S202 m111 to om 601 swap to S124

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iDiesel

Naturally-aspirated

13

01-05-2018, 07:23 PM #1

Then I installed a LPG system on it,but after salty Latvian winter roads there were much rust,decided to roller paint it with a hammerite

In less than a year something happened to the color and it started to look realy bad,i wanted to make it look better,so spray painted it white

Now youre thinking,dude this is a superturbodiesel forum,not how to paint yout not diesel car for cehap...
I was tired of LPG system,of filling two fuels...all I needed in my life was that childhoot time prechamber diesel sound....I bought a om601 engine and a 722,4 transmission.and swaped engine...

There it is inside

I think i have no any photo of it finished,but its anyway a big mess in engine bay,so what i did in order to swap a m111 to a om601:
Engine mounts - just put m111 mounts to om601 block,easy as that
Gearbox mount from 722,6 had to be modified a bit to fit a 722.4,but it can be done with a file or a drill and is very easy.
Steering pump - dont even take it off,m111 pump fits om601 ,just have to use 6PK2030 belt,if no ac is used.
wiring - very easy,if you dont need oem tep gauge and tach...
So about that - does anybody know,how I can get the oem temp gauge to work and tachometer,it looks like temp gauge wires goes to the ecu,then are transfered to cluster via can line,so no simple gauge - sensor connecting here...really?
Right now driven daily and using a temp gauge from lada - a friendly reminder that there were a dark times a communism and a lada ,I call it Lenin. Big Grin

So basically Lenin shows me how hot my engine is.

I also got a tablet installed,but trim not finished

also have a starer motor blown

Due to a cheap chine aliexpress silicone keyfob cove,which made the key to stuck in the starting postion and keep starter crank the engine wile it was alredy running.
Installed a diesel badge,so everyone knows why my car is not so fast

But wait,diesels can go fast,thats why there are a superturbodiesel forum...
I do want to install a turbo,and I need your advice in this - i got a turbo from Renault,its some kind of small garret turbo,i am not planning big power,just a daily driveable power,more than 70 horses... Big Grin

I am planning to use a vito exhaust manifold and make a intake manifold adapter to 4 - 1 ,but is it possible to keep my old fuel pump,or i will need a bigger elements?Is there any chance of getting more fuel at boost or something with the old pump?I just want to know do I have to get a pump from the same vito,or install elements,or I can just use my old pump lets say for 100horses?
Thanks if you readed all this,progress coming soon!
Nevermind if there's something not logical in text ,thats my old macbook doing magic... Big Grin

This post was last modified: 03-31-2018, 11:53 AM by iDiesel.

iDiesel

01-05-2018, 07:23 PM #1

Hello,I finally got my account activated and can tell you a story of my S202.

I will start where it all beagan,when I was a little kid,my father had only s123 benzes,and all diesels,i felt in love with mercedes,there where no better car for me than the mercedes benz,there are people telling me,that I was running around with mercedes star in my hands(probably taken off some mercedes grill,the big star)So time went and I started to buy a cars,even before I got a license to drive,I have had various communist disasters as moskvitch,zaz,lada,even szd invalids car,then VW golf mk2 turbodiesel and maybe something that i have forgoten,but then I bought my first benz - w201,unfinished project,as I coud not afford a driveable car,engine were not runnign,interior was in the boxes,many parts were in boxes...got it running,finally got my license but soon sold it to my friend,because as a student I coud not afford all the parts the car neede,also I didnt had a garage at that time,so not everything was doable for me.Then I bought a cheap vw jetta mk2 ,then the BMW time started,I got an e30 preface sedan,m10 engine,total disaster car,everything was wrong with it,but I kinda fixe it and traded it for an e36,also disaster,but a little bit better,then i sold that e36 to my friends and bought another one,there it all starts again - car was staying in yard for two years on previos owner,fixe it,passed the inspection,swapped engine from m43b16 to m50b20,then the b20 lost compression,me and my firend built a m50b25 high compression engine,thank to my firend,who was working as a motorist,swap again...then traded the e36 to e30,this time a good one,m40 engine,facelift sedan,but no powr...added a turbo,fooled the ecu for more fuel at boost and after a few months on another late night of tinkering ,adjustig boost,we blew out the headgasket.
Then sapped it to an m20b20 ,added m50 engine manegement and it was ok,I was totally a petrolhead,but something missing...I realised that i have tried to trade every single of my BMW's to Merc's,but with no success I always ended up with BMW...
Okay and here it really begins:
I traded my e30 to s202,m111 engine,auto gearbox,4 power Windows...i never have regreted that,never.I still remember driving it home that day...
This is how it looked

Then I installed a LPG system on it,but after salty Latvian winter roads there were much rust,decided to roller paint it with a hammerite

In less than a year something happened to the color and it started to look realy bad,i wanted to make it look better,so spray painted it white

Now youre thinking,dude this is a superturbodiesel forum,not how to paint yout not diesel car for cehap...
I was tired of LPG system,of filling two fuels...all I needed in my life was that childhoot time prechamber diesel sound....I bought a om601 engine and a 722,4 transmission.and swaped engine...

There it is inside

I think i have no any photo of it finished,but its anyway a big mess in engine bay,so what i did in order to swap a m111 to a om601:
Engine mounts - just put m111 mounts to om601 block,easy as that
Gearbox mount from 722,6 had to be modified a bit to fit a 722.4,but it can be done with a file or a drill and is very easy.
Steering pump - dont even take it off,m111 pump fits om601 ,just have to use 6PK2030 belt,if no ac is used.
wiring - very easy,if you dont need oem tep gauge and tach...
So about that - does anybody know,how I can get the oem temp gauge to work and tachometer,it looks like temp gauge wires goes to the ecu,then are transfered to cluster via can line,so no simple gauge - sensor connecting here...really?
Right now driven daily and using a temp gauge from lada - a friendly reminder that there were a dark times a communism and a lada ,I call it Lenin. Big Grin So basically Lenin shows me how hot my engine is.

I also got a tablet installed,but trim not finished

also have a starer motor blown

Due to a cheap chine aliexpress silicone keyfob cove,which made the key to stuck in the starting postion and keep starter crank the engine wile it was alredy running.
Installed a diesel badge,so everyone knows why my car is not so fast

But wait,diesels can go fast,thats why there are a superturbodiesel forum...
I do want to install a turbo,and I need your advice in this - i got a turbo from Renault,its some kind of small garret turbo,i am not planning big power,just a daily driveable power,more than 70 horses... Big Grin I am planning to use a vito exhaust manifold and make a intake manifold adapter to 4 - 1 ,but is it possible to keep my old fuel pump,or i will need a bigger elements?Is there any chance of getting more fuel at boost or something with the old pump?I just want to know do I have to get a pump from the same vito,or install elements,or I can just use my old pump lets say for 100horses?
Thanks if you readed all this,progress coming soon!
Nevermind if there's something not logical in text ,thats my old macbook doing magic... Big Grin

Petar

7.5mm M pump

459

01-05-2018, 08:08 PM #2

I think you can make the gauges work. Keep the ECU and use the sensors from the M111 engine. You can also have the tachometer working if install a trigger wheel and a sensor for rpm so the stock ecu thinks the engine is there. Remove the check engine bulb from the cluster and voila ! Big Grin

Your plan for turbocharging will work, and the stock 5.5mm pump can deliver enough fuel for 110-120 hp if you max it out. If you swap in bigger elements that number increases significantly but so does the chance of the engine blowing up Tongue

So I think 100hp for daily driving is doable.

This post was last modified: 01-05-2018, 08:10 PM by Petar.

Petar

01-05-2018, 08:08 PM #2

Very interesting project. I have an S202 too, they rust so easily. Front jacking points and sills are rusted and I'm quite afraid what will I find underneath it. So we do need how to paint your diesel car for cheap here Big Grin I think you can make the gauges work. Keep the ECU and use the sensors from the M111 engine. You can also have the tachometer working if install a trigger wheel and a sensor for rpm so the stock ecu thinks the engine is there. Remove the check engine bulb from the cluster and voila !

Your plan for turbocharging will work, and the stock 5.5mm pump can deliver enough fuel for 110-120 hp if you max it out. If you swap in bigger elements that number increases significantly but so does the chance of the engine blowing up Tongue So I think 100hp for daily driving is doable.

R-3350

Dreaming of compounds

182

01-05-2018, 11:56 PM #3

remember to get a good intercooler and i might recommend a good oil cooler as well to keep everything happy under boost. the 601 should be fine at 100HP on all stock parts. if you are looking into some way of controlling the fuel added under boost to stop it from smoking too much i might talk to dieselmeken, while he normally builds large element super pumps he also sells parts like the external ALDA he puts on most of those pumps to control them better. you could see how much he wants for an external ALDA kit to bolt onto your pump to make tuning easier. if you were interested you could also have someone swap the 6mm elements from a 605/606 pump to get a little bit more fuel but not too much. and finally if you ever get bored of only 100HP Ftune makes rods and MLS head gaskets for the 601/604 he built a 604 putting out 400+HP.

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...p?tid=6138

https://youtu.be/OGFKZZAMDII

85 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way.

R-3350

01-05-2018, 11:56 PM #3

85 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way.

iDiesel

Naturally-aspirated

13

01-06-2018, 11:55 AM #4

Thanks for your advices!Petar,I was thinking of adding the m111 wiring to the engine,but don't know why I changed my mind,I suppose I coud use a 722,6 driveplate and make a hole in the engine block for the sensor as it is on the m111,but that's too late,don't want to take gearbox off,maybe you kow how the stock m601 tachometer Works?I have hole in the gearbox for the sensor,but what does it count,as on the flywheel there are no special marks,just the sprocket.I don't think I will get into changing internals,at least ,I dont want to,i got a plan of Building a 604 engine ,but that's not now,not this year,or just put a om606 later ,but I dont know what will be with engine mounts then....ok so basically i can use my pump,that's nice to hear,how to I adjust it for more fuel?
And btw,my forum rank is ''naturally aspirated'' ,that rank is soooo true! Big Grin

This post was last modified: 01-06-2018, 11:58 AM by iDiesel.

iDiesel

01-06-2018, 11:55 AM #4

Petar

7.5mm M pump

459

01-06-2018, 02:31 PM #5

Turn the full load screw(25,bottom left) out(CCW). Try 1 or 2 turns. This will increase the max fueling but due to the way the governor works it'll likely mess up the idle and return to idle. It would idle fast and unstable and when you rev it up it will take a long time to fall back to idle.So try turning the minimum throttle stop(28,top right) out the same amount to fix the return to idle. After you have good return to idle and if the idle speed is not correct adjust it by turning the idle screw(29,top). Turning it out(CCW) will increase the idle speed, turning it in(CW) will decrease it.
If you wan't to understand what each adjustment does google : "SECTION 1F3 DIESEL ENGINE CONTROLS" and read the PDF.

Since you have an automatic transmission you will probably have to adjust it too so it shifts properly, more firm shifts are needed when you increase the engine power.

Petar

01-06-2018, 02:31 PM #5

The stock OM601 tach works by reading the starter gear teeth using a variable reluctance sensor... 144 pulses per revolution.OM602 and 603 engines use the same system. The hole for the sensor should be on the bottom left side of the engine, it's actually part of the sump.

So some kind of converter electronics is necessary since the M111 uses a trigger wheel on the flywheel. It is possible but I think that removing the transmission and installing the original drive plate is the easier way to make it work. It is not that hard to remove the transmission, much easier than in a FWD car.

You should install the turbo first before adjusting the pump. Make sure it works ok. Then adjust the pump. Then after it runs ok you can install an ALDA on your pump to reduce off boost smoke. Factory ALDA will work ok since you already have the altitude compensator, the ALDA swaps in instead of it, you don't need the external ALDA.

How to adjust the pump, short version:
[Image: attachment.php?aid=691]
Turn the full load screw(25,bottom left) out(CCW). Try 1 or 2 turns. This will increase the max fueling but due to the way the governor works it'll likely mess up the idle and return to idle. It would idle fast and unstable and when you rev it up it will take a long time to fall back to idle.So try turning the minimum throttle stop(28,top right) out the same amount to fix the return to idle. After you have good return to idle and if the idle speed is not correct adjust it by turning the idle screw(29,top). Turning it out(CCW) will increase the idle speed, turning it in(CW) will decrease it.
If you wan't to understand what each adjustment does google : "SECTION 1F3 DIESEL ENGINE CONTROLS" and read the PDF.

Since you have an automatic transmission you will probably have to adjust it too so it shifts properly, more firm shifts are needed when you increase the engine power.

iDiesel

Naturally-aspirated

13

01-07-2018, 06:32 PM #6

Thanks Petar,so much interesting information!Yes I know taking out a gearbox on rwd cars are a lot easier than on fwd cars,let's say opel vectra B,it is a pain to take gearbox out Big Grin

I'm just not sure that 722,6 driveplate was the same as 722.4 and the hole on m111 for sensor was on the top on engine in bell housing where driveplate is,on my car only hole I see is in the gearbox side.,that might mean drilling into the block,which is not a big deal when engine is out but...it isnt Big Grin

As I understand there are no way of getting the engine run better without turbo?Actually how much it shoud consumpt fuel?Right now I am somewhere at 7liters on 100km,I was told that this engine is VERY economical,like 5-6 liters on 100km,so this is bothering me aswell,today the shut off valve started to die,it dont want to shutt the engine off,i believe it's cracked,somewhere i saw eletrical replacement instead of vaccum but cannot find it at the moment,does anybody know any diy on this,I mean no changing but improving the system using eletric motor or solenoid not vaccum,right at the moment I have a vacuum valve installed from e36 tank ventilation,which opens when ignition is switched off and lets vacuum to the valve,between the vacuum pump and the valve I fitted little vacuum reservoir from the same e 36 tank ventilation system.

This post was last modified: 01-07-2018, 06:34 PM by iDiesel.

iDiesel

01-07-2018, 06:32 PM #6

Thanks Petar,so much interesting information!Yes I know taking out a gearbox on rwd cars are a lot easier than on fwd cars,let's say opel vectra B,it is a pain to take gearbox out Big Grin I'm just not sure that 722,6 driveplate was the same as 722.4 and the hole on m111 for sensor was on the top on engine in bell housing where driveplate is,on my car only hole I see is in the gearbox side.,that might mean drilling into the block,which is not a big deal when engine is out but...it isnt Big Grin As I understand there are no way of getting the engine run better without turbo?Actually how much it shoud consumpt fuel?Right now I am somewhere at 7liters on 100km,I was told that this engine is VERY economical,like 5-6 liters on 100km,so this is bothering me aswell,today the shut off valve started to die,it dont want to shutt the engine off,i believe it's cracked,somewhere i saw eletrical replacement instead of vaccum but cannot find it at the moment,does anybody know any diy on this,I mean no changing but improving the system using eletric motor or solenoid not vaccum,right at the moment I have a vacuum valve installed from e36 tank ventilation,which opens when ignition is switched off and lets vacuum to the valve,between the vacuum pump and the valve I fitted little vacuum reservoir from the same e 36 tank ventilation system.

iDiesel

Naturally-aspirated

13

01-15-2018, 05:53 AM #7

I did install a central locking motor on the stop lever to shut off the engine eletrically,if anyone interested i can post schematics later.But i have a question - in order to do so my stop lever on pump stays halfway pressed ,i thought this is somekind of freeplay in lever that it travels so big distance as the motor travels short distance i set it default position halfway pressed and know expierencing bad cold start @-7 degrees celsius and poor power,can anybody tell me what exactly stop lever does,i know that it cuts fuel but does it starts cutting fuel if halfway pressed?
EDIT:I did install the motor properly and now everything is fine,no start issues and power back to normal.

This post was last modified: 01-16-2018, 04:15 PM by iDiesel.

iDiesel

01-15-2018, 05:53 AM #7

Petar

7.5mm M pump

459

01-28-2018, 07:03 PM #8

The stop lever limits rack travel and thus fuelling.Normally when starting the engine maximum fuel quantity is injected. When the shutoff lever is pulled halfway you won't have excess start fuel for cold start. If you pull it even more you could reduce performance of the motor. Like having a brick below the throttle. You can push the pedal, it just won't do anything past a certain point.

IMO no need to be afraid of the vacuum shut off. It is simple and works well. You just need a two way solenoid vacuum valve(3/2 switchover valve) wired to the ignition switch. When power is applied to the valve it should vent the shutoff module to atmosphere. When unpowered it should connect the shutoff module to vacuum pipe to vacuum pump. It should shut off like a gas car.

I believe 5 or 6 liters/100km is unrealistic. More like 7-9. My c250 turbo does anywhere from 7 to 10 depending on driving conditions.

This post was last modified: 01-28-2018, 07:04 PM by Petar.

Petar

01-28-2018, 07:03 PM #8

Tobulus

GT2256V

136

01-30-2018, 03:15 AM #9

With my 124 200D Limo with 5-speed manual gearbox I was able to go even below 5l/100km. On everyday use I always went at least 1100km before filling up the 70l Tank again. Its different with my 200D with stock automatic trans 722.4. It will never go more than 950km.

Tobulus

01-30-2018, 03:15 AM #9

iDiesel

Naturally-aspirated

13

01-31-2018, 04:09 AM #10

But this way I got big air leak from the box,I got 0,2 bar boost Big Grin

,so then I tried a vito om601 manifold

Which DID work,and I got 0,5-0,7bar boost ,but coud not close the bonnet,it just was too high...So we cutted that vito manifold to make this:

This worked good,so I painted it with spray can Big Grin

This is how it looks now,goes faster ,but not too impresive,need to take out the fuel pump or oil filter housing to Access back of the pump to adjust the rack travel

iDiesel

01-31-2018, 04:09 AM #10

I believe it is the automatic transmission which makes the consumption so big.
Ok I started to build the turbo:
This was the first setup,yes I was blowing directly into the old air box with cutted out filter leaving only gasket in there Big Grin

But this way I got big air leak from the box,I got 0,2 bar boost ,so then I tried a vito om601 manifold

Which DID work,and I got 0,5-0,7bar boost ,but coud not close the bonnet,it just was too high...So we cutted that vito manifold to make this:

This worked good,so I painted it with spray can Big Grin

This is how it looks now,goes faster ,but not too impresive,need to take out the fuel pump or oil filter housing to Access back of the pump to adjust the rack travel

Petar

7.5mm M pump

459

01-31-2018, 09:02 AM #11

When you turn the fuel up you will notice a huge difference.

If you remove the pump see how much a bosch shop would charge for bench adjustment. Since you can't adjust it on the engine you might get tired of removing and reinstalling the pump if you don't get something right.

This post was last modified: 01-31-2018, 09:03 AM by Petar.

Petar

01-31-2018, 09:02 AM #11

iDiesel

Naturally-aspirated

13

01-31-2018, 02:51 PM #12

I am now thinking about oil filter relocation ,so then it woud be possible to adjust pump on the car

iDiesel

01-31-2018, 02:51 PM #12

I am now thinking about oil filter relocation ,so then it woud be possible to adjust pump on the car

Tobulus

GT2256V

136

01-31-2018, 03:35 PM #13

With a hex Bit Ratchet, it is possible to adjust the pump without removing it from the engine

Tobulus

01-31-2018, 03:35 PM #13

With a hex Bit Ratchet, it is possible to adjust the pump without removing it from the engine

iDiesel

Naturally-aspirated

13

02-01-2018, 03:10 AM #14

Tobulus,i cannot even unscrew some screws from the back cover,maybe I did not try hard enough Big Grin

iDiesel

02-01-2018, 03:10 AM #14

Tobulus,i cannot even unscrew some screws from the back cover,maybe I did not try hard enough Big Grin

baldur

Fast

509

02-01-2018, 07:52 AM #15

Adjusting the pump on a 5 cylinder is okay, do-able but not much excess space. I can imagine it's pretty tight on a 4 cylinder.
I'm also curious as to why you went with a 4 cylinder. You've got a half metre of unused space in front of the engine Big Grin

Baldur Gislason

baldur

02-01-2018, 07:52 AM #15

Baldur Gislason

iDiesel

Naturally-aspirated

13

02-01-2018, 01:37 PM #16

I just got the engine for good money from my friend,also it is good to get to know diesels,also this is my first mercedes swap,before I worked mainly on bmw's.

iDiesel

02-01-2018, 01:37 PM #16

I just got the engine for good money from my friend,also it is good to get to know diesels,also this is my first mercedes swap,before I worked mainly on bmw's.

iDiesel

Naturally-aspirated

13

02-25-2018, 05:19 PM #17

it is much,much better than before.It was dark outside so i dont know about the smoke while driving but there werent much when i revved it in park so will see tommorow.I also got a problem,i cannot start my car when it's -10 celsius in the morning so in the night it is somewhere around -20celsius there...one time i heated glow plugs three times and hardly,but got it running...don't know what to do,glow plugs had been changed last year and then the engine sat in the shelf for one year so don't think glow plugs are the issue,I also have m111 starter motor,which is not turning the engine as fast as original starter does but it cranks it ok.

This post was last modified: 02-25-2018, 05:22 PM by iDiesel.

iDiesel

02-25-2018, 05:19 PM #17

Petar ,I did adjusted the pump as you said previously on your post,removed oil filter housing in order to do that and also intake manifold.So I turned out two turns max fueling screw and then the min throttle stop same amount,now the car drives like I changed it's engine Big Grin it is much,much better than before.It was dark outside so i dont know about the smoke while driving but there werent much when i revved it in park so will see tommorow.I also got a problem,i cannot start my car when it's -10 celsius in the morning so in the night it is somewhere around -20celsius there...one time i heated glow plugs three times and hardly,but got it running...don't know what to do,glow plugs had been changed last year and then the engine sat in the shelf for one year so don't think glow plugs are the issue,I also have m111 starter motor,which is not turning the engine as fast as original starter does but it cranks it ok.

Petar

7.5mm M pump

459

02-25-2018, 06:28 PM #18

I'm very glad that you are happy with the performance Big Grin

If you do have smoke while driving just ease into the throttle instead of stomping it. Basically you want to match the rate of rise of boost with the speed of your right foot Tongue

Just try it and you'll see what works best. How much boost are you making ? You can probably add a bit more fuel

As far as cold starting I would still check the glow plugs, also check pump timing and injectors. Does it just spin slowly or does it sound like it wants to catch ? When it does start does it run rough for a minute or does it run smooth immediately ? How much blowby does it have when you remove the oil filler cap while it's running ?
My old OM616 had a really hard time starting if it didn't spin fast. I had a starter so worn it wouldn't start at all below +5 Celsius. But if it started it would idle smoothlyy Rebuilt the starter and it made a huge difference.
On the other hand my OM605 seems to always start no matter how slowly it cranks. Had no problem starting at -15 C with one dead glow plug and a weak battery that would crank slowly. But it did run like crap for a minute or so. Now I'm installing a rebuilt head with new glow plugs and we'll see how well it starts.

BTW glow plugs are like light bulbs. They fail suddenly and without warning. A glow plug can work now and fail the next time you try to start your car. Easiest way to check without any special instruments is to disconnect them and use a wire from plus terminal on the starter and try each one. If they make a spark when you connect them they work Big Grin

If you do have an ohmmeter (or multimeter) you can also check the resistance, should be a bit less than 1 ohm but the exact resistance doesn't matter

This post was last modified: 02-25-2018, 06:45 PM by Petar.

Petar

02-25-2018, 06:28 PM #18

I'm very glad that you are happy with the performance Big Grin If you do have smoke while driving just ease into the throttle instead of stomping it. Basically you want to match the rate of rise of boost with the speed of your right foot Tongue Just try it and you'll see what works best. How much boost are you making ? You can probably add a bit more fuel

As far as cold starting I would still check the glow plugs, also check pump timing and injectors. Does it just spin slowly or does it sound like it wants to catch ? When it does start does it run rough for a minute or does it run smooth immediately ? How much blowby does it have when you remove the oil filler cap while it's running ?
My old OM616 had a really hard time starting if it didn't spin fast. I had a starter so worn it wouldn't start at all below +5 Celsius. But if it started it would idle smoothlyy Rebuilt the starter and it made a huge difference.
On the other hand my OM605 seems to always start no matter how slowly it cranks. Had no problem starting at -15 C with one dead glow plug and a weak battery that would crank slowly. But it did run like crap for a minute or so. Now I'm installing a rebuilt head with new glow plugs and we'll see how well it starts.

BTW glow plugs are like light bulbs. They fail suddenly and without warning. A glow plug can work now and fail the next time you try to start your car. Easiest way to check without any special instruments is to disconnect them and use a wire from plus terminal on the starter and try each one. If they make a spark when you connect them they work Big Grin
If you do have an ohmmeter (or multimeter) you can also check the resistance, should be a bit less than 1 ohm but the exact resistance doesn't matter

iDiesel

Naturally-aspirated

13

02-26-2018, 08:47 AM #19

Ok thanks,will test them.When it starts it rund perfect ,it wants to start,but then the starter starts to crank it really really slow and it doesnt start,maybe the real problem is the m111 starter motor...

iDiesel

02-26-2018, 08:47 AM #19

iDiesel

Naturally-aspirated

13

03-31-2018, 11:52 AM #20

engine in s124

Everything,everywhere

Here'sone of the spots rusted,welded,painted

Put in poly bushings from s202 subframe,all fits just fine,only differential bushings are different,bought new meyle HD.

I removed hydraulically adjustable rear shocks,because the tubes and everything was rusted and messed up,fitted my s202 standart shocks,now it sits a bit high ,like a jeep Big Grin

i kinda like it,dont know how it will drive,in front there's new springs and the car had an om603 in it,so its basically 300D and the springs dont feel my little om601 at all : Big Grin

But about the rears i dont know why they so high Dodgy

anyway,thats not the biggest worries here,let's take a look in the interior

Crazy,right? Big Grin

ok,yesterday started to put in interior,this far i have come for now.

Also,i fitted the same 722.4 gearbox,hooked up radiator lines and didnt add any fluid,when i took out engine from s202 i lost probabbly liter or two of oil,checked the level before driving out of the garage on the w124 it was ok,yesterday i was driving out of garage again and the car just stopped and wont move...i dont know what happened,oil on the dipstick - bubbles,so basicaly foam,and the one of cooling hoses started to leak,tried to add more fluid - no change,i think i even overfilled it,maybe theres some kind of solution to this?I alredy bought another 722,4 if will need it...but better woud like to fix old one without removing it Big Grin

Also,when i put it in D,it does nothing,engine rpms change a bit ,then when i want to put it in the park,it makes noise like it wants to catch into something ,like a gearbox is spinning free inside but not turining the propshaft,so theres no load and like that...i dont get it,it just stopped,wasnt showing anything that bad that it will die...it was whinning in cold winter but still ran perfectly.

iDiesel

03-31-2018, 11:52 AM #20

I was getting tired of fixing rust on the plain s202 metal,the rust grow by seconds not hours not days,so decided to buy a s124 without engine and interior ,got it from friend,got to weld this one too,but the metal is much thickier than on 202 and are more easy to fix rusted places.So plan was to get off s202 everything and put that everything on s124 so thats basically engine,brakes,poly bushings,transmission,differential.
Here's s202 taking out engine

engine in s124

Everything,everywhere

Here'sone of the spots rusted,welded,painted

Put in poly bushings from s202 subframe,all fits just fine,only differential bushings are different,bought new meyle HD.

I removed hydraulically adjustable rear shocks,because the tubes and everything was rusted and messed up,fitted my s202 standart shocks,now it sits a bit high ,like a jeep Big Grin i kinda like it,dont know how it will drive,in front there's new springs and the car had an om603 in it,so its basically 300D and the springs dont feel my little om601 at all : But about the rears i dont know why they so high Dodgy

anyway,thats not the biggest worries here,let's take a look in the interior

Crazy,right? Big Grin
ok,yesterday started to put in interior,this far i have come for now.

Also,i fitted the same 722.4 gearbox,hooked up radiator lines and didnt add any fluid,when i took out engine from s202 i lost probabbly liter or two of oil,checked the level before driving out of the garage on the w124 it was ok,yesterday i was driving out of garage again and the car just stopped and wont move...i dont know what happened,oil on the dipstick - bubbles,so basicaly foam,and the one of cooling hoses started to leak,tried to add more fluid - no change,i think i even overfilled it,maybe theres some kind of solution to this?I alredy bought another 722,4 if will need it...but better woud like to fix old one without removing it Big Grin Also,when i put it in D,it does nothing,engine rpms change a bit ,then when i want to put it in the park,it makes noise like it wants to catch into something ,like a gearbox is spinning free inside but not turining the propshaft,so theres no load and like that...i dont get it,it just stopped,wasnt showing anything that bad that it will die...it was whinning in cold winter but still ran perfectly.

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