W124 250TD OM602 Superturbodiesel build
W124 250TD OM602 Superturbodiesel build
-Injection pump with 75L3 dieselmeken elements and outside adjustable alda
-W210 E270 CDI 6 speed manual transmission
-Sprinter dual mass flywheel, pressure plate and clutch
-Custom intake manifold made out of a N/A OM602 manifold
-76mm intercooler piping and 600x300x100 intercooler
-Holset HX40W with 16cm^3 exhaust housing
-Big oil cooler
-Custom tubular stainless exhaust manifold,
and so on. So for the moment the only thing I did was to bolt my AMG Aero monoblock I wheels on it, and gave it a good clean. Because of the emmission tests I cannot tune it until it gets registered. The car also needs the following:
-Front suspension/steering needs some refreshement (feels like some loose front wheels in the steering wheel)
-Water temp gauge sometimes jumps off the scale, probably bad contact somewhere
-Outside temperature gauge constantly shows more than 40 degrees celsius although there's big snow outside
-Bumpers need replacing, and a few more small details.
So stay tuned, the goal is to finish it in a few weeks after it past the inspections during it's registration. Here is a cold start video made in -5 degrees celsius, with a weak battery and the car not being started for a few days.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0ye6tI4u5M
mmetzdavid
12-18-2018, 07:28 AM #1Hello everyone! After a few years of having too little time off, and realizing that I will never have the time to finish my 560SEL superturbodiesel dute to it's corroded body, I have decided to implant its go fast bits into another rustfree merc. So I searched for one with the same engine (OM602.96X) and found this (oh how badly I wanted a rustfree old merc!) '94 250TD turbodiesel estate with just over 220K km on it's dash. In february it will get registered, and then I can start bolting on the followings from my old projectcar:
-Injection pump with 75L3 dieselmeken elements and outside adjustable alda
-W210 E270 CDI 6 speed manual transmission
-Sprinter dual mass flywheel, pressure plate and clutch
-Custom intake manifold made out of a N/A OM602 manifold
-76mm intercooler piping and 600x300x100 intercooler
-Holset HX40W with 16cm^3 exhaust housing
-Big oil cooler
-Custom tubular stainless exhaust manifold,
and so on. So for the moment the only thing I did was to bolt my AMG Aero monoblock I wheels on it, and gave it a good clean. Because of the emmission tests I cannot tune it until it gets registered. The car also needs the following:
-Front suspension/steering needs some refreshement (feels like some loose front wheels in the steering wheel)
-Water temp gauge sometimes jumps off the scale, probably bad contact somewhere
-Outside temperature gauge constantly shows more than 40 degrees celsius although there's big snow outside
-Bumpers need replacing, and a few more small details.
So stay tuned, the goal is to finish it in a few weeks after it past the inspections during it's registration. Here is a cold start video made in -5 degrees celsius, with a weak battery and the car not being started for a few days.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0ye6tI4u5M
mmetzdavid
12-19-2018, 11:47 AM #3Thank you! For the moment it has the stock cable driven speedo as it still has the original box, but I will put in the electronic unit from the w126 for the 6 speed box.
Yesterday the car passed the registration inspection, so as I got home I installed the superpump that was waiting for it! It has outside adjustable alda set to 50/150cc at 1,5bar and Dieselmeken 75L3 elements. The car is a completly different animal! Still have to upgrade the turbo, manifolds, intercooler, exhaust, clutch and gearbox, among other small things, but I am very happy with the performance gain!
Here is a little video of it running on the new pump. Timing set to around 19 degrees ATDC. Seems to work quite well, but it is not as responsive as I wold like. Might be the dual mass flywheel too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Grx5XuS2H1M
mmetzdavid
02-15-2019, 05:42 AM #4So, a little update on the project:
Yesterday the car passed the registration inspection, so as I got home I installed the superpump that was waiting for it! It has outside adjustable alda set to 50/150cc at 1,5bar and Dieselmeken 75L3 elements. The car is a completly different animal! Still have to upgrade the turbo, manifolds, intercooler, exhaust, clutch and gearbox, among other small things, but I am very happy with the performance gain!
Here is a little video of it running on the new pump. Timing set to around 19 degrees ATDC. Seems to work quite well, but it is not as responsive as I wold like. Might be the dual mass flywheel too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Grx5XuS2H1M
https://youtu.be/QuvKGbkIdEU
mmetzdavid
02-22-2019, 07:39 PM #5Here it is how it runs now with the superpump. Until 3000 rpm it is smoke free, but after the turbo gets to its limitation, just rolling coal
https://youtu.be/QuvKGbkIdEU
And yesterday had a few hours of free time to spend on the wagon, so I installed the summer tires (AMG monoblock I) and lowered the front suspension by simply chopping 2 coils out of it. Now it is rubbing a bit in the fender with 225 45 zr17 tyres, but I think I will make some fender spacers just like AMG did at the time, it really needs just a few milimeters to clear the fender. Next on the list are:
-finishing the exhaust manifold, so that I can buid the intercooler piping and bolt on the HX40W
-lowering the rear aswell (will first try to play with the SLS valve)
-76mm stainless straight pipe
-have fun.
mmetzdavid
02-28-2019, 02:15 AM #6Another little update: got the new numberplates (it is the closest I could get to w124 superturbodiesel), and has nothing to do with sexually trasmitted deseases.
And yesterday had a few hours of free time to spend on the wagon, so I installed the summer tires (AMG monoblock I) and lowered the front suspension by simply chopping 2 coils out of it. Now it is rubbing a bit in the fender with 225 45 zr17 tyres, but I think I will make some fender spacers just like AMG did at the time, it really needs just a few milimeters to clear the fender. Next on the list are:
-finishing the exhaust manifold, so that I can buid the intercooler piping and bolt on the HX40W
-lowering the rear aswell (will first try to play with the SLS valve)
-76mm stainless straight pipe
-have fun.
mmetzdavid
02-28-2019, 09:55 AM #7And today the rear followed (same method, no spring compressor), but only chopped 1,1/4 coils on the rear. And gave it a good clean.
(03-01-2019, 07:22 AM)Antonio Did you have you pump made by Dobromir? He made my Dieselmeken pumps and im happy. What do you think hx40 with 16cm housing will spool under 3800 rpm?
Nope, being on a student budget, I built it myself. I only asked the local bosch diesel service to put my pump on a testing bench, and have the elements calibrated relative to each other and to make a base setting (50cc no boost, 150cc@1,5 bar of boost) on my outside adjustable alda. So not considering the core, many hours and all the tools that I had to make, etc. The whole pump is somewhere around 400€. And seems to work right!
If my math is correct I will have full boost at 4250rpm, in theory with the HX40W. But considering all the good things I have heard about the quick spool valves, I am considering building one. The plasma cutting company had accidentally done two T3 flanges when I sent the drawings to cut the manifold flange and the turbo flange, so I have two 10mm thick T3 flanges, I can weld them together, make a QSV and maybe get full boost in the mid 3000 range. Will see.
mmetzdavid
03-01-2019, 01:01 PM #9(03-01-2019, 07:22 AM)Antonio Did you have you pump made by Dobromir? He made my Dieselmeken pumps and im happy. What do you think hx40 with 16cm housing will spool under 3800 rpm?
Nope, being on a student budget, I built it myself. I only asked the local bosch diesel service to put my pump on a testing bench, and have the elements calibrated relative to each other and to make a base setting (50cc no boost, 150cc@1,5 bar of boost) on my outside adjustable alda. So not considering the core, many hours and all the tools that I had to make, etc. The whole pump is somewhere around 400€. And seems to work right!
If my math is correct I will have full boost at 4250rpm, in theory with the HX40W. But considering all the good things I have heard about the quick spool valves, I am considering building one. The plasma cutting company had accidentally done two T3 flanges when I sent the drawings to cut the manifold flange and the turbo flange, so I have two 10mm thick T3 flanges, I can weld them together, make a QSV and maybe get full boost in the mid 3000 range. Will see.
mmetzdavid
03-05-2019, 03:32 AM #10So had some luck the other day, and found a complete 3,69:1 ASD differential for the STD wagon. Axles will need a rebuild, but the diff is in great shape except the incredible amount of dirt built up on it. And the guy also had the 4 pot original w124 brakes, that still fit under the 8 hole alloys that I use for winter tires. It of course needs new discs and pads, but the calipers are in good shape. So bought them too with splindes, discs, dust shields, everything. Oh and he also had a window mechanism for the driver's side, so I can from now on completly close my window (2 teeth were broken) best part is that the whole, including shipping was under 200 EUR,-. A fit even for my ultra-low budget build.
cheers
Nice, if you have knowledge why not and build it yourself and save some money. 3.69 differential on 6 speed gearbox will give you ''granny first'' you should get diff that has 2.** ratio, i have the same problem... what gearbox do you plan to use? Best option is 716.654 from w203 because you can fit it with e36 shifter links and have short shiter from e36 with not much of fabricating. Also that one i strong so it can take that much power.
cheers
(03-05-2019, 09:53 AM)Antonio Nice, if you have knowledge why not and build it yourself and save some money. 3.69 differential on 6 speed gearbox will give you ''granny first'' you should get diff that has 2.** ratio, i have the same problem... what gearbox do you plan to use? Best option is 716.654 from w203 because you can fit it with e36 shifter links and have short shiter from e36 with not much of fabricating. Also that one i strong so it can take that much power.
cheers
Thanks. Can you tell me more about the e36 selector? I have a 716.651 or 654 as far as I remember, will have to check it. And the selector's cable housing is broken, it is pretty badly engineered. It is from a w210 E270 CDI. The clutch that I will use is out of a W203 C220 CDI. Anyway, I have from my 560 SEL a 2.56 rear end if I remember right, if I think the gearing in the transmission does not fit the rear end, might try to build something out of the two. But I prefer having a short first, that too long gears. Over here highways are made out more of promisses than asphalt, so the car will more likely need good, short gearing for overtakes than a long rear end for cruising on the highway or greater top speed.
And as a little update for the project, this afternoon I removed the stock exhaust wich turns out to bee so restrictive! And I also hade a catalyst on it, that was very stuffed. The engine revs twice as fast and has way better torque without exhaust. Best mod ever, and costed nothing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dy4FOlEeBzU
mmetzdavid
03-05-2019, 10:52 AM #12(03-05-2019, 09:53 AM)Antonio Nice, if you have knowledge why not and build it yourself and save some money. 3.69 differential on 6 speed gearbox will give you ''granny first'' you should get diff that has 2.** ratio, i have the same problem... what gearbox do you plan to use? Best option is 716.654 from w203 because you can fit it with e36 shifter links and have short shiter from e36 with not much of fabricating. Also that one i strong so it can take that much power.
cheers
Thanks. Can you tell me more about the e36 selector? I have a 716.651 or 654 as far as I remember, will have to check it. And the selector's cable housing is broken, it is pretty badly engineered. It is from a w210 E270 CDI. The clutch that I will use is out of a W203 C220 CDI. Anyway, I have from my 560 SEL a 2.56 rear end if I remember right, if I think the gearing in the transmission does not fit the rear end, might try to build something out of the two. But I prefer having a short first, that too long gears. Over here highways are made out more of promisses than asphalt, so the car will more likely need good, short gearing for overtakes than a long rear end for cruising on the highway or greater top speed.
And as a little update for the project, this afternoon I removed the stock exhaust wich turns out to bee so restrictive! And I also hade a catalyst on it, that was very stuffed. The engine revs twice as fast and has way better torque without exhaust. Best mod ever, and costed nothing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dy4FOlEeBzU
mmetzdavid
03-09-2019, 07:22 AM #14Fitted the intercooler the other day. Would not think that it will fit with this little cutting. I only had to cut the radiator's lower supports, the towpoint from the chassis, and had to remove the aux electric fan and the aircon system (I will not miss it). And the intercooler fits tight but nicely, the radiator sits in it's original place.
Installed a 6 bar industrial pressure gauge for monitoring the boost pressure (stock turbo cannot pass 2 bar of realtive pressure, but the holset will need it)
And also installed a Recaro heated and vented seat as I was falling out of the original seat in the corners.
mmetzdavid
03-13-2019, 10:27 AM #15Another small update,
Installed a 6 bar industrial pressure gauge for monitoring the boost pressure (stock turbo cannot pass 2 bar of realtive pressure, but the holset will need it)
And also installed a Recaro heated and vented seat as I was falling out of the original seat in the corners.
Had enaugh of the welder guy that I know and left at his place the flanges that I made for the OM602 and the turbo to make me a manifold. So I picked them up this weekend and welded it up myself. Not the best, but will work I guess. Also the runners are nearly the same length too, wich is always good.
mmetzdavid
03-20-2019, 06:41 AM #16Another small update,
Had enaugh of the welder guy that I know and left at his place the flanges that I made for the OM602 and the turbo to make me a manifold. So I picked them up this weekend and welded it up myself. Not the best, but will work I guess. Also the runners are nearly the same length too, wich is always good.
mmetzdavid
03-21-2019, 10:25 AM #17Testfitted everything in the engine bay today and installed an oil catch-can. Still have to make the piping between the intercooler and the inlet manifold, and relocate a bit the oil cooler, fabricate the the oil return and the downpipe.
https://youtu.be/5SxFRpfyllM
I cannot find out why the turbo won't boost over 1-1,2 bar.
Checked for boostleaks, nothing important.
Checked for exhaust leaks and changed the exhaust gaskets, everything remained the same.
Turned up a bit the pump, but still won't pass this much boost.
Disconnected the wastegate completely, same issue.
Anyone have any ideas before I try to source a smaller turbine housing? Although it starts making boost at 3500 rpm, so it should not be too big.
mmetzdavid
03-29-2019, 02:44 AM #18Here's a little vid of how she runs.
https://youtu.be/5SxFRpfyllM
I cannot find out why the turbo won't boost over 1-1,2 bar.
Checked for boostleaks, nothing important.
Checked for exhaust leaks and changed the exhaust gaskets, everything remained the same.
Turned up a bit the pump, but still won't pass this much boost.
Disconnected the wastegate completely, same issue.
Anyone have any ideas before I try to source a smaller turbine housing? Although it starts making boost at 3500 rpm, so it should not be too big.
(03-29-2019, 06:05 PM)Petar Looks like your clutch is slipping, note the rpm stays at 4800 while the car keeps accelerating.
If your governor rev is not raised then it's already defueling by 4800 and no fuel = no boost
So you think the pump's governor spring adjustment is the problem why it won't boost above max 1.2 bar? Is it an easy adjust or should I remove the whole pump? I guess after adjusting the governor to higher RPM I need to drop the idle too. But is that all of it?
mmetzdavid
04-02-2019, 01:31 PM #21(03-29-2019, 06:05 PM)Petar Looks like your clutch is slipping, note the rpm stays at 4800 while the car keeps accelerating.
If your governor rev is not raised then it's already defueling by 4800 and no fuel = no boost
So you think the pump's governor spring adjustment is the problem why it won't boost above max 1.2 bar? Is it an easy adjust or should I remove the whole pump? I guess after adjusting the governor to higher RPM I need to drop the idle too. But is that all of it?
(03-29-2019, 12:32 PM)oleg213 did you measure EGP?
maybe wastegate spring don't enough strong
No, I did not measure exhaust gas temperature, if that's what you mean. But I plan investing in one gauge.
mmetzdavid
04-02-2019, 01:32 PM #22(03-29-2019, 12:32 PM)oleg213 did you measure EGP?
maybe wastegate spring don't enough strong
No, I did not measure exhaust gas temperature, if that's what you mean. But I plan investing in one gauge.
No, i think the problem is that your clutch is slipping, you need to put a load on the engine to make boost. especially with a turbo that big, and slipping clutch - low load. If it weren't for the governor defuelling your engine would rev to 6-7k, and you still wouldn't go anywhere
(04-02-2019, 05:17 PM)Petar No, i think the problem is that your clutch is slipping, you need to put a load on the engine to make boost. especially with a turbo that big, and slipping clutch - low load. If it weren't for the governor defuelling your engine would rev to 6-7k, and you still wouldn't go anywhereOk, I will start upgrading the drivetrain then first. I have a C220 cdi clutch set and E270 cdi gearbox, and ASD axle. I will put them in as soon as possible. But I do not notice very much the clutch slip, if I accelerate only in higher gears. I do not feel that the revs would go up and the car is not going anywhwre. At least it is not very obvious. Anyway I think that the driveability of this turbo is quite OK despite pretty much no boost in 1st and second gear. But under load in higher gears it starts making boost in the mid 2000's, so I think the manifold came out pretty good!
mmetzdavid
04-03-2019, 02:34 PM #24(04-02-2019, 05:17 PM)Petar No, i think the problem is that your clutch is slipping, you need to put a load on the engine to make boost. especially with a turbo that big, and slipping clutch - low load. If it weren't for the governor defuelling your engine would rev to 6-7k, and you still wouldn't go anywhereOk, I will start upgrading the drivetrain then first. I have a C220 cdi clutch set and E270 cdi gearbox, and ASD axle. I will put them in as soon as possible. But I do not notice very much the clutch slip, if I accelerate only in higher gears. I do not feel that the revs would go up and the car is not going anywhwre. At least it is not very obvious. Anyway I think that the driveability of this turbo is quite OK despite pretty much no boost in 1st and second gear. But under load in higher gears it starts making boost in the mid 2000's, so I think the manifold came out pretty good!
And also found a second Recaro Ergomed E, so I have a fresh interior too.
mmetzdavid
05-02-2019, 05:19 AM #25Another little update. Have not yet found time to swap in the new drivetrain, but found a super cheap C250 turbodiesel and bought it for it's engine. So I hope I will find the time and swap in the OM605 once I made some manifolds for it.
And also found a second Recaro Ergomed E, so I have a fresh interior too.
OM605 is a better option. Twinned cams.
You need a ceramic clutch disc, like mine, fitted on solid flywheel.
W210 OM605 since 2014.
Well, for a while i was thinking that i am the only Superturbodiesel guy in the north side of Romania.
OM605 is a better option. Twinned cams.
You need a ceramic clutch disc, like mine, fitted on solid flywheel.
W210 OM605 since 2014.
I installed a new turbo, a Holset HE431V. To make it work, I installed the pressure actuator that it normally has oppositely (as it was controlled by the ECU of the truck that it came off and the turbo was normally open, and with pressure fed to the actuator gradually closed), so the actuator keeps the turbo quite closed, and when boost comes, it opens it up. But recently under load, when the turbo should start to make boost, it just stalls, it feels like engine brake, and I get smoke out of the exhaust. If I step off the accelerator, after a few seconds the turbo starts spinning again. Until now I tried:
-Changing the fuel filter and cleaning the tank filter
-Changing the initial position of the vains in the turbo
-locking the actuator in one place as I tought that the pressure inside the turbo might force it to open up before the boost would indirectly open it,
all of them with no luck. Also, I dont feel that the 7,5mm pump that I built would deliver as much fuel as those elements could, but that is another story. First I want to fix the turbo as it drives me crazy that the car is slower than stock sometimes when the turbo stalls.
Has anyone have experience with the Holset VGTs and pressure actuators for it who knows what could be wrong?
Thanks.
mmetzdavid
07-30-2019, 08:41 AM #28So I have a problem again. Maybe someone can help me fix it.
I installed a new turbo, a Holset HE431V. To make it work, I installed the pressure actuator that it normally has oppositely (as it was controlled by the ECU of the truck that it came off and the turbo was normally open, and with pressure fed to the actuator gradually closed), so the actuator keeps the turbo quite closed, and when boost comes, it opens it up. But recently under load, when the turbo should start to make boost, it just stalls, it feels like engine brake, and I get smoke out of the exhaust. If I step off the accelerator, after a few seconds the turbo starts spinning again. Until now I tried:
-Changing the fuel filter and cleaning the tank filter
-Changing the initial position of the vains in the turbo
-locking the actuator in one place as I tought that the pressure inside the turbo might force it to open up before the boost would indirectly open it,
all of them with no luck. Also, I dont feel that the 7,5mm pump that I built would deliver as much fuel as those elements could, but that is another story. First I want to fix the turbo as it drives me crazy that the car is slower than stock sometimes when the turbo stalls.
Has anyone have experience with the Holset VGTs and pressure actuators for it who knows what could be wrong?
Thanks.
1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km
1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD
Well, sure sounds like the vanes are fully shut to me? Is the actuator on the side still connected to the vanes?
1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km
1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD
(08-02-2019, 03:09 AM)NZScott Well, sure sounds like the vanes are fully shut to me? Is the actuator on the side still connected to the vanes?
The actuator and the vane lever are attached, yes. And it sounds not like if it would move the vanes in any direction, it sounds like the turbos shaft drops in rpm very fast, and when I lift off the throttle, and there are less gases going to the turbine, then the shafts rpm increases to normal again.
mmetzdavid
08-03-2019, 08:04 AM #30(08-02-2019, 03:09 AM)NZScott Well, sure sounds like the vanes are fully shut to me? Is the actuator on the side still connected to the vanes?
The actuator and the vane lever are attached, yes. And it sounds not like if it would move the vanes in any direction, it sounds like the turbos shaft drops in rpm very fast, and when I lift off the throttle, and there are less gases going to the turbine, then the shafts rpm increases to normal again.
(08-03-2019, 08:04 AM)mmetzdavid(08-02-2019, 03:09 AM)NZScott Well, sure sounds like the vanes are fully shut to me? Is the actuator on the side still connected to the vanes?
The actuator and the vane lever are attached, yes. And it sounds not like if it would move the vanes in any direction, it sounds like the turbos shaft drops in rpm very fast, and when I lift off the throttle, and there are less gases going to the turbine, then the shafts rpm increases to normal again.
I am not trying to discourage you, but you should fit a wastegated turbo, other you will get more hassle.
You said that your pump is not delivering enough juice.
We just tuned one today for 180cc, here in Baia Mare.
If you need help, send it here.
Good luck.
(08-03-2019, 08:04 AM)mmetzdavid(08-02-2019, 03:09 AM)NZScott Well, sure sounds like the vanes are fully shut to me? Is the actuator on the side still connected to the vanes?
The actuator and the vane lever are attached, yes. And it sounds not like if it would move the vanes in any direction, it sounds like the turbos shaft drops in rpm very fast, and when I lift off the throttle, and there are less gases going to the turbine, then the shafts rpm increases to normal again.
I am not trying to discourage you, but you should fit a wastegated turbo, other you will get more hassle.
You said that your pump is not delivering enough juice.
We just tuned one today for 180cc, here in Baia Mare.
If you need help, send it here.
Good luck.
In the last few weeks I installed a Bosch 044 lift pump, and a boost rising fuel pressure regulator to the return line, just to make sure that the pump is not starving at high RPM.
I bought a sprinter 313 cdi SM 240mm flywheel, and this week it is going to a professional clutch builder to get ceramic friction pads and a reinforced pressure plate.
I have removed the glowplugs from my OM605.960 engine, and I pretty much made it ready to get in the wagon. Made a 15mm thick exhaust flange for it too.
I still have to make the VGT system work better, it is opening the vanes too late, and boost is a bit too low I think. But will turn up the fuel pump more.
So hopefully this month I will drop in the OM605, the ceramic clutch kit, and the 6 speed box that I have for it. Will post some pictures when done!
Until then, here is a little video of how the old lady gets up to speed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20o3bEZBZS0
mmetzdavid
11-12-2019, 06:12 AM #32So, a little update on my daily S124.
In the last few weeks I installed a Bosch 044 lift pump, and a boost rising fuel pressure regulator to the return line, just to make sure that the pump is not starving at high RPM.
I bought a sprinter 313 cdi SM 240mm flywheel, and this week it is going to a professional clutch builder to get ceramic friction pads and a reinforced pressure plate.
I have removed the glowplugs from my OM605.960 engine, and I pretty much made it ready to get in the wagon. Made a 15mm thick exhaust flange for it too.
I still have to make the VGT system work better, it is opening the vanes too late, and boost is a bit too low I think. But will turn up the fuel pump more.
So hopefully this month I will drop in the OM605, the ceramic clutch kit, and the 6 speed box that I have for it. Will post some pictures when done!
Until then, here is a little video of how the old lady gets up to speed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20o3bEZBZS0
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