OM 606 idle miss and excessive blue smoke
OM 606 idle miss and excessive blue smoke
05-16-2020, 12:36 PM
#1
My 98 E-300 which is my daily driver has been running fine, but all of a sudden when I start it in the morning and warm it up for a while it starts missing and blows out excessive blue smoke at any RPM. Sometimes if I turn the key off and restart it, it quits missing for a while.
It runs fine when started and then after about 10 minuets it starts missing and blows blue smoke. If I shut it off and wait 30 minuets and start it again it is fine for a while and then it starts missing and blowing blue smoke. If I start it and drive it right away it smokes a little going out the driveway and then when I get it out on the road it clears up and runs fine.
I come back and let it idle in a while it starts missing again and smoking excessively. The engine has about 185,000 and has been well maintained. No blow by.
This is what I have done so far with no fix.
1. Drained fuel tank and replaced fuel, cleaned strainer and blew out fuel lines
2. Replace all plastic fuel lines, fuel heater and all filters
3. Replaced DV washers and o-rings
4. Replaced injectors with rebuilt ones
5. Ran compression test 350 # 1-6
6. Replaced differential pressure valve and all rubber elbows
7. Replaced turbo had some oil in intercooler tube to intake.
8. Deleted EGR and did bypass in computer harness
I have noticed the timing chain is walking back and forth on the cam gear when running and looking in the oil cap hole, so I do have some timing chain wear.
Other then this I am at a loss at what to do next, I do have some new DV valves and springs coming to eliminate that.
Anyone have any other ideas, it almost acts like the oil drainback is plugged in the rear of the head and going down the valve guide.
Thanks Zeeman
This post was last modified: 05-16-2020, 02:43 PM by zeeman.
I know this has been discussed on many blogs but none of them to seem to fit my issue.
My 98 E-300 which is my daily driver has been running fine, but all of a sudden when I start it in the morning and warm it up for a while it starts missing and blows out excessive blue smoke at any RPM. Sometimes if I turn the key off and restart it, it quits missing for a while.
It runs fine when started and then after about 10 minuets it starts missing and blows blue smoke. If I shut it off and wait 30 minuets and start it again it is fine for a while and then it starts missing and blowing blue smoke. If I start it and drive it right away it smokes a little going out the driveway and then when I get it out on the road it clears up and runs fine.
I come back and let it idle in a while it starts missing again and smoking excessively. The engine has about 185,000 and has been well maintained. No blow by.
This is what I have done so far with no fix.
1. Drained fuel tank and replaced fuel, cleaned strainer and blew out fuel lines
2. Replace all plastic fuel lines, fuel heater and all filters
3. Replaced DV washers and o-rings
4. Replaced injectors with rebuilt ones
5. Ran compression test 350 # 1-6
6. Replaced differential pressure valve and all rubber elbows
7. Replaced turbo had some oil in intercooler tube to intake.
8. Deleted EGR and did bypass in computer harness
I have noticed the timing chain is walking back and forth on the cam gear when running and looking in the oil cap hole, so I do have some timing chain wear.
Other then this I am at a loss at what to do next, I do have some new DV valves and springs coming to eliminate that.
Anyone have any other ideas, it almost acts like the oil drainback is plugged in the rear of the head and going down the valve guide.
Thanks Zeeman
05-17-2020, 09:47 AM
#2
I have a similar issue, the blue smoke starts up after the glow plugs have kicked off (I have a light that is wired to the glow plugs which are on a i/o relay so I know when they kick off). It's very noticeable when it's below 70F out. It isn't noticeable when the engine temp is above 70-80F.
Do you think it is related to air getting into the injection pump/injectors and retarding the timing? The issue getting worse when there isn't a glow plug on to make sure the fuel burns?
(interesting to hear you replaced the turbo and it didn't make a difference, I was starting to wonder if that was causing it on mine).
X Double Dot
05-17-2020, 09:47 AM #2sub'd
I have a similar issue, the blue smoke starts up after the glow plugs have kicked off (I have a light that is wired to the glow plugs which are on a i/o relay so I know when they kick off). It's very noticeable when it's below 70F out. It isn't noticeable when the engine temp is above 70-80F.
Do you think it is related to air getting into the injection pump/injectors and retarding the timing? The issue getting worse when there isn't a glow plug on to make sure the fuel burns?
(interesting to hear you replaced the turbo and it didn't make a difference, I was starting to wonder if that was causing it on mine).
05-17-2020, 12:00 PM
#3
X Double Dot sub'dThe air temp doesn't seem to matter in my case. But you may have a point about it starting after the glow plugs cycle. It does take some time for the miss to start.
I have a similar issue, the blue smoke starts up after the glow plugs have kicked off (I have a light that is wired to the glow plugs which are on a i/o relay so I know when they kick off). It's very noticeable when it's below 70F out. It isn't noticeable when the engine temp is above 70-80F.
Do you think it is related to air getting into the injection pump/injectors and retarding the timing? The issue getting worse when there isn't a glow plug on to make sure the fuel burns?
(interesting to hear you replaced the turbo and it didn't make a difference, I was starting to wonder if that was causing it on mine).
I don't think it is a air in the fuel issue, I have replaced everything in the fuel system and there is no air bubbles in the plastic fuel lines.
I am going further and taking the injectors out and pulling the prechambers. I did see some bubbles around the prechamber ring on #5 when I had it running. I am also going to check the timing and see if the chain is stretched.
The oil drainback holes seem to be fine so that eliminates that possibility of the oil pooling around the rear valve .guide. I also noticed # 6 injector was not sealing well to the sealing washer for some reason. Going to clean everything up and reassemble.
Thanks Zeeman
X Double Dot sub'dThe air temp doesn't seem to matter in my case. But you may have a point about it starting after the glow plugs cycle. It does take some time for the miss to start.
I have a similar issue, the blue smoke starts up after the glow plugs have kicked off (I have a light that is wired to the glow plugs which are on a i/o relay so I know when they kick off). It's very noticeable when it's below 70F out. It isn't noticeable when the engine temp is above 70-80F.
Do you think it is related to air getting into the injection pump/injectors and retarding the timing? The issue getting worse when there isn't a glow plug on to make sure the fuel burns?
(interesting to hear you replaced the turbo and it didn't make a difference, I was starting to wonder if that was causing it on mine).
I don't think it is a air in the fuel issue, I have replaced everything in the fuel system and there is no air bubbles in the plastic fuel lines.
I am going further and taking the injectors out and pulling the prechambers. I did see some bubbles around the prechamber ring on #5 when I had it running. I am also going to check the timing and see if the chain is stretched.
The oil drainback holes seem to be fine so that eliminates that possibility of the oil pooling around the rear valve .guide. I also noticed # 6 injector was not sealing well to the sealing washer for some reason. Going to clean everything up and reassemble.
Thanks Zeeman
05-17-2020, 01:10 PM
#4
I have seen this with bent rods and leaking valves as well as damaged prechambers. I'm sure there's more scenarios that can cause it.
Baldur Gislason
blue smoke and misfire means it's getting fuel but not able to ignite it. To get reliable ignition you need a working injector that atomises the fuel well, you need a hot pre chamber and you need good compression.
I have seen this with bent rods and leaking valves as well as damaged prechambers. I'm sure there's more scenarios that can cause it.
Baldur Gislason
05-17-2020, 03:45 PM
#5
Let me know how your prechambers look, i've been suspicious about those as well but again have been holding off due to the tools etc that would be needed. That said I'd prefer to replace those over pulling the head.
I'm similar to you in that I've rebuilt and reshimmed the injectors, redone the fuel lines, replaced the glow plugs and still have the issue.
X Double Dot
05-17-2020, 03:45 PM #5yea I've been meaning to do a compression test, i just know it's going to cost me a bit to buy a tester with the right threads etc. when I had the pan off the cylinder walls all had good cross hatching, but that doesn't mean the rings (and valves) were actually sealing.
Let me know how your prechambers look, i've been suspicious about those as well but again have been holding off due to the tools etc that would be needed. That said I'd prefer to replace those over pulling the head.
I'm similar to you in that I've rebuilt and reshimmed the injectors, redone the fuel lines, replaced the glow plugs and still have the issue.
05-29-2020, 11:40 AM
#6
X Double Dot
05-29-2020, 11:40 AM #6Did you find anything pulling the pre chambers? I've got tools on the way to do the same myself but was curious how it worked for you
05-30-2020, 10:16 AM
#7
X Double Dot Did you find anything pulling the pre chambers? I've got tools on the way to do the same myself but was curious how it worked for youThe prechambers were pretty dirty, and it seemed that one was not sealing completely. I did find one of the injectors was not operating correctly. I just had these injectors rebuilt by DBW LLC in Meridian Idaho and found one that had the needle sticking already after only 10 miles of driving. I dissembled the injector to find they never even lapped in any of the internal parts and the needle in the new nozzle was galled.
I called Pete at DBW LLC and asked if I could buy another nozzle and was told to send it back for repair. He provided a return form in which I had to pay almost $75.00 to have it sent back and checked. I had left the injector body loose so they could inspect it. When I received it back I checked it on my injector tester and it didn't pop off till 2500 psi. with a poor spray pattern. I went to take it a part and found it wasn't even torqued, and when I inspected it the same nozzle and needle was in it and it was worse then before. All they did was paint it and send it back.
I called Pete on it and he stated all you wanted me to do was clean and calibrate the injector and refused to do anything more, and claimed I must have gotten debris in it. He then stated that they calibrate the injector to flow not pressure, so the pressure can vary. WTF What kind of a business is this.
Anyway I am repairing the injectors myself and I am waiting for the new delivery valves to arrive from the UK and will post an update then.
This post was last modified: 05-30-2020, 10:22 AM by zeeman.
X Double Dot Did you find anything pulling the pre chambers? I've got tools on the way to do the same myself but was curious how it worked for youThe prechambers were pretty dirty, and it seemed that one was not sealing completely. I did find one of the injectors was not operating correctly. I just had these injectors rebuilt by DBW LLC in Meridian Idaho and found one that had the needle sticking already after only 10 miles of driving. I dissembled the injector to find they never even lapped in any of the internal parts and the needle in the new nozzle was galled.
I called Pete at DBW LLC and asked if I could buy another nozzle and was told to send it back for repair. He provided a return form in which I had to pay almost $75.00 to have it sent back and checked. I had left the injector body loose so they could inspect it. When I received it back I checked it on my injector tester and it didn't pop off till 2500 psi. with a poor spray pattern. I went to take it a part and found it wasn't even torqued, and when I inspected it the same nozzle and needle was in it and it was worse then before. All they did was paint it and send it back.
I called Pete on it and he stated all you wanted me to do was clean and calibrate the injector and refused to do anything more, and claimed I must have gotten debris in it. He then stated that they calibrate the injector to flow not pressure, so the pressure can vary. WTF What kind of a business is this.
Anyway I am repairing the injectors myself and I am waiting for the new delivery valves to arrive from the UK and will post an update then.
06-07-2020, 09:39 AM
#8
I also noticed that i was getting some leakage out of the injector return barbs. I know they are there for a reason, but does anyone have an idea how much is expected? my understanding is that this is from leakage internal to the injector on the non sealed surfaces, but that said, if the IP is sending a metered amount of fuel, there shouldn't be a ton coming out of these lines or the injector wouldn't be getting the proper injection qty correct?
Still waiting on my prechamber tool, but i'll post up any findings if/when I do get them out.
injector # - compression test (psi) - injector pop (psi)
1- 365 - 1975
2- 380 - 2025
3- 375 - 2010
4- 380 - 1980
5- 385 - 1990
6- 365 - 2020
haven't seen a compression test spec, but these seem to be a reasonable range and close to what most people are seeing. The injector range is 1958 - 2030psi from what I've seen.
X Double Dot
06-07-2020, 09:39 AM #8FWIW, as we seem to have a similar issues, albeit it could be caused by a number of things, on my way to pulling my prechambers I did a (cold) compression test the other night and repopped my injectors. While the number consistencies seemed reasonably close to what they should be, i did notice that my number 4 injector would start to pee a stream of fuel at 1900psi if I approached the pop pressure slowly. I'm going to replace that nozzle and see if it helps.
I also noticed that i was getting some leakage out of the injector return barbs. I know they are there for a reason, but does anyone have an idea how much is expected? my understanding is that this is from leakage internal to the injector on the non sealed surfaces, but that said, if the IP is sending a metered amount of fuel, there shouldn't be a ton coming out of these lines or the injector wouldn't be getting the proper injection qty correct?
Still waiting on my prechamber tool, but i'll post up any findings if/when I do get them out.
injector # - compression test (psi) - injector pop (psi)
1- 365 - 1975
2- 380 - 2025
3- 375 - 2010
4- 380 - 1980
5- 385 - 1990
6- 365 - 2020
haven't seen a compression test spec, but these seem to be a reasonable range and close to what most people are seeing. The injector range is 1958 - 2030psi from what I've seen.
06-07-2020, 12:08 PM
#9
X Double Dot FWIW, as we seem to have a similar issues, albeit it could be caused by a number of things, on my way to pulling my prechambers I did a (cold) compression test the other night and repopped my injectors. While the number consistencies seemed reasonably close to what they should be, i did notice that my number 4 injector would start to pee a stream of fuel at 1900psi if I approached the pop pressure slowly. I'm going to replace that nozzle and see if it helps.When your pop pressure test, there should not be much if anything coming out of the return barbs. I would check your mating surfaces the injector body and nozzle seal washer. The pop off pressure could stand to be a little more uniform, Usually 25 PSI difference between them is the norm. When the engine is running the return hoses bleed off the excess fuel and relieves the delivery valve when the injector closes. Check your prechambers for cracks when you get them out if you have had a injector dripping. I had one come apart in the cylinder and it was not pretty, engine rebuild time.
I also noticed that i was getting some leakage out of the injector return barbs. I know they are there for a reason, but does anyone have an idea how much is expected? my understanding is that this is from leakage internal to the injector on the non sealed surfaces, but that said, if the IP is sending a metered amount of fuel, there shouldn't be a ton coming out of these lines or the injector wouldn't be getting the proper injection qty correct?
Still waiting on my prechamber tool, but i'll post up any findings if/when I do get them out.
injector # - compression test (psi) - injector pop (psi)
1- 365 - 1975
2- 380 - 2025
3- 375 - 2010
4- 380 - 1980
5- 385 - 1990
6- 365 - 2020
haven't seen a compression test spec, but these seem to be a reasonable range and close to what most people are seeing. The injector range is 1958 - 2030psi from what I've seen.
This post was last modified: 06-07-2020, 12:18 PM by zeeman.
X Double Dot FWIW, as we seem to have a similar issues, albeit it could be caused by a number of things, on my way to pulling my prechambers I did a (cold) compression test the other night and repopped my injectors. While the number consistencies seemed reasonably close to what they should be, i did notice that my number 4 injector would start to pee a stream of fuel at 1900psi if I approached the pop pressure slowly. I'm going to replace that nozzle and see if it helps.When your pop pressure test, there should not be much if anything coming out of the return barbs. I would check your mating surfaces the injector body and nozzle seal washer. The pop off pressure could stand to be a little more uniform, Usually 25 PSI difference between them is the norm. When the engine is running the return hoses bleed off the excess fuel and relieves the delivery valve when the injector closes. Check your prechambers for cracks when you get them out if you have had a injector dripping. I had one come apart in the cylinder and it was not pretty, engine rebuild time.
I also noticed that i was getting some leakage out of the injector return barbs. I know they are there for a reason, but does anyone have an idea how much is expected? my understanding is that this is from leakage internal to the injector on the non sealed surfaces, but that said, if the IP is sending a metered amount of fuel, there shouldn't be a ton coming out of these lines or the injector wouldn't be getting the proper injection qty correct?
Still waiting on my prechamber tool, but i'll post up any findings if/when I do get them out.
injector # - compression test (psi) - injector pop (psi)
1- 365 - 1975
2- 380 - 2025
3- 375 - 2010
4- 380 - 1980
5- 385 - 1990
6- 365 - 2020
haven't seen a compression test spec, but these seem to be a reasonable range and close to what most people are seeing. The injector range is 1958 - 2030psi from what I've seen.
06-09-2020, 06:38 AM
#10
(06-07-2020, 12:08 PM)zeemanX Double Dot FWIW, as we seem to have a similar issues, albeit it could be caused by a number of things, on my way to pulling my prechambers I did a (cold) compression test the other night and repopped my injectors. While the number consistencies seemed reasonably close to what they should be, i did notice that my number 4 injector would start to pee a stream of fuel at 1900psi if I approached the pop pressure slowly. I'm going to replace that nozzle and see if it helps.When your pop pressure test, there should not be much if anything coming out of the return barbs. I would check your mating surfaces the injector body and nozzle seal washer. The pop off pressure could stand to be a little more uniform, Usually 25 PSI difference between them is the norm. When the engine is running the return hoses bleed off the excess fuel and relieves the delivery valve when the injector closes. Check your prechambers for cracks when you get them out if you have had a injector dripping. I had one come apart in the cylinder and it was not pretty, engine rebuild time.
I also noticed that i was getting some leakage out of the injector return barbs. I know they are there for a reason, but does anyone have an idea how much is expected? my understanding is that this is from leakage internal to the injector on the non sealed surfaces, but that said, if the IP is sending a metered amount of fuel, there shouldn't be a ton coming out of these lines or the injector wouldn't be getting the proper injection qty correct?
Still waiting on my prechamber tool, but i'll post up any findings if/when I do get them out.
injector # - compression test (psi) - injector pop (psi)
1- 365 - 1975
2- 380 - 2025
3- 375 - 2010
4- 380 - 1980
5- 385 - 1990
6- 365 - 2020
haven't seen a compression test spec, but these seem to be a reasonable range and close to what most people are seeing. The injector range is 1958 - 2030psi from what I've seen.
yeah it kind of made me suspicious that i need to lap the internal parts. I've certainly seen what i thought was a decent amount flow out of the return hoses when I first started it up the last time (watched as the air bubbles got pushed around). The injector bodies didn't leak at least.
b/c it didn't really "drip" until right before it would pop open i don't think I was getting alot of extra fuel out of that injector, nonetheless though I'll certainly look for cracks when i get it apart
X Double Dot
06-09-2020, 06:38 AM #10(06-07-2020, 12:08 PM)zeemanX Double Dot FWIW, as we seem to have a similar issues, albeit it could be caused by a number of things, on my way to pulling my prechambers I did a (cold) compression test the other night and repopped my injectors. While the number consistencies seemed reasonably close to what they should be, i did notice that my number 4 injector would start to pee a stream of fuel at 1900psi if I approached the pop pressure slowly. I'm going to replace that nozzle and see if it helps.When your pop pressure test, there should not be much if anything coming out of the return barbs. I would check your mating surfaces the injector body and nozzle seal washer. The pop off pressure could stand to be a little more uniform, Usually 25 PSI difference between them is the norm. When the engine is running the return hoses bleed off the excess fuel and relieves the delivery valve when the injector closes. Check your prechambers for cracks when you get them out if you have had a injector dripping. I had one come apart in the cylinder and it was not pretty, engine rebuild time.
I also noticed that i was getting some leakage out of the injector return barbs. I know they are there for a reason, but does anyone have an idea how much is expected? my understanding is that this is from leakage internal to the injector on the non sealed surfaces, but that said, if the IP is sending a metered amount of fuel, there shouldn't be a ton coming out of these lines or the injector wouldn't be getting the proper injection qty correct?
Still waiting on my prechamber tool, but i'll post up any findings if/when I do get them out.
injector # - compression test (psi) - injector pop (psi)
1- 365 - 1975
2- 380 - 2025
3- 375 - 2010
4- 380 - 1980
5- 385 - 1990
6- 365 - 2020
haven't seen a compression test spec, but these seem to be a reasonable range and close to what most people are seeing. The injector range is 1958 - 2030psi from what I've seen.
yeah it kind of made me suspicious that i need to lap the internal parts. I've certainly seen what i thought was a decent amount flow out of the return hoses when I first started it up the last time (watched as the air bubbles got pushed around). The injector bodies didn't leak at least.
b/c it didn't really "drip" until right before it would pop open i don't think I was getting alot of extra fuel out of that injector, nonetheless though I'll certainly look for cracks when i get it apart
06-09-2020, 10:39 AM
#11
X Double DotWhat happens it will drip after the engine is shut off onto a hot prehamber and cause it to fail after some time. The return line from the injectors to the fuel filter will have fuel coming out of it when it is running, under low pressure.zeemanX Double Dot FWIW, as we seem to have a similar issues, albeit it could be caused by a number of things, on my way to pulling my prechambers I did a (cold) compression test the other night and repopped my injectors. While the number consistencies seemed reasonably close to what they should be, i did notice that my number 4 injector would start to pee a stream of fuel at 1900psi if I approached the pop pressure slowly. I'm going to replace that nozzle and see if it helps.When your pop pressure test, there should not be much if anything coming out of the return barbs. I would check your mating surfaces the injector body and nozzle seal washer. The pop off pressure could stand to be a little more uniform, Usually 25 PSI difference between them is the norm. When the engine is running the return hoses bleed off the excess fuel and relieves the delivery valve when the injector closes. Check your prechambers for cracks when you get them out if you have had a injector dripping. I had one come apart in the cylinder and it was not pretty, engine rebuild time.
I also noticed that i was getting some leakage out of the injector return barbs. I know they are there for a reason, but does anyone have an idea how much is expected? my understanding is that this is from leakage internal to the injector on the non sealed surfaces, but that said, if the IP is sending a metered amount of fuel, there shouldn't be a ton coming out of these lines or the injector wouldn't be getting the proper injection qty correct?
Still waiting on my prechamber tool, but i'll post up any findings if/when I do get them out.
injector # - compression test (psi) - injector pop (psi)
1- 365 - 1975
2- 380 - 2025
3- 375 - 2010
4- 380 - 1980
5- 385 - 1990
6- 365 - 2020
haven't seen a compression test spec, but these seem to be a reasonable range and close to what most people are seeing. The injector range is 1958 - 2030psi from what I've seen.
yeah it kind of made me suspicious that i need to lap the internal parts. I've certainly seen what i thought was a decent amount flow out of the return hoses when I first started it up the last time (watched as the air bubbles got pushed around). The injector bodies didn't leak at least.
b/c it didn't really "drip" until right before it would pop open i don't think I was getting alot of extra fuel out of that injector, nonetheless though I'll certainly look for cracks when i get it apart
X Double DotWhat happens it will drip after the engine is shut off onto a hot prehamber and cause it to fail after some time. The return line from the injectors to the fuel filter will have fuel coming out of it when it is running, under low pressure.zeemanX Double Dot FWIW, as we seem to have a similar issues, albeit it could be caused by a number of things, on my way to pulling my prechambers I did a (cold) compression test the other night and repopped my injectors. While the number consistencies seemed reasonably close to what they should be, i did notice that my number 4 injector would start to pee a stream of fuel at 1900psi if I approached the pop pressure slowly. I'm going to replace that nozzle and see if it helps.When your pop pressure test, there should not be much if anything coming out of the return barbs. I would check your mating surfaces the injector body and nozzle seal washer. The pop off pressure could stand to be a little more uniform, Usually 25 PSI difference between them is the norm. When the engine is running the return hoses bleed off the excess fuel and relieves the delivery valve when the injector closes. Check your prechambers for cracks when you get them out if you have had a injector dripping. I had one come apart in the cylinder and it was not pretty, engine rebuild time.
I also noticed that i was getting some leakage out of the injector return barbs. I know they are there for a reason, but does anyone have an idea how much is expected? my understanding is that this is from leakage internal to the injector on the non sealed surfaces, but that said, if the IP is sending a metered amount of fuel, there shouldn't be a ton coming out of these lines or the injector wouldn't be getting the proper injection qty correct?
Still waiting on my prechamber tool, but i'll post up any findings if/when I do get them out.
injector # - compression test (psi) - injector pop (psi)
1- 365 - 1975
2- 380 - 2025
3- 375 - 2010
4- 380 - 1980
5- 385 - 1990
6- 365 - 2020
haven't seen a compression test spec, but these seem to be a reasonable range and close to what most people are seeing. The injector range is 1958 - 2030psi from what I've seen.
yeah it kind of made me suspicious that i need to lap the internal parts. I've certainly seen what i thought was a decent amount flow out of the return hoses when I first started it up the last time (watched as the air bubbles got pushed around). The injector bodies didn't leak at least.
b/c it didn't really "drip" until right before it would pop open i don't think I was getting alot of extra fuel out of that injector, nonetheless though I'll certainly look for cracks when i get it apart
06-17-2020, 06:32 AM
#12
I'm going to buff the applicable surfaces on the injector and see if it reduces any of the bypass when i replace the nozzle on the leaky one.
i was successful in getting a prechamber out last night. Any tips for inspection/re installation? I assume wire brushing them off and maybe a light coat of copper anti-seize on the pressfit portion of the surface?
X Double Dot
06-17-2020, 06:32 AM #12any idea how much leakage is normal? Couldn't find any threads anywhere that discussed this. it would be great if someone could disconnect the return hose and hold it vertical and say it takes ~20 seconds at idle to climb ~10 inches (or whatever it is). Ideally i know nothing would leak out, but since these are metal on metal surfaces i know some rate is to be expected. If it's really high, I was wondering if this could lead to retarded timing, as the pressure wouldn't build as quickly and the injector would pop slightly later?
I'm going to buff the applicable surfaces on the injector and see if it reduces any of the bypass when i replace the nozzle on the leaky one.
i was successful in getting a prechamber out last night. Any tips for inspection/re installation? I assume wire brushing them off and maybe a light coat of copper anti-seize on the pressfit portion of the surface?
06-17-2020, 11:29 AM
#13
X Double Dot any idea how much leakage is normal? Couldn't find any threads anywhere that discussed this. it would be great if someone could disconnect the return hose and hold it vertical and say it takes ~20 seconds at idle to climb ~10 inches (or whatever it is). Ideally i know nothing would leak out, but since these are metal on metal surfaces i know some rate is to be expected. If it's really high, I was wondering if this could lead to retarded timing, as the pressure wouldn't build as quickly and the injector would pop slightly later?Not sure if your referring to when your pop testing or when the vehicle is running. During pop testing there should be no fuel coming out of the return ports if everything is sealed in the injector body. When running the vehicle with the return hose off the fuel filter banjo there will be a steady flow of fuel at a low pressure.
I'm going to buff the applicable surfaces on the injector and see if it reduces any of the bypass when i replace the nozzle on the leaky one.
i was successful in getting a prechamber out last night. Any tips for inspection/re installation? I assume wire brushing them off and maybe a light coat of copper anti-seize on the pressfit portion of the surface?
Lap all the mating surfaces in the injector and inspect the nozzle for flatness.
I soak the prechambers in parts dip, and inspect them for cracks around the holes. reinstall them with a high temp anti seize. Make sure to clean the seat in the head well and torque them to the correct torque.
X Double Dot any idea how much leakage is normal? Couldn't find any threads anywhere that discussed this. it would be great if someone could disconnect the return hose and hold it vertical and say it takes ~20 seconds at idle to climb ~10 inches (or whatever it is). Ideally i know nothing would leak out, but since these are metal on metal surfaces i know some rate is to be expected. If it's really high, I was wondering if this could lead to retarded timing, as the pressure wouldn't build as quickly and the injector would pop slightly later?Not sure if your referring to when your pop testing or when the vehicle is running. During pop testing there should be no fuel coming out of the return ports if everything is sealed in the injector body. When running the vehicle with the return hose off the fuel filter banjo there will be a steady flow of fuel at a low pressure.
I'm going to buff the applicable surfaces on the injector and see if it reduces any of the bypass when i replace the nozzle on the leaky one.
i was successful in getting a prechamber out last night. Any tips for inspection/re installation? I assume wire brushing them off and maybe a light coat of copper anti-seize on the pressfit portion of the surface?
Lap all the mating surfaces in the injector and inspect the nozzle for flatness.
I soak the prechambers in parts dip, and inspect them for cracks around the holes. reinstall them with a high temp anti seize. Make sure to clean the seat in the head well and torque them to the correct torque.
06-18-2020, 06:36 AM
#14
Not sure if your referring to when your pop testing or when the vehicle is running. During pop testing there should be no fuel coming out of the return ports if everything is sealed in the injector body. When running the vehicle with the return hose off the fuel filter banjo there will be a steady flow of fuel at a low pressure.
[/quote]
Maybe I don't understand the function of the return. I assumed it was for internal leakage of the injector, which I would think would be possible from pop testing as well as normal engine running. The difference just being that there would be more flow when the engine is running. For pop testing, if i hold the injector at say 1800psi, i'm getting about 1 drop out of the barb per ~15 seconds.
The pressure on my pop tester will slowly bleed off if i stop increasing the handle travel, and i'm 90% sure it's through the injector and out the barb.
is this normal or could this be causing me issues with improper injection timing/qty?
X Double Dot
06-18-2020, 06:36 AM #14[quote pid='90552' dateline='1592411347']
Not sure if your referring to when your pop testing or when the vehicle is running. During pop testing there should be no fuel coming out of the return ports if everything is sealed in the injector body. When running the vehicle with the return hose off the fuel filter banjo there will be a steady flow of fuel at a low pressure.
[/quote]
Maybe I don't understand the function of the return. I assumed it was for internal leakage of the injector, which I would think would be possible from pop testing as well as normal engine running. The difference just being that there would be more flow when the engine is running. For pop testing, if i hold the injector at say 1800psi, i'm getting about 1 drop out of the barb per ~15 seconds.
The pressure on my pop tester will slowly bleed off if i stop increasing the handle travel, and i'm 90% sure it's through the injector and out the barb.
is this normal or could this be causing me issues with improper injection timing/qty?
06-18-2020, 11:02 AM
#15
X Double DotDepending on the pop tester it is normal.Quote:Not sure if your referring to when your pop testing or when the vehicle is running. During pop testing there should be no fuel coming out of the return ports if everything is sealed in the injector body. When running the vehicle with the return hose off the fuel filter banjo there will be a steady flow of fuel at a low pressure.Maybe I don't understand the function of the return. I assumed it was for internal leakage of the injector, which I would think would be possible from pop testing as well as normal engine running. The difference just being that there would be more flow when the engine is running. For pop testing, if i hold the injector at say 1800psi, i'm getting about 1 drop out of the barb per ~15 seconds.
The pressure on my pop tester will slowly bleed off if i stop increasing the handle travel, and i'm 90% sure it's through the injector and out the barb.
is this normal or could this be causing me issues with improper injection timing/qty?
X Double DotDepending on the pop tester it is normal.Quote:Not sure if your referring to when your pop testing or when the vehicle is running. During pop testing there should be no fuel coming out of the return ports if everything is sealed in the injector body. When running the vehicle with the return hose off the fuel filter banjo there will be a steady flow of fuel at a low pressure.Maybe I don't understand the function of the return. I assumed it was for internal leakage of the injector, which I would think would be possible from pop testing as well as normal engine running. The difference just being that there would be more flow when the engine is running. For pop testing, if i hold the injector at say 1800psi, i'm getting about 1 drop out of the barb per ~15 seconds.
The pressure on my pop tester will slowly bleed off if i stop increasing the handle travel, and i'm 90% sure it's through the injector and out the barb.
is this normal or could this be causing me issues with improper injection timing/qty?
06-18-2020, 12:57 PM
#16
just slid them all back in (after cleaning everything) and will start redoing that nozzle now. anyone know the torque spec for the prechamber retainers? Lots of info for the older style but haven't been able to find anything on the 606 *edit, looks like 130nm for the splined style on a om602, i assume those are the same?*
This post was last modified: 06-18-2020, 01:00 PM by X Double Dot.
X Double Dot
06-18-2020, 12:57 PM #16Just pulled the prechambers, they all had the ball in there. Couldn't find any cracks or issues with them either. I'd post a picture but this site won't seem to let me.
just slid them all back in (after cleaning everything) and will start redoing that nozzle now. anyone know the torque spec for the prechamber retainers? Lots of info for the older style but haven't been able to find anything on the 606 *edit, looks like 130nm for the splined style on a om602, i assume those are the same?*
06-18-2020, 02:16 PM
#17
X Double Dot Just pulled the prechambers, they all had the ball in there. Couldn't find any cracks or issues with them either. I'd post a picture but this site won't seem to let me.130 nm Prechambers
just slid them all back in (after cleaning everything) and will start redoing that nozzle now. anyone know the torque spec for the prechamber retainers? Lots of info for the older style but haven't been able to find anything on the 606 *edit, looks like 130nm for the splined style on a om602, i assume those are the same?*
40 nm injectors to head
70-80 nm injector body
X Double Dot Just pulled the prechambers, they all had the ball in there. Couldn't find any cracks or issues with them either. I'd post a picture but this site won't seem to let me.130 nm Prechambers
just slid them all back in (after cleaning everything) and will start redoing that nozzle now. anyone know the torque spec for the prechamber retainers? Lots of info for the older style but haven't been able to find anything on the 606 *edit, looks like 130nm for the splined style on a om602, i assume those are the same?*
40 nm injectors to head
70-80 nm injector body
06-18-2020, 06:06 PM
#18
(06-18-2020, 02:16 PM)zeemanThanks for those. Unfortunately this is the 3rd time I've had the injectors out so I've got those other 2 haha. I added the new nozzle on #4 and it fixed the "peeing" at 1900psi. I lapped the internals on that one too and was interested how it now had the machine gun firing pattern. I didn't know if it was the nozzle or the lapping/better internal sealing. I lapped the internals on 2 others and it didn't change (no machine gun pop action). How do yours fire?X Double Dot Just pulled the prechambers, they all had the ball in there. Couldn't find any cracks or issues with them either. I'd post a picture but this site won't seem to let me.130 nm Prechambers
just slid them all back in (after cleaning everything) and will start redoing that nozzle now. anyone know the torque spec for the prechamber retainers? Lots of info for the older style but haven't been able to find anything on the 606 *edit, looks like 130nm for the splined style on a om602, i assume those are the same?*
40 nm injectors to head
70-80 nm injector body
I repopped the other 5 again and noticed on 2 others that if I held them essentially at the pressure that they were just about to fire at, that they started to create a droplet if I held it long enough. Obviously the engine doesnt really apply the pressure rise slow like this so I'm wondering if it matters. Those firad 314 nozzles only have about 3000? Miles on them so they shouldn't be worn out...but it has me wondering if I got a bad batch.
X Double Dot
06-18-2020, 06:06 PM #18(06-18-2020, 02:16 PM)zeemanThanks for those. Unfortunately this is the 3rd time I've had the injectors out so I've got those other 2 haha. I added the new nozzle on #4 and it fixed the "peeing" at 1900psi. I lapped the internals on that one too and was interested how it now had the machine gun firing pattern. I didn't know if it was the nozzle or the lapping/better internal sealing. I lapped the internals on 2 others and it didn't change (no machine gun pop action). How do yours fire?X Double Dot Just pulled the prechambers, they all had the ball in there. Couldn't find any cracks or issues with them either. I'd post a picture but this site won't seem to let me.130 nm Prechambers
just slid them all back in (after cleaning everything) and will start redoing that nozzle now. anyone know the torque spec for the prechamber retainers? Lots of info for the older style but haven't been able to find anything on the 606 *edit, looks like 130nm for the splined style on a om602, i assume those are the same?*
40 nm injectors to head
70-80 nm injector body
I repopped the other 5 again and noticed on 2 others that if I held them essentially at the pressure that they were just about to fire at, that they started to create a droplet if I held it long enough. Obviously the engine doesnt really apply the pressure rise slow like this so I'm wondering if it matters. Those firad 314 nozzles only have about 3000? Miles on them so they shouldn't be worn out...but it has me wondering if I got a bad batch.
06-20-2020, 10:15 AM
#19
X Double DotWhat kind of a tester are you using ?zeemanThanks for those. Unfortunately this is the 3rd time I've had the injectors out so I've got those other 2 haha. I added the new nozzle on #4 and it fixed the "peeing" at 1900psi. I lapped the internals on that one too and was interested how it now had the machine gun firing pattern. I didn't know if it was the nozzle or the lapping/better internal sealing. I lapped the internals on 2 others and it didn't change (no machine gun pop action). How do yours fire?X Double Dot Just pulled the prechambers, they all had the ball in there. Couldn't find any cracks or issues with them either. I'd post a picture but this site won't seem to let me.130 nm Prechambers
just slid them all back in (after cleaning everything) and will start redoing that nozzle now. anyone know the torque spec for the prechamber retainers? Lots of info for the older style but haven't been able to find anything on the 606 *edit, looks like 130nm for the splined style on a om602, i assume those are the same?*
40 nm injectors to head
70-80 nm injector body
I repopped the other 5 again and noticed on 2 others that if I held them essentially at the pressure that they were just about to fire at, that they started to create a droplet if I held it long enough. Obviously the engine doesnt really apply the pressure rise slow like this so I'm wondering if it matters. Those firad 314 nozzles only have about 3000? Miles on them so they shouldn't be worn out...but it has me wondering if I got a bad batch.
X Double DotWhat kind of a tester are you using ?zeemanThanks for those. Unfortunately this is the 3rd time I've had the injectors out so I've got those other 2 haha. I added the new nozzle on #4 and it fixed the "peeing" at 1900psi. I lapped the internals on that one too and was interested how it now had the machine gun firing pattern. I didn't know if it was the nozzle or the lapping/better internal sealing. I lapped the internals on 2 others and it didn't change (no machine gun pop action). How do yours fire?X Double Dot Just pulled the prechambers, they all had the ball in there. Couldn't find any cracks or issues with them either. I'd post a picture but this site won't seem to let me.130 nm Prechambers
just slid them all back in (after cleaning everything) and will start redoing that nozzle now. anyone know the torque spec for the prechamber retainers? Lots of info for the older style but haven't been able to find anything on the 606 *edit, looks like 130nm for the splined style on a om602, i assume those are the same?*
40 nm injectors to head
70-80 nm injector body
I repopped the other 5 again and noticed on 2 others that if I held them essentially at the pressure that they were just about to fire at, that they started to create a droplet if I held it long enough. Obviously the engine doesnt really apply the pressure rise slow like this so I'm wondering if it matters. Those firad 314 nozzles only have about 3000? Miles on them so they shouldn't be worn out...but it has me wondering if I got a bad batch.
06-20-2020, 02:58 PM
#20
EDIT: the first posts in this thread seem to indicate that "Slow lame cranks on it can make anything piss, but that's not the way your IP works." so I think what I was seeing is pretty normal. I did order 5 more Firad nozzels though as the one I did replace seemed to fire more "crisp"
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...-tips.html
This post was last modified: 06-24-2020, 07:56 AM by X Double Dot.
X Double Dot
06-20-2020, 02:58 PM #20a bottle jack style, very similar to the mercedes source one, I just bought the upper half (gauge and tee fitting) and mated it to a bottle jack myself. i've noticed in some videos the injectors tend to make a "chirp" noise, whereas mine (aside from the one i just replaced) tend to stay open longer and bleed off significantly more fuel.
EDIT: the first posts in this thread seem to indicate that "Slow lame cranks on it can make anything piss, but that's not the way your IP works." so I think what I was seeing is pretty normal. I did order 5 more Firad nozzels though as the one I did replace seemed to fire more "crisp"
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...-tips.html
07-07-2020, 06:33 AM
#21
-Pulled and inspected Prechambers - all good, no cracks, ball intact etc
-Redid the injectors, replaced 4 nozzles on ones i didn't like the pattern on, pee'd slightly. Old nozzles only have 3k miles on them btw. popped them all at 2000psi
-Set pump timing at 12-12.5° atdc
-compression tested the cylinders (numbers above in this thread)
put everything back together....no change still blue smoke at idle when the GPs shut off.
I have another edc pump to try at some point. I've redone the delivery valve seals/washers on the existing pump (twice to make sure i didn't screw something up), but hoping there might be something i'm missing with it.
X Double Dot
07-07-2020, 06:33 AM #21For anyone following this I figured I'd update from my side.
-Pulled and inspected Prechambers - all good, no cracks, ball intact etc
-Redid the injectors, replaced 4 nozzles on ones i didn't like the pattern on, pee'd slightly. Old nozzles only have 3k miles on them btw. popped them all at 2000psi
-Set pump timing at 12-12.5° atdc
-compression tested the cylinders (numbers above in this thread)
put everything back together....no change still blue smoke at idle when the GPs shut off.
I have another edc pump to try at some point. I've redone the delivery valve seals/washers on the existing pump (twice to make sure i didn't screw something up), but hoping there might be something i'm missing with it.
07-07-2020, 10:05 AM
#22
X Double Dot For anyone following this I figured I'd update from my side.Did you check the turbo for oil leaks ? Can't remember.
-Pulled and inspected Prechambers - all good, no cracks, ball intact etc
-Redid the injectors, replaced 4 nozzles on ones i didn't like the pattern on, pee'd slightly. Old nozzles only have 3k miles on them btw. popped them all at 2000psi
-Set pump timing at 12-12.5° atdc
-compression tested the cylinders (numbers above in this thread)
put everything back together....no change still blue smoke at idle when the GPs shut off.
I have another edc pump to try at some point. I've redone the delivery valve seals/washers on the existing pump (twice to make sure i didn't screw something up), but hoping there might be something i'm missing with it.
X Double Dot For anyone following this I figured I'd update from my side.Did you check the turbo for oil leaks ? Can't remember.
-Pulled and inspected Prechambers - all good, no cracks, ball intact etc
-Redid the injectors, replaced 4 nozzles on ones i didn't like the pattern on, pee'd slightly. Old nozzles only have 3k miles on them btw. popped them all at 2000psi
-Set pump timing at 12-12.5° atdc
-compression tested the cylinders (numbers above in this thread)
put everything back together....no change still blue smoke at idle when the GPs shut off.
I have another edc pump to try at some point. I've redone the delivery valve seals/washers on the existing pump (twice to make sure i didn't screw something up), but hoping there might be something i'm missing with it.
07-07-2020, 11:14 AM
#23
X Double Dot
07-07-2020, 11:14 AM #23I actually idled it without the intake manifold off as I was looking for bubbles in the fuel lines. If it's coming from the turbo it guess it would have to be on the turbine side. I THINK taht is unlikely because the blue smoke seems to show up with the glow plugs shutting off
08-03-2020, 07:27 PM
#24
X Double Dot I actually idled it without the intake manifold off as I was looking for bubbles in the fuel lines. If it's coming from the turbo it guess it would have to be on the turbine side. I THINK taht is unlikely because the blue smoke seems to show up with the glow plugs shutting offI finally got my engine back together, along with everything I already did I have replaced the delivery valves and springs, rebuilt the injectors, changed the cam gear. It does exactly the same thing, a miss and excessive smoke at an idle.
I am at a loss of what to do next other then change the injection pump.
It seems that injection pumps rarely fail, it runs fine at high RPM.
X Double Dot I actually idled it without the intake manifold off as I was looking for bubbles in the fuel lines. If it's coming from the turbo it guess it would have to be on the turbine side. I THINK taht is unlikely because the blue smoke seems to show up with the glow plugs shutting offI finally got my engine back together, along with everything I already did I have replaced the delivery valves and springs, rebuilt the injectors, changed the cam gear. It does exactly the same thing, a miss and excessive smoke at an idle.
I am at a loss of what to do next other then change the injection pump.
It seems that injection pumps rarely fail, it runs fine at high RPM.
08-11-2020, 11:13 AM
#25
zeemanI changed the injection pump and it runs fine now. There must have been a problem internally with the injection pump. Also eliminating the EGR made a big difference in performance.X Double Dot I actually idled it without the intake manifold off as I was looking for bubbles in the fuel lines. If it's coming from the turbo it guess it would have to be on the turbine side. I THINK taht is unlikely because the blue smoke seems to show up with the glow plugs shutting offI finally got my engine back together, along with everything I already did I have replaced the delivery valves and springs, rebuilt the injectors, changed the cam gear. It does exactly the same thing, a miss and excessive smoke at an idle.
I am at a loss of what to do next other then change the injection pump.
It seems that injection pumps rarely fail, it runs fine at high RPM.
zeemanI changed the injection pump and it runs fine now. There must have been a problem internally with the injection pump. Also eliminating the EGR made a big difference in performance.X Double Dot I actually idled it without the intake manifold off as I was looking for bubbles in the fuel lines. If it's coming from the turbo it guess it would have to be on the turbine side. I THINK taht is unlikely because the blue smoke seems to show up with the glow plugs shutting offI finally got my engine back together, along with everything I already did I have replaced the delivery valves and springs, rebuilt the injectors, changed the cam gear. It does exactly the same thing, a miss and excessive smoke at an idle.
I am at a loss of what to do next other then change the injection pump.
It seems that injection pumps rarely fail, it runs fine at high RPM.
08-17-2020, 07:23 AM
#26
(08-11-2020, 11:13 AM)zeemanwow...good to know. Thanks for following back up. Did you just throw a used one on there you found off ebay? Mine doesn't have the miss, but it does start to blue smoke even when it's 80F out. I can mask it with the glow plugs but I'm leaning towards the IP causing some delayed timing at lower rpm.zeemanI changed the injection pump and it runs fine now. There must have been a problem internally with the injection pump. Also eliminating the EGR made a big difference in performance.X Double Dot I actually idled it without the intake manifold off as I was looking for bubbles in the fuel lines. If it's coming from the turbo it guess it would have to be on the turbine side. I THINK taht is unlikely because the blue smoke seems to show up with the glow plugs shutting offI finally got my engine back together, along with everything I already did I have replaced the delivery valves and springs, rebuilt the injectors, changed the cam gear. It does exactly the same thing, a miss and excessive smoke at an idle.
I am at a loss of what to do next other then change the injection pump.
It seems that injection pumps rarely fail, it runs fine at high RPM.
X Double Dot
08-17-2020, 07:23 AM #26(08-11-2020, 11:13 AM)zeemanwow...good to know. Thanks for following back up. Did you just throw a used one on there you found off ebay? Mine doesn't have the miss, but it does start to blue smoke even when it's 80F out. I can mask it with the glow plugs but I'm leaning towards the IP causing some delayed timing at lower rpm.zeemanI changed the injection pump and it runs fine now. There must have been a problem internally with the injection pump. Also eliminating the EGR made a big difference in performance.X Double Dot I actually idled it without the intake manifold off as I was looking for bubbles in the fuel lines. If it's coming from the turbo it guess it would have to be on the turbine side. I THINK taht is unlikely because the blue smoke seems to show up with the glow plugs shutting offI finally got my engine back together, along with everything I already did I have replaced the delivery valves and springs, rebuilt the injectors, changed the cam gear. It does exactly the same thing, a miss and excessive smoke at an idle.
I am at a loss of what to do next other then change the injection pump.
It seems that injection pumps rarely fail, it runs fine at high RPM.
08-17-2020, 08:46 AM
#27
X Double DotI had a known good pump off of a used engine I had in stock. Another thing to look at is the fuel shut off valve, it has a fuel temp sensor that controls fuel supply . It does a lot more then shut off the fuel.zeemanwow...good to know. Thanks for following back up. Did you just throw a used one on there you found off ebay? Mine doesn't have the miss, but it does start to blue smoke even when it's 80F out. I can mask it with the glow plugs but I'm leaning towards the IP causing some delayed timing at lower rpm.zeeman I finally got my engine back together, along with everything I already did I have replaced the delivery valves and springs, rebuilt the injectors, changed the cam gear. It does exactly the same thing, a miss and excessive smoke at an idle.I changed the injection pump and it runs fine now. There must have been a problem internally with the injection pump. Also eliminating the EGR made a big difference in performance.
I am at a loss of what to do next other then change the injection pump.
It seems that injection pumps rarely fail, it runs fine at high RPM.
X Double DotI had a known good pump off of a used engine I had in stock. Another thing to look at is the fuel shut off valve, it has a fuel temp sensor that controls fuel supply . It does a lot more then shut off the fuel.zeemanwow...good to know. Thanks for following back up. Did you just throw a used one on there you found off ebay? Mine doesn't have the miss, but it does start to blue smoke even when it's 80F out. I can mask it with the glow plugs but I'm leaning towards the IP causing some delayed timing at lower rpm.zeeman I finally got my engine back together, along with everything I already did I have replaced the delivery valves and springs, rebuilt the injectors, changed the cam gear. It does exactly the same thing, a miss and excessive smoke at an idle.I changed the injection pump and it runs fine now. There must have been a problem internally with the injection pump. Also eliminating the EGR made a big difference in performance.
I am at a loss of what to do next other then change the injection pump.
It seems that injection pumps rarely fail, it runs fine at high RPM.
08-17-2020, 10:07 AM
#28
Does it regulate itself internally/mechanically to some degree like a thermostat? I have an electric pump with the dsl1 ecu with no known parameters for anything like that. I don't think baldur has anything going on behind the scenes either for it.
X Double Dot
08-17-2020, 10:07 AM #28interesting, I wasn't aware that the SOV did anything like that. I was pretty sure it was either an on or off type of thing.
Does it regulate itself internally/mechanically to some degree like a thermostat? I have an electric pump with the dsl1 ecu with no known parameters for anything like that. I don't think baldur has anything going on behind the scenes either for it.
08-20-2020, 07:29 AM
#30
(08-17-2020, 04:48 PM)AlanMcR It is just a solenoid valve with an integrated temperature sensor. Both features are wired back to the ECU independently. Nothing smart in there at all. About the only other thing that they do is leak.thanks for clarifying!
X Double Dot
08-20-2020, 07:29 AM #30(08-17-2020, 04:48 PM)AlanMcR It is just a solenoid valve with an integrated temperature sensor. Both features are wired back to the ECU independently. Nothing smart in there at all. About the only other thing that they do is leak.thanks for clarifying!
08-21-2020, 12:35 PM
#31
X Double DotIf you go on Peach parts forum and type in, 1996 Mercedes E-300 ifi Electrohydraulic shut-off it goes into more detail as to what all this shut-off valve does.AlanMcR It is just a solenoid valve with an integrated temperature sensor. Both features are wired back to the ECU independently. Nothing smart in there at all. About the only other thing that they do is leak.thanks for clarifying!
X Double DotIf you go on Peach parts forum and type in, 1996 Mercedes E-300 ifi Electrohydraulic shut-off it goes into more detail as to what all this shut-off valve does.AlanMcR It is just a solenoid valve with an integrated temperature sensor. Both features are wired back to the ECU independently. Nothing smart in there at all. About the only other thing that they do is leak.thanks for clarifying!
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