Jeep Wrangler YJ om606 swap

STD Other Projects Jeep Wrangler YJ om606 swap

View a Printable Version

0 Vote(s) - 0 Average

skrubis

Naturally-aspirated

13

11-01-2018, 06:31 PM #1

I wanted to go with the om603 pump, but realized I don't want to fuck around the fuel delivery adjustment and not that controllable emissions to make it road legal.

I decided to buy the Baldurs DSL1 and sold the om603 pump on ebay to finance the DSL1 purchase.

[Image: TiBnQk9.jpg]

I have since put a lot of accessories and sandblasted everything.

I started (and almost finished) drawing my own adapter in solidworks with help of some of the members here, but given my now employed ass and lack of will to put together the assembly at least a dozen times to get everything were it needs to be I chose to go with a commercial adapter package.

I ordered the OM606 to AX15 adapter from mercedesdiesel4x4. That thing was expensive AF to get to EU, totaling about 1200EUR. There are some engineering choices I do not agree with and some parts of the workmanship leave more to be wanted for the price. The starter was not fitting well and had to be ground out. The allegedly "good to go" flywheel had to have 8grams removed to balance it. It feels like it is made out of a very soft steel and all the 8.8 hardware that's included for the flywheel given the length of the spacer+flywheel assembly seems sketchy. The weld marks on the plates seem like they have been stuck together with an empty gas tank. I got the adapter anodized to not look like a turd after one day of our salty road experience.

[Image: 3WwK6Qv.jpg]

I have put the engine together without the flywheel till I buy proper bolts for test fitment to measure the motor mount location. I decided to use the standard W210 om606 oil filled mounts.

[Image: NgFUp1r.jpg]

But first have to remove the old turd out.

[Image: Cd52pKI.jpg]

Old mounts plasma cut off:

[Image: dnS25qH.jpg]

Then a test fit of the new engine:

[Image: ZIRewIm.jpg]

Of course the oil pan hits the diff, even with my absurd amounts of lift everywhere Sad

I have since sourced the om648 oil pan, dipstick and the oil pump to remedy this.

[Image: 3oS5no0.png]

I drew up mounts for the engine and did a test fit for a different revision made out of lasercut plywood and hot glue.

[Image: LgDZxFf.jpg]

I sent the files to bet cut and am now waiting for them to be done and hope to be able to install them over the weekend.

I have to have this thing made pretty proper and have to submit drawings and calculations to the local road authority to make it street legal.

One of the om648 oil pump gears has shit in it, but whatever, if should be working longer than the engine.

[Image: Ohrve4g.jpg]

Was changing the oil pan but am missing an o ring that seals the pump to the block and will only be able to continue tomorrow.

[Image: 9veiqIa.jpg]

Whatever, got a new turbo core:

[Image: 75gJ0Wi.jpg]

I will try to keep this thread updated regularly and would appreciate any advice as I go along as the hardest work is still ahead- water, vacuum, wiring, fuel, ECU maps, etc.

This post was last modified: 02-11-2022, 12:34 PM by skrubis.

skrubis

11-01-2018, 06:31 PM #1

[Image: gr4MIw7.jpg]

[Image: 53JWOix.jpg?1]

I wanted to go with the om603 pump, but realized I don't want to fuck around the fuel delivery adjustment and not that controllable emissions to make it road legal.

I decided to buy the Baldurs DSL1 and sold the om603 pump on ebay to finance the DSL1 purchase.

[Image: TiBnQk9.jpg]

I have since put a lot of accessories and sandblasted everything.

I started (and almost finished) drawing my own adapter in solidworks with help of some of the members here, but given my now employed ass and lack of will to put together the assembly at least a dozen times to get everything were it needs to be I chose to go with a commercial adapter package.

I ordered the OM606 to AX15 adapter from mercedesdiesel4x4. That thing was expensive AF to get to EU, totaling about 1200EUR. There are some engineering choices I do not agree with and some parts of the workmanship leave more to be wanted for the price. The starter was not fitting well and had to be ground out. The allegedly "good to go" flywheel had to have 8grams removed to balance it. It feels like it is made out of a very soft steel and all the 8.8 hardware that's included for the flywheel given the length of the spacer+flywheel assembly seems sketchy. The weld marks on the plates seem like they have been stuck together with an empty gas tank. I got the adapter anodized to not look like a turd after one day of our salty road experience.

[Image: 3WwK6Qv.jpg]

[Image: hoGVPxL.jpg]

[Image: wvi5pFQ.jpg]

I have put the engine together without the flywheel till I buy proper bolts for test fitment to measure the motor mount location. I decided to use the standard W210 om606 oil filled mounts.

[Image: NgFUp1r.jpg]

But first have to remove the old turd out.

[Image: Cd52pKI.jpg]

[Image: Bv8bFRu.jpg]

Old mounts plasma cut off:

[Image: dnS25qH.jpg] [Image: lEh3dGw.jpg]

Then a test fit of the new engine:

[Image: ZIRewIm.jpg]

[Image: bsPMXcz.jpg]

Of course the oil pan hits the diff, even with my absurd amounts of lift everywhere Sad

I have since sourced the om648 oil pan, dipstick and the oil pump to remedy this.

[Image: 3oS5no0.png]

I drew up mounts for the engine and did a test fit for a different revision made out of lasercut plywood and hot glue.

[Image: LgDZxFf.jpg]

[Image: Cl6dFDs.jpg] I sent the files to bet cut and am now waiting for them to be done and hope to be able to install them over the weekend.

I have to have this thing made pretty proper and have to submit drawings and calculations to the local road authority to make it street legal.

One of the om648 oil pump gears has shit in it, but whatever, if should be working longer than the engine.

[Image: Ohrve4g.jpg] [Image: UhzP6lE.jpg]

Was changing the oil pan but am missing an o ring that seals the pump to the block and will only be able to continue tomorrow.

[Image: 9veiqIa.jpg]

[Image: 07NkNk5.jpg]

Whatever, got a new turbo core:

[Image: 75gJ0Wi.jpg]

I will try to keep this thread updated regularly and would appreciate any advice as I go along as the hardest work is still ahead- water, vacuum, wiring, fuel, ECU maps, etc.

skrubis

Naturally-aspirated

13

11-02-2018, 05:57 AM #2

Did some simulations today on the motor mount design.
Thing may get sketchy with 5+ tons on it.

1ton:
[Image: xQHpI2h.png]

2tons:

3 tons:

4 tons:

5 tons:

This post was last modified: 11-02-2018, 06:44 PM by skrubis.

skrubis

11-02-2018, 05:57 AM #2

Did some simulations today on the motor mount design.
Thing may get sketchy with 5+ tons on it.

1ton:
[Image: xQHpI2h.png]
[Image: pZ1LMJy.png]
2tons:
[Image: jfZdy22.png]
[Image: FoVjhzx.png]
3 tons:
[Image: 0qFhpWH.png]
[Image: cO05AOF.png]
4 tons:
[Image: bkllle9.png]
[Image: 3zsUzRz.png]
5 tons:

[Image: yot0FE6.png]
[Image: 0gtBGhK.png]

skrubis

Naturally-aspirated

13

11-02-2018, 06:42 PM #3

Installed the om648 pump and the oil pan tonight. Could have done it yesterday but I was missing the rubber o ring that fits in between the pump and the block.

[Image: t6kpLlC.jpg]

I need to install the front crank oil seal. I bought a new part that is kind of weird- the manual specifies that I should not be oiling it and there's a spreader inside of it. I suppose I put it in like any other oil seal, just don't oil the surface? The image manual specifies that you should only remove the spreader plastic piece when the seal is put on a shaft, but that's kind of impossible given that the pulley is the shaft.

Another thing I should figure out is the dipstick/digital oil level reader. I found online that the dipstick should be 134mm marking as full. That's quite a long dipstick. I have no problems with opting to use the electrical sender, but I would love to have an alternative. I've read online that there's someone somewhere selling a calibrated dipstick for the om648 engine, but have not yet found the listing.

skrubis

11-02-2018, 06:42 PM #3

Installed the om648 pump and the oil pan tonight. Could have done it yesterday but I was missing the rubber o ring that fits in between the pump and the block.

[Image: t6kpLlC.jpg]

[Image: FkWHy8B.jpg]
[Image: dRtXyXV.jpg] [Image: YN5gEeM.jpg]

I need to install the front crank oil seal. I bought a new part that is kind of weird- the manual specifies that I should not be oiling it and there's a spreader inside of it. I suppose I put it in like any other oil seal, just don't oil the surface? The image manual specifies that you should only remove the spreader plastic piece when the seal is put on a shaft, but that's kind of impossible given that the pulley is the shaft.

Another thing I should figure out is the dipstick/digital oil level reader. I found online that the dipstick should be 134mm marking as full. That's quite a long dipstick. I have no problems with opting to use the electrical sender, but I would love to have an alternative. I've read online that there's someone somewhere selling a calibrated dipstick for the om648 engine, but have not yet found the listing.

skrubis

Naturally-aspirated

13

11-04-2018, 05:10 PM #4

The engine is coming together nicely.
[Image: 8pOZ8B1.jpg?1]

I fitted custom coolant drain -> thermostat housing connectors to bring coolant to the rear of the block as previously discussed many times on this forum.
Fitted custom turbo oil delivery connectors on the block. Have to produce a gasket for the oblong turbo oil connector as it's missing.

Did a rough assembly of the new turbo core + housings. Turns out there's some small cracks in the hot side of the housing, I am not worrying too much, if it blows- I hope it's very unlikely that it messes up the cold side and sends metal in to the intake.

Broke off an M6 bolt in the block for the pump housing. Spent 7 hours MIGing and TIGing it out.

Here's some pics of the connectors.

[Image: oibZoxM.jpg]

The coolant drain hole thread was messed up from the aluminum plug that was there originally.
Cleaned out the threads.
I think it was M18-1.5 for the coolant and M16-1.5 for the oil (maybe I am mixing them up).

[Image: a8JEP8M.jpg]

skrubis

11-04-2018, 05:10 PM #4

The engine is coming together nicely.
[Image: 8pOZ8B1.jpg?1]
I fitted custom coolant drain -> thermostat housing connectors to bring coolant to the rear of the block as previously discussed many times on this forum.
Fitted custom turbo oil delivery connectors on the block. Have to produce a gasket for the oblong turbo oil connector as it's missing.

Did a rough assembly of the new turbo core + housings. Turns out there's some small cracks in the hot side of the housing, I am not worrying too much, if it blows- I hope it's very unlikely that it messes up the cold side and sends metal in to the intake.

Broke off an M6 bolt in the block for the pump housing. Spent 7 hours MIGing and TIGing it out.

Here's some pics of the connectors.

[Image: oibZoxM.jpg]
[Image: UvZF5lo.jpg]
[Image: a5N7VQx.jpg]
The coolant drain hole thread was messed up from the aluminum plug that was there originally.
Cleaned out the threads.
I think it was M18-1.5 for the coolant and M16-1.5 for the oil (maybe I am mixing them up).

[Image: a8JEP8M.jpg]

skrubis

Naturally-aspirated

13

11-10-2018, 11:31 AM #5

For the past week I have been putting the engine together. Working on the turbo oil piping.

blocked off the om606 stock oil dipstick hole with an aluminum plug.
[Image: 9uWpzM5.jpg]

Obviously, the adapter was made for the stock om606 to ax15. Given that the ax15 is used mostly in various solid axle jeeps- I don't see a way the stock oil pan can be fitted in there without heavy mods to the pump pick up and the sump location. It's risky with all the possible warping issues. I suppose most if not all of the swaps will utilize the om648 oil pan, so the adapter should have those holes in it as well to truly claim that this is a bolt on adapter. Overall the adapter kit leaves a bit bitter taste in the mouth and I now feel a bit ripped off- it's just a prototype the dude has sold me. The fasteners were shit, the starter did not fit, I had to mill out om648 pattern and I only found out this week that I have to modify the flywheel and flywheel spacer assembly, as there was no way it could accept the stock sachs 4.0 clutch as stated in the manual. The support is bad and the product is unfinished. I hope that the fact that I had to modify the flywheel has not messed with the initial balancing I paid for.

You can see the new om648 holes in the image below, marked with green paint.
[Image: 41DX2jJ.jpg]

Here is the adapter already with the om648 holes milled out.
The previously grinder ground out starter clearance has been reamed off with a mill as well to make it look a bit more civilized.

[Image: 4Hc1IrH.jpg]

The stock clutch that is allegedly supposed to fit on the custom flywheel would not fit for two reasons:
the clutch disc crank side spline engaging part did not have enough clearance to fit the disc.
The Sachs clutch springs would be touching the bolts. The flywheel had to have the center surface turned down 6mm to account for the clutch fitment.
You can see the center section now being lower in the image below.
[Image: cPzzuyB.jpg]

I did not want to fit the flywheel with the 8.8 rated bolts supplied with the kit. I tried buying M10-1.0x80mm bolts, but no one had them in stock.
12.10 rated bolts were turned down to my requirements while swapping the outer hex to inner for torquing the bolts down.
[Image: KdwLO3X.jpg]

The clutch was finally installed with all of the previously noticed kinks worked out.
[Image: TuK3EmL.jpg]

The engine going in for the last fitting:
[Image: wSXzy5y.jpg?1]

After a few hours of moving everything back and forth we finally found the perfect location using the gearbox mount under no load as a reference.
Tacked the mounts down and did the final welds. The engine sits in a slight incline, which will be further reduced when I'll install the transfer case slip yoke eliminator and remove the current 3mm belly skid mount drop.

[Image: h2VnMK9.jpg]

Overall I should have finished my own adapter, given that this one was not a direct bolt on thing and had invested the money spent in other parts.
If anyone ever needs the files for the mounts or for my unfinished adapter with some guidance on how to finish it- let me know.

I am now pausing the project for about 2-4 weeks for a work trip to China. Maybe longer, who knows.
Waiting for a replacement body harness from a donor in non-rust-belt US and automotive wiring supplies to come in from China.

skrubis

11-10-2018, 11:31 AM #5

For the past week I have been putting the engine together. Working on the turbo oil piping.

blocked off the om606 stock oil dipstick hole with an aluminum plug.
[Image: 9uWpzM5.jpg]
Obviously, the adapter was made for the stock om606 to ax15. Given that the ax15 is used mostly in various solid axle jeeps- I don't see a way the stock oil pan can be fitted in there without heavy mods to the pump pick up and the sump location. It's risky with all the possible warping issues. I suppose most if not all of the swaps will utilize the om648 oil pan, so the adapter should have those holes in it as well to truly claim that this is a bolt on adapter. Overall the adapter kit leaves a bit bitter taste in the mouth and I now feel a bit ripped off- it's just a prototype the dude has sold me. The fasteners were shit, the starter did not fit, I had to mill out om648 pattern and I only found out this week that I have to modify the flywheel and flywheel spacer assembly, as there was no way it could accept the stock sachs 4.0 clutch as stated in the manual. The support is bad and the product is unfinished. I hope that the fact that I had to modify the flywheel has not messed with the initial balancing I paid for.

You can see the new om648 holes in the image below, marked with green paint.
[Image: 41DX2jJ.jpg]
Here is the adapter already with the om648 holes milled out.
The previously grinder ground out starter clearance has been reamed off with a mill as well to make it look a bit more civilized.

[Image: 4Hc1IrH.jpg]

The stock clutch that is allegedly supposed to fit on the custom flywheel would not fit for two reasons:
the clutch disc crank side spline engaging part did not have enough clearance to fit the disc.
The Sachs clutch springs would be touching the bolts. The flywheel had to have the center surface turned down 6mm to account for the clutch fitment.
You can see the center section now being lower in the image below.
[Image: cPzzuyB.jpg]
[Image: Ie7fVpX.jpg]

I did not want to fit the flywheel with the 8.8 rated bolts supplied with the kit. I tried buying M10-1.0x80mm bolts, but no one had them in stock.
12.10 rated bolts were turned down to my requirements while swapping the outer hex to inner for torquing the bolts down.
[Image: KdwLO3X.jpg]
The clutch was finally installed with all of the previously noticed kinks worked out.
[Image: TuK3EmL.jpg]
The engine going in for the last fitting:
[Image: wSXzy5y.jpg?1]

After a few hours of moving everything back and forth we finally found the perfect location using the gearbox mount under no load as a reference.
Tacked the mounts down and did the final welds. The engine sits in a slight incline, which will be further reduced when I'll install the transfer case slip yoke eliminator and remove the current 3mm belly skid mount drop.

[Image: h2VnMK9.jpg]
[Image: nOt4vx5.jpg]

Overall I should have finished my own adapter, given that this one was not a direct bolt on thing and had invested the money spent in other parts.
If anyone ever needs the files for the mounts or for my unfinished adapter with some guidance on how to finish it- let me know.

I am now pausing the project for about 2-4 weeks for a work trip to China. Maybe longer, who knows.
Waiting for a replacement body harness from a donor in non-rust-belt US and automotive wiring supplies to come in from China.

skrubis

Naturally-aspirated

13

02-19-2019, 09:28 PM #6

Have not posted here for quite some time. Been to China multiple times now, and somehow acquired a private robotic arm for future projects.

I've been assembling the car further during the past few weeks while on vacation.
[Image: BC4ePyS.jpg]

Made an exhaust- 3 inch steel, magnaflow resonator and black thermal spray
[Image: 8jSmyeh.jpg]

Finished exhaust and mounted. EGR hole used for exhaust temp
[Image: mzJq6EC.jpg]

Tearing apart the stock engine harness
[Image: 6a3pTWy.jpg]

Test fitting the fake apexi aliexpress intercooler
[Image: jPXoLts.jpg]

working on piping. Scored some rainbow zipties in HK apliu market Cool

Tried getting the om648 oil level sensor working, either it was dead or I should get more sleep,
chose to not waste any more time and modified the om648 oil dipstick to accept the om606 dipstick.
Torn down the plastic markings on the dipstick and now am measuring the oil level with a ruler or caliper.
Will grind a mark when I'll have the oil cooler fitted.
[Image: 6ASeD5T.jpg]

I threw out the original chrysler gauges (all broken) and used a laser cutter to cut out circles in the front
transparent plastic to accompany 52mm aliexpress gauges. Cut down the rear side with an angle grinder to
have enough room for the gauges. Lost my coolant temp gauge sender somewhere.
[Image: dh7iJ1O.jpg]

Some lucky clearance between the intake manifold and
[Image: uhNq0Wi.jpg]

Stole a distributor from a scrapped volvo s60
[Image: axeZiK7.jpg]

DSL1 is mounted behind the glowbox.
[Image: P8BIo7k.jpg]

I have now mostly finished the engine wiring and got the engine running. Had problems starting it
because I had forgotten paper towels in the cylinders Blush

One square per cylinder quickly adds up and
black chewed up pieces of paper were blocking the exhaust before the turbo.
Took off the manifold and it spit out the remnants and made everything black. Thankfully no valves were bent.
Now running excellent for an engine with no map or turbo working. Cylinder one has a rare misfire, but I
want to blame the rebuilt injectors.

Now working on the body harness that comes from multiple donors and has major differences from any
factory schematics I can find. Working on intercooler and coolant lines.

This post was last modified: 02-19-2019, 09:33 PM by skrubis.

skrubis

02-19-2019, 09:28 PM #6

[Image: G3E8NnN.jpg]
Have not posted here for quite some time. Been to China multiple times now, and somehow acquired a private robotic arm for future projects.

I've been assembling the car further during the past few weeks while on vacation.
[Image: BC4ePyS.jpg]
Made an exhaust- 3 inch steel, magnaflow resonator and black thermal spray
[Image: 8jSmyeh.jpg]
[Image: WZWKjBg.jpg]
Finished exhaust and mounted. EGR hole used for exhaust temp
[Image: mzJq6EC.jpg]

Tearing apart the stock engine harness
[Image: 6a3pTWy.jpg]
Test fitting the fake apexi aliexpress intercooler
[Image: jPXoLts.jpg]
working on piping. Scored some rainbow zipties in HK apliu market Cool
[Image: K6xKHf1.jpg]
Tried getting the om648 oil level sensor working, either it was dead or I should get more sleep,
chose to not waste any more time and modified the om648 oil dipstick to accept the om606 dipstick.
Torn down the plastic markings on the dipstick and now am measuring the oil level with a ruler or caliper.
Will grind a mark when I'll have the oil cooler fitted.
[Image: 6ASeD5T.jpg]
[Image: eJblHhF.jpg]

I threw out the original chrysler gauges (all broken) and used a laser cutter to cut out circles in the front
transparent plastic to accompany 52mm aliexpress gauges. Cut down the rear side with an angle grinder to
have enough room for the gauges. Lost my coolant temp gauge sender somewhere.
[Image: dh7iJ1O.jpg]

Some lucky clearance between the intake manifold and
[Image: uhNq0Wi.jpg]
Stole a distributor from a scrapped volvo s60
[Image: axeZiK7.jpg]
DSL1 is mounted behind the glowbox.
[Image: P8BIo7k.jpg]
I have now mostly finished the engine wiring and got the engine running. Had problems starting it
because I had forgotten paper towels in the cylinders Blush One square per cylinder quickly adds up and
black chewed up pieces of paper were blocking the exhaust before the turbo.
Took off the manifold and it spit out the remnants and made everything black. Thankfully no valves were bent.
Now running excellent for an engine with no map or turbo working. Cylinder one has a rare misfire, but I
want to blame the rebuilt injectors.

Now working on the body harness that comes from multiple donors and has major differences from any
factory schematics I can find. Working on intercooler and coolant lines.

baldur

Fast

509

02-20-2019, 09:42 AM #7

Nice work! Looks very clean.

Baldur Gislason

baldur

02-20-2019, 09:42 AM #7

Nice work! Looks very clean.

Baldur Gislason

rcassettyjr
Unregistered

05-10-2019, 07:48 AM #8

I am going to be doing almost the same swap as you are. I picked up a nice rust free 1990 YJ with the carburated 6 cylinder and AX-15. I bought a 1999 turbo OM606 with super low miles out of a rusted out W210. I am going to use a mechanical injection pump that is currently being built with Dieselmeken 7.5mm elements instead of the EDC setup. The 1990 YJ has no computers or ECU so there is only ignition wiring to remove. I have the same mercedesdiesel4x4 adapter kit you bought. It has been discovered that the manufacturer designed it using a mean green aftermarket starter that has no snout on it which is why the OEM starters don't fit without removing some material. I am going to have to drill the 4 extra holes for the OM648 pan just like you did. I decided not to use the AX-15 as I don't think it will handle the power (torque) of the diesel in the long term especially with the aftermarket IP. I sourced a 1998 Dodge gas V8 NV4500 5 speed which is adapted to an AMC pattern bellhousing from a CJ using an Advance Adapters conversion plate. This makes it the same pattern as the AX-15 bellhousing and in mock up it appears that it will fit. The 2 adapters plus the longer transmission may push the shifter back a few inches but it appears it is workable. I am going to be using Wagoneer front springs to stretch the wheelbase 2" forward and 2" back so I should have no driveline length issues.

Could you tell me how you marked and drilled the holes in the adapter for the OM648 oil pan?

Could you send me the information/files for the motor mounts? I would like to get a set cut out so I am ready when its time to mount it

Have you made any new progress or run into any new issues?

Thanks

rcassettyjr

05-10-2019, 07:48 AM #8

cj8py
Unregistered

06-26-2019, 06:30 AM #9

I'm doing the same on my TJ, i'm interested in your engine mount cad design, could you share it?

cj8py

06-26-2019, 06:30 AM #9

I'm doing the same on my TJ, i'm interested in your engine mount cad design, could you share it?

skrubis

Naturally-aspirated

13

08-02-2019, 08:29 AM #10

Sorry wasn't following the thread.

I think the mercedesdiesel4x4.com adapter was a bad idea. I don't like the flywheel spacer and the bolts are sketch. I believe you may have issues with breaking the crankshaft bearing closest to the crank output. I would have instead gone with NAG1 auto box. I don't believe the engineering from that guy if he thinks 8.8 bolts are cool for that flywheel. He probably designed the kit with 5.5 mech pumps in mind. I am not sure how the entire thing will be handling the 7.5mm pump.

I put on the om648 oil pan and marked the drill holes with a cigarette butt dipped in paint with the adapter partially bolted on. Then gave to a machinist to do the drilling.

I had an issue with the old engine after spending a pile of money on it rebuilding the head twice. Decided to buy another merc for 400 eur, the engine costing approx 200 eur. Did not open it and just swapped over the parts. To replace the glow plugs (one of which seemed has been seized for many years) I used oxy torch to make the white hot and dump some ATF around it. Do it multiple times and use the biggest makita impact to drive them out. None of them broke.

Installed sye and new driveshafts, deleted the belly drop. Got rid of redneck shackle lift, now putting the car together to have it inspected. still a lot of small things to do, want to build a new bumper for the winch, but all of it can wait if I can drive the car finally.

Another thing to look out - if using the stock turbo, don't put AN10 on the oil return. It seems to be too narrow at full throttle, stick with the sketchy stock return pipe.

[Image: NsiYVbm.jpg]

Below are some pics, will try to get this road legal next week

This post was last modified: 08-02-2019, 08:56 AM by skrubis.

Attached Files

YJ-OM606-mounts-cut-5mm-steel.dxf
Size: 344.66 KB / Downloads: 568

skrubis

08-02-2019, 08:29 AM #10

Attached Files

YJ-OM606-mounts-cut-5mm-steel.dxf
Size: 344.66 KB / Downloads: 568

skrubis

Naturally-aspirated

13

08-18-2019, 02:41 PM #11

The clutch is slipping quite a lot, had to modify the stock turbo return line as my welded AN fitting + stock flange broke at the bolt hole. The rebuilt chinese core KKK was leaking oil in to the exhaust so I swapped it back to the second donors turbo which works very good.

I ordered a new clutch spec stage 1 and will swap nv3550 to ax15.

I asked the mercedesturbodiesel4x4.com guy what the max torque would be on the spaced flywheel (which he ships with sketchy 8.8 hardware) and he stopped responding.

If you plan on doing a jeep swap- just go with nag1(722.6) from WK 3.7 + controller. Swap the bell from stock 606 and put on the np231 or anything else on the rear (I think needs a spiline adapter).

I suspect that the mercedesdiesel4x4.com flywheel will eat up your crank bearings eventually or just snap off with anything larger than a 6mm pump. The seller seems a bit way in over his head not disclosing what "normal use" constitutes behind om606. I suggested this but haven't heard back.

This post was last modified: 08-18-2019, 02:42 PM by skrubis.

skrubis

08-18-2019, 02:41 PM #11

The car is now street legal. The swap inspection procedure was less painful than I had imagined or had been warned of, maybe because my swap project was quite proper with load simulations and drawings, plus I did some name dropping during the procedure. Rolleyes

The clutch is slipping quite a lot, had to modify the stock turbo return line as my welded AN fitting + stock flange broke at the bolt hole. The rebuilt chinese core KKK was leaking oil in to the exhaust so I swapped it back to the second donors turbo which works very good.

I ordered a new clutch spec stage 1 and will swap nv3550 to ax15.

I asked the mercedesturbodiesel4x4.com guy what the max torque would be on the spaced flywheel (which he ships with sketchy 8.8 hardware) and he stopped responding.

If you plan on doing a jeep swap- just go with nag1(722.6) from WK 3.7 + controller. Swap the bell from stock 606 and put on the np231 or anything else on the rear (I think needs a spiline adapter).

I suspect that the mercedesdiesel4x4.com flywheel will eat up your crank bearings eventually or just snap off with anything larger than a 6mm pump. The seller seems a bit way in over his head not disclosing what "normal use" constitutes behind om606. I suggested this but haven't heard back.

skrubis

Naturally-aspirated

13

09-25-2019, 09:46 PM #12

Here are some pictures of the past month.

Upgraded the clutch to spec stage1, but still slipping. EDIT: the mercedesdiesel4x4 is such shit that the spacer was just too long, engaging the clutchfork all the time on the bell housing, had it turned down a bit and clutch now grabs like a champ. Lesson learned: never buy stuff from mercedesdiesel4x4.com - ripoff. The owner doesn't stand behind his product, all is made in a sketchy manner for inadequate price.

[Image: KqHNIT3.jpg]

This post was last modified: 02-11-2022, 01:23 PM by skrubis.

skrubis

09-25-2019, 09:46 PM #12

[Image: h9zeczD.jpg]
Here are some pictures of the past month.

Upgraded the clutch to spec stage1, but still slipping. EDIT: the mercedesdiesel4x4 is such shit that the spacer was just too long, engaging the clutchfork all the time on the bell housing, had it turned down a bit and clutch now grabs like a champ. Lesson learned: never buy stuff from mercedesdiesel4x4.com - ripoff. The owner doesn't stand behind his product, all is made in a sketchy manner for inadequate price.

[Image: KqHNIT3.jpg]

[Image: Ep7mBQH.jpg]

Buzzliteyear

Naturally-aspirated

7

09-26-2019, 06:23 AM #13

Wow great detailed build, I havnt read it yet but love the large SS tube work you did.....im planing a 662 into a hyundai terracan so
will have some question after a read through it and your auto etc,

Brett

Buzzliteyear

09-26-2019, 06:23 AM #13

skrubis

Naturally-aspirated

13

02-11-2022, 12:56 PM #14

Not much has been done in the past years.
I did make an unbreakable oil pan out of 4mm steel.
Based on the om648 oil pan but with a bit larger oil capacity.
Ask me for files if you want to recreate it.

I added an oil cooler out of a volvo with welded on AN fittings.

I am tired of this project so if you have the money or time to continue it- feel free to give me an offer.
Can get a dieselmeken 7.5mm and ford 8.8 with it and a pile of other parts.

Below are some new pics

[Image: 27J8vmQ.jpg]

This post was last modified: 02-11-2022, 12:56 PM by skrubis.

skrubis

02-11-2022, 12:56 PM #14

skrubis

Naturally-aspirated

13

02-11-2022, 01:13 PM #15

Also- if you need any of these files, let me know.

[Image: ArCoOoV.jpg]

skrubis

02-11-2022, 01:13 PM #15

Also- if you need any of these files, let me know.

[Image: ArCoOoV.jpg]
[Image: z0EHtQC.jpg]
[Image: ZPzgufE.jpg]
[Image: wQYmr85.jpg]

TE27Levin

K26-2

43

02-15-2022, 04:21 PM #16

Awesome project, I am loving the oil pan. Amazing!!

TE27Levin

02-15-2022, 04:21 PM #16

Awesome project, I am loving the oil pan. Amazing!!

Jeepinitrea
Unregistered

09-15-2022, 02:36 PM #17

I would absolutely love those drawings to cut those engine mounts on my plasma table.

Jeepinitrea

09-15-2022, 02:36 PM #17

I would absolutely love those drawings to cut those engine mounts on my plasma table.

skrubis

Naturally-aspirated

13

10-17-2022, 11:45 AM #18

(09-15-2022, 02:36 PM)Jeepinitrea I would absolutely love those drawings to cut those engine mounts on my plasma table.

Sorry for the late reply. I just sent you a link to the files
here are the files for anyone else needing them: https://files.fm/u/9hct67umq
Please use your own due diligence before committing to steel.

skrubis

10-17-2022, 11:45 AM #18

(09-15-2022, 02:36 PM)Jeepinitrea I would absolutely love those drawings to cut those engine mounts on my plasma table.

Nathan
Unregistered

05-12-2023, 11:51 AM #19

(10-17-2022, 11:45 AM)skrubis
(09-15-2022, 02:36 PM)Jeepinitrea I would absolutely love those drawings to cut those engine mounts on my plasma table.

Sorry for the late reply. I just sent you a link to the files
here are the files for anyone else needing them:
Please use your own due diligence before committing to steel.

Any chance i could get the files for the adapter and the rear sump pan?
the file share link is expired or removed

Nathan

05-12-2023, 11:51 AM #19

(10-17-2022, 11:45 AM)skrubis
(09-15-2022, 02:36 PM)Jeepinitrea I would absolutely love those drawings to cut those engine mounts on my plasma table.

Sorry for the late reply. I just sent you a link to the files
here are the files for anyone else needing them:
Please use your own due diligence before committing to steel.

Any chance i could get the files for the adapter and the rear sump pan?
the file share link is expired or removed

TE27Levin

K26-2

43

05-16-2023, 08:20 AM #20

I was scrolling and all along, I missed the robot arm. Whats up with that thing?

TE27Levin

05-16-2023, 08:20 AM #20

I was scrolling and all along, I missed the robot arm. Whats up with that thing?

skrubis

Naturally-aspirated

13

07-22-2023, 05:44 PM #21

(05-16-2023, 08:20 AM)TE27Levin I was scrolling and all along, I missed the robot arm. Whats up with that thing?

I acquired it long before I had I girlfriend, it helps me get the engines out of things if needed.

skrubis

07-22-2023, 05:44 PM #21

(05-16-2023, 08:20 AM)TE27Levin I was scrolling and all along, I missed the robot arm. Whats up with that thing?

I acquired it long before I had I girlfriend, it helps me get the engines out of things if needed.

View a Printable Version

0 Vote(s) - 0 Average

Users browsing this thread:
2 Guest(s)