are 3 tools you are supposed to buy for this exercise. I just used a pipe wrench, monkey wrench? English name for that thing.. As below, works well and cracked the bolt easily, I just wrapped the jaws in electrical tape to save the pulley & belt from le damage.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
![[Image: precombustion%20chambers%20and%20injectors.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/precombustion%20chambers%20and%20injectors.jpg.html)
01-11-2017, 04:42 PM
#83
, with big clunky buttons haha), and converted it to euro torch because euro torch and did some patching![[Image: welder2.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/welder2.jpg.html)
![[Image: welder1.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/welder1.jpg.html)
![[Image: welder3.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/welder3.jpg.html)
This post was last modified: 01-11-2017, 04:43 PM by Hario'.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Bought an Oxford Welders Atomic 160 ( old and British , with big clunky buttons haha), and converted it to euro torch because euro torch and did some patching
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
01-11-2017, 04:50 PM
#84
![[Image: wing2.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/wing2.jpg.html)
![[Image: rear%20arch%20patch%201.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/rear%20arch%20patch%201.jpg.html)
![[Image: rear%20arch%20patch%202.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/rear%20arch%20patch%202.jpg.html)
This post was last modified: 01-11-2017, 04:51 PM by Hario'.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
01-12-2017, 07:08 AM
#85
(01-11-2017, 04:50 PM)Hario Bit boring but I made some rust repair progress, very satisfying, other inner rear arch to do then the weld-a-thon is complete
Well done. Once I started digging around on mine there were a lot of holes in the inner front wings. Worst bit was up at the top, in the channel where all the wiring runs just below the outer wing mounting rail. But anywhere where there was one of those weld studs for the inner arch liners there was a good chance of a hole.
You can buy M6 weld studs off ebay and plug weld them on, then drill out the black plastic nuts a bit bigger and it works.
charlysays
01-12-2017, 07:08 AM #85(01-11-2017, 04:50 PM)Hario Bit boring but I made some rust repair progress, very satisfying, other inner rear arch to do then the weld-a-thon is complete
Well done. Once I started digging around on mine there were a lot of holes in the inner front wings. Worst bit was up at the top, in the channel where all the wiring runs just below the outer wing mounting rail. But anywhere where there was one of those weld studs for the inner arch liners there was a good chance of a hole.
You can buy M6 weld studs off ebay and plug weld them on, then drill out the black plastic nuts a bit bigger and it works.
01-12-2017, 01:40 PM
#86
(01-12-2017, 07:08 AM)charlysays(01-11-2017, 04:50 PM)Hario Bit boring but I made some rust repair progress, very satisfying, other inner rear arch to do then the weld-a-thon is complete
Well done. Once I started digging around on mine there were a lot of holes in the inner front wings. Worst bit was up at the top, in the channel where all the wiring runs just below the outer wing mounting rail. But anywhere where there was one of those weld studs for the inner arch liners there was a good chance of a hole.
You can buy M6 weld studs off ebay and plug weld them on, then drill out the black plastic nuts a bit bigger and it works.
Thanks, the front of mine is completely fine, I've had all the front panels off, it just has very localised rust to all 4 jacking points, NS and OS rear floor and the arches as above. It's started at the seams and progressed about 2-4" in every direction, fortunately I've caught it in time. I've used 3 cans of waxoil so far..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(01-12-2017, 07:08 AM)charlysays(01-11-2017, 04:50 PM)Hario Bit boring but I made some rust repair progress, very satisfying, other inner rear arch to do then the weld-a-thon is complete
Well done. Once I started digging around on mine there were a lot of holes in the inner front wings. Worst bit was up at the top, in the channel where all the wiring runs just below the outer wing mounting rail. But anywhere where there was one of those weld studs for the inner arch liners there was a good chance of a hole.
You can buy M6 weld studs off ebay and plug weld them on, then drill out the black plastic nuts a bit bigger and it works.
Thanks, the front of mine is completely fine, I've had all the front panels off, it just has very localised rust to all 4 jacking points, NS and OS rear floor and the arches as above. It's started at the seams and progressed about 2-4" in every direction, fortunately I've caught it in time. I've used 3 cans of waxoil so far..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
01-16-2017, 06:24 AM
#87
(01-12-2017, 01:40 PM)Hario(01-12-2017, 07:08 AM)charlysays(01-11-2017, 04:50 PM)Hario Bit boring but I made some rust repair progress, very satisfying, other inner rear arch to do then the weld-a-thon is complete
Well done. Once I started digging around on mine there were a lot of holes in the inner front wings. Worst bit was up at the top, in the channel where all the wiring runs just below the outer wing mounting rail. But anywhere where there was one of those weld studs for the inner arch liners there was a good chance of a hole.
You can buy M6 weld studs off ebay and plug weld them on, then drill out the black plastic nuts a bit bigger and it works.
Thanks, the front of mine is completely fine, I've had all the front panels off, it just has very localised rust to all 4 jacking points, NS and OS rear floor and the arches as above. It's started at the seams and progressed about 2-4" in every direction, fortunately I've caught it in time. I've used 3 cans of waxoil so far..
It's weird how they rust in different very ways... all the jacking points on mine were perfect. There was some nasty random surface rust around some of the holes in the lower sill where the big round cover clips push in. Bit of welding on the lower rear quarters behind the bumper. Both front perches had rotted out at the top to some degree. All in all really not bad for a 20 year old original car with history of crash damage. Mileage definitely plays a role. Lower mileage cars tend to be less rusty in general as the crap paint hasn't had such a beating!
charlysays
01-16-2017, 06:24 AM #87(01-12-2017, 01:40 PM)Hario(01-12-2017, 07:08 AM)charlysays(01-11-2017, 04:50 PM)Hario Bit boring but I made some rust repair progress, very satisfying, other inner rear arch to do then the weld-a-thon is complete
Well done. Once I started digging around on mine there were a lot of holes in the inner front wings. Worst bit was up at the top, in the channel where all the wiring runs just below the outer wing mounting rail. But anywhere where there was one of those weld studs for the inner arch liners there was a good chance of a hole.
You can buy M6 weld studs off ebay and plug weld them on, then drill out the black plastic nuts a bit bigger and it works.
Thanks, the front of mine is completely fine, I've had all the front panels off, it just has very localised rust to all 4 jacking points, NS and OS rear floor and the arches as above. It's started at the seams and progressed about 2-4" in every direction, fortunately I've caught it in time. I've used 3 cans of waxoil so far..
It's weird how they rust in different very ways... all the jacking points on mine were perfect. There was some nasty random surface rust around some of the holes in the lower sill where the big round cover clips push in. Bit of welding on the lower rear quarters behind the bumper. Both front perches had rotted out at the top to some degree. All in all really not bad for a 20 year old original car with history of crash damage. Mileage definitely plays a role. Lower mileage cars tend to be less rusty in general as the crap paint hasn't had such a beating!
![[Image: mani.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/mani.jpg.html)
![[Image: 20170129_153907.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/20170129_153907.jpg.html)
![[Image: 20170129_162258.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/OM606%20Compound%20Manifold/20170129_162258.jpg.html)
![[Image: 20170217_133137.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/20170217_133137.jpg.html)
02-17-2017, 02:49 PM
#90
#1 looked ok, and they got progressively much worse as I worked to #6..
![[Image: injector.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/injector.jpg.html)
Broke my god dam home made precombustion chamber puller so I'm stuck at#2 at the moment until I find a local welder, wonder how much better it will run though.. 150k miles on stock everything, epic grey smoke even when hot from incomplete combustion, and lumpy AF when cold..
![[Image: 20170217_140002.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/20170217_140002.jpg.html)
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Rebuilt injectors and 'recon' prechambers swap weekend is underway:
#1 looked ok, and they got progressively much worse as I worked to #6..
Broke my god dam home made precombustion chamber puller so I'm stuck at#2 at the moment until I find a local welder, wonder how much better it will run though.. 150k miles on stock everything, epic grey smoke even when hot from incomplete combustion, and lumpy AF when cold..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
02-17-2017, 05:10 PM
#91
Few years ago when I starter my build I ran with small 8cm hy35 and let boost too high so EGT melted injector seal washers and only one injector popped normally on 135bar, others where squirting without pop and nozzle tips were clogged so spray pattern was awful. On cold start engine was lumpy few seconds and knocking a little more than normal but it was almost ok when warm, no smoking. I changed nozzles @150bar and washers and I have run the same engine for years and still the same prechambers and engine itself never opened. What is your pump timing?
![[Image: IMG_5199_zpsdd747996.jpg]](http://s236.photobucket.com/user/erx000/media/Mercedes/IMG_5199_zpsdd747996.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_5198_zpsd1f9babe.jpg]](http://s236.photobucket.com/user/erx000/media/Mercedes/IMG_5198_zpsd1f9babe.jpg.html)
This post was last modified: 02-17-2017, 05:20 PM by erx.
Did you pop test injectors before changing nozzles? Were they bad? If prechambers have ball inside in place and no visual defects then they must work.
Few years ago when I starter my build I ran with small 8cm hy35 and let boost too high so EGT melted injector seal washers and only one injector popped normally on 135bar, others where squirting without pop and nozzle tips were clogged so spray pattern was awful. On cold start engine was lumpy few seconds and knocking a little more than normal but it was almost ok when warm, no smoking. I changed nozzles @150bar and washers and I have run the same engine for years and still the same prechambers and engine itself never opened. What is your pump timing?
02-19-2017, 10:06 AM
#92
(02-17-2017, 05:10 PM)erx Did you pop test injectors before changing nozzles? Were they bad? If prechambers have ball inside in place and no visual defects then they must work.
Few years ago when I starter my build I ran with small 8cm hy35 and let boost too high so EGT melted injector seal washers and only one injector popped normally on 135bar, others where squirting without pop and nozzle tips were clogged so spray pattern was awful. On cold start engine was lumpy few seconds and knocking a little more than normal but it was almost ok when warm, no smoking. I changed nozzles @150bar and washers and I have run the same engine for years and still the same prechambers and engine itself never opened. What is your pump timing?
Ok thank you for the info, I got rebuilt injectors for a steal @ £25gbp each so I have not checked mine yet, my friend has a pop tester so I will check my old ones to see spray pattern and pressure to confirm they are bad. Will rebuild them @150bar pop then swap back also.
It is my daily so have to be like this unfortunately. Pump timing not moved from when I first got engine when it ran sweet, so I don't suspect, and it is splined to can't have slipped.
Even when warm it runs lumpy, idles fine after a hard run then deteriorates - Presumably from prechambers and injectors cooling down and then bad fuel atomisation is not hidden anymore by heat evaporating un-atomised fuel.,
Should run fine now but flattened battery from having music playing for 2 days during the swap lol, tbc..
Cheers,
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(02-17-2017, 05:10 PM)erx Did you pop test injectors before changing nozzles? Were they bad? If prechambers have ball inside in place and no visual defects then they must work.
Few years ago when I starter my build I ran with small 8cm hy35 and let boost too high so EGT melted injector seal washers and only one injector popped normally on 135bar, others where squirting without pop and nozzle tips were clogged so spray pattern was awful. On cold start engine was lumpy few seconds and knocking a little more than normal but it was almost ok when warm, no smoking. I changed nozzles @150bar and washers and I have run the same engine for years and still the same prechambers and engine itself never opened. What is your pump timing?
Ok thank you for the info, I got rebuilt injectors for a steal @ £25gbp each so I have not checked mine yet, my friend has a pop tester so I will check my old ones to see spray pattern and pressure to confirm they are bad. Will rebuild them @150bar pop then swap back also.
It is my daily so have to be like this unfortunately. Pump timing not moved from when I first got engine when it ran sweet, so I don't suspect, and it is splined to can't have slipped.
Even when warm it runs lumpy, idles fine after a hard run then deteriorates - Presumably from prechambers and injectors cooling down and then bad fuel atomisation is not hidden anymore by heat evaporating un-atomised fuel.,
Should run fine now but flattened battery from having music playing for 2 days during the swap lol, tbc..
Cheers,
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
02-19-2017, 11:13 AM
#93
(02-19-2017, 10:06 AM)Hario(02-17-2017, 05:10 PM)erx Did you pop test injectors before changing nozzles? Were they bad? If prechambers have ball inside in place and no visual defects then they must work.
Few years ago when I starter my build I ran with small 8cm hy35 and let boost too high so EGT melted injector seal washers and only one injector popped normally on 135bar, others where squirting without pop and nozzle tips were clogged so spray pattern was awful. On cold start engine was lumpy few seconds and knocking a little more than normal but it was almost ok when warm, no smoking. I changed nozzles @150bar and washers and I have run the same engine for years and still the same prechambers and engine itself never opened. What is your pump timing?
Ok thank you for the info, I got rebuilt injectors for a steal @ £25gbp each so I have not checked mine yet, my friend has a pop tester so I will check my old ones to see spray pattern and pressure to confirm they are bad. Will rebuild them @150bar pop then swap back also.
It is my daily so have to be like this unfortunately. Pump timing not moved from when I first got engine when it ran sweet, so I don't suspect, and it is splined to can't have slipped.
Even when warm it runs lumpy, idles fine after a hard run then deteriorates - Presumably from prechambers and injectors cooling down and then bad fuel atomisation is not hidden anymore by heat evaporating un-atomised fuel.,
Should run fine now but flattened battery from having music playing for 2 days during the swap lol, tbc..
Cheers,
Engine worked fine when you first got it and suddenly injectors and prechambers are not working. It doesn't make sense, this kind of things don't happen over night. Also there's no such thing as prechamber cooling down when engine warm and working. I belive you have other problem like maybe air in fuel system, dust in pump delivery valves, if you take off injector lines or any other fuel system parts then you have to keep it extremely clean.
This post was last modified: 02-19-2017, 11:36 AM by erx.
(02-19-2017, 10:06 AM)Hario(02-17-2017, 05:10 PM)erx Did you pop test injectors before changing nozzles? Were they bad? If prechambers have ball inside in place and no visual defects then they must work.
Few years ago when I starter my build I ran with small 8cm hy35 and let boost too high so EGT melted injector seal washers and only one injector popped normally on 135bar, others where squirting without pop and nozzle tips were clogged so spray pattern was awful. On cold start engine was lumpy few seconds and knocking a little more than normal but it was almost ok when warm, no smoking. I changed nozzles @150bar and washers and I have run the same engine for years and still the same prechambers and engine itself never opened. What is your pump timing?
Ok thank you for the info, I got rebuilt injectors for a steal @ £25gbp each so I have not checked mine yet, my friend has a pop tester so I will check my old ones to see spray pattern and pressure to confirm they are bad. Will rebuild them @150bar pop then swap back also.
It is my daily so have to be like this unfortunately. Pump timing not moved from when I first got engine when it ran sweet, so I don't suspect, and it is splined to can't have slipped.
Even when warm it runs lumpy, idles fine after a hard run then deteriorates - Presumably from prechambers and injectors cooling down and then bad fuel atomisation is not hidden anymore by heat evaporating un-atomised fuel.,
Should run fine now but flattened battery from having music playing for 2 days during the swap lol, tbc..
Cheers,
Engine worked fine when you first got it and suddenly injectors and prechambers are not working. It doesn't make sense, this kind of things don't happen over night. Also there's no such thing as prechamber cooling down when engine warm and working. I belive you have other problem like maybe air in fuel system, dust in pump delivery valves, if you take off injector lines or any other fuel system parts then you have to keep it extremely clean.
02-19-2017, 03:57 PM
#94
(02-19-2017, 11:13 AM)erx(02-19-2017, 10:06 AM)Hario(02-17-2017, 05:10 PM)erx Did you pop test injectors before changing nozzles? Were they bad? If prechambers have ball inside in place and no visual defects then they must work.
Few years ago when I starter my build I ran with small 8cm hy35 and let boost too high so EGT melted injector seal washers and only one injector popped normally on 135bar, others where squirting without pop and nozzle tips were clogged so spray pattern was awful. On cold start engine was lumpy few seconds and knocking a little more than normal but it was almost ok when warm, no smoking. I changed nozzles @150bar and washers and I have run the same engine for years and still the same prechambers and engine itself never opened. What is your pump timing?
Ok thank you for the info, I got rebuilt injectors for a steal @ £25gbp each so I have not checked mine yet, my friend has a pop tester so I will check my old ones to see spray pattern and pressure to confirm they are bad. Will rebuild them @150bar pop then swap back also.
It is my daily so have to be like this unfortunately. Pump timing not moved from when I first got engine when it ran sweet, so I don't suspect, and it is splined to can't have slipped.
Even when warm it runs lumpy, idles fine after a hard run then deteriorates - Presumably from prechambers and injectors cooling down and then bad fuel atomisation is not hidden anymore by heat evaporating un-atomised fuel.,
Should run fine now but flattened battery from having music playing for 2 days during the swap lol, tbc..
Cheers,
Engine worked fine when you first got it and suddenly injectors and prechambers are not working. It doesn't make sense, this kind of things don't happen over night. Also there's no such thing as prechamber cooling down when engine warm and working. I belive you have other problem like maybe air in fuel system, dust in pump delivery valves, if you take off injector lines or any other fuel system parts then you have to keep it extremely clean.
No I mean it deteriorated over the 20k miles of my ownership, replaced DV washers and O-rings with no change, so we will see in the morning if it is fixed now,
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(02-19-2017, 11:13 AM)erx(02-19-2017, 10:06 AM)Hario(02-17-2017, 05:10 PM)erx Did you pop test injectors before changing nozzles? Were they bad? If prechambers have ball inside in place and no visual defects then they must work.
Few years ago when I starter my build I ran with small 8cm hy35 and let boost too high so EGT melted injector seal washers and only one injector popped normally on 135bar, others where squirting without pop and nozzle tips were clogged so spray pattern was awful. On cold start engine was lumpy few seconds and knocking a little more than normal but it was almost ok when warm, no smoking. I changed nozzles @150bar and washers and I have run the same engine for years and still the same prechambers and engine itself never opened. What is your pump timing?
Ok thank you for the info, I got rebuilt injectors for a steal @ £25gbp each so I have not checked mine yet, my friend has a pop tester so I will check my old ones to see spray pattern and pressure to confirm they are bad. Will rebuild them @150bar pop then swap back also.
It is my daily so have to be like this unfortunately. Pump timing not moved from when I first got engine when it ran sweet, so I don't suspect, and it is splined to can't have slipped.
Even when warm it runs lumpy, idles fine after a hard run then deteriorates - Presumably from prechambers and injectors cooling down and then bad fuel atomisation is not hidden anymore by heat evaporating un-atomised fuel.,
Should run fine now but flattened battery from having music playing for 2 days during the swap lol, tbc..
Cheers,
Engine worked fine when you first got it and suddenly injectors and prechambers are not working. It doesn't make sense, this kind of things don't happen over night. Also there's no such thing as prechamber cooling down when engine warm and working. I belive you have other problem like maybe air in fuel system, dust in pump delivery valves, if you take off injector lines or any other fuel system parts then you have to keep it extremely clean.
No I mean it deteriorated over the 20k miles of my ownership, replaced DV washers and O-rings with no change, so we will see in the morning if it is fixed now,
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
02-19-2017, 05:02 PM
#95
(02-19-2017, 03:57 PM)HarioLet's hope the best but if it's still lumpy then looking pictures on 1st page my guess is dust in element gallery and scratched elements/valve seats. This hole on picture is going straight to element's gallery and if tiny dust particle is stuck in element or valve seat then it's enough to ruin pump. If it was stored and transported like on picture then more or less stuff fell in for sure. All fittings after fuel filter need extra attention because all that's going in from there is going straight to pump.(02-19-2017, 11:13 AM)erx(02-19-2017, 10:06 AM)Hario Ok thank you for the info, I got rebuilt injectors for a steal @ £25gbp each so I have not checked mine yet, my friend has a pop tester so I will check my old ones to see spray pattern and pressure to confirm they are bad. Will rebuild them @150bar pop then swap back also.
It is my daily so have to be like this unfortunately. Pump timing not moved from when I first got engine when it ran sweet, so I don't suspect, and it is splined to can't have slipped.
Even when warm it runs lumpy, idles fine after a hard run then deteriorates - Presumably from prechambers and injectors cooling down and then bad fuel atomisation is not hidden anymore by heat evaporating un-atomised fuel.,
Should run fine now but flattened battery from having music playing for 2 days during the swap lol, tbc..
Cheers,
Engine worked fine when you first got it and suddenly injectors and prechambers are not working. It doesn't make sense, this kind of things don't happen over night. Also there's no such thing as prechamber cooling down when engine warm and working. I belive you have other problem like maybe air in fuel system, dust in pump delivery valves, if you take off injector lines or any other fuel system parts then you have to keep it extremely clean.
No I mean it deteriorated over the 20k miles of my ownership, replaced DV washers and O-rings with no change, so we will see in the morning if it is fixed now,
![[Image: 606%20fuel%20filter%20top_zpsrysltzqn.jpg]](http://s236.photobucket.com/user/erx000/media/606%20fuel%20filter%20top_zpsrysltzqn.jpg.html)
(02-19-2017, 03:57 PM)HarioLet's hope the best but if it's still lumpy then looking pictures on 1st page my guess is dust in element gallery and scratched elements/valve seats. This hole on picture is going straight to element's gallery and if tiny dust particle is stuck in element or valve seat then it's enough to ruin pump. If it was stored and transported like on picture then more or less stuff fell in for sure. All fittings after fuel filter need extra attention because all that's going in from there is going straight to pump.(02-19-2017, 11:13 AM)erx(02-19-2017, 10:06 AM)Hario Ok thank you for the info, I got rebuilt injectors for a steal @ £25gbp each so I have not checked mine yet, my friend has a pop tester so I will check my old ones to see spray pattern and pressure to confirm they are bad. Will rebuild them @150bar pop then swap back also.
It is my daily so have to be like this unfortunately. Pump timing not moved from when I first got engine when it ran sweet, so I don't suspect, and it is splined to can't have slipped.
Even when warm it runs lumpy, idles fine after a hard run then deteriorates - Presumably from prechambers and injectors cooling down and then bad fuel atomisation is not hidden anymore by heat evaporating un-atomised fuel.,
Should run fine now but flattened battery from having music playing for 2 days during the swap lol, tbc..
Cheers,
Engine worked fine when you first got it and suddenly injectors and prechambers are not working. It doesn't make sense, this kind of things don't happen over night. Also there's no such thing as prechamber cooling down when engine warm and working. I belive you have other problem like maybe air in fuel system, dust in pump delivery valves, if you take off injector lines or any other fuel system parts then you have to keep it extremely clean.
No I mean it deteriorated over the 20k miles of my ownership, replaced DV washers and O-rings with no change, so we will see in the morning if it is fixed now,
02-20-2017, 02:07 PM
#96
As for brakes.
I see some people want to put bigger brakes and retain 16 inch wheels.
I have 330x28mm disks and 4 pot calippers from cl500,and its a bolt on with 4mm spacerd and longer bolts. I also have 20mm wheels spacers with aluminium wheel bolts (20mmlonger). I also have steel wheels with 225x16 tires.
Good heavy brakes and 16 inch wheel.
On polish allegro.pl you can buy this 2x calippers from 60 euro. Search "cl500 zaciski"
I\Personaly I purchased the once with white marker saying cl500 for 170 PLN each. The seller has 3 remaining.
Its not an advert of the seller or quality guarantie, Just look for CL500, good fit with 16 inch steel wheels with 20mm wheel spacers.
This post was last modified: 02-21-2017, 07:06 AM by erio.
1999 S210 Edc pump. 7.5mm dieselmeken element.
HX35W turbo, custom map.
Brakes 330mm 4 piston brembo CL500, bolt on fit. Longer brake lines. 3mm spacers.
260km/h
2.1 boost for now.
16 inch steel wheels with 20mm spacers.
FYI
As for brakes.
I see some people want to put bigger brakes and retain 16 inch wheels.
I have 330x28mm disks and 4 pot calippers from cl500,and its a bolt on with 4mm spacerd and longer bolts. I also have 20mm wheels spacers with aluminium wheel bolts (20mmlonger). I also have steel wheels with 225x16 tires.
Good heavy brakes and 16 inch wheel.
On polish allegro.pl you can buy this 2x calippers from 60 euro. Search "cl500 zaciski"
I\Personaly I purchased the once with white marker saying cl500 for 170 PLN each. The seller has 3 remaining.
Its not an advert of the seller or quality guarantie, Just look for CL500, good fit with 16 inch steel wheels with 20mm wheel spacers.
1999 S210 Edc pump. 7.5mm dieselmeken element.
HX35W turbo, custom map.
Brakes 330mm 4 piston brembo CL500, bolt on fit. Longer brake lines. 3mm spacers.
260km/h
2.1 boost for now.
16 inch steel wheels with 20mm spacers.
02-20-2017, 02:54 PM
#97
(02-20-2017, 02:07 PM)erio FYI
As for brakes.
I see some people want to put bigger brakes and retain 16 inch wheels.
I have 330x28mm disks and 4 pot calippers from cl500,and its a bolt on with 4mm spacerd and longer bolts. I also have 20mm wheels spacers with aluminium wheel bolts (20mmlonger). I also have steel wheels with 225x16 tires.
Good heavy brakes and 16 inch wheel.
On polish allegro.pl you can buy this 2x calippers for 60 euro. Search "cl500 zaciski"
Link that on the facebook page if you're a member there, there will be some good interest in that setup
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(02-20-2017, 02:07 PM)erio FYI
As for brakes.
I see some people want to put bigger brakes and retain 16 inch wheels.
I have 330x28mm disks and 4 pot calippers from cl500,and its a bolt on with 4mm spacerd and longer bolts. I also have 20mm wheels spacers with aluminium wheel bolts (20mmlonger). I also have steel wheels with 225x16 tires.
Good heavy brakes and 16 inch wheel.
On polish allegro.pl you can buy this 2x calippers for 60 euro. Search "cl500 zaciski"
Link that on the facebook page if you're a member there, there will be some good interest in that setup
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
02-21-2017, 04:38 AM
#98
(02-19-2017, 05:02 PM)erx(02-19-2017, 03:57 PM)HarioLet's hope the best but if it's still lumpy then looking pictures on 1st page my guess is dust in element gallery and scratched elements/valve seats. This hole on picture is going straight to element's gallery and if tiny dust particle is stuck in element or valve seat then it's enough to ruin pump. If it was stored and transported like on picture then more or less stuff fell in for sure. All fittings after fuel filter need extra attention because all that's going in from there is going straight to pump.(02-19-2017, 11:13 AM)erx Engine worked fine when you first got it and suddenly injectors and prechambers are not working. It doesn't make sense, this kind of things don't happen over night. Also there's no such thing as prechamber cooling down when engine warm and working. I belive you have other problem like maybe air in fuel system, dust in pump delivery valves, if you take off injector lines or any other fuel system parts then you have to keep it extremely clean.
No I mean it deteriorated over the 20k miles of my ownership, replaced DV washers and O-rings with no change, so we will see in the morning if it is fixed now,
Shit it still runs the same after rebuilt elements fitted, you think it needs a pump swap? I do have a spare EDC pump from a friend so you think I should try that next? As prechambers are good, injectors are good, and the lines are clear, the only bad fuelling will now be coming from the pump..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(02-19-2017, 05:02 PM)erx(02-19-2017, 03:57 PM)HarioLet's hope the best but if it's still lumpy then looking pictures on 1st page my guess is dust in element gallery and scratched elements/valve seats. This hole on picture is going straight to element's gallery and if tiny dust particle is stuck in element or valve seat then it's enough to ruin pump. If it was stored and transported like on picture then more or less stuff fell in for sure. All fittings after fuel filter need extra attention because all that's going in from there is going straight to pump.(02-19-2017, 11:13 AM)erx Engine worked fine when you first got it and suddenly injectors and prechambers are not working. It doesn't make sense, this kind of things don't happen over night. Also there's no such thing as prechamber cooling down when engine warm and working. I belive you have other problem like maybe air in fuel system, dust in pump delivery valves, if you take off injector lines or any other fuel system parts then you have to keep it extremely clean.
No I mean it deteriorated over the 20k miles of my ownership, replaced DV washers and O-rings with no change, so we will see in the morning if it is fixed now,
Shit it still runs the same after rebuilt elements fitted, you think it needs a pump swap? I do have a spare EDC pump from a friend so you think I should try that next? As prechambers are good, injectors are good, and the lines are clear, the only bad fuelling will now be coming from the pump..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
02-21-2017, 05:14 PM
#99
(02-21-2017, 04:38 AM)Hario Shit it still runs the same after rebuilt elements fitted, you think it needs a pump swap? I do have a spare EDC pump from a friend so you think I should try that next? As prechambers are good, injectors are good, and the lines are clear, the only bad fuelling will now be coming from the pump..
If engine mechanical is ok then you can try to change delivery valves first. If it's lumpy on idle then loosen injector lines one by one and try to make clear which cylinders are not working.
(02-21-2017, 04:38 AM)Hario Shit it still runs the same after rebuilt elements fitted, you think it needs a pump swap? I do have a spare EDC pump from a friend so you think I should try that next? As prechambers are good, injectors are good, and the lines are clear, the only bad fuelling will now be coming from the pump..
If engine mechanical is ok then you can try to change delivery valves first. If it's lumpy on idle then loosen injector lines one by one and try to make clear which cylinders are not working.
04-18-2017, 11:14 AM
#100
(02-21-2017, 05:14 PM)erx(02-21-2017, 04:38 AM)Hario Shit it still runs the same after rebuilt elements fitted, you think it needs a pump swap? I do have a spare EDC pump from a friend so you think I should try that next? As prechambers are good, injectors are good, and the lines are clear, the only bad fuelling will now be coming from the pump..
If engine mechanical is ok then you can try to change delivery valves first. If it's lumpy on idle then loosen injector lines one by one and try to make clear which cylinders are not working.
I replaced the DV seals first several months ago and no change. I think you will be right with your diagnosis of an element/plunger fault.
I fitted a spare EDC IP and it had a stocky rack and one seized plunger also! So now I am waiting for the post to give me another IP I just bought. 3rd time lucky...
Thanks for your guidance!!
This post was last modified: 04-18-2017, 11:14 AM by Hario'.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(02-21-2017, 05:14 PM)erx(02-21-2017, 04:38 AM)Hario Shit it still runs the same after rebuilt elements fitted, you think it needs a pump swap? I do have a spare EDC pump from a friend so you think I should try that next? As prechambers are good, injectors are good, and the lines are clear, the only bad fuelling will now be coming from the pump..
If engine mechanical is ok then you can try to change delivery valves first. If it's lumpy on idle then loosen injector lines one by one and try to make clear which cylinders are not working.
I replaced the DV seals first several months ago and no change. I think you will be right with your diagnosis of an element/plunger fault.
I fitted a spare EDC IP and it had a stocky rack and one seized plunger also! So now I am waiting for the post to give me another IP I just bought. 3rd time lucky...
Thanks for your guidance!!
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Users browsing this thread:
24 Guest(s)
24 Guest(s)
Users browsing this thread:
24 Guest(s)
24 Guest(s)