DSL1 controller
DSL1 controller
(02-01-2016, 05:15 AM)Hario(01-31-2016, 06:24 PM)maxypriest Can you run the edc pump without the stop valve on the side with this unit?
The stop solenoid just needs 12v switched live to open.
Yes, but you can also remove the stop solenoid. That's what I did on my car because I did not have the right filter housing to connect the two extra lines, nor did I have the electrical connector to connect it.
I just turned an adapter on the lathe to replace it. There's no harm in keeping the solenoid if it's already plumbed in.
![[Image: ntX4QRI.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/ntX4QRI.jpg)
![[Image: jJUWmT1.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/jJUWmT1.jpg)
Baldur Gislason
(02-01-2016, 05:15 AM)Hario(01-31-2016, 06:24 PM)maxypriest Can you run the edc pump without the stop valve on the side with this unit?
The stop solenoid just needs 12v switched live to open.
Yes, but you can also remove the stop solenoid. That's what I did on my car because I did not have the right filter housing to connect the two extra lines, nor did I have the electrical connector to connect it.
I just turned an adapter on the lathe to replace it. There's no harm in keeping the solenoid if it's already plumbed in.
Baldur Gislason
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
maxypriest
02-01-2016, 11:25 AM #52Perfect. Thanks.
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
50harleyrider
02-04-2016, 01:00 PM #53(02-01-2016, 11:25 AM)maxypriest Perfect. Thanks.
Got some photos?
I have been using the ECU on my daily driver for 3 months (in the software business they call this eating your own dog food), and I've been pleased with the result myself. The only observation I made was that the control loops for idle and rack position favoured different parameters on a cold engine versus a warmed up engine.
As a result, the latest firmware has those parameters configurable based on coolant temperature.
Baldur Gislason
I believe none of the units I have exported have been fitted to engines yet, as I have not received any feedback from those customers. I have some customers running the controllers locally and as far as I know they are not experiencing anything other than good performance and trouble free operation.
I have been using the ECU on my daily driver for 3 months (in the software business they call this eating your own dog food), and I've been pleased with the result myself. The only observation I made was that the control loops for idle and rack position favoured different parameters on a cold engine versus a warmed up engine.
As a result, the latest firmware has those parameters configurable based on coolant temperature.
Baldur Gislason
I also got my own car fixed with a new engine and wired some units to other local cars so I was able to resume development of the firmware.
I've released firmware version 1.7, and what this version brings new is working and thoroughly tested cruise control, general purpose PWM outputs (I used this to mimick the vacuum control valve to operate a 722.3 transmission), configurable analog input filtering and some minor changes to the CAN bus custom broadcast packet constructor.
Here's a harness I made for running an OM662 engine, not including the pump wiring which is separate. This one has wiring for MAP sensor, accelerator pedal sensor, engine speed sensor, coolant temperature sensor and boost control solenoid, and includes a relay to power the unit directly from the battery.
![[Image: 2016_08_06_17_30_57.sized.jpg]](http://www.foo.is/albums/misc/2016_08_06_17_30_57.sized.jpg)
![[Image: 2016_08_07_23_31_49.sized.jpg]](http://www.foo.is/albums/misc/2016_08_07_23_31_49.sized.jpg)
Baldur Gislason
Time for an update. I've heard from a number of customers who have gotten their cars driving and none have reported any issues.
I also got my own car fixed with a new engine and wired some units to other local cars so I was able to resume development of the firmware.
I've released firmware version 1.7, and what this version brings new is working and thoroughly tested cruise control, general purpose PWM outputs (I used this to mimick the vacuum control valve to operate a 722.3 transmission), configurable analog input filtering and some minor changes to the CAN bus custom broadcast packet constructor.
Here's a harness I made for running an OM662 engine, not including the pump wiring which is separate. This one has wiring for MAP sensor, accelerator pedal sensor, engine speed sensor, coolant temperature sensor and boost control solenoid, and includes a relay to power the unit directly from the battery.
Baldur Gislason
I just finished bolting my engine onto the E4OD and it's in the truck waiting for me to fab motor mounts and check final clearances. Then onto the ecu wiring. Don't give up on me. Do you have a good source for wiring shrink wrap you show in your photo? I'd like to use it inside the split hard plastic looms I'm using. One can't protect wiring enough inside a hot engine compartment.
50harleyrider
08-12-2016, 05:18 AM #57Hi Baldur,
I just finished bolting my engine onto the E4OD and it's in the truck waiting for me to fab motor mounts and check final clearances. Then onto the ecu wiring. Don't give up on me. Do you have a good source for wiring shrink wrap you show in your photo? I'd like to use it inside the split hard plastic looms I'm using. One can't protect wiring enough inside a hot engine compartment.
Pro Wire USA specialises in wiring supplies, professional grade stuff but some of it can be a bit pricey.
Aircraft Spruce also has a selection of wiring supplies, most of them at a fair price.
You can probably get suitable stuff from any electrical/electronics supplier.
Heat shrink tubing is excellent for abrasion and vibration resistance. Use soft flexible stuff (non adhesive lined) to cover the length of the wiring. Adhesive lined tubing is good for covering branch points and ends near connectors. If you need to splice wires inside the harness, the best method is to use duraseal/permaseal type crimp splices which come with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing for a sealed and strain relieved splice. Avoid soldering inside the wiring harness as it makes the wires brittle and prone to break in an environment where there's vibration present.
Baldur Gislason
The shrink wrap I purchased locally, but I know of two companies on your side of the pond that have a good selection of quality wiring supplies.
Pro Wire USA specialises in wiring supplies, professional grade stuff but some of it can be a bit pricey.
Aircraft Spruce also has a selection of wiring supplies, most of them at a fair price.
You can probably get suitable stuff from any electrical/electronics supplier.
Heat shrink tubing is excellent for abrasion and vibration resistance. Use soft flexible stuff (non adhesive lined) to cover the length of the wiring. Adhesive lined tubing is good for covering branch points and ends near connectors. If you need to splice wires inside the harness, the best method is to use duraseal/permaseal type crimp splices which come with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing for a sealed and strain relieved splice. Avoid soldering inside the wiring harness as it makes the wires brittle and prone to break in an environment where there's vibration present.
Baldur Gislason
raysorenson
08-12-2016, 12:27 PM #59I get mine from Zoro. I like the large diameter non-adhesive stuff to cover the entire loom. Looks tidy. The adhesive stuff is good for under hood use since it seals splices from fluids and the elements.
I don't have om606 6 lug/notch flywheel, so I have to use hall effect sensor from damper TDC stud and just have to choose this option in sensor input menu? If I have Ole's 722.6 controller also, then can I use one TPS sensor for both units? I read that they can be connected to each other with canbus, is there more information about this? About reducing engine power during shifts and sharing sensors.
If you have Ole's controller you can use one TPS for both units but for signal integrity I would recommend sharing sensors over the CAN bus rather than split wiring. I need to add a section covering this to the documentation.
For the looms, I do not currently have a good source of connectors for the pedal position sensors, but I could supply a loom with flying leads if you gave me approximate lengths for your application. For such special order items you'd be best off getting in touch by e-mail to discuss your needs and we'll figure out how I can fulfill them and at what cost.
Baldur Gislason
Regarding the TDC stud, I've had even better results using the starter ring gear for engine speed sensing (and some of these engines have provisions for a sensor there from the factory). Only getting speed information once per engine revolution is not optimal for low speed drivability with a manual transmission. For an automatic it doesn't matter at all.
If you have Ole's controller you can use one TPS for both units but for signal integrity I would recommend sharing sensors over the CAN bus rather than split wiring. I need to add a section covering this to the documentation.
For the looms, I do not currently have a good source of connectors for the pedal position sensors, but I could supply a loom with flying leads if you gave me approximate lengths for your application. For such special order items you'd be best off getting in touch by e-mail to discuss your needs and we'll figure out how I can fulfill them and at what cost.
Baldur Gislason
I have to contact Ole about CAN bus connecting because my controller is bought year ago. I belive I need to upgrade software and I hope that older modules support this option.
With Ole controller I have MAP sensor for 3bar boost, do they share this also with CAN bus? And what happens when I have over 3 bar boost?
At the moment I have 722.6 Ole controller and Dieselmeken M pump, flywheel/flexplate is self made so no 6 studs but stock starter ring gear sensor is used for tacho, so can I split sensor wiring between tacho and DSL1? Sensor is with angled tip and locates in oil sump where it's from factory.
I have to contact Ole about CAN bus connecting because my controller is bought year ago. I belive I need to upgrade software and I hope that older modules support this option.
With Ole controller I have MAP sensor for 3bar boost, do they share this also with CAN bus? And what happens when I have over 3 bar boost?
The DSL1 controller needs a MAP sensor wired directly but it is able to transmit that data over the CAN bus. If you exceed the range of the MAP sensor you just won't be able to use the boost control functionality or log how much boost you were actually getting. It's better to get a 5 bar or 7 bar MAP sensor in that case.
Baldur Gislason
You should be able to share them, but it may be necessary to desolder a pull-up resistor from the DSL1 board for the sensor to output a signal strong enough during cranking. You will also need to know the number of teeth on your ring gear to configure it.
The DSL1 controller needs a MAP sensor wired directly but it is able to transmit that data over the CAN bus. If you exceed the range of the MAP sensor you just won't be able to use the boost control functionality or log how much boost you were actually getting. It's better to get a 5 bar or 7 bar MAP sensor in that case.
Baldur Gislason
(09-04-2016, 05:55 AM)baldur You should be able to share them, but it may be necessary to desolder a pull-up resistor from the DSL1 board for the sensor to output a signal strong enough during cranking. You will also need to know the number of teeth on your ring gear to configure it.
The DSL1 controller needs a MAP sensor wired directly but it is able to transmit that data over the CAN bus. If you exceed the range of the MAP sensor you just won't be able to use the boost control functionality or log how much boost you were actually getting. It's better to get a 5 bar or 7 bar MAP sensor in that case.
I asked Ole and he said that CAN bus is working only with new OLED graphics display, so I have to order it from him. He also said that data is transmitted only one way from DSL1 to Ole's 722.6 controller, so I need to connect all sensors to DSL1 and then CAN bus is sending data to Ole's controller.
(09-04-2016, 05:55 AM)baldur You should be able to share them, but it may be necessary to desolder a pull-up resistor from the DSL1 board for the sensor to output a signal strong enough during cranking. You will also need to know the number of teeth on your ring gear to configure it.
The DSL1 controller needs a MAP sensor wired directly but it is able to transmit that data over the CAN bus. If you exceed the range of the MAP sensor you just won't be able to use the boost control functionality or log how much boost you were actually getting. It's better to get a 5 bar or 7 bar MAP sensor in that case.
I asked Ole and he said that CAN bus is working only with new OLED graphics display, so I have to order it from him. He also said that data is transmitted only one way from DSL1 to Ole's 722.6 controller, so I need to connect all sensors to DSL1 and then CAN bus is sending data to Ole's controller.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06nLARTUltc
Baldur Gislason
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om606 into Defender 110
Hi, how much of the original loom from the e300 is required? i'm taking the engine and box out currently. gonna try and strip the whole loom cause i want the EDC pump but if the DSL1 is a option id like to now whats really required.
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om606 into Defender 110
i'll run mine standard for a while so will the DSL1 be able to control the turbo actuator or will i have to change it to a transit style one?
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om606 into Defender 110
ok so TPS and Map switch. Is the map switch already on the engine?
i'll run mine standard for a while so will the DSL1 be able to control the turbo actuator or will i have to change it to a transit style one?
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om606 into Defender 110
![[Image: logview.png]](http://controls.is/calibrator/logview.png)
![[Image: scatter.png]](http://controls.is/calibrator/scatter.png)
![[Image: histogram.png]](http://controls.is/calibrator/histogram.png)
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www.elbe.ee - MB performance parts.
Yesterday another W463 started to run with OM606 and with DSL1 ecu. Nice and easy.
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www.elbe.ee - MB performance parts.
Combine that with Baldur's backup via email, I can't recommend it enough! I'm yet to get serious mileage under my belt, but I've done a few full power runs and it is factory quality smooth, using the base tune that Baldur provides, and a completely stock engine, so the potential is very exciting.
Mat
Just to add my 2c, I have Baldur's DSL1 up and running in my Defender 110, and it is an amazing piece of kit. The software that Baldur provides is very intuitive, and once I had the loom made up, I was able to test and calibrate everything and start in about an hour of first turning the ignition on.
Combine that with Baldur's backup via email, I can't recommend it enough! I'm yet to get serious mileage under my belt, but I've done a few full power runs and it is factory quality smooth, using the base tune that Baldur provides, and a completely stock engine, so the potential is very exciting.
Mat
From the release notes:
- Reformed idle control strategy for a smoother and more reliable return to idle.
- Added option of idle-up inputs.
- Cruise control engagement made smoother.
- CAN receive inputs now have configurable default values and timeouts.
- There are now 8 general purpose logic conditions in place of 4.
- After start glow timing no longer limited to 25.5 seconds.
- Vehicle speed can now be taken from CAN bus.
- Internal data logging now triggerable by a logic condition or manually instead of only engine speed.
- Internal data logging now has options to limit log file size for more convenient handling of long logs.
- Internal data logging now has burstable log rate to capture extra detail when deemed interesting.
- General purpose fuel limiters added, enabling engine torque reduction on demand or when sensor values deem necessary.
- Password protection of controllers now possible to prevent unauthorized changes. Can optionally allow access to data logging and diagnostics functions without password.
Baldur Gislason
I have made a new firmware release, with lots of new features and improvements.
From the release notes:
- Reformed idle control strategy for a smoother and more reliable return to idle.
- Added option of idle-up inputs.
- Cruise control engagement made smoother.
- CAN receive inputs now have configurable default values and timeouts.
- There are now 8 general purpose logic conditions in place of 4.
- After start glow timing no longer limited to 25.5 seconds.
- Vehicle speed can now be taken from CAN bus.
- Internal data logging now triggerable by a logic condition or manually instead of only engine speed.
- Internal data logging now has options to limit log file size for more convenient handling of long logs.
- Internal data logging now has burstable log rate to capture extra detail when deemed interesting.
- General purpose fuel limiters added, enabling engine torque reduction on demand or when sensor values deem necessary.
- Password protection of controllers now possible to prevent unauthorized changes. Can optionally allow access to data logging and diagnostics functions without password.
Baldur Gislason
50harleyrider
03-15-2017, 08:29 AM #79Should I go ahead and download and install this 1.12 firmware? Anything we should be aware of doing the install? Send me an email if you prefer.
Baldur
Baldur Gislason
For most users the only significant change is the idle strategy which now has programmable control over return to idle behaveour. You should probably download this and install it eventually but until you have the car ready to drive there's really no need to apply the upgrade.
Baldur
Baldur Gislason
I've visited Baldur's shop in person, he's got some wild stuff brewing. Definitely knows what he's doing.
(01-14-2016, 09:19 AM)CRD4x4 Baldur, I have a friend (and fellow STD member) that'll be near you the 2nd week of February. You think I could have him pick up a 606a controller in person? Hopefully you'll also help me talk him out of driving the ring road in February in a rental Jeep with his wife. That's gonna be brutal!
PM me price please.
Hey! The Eastfjords were a bit hairy (1" ice, 60mph crosswind, and ranbow unicorn brand tyres) but we made it
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
03-16-2017, 11:15 AM #81To anyone hesitating:
I've visited Baldur's shop in person, he's got some wild stuff brewing. Definitely knows what he's doing.
(01-14-2016, 09:19 AM)CRD4x4 Baldur, I have a friend (and fellow STD member) that'll be near you the 2nd week of February. You think I could have him pick up a 606a controller in person? Hopefully you'll also help me talk him out of driving the ring road in February in a rental Jeep with his wife. That's gonna be brutal!
PM me price please.
Hey! The Eastfjords were a bit hairy (1" ice, 60mph crosswind, and ranbow unicorn brand tyres) but we made it
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
hummermaniac88
04-02-2017, 10:27 PM #82Anyone have this paired up with a HX40W? I can't seem to see if someone covered if this works with a VGT/VNT holset?
(04-02-2017, 10:27 PM)hummermaniac88 Anyone have this paired up with a HX40W? I can't seem to see if someone covered if this works with a VGT/VNT holset?
I am not aware of anyone using that combination at the moment, however according to what information I have seen about this turbo it can be supported by the current firmware as the CAN bus implementation is extremely versatile, you can configure a CAN output that sends boost control commands to a specified CAN address in a specified format.
Baldur Gislason
(04-02-2017, 10:27 PM)hummermaniac88 Anyone have this paired up with a HX40W? I can't seem to see if someone covered if this works with a VGT/VNT holset?
I am not aware of anyone using that combination at the moment, however according to what information I have seen about this turbo it can be supported by the current firmware as the CAN bus implementation is extremely versatile, you can configure a CAN output that sends boost control commands to a specified CAN address in a specified format.
Baldur Gislason
I have another one for you. Do i need the stock ECU with the dsl1 controller like a piggy back?
hummermaniac88
04-03-2017, 09:08 PM #84Thanks for always helping with my beginner questions!
I have another one for you. Do i need the stock ECU with the dsl1 controller like a piggy back?
hummermaniac88
04-10-2017, 06:21 AM #86Does this come with a prefabricated harness? Is it possible to have it pre-tuned for a certain CC and boost, so all it'll need is fine tuning?
To view them, I had to download the BG Configurator software. But I will need it in the near future anyway, so that is okay.. And..
I am impressed!!! It looks fascinating. Extremely detailed.. looks user friendly, has very many options.. My compliments!
I will be buying a DSL1 soon, so the software is a good start to have a look through it..
Evgeniy1987
04-13-2017, 07:47 AM #88Yesterday, a friend sent me his configuration file for 8mm pump .. and a log.
To view them, I had to download the BG Configurator software. But I will need it in the near future anyway, so that is okay.. And..
I am impressed!!! It looks fascinating. Extremely detailed.. looks user friendly, has very many options.. My compliments!
I will be buying a DSL1 soon, so the software is a good start to have a look through it..
50harleyrider
04-13-2017, 03:21 PM #89Bump the DSL1. Get one! My f150 606 swap is up and running. Couldn't be happier! It's awesome how much more low end grunt it has over the crap 5.4 and I haven't even begun to play with tuning. The initial tune Baldur put in it is impressive with no engine mods other than EGR delete and a substantial intercooler. The oe kkk turbo zooms up to 1.5 bar quickly and lag free. I also have to bump the Baumann USSHIFT tcu. It works seamlessly with the 606 and the E4OD.
(08-19-2017, 02:03 AM)Mr.Emo Awesome. I will be placing an order as soon as I have the chance. Is it easy to adjust maps etc? I've never done that before.
Yes it's reasonably easy, and can be done with the engine running so you can see what difference the changes make immediately.
Baldur Gislason
Baldur Gislason
I have released new firmware, as I revisited the water/methanol system I used to run on my old car and fitted that to my new car. The new firmware now includes the ability to control water/methanol injection without the need for a separate control box.
Baldur Gislason
(09-26-2017, 12:55 AM)Mr.Emo Say whaat. How?I have a water/meth kit from devils with a 30psi progressive kit.
The controller can switch the pump on using a relay and it can also use a solid state relay to vary the pump speed based on engine speed and throttle position or MAP. So it basically does what a progressive controller shipped with these kits does but with more options.
Baldur Gislason
(09-26-2017, 12:55 AM)Mr.Emo Say whaat. How?
The controller can switch the pump on using a relay and it can also use a solid state relay to vary the pump speed based on engine speed and throttle position or MAP. So it basically does what a progressive controller shipped with these kits does but with more options.
Baldur Gislason
Baldur Gislason
Oh, and I should add, the latest configuration now also includes a CAN preset that makes a W210 instrument cluster work (speedometer, tachometer, temperature gauge). May be an attractive option for a retrofit in those old cars that have cable operated speedometers but no place to connect the cable.
Baldur Gislason
is there an IP rating for the controller.
is it safe to place in engine bay or is it best to place inside vehicle
thanks
CutWeldDrive
09-26-2017, 09:49 AM #99hi Baldur,
is there an IP rating for the controller.
is it safe to place in engine bay or is it best to place inside vehicle
thanks
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