Increasing performance of a 300 SDL
Increasing performance of a 300 SDL
I will soon have a bad overboost protection sensor replaced and my turbo will once again be working, but I will want more performance. I am considering removing my injection pump and sending it off to Myna for an upgrade.
How much PSI could I expect to be able to output from the turbo before regular use of the accelerator could cause engine problems to result? I am guessing about 14-15 PSI. What potential problems could occur should I decide to remove the ALDA?
Are there any known problems with running WVO with a modified injection pump?
Is there any sort of taller final drive ratio that I could swap into my car to improve top speed? The stock ratio is a 2.88 and as far as I know, there is no bolt-on fit that is taller for this car, but if there is, could anyone here point me to one? Are there any aftermarket gears that I could swap into the transmission for this car that have taller ratios than stock?
If I instead go with larger wheels/tires to improve top speed, is there a way to get the speedometer to read accurately?
I am also considering building a bodykit for this car, not for looks, but for aerodynamic drag reduction. This will have a three-fold benefit of improving fuel economy, improving highway acceleration, and improving top speed(if the gearing is available).
The Toecutter
04-23-2010, 11:36 PM #1I have a 1986 300 SDL. I am interested in increasing its performance. The engine is the OM603.961 6 cylinder 3.0L turbodiesel making 148 horsepower.
I will soon have a bad overboost protection sensor replaced and my turbo will once again be working, but I will want more performance. I am considering removing my injection pump and sending it off to Myna for an upgrade.
How much PSI could I expect to be able to output from the turbo before regular use of the accelerator could cause engine problems to result? I am guessing about 14-15 PSI. What potential problems could occur should I decide to remove the ALDA?
Are there any known problems with running WVO with a modified injection pump?
Is there any sort of taller final drive ratio that I could swap into my car to improve top speed? The stock ratio is a 2.88 and as far as I know, there is no bolt-on fit that is taller for this car, but if there is, could anyone here point me to one? Are there any aftermarket gears that I could swap into the transmission for this car that have taller ratios than stock?
If I instead go with larger wheels/tires to improve top speed, is there a way to get the speedometer to read accurately?
I am also considering building a bodykit for this car, not for looks, but for aerodynamic drag reduction. This will have a three-fold benefit of improving fuel economy, improving highway acceleration, and improving top speed(if the gearing is available).
(04-23-2010, 11:36 PM)The Toecutter How much PSI could I expect to be able to output from the turbo before regular use of the accelerator could cause engine problems to result?Boost isn't the limit, its power. The 603 is known to take around 300hp on stock internals. It doesn't take much boost to get there, the Finns are making upwards of 500hp on just 30-35psi (with very modified internals though).
Quote:Are there any known problems with running WVO with a modified injection pump?Its harmful to any injection pump. Injecting more of it will just make the problems even worse. Even more so since no injection company would honor the warranty of a $1500 rebuild if its been run on garbage.
Quote:The stock ratio is a 2.88 and as far as I know, there is no bolt-on fit that is taller for this car, but if there is, could anyone here point me to one?I believe there is a 2.65 in a V8 model.
Quote:If I instead go with larger wheels/tires to improve top speed, is there a way to get the speedometer to read accurately?The speedo is electric. There are "intercepting" boxes that can alter the signal but I think there is a programmer available that can internally change its PPM logic.
Quote:but for aerodynamic drag reduction. This will have a three-fold benefit of improving fuel economy, improving highway acceleration, and improving top speed(if the gearing is available)....If you leave off the kit's spoiler.
ForcedInduction
04-24-2010, 06:08 AM
#2
(04-23-2010, 11:36 PM)The Toecutter How much PSI could I expect to be able to output from the turbo before regular use of the accelerator could cause engine problems to result?Boost isn't the limit, its power. The 603 is known to take around 300hp on stock internals. It doesn't take much boost to get there, the Finns are making upwards of 500hp on just 30-35psi (with very modified internals though).
Quote:Are there any known problems with running WVO with a modified injection pump?Its harmful to any injection pump. Injecting more of it will just make the problems even worse. Even more so since no injection company would honor the warranty of a $1500 rebuild if its been run on garbage.
Quote:The stock ratio is a 2.88 and as far as I know, there is no bolt-on fit that is taller for this car, but if there is, could anyone here point me to one?I believe there is a 2.65 in a V8 model.
Quote:If I instead go with larger wheels/tires to improve top speed, is there a way to get the speedometer to read accurately?The speedo is electric. There are "intercepting" boxes that can alter the signal but I think there is a programmer available that can internally change its PPM logic.
Quote:but for aerodynamic drag reduction. This will have a three-fold benefit of improving fuel economy, improving highway acceleration, and improving top speed(if the gearing is available)....If you leave off the kit's spoiler.
(04-24-2010, 11:16 AM)GREASY_BEAST This wasn't the OP's question.Actually indirectly it was. His question wasn't quite the right one to ask. The stock T3-50 can push more than 20psi reliably but there are other, more modern, turbos that can do it more efficiently and have more overhead available.
Quote:This is not good information either. It's really more of a feeling than a fact.Its a fact. No injection shop in the world will honor the warranty on a pump thats had garbage run through it just as no diesel engine manufacturer would honor the warranty if you, for example, blew the headgasket running gasoline thorough it.
ForcedInduction
04-24-2010, 01:25 PM
#3
(04-24-2010, 11:16 AM)GREASY_BEAST This wasn't the OP's question.Actually indirectly it was. His question wasn't quite the right one to ask. The stock T3-50 can push more than 20psi reliably but there are other, more modern, turbos that can do it more efficiently and have more overhead available.
Quote:This is not good information either. It's really more of a feeling than a fact.Its a fact. No injection shop in the world will honor the warranty on a pump thats had garbage run through it just as no diesel engine manufacturer would honor the warranty if you, for example, blew the headgasket running gasoline thorough it.
That is a very interesting calculator. Thank you for linking that to me.
I do have more questions. Being that the odometer uses a set of gears, would it be possible to make sure that it is correctly calibrated if I were to change the stock tire size? If so, how would I go about doing this?
Changing the wheels would be much easier than changing the rear end. Changing to a 2.65 rear end would be an awful lot of work to gain a paltry 9 mph to top speed over stock; I'm looking for more than that! In conjunction with 17 inch wheels, it could be worth the effort though.
How much torque could the transmission handle? I've heard 600 lb-ft from a mechanic, but I'm not so sure on that number. If the engine gets upgraded to 250 horse, it will probably be pushing 350 lb-ft or so, which it would not to be hard to imagine that breaking things!
Also, Forced Induction, I would not use an AMG or similar bodykit. I'm considering building my own body panels, keeping the C111-III in mind. Think front air dam, partial grill block, cameras replacing side mirrors, rear wheel skirts, a tapered extention of the rear roofline, rear boattail or diffuser, side skirts, wheel spoilers, among other things. No spoiler would be planned or desired(although a wing tapering from the roofline might look like a spoiler, unlike a spoiler, the goal would be to have uninterrupted airflow for as far as practical across the roof without generating turbulence). If I could get a 300 SDL's drag coefficient down to 0.25, the stock engine alone at a meagre 148 horsepower would be able to get it to about 140 mph, if it had the gearing to reach that speed at the rpm it makes its peak power at... imagine what it would do with a modest 250 horsepower under the hood and re-sized tires and differential from the V8 gasser to accomodate it... *drool* On top of that, the benefit to highway fuel economy would be tremendous, perhaps pushing it past 40 mpg at 70 mph.
The Toecutter
04-25-2010, 03:34 AM #4Thanks for the advice.
That is a very interesting calculator. Thank you for linking that to me.
I do have more questions. Being that the odometer uses a set of gears, would it be possible to make sure that it is correctly calibrated if I were to change the stock tire size? If so, how would I go about doing this?
Changing the wheels would be much easier than changing the rear end. Changing to a 2.65 rear end would be an awful lot of work to gain a paltry 9 mph to top speed over stock; I'm looking for more than that! In conjunction with 17 inch wheels, it could be worth the effort though.
How much torque could the transmission handle? I've heard 600 lb-ft from a mechanic, but I'm not so sure on that number. If the engine gets upgraded to 250 horse, it will probably be pushing 350 lb-ft or so, which it would not to be hard to imagine that breaking things!
Also, Forced Induction, I would not use an AMG or similar bodykit. I'm considering building my own body panels, keeping the C111-III in mind. Think front air dam, partial grill block, cameras replacing side mirrors, rear wheel skirts, a tapered extention of the rear roofline, rear boattail or diffuser, side skirts, wheel spoilers, among other things. No spoiler would be planned or desired(although a wing tapering from the roofline might look like a spoiler, unlike a spoiler, the goal would be to have uninterrupted airflow for as far as practical across the roof without generating turbulence). If I could get a 300 SDL's drag coefficient down to 0.25, the stock engine alone at a meagre 148 horsepower would be able to get it to about 140 mph, if it had the gearing to reach that speed at the rpm it makes its peak power at... imagine what it would do with a modest 250 horsepower under the hood and re-sized tires and differential from the V8 gasser to accomodate it... *drool* On top of that, the benefit to highway fuel economy would be tremendous, perhaps pushing it past 40 mpg at 70 mph.
(04-25-2010, 03:34 AM)The Toecutter That is a very interesting calculator. Thank you for linking that to me.
This is setup for your engine. The turbo you have is a T3-50.
http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/t...utyCycle=0
ForcedInduction
04-25-2010, 06:59 AM
#5
(04-25-2010, 03:34 AM)The Toecutter That is a very interesting calculator. Thank you for linking that to me.
This is setup for your engine. The turbo you have is a T3-50.
http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/t...utyCycle=0
ForcedInduction
04-25-2010, 07:37 PM
#6
The 300SDL should have an electric driven speedo. To change the speedometer and odometer rate you just need to change the input signal with an interception box or programming.
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