Wiseman's 91 W126 OM606
Wiseman's 91 W126 OM606
Got into these Mercedes diesels firstly because I daily drive a 07 gl320 cdi that has 375,000 km on it and the thing has been a tank. Great reliability, good fuel milage and you would never guess the age of the vehicle given the great shape of the interior/exterior.
Also my brother has a 84 300sd that has a 7.5mm meken pump, Holset hx30, custom exhaust. It is a fun car !
I recently purchased a 1991 560sel. Black on black. car has 260,000 km on it but looks really good in and out. Motor seems tired so it looks like a perfect car to do a swap.
Bought a OM606.962 that I will be building. Purchased the motor around 2 weeks ago. Apparently it is a running motor and had 250,000km on it. I want to tear it down and verify everything is ok before I start buying parts. (even though I jumped the gun and already bought a car and a 722.626 ). I did take the oil pan off and noticed some small metal bits in the pan. Need to take off the head to check the cylinders. I did take off a couple of connecting rod caps and the bearings had no wear on them which is great.
Overall the plan is to build the motor, install ftune connecting rods, balance the rotating assembly, ARP everything, change the valve springs and seats. I am looking at getting a manifold made and installing a s300 turbo. I am also looking at getting a 8mm Myna pump.
This will be a slow build though, plan so far is to finish the engine by January and go from there.
Ill add my youtube link below, I want to document a little about the build, post some before, after and progress pics.
https://www.youtube.com/user/crocop427/v...=dd&view=0
Hi guys, Im new to the forums, just want to pop in and slowly post about a build im going to start.
Got into these Mercedes diesels firstly because I daily drive a 07 gl320 cdi that has 375,000 km on it and the thing has been a tank. Great reliability, good fuel milage and you would never guess the age of the vehicle given the great shape of the interior/exterior.
Also my brother has a 84 300sd that has a 7.5mm meken pump, Holset hx30, custom exhaust. It is a fun car !
I recently purchased a 1991 560sel. Black on black. car has 260,000 km on it but looks really good in and out. Motor seems tired so it looks like a perfect car to do a swap.
Bought a OM606.962 that I will be building. Purchased the motor around 2 weeks ago. Apparently it is a running motor and had 250,000km on it. I want to tear it down and verify everything is ok before I start buying parts. (even though I jumped the gun and already bought a car and a 722.626 ). I did take the oil pan off and noticed some small metal bits in the pan. Need to take off the head to check the cylinders. I did take off a couple of connecting rod caps and the bearings had no wear on them which is great.
Overall the plan is to build the motor, install ftune connecting rods, balance the rotating assembly, ARP everything, change the valve springs and seats. I am looking at getting a manifold made and installing a s300 turbo. I am also looking at getting a 8mm Myna pump.
This will be a slow build though, plan so far is to finish the engine by January and go from there.
Ill add my youtube link below, I want to document a little about the build, post some before, after and progress pics.
https://www.youtube.com/user/crocop427/v...=dd&view=0
I have received some help from people on these forums, I definitely want to contribute back at least with a small progress report here.
I will try to go in some sort of order here.
So basically here is the motor as I got it. Motor had maybe 200,000 km on it, hard to say as it was removed without logging the mileage on the cluster.
Bearings seemed to be in nice shape and after I tore the motor down worst that I saw was on 1 or 2 of the pistons there was some light pickup in the cylinder.
Later on I brought the engine to a engine shop, they said it was all good, just needs to be honed.
![[Image: 20180916_121803_zps47dpthsz.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20180916_121803_zps47dpthsz.jpg)
![[Image: 20180916_122242_zps7tlt6uzp.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20180916_122242_zps7tlt6uzp.jpg)
Here is the car receiving the swap. 1991 560 SEL. At this point I wasnt expecting to have a car so quick. Originally I was looking for a W124, but this car cam along and after seeing how clean it was I had to pick it up.
![[Image: 20180921_230645_zpsnntcjrks.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20180921_230645_zpsnntcjrks.jpg)
When it came time to put the engine pack together I took the injectors into a diesel shop, had the injector pop pressure changed to I believe 150 bar.
![[Image: 20180923_110320_zpsdsksgnvz.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20180923_110320_zpsdsksgnvz.jpg)
Below is my first order with Benz Force. Picked up some F-tune rods from Rodney. Yes there is only 5 rods in the picture. I was super shocked when I opened up the order and counted 1 short. I must have recounted atleast 5 times, couldnt understand why this happened. Called up Rodney and he made it right, right away. Benz Force has some pretty good parts listed inventory now. Anyone building a 606 should check him out.
![[Image: 20181006_120125_zpszw2kg4kp.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20181006_120125_zpszw2kg4kp.jpg)
![[Image: 20181006_175121_zpspbfdcmf3.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20181006_175121_zpspbfdcmf3.jpg)
Decided on using a big NAG 1 for the transmission. This specific one is a 722.626. I had the valve body done up by a member on the forums here. Also sent the torque converter out the FTI converters in Florida to get the stall speed bumped up by 1000 RPM.
![[Image: 20181006_174852_zpsgg8wuw5d.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20181006_174852_zpsgg8wuw5d.jpg)
Motor back from the engine shop. I had shop build the bottom end since I dont have experience when it comes to assembly of bearings and tolerances etc. They balanced the rotating assembly which is nice. One thing that I found really interesting, when it came to fitting the bearing to the connecting rods, the shop said when it came to the stock rods, the tolerances was almost exactly the same for all the rods, 0.001 off here 0.001 there, right where it should be. When it came to the F-tune rods, the said they were getting readings all over the place. All within spec by the book, but not tight like the OEM rods. The shop also was surprised with how much the rods cost. I think it was like $120 a rod x 6 rods. They were also surprised that while the rod looks like a China rod, the rod bolts are carillo, which is supposed to be an expensive fastner.
![[Image: 20181120_122412_zpsw1p7kt6j.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20181120_122412_zpsw1p7kt6j.jpg)
Right now at this point the only concern I have is making sure no bearing spins on me in the first 1000 km of driving, after that Ill be happy
. Also got the F-Tune valve springs installed. Installed fresh valve stem seals while we were in there.
OMG taking the glow plus out. Previous owner broke 2 glow plugs. I tried taking the other out, every single glow plus broke. Ended up using a removal tool I bought for my GL320 CDI. I have to drill out every glow plug, pull them all out so I could replace them. Since I was already in there I also removed all the pre chambers. I had to make a special tool, like a threaded stud if you may, to pull them all out. I saw some videos of people using dowel pullers and going crazy trying to remove them. With my tool I just used threaded rod, a nut, and a steel block that I drilled a hole through. This method just nicely extracted each pre chamber.
![[Image: 20181120_122616%20-%20Copy_zpsw3el6j8d.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20181120_122616%20-%20Copy_zpsw3el6j8d.jpg)
Ok, so its been a very long time and I have not updated this at all.
I have received some help from people on these forums, I definitely want to contribute back at least with a small progress report here.
I will try to go in some sort of order here.
So basically here is the motor as I got it. Motor had maybe 200,000 km on it, hard to say as it was removed without logging the mileage on the cluster.
Bearings seemed to be in nice shape and after I tore the motor down worst that I saw was on 1 or 2 of the pistons there was some light pickup in the cylinder.
Later on I brought the engine to a engine shop, they said it was all good, just needs to be honed.
Here is the car receiving the swap. 1991 560 SEL. At this point I wasnt expecting to have a car so quick. Originally I was looking for a W124, but this car cam along and after seeing how clean it was I had to pick it up.
When it came time to put the engine pack together I took the injectors into a diesel shop, had the injector pop pressure changed to I believe 150 bar.
Below is my first order with Benz Force. Picked up some F-tune rods from Rodney. Yes there is only 5 rods in the picture. I was super shocked when I opened up the order and counted 1 short. I must have recounted atleast 5 times, couldnt understand why this happened. Called up Rodney and he made it right, right away. Benz Force has some pretty good parts listed inventory now. Anyone building a 606 should check him out.
Decided on using a big NAG 1 for the transmission. This specific one is a 722.626. I had the valve body done up by a member on the forums here. Also sent the torque converter out the FTI converters in Florida to get the stall speed bumped up by 1000 RPM.
Motor back from the engine shop. I had shop build the bottom end since I dont have experience when it comes to assembly of bearings and tolerances etc. They balanced the rotating assembly which is nice. One thing that I found really interesting, when it came to fitting the bearing to the connecting rods, the shop said when it came to the stock rods, the tolerances was almost exactly the same for all the rods, 0.001 off here 0.001 there, right where it should be. When it came to the F-tune rods, the said they were getting readings all over the place. All within spec by the book, but not tight like the OEM rods. The shop also was surprised with how much the rods cost. I think it was like $120 a rod x 6 rods. They were also surprised that while the rod looks like a China rod, the rod bolts are carillo, which is supposed to be an expensive fastner.
Right now at this point the only concern I have is making sure no bearing spins on me in the first 1000 km of driving, after that Ill be happy .
Also got the F-Tune valve springs installed. Installed fresh valve stem seals while we were in there.
OMG taking the glow plus out. Previous owner broke 2 glow plugs. I tried taking the other out, every single glow plus broke. Ended up using a removal tool I bought for my GL320 CDI. I have to drill out every glow plug, pull them all out so I could replace them. Since I was already in there I also removed all the pre chambers. I had to make a special tool, like a threaded stud if you may, to pull them all out. I saw some videos of people using dowel pullers and going crazy trying to remove them. With my tool I just used threaded rod, a nut, and a steel block that I drilled a hole through. This method just nicely extracted each pre chamber.
![[Image: 20181120_122703_zpsd5rqv3s2.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20181120_122703_zpsd5rqv3s2.jpg)
The FTI Torque Converter. So my set up will be a 8mm myna pump with the smallest borg warner s300 turbo....which is still a big turbo. I bought my turbo from AGP turbo and to be honest they wernt the best in helping me pick a turbo. I wanted them to recommend a turbo to me, ANY TURBO, they wouldnt, except tell me the S300 will give me to much turbo lag. So before Fred went A-wall (if thats how you spell it) I told him I wanted a OM606 that will make atleast 500 RWHP. Reason why I picked this number is because my previous car was a 2006 300c SRT8 that made 392 RWHP. So for me to make 400 hp to the wheels doesn't make sense, Im a car guy and I need the "more" out of a engine build. Anyways Fred and Johan both got me into the S300, I know alot of people use holset turbos, but for the price of a brand new S300, how efficient the thing is, it was the way to go.
Obvisouly I dont want alot of turbo lag off the line, so this is a real experiment here. Since the 722.6 is the same trans used in the SRT cars, there are lots of guys in the US that beef up these transmissions. Ive seen videos of people brake boosting the stock torque converters, and they just grab to early to build enough boost for the off the line performance on a single turbo car. So I sent my torque converter in to FTI and they were able to match up a pump for a NAG 1 for my 722.6266 converter. The guy on the phone at FTI was even surprised it matches up, but I figured it would. So hopefully the car is dont by the end of summer and I can show off some launch videos and burnouts after I break the motor in.
![[Image: 20181201_064611%20-%20Copy_zpspyxhl4vd.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20181201_064611%20-%20Copy_zpspyxhl4vd.jpg)
![[Image: 20181201_064621_zps91zggnqk.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20181201_064621_zps91zggnqk.jpg)
8MM Myna pump. I still hope I didnt get something to aggressive. I know ERX on the forums here says the OM606 cant even burn that much fuel, but its what i discussed with F tune, so I went for it. Also Hopefully with the higher stall converter the motor revs up quicker, builds boost abit faster, and I dont smoke out every street I drive down.
![[Image: 20181205_132946_zpsacdbnyua.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20181205_132946_zpsacdbnyua.jpg)
Installed F Tune head studs
![[Image: 20190203_131845_zpsmjsypydu.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190203_131845_zpsmjsypydu.jpg)
OK this is very important and I hope someone on here doesnt go through the same thing. on the head are TWO circle like pins used for locating the head. The machine shop that build my bottom end removed them and placed these things at the bottom of a parts box I got back. I had chills when I realized this, AFTER torquing the head down. Big time rookie move, buts its my first engine build. Make sure you remember that, the head, cam shaft housing, all locate on something. FML.
![[Image: 20190203_134415_zpsnojovmji.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190203_134415_zpsnojovmji.jpg)
F tune high flow head gasket. It was really funny. After removing the head and repalcing the locator pins for the head, I ordered a new high flow head gasket from Johan. I couldn't believe but the head gasket that Fred sold me was missing the rubber grommet at the bottom of it. I actually think if I didnt pull off the head, I would have had a coolant leak out the block of in the cylinders and good luck figuring that one out. Probably rookie move made me come out lucky in this case.
![[Image: 20190203_141602_zpsio0ikrbt.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190203_141602_zpsio0ikrbt.jpg)
![[Image: 20190203_142752_zpsxs59ibf5.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190203_142752_zpsxs59ibf5.jpg)
This is my first time assembling the motor before I had to tear it down to locate the head. second time around I did the assembly with the timing chain cover on first, then torquing the head on.
![[Image: 20190203_144723_zpsszfqicnw.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190203_144723_zpsszfqicnw.jpg)
5.6L V8 being removed from the 560SEL
![[Image: 20190210_161514_zpsbs4sqtd8.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190210_161514_zpsbs4sqtd8.jpg)
Ive seen people ask for this in the past, for anyone looking for the part number for the rubber o ring, here you go !
![[Image: 20190219_165029_zpserddwtar.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190219_165029_zpserddwtar.jpg)
![[Image: 20190220_113249_zpsfdcmpsyd.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190220_113249_zpsfdcmpsyd.jpg)
Had Johan make me a manifold for the built. After I took the stock 560 engine out I did try to test fit the engine with the manifold, unfortunately it did not fit in 1 place. Now that was with the 560 motor mounts, I got 350SDL mounts and they are about 1 inch taller, I will have to try to see what happens with the right mounts, worst car 1 tube was to be re routed. Overall...... Im pretty happy with it. and quick turn around from Johan as well !
![[Image: 20190221_141157_zpssisxshvg.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190221_141157_zpssisxshvg.jpg)
Removing these broken bastards ! Had maybe 3 studs break. 1 of them after drilling broke 3 good quality easy outs. I had to sit there with a stone on a dremel and grind away each easy out and drill deeper until finally the stud broke free. Also if anyone has to drill out an easy out, it is possible, you can use something called a Hi-Roc drill bit ( I think thats the name) but if that breaks I dont know how you get that out. And for the dremel, I beleive I was using the dremel brand grinding stone thats used for sharpening chain saws ( its a thin tall green stone) that worked the best, other stones would just blow up. Wear safety glasses.
![[Image: 20190225_132709_zpsyfsijbel.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190225_132709_zpsyfsijbel.jpg)
Next up, Pinning the crank. I have read that the jesus bolt can get loose and cause big problems. Also have been reading that at 5000 RPM inline 6 motors have big harmonic vibrations on the front of the crank shaft, which is probably why some people on here reving their motors that high have had problems. Started doing some research and found some nice kits for pinning balancers on vipers, hellcats, corvettes on summit racing.
Nothing was a direct fit for these motor so I just spent some time on a lathe and fabbed up a tool to drill the crank in 2 spots.
![[Image: 20190301_152648_zpsdlv9petf.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190301_152648_zpsdlv9petf.jpg)
![[Image: 20190301_160234_zpswgohcrsk.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190301_160234_zpswgohcrsk.jpg)
![[Image: 20190301_161639_zpsu1etoc9w.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190301_161639_zpsu1etoc9w.jpg)
![[Image: 20190301_174055_zps1qmvnuut.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190301_174055_zps1qmvnuut.jpg)
![[Image: 20190301_174133_zpsukaim5qf.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190301_174133_zpsukaim5qf.jpg)
As a quick side note, the stock bolt Ive seen that come with these motors are a 8.8 bolt. Remember that video of dieselmeken torquing the Jesus bolt down ? Since these are stretch bolts and one time use, I ordered a new OEM bolt, but the one I received was a 10.9 bolt. 10.9 bolts are NOT STRETCH BOLTS and have a different torque setting then the 8.8. There is no 90 degree additional turns with a 10.9 bolt, just a straight torque figure, thats it.
The FTI Torque Converter. So my set up will be a 8mm myna pump with the smallest borg warner s300 turbo....which is still a big turbo. I bought my turbo from AGP turbo and to be honest they wernt the best in helping me pick a turbo. I wanted them to recommend a turbo to me, ANY TURBO, they wouldnt, except tell me the S300 will give me to much turbo lag. So before Fred went A-wall (if thats how you spell it) I told him I wanted a OM606 that will make atleast 500 RWHP. Reason why I picked this number is because my previous car was a 2006 300c SRT8 that made 392 RWHP. So for me to make 400 hp to the wheels doesn't make sense, Im a car guy and I need the "more" out of a engine build. Anyways Fred and Johan both got me into the S300, I know alot of people use holset turbos, but for the price of a brand new S300, how efficient the thing is, it was the way to go.
Obvisouly I dont want alot of turbo lag off the line, so this is a real experiment here. Since the 722.6 is the same trans used in the SRT cars, there are lots of guys in the US that beef up these transmissions. Ive seen videos of people brake boosting the stock torque converters, and they just grab to early to build enough boost for the off the line performance on a single turbo car. So I sent my torque converter in to FTI and they were able to match up a pump for a NAG 1 for my 722.6266 converter. The guy on the phone at FTI was even surprised it matches up, but I figured it would. So hopefully the car is dont by the end of summer and I can show off some launch videos and burnouts after I break the motor in.
8MM Myna pump. I still hope I didnt get something to aggressive. I know ERX on the forums here says the OM606 cant even burn that much fuel, but its what i discussed with F tune, so I went for it. Also Hopefully with the higher stall converter the motor revs up quicker, builds boost abit faster, and I dont smoke out every street I drive down.
Installed F Tune head studs
OK this is very important and I hope someone on here doesnt go through the same thing. on the head are TWO circle like pins used for locating the head. The machine shop that build my bottom end removed them and placed these things at the bottom of a parts box I got back. I had chills when I realized this, AFTER torquing the head down. Big time rookie move, buts its my first engine build. Make sure you remember that, the head, cam shaft housing, all locate on something. FML.
F tune high flow head gasket. It was really funny. After removing the head and repalcing the locator pins for the head, I ordered a new high flow head gasket from Johan. I couldn't believe but the head gasket that Fred sold me was missing the rubber grommet at the bottom of it. I actually think if I didnt pull off the head, I would have had a coolant leak out the block of in the cylinders and good luck figuring that one out. Probably rookie move made me come out lucky in this case.
This is my first time assembling the motor before I had to tear it down to locate the head. second time around I did the assembly with the timing chain cover on first, then torquing the head on.
5.6L V8 being removed from the 560SEL
Ive seen people ask for this in the past, for anyone looking for the part number for the rubber o ring, here you go !
Had Johan make me a manifold for the built. After I took the stock 560 engine out I did try to test fit the engine with the manifold, unfortunately it did not fit in 1 place. Now that was with the 560 motor mounts, I got 350SDL mounts and they are about 1 inch taller, I will have to try to see what happens with the right mounts, worst car 1 tube was to be re routed. Overall...... Im pretty happy with it. and quick turn around from Johan as well !
Removing these broken bastards ! Had maybe 3 studs break. 1 of them after drilling broke 3 good quality easy outs. I had to sit there with a stone on a dremel and grind away each easy out and drill deeper until finally the stud broke free. Also if anyone has to drill out an easy out, it is possible, you can use something called a Hi-Roc drill bit ( I think thats the name) but if that breaks I dont know how you get that out. And for the dremel, I beleive I was using the dremel brand grinding stone thats used for sharpening chain saws ( its a thin tall green stone) that worked the best, other stones would just blow up. Wear safety glasses.
Next up, Pinning the crank. I have read that the jesus bolt can get loose and cause big problems. Also have been reading that at 5000 RPM inline 6 motors have big harmonic vibrations on the front of the crank shaft, which is probably why some people on here reving their motors that high have had problems. Started doing some research and found some nice kits for pinning balancers on vipers, hellcats, corvettes on summit racing.
Nothing was a direct fit for these motor so I just spent some time on a lathe and fabbed up a tool to drill the crank in 2 spots.
As a quick side note, the stock bolt Ive seen that come with these motors are a 8.8 bolt. Remember that video of dieselmeken torquing the Jesus bolt down ? Since these are stretch bolts and one time use, I ordered a new OEM bolt, but the one I received was a 10.9 bolt. 10.9 bolts are NOT STRETCH BOLTS and have a different torque setting then the 8.8. There is no 90 degree additional turns with a 10.9 bolt, just a straight torque figure, thats it.
![[Image: 20190321_193819_zps6iowfvet.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190321_193819_zps6iowfvet.jpg)
![[Image: 20190321_193826_zpsw9woni0x.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190321_193826_zpsw9woni0x.jpg)
Just a couple of side notes as I am remembering them. Yes I did swap bell housing over, when I bought my engine I actually told the seller I dont want the trans hes selling, the guy made me take it, good thing I did. Pulled off the bell housing on it to use on the 722.626.
For torquing the harmonic balancer bolt, Baum tools sells a nice tool to lock up the crack at the fly wheel. The tool mounts to the hole where the starter mounts and had teeth on it that interlock with the flywheel. This makes torquing the jesus bolt and flywheel bolt very easy.
Swapped out the stock springs for H&R lowering springs. Also upgraded all shocks to Bilstein.
![[Image: 20190328_162751_zpsbenbw9v6.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190328_162751_zpsbenbw9v6.jpg)
Also kept busy with the rest of the front end. Replaced all rubber bushings on the both front brake rods.
There wasnt much rust on this car, kept in mind this is a 1991 car with 230,000 km on it that has been driven in Canadian winters. It was alot of work but there a small tab sticking out above the brake rod. This tab has a nut on it that broke off because of rust. Had to cut into the car to get a wrench on the nut so I can remove the brake rod assembly. Grinded/cut off all rust, welded in new metal, abit of paint, all looks good again.
![[Image: 20190328_163553_zpswuw2x44p.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190328_163553_zpswuw2x44p.jpg)
Quick Pic with the pins in the block that locate the head. Definitely a lesson I will remember.
![[Image: 20190411_181711_zpsmawjwp4y.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190411_181711_zpsmawjwp4y.jpg)
![[Image: 20190503_164249_zpsdwp76neu.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190503_164249_zpsdwp76neu.jpg)
![[Image: 20190620_101610_zpspc1wjqmn.jpg]](https://oi1320.photobucket.com/albums/u528/wisemansgarage89/20190620_101610_zpspc1wjqmn.jpg)
I was really considering using a different set up compared to the stock fuel filter housing. I ended up just going the 603 route. I went on my EPC ordered all parts new from Germany, looks great ! But a side note there is a 3 way banjo fitting that Mercedes does not sell anymore, I was lucky my brother had a spare, made everything work nice.
Thats pretty much it for pictures for now. Hopefully some of this makes sense, I guess I could have taken more time to organize my thought on this but theres so much to remember here.
Another big pain was the AC. Trying to find the right AC and the right AC bracket for some reason was a big pain, but it all worked out.
Current stage Im at not is rigging up a throttle cable, mounting the trans to the engine and then I will place the heart in the body.
Other small things, I did swap out the strainers in the fuel take for diesel strainers, I have a Ofgear kit and have the center counsel out to install the new shifter, that actually fits perfect in place, just need to drill 2 holes to mount the shifter to the transmission tunnel. Currently installing the shut off valve that needs to be swapped out behind the ignition tumbler.
Ill update you guys as I go !
Pretty much almost finished engine in this picture.
Just a couple of side notes as I am remembering them. Yes I did swap bell housing over, when I bought my engine I actually told the seller I dont want the trans hes selling, the guy made me take it, good thing I did. Pulled off the bell housing on it to use on the 722.626.
For torquing the harmonic balancer bolt, Baum tools sells a nice tool to lock up the crack at the fly wheel. The tool mounts to the hole where the starter mounts and had teeth on it that interlock with the flywheel. This makes torquing the jesus bolt and flywheel bolt very easy.
Swapped out the stock springs for H&R lowering springs. Also upgraded all shocks to Bilstein.
Also kept busy with the rest of the front end. Replaced all rubber bushings on the both front brake rods.
There wasnt much rust on this car, kept in mind this is a 1991 car with 230,000 km on it that has been driven in Canadian winters. It was alot of work but there a small tab sticking out above the brake rod. This tab has a nut on it that broke off because of rust. Had to cut into the car to get a wrench on the nut so I can remove the brake rod assembly. Grinded/cut off all rust, welded in new metal, abit of paint, all looks good again.
Quick Pic with the pins in the block that locate the head. Definitely a lesson I will remember.
I was really considering using a different set up compared to the stock fuel filter housing. I ended up just going the 603 route. I went on my EPC ordered all parts new from Germany, looks great ! But a side note there is a 3 way banjo fitting that Mercedes does not sell anymore, I was lucky my brother had a spare, made everything work nice.
Thats pretty much it for pictures for now. Hopefully some of this makes sense, I guess I could have taken more time to organize my thought on this but theres so much to remember here.
Another big pain was the AC. Trying to find the right AC and the right AC bracket for some reason was a big pain, but it all worked out.
Current stage Im at not is rigging up a throttle cable, mounting the trans to the engine and then I will place the heart in the body.
Other small things, I did swap out the strainers in the fuel take for diesel strainers, I have a Ofgear kit and have the center counsel out to install the new shifter, that actually fits perfect in place, just need to drill 2 holes to mount the shifter to the transmission tunnel. Currently installing the shut off valve that needs to be swapped out behind the ignition tumbler.
Ill update you guys as I go !
It starts to get into some big money with these projects. The labor is expensive enough that cheaping out on parts doesn't make any sense. All you would have had to do here is send one of the old rods to Autoverdi and have them send you some new ones.
I expect the valve springs etc are similar. Hard to know what to trust. One hopes the cdi springs are a good enough fit to last.
atypicalguy
07-27-2019, 11:00 PM #8This is really a neat build. Congrats on what you have accomplished so far.
It starts to get into some big money with these projects. The labor is expensive enough that cheaping out on parts doesn't make any sense. All you would have had to do here is send one of the old rods to Autoverdi and have them send you some new ones.
I expect the valve springs etc are similar. Hard to know what to trust. One hopes the cdi springs are a good enough fit to last.
Thats also the reason why I went with the 8mm pump, to hit the numbers. But im really curious how it will drive with a high stall converter. If it was stock converter I could see how it would make for a rough ride, off the line and what not, But with a highstall I should feel it.
If I were to do it again I would just go with a stock short block.
I changed out the rods because Fred at F tune was saying for me to safely hit my power goal of 500whp I should change them out.
Thats also the reason why I went with the 8mm pump, to hit the numbers. But im really curious how it will drive with a high stall converter. If it was stock converter I could see how it would make for a rough ride, off the line and what not, But with a highstall I should feel it.
If I were to do it again I would just go with a stock short block.
I just meant that people like Fred don't always give reliable advice about what parts to use, and it is hard to know who to listen to.
So many guys run the stock motor and have no problems. Erx hasn't opened his up yet and he is running 12 sec at 3.5bar I think.
Great work. Let us know how it goes!
atypicalguy
07-29-2019, 01:36 AM #10Yes the stock rods will bend at some high rpm and high power apparently.
I just meant that people like Fred don't always give reliable advice about what parts to use, and it is hard to know who to listen to.
So many guys run the stock motor and have no problems. Erx hasn't opened his up yet and he is running 12 sec at 3.5bar I think.
Great work. Let us know how it goes!
Just to comment on the last post, I do believe there is a post on here from ERX where he says his motor threw a rod. I hope he rebuilts it and gets back into the forums here, hes provided alot of great info. Looks like hes also been beating on that motor for a while to with big turbos.
(04-10-2020, 09:59 PM)wiseman89 Just to comment on the last post, I do believe there is a post on here from ERX where he says his motor threw a rod. I hope he rebuilts it and gets back into the forums here, hes provided alot of great info. Looks like hes also been beating on that motor for a while to with big turbos.Yes his Chinese wastegate failed and he overboosted the motor to over 4 bars or something predictably fatal to the stock rods.
Anyone doing a high power build should just swap the pistons out to lower compression at the same time. Lower peak cyl pressures are also kinder to rods.
atypicalguy
04-12-2020, 11:30 PM #12(04-10-2020, 09:59 PM)wiseman89 Just to comment on the last post, I do believe there is a post on here from ERX where he says his motor threw a rod. I hope he rebuilts it and gets back into the forums here, hes provided alot of great info. Looks like hes also been beating on that motor for a while to with big turbos.Yes his Chinese wastegate failed and he overboosted the motor to over 4 bars or something predictably fatal to the stock rods.
Anyone doing a high power build should just swap the pistons out to lower compression at the same time. Lower peak cyl pressures are also kinder to rods.
(04-12-2020, 11:30 PM)atypicalguy(04-10-2020, 09:59 PM)wiseman89 Just to comment on the last post, I do believe there is a post on here from ERX where he says his motor threw a rod. I hope he rebuilts it and gets back into the forums here, hes provided alot of great info. Looks like hes also been beating on that motor for a while to with big turbos.Yes his Chinese wastegate failed and he overboosted the motor to over 4 bars or something predictably fatal to the stock rods.
Anyone doing a high power build should just swap the pistons out to lower compression at the same time. Lower peak cyl pressures are also kinder to rods.
My experience is these engines need their 20+ compression or they will run like garbage, knocking and smoking.
Baldur Gislason
(04-12-2020, 11:30 PM)atypicalguy(04-10-2020, 09:59 PM)wiseman89 Just to comment on the last post, I do believe there is a post on here from ERX where he says his motor threw a rod. I hope he rebuilts it and gets back into the forums here, hes provided alot of great info. Looks like hes also been beating on that motor for a while to with big turbos.Yes his Chinese wastegate failed and he overboosted the motor to over 4 bars or something predictably fatal to the stock rods.
Anyone doing a high power build should just swap the pistons out to lower compression at the same time. Lower peak cyl pressures are also kinder to rods.
My experience is these engines need their 20+ compression or they will run like garbage, knocking and smoking.
Baldur Gislason
(04-17-2020, 03:43 AM)baldur(04-12-2020, 11:30 PM)atypicalguy(04-10-2020, 09:59 PM)wiseman89 Just to comment on the last post, I do believe there is a post on here from ERX where he says his motor threw a rod. I hope he rebuilts it and gets back into the forums here, hes provided alot of great info. Looks like hes also been beating on that motor for a while to with big turbos.Yes his Chinese wastegate failed and he overboosted the motor to over 4 bars or something predictably fatal to the stock rods.
Anyone doing a high power build should just swap the pistons out to lower compression at the same time. Lower peak cyl pressures are also kinder to rods.
My experience is these engines need their 20+ compression or they will run like garbage, knocking and smoking.
What number did you take it down to Baldur?
atypicalguy
04-27-2020, 05:50 PM #14(04-17-2020, 03:43 AM)baldur(04-12-2020, 11:30 PM)atypicalguy(04-10-2020, 09:59 PM)wiseman89 Just to comment on the last post, I do believe there is a post on here from ERX where he says his motor threw a rod. I hope he rebuilts it and gets back into the forums here, hes provided alot of great info. Looks like hes also been beating on that motor for a while to with big turbos.Yes his Chinese wastegate failed and he overboosted the motor to over 4 bars or something predictably fatal to the stock rods.
Anyone doing a high power build should just swap the pistons out to lower compression at the same time. Lower peak cyl pressures are also kinder to rods.
My experience is these engines need their 20+ compression or they will run like garbage, knocking and smoking.
What number did you take it down to Baldur?
(04-27-2020, 05:50 PM)atypicalguy(04-17-2020, 03:43 AM)baldur(04-12-2020, 11:30 PM)atypicalguy Yes his Chinese wastegate failed and he overboosted the motor to over 4 bars or something predictably fatal to the stock rods.
Anyone doing a high power build should just swap the pistons out to lower compression at the same time. Lower peak cyl pressures are also kinder to rods.
My experience is these engines need their 20+ compression or they will run like garbage, knocking and smoking.
What number did you take it down to Baldur?
I didn't reduce the compression of one on purpose, but if you bend a rod or for any other reason lose compression the symptoms are knocking and smoking at idle, but performance at higher rpm will still be OK.
Baldur Gislason
(04-27-2020, 05:50 PM)atypicalguy(04-17-2020, 03:43 AM)baldur(04-12-2020, 11:30 PM)atypicalguy Yes his Chinese wastegate failed and he overboosted the motor to over 4 bars or something predictably fatal to the stock rods.
Anyone doing a high power build should just swap the pistons out to lower compression at the same time. Lower peak cyl pressures are also kinder to rods.
My experience is these engines need their 20+ compression or they will run like garbage, knocking and smoking.
What number did you take it down to Baldur?
I didn't reduce the compression of one on purpose, but if you bend a rod or for any other reason lose compression the symptoms are knocking and smoking at idle, but performance at higher rpm will still be OK.
Baldur Gislason
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