Does anyone have OM648 oilpan dimensions?
Does anyone have OM648 oilpan dimensions?
Does anyone have an OM648 oilpan or pump they could measure? I'm interested in:
1. Height at the shallower forward section (distance between block mounting surface and bottom, including any cast protrusions),
2. Length from transmission mounting surface to the front of the deeper rear section (vertical, or start of taper. Either one is ok, but please specify),
3. Length from transmission mounting surface to the oil pickup tube.
The first is to see if it'll clear a steering rack in my project, the second to see if it'll clear the subframe, and if not, the third will determine whether oilpump pickup modification will be required on top of oilpan trimming.
moroza Does anyone have an OM648 oilpan or pump they could measure? I'm interested in:Height of the shallow end of the pan is 4". From back of block to front of the deeper section straight down is 13". There is no room in the shallow part of the pan for modification, the oil pump is close to the bottom and the pickup tube runs right against the side of the pan. There is room in the deeper part for modification. There is a pickup in the front as well as in the rear. I have previous blogs on the OM 648 pan and oil pump on STD under Zeeman.
1. Height at the shallower forward section (distance between block mounting surface and bottom, including any cast protrusions),
2. Length from transmission mounting surface to the front of the deeper rear section (vertical, or start of taper. Either one is ok, but please specify),
3. Length from transmission mounting surface to the oil pickup tube.
The first is to see if it'll clear a steering rack in my project, the second to see if it'll clear the subframe, and if not, the third will determine whether oilpump pickup modification will be required on top of oilpan trimming.
moroza Does anyone have an OM648 oilpan or pump they could measure? I'm interested in:Height of the shallow end of the pan is 4". From back of block to front of the deeper section straight down is 13". There is no room in the shallow part of the pan for modification, the oil pump is close to the bottom and the pickup tube runs right against the side of the pan. There is room in the deeper part for modification. There is a pickup in the front as well as in the rear. I have previous blogs on the OM 648 pan and oil pump on STD under Zeeman.
1. Height at the shallower forward section (distance between block mounting surface and bottom, including any cast protrusions),
2. Length from transmission mounting surface to the front of the deeper rear section (vertical, or start of taper. Either one is ok, but please specify),
3. Length from transmission mounting surface to the oil pickup tube.
The first is to see if it'll clear a steering rack in my project, the second to see if it'll clear the subframe, and if not, the third will determine whether oilpump pickup modification will be required on top of oilpan trimming.
Thank you! I assume the 4" refers to the deeper side of the shallow section, that is, the front port-side corner of the oilpan, not front starboard?
More directly useful would be this: since the pan and engine are both tilted, do you happen to have a height measurement of the OM606 with 648 pan, from the bottom of the shallow section to the top of the engine (intake manifold, oil cap, and top of head are roughly at the same level when the engine is in its installed angle)?
moroza Thank you! I assume the 4" refers to the deeper side of the shallow section, that is, the front port-side corner of the oilpan, not front starboard?Yes the shallow measurement is the deeper part of the front sump. The engine sets at a 15 degree angle to the passenger side. The measurement from the shallow part of the pan on the drivers side to the highest point on the valve cover is 24".
More directly useful would be this: since the pan and engine are both tilted, do you happen to have a height measurement of the OM606 with 648 pan, from the bottom of the shallow section to the top of the engine (intake manifold, oil cap, and top of head are roughly at the same level when the engine is in its installed angle)?
moroza Thank you! I assume the 4" refers to the deeper side of the shallow section, that is, the front port-side corner of the oilpan, not front starboard?Yes the shallow measurement is the deeper part of the front sump. The engine sets at a 15 degree angle to the passenger side. The measurement from the shallow part of the pan on the drivers side to the highest point on the valve cover is 24".
More directly useful would be this: since the pan and engine are both tilted, do you happen to have a height measurement of the OM606 with 648 pan, from the bottom of the shallow section to the top of the engine (intake manifold, oil cap, and top of head are roughly at the same level when the engine is in its installed angle)?
have you considered a TDI engine? The 04 and 05 Passat TDI BHW engine? It's an inline 4 cyl diesel engine configuration albeit FWD. You could probably source an AWD transaxle or RWD tranny from Frans in Europe. That Bimmer AWD would rock! you can easily tune them to get over 200HP too and much easier than trying to stuff an OM 606 inline 6 into it. I have an OM606 in my 97 F150. I also have and had many TDI's. In fact I just bought an 05 manual passat tdi wagon.
I have great respect for the TDI, the early AHU and 1Z in particular, but the refinement is unacceptable for this level of vehicle. Now, a V6 TDI, maybe. But I already have the OM606.
By "won't fit", I mean that either the subframe will have to get spaced down, messing up suspension geometry, or I'd need a giant hood bulge, which I consider unacceptable. Surprisingly, the E38 7-series won't fit it either, even though those came with V12 engines.
It will, however, fit my E34. I'm undecided between putting it in that, a W140, or a Jaguar. But nobody cares about my Project thread
moroza I have great respect for the TDI, the early AHU and 1Z in particular, but the refinement is unacceptable for this level of vehicle. Now, a V6 TDI, maybe. But I already have the OM606.Why don't you post a picture of the subframe so we could maybe make some suggestions. Have you considered a dry sump?
By "won't fit", I mean that either the subframe will have to get spaced down, messing up suspension geometry, or I'd need a giant hood bulge, which I consider unacceptable. Surprisingly, the E38 7-series won't fit it either, even though those came with V12 engines.
It will, however, fit my E34. I'm undecided between putting it in that, a W140, or a Jaguar. But nobody cares about my Project thread
moroza I have great respect for the TDI, the early AHU and 1Z in particular, but the refinement is unacceptable for this level of vehicle. Now, a V6 TDI, maybe. But I already have the OM606.Why don't you post a picture of the subframe so we could maybe make some suggestions. Have you considered a dry sump?
By "won't fit", I mean that either the subframe will have to get spaced down, messing up suspension geometry, or I'd need a giant hood bulge, which I consider unacceptable. Surprisingly, the E38 7-series won't fit it either, even though those came with V12 engines.
It will, however, fit my E34. I'm undecided between putting it in that, a W140, or a Jaguar. But nobody cares about my Project thread
Nah, it's moot. The E39 is not a substantial enough upgrade over the E34 to want to bother with that much work. A dry sump of course occurred to me, but that level of custom work is beyond me, and I'm reluctant to outsource (in general). It's down to either the E34, the W140, or the Jag.
More helpful would be some advice on dealing with oil flow and pressure. Where do I pour it into to help prime the pump?
moroza Nah, it's moot. The E39 is not a substantial enough upgrade over the E34 to want to bother with that much work. A dry sump of course occurred to me, but that level of custom work is beyond me, and I'm reluctant to outsource (in general). It's down to either the E34, the W140, or the Jag.I have started fresh engines with just the oil in the oil pan. There should be no reason to prime the pump or fill the oil filter housing to get oil pressure. There is something wrong if your not getting oil pressure with just spinning the engine over.
More helpful would be some advice on dealing with oil flow and pressure. Where do I pour it into to help prime the pump?
moroza Nah, it's moot. The E39 is not a substantial enough upgrade over the E34 to want to bother with that much work. A dry sump of course occurred to me, but that level of custom work is beyond me, and I'm reluctant to outsource (in general). It's down to either the E34, the W140, or the Jag.I have started fresh engines with just the oil in the oil pan. There should be no reason to prime the pump or fill the oil filter housing to get oil pressure. There is something wrong if your not getting oil pressure with just spinning the engine over.
More helpful would be some advice on dealing with oil flow and pressure. Where do I pour it into to help prime the pump?