Purple 220D
Purple 220D
Picked up a 1973 220D this past weekend. Its rough and needs a bit of love
some of the things I've learned from my old 240D was to focus on cosmetics later and work on mechanical first.
The first project Im going to tackle are the brakes and suspension, probably changing seals and gaskets along the way.
After that, I plan to tackle all the rust and some body work that is desperately needed
There is quite of bit of leaking under the car
A couple of questions for you guys
1 - anyone ever do a transmission swap? Would I be able to source a 240D with a four speed and just install the parts?
2 - The AC sytem, I have the older york but was wondering if anyone has converted it to a Sanden, like on the W123?
3 - what would it look like to drop a 300D NA in here? im assuming should be able to fit with no real body modifications?
I'll take some pic later and post them probably tomorrow. I am pretty sure I will not be throwing in a turbo on this one, perhaps maybe any fuel mods I can do, I remember ronnie in VA had some system to modify the pump and pre-chambers to allow more fuel, but that was on a 616 engine
Purplecomputer
06-02-2020, 01:00 PM #1Howdy,
Picked up a 1973 220D this past weekend. Its rough and needs a bit of love
some of the things I've learned from my old 240D was to focus on cosmetics later and work on mechanical first.
The first project Im going to tackle are the brakes and suspension, probably changing seals and gaskets along the way.
After that, I plan to tackle all the rust and some body work that is desperately needed
There is quite of bit of leaking under the car
A couple of questions for you guys
1 - anyone ever do a transmission swap? Would I be able to source a 240D with a four speed and just install the parts?
2 - The AC sytem, I have the older york but was wondering if anyone has converted it to a Sanden, like on the W123?
3 - what would it look like to drop a 300D NA in here? im assuming should be able to fit with no real body modifications?
I'll take some pic later and post them probably tomorrow. I am pretty sure I will not be throwing in a turbo on this one, perhaps maybe any fuel mods I can do, I remember ronnie in VA had some system to modify the pump and pre-chambers to allow more fuel, but that was on a 616 engine
I think H&R still makes springs?
Purplecomputer
06-02-2020, 03:21 PM #2Oh I forgot to ask, Anyone have experience with lowering these cars a tiny bit? I think these cars look great when dropped just a bit.
I think H&R still makes springs?
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
If you decide to cut the springs remember it’s around a 2:1 ratio. So if you cut 1/2” inch you’ll be lowered an inch or a smidge more. I suggest getting all 3 sizes of rubber shims and cut 1/2” inch max to see what it does or 1/4” and use your shims as a guide
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
(06-07-2020, 10:43 AM)Greazzer If you decide to cut the springs remember it’s around a 2:1 ratio. So if you cut 1/2” inch you’ll be lowered an inch or a smidge more. I suggest getting all 3 sizes of rubber shims and cut 1/2” inch max to see what it does or 1/4” and use your shims as a guide
Greazzer, im not sure I follow the ratio, which would be the 2 and which is the 1?
Also, arent there mixed reviews about spring cutting? which is why I wasnt opposed to spending the money on lowering springs, but if I can figure out the cutting I could do that to!
Im dropping the front subframe hopefully today. I bought an engine support bar at HF the otherday with a 20% off coupon. With the subframe out of the way, I should have a better view of everything below. I can already tell I need to replace the oil pan gasket and the oil pan plug, theres oil everywhere.
I also found the culprit of the "fuel starvation" issue I may have mentioned before, a major reason the previous owner decided to sell it.
They replaced all the fuel hoses, but they bought clear hose, which I am not sure this particular hose was designed for fuel as the otherday, when it was hot and I was in the engine bay, the fuel lines wiggled about becuase they expanded and let in a ton of AIR! I should mention there are no fuel hose clamps anywhere....so that might be another reason.
Purplecomputer
06-08-2020, 08:34 AM #4(06-07-2020, 10:43 AM)Greazzer If you decide to cut the springs remember it’s around a 2:1 ratio. So if you cut 1/2” inch you’ll be lowered an inch or a smidge more. I suggest getting all 3 sizes of rubber shims and cut 1/2” inch max to see what it does or 1/4” and use your shims as a guide
Greazzer, im not sure I follow the ratio, which would be the 2 and which is the 1?
Also, arent there mixed reviews about spring cutting? which is why I wasnt opposed to spending the money on lowering springs, but if I can figure out the cutting I could do that to!
Im dropping the front subframe hopefully today. I bought an engine support bar at HF the otherday with a 20% off coupon. With the subframe out of the way, I should have a better view of everything below. I can already tell I need to replace the oil pan gasket and the oil pan plug, theres oil everywhere.
I also found the culprit of the "fuel starvation" issue I may have mentioned before, a major reason the previous owner decided to sell it.
They replaced all the fuel hoses, but they bought clear hose, which I am not sure this particular hose was designed for fuel as the otherday, when it was hot and I was in the engine bay, the fuel lines wiggled about becuase they expanded and let in a ton of AIR! I should mention there are no fuel hose clamps anywhere....so that might be another reason.
Realized that I'll need to compress the spring in order to fully take it apart.
I'd like to try the electrolysis process to remove all the rust as the videos I've seen make it super easy, and since I have time on my hands with this project, I can afford to do something like that.
Anyone have a MB spring compressor I can rent?
Purplecomputer
06-08-2020, 07:30 PM #5Got the Front subframe out
Realized that I'll need to compress the spring in order to fully take it apart.
I'd like to try the electrolysis process to remove all the rust as the videos I've seen make it super easy, and since I have time on my hands with this project, I can afford to do something like that.
Anyone have a MB spring compressor I can rent?
This is a quick shot of the car on the trailer
![[Image: QwTBErEl.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/QwTBErEl.jpg)
![[Image: ktV8mWhl.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/ktV8mWhl.jpg)
Here she is prepped in the garage
![[Image: scuallDl.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/scuallDl.jpg)
And here is the result of a few days of work
![[Image: H4P5jx0l.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/H4P5jx0l.jpg)
Purplecomputer
06-09-2020, 03:33 PM #6Here are some pictures
This is a quick shot of the car on the trailer
Here she is prepped in the garage
And here is the result of a few days of work
was able to yank the springs out. I found a cheap plate style spring compressor off Amazon.
I was only able to remove the front springs, because I dropped the whole sub frame, otherwise, this would not be possible
![[Image: 5GtGkuyl.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/5GtGkuyl.jpg)
One spring out...
![[Image: 5tN0qhkl.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/5tN0qhkl.jpg)
two springs out...
![[Image: CrKaChJl.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/CrKaChJl.jpg)
Tried taking apart the frame, every single bolt except this one came out... put some pb blaster on it and left it overnight. I'll try again at some point.
![[Image: cpYQjxzl.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/cpYQjxzl.jpg)
Purplecomputer
06-12-2020, 03:27 PM #7okay, im using this site as a way to document my work, doesnt seem like the community is as active as it was 7 something years ago
was able to yank the springs out. I found a cheap plate style spring compressor off Amazon.
I was only able to remove the front springs, because I dropped the whole sub frame, otherwise, this would not be possible
One spring out...
two springs out...
Tried taking apart the frame, every single bolt except this one came out... put some pb blaster on it and left it overnight. I'll try again at some point.
And, you are correct. Not a lot going on with this forum like it used to be. I stopped swinging by as often over a year ago because so little commentary and traffic on mod's and upgrades.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
What I mean by ratio is this. If you cut a 1/4 of an inch, you will lower your car by twice as much or more. So, for example, if you cut and remove 1/4" of the HEIGHT of the spring, you will lower your car about 1/2 inch. So, the first thing is making sure you can accurately measure the height of the spring. It is NOT a 1/4" of the lenght, BUT height. I would cut very very little to make sure the ratio is consistent. Plus, those springs may not be exactle the same height now. It is not as simple as chopping off a coil and thinking it will work out.
And, you are correct. Not a lot going on with this forum like it used to be. I stopped swinging by as often over a year ago because so little commentary and traffic on mod's and upgrades.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
I love the look of the older styles.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
To save an incredible amount of time, I suggest taking it apart with tons of pictures and then taking those parts to a powder coater. Cleaning them will take a lot of time. Powder coating is not that expensive. I would make sure the powder coater is used to car parts, machined surfaces, et cet. There's a specific chassis black as well unless you just want glossy. For me, my time is the most important resource I have. I have invested and wasted hours and hours trying to clean stuff up. I learned a while ago, if you can, find a good powder coater in your area who caters to the car nuts out there. Saving 3 or 4 hours for $100 or so dollars for a virtually new looking sub-frame is worth every penny to me. The sub-frame probably has little rust because of all the grease and grime. Also, I learned a while ago, having everything near surgically clean is the first starting point. Having a ton of gunk in your way vs. like new is like day and night. I am sure there are kits out there for all that new rubber. If all that new rubber just bolts on, then having all newly powder coated surfaces is the way to go IMO. Make sure the shop knows to plug up all orifices and tape off all machined surfaces, et cet. I have not really tinkered with my cars for a while except here and there, but I am getting back to things here shortly. I will start working on my AMG wanna-be thread. If it was me, I would NOT buy different springs. If you want to lower it, just cut a 1/2 max if you have the thicker rubber shims. You can make up the different. I do not know how interchangable W123 parts are with the older MBs such as yours. Plus, I am positive all those mods have been done before. Just finding them is the trick.
I love the look of the older styles.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
By the way, there is a RECALL on your Horrible Freight jack stands right now. BE CAREFULE !
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
If you want to lower, either find different springs to put in there, or have yours compressed and heat-treated by a spring shop. Or better yet, wait until your new engine is in and the weight finalized.
Strongly recommend you not cut springs. See how the end coils are at different angles than the middle ones? If you remove those, you mess up spring rate progression, which IME (mostly on BMW) makes a well-tuned German car ride like something Uncle Lester cobbled together in the barn out of antique tractor parts in between running the moonshine still.
If you want to lower, either find different springs to put in there, or have yours compressed and heat-treated by a spring shop. Or better yet, wait until your new engine is in and the weight finalized.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
I would agree with the above poster. Leave them along because of the extra weight of a 5 cylinder may "push" down the car and lower it to the point you are happy. That totally escaped my thoughts.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
(06-13-2020, 09:53 AM)Greazzer By the way, there is a RECALL on your Horrible Freight jack stands right now. BE CAREFULE !
No worries! These are the new ones that do not have a recall, but who knows, I still might end up like a pancake!
Quote:To save an incredible amount of time, I suggest taking it apart with tons of pictures and then taking those parts to a powder coater. Cleaning them will take a lot of time. Powder coating is not that expensive. I would make sure the powder coater is used to car parts, machined surfaces, et cet. There's a specific chassis black as well unless you just want glossy. For me, my time is the most important resource I have. I have invested and wasted hours and hours trying to clean stuff up. I learned a while ago, if you can, find a good powder coater in your area who caters to the car nuts out there. Saving 3 or 4 hours for $100 or so dollars for a virtually new looking sub-frame is worth every penny to me. The sub-frame probably has little rust because of all the grease and grime. Also, I learned a while ago, having everything near surgically clean is the first starting point. Having a ton of gunk in your way vs. like new is like day and night. I am sure there are kits out there for all that new rubber. If all that new rubber just bolts on, then having all newly powder coated surfaces is the way to go IMO. Make sure the shop knows to plug up all orifices and tape off all machined surfaces, et cet. I have not really tinkered with my cars for a while except here and there, but I am getting back to things here shortly. I will start working on my AMG wanna-be thread. If it was me, I would NOT buy different springs. If you want to lower it, just cut a 1/2 max if you have the thicker rubber shims. You can make up the different. I do not know how interchangable W123 parts are with the older MBs such as yours. Plus, I am positive all those mods have been done before. Just finding them is the trick.
I love the look of the older styles.
I was able to take everything apart today and did a DIY Parts cleaned with a plastic tub, but I need to hit it again as there so much grease & oil. My bursh was toast so i need to pick up a coarser brush eventually.Im pretty sure that reason theres oil is the oil pan gasket is toast, so that should be an easy fit. Powerder coating is not a bad idea, i'll check the area and see whats there. I dont think im far from you. Im near the border of SC so if you know of any good places, let me know!
I think with the cleaning & electrolysis, I should be able to end up with something very clean to take to a shop if I decide to go that route.
Quote:Strongly recommend you not cut springs. See how the end coils are at different angles than the middle ones? If you remove those, you mess up spring rate progression, which IME (mostly on BMW) makes a well-tuned German car ride like something Uncle Lester cobbled together in the barn out of antique tractor parts in between running the moonshine still.
If you want to lower, either find different springs to put in there, or have yours compressed and heat-treated by a spring shop. Or better yet, wait until your new engine is in and the weight finalized.
I honestly, dont think I'll be putting in a 617 N/A anytime soon. Im pretty keen on those H&R springs as they seem to be perfect for what im going for. They are just expensive, so if you anyone has pre-made lowering springs, or even used H&R ones, let me know.
Purplecomputer
06-14-2020, 04:14 PM #13(06-13-2020, 09:53 AM)Greazzer By the way, there is a RECALL on your Horrible Freight jack stands right now. BE CAREFULE !
No worries! These are the new ones that do not have a recall, but who knows, I still might end up like a pancake!
Quote:To save an incredible amount of time, I suggest taking it apart with tons of pictures and then taking those parts to a powder coater. Cleaning them will take a lot of time. Powder coating is not that expensive. I would make sure the powder coater is used to car parts, machined surfaces, et cet. There's a specific chassis black as well unless you just want glossy. For me, my time is the most important resource I have. I have invested and wasted hours and hours trying to clean stuff up. I learned a while ago, if you can, find a good powder coater in your area who caters to the car nuts out there. Saving 3 or 4 hours for $100 or so dollars for a virtually new looking sub-frame is worth every penny to me. The sub-frame probably has little rust because of all the grease and grime. Also, I learned a while ago, having everything near surgically clean is the first starting point. Having a ton of gunk in your way vs. like new is like day and night. I am sure there are kits out there for all that new rubber. If all that new rubber just bolts on, then having all newly powder coated surfaces is the way to go IMO. Make sure the shop knows to plug up all orifices and tape off all machined surfaces, et cet. I have not really tinkered with my cars for a while except here and there, but I am getting back to things here shortly. I will start working on my AMG wanna-be thread. If it was me, I would NOT buy different springs. If you want to lower it, just cut a 1/2 max if you have the thicker rubber shims. You can make up the different. I do not know how interchangable W123 parts are with the older MBs such as yours. Plus, I am positive all those mods have been done before. Just finding them is the trick.
I love the look of the older styles.
I was able to take everything apart today and did a DIY Parts cleaned with a plastic tub, but I need to hit it again as there so much grease & oil. My bursh was toast so i need to pick up a coarser brush eventually.Im pretty sure that reason theres oil is the oil pan gasket is toast, so that should be an easy fit. Powerder coating is not a bad idea, i'll check the area and see whats there. I dont think im far from you. Im near the border of SC so if you know of any good places, let me know!
I think with the cleaning & electrolysis, I should be able to end up with something very clean to take to a shop if I decide to go that route.
Quote:Strongly recommend you not cut springs. See how the end coils are at different angles than the middle ones? If you remove those, you mess up spring rate progression, which IME (mostly on BMW) makes a well-tuned German car ride like something Uncle Lester cobbled together in the barn out of antique tractor parts in between running the moonshine still.
If you want to lower, either find different springs to put in there, or have yours compressed and heat-treated by a spring shop. Or better yet, wait until your new engine is in and the weight finalized.
I honestly, dont think I'll be putting in a 617 N/A anytime soon. Im pretty keen on those H&R springs as they seem to be perfect for what im going for. They are just expensive, so if you anyone has pre-made lowering springs, or even used H&R ones, let me know.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
I would not clean anything. Let the powder coating place do it. You’re going to end up with a lot of crap to dispose of.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
(06-15-2020, 08:19 AM)Greazzer I would not clean anything. Let the powder coating place do it. You’re going to end up with a lot of crap to dispose of.
found a place 10 min from me, called and asked for a quote, waiting on their reply
Purplecomputer
06-15-2020, 01:08 PM #15(06-15-2020, 08:19 AM)Greazzer I would not clean anything. Let the powder coating place do it. You’re going to end up with a lot of crap to dispose of.
found a place 10 min from me, called and asked for a quote, waiting on their reply
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