first valve adjusment.
first valve adjusment.
i have a 1980 300sd turbodiesel. i adjusted all the valves to the best that i could except for the number 9 vavle which is very difficult to get a wrench around to losen and adjust. i did the best with that one and left it as is. all the other valves i did perfectly with the feeler gauge.
my first test drive was great... the car had regained which felt like alof more power and acceleration was much snappier then before.
i also got a chance to repaint the vavle cover with metallic engine enamil which added the finishing touch.
one question though.... If your off my a couple mm with the feeler gauges with the valve adjustment can the engine be damaged?
W116Lorinser
12-27-2009, 05:50 PM #1i just completed my first valve adjustment today and it took me a couple hours to do.
i have a 1980 300sd turbodiesel. i adjusted all the valves to the best that i could except for the number 9 vavle which is very difficult to get a wrench around to losen and adjust. i did the best with that one and left it as is. all the other valves i did perfectly with the feeler gauge.
my first test drive was great... the car had regained which felt like alof more power and acceleration was much snappier then before.
i also got a chance to repaint the vavle cover with metallic engine enamil which added the finishing touch.
one question though.... If your off my a couple mm with the feeler gauges with the valve adjustment can the engine be damaged?
If they are loose it will make more noise and less power!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-27-2009, 09:42 PM #2If the valves are too tight it could hold them open and burn them and loose compression! a valve job would be needed
If they are loose it will make more noise and less power!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(12-27-2009, 09:42 PM)willbhere4u If the valves are too tight it could hold them open and burn them and loose compression! a valve job would be needed
If they are loose it will make more noise and less power!
Will the valves tighten up on there own?
The car def has more power now but also a slight clicking sound? Is that normal?
W116Lorinser
12-28-2009, 12:50 AM #3(12-27-2009, 09:42 PM)willbhere4u If the valves are too tight it could hold them open and burn them and loose compression! a valve job would be needed
If they are loose it will make more noise and less power!
Will the valves tighten up on there own?
The car def has more power now but also a slight clicking sound? Is that normal?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-28-2009, 08:57 PM #4a little noise is normal especially on a diesel! I'm not sure on the Mercedes OM617 if they naturally tight up or loosen depends on the car/valve setup
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
[quote='willbhere4u' pid='9175' dateline='1262051839']
a little noise is normal especially on a diesel! I'm not sure on the Mercedes OM617 if they naturally tight up
W116Lorinser
12-29-2009, 11:08 AM #5The thing is that i did a valve ajustment on all the valves except for the 9th valve which is exhaust valve... This valve was most difficult for me cause i have big hands and the space is really awkward so i left that valve as it was which was tight already. Is that fine to leave it since i did all the other valves or do i have to go back and do it.
[quote='willbhere4u' pid='9175' dateline='1262051839']
a little noise is normal especially on a diesel! I'm not sure on the Mercedes OM617 if they naturally tight up
Also I have found removing the injector lines makes the job a lot easier! 17mm open end wrench
I have also been known to remove the injectors deep 27mm socket but you need to replace the crush washer/heat shield under the injector
Being a Mercedes there is no need to bleed the diesel lines they self bleed after a lot of cranking but pumping the priming pump on the side of the injection pump helps!
some pump's just pump! and others unscrew pump and tighten again!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-29-2009, 09:53 PM #6Mercedes makes special wrenches to make the job a lot easier they are bent to clear ea other http://www.mercedessource.com/files/imag...WRENCH.jpg
Also I have found removing the injector lines makes the job a lot easier! 17mm open end wrench
I have also been known to remove the injectors deep 27mm socket but you need to replace the crush washer/heat shield under the injector
Being a Mercedes there is no need to bleed the diesel lines they self bleed after a lot of cranking but pumping the priming pump on the side of the injection pump helps!
some pump's just pump! and others unscrew pump and tighten again!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
1979 450SEL 6.9 - stock
1960 220SE
111 tube chassis car/undergoing full restoration. Body work in progress. Merging with a 1996 S500 (119 engine, 722.6 trans, and both subframes)
2005 S55 AMG - stock
1999 SLK230 Kompressor - stock
2006 SLK55 AMG - stock
They sell these wrenches on ebay also, thats where I got mine for a home set. Also rig up or buy a start button to crank the engine from the engine bay, this makes the job insanely quick.
1979 450SEL 6.9 - stock
1960 220SE
111 tube chassis car/undergoing full restoration. Body work in progress. Merging with a 1996 S500 (119 engine, 722.6 trans, and both subframes)
2005 S55 AMG - stock
1999 SLK230 Kompressor - stock
2006 SLK55 AMG - stock
is that normal or anything to be worried about??
or is because i didnt adjust the #9 valve and i do i have to go back and do it?
W116Lorinser
12-30-2009, 12:01 PM #8it sounds like a big sewing machine now since i just finished the adjustment.
is that normal or anything to be worried about??
or is because i didnt adjust the #9 valve and i do i have to go back and do it?
Be sure to hold the shut off lever back when cranking.
the 60X engines might self bleed, but then they also don`t need the valves adjusted.
the 61x engines don`t just self bleed, I wouldn`t recommend just cranking on the starter till they do.
Charlie
Using a remote start button under the hood to crank over the engine can get exciting if it decides to start.
Be sure to hold the shut off lever back when cranking.
the 60X engines might self bleed, but then they also don`t need the valves adjusted.
the 61x engines don`t just self bleed, I wouldn`t recommend just cranking on the starter till they do.
Charlie
quote='charmalu' pid='9204' dateline='1262193485']
Using a remote start button under the hood to crank over the engine can get exciting if it decides to start.
Be sure to hold the shut off lever back when cranking.
the 60X engines might self bleed, but then they also don`t need the valves adjusted.
the 61x engines don`t just self bleed, I wouldn`t recommend just cranking on the starter till they do.
Charlie
[/quote]
W116Lorinser
12-30-2009, 01:10 PM #10Funny how i opened tgread for help and it gets hijacked... Who gives a crap about button start.... If u cant answer question keep it moving or open a different thread
quote='charmalu' pid='9204' dateline='1262193485']
Using a remote start button under the hood to crank over the engine can get exciting if it decides to start.
Be sure to hold the shut off lever back when cranking.
the 60X engines might self bleed, but then they also don`t need the valves adjusted.
the 61x engines don`t just self bleed, I wouldn`t recommend just cranking on the starter till they do.
Charlie
[/quote]
Maybe try a vice grip on the soft fuel line? One thing about the gassers - usually easy to pull the coil wire to avoid such a situation.
From what I've heard the valves tighten, not loosen, over time. Depending on how close to spec it's at it might not be anything to worry about. If it's overly tight you'll know from it not running right, and (theoretically) it could lead to excessive cam lobe wear. That's actually more like to happen with only one valve out than all of them tight, since the motor probably won't run well enough to be driven long enough to really wear the cam. If you knew what the measurement was someone could chime in as to whether it could be a problem, without a measurement it's just a guess. I could be slightly loose for all I know, and would eventually come 'into spec' over time (as an overly tight valve on a system that loosens over time would) but it'll still be slightly out of adjustment relative to the other valves. Theoretically.
CID Vicious
01-03-2010, 03:48 AM #11I think he was just throwing that out there, in case someone decided to use a starter button. If you decided to use a bypass button to click the starter over from the engine bay, and your valve cover is off and it starts up, at best it's going to be an oily mess. If something's able to get down into the engine it could be catastrophic.
Maybe try a vice grip on the soft fuel line? One thing about the gassers - usually easy to pull the coil wire to avoid such a situation.
From what I've heard the valves tighten, not loosen, over time. Depending on how close to spec it's at it might not be anything to worry about. If it's overly tight you'll know from it not running right, and (theoretically) it could lead to excessive cam lobe wear. That's actually more like to happen with only one valve out than all of them tight, since the motor probably won't run well enough to be driven long enough to really wear the cam. If you knew what the measurement was someone could chime in as to whether it could be a problem, without a measurement it's just a guess. I could be slightly loose for all I know, and would eventually come 'into spec' over time (as an overly tight valve on a system that loosens over time would) but it'll still be slightly out of adjustment relative to the other valves. Theoretically.
the car was actually faster when i had the #9 and #10 valve tight. now my top end performance with the #10 valve is relativly slow.
im gonna bring it in to my shop to get it adjusted to spec tommorrow to be on the safe side.
W116Lorinser
01-03-2010, 09:56 PM #12i finally got the #9 exhaust valve adjusted to spec... but the #10 intake valve is supertight no feeler gauge fitting in there at all not even the .05mm gauge because i cant get the adjusting not to lossen up so i left it as is.
the car was actually faster when i had the #9 and #10 valve tight. now my top end performance with the #10 valve is relativly slow.
im gonna bring it in to my shop to get it adjusted to spec tommorrow to be on the safe side.
(12-30-2009, 01:10 PM)W116Lorinser Funny how i opened tgread for help and it gets hijacked... Who gives a crap about button start.... If u cant answer question keep it moving or open a different thread[/quote]
I am sorry you feel that way, sorry for the advice.
quote='charmalu' pid='9204' dateline='1262193485']
Using a remote start button under the hood to crank over the engine can get exciting if it decides to start.
Be sure to hold the shut off lever back when cranking.
the 60X engines might self bleed, but then they also don`t need the valves adjusted.
the 61x engines don`t just self bleed, I wouldn`t recommend just cranking on the starter till they do.
Charlie
1979 450SEL 6.9 - stock
1960 220SE
111 tube chassis car/undergoing full restoration. Body work in progress. Merging with a 1996 S500 (119 engine, 722.6 trans, and both subframes)
2005 S55 AMG - stock
1999 SLK230 Kompressor - stock
2006 SLK55 AMG - stock
(12-30-2009, 01:10 PM)W116Lorinser Funny how i opened tgread for help and it gets hijacked... Who gives a crap about button start.... If u cant answer question keep it moving or open a different thread[/quote]
I am sorry you feel that way, sorry for the advice.
quote='charmalu' pid='9204' dateline='1262193485']
Using a remote start button under the hood to crank over the engine can get exciting if it decides to start.
Be sure to hold the shut off lever back when cranking.
the 60X engines might self bleed, but then they also don`t need the valves adjusted.
the 61x engines don`t just self bleed, I wouldn`t recommend just cranking on the starter till they do.
Charlie
1979 450SEL 6.9 - stock
1960 220SE
111 tube chassis car/undergoing full restoration. Body work in progress. Merging with a 1996 S500 (119 engine, 722.6 trans, and both subframes)
2005 S55 AMG - stock
1999 SLK230 Kompressor - stock
2006 SLK55 AMG - stock
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