IP Full Load Adjustment Procedure for the MW and M pumps
IP Full Load Adjustment Procedure for the MW and M pumps
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
06-18-2012, 01:26 AM #201Awesome. I am so glad you are around, OM616 to help us!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
The first post on this thread it calls the rack limiter as "full load" and says to turn clockwise for more fuel but in subsequent posts people are reporting they are turning it counter clockwise.
What is the correct direction to get more fuel?
(I don't want to remove the rack limiter)
I'm confused about the rack limiter adjustment. I've read OM616 document and it doesn't say what clockwise adjustment does vs. counter clockwise.
The first post on this thread it calls the rack limiter as "full load" and says to turn clockwise for more fuel but in subsequent posts people are reporting they are turning it counter clockwise.
What is the correct direction to get more fuel?
(I don't want to remove the rack limiter)
The car is baptised ´Dragoncito´, little dragon, and has an OM662 2.9 TDi indirect injected, with 5,5 mm. M-type IP.
With K&N filter/ non operative EGR and oil catch tank in the PCV , the pump mods I started with were:
- 3/4 CCW on 25
- 1,5 CCW on ALDA
- idle reset with PLA (29)
Then I fitted an MBC and set the boost at 0.8 bar from 0.5.
Replaced the mufflers with a straight through resonator (just thát gave a 100 rpm increase in idle speed; some pumping losses!!).
To make use of the added air flow I went to phase two on the IP:
First
- set the ALDA back to standard
- set the PLA (29) back to standard
Then
- 1 turn CCW extra on 25
- 1,5 turn CCW on 28
- 2 turns CCW on 50
- 1 turn CW on 23
- idle set at 850 rpm. with PLA
Total:
- ALDA standard
- 23 1 turn CW
- 25 1,75 turn CCW
- 28 1,5 turn CCW
- 50 2 turn CW
The proof of the driving:
- No need for extra throttle to pull away; just let the clutch come up smootly and it will drive off.
- It happily ambles along at 850 rpm in third and will accept carefull acceleration and at 1500 rpm you can put your foot down.
- It will pull strongly and constantly from 2500 to 4200, then tails off to the max of 4500 rpm.
I have not done accurate, proper 1/4 mile timings but a few q&d runs put roughly 135 km/h as terminal speed.
The accelerometer app on a friend´s phone says 175 bhp., but I haven´t got a clue what it is programmed to calculate; at the crank, at the wheels or what???
Whether those numbers are about right does not realy matter though as the proof of the car is in the driving and it dives gréat.
Thanks for reading.
Petrus
Huertecilla
02-08-2013, 01:47 PM #203With thanks to all of you sharing so much useful info, I will share the mods to my fun project.
The car is baptised ´Dragoncito´, little dragon, and has an OM662 2.9 TDi indirect injected, with 5,5 mm. M-type IP.
With K&N filter/ non operative EGR and oil catch tank in the PCV , the pump mods I started with were:
- 3/4 CCW on 25
- 1,5 CCW on ALDA
- idle reset with PLA (29)
Then I fitted an MBC and set the boost at 0.8 bar from 0.5.
Replaced the mufflers with a straight through resonator (just thát gave a 100 rpm increase in idle speed; some pumping losses!!).
To make use of the added air flow I went to phase two on the IP:
First
- set the ALDA back to standard
- set the PLA (29) back to standard
Then
- 1 turn CCW extra on 25
- 1,5 turn CCW on 28
- 2 turns CCW on 50
- 1 turn CW on 23
- idle set at 850 rpm. with PLA
Total:
- ALDA standard
- 23 1 turn CW
- 25 1,75 turn CCW
- 28 1,5 turn CCW
- 50 2 turn CW
The proof of the driving:
- No need for extra throttle to pull away; just let the clutch come up smootly and it will drive off.
- It happily ambles along at 850 rpm in third and will accept carefull acceleration and at 1500 rpm you can put your foot down.
- It will pull strongly and constantly from 2500 to 4200, then tails off to the max of 4500 rpm.
I have not done accurate, proper 1/4 mile timings but a few q&d runs put roughly 135 km/h as terminal speed.
The accelerometer app on a friend´s phone says 175 bhp., but I haven´t got a clue what it is programmed to calculate; at the crank, at the wheels or what???
Whether those numbers are about right does not realy matter though as the proof of the car is in the driving and it dives gréat.
Thanks for reading.
Petrus
For on 617.
When converting from MW to M pump the size bolt needed to block of oil line at the block?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-01-2013, 08:37 AM #204Anybody know?.....
For on 617.
When converting from MW to M pump the size bolt needed to block of oil line at the block?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
What I already did:
2turns ccw on the full load (bottom left) screw and
2turns on the idle stabilizer(?) (top right) screw.
Smoke is quite heavy on no boost. But there's no Alda on my pump yet.
It's a European 603 so it would be possible to turn the full load screw 5 turns ccw and the same for the idle stabilizer? I need some good idle.
The reason I want more fuel, at approx 0.5 bar pressure the smoke is gone. I am currently pushing 1.5 bar pressure. So I recon is needs some fuel.
Okay, my 603 is my daily driver at the moment... Fitted a hx35w and 7mm plunjers. I need some adjustment advice I wanna do in the weekend.
What I already did:
2turns ccw on the full load (bottom left) screw and
2turns on the idle stabilizer(?) (top right) screw.
Smoke is quite heavy on no boost. But there's no Alda on my pump yet.
It's a European 603 so it would be possible to turn the full load screw 5 turns ccw and the same for the idle stabilizer? I need some good idle.
The reason I want more fuel, at approx 0.5 bar pressure the smoke is gone. I am currently pushing 1.5 bar pressure. So I recon is needs some fuel.
The difference is amazing! Loads of power and wheelspin. I'm very pleased.
The only problem now is that if I rev it unloaded above 3000 it won't return to idle but keeps revving. It's like cruise control
the other problem is that it killed the tranny completely. It's seized. Shifting from N to D really quick till it shifts to second gear and then it's driveable. No excuses for a manual tranny anymore.
Okay, I did 4 turns in total. And the idle restore screw (2k) 2 turns.
The difference is amazing! Loads of power and wheelspin. I'm very pleased.
The only problem now is that if I rev it unloaded above 3000 it won't return to idle but keeps revving. It's like cruise control the other problem is that it killed the tranny completely. It's seized. Shifting from N to D really quick till it shifts to second gear and then it's driveable. No excuses for a manual tranny anymore.
kjuuteboom
08-16-2014, 07:12 AM #208i did also, 2.5 ccw (2f)full load and (2b)2.5ccw idle quantity, and 2 ccw (2k) idling auxiliary spring, and it changed slower, and now i tried to but it back like 1.5 it was more slower, and put it more back to factory setings, and it stayd (2f) 0.5ccw and 0.5 ccw (2b) and 0 (2k) and its so slow, 0-100 you can measure with a calender, i have w124 '94 om606.910 european ofc, 600-1600rpm there is no power, "real" power is only between 2000rpm-3600rpm(cutoff??), and max rpm are now 4500(was 5500), boost is much lower, from stop to 20kmh(rpm around 2000) takes like 5+ sec, before was instantly.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
09-17-2014, 01:05 PM #209Can somebody amend the first post of this thread, or re-post it, so the descriptions of the adjustments match the labels on the picture (MW)? Also, the picture of the back of the MW pump has 7 labels and underneath it there are 9 adjustments, its causing me some confusion. Also, I can't make any sense of "turning 'x' clockwise increases pressure on the flyweights", what does this mean? Is this good or bad?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
(09-17-2014, 01:05 PM)sassparilla_kid Can somebody amend the first post of this thread, or re-post it, so the descriptions of the adjustments match the labels on the picture (MW)? Also, the picture of the back of the MW pump has 7 labels and underneath it there are 9 adjustments, its causing me some confusion. Also, I can't make any sense of "turning 'x' clockwise increases pressure on the flyweights", what does this mean? Is this good or bad?
That is lance's bad info, should be deleted IMOP. It is worthless and only results in loss of control of the governor.
(09-17-2014, 01:05 PM)sassparilla_kid Can somebody amend the first post of this thread, or re-post it, so the descriptions of the adjustments match the labels on the picture (MW)? Also, the picture of the back of the MW pump has 7 labels and underneath it there are 9 adjustments, its causing me some confusion. Also, I can't make any sense of "turning 'x' clockwise increases pressure on the flyweights", what does this mean? Is this good or bad?
That is lance's bad info, should be deleted IMOP. It is worthless and only results in loss of control of the governor.
A new thread should be made incorporating, with his permission, OM616's MW tuning document. With spelling and grammar corrections :-p
raysorenson
09-17-2014, 06:26 PM #211I firmly second this. I do a lot of web searching and it's obvious that there are tons of folks removing aldas and rack limiters because of info on this thread. I guess the funny part is how often they declare success after doing these things. It only serves to perpetuate more hamfisted pump mods.
A new thread should be made incorporating, with his permission, OM616's MW tuning document. With spelling and grammar corrections :-p
I think some better pictures of the back of the IP with better labels, and maybe some arrows on there saying "moves fueling up/down" and "after adjusting this, you're probably gonna need to adjust this guy over here, turn this way for 'x' results"
If that makes sense
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
09-19-2014, 02:32 PM #212I mean I've read through the document several times but then I look at the picture in this thread to help visualize when I'm reading and then it's hands in the air nothing makes sense
I think some better pictures of the back of the IP with better labels, and maybe some arrows on there saying "moves fueling up/down" and "after adjusting this, you're probably gonna need to adjust this guy over here, turn this way for 'x' results"
If that makes sense
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
(09-19-2014, 02:32 PM)sassparilla_kid I mean I've read through the document several times but then I look at the picture in this thread to help visualize when I'm reading and then it's hands in the air nothing makes sense...
I have a OM617 in a Land Rover 110 and like everyone else would like to get more power, perhaps the 160 HP being claimed from the stock MW pump.
Am running an intercooler with the stock KKK Turbo (which seems to spool up boost faster than the Garett.
This weekend I drove from Asheville, NC to Chesapeake, VA and was able to go between 70 and 85 MPH on the interstate.
I have read every post on the thread and am still unsure as to what to do.
Some have said adjust out the ALDA, others leave it alone and make other adjustments. Not sure where to proceed.
Has anyone tried one of those waste gate pressure bleed off valves to gain more boost? I did experiment with blocking off the wastegate and it caused what I think was a pop-off type relief valve to dump the boost which was terrible. Would the bleed off cause the relief valve to dump all the boost if the wastegate remains closed and lets higher boost build?
Any advice is welcome.
rdavisinva
10-06-2014, 07:53 PM #213(09-19-2014, 02:32 PM)sassparilla_kid I mean I've read through the document several times but then I look at the picture in this thread to help visualize when I'm reading and then it's hands in the air nothing makes sense...
I have a OM617 in a Land Rover 110 and like everyone else would like to get more power, perhaps the 160 HP being claimed from the stock MW pump.
Am running an intercooler with the stock KKK Turbo (which seems to spool up boost faster than the Garett.
This weekend I drove from Asheville, NC to Chesapeake, VA and was able to go between 70 and 85 MPH on the interstate.
I have read every post on the thread and am still unsure as to what to do.
Some have said adjust out the ALDA, others leave it alone and make other adjustments. Not sure where to proceed.
Has anyone tried one of those waste gate pressure bleed off valves to gain more boost? I did experiment with blocking off the wastegate and it caused what I think was a pop-off type relief valve to dump the boost which was terrible. Would the bleed off cause the relief valve to dump all the boost if the wastegate remains closed and lets higher boost build?
Any advice is welcome.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
10-07-2014, 02:24 AM #214There's manual boost controllers all over ebay, pick up a cheap one and slap it on there, its how most everybody is able to get more boost with stock turbos. Without more fuel though it doesn't really do very much :/
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
10-07-2014, 04:08 AM #215You don't need a manual bleed valve for a KKK, just adjust the wastegate with a wrench and a allen.
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
(10-07-2014, 02:24 AM)sassparilla_kid There's manual boost controllers all over ebay, pick up a cheap one and slap it on there, its how most everybody is able to get more boost with stock turbos. Without more fuel though it doesn't really do very much :/
Hooked up a manual boost controller last night and the turbo will spool up to 10 PSI without any issues, so now it is time to "adjust the fuel".
But how? Not sure where to begin...
(10-07-2014, 04:08 AM)mike-81-240d You don't need a manual bleed valve for a KKK, just adjust the wastegate with a wrench and a allen.
Saw this post after installing a manual boost controller, but will try the allen screw KKK wastegate adjustment.
rdavisinva
10-07-2014, 02:26 PM #216(10-07-2014, 02:24 AM)sassparilla_kid There's manual boost controllers all over ebay, pick up a cheap one and slap it on there, its how most everybody is able to get more boost with stock turbos. Without more fuel though it doesn't really do very much :/
Hooked up a manual boost controller last night and the turbo will spool up to 10 PSI without any issues, so now it is time to "adjust the fuel".
But how? Not sure where to begin...
(10-07-2014, 04:08 AM)mike-81-240d You don't need a manual bleed valve for a KKK, just adjust the wastegate with a wrench and a allen.
Saw this post after installing a manual boost controller, but will try the allen screw KKK wastegate adjustment.
(10-07-2014, 04:08 AM)mike-81-240d You don't need a manual bleed valve for a KKK, just adjust the wastegate with a wrench and a allen.
I don't recommend adjusting the wastegate to raise the boost. It has a very small effect until you have compressed the spring enough to restrict the maximum opening of the valve. You'll get better response using a proper boost controller.
Baldur Gislason
(10-07-2014, 04:08 AM)mike-81-240d You don't need a manual bleed valve for a KKK, just adjust the wastegate with a wrench and a allen.
I don't recommend adjusting the wastegate to raise the boost. It has a very small effect until you have compressed the spring enough to restrict the maximum opening of the valve. You'll get better response using a proper boost controller.
Baldur Gislason
(10-13-2014, 10:11 AM)baldur I don't recommend adjusting the wastegate to raise the boost. It has a very small effect until you have compressed the spring enough to restrict the maximum opening of the valve. You'll get better response using a proper boost controller.
The manual boost controller worked fine.
Am still in conservative boost with about 12 PSI max.
Would like to adjust the fuel pump to add more fuel, but unlike the rotary pumps with one adjustment, the MW OM617 has multiple adjustments and am not sure where to begin.
rdavisinva
10-17-2014, 02:07 PM #218(10-13-2014, 10:11 AM)baldur I don't recommend adjusting the wastegate to raise the boost. It has a very small effect until you have compressed the spring enough to restrict the maximum opening of the valve. You'll get better response using a proper boost controller.
The manual boost controller worked fine.
Am still in conservative boost with about 12 PSI max.
Would like to adjust the fuel pump to add more fuel, but unlike the rotary pumps with one adjustment, the MW OM617 has multiple adjustments and am not sure where to begin.
I have played around with a MW pump alot and am very comfortable with adjusting one. BUT, I am now moving on to a M pump on a 603 and am looking for how to get some more fuel to it.
I have watched dieselmekens video that he put on youtube of him adjusting a 6mm pump, and as i would love to adjust my pump this way, I have no test bench to put my pump on and adjust it.
So what have ya'll done?
I would love some input from anyone with experience, or dieselmeken himself
I have plans in the summer to order a set of 7.5mm elements from dieselmeken and put it on a test bench and adjust it that way, but I can't leave it stock for that long. I am too impatient
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Alright guys, I need some schooling.
I have played around with a MW pump alot and am very comfortable with adjusting one. BUT, I am now moving on to a M pump on a 603 and am looking for how to get some more fuel to it.
I have watched dieselmekens video that he put on youtube of him adjusting a 6mm pump, and as i would love to adjust my pump this way, I have no test bench to put my pump on and adjust it.
So what have ya'll done?
I would love some input from anyone with experience, or dieselmeken himself
I have plans in the summer to order a set of 7.5mm elements from dieselmeken and put it on a test bench and adjust it that way, but I can't leave it stock for that long. I am too impatient
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
I want just a little more off the line and maybe a little better on hills. I drive 200 miles to work, and 200 back, plus in and around miles, once a week so i am in the car about 8 hours a week total.
reddogracing
07-09-2015, 09:40 AM #221I too will be searching for some simple adjustments for modest gains. 1992 300D 2.5, i do not yet have all the terminolgy that is thrown out, so not sure what a lot of these numbers are or what i have. my plan is to remove EGR and block it off, also remove all the stock vaccum controls for the waste gate and replace with a pressure controler.
I want just a little more off the line and maybe a little better on hills. I drive 200 miles to work, and 200 back, plus in and around miles, once a week so i am in the car about 8 hours a week total.
At first I thought that engine is toast and I need to replace it. After I opened up engine I found that timing chain do to wear on camshaft sprocket jumped and consequently broke the chain. To make story short I was able to resurrect that engine. Once I got it running I decided to give some more fuel so I adjusted fuel screw 2.5 turns. Well, results where just outstanding. Difference in between my dd and new acquisition was like day and night. So obviously I wanted to know what made such a difference. I adjusted fuel up on my dd and it was some improvement but not close. So I checked engine timing. I have those clamp on piezo sensor and I was surprised that my great performer timing was 23 deg. BTDC at idle! Then I check static advance and it was 6 deg. ATDC. I went and advance timing on my dd but couldn't get close so I ended up with 19 deg. BTDC. I went for test drive. Difference was remarkable. Boost comes very early and car just goes. My fuel milage dropped by whole 1 liter to 8 l/100 km in town! I still drive with this tune and after adding CeraTec fuel consumption dropped additional 0.2 l/ 100km. This is was first time ever tuneup in the can delivered any results. Engine runs quitter and smoother as well.
I know this is way out of what factory settings are and anybody would recommend. Just saying this what I have done to my cars and it works for over two years.
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
I have a two of the same and I was able to tune them to be quite pleasure to drive. I had a one at first and it was very docile. I accepted that how it is. Then I got a second one with seized engine.
At first I thought that engine is toast and I need to replace it. After I opened up engine I found that timing chain do to wear on camshaft sprocket jumped and consequently broke the chain. To make story short I was able to resurrect that engine. Once I got it running I decided to give some more fuel so I adjusted fuel screw 2.5 turns. Well, results where just outstanding. Difference in between my dd and new acquisition was like day and night. So obviously I wanted to know what made such a difference. I adjusted fuel up on my dd and it was some improvement but not close. So I checked engine timing. I have those clamp on piezo sensor and I was surprised that my great performer timing was 23 deg. BTDC at idle! Then I check static advance and it was 6 deg. ATDC. I went and advance timing on my dd but couldn't get close so I ended up with 19 deg. BTDC. I went for test drive. Difference was remarkable. Boost comes very early and car just goes. My fuel milage dropped by whole 1 liter to 8 l/100 km in town! I still drive with this tune and after adding CeraTec fuel consumption dropped additional 0.2 l/ 100km. This is was first time ever tuneup in the can delivered any results. Engine runs quitter and smoother as well.
I know this is way out of what factory settings are and anybody would recommend. Just saying this what I have done to my cars and it works for over two years.
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
It is adjusted to about 20 psi. I done that to avoid changing factory waste gate control from vacuum to pressure pod.
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
I just wanted to add that for boost control I am using Hobbs switch and vacuum valve controlled by it.
It is adjusted to about 20 psi. I done that to avoid changing factory waste gate control from vacuum to pressure pod.
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
1980 300 SD,recent 1983 motor install. 2005 Triumph Bonneville.
Hi guys need a lil help. 1983 w116 om617. engine was missing a lil, rough idle in 2011. thats the last time it was driven. October 2016 Rebuilt inject nozzles with monarch . installed . bleed. start test drive. a lil miss now. I adjusted valves . slightly out. ok now. . So to finalize I am timing IP just to cover all bases. I am using a Haynes repair manual for procedures. In 2010 this 1980 W116 engine had a bad knock. So I put in a OM617 from 83. Then The IP was timed and running like a double stitch sewing machine. puurrrrring . Now during the procedure I am not getting any fuel from my IP drip spout tool. An earlier post states to remove Pump and check timing. Dont really want to do this since the front of the IP was timed a few years ago. Any Ideas would help. Thanks Quinn
1980 300 SD,recent 1983 motor install. 2005 Triumph Bonneville.
A friend of mine managed to blow a rod out the side of his 350SD w140 engine block last year. So he purchased a 500€ E300Turbodiesel w210 and I put that engine into his 140. It is kind of a quick-n-dirty installation, but is working very nice so far. Turbo was equipped with a pressure actuator and injection pump came off the 350. When I swapped the ip in, I kind of "blindly" turned out both the coarse-idle and the full-load screws by three full turns. That was quite a lucky shot, engine idles nice at 500 rpm without elr-magnet, starts up on the first stroke and has a lot of torque from the start (tires spinning easily without using the brake pedal).
However, compared to my project-om605-124 this engine seems pretty tired at higher revs (it will rev to 5600rpm) and it feels pretty weak at 100kph/60mph. It will not produce any smoke under boost, which is set to 1bar, but a lot without boost.
So today I thought I give it a shot. Unmounted the elr magnet and the back cover (what a hassle, couldnt unmount the cruise control actuator). Turned out the full load screw by another 2 turns, but the cover wont fit anymore. So turned the screw another 0.75 turns in, installed the cover. Tried to turn the coarse idle screw out by 1.25 turns, but was at the end of the thread after only a few degrees. Reinstalled the magnet, started the engine, idles nicely. Reved up, but it took the engine a full minute to come down to idle again. Hate. Unmounted everything again, and turned the full load screw it by bit in. Now it will rev down to idle a bit slow, but ok. Turned out the alda 2 turns which led to a lot of smoke off boost. But still not happy with the power output of this engine. Yes, throttle linkage reaches both idle and full load positions.
So this is pretty much the maximum I can fet from the ip? Or should I try the torque control, too?
First of all I have to say, these mechanical pumps are a nightmare to tune compared to the electronic pumps. On those, you just write a new set of chips in a couple of minutes and you get exactly what you mapped...
A friend of mine managed to blow a rod out the side of his 350SD w140 engine block last year. So he purchased a 500€ E300Turbodiesel w210 and I put that engine into his 140. It is kind of a quick-n-dirty installation, but is working very nice so far. Turbo was equipped with a pressure actuator and injection pump came off the 350. When I swapped the ip in, I kind of "blindly" turned out both the coarse-idle and the full-load screws by three full turns. That was quite a lucky shot, engine idles nice at 500 rpm without elr-magnet, starts up on the first stroke and has a lot of torque from the start (tires spinning easily without using the brake pedal).
However, compared to my project-om605-124 this engine seems pretty tired at higher revs (it will rev to 5600rpm) and it feels pretty weak at 100kph/60mph. It will not produce any smoke under boost, which is set to 1bar, but a lot without boost.
So today I thought I give it a shot. Unmounted the elr magnet and the back cover (what a hassle, couldnt unmount the cruise control actuator). Turned out the full load screw by another 2 turns, but the cover wont fit anymore. So turned the screw another 0.75 turns in, installed the cover. Tried to turn the coarse idle screw out by 1.25 turns, but was at the end of the thread after only a few degrees. Reinstalled the magnet, started the engine, idles nicely. Reved up, but it took the engine a full minute to come down to idle again. Hate. Unmounted everything again, and turned the full load screw it by bit in. Now it will rev down to idle a bit slow, but ok. Turned out the alda 2 turns which led to a lot of smoke off boost. But still not happy with the power output of this engine. Yes, throttle linkage reaches both idle and full load positions.
So this is pretty much the maximum I can fet from the ip? Or should I try the torque control, too?
we can make a trade , the knowledge for VE´s edc VP´s or whatever electronic pump u have , for the mechanichal rsf governor.
Most M pumps with mech governor are 5.5mm injection elements, wich difer in part number from pump to pump, being the ones that can inject the max quantity those found in the 602/3 turbo engines.
The diference from a VE 10mm injection head is the overall output, thats why usually people with the rotary style pumps end up with enough fuel. As a comparison a stock 10mm VE found in most TDI with the right Cam plate will inject something around 90cc when tested against 210bar injector tester, when moving the ring to the max position, well the M pump found in the 602 turbo engine with the 5.5mm will at most inject 60cc (605/6 use 65cc max in stock config) with full rack movement, 18/19mm (it is possible to achieve 21mm rack travel) for the same conditions.
Usually i built M pumps with 7,5 and 8mm elements able to pump as much as 200cc and in this case fuel is not such a problem, on the other hand i can only build 12mm VE´s at 140cc , and with a lot of magic tricks behind.
Another matter u must adress is the engine size, a MB engine is a beast compared to a Audi 2.0 or even a v6, so with the right tune, MB will be tunable far twice just by adding fuel.
Your problem rely on the Pump element , no mater the screw u turn that pump u have will never be able to inject 90cc which is the minimum u need in the 606 to turn it alive, real alive.
Basically u have 2 solutions : keep that pump maximised, or send it to someone to rebuilt it with wider elements.
To maximise that pump u can remove the throtle stop screw(outside the pump, is the physical limit of the lever)then u open the governor and unscrew all way out the secondary throtle spring.
unscrew all the way out the rack control screw. then u must start the engine without the side cover , watch the rack behaviour , only with this mods it should ride the the total travel rack travel when u push the THR to max position, if not screw in the tq capsule, but never loose controll of the tq capsule initial position.
probably it wont idle well after that but that can be treated later on. it will spill oil , but nothing special.
(remember once the rack travels full travel pump is maxed out as much as u can without the bench tester)
anything else PM me.
FD,
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hello tobulus,
we can make a trade , the knowledge for VE´s edc VP´s or whatever electronic pump u have , for the mechanichal rsf governor.
Most M pumps with mech governor are 5.5mm injection elements, wich difer in part number from pump to pump, being the ones that can inject the max quantity those found in the 602/3 turbo engines.
The diference from a VE 10mm injection head is the overall output, thats why usually people with the rotary style pumps end up with enough fuel. As a comparison a stock 10mm VE found in most TDI with the right Cam plate will inject something around 90cc when tested against 210bar injector tester, when moving the ring to the max position, well the M pump found in the 602 turbo engine with the 5.5mm will at most inject 60cc (605/6 use 65cc max in stock config) with full rack movement, 18/19mm (it is possible to achieve 21mm rack travel) for the same conditions.
Usually i built M pumps with 7,5 and 8mm elements able to pump as much as 200cc and in this case fuel is not such a problem, on the other hand i can only build 12mm VE´s at 140cc , and with a lot of magic tricks behind.
Another matter u must adress is the engine size, a MB engine is a beast compared to a Audi 2.0 or even a v6, so with the right tune, MB will be tunable far twice just by adding fuel.
Your problem rely on the Pump element , no mater the screw u turn that pump u have will never be able to inject 90cc which is the minimum u need in the 606 to turn it alive, real alive.
Basically u have 2 solutions : keep that pump maximised, or send it to someone to rebuilt it with wider elements.
To maximise that pump u can remove the throtle stop screw(outside the pump, is the physical limit of the lever)then u open the governor and unscrew all way out the secondary throtle spring.
unscrew all the way out the rack control screw. then u must start the engine without the side cover , watch the rack behaviour , only with this mods it should ride the the total travel rack travel when u push the THR to max position, if not screw in the tq capsule, but never loose controll of the tq capsule initial position.
probably it wont idle well after that but that can be treated later on. it will spill oil , but nothing special.
(remember once the rack travels full travel pump is maxed out as much as u can without the bench tester)
anything else PM me.
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
I have no secrets on my knowledge, I do not earn money with it. So if you or anyone else has any questions on remapping, deimmo and stuff on our engines, maybe I can help.
Thank you for all that Information. I will go down that route, but probably not on this engine. The car is a daily and the owner is quite happy with the power it makes, so i am a bit shy to try mods that can put the car out of service. Wider elements seem more like the way to go for this car.
I have no secrets on my knowledge, I do not earn money with it. So if you or anyone else has any questions on remapping, deimmo and stuff on our engines, maybe I can help.
my 87 190 DT's IP gave out last year with 220K miles on it, 90K mile with 1/4 diesel/WVO mix ! Just picked up a new looking pump off Ebay. Before I put it in I want to do the IP pump improvement adjustments.
My engine has no EGR, K&N air filter with no AFM (top of air cleaner with AFM was replace with the top form a 95 300E with out AFM), match ported exhaust manifold, intake, turbo, no exhaust resonator, crankcase oil catch can, Monarch 314 nozzles set at 2250 psi, was running 2.5 Deg's more timing, Have a 10 psi pre pump at the tank with 1/2 in. tank out let, compression is 425 Lbs on all 5 cylinder, t-chain has 75 K miles on it. I was running 14 Lbs boost with an electric boost/EGT gauge, also monitor incoming fuel pressure and temp. And I did play with the ALDL and plan upon reusing the on off my car, like the way it ran with that adjustment.
I do not want to max it out, just get more power & dO NOT want to remove it to make any final adjustments.
(It's a PITA in this car!!!)
I was considering a bench adjustment of 2 CW on #50, 1.5 CCW on #28, !CW on 23, 1.75 CCW on #25.
I installed a 16V fuel tank and use to get 400 miles a tank in town S.F. CA. & 660 mile a tank on the freeway running with everyone else in the fast lane.
Any solid recommendations would much be appreciated!!!
tinchariot
05-03-2018, 08:17 PM #228Hi All
my 87 190 DT's IP gave out last year with 220K miles on it, 90K mile with 1/4 diesel/WVO mix ! Just picked up a new looking pump off Ebay. Before I put it in I want to do the IP pump improvement adjustments.
My engine has no EGR, K&N air filter with no AFM (top of air cleaner with AFM was replace with the top form a 95 300E with out AFM), match ported exhaust manifold, intake, turbo, no exhaust resonator, crankcase oil catch can, Monarch 314 nozzles set at 2250 psi, was running 2.5 Deg's more timing, Have a 10 psi pre pump at the tank with 1/2 in. tank out let, compression is 425 Lbs on all 5 cylinder, t-chain has 75 K miles on it. I was running 14 Lbs boost with an electric boost/EGT gauge, also monitor incoming fuel pressure and temp. And I did play with the ALDL and plan upon reusing the on off my car, like the way it ran with that adjustment.
I do not want to max it out, just get more power & dO NOT want to remove it to make any final adjustments.
(It's a PITA in this car!!!)
I was considering a bench adjustment of 2 CW on #50, 1.5 CCW on #28, !CW on 23, 1.75 CCW on #25.
I installed a 16V fuel tank and use to get 400 miles a tank in town S.F. CA. & 660 mile a tank on the freeway running with everyone else in the fast lane.
Any solid recommendations would much be appreciated!!!
(05-03-2018, 08:17 PM)tinchariot Before I put it in I want to do the IP pump improvement adjustments.You cannot tune these pumps outside of the car. You need a properly installed EGT gauge (TIT, pyrometer, whatever you want to call it) and you need to drive the car with the pump installed to tune it. Don't touch any adjustments until the pump is in the car and you've driven it for a baseline.
(05-03-2018, 08:17 PM)tinchariot Before I put it in I want to do the IP pump improvement adjustments.You cannot tune these pumps outside of the car. You need a properly installed EGT gauge (TIT, pyrometer, whatever you want to call it) and you need to drive the car with the pump installed to tune it. Don't touch any adjustments until the pump is in the car and you've driven it for a baseline.
https://www.benzworld.org/threads/inject...t-16670649
This writeup looks a lot like the one from ForcedInduction but without as much detail.
https://www.benzworld.org/threads/inject...t-16670649
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