clocking the garrett
clocking the garrett
it seems like you can't remove the bolts with those flanges in the way, and can't rotate nor lift the flanges out of the way until the bolts are removed. what am i missing? do i have to take something else apart first? thanks in advance for any tips.
![[Image: DSC_0350.JPG]](http://www.lithic.org/tmp/DSC_0350.JPG)
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
i swapped from the 1985 CA exhaust mani & test pipe to a non-EGR W116 exhaust mani. its orientation is different, so i need to reclock the oil feed and drain to be vertical. i'm confused because two of the bolts holding the oil assembly to the exhaust side are fouled by the oil flanges.
it seems like you can't remove the bolts with those flanges in the way, and can't rotate nor lift the flanges out of the way until the bolts are removed. what am i missing? do i have to take something else apart first? thanks in advance for any tips.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-10-2017, 11:17 AM #3^Hercules is on point. They're a pain in the butt.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
is there any consensus on how vertical the oil path has to be?
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
thank you folks. if i understand right the fouled bolts are no obstacle; i'll go try to rotate it with a few taps from a hammer.
is there any consensus on how vertical the oil path has to be?
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-10-2017, 03:58 PM #615deg I think? You want to be as close to vertical as possible.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
i put a big clamp across the flanges and banged on the end of it, but there was no sense that it had loosened. the intake side already turns in two places.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
On my stock 83 W126 300SD I get an angle of about 19 degrees ccw.
(The end of a 92 cm wooden dowel perpenicular to the bolt is 29 cm offset from a vertical plumb line)
My 78 W116 300SD appears the same.
The center housing (with the oil feed flange) is mounted to the cast iron turbine housing by six bolts.
If you remove the six bolts you can clock the center housing with respect to the T-3 flange position.
Since the bolt holes are not slotted there is no fine adjustment possible, the six possible clock positons are 60 degrees apart.
The sole bolt that remains mounting the center housing to the turbine housing prevents you from re-clocking the center housing.
It can be removed, you need to continually wedge the the center housing and the turbine housing apart while you loosen the bolt bit by bit.
Since the T-3 flange on the W116 non-EGR exhaust mainfold is roughly vertical to the same extent as the 1985 California exhaust manifold you removed, I don't think you will need to re-clock the center housing.
If you want to clock the center section a bit you will need to slot the six mounting holes...but that will weaken the center housing.
The oil feed line will need to be massaged and gently bent to clear the W115 intake manifold and align properly with the flange on the center housing.
The aluminum compressor housing can be rotated to any angle to match the ductwork to the intake manifold.
The oil feed flange is not horizontal, the bolt closer to the engine is higher than the bolt further from the engine.
On my stock 83 W126 300SD I get an angle of about 19 degrees ccw.
(The end of a 92 cm wooden dowel perpenicular to the bolt is 29 cm offset from a vertical plumb line)
My 78 W116 300SD appears the same.
The center housing (with the oil feed flange) is mounted to the cast iron turbine housing by six bolts.
If you remove the six bolts you can clock the center housing with respect to the T-3 flange position.
Since the bolt holes are not slotted there is no fine adjustment possible, the six possible clock positons are 60 degrees apart.
The sole bolt that remains mounting the center housing to the turbine housing prevents you from re-clocking the center housing.
It can be removed, you need to continually wedge the the center housing and the turbine housing apart while you loosen the bolt bit by bit.
Since the T-3 flange on the W116 non-EGR exhaust mainfold is roughly vertical to the same extent as the 1985 California exhaust manifold you removed, I don't think you will need to re-clock the center housing.
If you want to clock the center section a bit you will need to slot the six mounting holes...but that will weaken the center housing.
The oil feed line will need to be massaged and gently bent to clear the W115 intake manifold and align properly with the flange on the center housing.
The aluminum compressor housing can be rotated to any angle to match the ductwork to the intake manifold.
![[Image: 2h3u6o8.jpg]](http://i67.tinypic.com/2h3u6o8.jpg)
![[Image: 29zd37d.jpg]](http://i65.tinypic.com/29zd37d.jpg)
![[Image: wbcp5h.jpg]](http://i65.tinypic.com/wbcp5h.jpg)
![[Image: 2dje3xz.jpg]](http://i67.tinypic.com/2dje3xz.jpg)
![[Image: 1zegmtx.jpg]](http://i67.tinypic.com/1zegmtx.jpg)
2 Guest(s)
2 Guest(s)