White Lightening's Diesel Conversion - A 1994 T100 OM606 swap
White Lightening's Diesel Conversion - A 1994 T100 OM606 swap
The Truck for starters is a 1994 Toyota T100 4x4 thats been in the family since 1995, so it's got some sentimental value to it. The 3.0 in it never let me down except any time I had to go up a hill with something in the back. Here is a picture in it's pre-swap state. It's got 1.25" Ball joint spacers up front, Bilstein 5100 shocks all around, a Kazuma LSD, and sits on BFG AT 31" Tires (almost as stock as they come at this age).
![[Image: 20170122_124951_zpsgpnm5bn6.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/20170122_124951_zpsgpnm5bn6.jpg.html)
Here is the new engine/trans coming home (in my dads Tundra). It came from a wrecked 99 Mercedes 300d. It came with all ecus, exhaust, intercooler, and any wiring I could cut out of it before he hauled it to the crusher. The plan from the start is to sell the Mercedes trans and make an adapter plate to keep the original Toyota R150. For fuel control I've ordered and received Baldurs ecu. I highly considered going with the mechanical pump route, but decided against it. I've done a fair amount of gas fuel injection tuning on another car of mine and figured it would be fun to do the same on this.
![[Image: 20170103_191223_zpshwbrzv6v.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/20170103_191223_zpshwbrzv6v.jpg.html)
Did a little cleanup on the engine, replaced the plastic fuel lines, cleaned the EGR gunked up intake and replaced some gaskets that looked to be leaking. You may notice the power steering pump is off in the picture. The pulley was damaged in the wreck so i've had to order a new one. Additionally I'm planning to mount the original toyota pump as the mercedes pump runs a higher outlet pressure (~1800psi vs 1400).
![[Image: 20170121_155209_zpskfzuolzv.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/20170121_155209_zpskfzuolzv.jpg.html)
![[Image: 20170121_174850_zpsfuf7p9k7.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/20170121_174850_zpsfuf7p9k7.jpg.html)
Started the Teardown on the truck, took lots of angular and positional measurements referenced to the frame so I can get things back at the right angles at least. It's looking like i'll need to slide the trans back about 4" to fit this behemoth behind the front core support. Before I did any teardown I put it on some scales with 3/4 tank of gas to get a weight distribution (man this thing is light!). I wanted to take too see how much the new engine changes it. Currently the truck has very good on road handling, which I assume is because it's so light, and the majority of the engine is behind the front axle. The OM606 is probably about 100 lbs heavier than the 3.0 coming out from numbers I've seen online (om606 ~490, 3.0 ~375)
![[Image: Initial%20Weight%20Full%20tank%20-%205%2...m4rjof.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/Initial%20Weight%20Full%20tank%20-%205%20gallons_zpsw7m4rjof.jpg.html)
![[Image: 20170122_111554_zpsfafb5otc.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/20170122_111554_zpsfafb5otc.jpg.html)
"here is your new home transmission"
![[Image: 20170128_173552_zpsddowub99.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/20170128_173552_zpsddowub99.jpg.html)
Started work on the adapter plate. Fortunately I was able to find dowel to crank centerline patterns for the OM606 and the toyota R150 posted online, which saved me a ton of time. The om606 came from this forum...forget the username, will update later, but THANK YOU! I sketched them out in CAD and then printed them on paper to fit check them.
![[Image: 20170204_204240_zpsa1wkd7ll.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/20170204_204240_zpsa1wkd7ll.jpg.html)
R150 pattern, just getting the actual vertical line in there
![[Image: 20170210_081715_zpsf3pdewfh.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/20170210_081715_zpsf3pdewfh.jpg.html)
X Double Dot
03-05-2017, 02:57 PM #1So after many years of talking about, lurking through forums, and frankly annoying even myself with all talk and no action, I finally bit the bullet and started the swap process. I knew I wanted a diesel engine in the truck, partially for mileage, partially for cool/sound factor, so everyone (including me) whose thinking "An LS swap would have been easier and more power" can keep those comments for another thread ;-) . I landed on the Mercedes OM606 due to availability (found a wrecked donor vehicle local), power, reputation for robustness, and also the fact that it's an I-6, which should mean it'll be a lot smoother than the rattley 4 cylinder diesel options.
The Truck for starters is a 1994 Toyota T100 4x4 thats been in the family since 1995, so it's got some sentimental value to it. The 3.0 in it never let me down except any time I had to go up a hill with something in the back. Here is a picture in it's pre-swap state. It's got 1.25" Ball joint spacers up front, Bilstein 5100 shocks all around, a Kazuma LSD, and sits on BFG AT 31" Tires (almost as stock as they come at this age).
Here is the new engine/trans coming home (in my dads Tundra). It came from a wrecked 99 Mercedes 300d. It came with all ecus, exhaust, intercooler, and any wiring I could cut out of it before he hauled it to the crusher. The plan from the start is to sell the Mercedes trans and make an adapter plate to keep the original Toyota R150. For fuel control I've ordered and received Baldurs ecu. I highly considered going with the mechanical pump route, but decided against it. I've done a fair amount of gas fuel injection tuning on another car of mine and figured it would be fun to do the same on this.
Did a little cleanup on the engine, replaced the plastic fuel lines, cleaned the EGR gunked up intake and replaced some gaskets that looked to be leaking. You may notice the power steering pump is off in the picture. The pulley was damaged in the wreck so i've had to order a new one. Additionally I'm planning to mount the original toyota pump as the mercedes pump runs a higher outlet pressure (~1800psi vs 1400).
Started the Teardown on the truck, took lots of angular and positional measurements referenced to the frame so I can get things back at the right angles at least. It's looking like i'll need to slide the trans back about 4" to fit this behemoth behind the front core support. Before I did any teardown I put it on some scales with 3/4 tank of gas to get a weight distribution (man this thing is light!). I wanted to take too see how much the new engine changes it. Currently the truck has very good on road handling, which I assume is because it's so light, and the majority of the engine is behind the front axle. The OM606 is probably about 100 lbs heavier than the 3.0 coming out from numbers I've seen online (om606 ~490, 3.0 ~375)
"here is your new home transmission"
Started work on the adapter plate. Fortunately I was able to find dowel to crank centerline patterns for the OM606 and the toyota R150 posted online, which saved me a ton of time. The om606 came from this forum...forget the username, will update later, but THANK YOU! I sketched them out in CAD and then printed them on paper to fit check them.
R150 pattern, just getting the actual vertical line in there
![[Image: 20170204_210152_zpszshusctx.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/20170204_210152_zpszshusctx.jpg.html)
Toyota 3.4 flywheel infront of Mercedes Flexplate. Ring gear diameters are almost the exact same. Both use an 8 hole bolt pattern (!) with a pitch circle only off by ~2mm in diameter. I'll just mill a 1mm slot in the right direction on the toyota flywheel. I've made a cad assembly of the engine, flexplate, adapter, toyota flywheel, clutch disk and transmission in order to get the axial spacing right. I'll add a cross section view in a later post.
![[Image: 20170129_125332_zpshvqyqnwt.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/20170129_125332_zpshvqyqnwt.jpg.html)
here is the first (not) fitting of the engine. Ran into multiple issues. 1) not enough room for the radiator, will need to move the trans back, but can't do that because the body is in the way, guess that means a body lift is on order, 2) can't drop the engine down far enough - the front pan runs into the steering rod, guess that means I need the 400$ rear sump oil pan (read about this being needed in other 4x4 conversions).
![[Image: IMG_0898_zps5at8n21n.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_0898_zps5at8n21n.jpg.html)
![[Image: 20170215_151441_zpslgjwvmv0.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/20170215_151441_zpslgjwvmv0.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_0905_zpshkmhiwnh.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_0905_zpshkmhiwnh.jpg.html)
interestingly enough, the old motor perches are in the right spot it seems
![[Image: IMG_0903_zpsaxiprxdv.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_0903_zpsaxiprxdv.jpg.html)
Got the 3" Body Lift Kit in from Performance Accessories. The T100 body always sat low, I like the look of it higher, although I think I'd rather it be a 2" Lift (they only sell 3" now). I'll turn down the mounts to 2" if I can get the engine/trans to fit that way. PS the lift is just on the cab for now, the bed is going to require me cutting out all the old stuff with an angle grinder...so thats gonna happen outside at a later date
![[Image: 20170225_121319_zpskawlgpnc.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/20170225_121319_zpskawlgpnc.jpg.html)
heres the trans in newest location
![[Image: IMG_0916_zpsrz1sfvmv.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_0916_zpsrz1sfvmv.jpg.html)
X Double Dot
03-05-2017, 02:59 PM #2This is the mercedes flexplate. The plan is to use this to keep the trigger wheel and ring gear positions as is. I'll then make an adapter to add the toyota flywheel. I went and bought a toyota 3.4 flywheel and clutch kit as I'd read the 3.4 was supposed to have a larger disk. Side to side the disks appear the same. The 3.4 flywheel is clearly heavier. Guessing the 3.4 pressure plate has higher clamping force.
Toyota 3.4 flywheel infront of Mercedes Flexplate. Ring gear diameters are almost the exact same. Both use an 8 hole bolt pattern (!) with a pitch circle only off by ~2mm in diameter. I'll just mill a 1mm slot in the right direction on the toyota flywheel. I've made a cad assembly of the engine, flexplate, adapter, toyota flywheel, clutch disk and transmission in order to get the axial spacing right. I'll add a cross section view in a later post.
here is the first (not) fitting of the engine. Ran into multiple issues. 1) not enough room for the radiator, will need to move the trans back, but can't do that because the body is in the way, guess that means a body lift is on order, 2) can't drop the engine down far enough - the front pan runs into the steering rod, guess that means I need the 400$ rear sump oil pan (read about this being needed in other 4x4 conversions).
interestingly enough, the old motor perches are in the right spot it seems
Got the 3" Body Lift Kit in from Performance Accessories. The T100 body always sat low, I like the look of it higher, although I think I'd rather it be a 2" Lift (they only sell 3" now). I'll turn down the mounts to 2" if I can get the engine/trans to fit that way. PS the lift is just on the cab for now, the bed is going to require me cutting out all the old stuff with an angle grinder...so thats gonna happen outside at a later date
heres the trans in newest location
![[Image: Assembly_zpshlm97i5a.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/Assembly_zpshlm97i5a.jpg.html)
Mainly used this model to figure out how thick the adapters needed to be to get the clutch in the right place axially on the transmission input shaft
![[Image: Cross%20Section%20of%20Assembly_zpsbt6kwauh.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/Cross%20Section%20of%20Assembly_zpsbt6kwauh.jpg.html)
View of the adapters. The orange is the om606 flexplate. Without access to a good lathe or mill
I'm currently quoting a few machine shops to get the adapters made. The plate is currently missing the om648 oil pan bolt holes. Once the plate is made i'm going to use transfer punches and drill those 4 holes myself. I was able to get the transmission and engine clocked to their original resting angles with only a few modifications. I'll document those later on once I get the plate made. nonetheless the bolt patterns are very close and overlap on a few holes no matter what, so i've had to relocate a hole or two. ![[Image: Adapters_zpsd6gux4iw.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/Adapters_zpsd6gux4iw.jpg.html)
X Double Dot
03-26-2017, 09:19 AM #3Finished taking measurements and designing the adapters. Made a few representative CAD models of the OM606 block and R150f transmission for fit checks.
Mainly used this model to figure out how thick the adapters needed to be to get the clutch in the right place axially on the transmission input shaft
View of the adapters. The orange is the om606 flexplate. Without access to a good lathe or mill I'm currently quoting a few machine shops to get the adapters made. The plate is currently missing the om648 oil pan bolt holes. Once the plate is made i'm going to use transfer punches and drill those 4 holes myself. I was able to get the transmission and engine clocked to their original resting angles with only a few modifications. I'll document those later on once I get the plate made. nonetheless the bolt patterns are very close and overlap on a few holes no matter what, so i've had to relocate a hole or two.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
PLEASE upload those cad files to teh sticky when you're done. It helps all of us slap stuff together.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
03-27-2017, 10:19 AM #5Awesome!
PLEASE upload those cad files to teh sticky when you're done. It helps all of us slap stuff together.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(03-27-2017, 10:19 AM)Simpler=Better Awesome!
PLEASE upload those cad files to teh sticky when you're done. It helps all of us slap stuff together.
will do. Once I bolt everything up and make sure it all fits I'll add them
X Double Dot
03-27-2017, 11:42 AM #6(03-27-2017, 10:19 AM)Simpler=Better Awesome!
PLEASE upload those cad files to teh sticky when you're done. It helps all of us slap stuff together.
will do. Once I bolt everything up and make sure it all fits I'll add them
![[Image: IMG_1310_zps0bbhcxa0.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1310_zps0bbhcxa0.jpg.html)
The plate was designed to be machined from one side, 1 to make it cheaper, 2 to keep the dowel locations between the engine and transmission as aligned as possible. Some angle grinder work on the starter side by the dowel was required for everything to fit. Also for the starter, I threaded the adapter plate and bolted to it from the engine side with some gr12.9 allen head m8 bolts (originally its threaded and gets clamped against the engine from the transmission side with m10s). If I hadn't done this I would have had to unbolt the transmission to replace the starter, and there was interference with one of the dowel holes for the toyota transmission, so this had to happen.
![[Image: IMG_1307_zpsvmvnypfw.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1307_zpsvmvnypfw.jpg.html)
slotted the toyota flywheel bolt holes on the mill, it's amazing how close the toyota pattern was with the mercedes.
![[Image: IMG_1287_zpsqrsrlywf.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1287_zpsqrsrlywf.jpg.html)
X Double Dot
04-15-2017, 11:53 PM #7Got the plate and the flywheel spacer in from a machine shop up the street. With access only to a wobbly lathe and a glorified drill press I was more than happy to fork a little money to these guys, primarily on the flywheel adapter due the tolerances needed. The plate is 5/8" 7075 Aluminum and the adapter is just some mild steel they had on hand. On the adapter plate I had them just put in the dowel holes + the bolt holes I knew the location of (everything but the om648 oil pan holes). I tapped and helicoiled the holes for the transmission since they were going into aluminum. The Toyota uses 6 M12 bolts and 4 M10s. I was able to get 5 of the M12s and 2 of the M10s in there without overlap with some feature of the Mercedes pattern. I will weld additional bosses to the bellhousing for these (in locations denoted by the circular additions around the adapter).
The plate was designed to be machined from one side, 1 to make it cheaper, 2 to keep the dowel locations between the engine and transmission as aligned as possible. Some angle grinder work on the starter side by the dowel was required for everything to fit. Also for the starter, I threaded the adapter plate and bolted to it from the engine side with some gr12.9 allen head m8 bolts (originally its threaded and gets clamped against the engine from the transmission side with m10s). If I hadn't done this I would have had to unbolt the transmission to replace the starter, and there was interference with one of the dowel holes for the toyota transmission, so this had to happen.
slotted the toyota flywheel bolt holes on the mill, it's amazing how close the toyota pattern was with the mercedes.
![[Image: IMG_1312_zpsskaxpdup.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1312_zpsskaxpdup.jpg.html)
Plate and flywheel mounted - ready? for the transmission install. If your wondering why the color of the pilot bearing changed, it's because the first one I did felt a too tight so I opened up the press fit a hair. Turns out they aren't meant to take much of an interference fit, (if anyone actually needs to replicate this, the bearing was a 32.00 OD, and I made the adapter to 31.98ish and installed the bearing with the green loctite retaining compound. Initially I had it at 31.7 which was wayyyyy to much, as was 31.85).
![[Image: IMG_1321_zps0pfdi00j.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1321_zps0pfdi00j.jpg.html)
And the moment of truth....phew it actually lined up. I still need to confirm where the clutch disk rests on the splines,
![[Image: IMG_1328_zpsaa0safzu.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1328_zpsaa0safzu.jpg.html)
All together. The assembly from the driveshaft flange to the pulleys is 68.75"
![[Image: IMG_1327_zps1oxcotyk.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1327_zps1oxcotyk.jpg.html)
X Double Dot
04-16-2017, 12:43 AM #8Made this little guy on the lathe to get the one om648 oil pan hole I couldn't get to with a transfer punch.
Plate and flywheel mounted - ready? for the transmission install. If your wondering why the color of the pilot bearing changed, it's because the first one I did felt a too tight so I opened up the press fit a hair. Turns out they aren't meant to take much of an interference fit, (if anyone actually needs to replicate this, the bearing was a 32.00 OD, and I made the adapter to 31.98ish and installed the bearing with the green loctite retaining compound. Initially I had it at 31.7 which was wayyyyy to much, as was 31.85).
And the moment of truth....phew it actually lined up. I still need to confirm where the clutch disk rests on the splines,
All together. The assembly from the driveshaft flange to the pulleys is 68.75"
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-17-2017, 12:42 PM #9Incredible work, that bit about the toyo flywheel lining up almost perfectly is GOLD! Those are way easier to ifnd than 606 flywheels.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(04-17-2017, 12:42 PM)Simpler=Better Incredible work, that bit about the toyo flywheel lining up almost perfectly is GOLD! Those are way easier to ifnd than 606 flywheels.
^ Thanks. btw, what do people do for a service manual on these things? I'm mainly just looking for om606.692 engine torque specs. Are there any free online options? If not, where do people even buy them? ebay has some 12$ dvds...but I'm guessing they have nothing useful on them.
X Double Dot
04-22-2017, 09:27 AM #10(04-17-2017, 12:42 PM)Simpler=Better Incredible work, that bit about the toyo flywheel lining up almost perfectly is GOLD! Those are way easier to ifnd than 606 flywheels.
^ Thanks. btw, what do people do for a service manual on these things? I'm mainly just looking for om606.692 engine torque specs. Are there any free online options? If not, where do people even buy them? ebay has some 12$ dvds...but I'm guessing they have nothing useful on them.
![[Image: IMG_1355_zpswnvw5fp7.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1355_zpswnvw5fp7.jpg.html)
[/url]
![[Image: IMG_1340_zpsqbrhefod.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1340_zpsqbrhefod.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_1338_zpsehn3vcqv.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1338_zpsehn3vcqv.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_1337_zps4uomvb7u.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1337_zps4uomvb7u.jpg.html)
Nothing like taking an angle grinder and sawszall to your brand new 380$ oil pan. Here is it welded up, and the drain plug relocated. I set the pan at the angle I think it will end up in the car then added some water to made sure the plug location won't leave a puddle in there. I also welded the hole for the "oil condition/level/everything" sensor as I have no use/ability to read it...and I don't have one. Welding it took a little while as I only did small sections at a time to make sure I didn't warp anything. Also having an air cooled torch helped make sure I wasn't welding too long as it got really hot reallly quick (was basically running 125-150amps to get any sort of puddle going).
![[Image: IMG_1347_zps1fbakahu.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1347_zps1fbakahu.jpg.html)
Next I filled it with water over night to leak test it. Found no leaks...so we'll see how it all holds after a few heat cycles. I then reset it at the angle I think it will sit in the car and added 8 quarts of water. since I can't find a freakin dipstick for this thing (-1 for Mercedes on that) , i'll likely be making my own and I need to get a decent idea what "full" should be (I can't even get a dipstick tube as they discontinued that and ebay has been empty). I was also curious what 8 quarts looked like relative to the oil pan mating face, it's basically right at the line
![[Image: IMG_1349_zpsenx0g1hw.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1349_zpsenx0g1hw.jpg.html)
[url=http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1351_zpsquqw3h22.jpg.html]
![[Image: IMG_1351_zpsquqw3h22.jpg]](http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah135/bryan_plunkett1/IMG_1351_zpsquqw3h22.jpg)
Back in with the new pan. I think it's sitting where i'll leave it. It's essentially 1 2x4 section above the toyota mount arms (if you look carefully you can see them). I really wanted to move the mercedes mounts to the more forward mounting positions on the block...but these line up so well that I think I will probably leave them where they are.
![[Image: IMG_1357_zpsebxk9f4v.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1357_zpsebxk9f4v.jpg.html)
X Double Dot
04-23-2017, 09:34 PM #11with this thing bolted together, it was time for some fit checks. As expected, the oil pan was going to need some clearancing for the front diff and some for the front diff mount. Also the drain plug was going to need to get moved. The good news is this is the first time i've been able to fit the radiator in there. It's looking like I'll have to go with a pusher fan on the front though for sure.
[/url]
Nothing like taking an angle grinder and sawszall to your brand new 380$ oil pan. Here is it welded up, and the drain plug relocated. I set the pan at the angle I think it will end up in the car then added some water to made sure the plug location won't leave a puddle in there. I also welded the hole for the "oil condition/level/everything" sensor as I have no use/ability to read it...and I don't have one. Welding it took a little while as I only did small sections at a time to make sure I didn't warp anything. Also having an air cooled torch helped make sure I wasn't welding too long as it got really hot reallly quick (was basically running 125-150amps to get any sort of puddle going).
Next I filled it with water over night to leak test it. Found no leaks...so we'll see how it all holds after a few heat cycles. I then reset it at the angle I think it will sit in the car and added 8 quarts of water. since I can't find a freakin dipstick for this thing (-1 for Mercedes on that) , i'll likely be making my own and I need to get a decent idea what "full" should be (I can't even get a dipstick tube as they discontinued that and ebay has been empty). I was also curious what 8 quarts looked like relative to the oil pan mating face, it's basically right at the line
[url=http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1351_zpsquqw3h22.jpg.html]
Back in with the new pan. I think it's sitting where i'll leave it. It's essentially 1 2x4 section above the toyota mount arms (if you look carefully you can see them). I really wanted to move the mercedes mounts to the more forward mounting positions on the block...but these line up so well that I think I will probably leave them where they are.
![[Image: IMG_1359_zpsk5y8ynlt.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1359_zpsk5y8ynlt.jpg.html)
Way more clearance to the firewall than I had expected. Lots of access (and room) around the turbo incase I decide to go with something a little larger down the road
![[Image: IMG_1363_zpsyhpzdsfa.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1363_zpsyhpzdsfa.jpg.html)
next is motor mounts. I had planned to use a set of these, http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/ss-...shion-set/ since the previous owner of this engine broke both trying to get the engine out. I got some in the mail, but wasn't extremely impressed. hopefully this week I can get in there with the sawzall and make something fit
X Double Dot
04-23-2017, 09:44 PM #12There is just enough room to get the bellhousing up and on there with the clearance to the body. I'd love to take out the 3" body lift spacers and use some 2" ones, but i'm pretty hesitant due to the minimal clearance I have here.
Way more clearance to the firewall than I had expected. Lots of access (and room) around the turbo incase I decide to go with something a little larger down the road
next is motor mounts. I had planned to use a set of these, http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/ss-...shion-set/ since the previous owner of this engine broke both trying to get the engine out. I got some in the mail, but wasn't extremely impressed. hopefully this week I can get in there with the sawzall and make something fit
Regarding engine info books, we in the UK use a Haynes' Manual because they are cheap, you might be able to get one on Amazon or something, linky:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-Benz-...SwSypY-Q~x
And regarding engine mounts, maybe look at different engine model mounts from the same era as they'll fit the block and come in different angles, as it looks like you'd prefer some higher angled ones to allow more space for a proper engine mount.
Good to see a fellow Solidworks user,
Beers,
HH
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Awesome build.
Regarding engine info books, we in the UK use a Haynes' Manual because they are cheap, you might be able to get one on Amazon or something, linky:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-Benz-...SwSypY-Q~x
And regarding engine mounts, maybe look at different engine model mounts from the same era as they'll fit the block and come in different angles, as it looks like you'd prefer some higher angled ones to allow more space for a proper engine mount.
Good to see a fellow Solidworks user,
Beers,
HH
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
(04-28-2017, 05:42 AM)Hario\ Awesome build.
Regarding engine info books, we in the UK use a Haynes' Manual because they are cheap, you might be able to get one on Amazon or something, linky:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-Benz-...SwSypY-Q~x
And regarding engine mounts, maybe look at different engine model mounts from the same era as they'll fit the block and come in different angles, as it looks like you'd prefer some higher angled ones to allow more space for a proper engine mount.
Good to see a fellow Solidworks user,
Beers,
HH
Thanks!
regarding the manuals it seems haynes skipped an actual workshop manual for the turbo om606 applications. I was hoping there was a source online somewhere that was hosting the pdfs of the factory mercedes manual
X Double Dot
05-07-2017, 07:32 PM #14(04-28-2017, 05:42 AM)Hario\ Awesome build.
Regarding engine info books, we in the UK use a Haynes' Manual because they are cheap, you might be able to get one on Amazon or something, linky:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-Benz-...SwSypY-Q~x
And regarding engine mounts, maybe look at different engine model mounts from the same era as they'll fit the block and come in different angles, as it looks like you'd prefer some higher angled ones to allow more space for a proper engine mount.
Good to see a fellow Solidworks user,
Beers,
HH
Thanks!
regarding the manuals it seems haynes skipped an actual workshop manual for the turbo om606 applications. I was hoping there was a source online somewhere that was hosting the pdfs of the factory mercedes manual
![[Image: IMG_1376_zpslspionkv.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1376_zpslspionkv.jpg.html)
I was able to get the om606 "TPS sensor" mounted/mated with the Toyota throttle cable. I used the throttle actuator off the toyota intake and then spaced it on the TPS such that the cable pull matched 0-100% on the sensor. It's not the prettiest mount I've made, but it's quite functional.
![[Image: 52e8ca76-20b8-4447-ad48-7500382e87a7_zpsuxnlwvdg.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/52e8ca76-20b8-4447-ad48-7500382e87a7_zpsuxnlwvdg.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_1381_zpsvrs2i90u.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1381_zpsvrs2i90u.jpg.html)
X Double Dot
05-07-2017, 07:48 PM #15Still working through the engine mounts. Planning to use these first Gen Cummins mounts (orginally for the Dodge ram) on the stock Toyota perches. I've gotten some plate to bolt to the block so I "just" need to get the engine in it's final position and then connect the plate to the mounts. I'll probably weld in a support for the frame perch as the cardboard in the picture suggests.
I was able to get the om606 "TPS sensor" mounted/mated with the Toyota throttle cable. I used the throttle actuator off the toyota intake and then spaced it on the TPS such that the cable pull matched 0-100% on the sensor. It's not the prettiest mount I've made, but it's quite functional.
![[Image: IMG_1387_zpsyvk4vlqq.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1387_zpsyvk4vlqq.jpg.html)
It was way easier to get the camera in to take this shot than it was to tack weld these plates
![[Image: IMG_1385_zps8bxsxuu4.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1385_zps8bxsxuu4.jpg.html)
Hopefully the final product. I had the plate that mounts to the engine water jet locally. Everything else was cut with a sawszall or an angle grinder which explains why some of the bolt access holes are weird shapes. Ideally I would have sprung for a holesaw or something to make things prettier...but didn't have time to get one in order to finish these by the end of the weekend.
![[Image: IMG_1388_zps3ucmte2g.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1388_zps3ucmte2g.jpg.html)
installed pics
![[Image: IMG_1400_zpsotddfhfz.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1400_zpsotddfhfz.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_1393_zpsbio24hjb.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1393_zpsbio24hjb.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_1398_zpsp7isgscf.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1398_zpsp7isgscf.jpg.html)
Next item up will be the transmission mount...as it's set back about 5" i'm probably going to need to make a new cross member.
![[Image: IMG_1389_zpsjxd3mbgs.jpg]](http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bryan_plunkett1/media/IMG_1389_zpsjxd3mbgs.jpg.html)
X Double Dot
05-16-2017, 11:22 PM #16Finally got around to getting the engine in it's "final" resting place and making some mounts. I decided on first Gen Cummins isolators and then fabbed the mounts from scratch. I started with the 5/16" plate on the engine and a 3/16" plate on the isolator. I positioned the engine such that the toyota transmission rested at the same roll and pitch that it sat originally. This correlated to the engine being tipped back roughly 3.5° which is good for the rear sump oil and and is pretty close to the 3° rule of thumb. I squared everything up taking measurements between a frame cross member and the transmission output flange. This also seemed to make the pulleys at the front square with the frame and radiator...so I went with it.
It was way easier to get the camera in to take this shot than it was to tack weld these plates
Hopefully the final product. I had the plate that mounts to the engine water jet locally. Everything else was cut with a sawszall or an angle grinder which explains why some of the bolt access holes are weird shapes. Ideally I would have sprung for a holesaw or something to make things prettier...but didn't have time to get one in order to finish these by the end of the weekend.
installed pics
Next item up will be the transmission mount...as it's set back about 5" i'm probably going to need to make a new cross member.
Mitsubishi L200 manual om605
7.5mm Bosch 044 fed pump
Borgwarner S200
Those mounts look good. Look identical to the mounts I made for my truck. Overkill but strong and practical. They're very useful for catching tools that U drop too wen working on the engine
Mitsubishi L200 manual om605
7.5mm Bosch 044 fed pump
Borgwarner S200
SilveradOM606
06-04-2018, 02:50 PM #18I hope it's ok to post these pics here...of the GT23V (VNT) I installed on my 2002 Silverado with OM606 and 6mm mechanical pump. So I had struggled to unleash some power out of the motor. Tried several small turbos looking for quick spool, and finally this VNT turbo managed to deliver what I was looking for. To avoid spending/wasting more money, I took the cheapest possible approach: I cut a piece of 10mm mild steel, drilled some holes for some studs, and cut out the scroll hole (jigsaw) as centered as possible with the stock 606 manifold. I cut some gaskets from gasket material I got from ebay. The flange worked pretty good, no leaks. I also adapted a boost controller and cut the compressor housing tip. Anyway, here are a couple quick pics.
SilveradOM606
06-04-2018, 08:58 PM #19My appologies for having posted the previous pictures here. The owner of the subject T100 asked me for those pics and I inadvertently put then on this post which is not his original.
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