Engine Coolant temperatures.
Engine Coolant temperatures.
But with that said. For a while I was running the stock truck radiator for a 6.0 liter V8 and was having some near overheating issues with it. Due to space constraints, I made some dodge grand caravan rad fans and a shroud work... So to supplement that, I installed a civic radiator in the former location of my spare tire and ran it in series with my rear heat, heater core lines. It helped a bit but was still getting hot doing some hill climbs.
I managed to find a basically new Davies Craig electric water pump and fan controller and installed that at the thermostat inlet and to its instructions, drilled two small bypass holes in the thermostat. This also made an improvement as it ran a turbine style pump that was PWM modulated according to coolant temperature, and if that couldn't keep up it would kick on the fans on my rear radiator. That project was completed when it was late winter, early spring so it seemed to work and I thought I was in the clear...
Well on the big hills in the mountains in the summer the temperature continued to climb. The temperature would go over 3/4 on the gauge and the halfway point was 210 f or 98c. It has touched the red, twice. As soon as I hit the other side of the hill, it would drop to 180- 160 fairly quickly. Perhaps my radiator was plugged.
So I ditched that, perhaps a radiator from a 8.1 Liter chevy Avalanche would fit. Well it didn't, But I made it work anyway. It is massive, the measurements of the core is 32mm thick, its 498mm tall and is 960mm in length. Its a big boy, I was able to do up a radiator fan from a 2008 grand caravan to do 3/4 of the radiator and chop my earlier one in half and merge them together to take up the space of the immense core.
It holds damn near 16 liters of coolant, the fans are controlled by the factory GM PCM and are dual speed series parallel, I also installed the mercedes heater-core booster pump to aid flow to my rear radiator.
Well I went on another trip, I was climbing some cut blocks in the elk valley. And Low and behold, after the fourth switch back. The gauge went over half and creeped up to 3/4. So I stopped and let it cool down. This sucks boys..
Is my truck too heavy for the om606? Do you guys have low speed high load cooling issues with your 4x4 conversions?
I'll go to the dump and use the scale to get an actual weight of it..
Thanks for reading my blog post. btw I used those odd ball parts from things I had laying around..
Hey Gang, I have been running my om606 swapped Escalade for over a year and some change now. It is running a Compound stock turbo with an HE351cw turbo which is a little laggy. 30-35 psi due to weak 4l65e transmission. 2800 stall TCI convertor, Dieselmeken pump 7.5mm 155cc (I believe) and new firad nozzles. (nails a bit under light load)
But with that said. For a while I was running the stock truck radiator for a 6.0 liter V8 and was having some near overheating issues with it. Due to space constraints, I made some dodge grand caravan rad fans and a shroud work... So to supplement that, I installed a civic radiator in the former location of my spare tire and ran it in series with my rear heat, heater core lines. It helped a bit but was still getting hot doing some hill climbs.
I managed to find a basically new Davies Craig electric water pump and fan controller and installed that at the thermostat inlet and to its instructions, drilled two small bypass holes in the thermostat. This also made an improvement as it ran a turbine style pump that was PWM modulated according to coolant temperature, and if that couldn't keep up it would kick on the fans on my rear radiator. That project was completed when it was late winter, early spring so it seemed to work and I thought I was in the clear...
Well on the big hills in the mountains in the summer the temperature continued to climb. The temperature would go over 3/4 on the gauge and the halfway point was 210 f or 98c. It has touched the red, twice. As soon as I hit the other side of the hill, it would drop to 180- 160 fairly quickly. Perhaps my radiator was plugged.
So I ditched that, perhaps a radiator from a 8.1 Liter chevy Avalanche would fit. Well it didn't, But I made it work anyway. It is massive, the measurements of the core is 32mm thick, its 498mm tall and is 960mm in length. Its a big boy, I was able to do up a radiator fan from a 2008 grand caravan to do 3/4 of the radiator and chop my earlier one in half and merge them together to take up the space of the immense core.
It holds damn near 16 liters of coolant, the fans are controlled by the factory GM PCM and are dual speed series parallel, I also installed the mercedes heater-core booster pump to aid flow to my rear radiator.
Well I went on another trip, I was climbing some cut blocks in the elk valley. And Low and behold, after the fourth switch back. The gauge went over half and creeped up to 3/4. So I stopped and let it cool down. This sucks boys..
Is my truck too heavy for the om606? Do you guys have low speed high load cooling issues with your 4x4 conversions?
I'll go to the dump and use the scale to get an actual weight of it..
Thanks for reading my blog post. btw I used those odd ball parts from things I had laying around..
Sounds like quite the fancy setup, but you don't have a temp gauge that tells you the actual temp? Though I don't either haha. I ended up getting a radiator cap with temp gauge to compare with the OEM gauge. I found that my OEM gauge would quickly spike at anything above 190F and would be in the red by 210.
If the engine is working hard for a long period plus you're not moving particularly fast, then 220-230 isn't surprising. My other car coolant temp will hit 215-220 cruising up thru the mountain pass at 70MPH and it's basically stock plus an extra large radiator. As long as your coolant system stays pressurized then you're fine.
Otherwise stock Escalade? Are you pulling a trailer? Are we talking 30psi chugging along at 30mph for several minutes? Because thats quite the load on your cooling system. Also, what are your EGTs during these pulls? Does your compound setup you have an EWG to bypass exhaust around the stock turbo at higher flow levels? If not, then I imagine your exhaust pressure and EGT are quite high which isn't helping coolant temp.
You have radiator size covered, so your only other option is increasing airflow. The 8.1L fans wouldn't fit with the 8.1L radiator? If a good portion of coolant flow is going to the secondary radiator and it is getting overwhelmed then you'd be better off diverting less coolant to it.
My 606 in a big old FJ60 on 37s often pushes the factory temp gauge above its old normal operating range. I've never pushed 30psi slowly up switchbacks though lol. Similar volume radiator and only a single 2speed fan off of a Ford Taurus. Diesels have a reputation for running cooler than gasoline engines, but I think that goes out the window when you modify them and work them hard.
Sounds like quite the fancy setup, but you don't have a temp gauge that tells you the actual temp? Though I don't either haha. I ended up getting a radiator cap with temp gauge to compare with the OEM gauge. I found that my OEM gauge would quickly spike at anything above 190F and would be in the red by 210.
If the engine is working hard for a long period plus you're not moving particularly fast, then 220-230 isn't surprising. My other car coolant temp will hit 215-220 cruising up thru the mountain pass at 70MPH and it's basically stock plus an extra large radiator. As long as your coolant system stays pressurized then you're fine.
Otherwise stock Escalade? Are you pulling a trailer? Are we talking 30psi chugging along at 30mph for several minutes? Because thats quite the load on your cooling system. Also, what are your EGTs during these pulls? Does your compound setup you have an EWG to bypass exhaust around the stock turbo at higher flow levels? If not, then I imagine your exhaust pressure and EGT are quite high which isn't helping coolant temp.
You have radiator size covered, so your only other option is increasing airflow. The 8.1L fans wouldn't fit with the 8.1L radiator? If a good portion of coolant flow is going to the secondary radiator and it is getting overwhelmed then you'd be better off diverting less coolant to it.
When it is lugging on a cut block, I am talking driving over a bulldozed path with gravel, big rocks and branches for a road. The speeds don't exceed 25 mph at best. It's just really steep. And I am only making 10 psi at 2500 rpm. The stock vacuum wastegate actuator had been replaced with a pressure type from an sr20det Nissan. I put a spring on it to help hold it shut. It starts to crack at 20 psi. The he351 takes over and out drives it around that time then sails to 30+ psi but that isn't until 4000+ rpm.. I have no clue on my drive pressures.
Hey thanks for the quick reply. The Escalade is an esv that is camperized with the rear seats removed for a pull out galley and recovery equipment, chainsaw and tools. Everything added is basically constructed and scabbed together of aluminum. Roof tent/Jerry's etc. There is a winch bumper with a 12000 lb winch and push bar. 4:11 gears and 34.1" tires. It has Hummer h2 rear springs and 3" lift spacers with air bags in the coils. I don't see the stuff that took the space of the rear passenger compartment being heavier than 4 people. The tent on the other hand and 60 liters of liquid probably makes up for that. Ha.
When it is lugging on a cut block, I am talking driving over a bulldozed path with gravel, big rocks and branches for a road. The speeds don't exceed 25 mph at best. It's just really steep. And I am only making 10 psi at 2500 rpm. The stock vacuum wastegate actuator had been replaced with a pressure type from an sr20det Nissan. I put a spring on it to help hold it shut. It starts to crack at 20 psi. The he351 takes over and out drives it around that time then sails to 30+ psi but that isn't until 4000+ rpm.. I have no clue on my drive pressures.
Anyway, if we're talking about coolant temps at mid range rpm and low boost then it seems figuring out actual coolant temps is the easiest next step. If the factory gauge hits redline at 210 and your just occasionally hitting 210ish, then you don't really have a cooling problem.
Is your thermostat in backwards? Lol I only ask because I somehow put mine in backwards. Surprisingly it only seemed to have a small improvement after putting it in correctly.
Damn I'm jealous it sounds like a sweet rig. My Land cruiser project has been stagnant for a few years.
Anyway, if we're talking about coolant temps at mid range rpm and low boost then it seems figuring out actual coolant temps is the easiest next step. If the factory gauge hits redline at 210 and your just occasionally hitting 210ish, then you don't really have a cooling problem.
Is your thermostat in backwards? Lol I only ask because I somehow put mine in backwards. Surprisingly it only seemed to have a small improvement after putting it in correctly.
(08-12-2021, 05:24 PM)vica153 Damn I'm jealous it sounds like a sweet rig. My Land cruiser project has been stagnant for a few years.
Anyway, if we're talking about coolant temps at mid range rpm and low boost then it seems figuring out actual coolant temps is the easiest next step. If the factory gauge hits redline at 210 and your just occasionally hitting 210ish, then you don't really have a cooling problem.
Is your thermostat in backwards? Lol I only ask because I somehow put mine in backwards. Surprisingly it only seemed to have a small improvement after putting it in correctly.
Eh it's starting to look beat to hell to be honest, the gauge on the factory cluster has a mid point of 210f. It's just I get nervous when it starts to hit the 3/4 mark. Does anyone have a coolant flow diagram for the om606? I am pretty sure I put the tstat in correctly.
I was piecing the project and planning it for a couple of years. The only reason I took care of it was because of that international calamity that occurred. And I had lots of time.
(08-12-2021, 05:24 PM)vica153 Damn I'm jealous it sounds like a sweet rig. My Land cruiser project has been stagnant for a few years.
Anyway, if we're talking about coolant temps at mid range rpm and low boost then it seems figuring out actual coolant temps is the easiest next step. If the factory gauge hits redline at 210 and your just occasionally hitting 210ish, then you don't really have a cooling problem.
Is your thermostat in backwards? Lol I only ask because I somehow put mine in backwards. Surprisingly it only seemed to have a small improvement after putting it in correctly.
Eh it's starting to look beat to hell to be honest, the gauge on the factory cluster has a mid point of 210f. It's just I get nervous when it starts to hit the 3/4 mark. Does anyone have a coolant flow diagram for the om606? I am pretty sure I put the tstat in correctly.
I was piecing the project and planning it for a couple of years. The only reason I took care of it was because of that international calamity that occurred. And I had lots of time.
Where is your sensor for the temp gauge btw? I've found mine (606 in a 4x4 t100) shows hot on the toyota cluster gauge (but only reads 210ish on the mercedes sensor on the DSL1) on long highway climbs on 90°F days and it's only moving 5000lbs. The Toyota cluster sensor is mounted to the port near the rear of the head on the intake side. I suspect I need more flow out of the rear of the engine.
The stock 606 coolant setup has a bypass for the heater such that there is always flow coming out the back of the block regardless of if the heater is on. I've seen some swaps run this hose directly to a heater valve such that there isn't any flow coming out unless the heat is on. I suspect this causes the back cylinders to heat up more and if your temp sensor is back there it would likely show this. My current setup has a small bypass for the heater, however I don't believe it's full flow. I've seen the mod people do using the block coolant drain that plumbs it back into the water pump, have you tried that? Thats on my to do like the next time I drain the coolant.
X Double Dot
08-13-2021, 08:26 AM #6very cool, I'd be interested to see a build thread if you've got one somewhere.
Where is your sensor for the temp gauge btw? I've found mine (606 in a 4x4 t100) shows hot on the toyota cluster gauge (but only reads 210ish on the mercedes sensor on the DSL1) on long highway climbs on 90°F days and it's only moving 5000lbs. The Toyota cluster sensor is mounted to the port near the rear of the head on the intake side. I suspect I need more flow out of the rear of the engine.
The stock 606 coolant setup has a bypass for the heater such that there is always flow coming out the back of the block regardless of if the heater is on. I've seen some swaps run this hose directly to a heater valve such that there isn't any flow coming out unless the heat is on. I suspect this causes the back cylinders to heat up more and if your temp sensor is back there it would likely show this. My current setup has a small bypass for the heater, however I don't believe it's full flow. I've seen the mod people do using the block coolant drain that plumbs it back into the water pump, have you tried that? Thats on my to do like the next time I drain the coolant.
Also, on the driver's side of the head by cylinder 6 there is an extra port. I was planning on adding a hose fitting there and running it to the upper radiator hose to increase flow from the back of the engine.. It also a good spot to add in an expansion tank if you want.
Hmmm yeah thats a good point. Now that I think about it my FJ60 heater hose setup might have that issue.
Also, on the driver's side of the head by cylinder 6 there is an extra port. I was planning on adding a hose fitting there and running it to the upper radiator hose to increase flow from the back of the engine.. It also a good spot to add in an expansion tank if you want.
Now, for the coolant temp sensor for the Davies Craig EWP setup, I just drilled and tapped a hole in the thermostat housing. I do notice there are big differences in temperatures between the two areas from the cylinder head to what would be coming in from the radiator at the thermostat housing..
Ill have to do some more logging with the DSL1 for coolant temperature verification, but from what I noticed when glancing at it on my laptop it is bang on with the gm sensor for my cluster.
Another issue I noticed, is with my oil pressure on start up. I used the port below the oil filter. There seems to take a couple of seconds to shoot up to oil pressure. When the engine roars to life it hits 2000 rpm then settles down. I think that has something to do with my idle PIDs for my DSL1... It goes to 80 psi when cold, but I imagine that racing up to that sort of rpm on startup would wear the mains and rod bearings over time...
Is that port area really that far away from the pump or would this be something to worry about?
Here's an off topic question... What would you call the exhaust flange type and clamp and size for the back of the stock mercedes turbo?? I kinda buggered it a little when I was making the compound exhaust up pipe that cant be helping my situation either..
Ill have to get working on a build thread for this thing.. There were disasters from trying to modify and weld an om648 oil pan to the point of where I didn't trust it and ended up making my own one out of steel. To re flashing my stock GM PCM for running my gauges, (NO CEL's) running the fans, and alternator, and soon.... Air conditioning... That is another issue I am working on, the compressor is going to be remote mounted and hydraulically driven...
Eric
I took it upon myself to use that spot in the cylinder head casting that looks like it is a spot for a sensor to be drilled and tapped near the upper rad hose.. So that is what I did. I drilled and tapped it for the stock GM coolant temp sensor. As far as the heater hoses go... I ran them as the LQ9 and other truck LS series engines are ran for their heater lines.
Now, for the coolant temp sensor for the Davies Craig EWP setup, I just drilled and tapped a hole in the thermostat housing. I do notice there are big differences in temperatures between the two areas from the cylinder head to what would be coming in from the radiator at the thermostat housing..
Ill have to do some more logging with the DSL1 for coolant temperature verification, but from what I noticed when glancing at it on my laptop it is bang on with the gm sensor for my cluster.
Another issue I noticed, is with my oil pressure on start up. I used the port below the oil filter. There seems to take a couple of seconds to shoot up to oil pressure. When the engine roars to life it hits 2000 rpm then settles down. I think that has something to do with my idle PIDs for my DSL1... It goes to 80 psi when cold, but I imagine that racing up to that sort of rpm on startup would wear the mains and rod bearings over time...
Is that port area really that far away from the pump or would this be something to worry about?
Here's an off topic question... What would you call the exhaust flange type and clamp and size for the back of the stock mercedes turbo?? I kinda buggered it a little when I was making the compound exhaust up pipe that cant be helping my situation either..
Ill have to get working on a build thread for this thing.. There were disasters from trying to modify and weld an om648 oil pan to the point of where I didn't trust it and ended up making my own one out of steel. To re flashing my stock GM PCM for running my gauges, (NO CEL's) running the fans, and alternator, and soon.... Air conditioning... That is another issue I am working on, the compressor is going to be remote mounted and hydraulically driven...
Eric
Try made all 12mm inside hose-banjos diameter, from thermostat to inside block, inside block at rear drain plug there is a 10mm diameter hole, I drilled to 12mm (not fitted engine, it is a project). From 10 to 12mm diameter can be small difference, but it is a 44% more area, a lot in flow.
As X Double says temp sensor it is at rear, between 5-6 cil, this area has poor coolant flow, 6 cil Nissan Patrol owners also made that mod, also in gas Fiat DOHC Lampredi engines as stock mod, as Fiat Argenta Volumex, Fiat Ritmo Abarths, comparing to other DOHC ´Predi engines.
X Double Dot here explained, more videos at Tube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sk26cPeN4I&t=3s
Try made all 12mm inside hose-banjos diameter, from thermostat to inside block, inside block at rear drain plug there is a 10mm diameter hole, I drilled to 12mm (not fitted engine, it is a project). From 10 to 12mm diameter can be small difference, but it is a 44% more area, a lot in flow.
As X Double says temp sensor it is at rear, between 5-6 cil, this area has poor coolant flow, 6 cil Nissan Patrol owners also made that mod, also in gas Fiat DOHC Lampredi engines as stock mod, as Fiat Argenta Volumex, Fiat Ritmo Abarths, comparing to other DOHC ´Predi engines.
The only part I don't really like is plumbing it from a hot spot straight to the water pump/thermostat housing. This does help even out the coolant temps, but it also bypasses some coolant flow around the radiator which reduces the overall cooling capacity of the system. That might not be an issue for some or even most setups, but if you can plumb it from the hot spot on the engine to the hot side of the radiator then you can even out coolant temps without reducing flow thru the radiator.
This sort of mod has been shown to even out cylinder temps on all kinds of engines. It seems most engines have a cylinder or 2 that run hotter than the others. Even 4 cylinder Subaru engines, the shortest engine format I can think of, still tends to run a little hotter at rearmost cylinder. I think its safe to assume an inline 6 cylinder is going to be running quite a bit hotter at the back than the front.
The only part I don't really like is plumbing it from a hot spot straight to the water pump/thermostat housing. This does help even out the coolant temps, but it also bypasses some coolant flow around the radiator which reduces the overall cooling capacity of the system. That might not be an issue for some or even most setups, but if you can plumb it from the hot spot on the engine to the hot side of the radiator then you can even out coolant temps without reducing flow thru the radiator.
(08-22-2021, 12:39 PM)Gasoil X Double Dot here explained, more videos at Tube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sk26cPeN4I&t=3s
Try made all 12mm inside hose-banjos diameter, from thermostat to inside block, inside block at rear drain plug there is a 10mm diameter hole, I drilled to 12mm (not fitted engine, it is a project). From 10 to 12mm diameter can be small difference, but it is a 44% more area, a lot in flow.
As X Double says temp sensor it is at rear, between 5-6 cil, this area has poor coolant flow, 6 cil Nissan Patrol owners also made that mod, also in gas Fiat DOHC Lampredi engines as stock mod, as Fiat Argenta Volumex, Fiat Ritmo Abarths, comparing to other DOHC ´Predi engines.
I did that mod, but it was done with a tinier hose. I did not use banjos, but you have to consider the diameter of the holes in the the banjo would probably restrict flow compared to a curved right angle fitting. Depending on what brand you use I suppose...
(08-22-2021, 12:39 PM)Gasoil X Double Dot here explained, more videos at Tube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sk26cPeN4I&t=3s
Try made all 12mm inside hose-banjos diameter, from thermostat to inside block, inside block at rear drain plug there is a 10mm diameter hole, I drilled to 12mm (not fitted engine, it is a project). From 10 to 12mm diameter can be small difference, but it is a 44% more area, a lot in flow.
As X Double says temp sensor it is at rear, between 5-6 cil, this area has poor coolant flow, 6 cil Nissan Patrol owners also made that mod, also in gas Fiat DOHC Lampredi engines as stock mod, as Fiat Argenta Volumex, Fiat Ritmo Abarths, comparing to other DOHC ´Predi engines.
I did that mod, but it was done with a tinier hose. I did not use banjos, but you have to consider the diameter of the holes in the the banjo would probably restrict flow compared to a curved right angle fitting. Depending on what brand you use I suppose...
Baldur Gislason
I have found the water pump on my OM602 is pretty poor at moving coolant below 2000 RPM, if I lug it up hill at 1700RPM it heats up despite having doubled the size of the radiator, but downshift and maintain the same speed and the coolant temperature instantly drops back to normal.
Baldur Gislason
1982 240D LHD
1982 300TD LHD
1983 300SD LHD
1986 300SDL LHD
1992 300TD RHD
1998 C250 TD RHD
1982 240d RHD
1998 Sprinter 'Prambulance' RHD
I know this is an old thread, but what about water injection to lower temps? The OP sounds handy enough to set something up.
1982 240D LHD
1982 300TD LHD
1983 300SD LHD
1986 300SDL LHD
1992 300TD RHD
1998 C250 TD RHD
1982 240d RHD
1998 Sprinter 'Prambulance' RHD
The drawback is that it's another system to add and then maintain/troubleshoot. Plus to run it for long periods of time you need a large reservoir that adds weight and uses up space.
For a car driven on the road that only uses the water injection in short bursts it might be a good idea. For an offroad/camping vehicle, an additional system+large reservoir is probably not ideal.
Water injection would lower EGTs, which might lower overall engine temp. Plus it helps keep the intake/internals clean.
The drawback is that it's another system to add and then maintain/troubleshoot. Plus to run it for long periods of time you need a large reservoir that adds weight and uses up space.
For a car driven on the road that only uses the water injection in short bursts it might be a good idea. For an offroad/camping vehicle, an additional system+large reservoir is probably not ideal.
(02-06-2022, 05:22 PM)vica153 Water injection would lower EGTs, which might lower overall engine temp. Plus it helps keep the intake/internals clean.
The drawback is that it's another system to add and then maintain/troubleshoot. Plus to run it for long periods of time you need a large reservoir that adds weight and uses up space.
For a car driven on the road that only uses the water injection in short bursts it might be a good idea. For an offroad/camping vehicle, an additional system+large reservoir is probably not ideal.
Makes sense! I'd like to install one in my project but the complexity puts me off a bit.
I like to use (dun dun dun) straight clean vegetable oil as fuel sometimes, and the WI would help clean out any residuals.
1982 240D LHD
1982 300TD LHD
1983 300SD LHD
1986 300SDL LHD
1992 300TD RHD
1998 C250 TD RHD
1982 240d RHD
1998 Sprinter 'Prambulance' RHD
(02-06-2022, 05:22 PM)vica153 Water injection would lower EGTs, which might lower overall engine temp. Plus it helps keep the intake/internals clean.
The drawback is that it's another system to add and then maintain/troubleshoot. Plus to run it for long periods of time you need a large reservoir that adds weight and uses up space.
For a car driven on the road that only uses the water injection in short bursts it might be a good idea. For an offroad/camping vehicle, an additional system+large reservoir is probably not ideal.
Makes sense! I'd like to install one in my project but the complexity puts me off a bit.
I like to use (dun dun dun) straight clean vegetable oil as fuel sometimes, and the WI would help clean out any residuals.
1982 240D LHD
1982 300TD LHD
1983 300SD LHD
1986 300SDL LHD
1992 300TD RHD
1998 C250 TD RHD
1982 240d RHD
1998 Sprinter 'Prambulance' RHD
While I really really enjoy the rig as it is now I don't know if I would have gone quite as aggressive with the performance of the build. It has the turbobandit exhaust manifold, borg S257 (0.63AR), and a dieselmeken 8mm pump with 220cc injectors. I have the pump turned down basically as far is it will go, it was kinda nutty turned up and I wonder if a more "stock" configuration would have done better with the temps.
I just ran across this post. I have a 1974 Jeep Cherokee that I put a 606 into. It's backed by a NV4500 trans, and 4.56 gearing with 33"s. Last year I took it on a 7000 mile road trip and had to do quite a few mountain passes. I ran into the same exact issues. Overheating on any serious climbs and I started using https://www.flattestroute.com/ in our navigation to help out. Colorado was the worst as we were doing that in a heat wave and there are some seriously steep highways on those roads. Plus the elevation means the air isn't doing as much work removing heat. We had a myriad of issues on the trip including a radiator fan that kept ejecting the blade, oil cooler fan motor gave out, fuel lines rubbed through, roof rack came off..... We figured everything out on the road but it wasn't exactly the road trip my GF was expecting. I have done the cooling mod, the upgrade waterpump, smaller water pump pulley, tried cutting a significant chunk out of the wheel well to help some ventilation on the exhaust side, -20AN radiator hoses, and I installed an AEM water meth injection kit. There is no magic bullet when a little 3.0L diesel is pushing around a 6000lbs rig, all you can do is watch the needle and back off when it needs it. If someone figures out how to plumb in a major water supply into the rear half of the motor I will jump on it, and I am talking about MAJOR cool water supply not the little water mod we all do.
While I really really enjoy the rig as it is now I don't know if I would have gone quite as aggressive with the performance of the build. It has the turbobandit exhaust manifold, borg S257 (0.63AR), and a dieselmeken 8mm pump with 220cc injectors. I have the pump turned down basically as far is it will go, it was kinda nutty turned up and I wonder if a more "stock" configuration would have done better with the temps.
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