The W201 om606 build log
The W201 om606 build log
and then came back to it and knew i needed to continue on other things,
till i decided what to do about the flywheel.
I had worked with the front end early on but it was not "button up" done.
I had to cut down the intercooler to allow for the 90 elbows to go into the intended spot.
i ground some rings into the aluminium, hopefully to allow them not to blow off.
I dont think they well being that they are 90s and supported by the radiator
support on the back side. If i run into trouble ill tac a ring around the end.
![[Image: IMG_1516_zpsavkhzikh.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1516_zpsavkhzikh.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_1518_zpsvpicbgac.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1518_zpsvpicbgac.jpg.html)
By cutting them down slightly it allowed for the elbows to be to be turned down a bit.
I think it worked out nicely.
![[Image: IMG_1523_zpsj5pvhldx.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1523_zpsj5pvhldx.jpg.html)
After strapping that on i needed to make the front end fit back together.
the elbow was hitting on the bumper opposite the tow connection hole.
so i just matched the opening on both sides.
![[Image: IMG_1529_zpsksawq4zb.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1529_zpsksawq4zb.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_1530_zpsvqqkz2hx.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1530_zpsvqqkz2hx.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_1540_zps1axyecbo.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1540_zps1axyecbo.jpg.html)
i thought about some mesh for the grill but first wanted to see how bad i had to cut the one i had.
![[Image: IMG_1543_zpsnj7rfpnx.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1543_zpsnj7rfpnx.jpg.html)
the black marks are where i needed to cut to clear.
after cutting i was able to button up everything very nicely.
Still surprises me how well all this is fitting together,
and to think there's a 4" thick intercooler tucked in there. And a hole bunch of goodness behind that!
![[Image: IMG_1551_zpspmqi9cks.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1551_zpspmqi9cks.jpg.html)
Im still stuck on whether or not to paint the intercooler..??
![[Image: IMG_1598_zpsxipvvpwg.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1598_zpsxipvvpwg.jpg.html)
Thinking about maybe three 2.5" inch velocity stacks inserted into where the license plate was. Black anodized??
Free up a little more air for the intercooler. So Ol MS. can breathe a little better.
Josh
took a break from the car for a week, about a month or so ago.
and then came back to it and knew i needed to continue on other things,
till i decided what to do about the flywheel.
I had worked with the front end early on but it was not "button up" done.
I had to cut down the intercooler to allow for the 90 elbows to go into the intended spot.
i ground some rings into the aluminium, hopefully to allow them not to blow off.
I dont think they well being that they are 90s and supported by the radiator
support on the back side. If i run into trouble ill tac a ring around the end.
By cutting them down slightly it allowed for the elbows to be to be turned down a bit.
I think it worked out nicely.
After strapping that on i needed to make the front end fit back together.
the elbow was hitting on the bumper opposite the tow connection hole.
so i just matched the opening on both sides.
i thought about some mesh for the grill but first wanted to see how bad i had to cut the one i had.
the black marks are where i needed to cut to clear.
after cutting i was able to button up everything very nicely.
Still surprises me how well all this is fitting together,
and to think there's a 4" thick intercooler tucked in there. And a hole bunch of goodness behind that!
Im still stuck on whether or not to paint the intercooler..??
Thinking about maybe three 2.5" inch velocity stacks inserted into where the license plate was. Black anodized??
Free up a little more air for the intercooler. So Ol MS. can breathe a little better.
Josh
The cable is to short to come around or come down from the top.
I knew i didn't like the cable around the front and cable stop mounted to the fuel heater block off,
It has to be a smooth transition and not tucked away.
I also didn't want to have to make something fit me throttle pedal.
there was some scrap pieces of metal on the bench,
pieces i decided to just start making something with.
I grabbed a bracket from Pick and Pull from a gas engine that had the same ball end size.
the rod that was connected to it i took to.
I started with this and needed to cut a square hole for the throttle stop.
i measure out the square insert and cut it out with the plasma, then filled it straight and clean.
![[Image: IMG_1843_zpsvdku2728.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1843_zpsvdku2728.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_1844_zpsvcsipwya.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1844_zpsvcsipwya.jpg.html)
after fiddling with it for awhile i was able to get it snap in perfectly.
![[Image: IMG_1846_zpsofifteby.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1846_zpsofifteby.jpg.html)
I left this piece as an angle for rigidity because i was going to mount it to the block a little further up.
after i was happy with that..
I started with the throttle arm.
![[Image: IMG_1824_zpsap36osma.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1824_zpsap36osma.jpg.html)
the throw of the injection pump is 3 and 1/2 inches.
I traced out two lines on the bench to allow me to measure if i was with in the throttle pedal throw.
I turned the ball end the other way from its direction originally, once cut.
![[Image: IMG_1826_zpsjfpw6vnw.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1826_zpsjfpw6vnw.jpg.html)
i welded a long bolt to a triangle piece of plate that i cut out,
and another one right in front of the oil filter,seen blow.
This will be were i attach the cable stop angle arm above.
![[Image: IMG_1836_zpsiphigezr.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1836_zpsiphigezr.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_1829_zpsuhjvbysr.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1829_zpsuhjvbysr.jpg.html)
Looks funny because its not tacked on this side of the throttle arm in the above picture
after welding the arm i put a bend in it to bring it a bit closer to the head.
more in line with the throw of the pump.
at this point i was super happy. i have the throttle moving forward from my back motion.
I cut the bolt way down and need to secure it with something?? i think? C -ring? drill it and cotter pin??
The thing is that the throttle arm doesn't work its way off the shortend shaft.
Even after lots of pedal throw.
![[Image: IMG_2022_zpsr60kxaky.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_2022_zpsr60kxaky.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_2021_zpsbizkwwdz.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_2021_zpsbizkwwdz.jpg.html)
in the end, Cant believe i made something work so well with just a few pieces of scrape medal.
Anyhow enough for the night.
Let me know what you guys think.
Josh
The throttle was something i couldn't figure out.
The cable is to short to come around or come down from the top.
I knew i didn't like the cable around the front and cable stop mounted to the fuel heater block off,
It has to be a smooth transition and not tucked away.
I also didn't want to have to make something fit me throttle pedal.
there was some scrap pieces of metal on the bench,
pieces i decided to just start making something with.
I grabbed a bracket from Pick and Pull from a gas engine that had the same ball end size.
the rod that was connected to it i took to.
I started with this and needed to cut a square hole for the throttle stop.
i measure out the square insert and cut it out with the plasma, then filled it straight and clean.
after fiddling with it for awhile i was able to get it snap in perfectly.
I left this piece as an angle for rigidity because i was going to mount it to the block a little further up.
after i was happy with that..
I started with the throttle arm.
the throw of the injection pump is 3 and 1/2 inches.
I traced out two lines on the bench to allow me to measure if i was with in the throttle pedal throw.
I turned the ball end the other way from its direction originally, once cut.
i welded a long bolt to a triangle piece of plate that i cut out,
and another one right in front of the oil filter,seen blow.
This will be were i attach the cable stop angle arm above.
Looks funny because its not tacked on this side of the throttle arm in the above picture
after welding the arm i put a bend in it to bring it a bit closer to the head.
more in line with the throw of the pump.
at this point i was super happy. i have the throttle moving forward from my back motion.
I cut the bolt way down and need to secure it with something?? i think? C -ring? drill it and cotter pin??
The thing is that the throttle arm doesn't work its way off the shortend shaft.
Even after lots of pedal throw.
in the end, Cant believe i made something work so well with just a few pieces of scrape medal.
Anyhow enough for the night.
Let me know what you guys think.
Josh
I would have to cut this manifold way down to get it to fit or make a new one.
I am not going to cut a perfectly good manifold. so i will need to make another one.
I decided for the time being, to get this car done and on the road I will go with a t3 flanged turbo.
Just figure i dont need the added complexity during trials of the car. Also it will give me a project to work on once the car is running and driving.
![[Image: image_zpsyuf2v8lj.jpeg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/image_zpsyuf2v8lj.jpeg.html)
I decided to go with the HE351cw which is the waste gated version of the variable geometry.
It will allow me to keep all my boost piping the same between the two.
The 351Cw is a T3 mount which allowed the the turbo to drop the needed inchs to clear!!
Kinda...
![[Image: IMG_1869_zpsa9nautfr.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1869_zpsa9nautfr.jpg.html)
Problem was that i need to clock the compressor to the desired location and this posed a problem with the waste gate bracket.
The turbo in its stock location allowed the hood to close but it was touch. bad, All the way across.
So i needed to make a waste gate mount.
![[Image: IMG_1871_zps1vta21qg.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1871_zps1vta21qg.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_1873_zpsvnitalqx.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1873_zpsvnitalqx.jpg.html)
in order to turn the compressor housing i decided that mounting it off the flange will be the easiest. Well see..
![[Image: IMG_1881_zpscckew5rc.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1881_zpscckew5rc.jpg.html)
I made some measurement and cut the rod down and then re-threaded it.
![[Image: IMG_1882_zpsy8qzrmf7.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1882_zpsy8qzrmf7.jpg.html)
once it was threaded I made a template and cut it out with the plasma.
![[Image: IMG_1885_zps8f2ls7uo.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1885_zps8f2ls7uo.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_1938_zpszxiylbex.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1938_zpszxiylbex.jpg.html)
after cutting out the plate i decided to drill some holes in it for some additional cooling. I will also put a turbo blanket on for heat management. I also will ad a piece of manifold rap between the waste gate and the mount.
![[Image: IMG_1936_zpsutwhk4zd.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1936_zpsutwhk4zd.jpg.html)
I ran the manifold pressure gauge and that will tie in right next to the EGT probe here on the turbo.
and be connected with a copper tube to dissipate heat,
![[Image: IMG_1944_zpsfzykyemp.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1944_zpsfzykyemp.jpg.html)
For those that are looking.
![[Image: IMG_1967_zpsgkc41o9i.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1967_zpsgkc41o9i.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_1969_zpsukn32prn.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1969_zpsukn32prn.jpg.html)
I purchased the dee works plug for the solenoid hole on the turbo and it works great. good fit.
cheers
josh
The he351ve is still the plan, but the turbo is a T4i flange and requires a dual plate adapter to adapt it to the T3 flange i have on my manifold. this is causing the turbo to ride to high and not allow for the hood to close.
I would have to cut this manifold way down to get it to fit or make a new one.
I am not going to cut a perfectly good manifold. so i will need to make another one.
I decided for the time being, to get this car done and on the road I will go with a t3 flanged turbo.
Just figure i dont need the added complexity during trials of the car. Also it will give me a project to work on once the car is running and driving.
I decided to go with the HE351cw which is the waste gated version of the variable geometry.
It will allow me to keep all my boost piping the same between the two.
The 351Cw is a T3 mount which allowed the the turbo to drop the needed inchs to clear!!
Kinda...
Problem was that i need to clock the compressor to the desired location and this posed a problem with the waste gate bracket.
The turbo in its stock location allowed the hood to close but it was touch. bad, All the way across.
So i needed to make a waste gate mount.
in order to turn the compressor housing i decided that mounting it off the flange will be the easiest. Well see..
I made some measurement and cut the rod down and then re-threaded it.
once it was threaded I made a template and cut it out with the plasma.
after cutting out the plate i decided to drill some holes in it for some additional cooling. I will also put a turbo blanket on for heat management. I also will ad a piece of manifold rap between the waste gate and the mount.
I ran the manifold pressure gauge and that will tie in right next to the EGT probe here on the turbo.
and be connected with a copper tube to dissipate heat,
For those that are looking.
I purchased the dee works plug for the solenoid hole on the turbo and it works great. good fit.
cheers
josh
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
03-16-2017, 11:25 AM #54This is insane, I can't wait to see it running!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Its a 12" wide x 20" tall x 4" thick. I am not sure what model number it is but i will try and look into that for you.
I do know it was originally part of a kit for a new Camaro. I found it on Craigslist.
fits a lot better now this way. there is equal room between the turbo and hood as there is the engine and hood. about 1.5" (36mm)
![[Image: IMG_1902_zpsykoqwtgg.jpg]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1902_zpsykoqwtgg.jpg.html)
Josh
Turbo
Its a 12" wide x 20" tall x 4" thick. I am not sure what model number it is but i will try and look into that for you.
I do know it was originally part of a kit for a new Camaro. I found it on Craigslist.
fits a lot better now this way. there is equal room between the turbo and hood as there is the engine and hood. about 1.5" (36mm)
Josh
![[Image: new_zpsfc3m6rpq.png]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/new_zpsfc3m6rpq.png.html)
Also I have been thinking of using the adjustable overflow valve bolt for the cummins,
instead of the stock bango bolt.
Any of you worked with this or something along the lines?
![[Image: IMG_1948_zpsfqmvjub1.png]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/IMG_1948_zpsfqmvjub1.png.html)
This is the intercooler from AGP. I have an older version. They have redesigned the end casting to allow for another 4" of core width.
Also I have been thinking of using the adjustable overflow valve bolt for the cummins,
instead of the stock bango bolt.
Any of you worked with this or something along the lines?
Stock on the left is 34mm shoulder to tip, aftermarket one I got on the right was 24mm shoulder to tip (normal m12 banjo size) ....
Let us know if you find a 34mm one! I guess it is probably the size for double banjos, but with only one set of holes.
![[Image: IP%20return%20banjo.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/IP%20return%20banjo.jpg.html)
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Tried exactly that this weekend. Won't work, stock banjo is 10mm longer than normal.
Stock on the left is 34mm shoulder to tip, aftermarket one I got on the right was 24mm shoulder to tip (normal m12 banjo size) ....
Let us know if you find a 34mm one! I guess it is probably the size for double banjos, but with only one set of holes.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
I think his site is www.elbe.ee You can ask him to see if that banjo will work with his adapted.
![[Image: Capture_zpspwc6g9fh.png]](http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Om606w201/media/Capture_zpspwc6g9fh.png.html)
Any comments Henrik on whether this will work or not for Hario?
JJ
Actually i believe you can use hents99 Piece.
I think his site is www.elbe.ee You can ask him to see if that banjo will work with his adapted.
Any comments Henrik on whether this will work or not for Hario?
JJ
(03-27-2017, 02:50 PM)Om606w201 Actually i believe you can use hents99 Piece.
I think his site is www.elbe.ee You can ask him to see if that banjo will work with his adapted.
Any comments Henrik on whether this will work or not for Hario?
JJ
I have exactly that on the feed, I thought we were talking about return outlet banjo, and swap to 1.5bar relief valve, to increase IP gallery pressure. Anyway I'm having this made to suit (EDC return/outlet banjo adapter).
![[Image: IP%20overflow%20banjo%20adapter_1.jpg]](http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Mercedes_Power/media/IP%20overflow%20banjo%20adapter_1.jpg.html)
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(03-27-2017, 02:50 PM)Om606w201 Actually i believe you can use hents99 Piece.
I think his site is www.elbe.ee You can ask him to see if that banjo will work with his adapted.
Any comments Henrik on whether this will work or not for Hario?
JJ
I have exactly that on the feed, I thought we were talking about return outlet banjo, and swap to 1.5bar relief valve, to increase IP gallery pressure. Anyway I'm having this made to suit (EDC return/outlet banjo adapter).
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Lovely build btw. Still can't figure out how you've managed to use the 606 arms and have enough space for the rad and intercooler? I had to move the engine further back to allow just about enough room, and my intercooler is at least 1" less thick than yours!
Harry doesn't that require a chamfer on the sealing faces?
Lovely build btw. Still can't figure out how you've managed to use the 606 arms and have enough space for the rad and intercooler? I had to move the engine further back to allow just about enough room, and my intercooler is at least 1" less thick than yours!
USMCRAIDER
10-21-2017, 11:07 AM #66Awesome build! I am slowly in process of fitting my on606 in my 1992 190e. The pictures no longer show up for me. You ended up using stock on606 mounts to rest on hockey pucks then basically a bolt going through all of it into the crossmenber? I hope someone can confirm there is a guy selling mounts on eBay for 6cyl into 190. And states they are replica of factory 6cyl 190 mounts and will alow om606 to fit on factory cushions.
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