Jeep Liberty Turbo to T3 Adaptor
Jeep Liberty Turbo to T3 Adaptor
Not for quite some time. I made my flange by hand from scratch.
On the list of things to do. I got a really nice drill press for XMAS but damaged the arbor chuck on install, the only part not covered by warranty. I am waiting to pull the spare engine so I can set it all up on the stand before going in.
bgkast I just bought a liberty turbo, so I could use an adaptor now.
bgkast I just bought a liberty turbo, so I could use an adaptor now.
bgkast It pushes 26.5 psi of boost to give 160 HP for the 2.8L Jeep engine, so it should be good enough for me.There was some discussion of FI's install that he might be hitting a wall in the top end of RPMs. I cant wait to see for myself
Redline of that engine is 4300 RPM.
bgkast It pushes 26.5 psi of boost to give 160 HP for the 2.8L Jeep engine, so it should be good enough for me.There was some discussion of FI's install that he might be hitting a wall in the top end of RPMs. I cant wait to see for myself
Redline of that engine is 4300 RPM.
I calculate 25.35 lb/min at 15 psi of boost, 22.78 lb/min at 12 psi.
Here are some good guides to turbo basics and calculations: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/tech_center.html">http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... enter.html</a><!-- m -->
Do you have a good drawing of the turbo adaptor made up? I may have found a place to water jet them for a real bargain. I will make up a adaptor drawing when I get my turbo if you don't.
Here is one rendering I have.
I hit up Jon Krouse on mshop in PM and sent him the files over. I think you replied to that thread as well. We shall see what comes of it.
In the 3D model I assume the top right hole is shared, and an extra long stud will need to be installed in the exhaust manifold? The large holes for the rest of the T3 holes are recesses for nuts correct? This thing will need to be 3/4" to 1" thick with those nut recesses. hock:
Who made the 3D model?
Some guy that wanted $150 for it. I laughed. $100 turbo... rolling eyes.
Anyways i think it can be done in 3/8s or certainly 1/2" easily enough. You will need to pull the studs from the t3 flange and install a 8->10mm stud (from VW head, already sourced em) and bore out the thread IIRC, the upper right is threaded on mine. If needed the bolt heads can be ground flat.
I am going to make a mock up in cardboard or styrofoam and mail it to him so he has something to look at physically. I'll post pics before I mail it to him.
Jon's a nice guy and it wouldn't surprise me if he made one for himself.
So Jon and I have been going back and forth. I took some additional pictures to help give him an Idea of whats needed. The 2 lower studs on the manifold can be turned into non threaded pass through holes for bolting. One of the other ones on the other side can be made into a passthrough which leaves us with one hole that has to be blind.
So it looks like the adapter plate and mounting is going to be fairly simple. The lower 2 studs are removable and when using the upper right hole as a pass through, you clear the second top stud. I'll have a draft up shortly.
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Booo when doing this there is not enough of an overlap of the exhaust holes... I did come up with something else.
So all of the red holes will have studs coming off of the adaptor? Is there enough room for a nut on the back side of the bottom holes of the stock manifold? (It's been awhile since I have looked at my spare)
I plan to try to draw up the adaptor in CAD at lunch today. Any word from Jon? If it does not work out with him I will try the water jet place near my house.
The lower ones on the t3 will be threaded so that they can be bolted in from behind. They will be smaller like an 8mm vs the 10mm stock stud. This will prevent from having to drill out the manifold. You will still have to drill out the passthrough on the turbo side.
bgkast Does anybody know what size the V band outlet is on the stock T3? What about the V band outlet on the Liberty turbo? We will need to come up with some transition piece to replace the stock accordion.I believe FI said they were the same on his turbo.
bgkast Does anybody know what size the V band outlet is on the stock T3? What about the V band outlet on the Liberty turbo? We will need to come up with some transition piece to replace the stock accordion.I believe FI said they were the same on his turbo.
OOOHHHH
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Do we want all of the stud holes to go all the way through the adaptor?
I will revise my CAD drawing tonight to remove the T3 inlet (I think we will have to grind the transition between the T3 rectangular inlet and the Liberty circular inlet by hand) and make the stud holes smaller so that threads can be tapped into them. I think the holes in my original drawing were oversized for passing bolts through.
Flange 2.0
I used this website for the hole sizes for the holes that are to be tapped: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.korit.com/tapndrill.htm">http://www.korit.com/tapndrill.htm</a><!-- m --> Because I did not know the pitch of the 8 and 10 mm studs I just used a middle value for the hole. For the pass-through hole sizes I used the diameters from Garrett.
This is how the current holes are set up:
Green - Pass through 8mm (for the 10mm ->8mm stud
Blue - Pass through 10 mm (will be counter sunk to fit a nut or allen head bolt)
Red - Threaded 10 mm (will receive bolts from back side of stock manifold, threaded holes in manifold will need to be bored out to pass through holes
Purple - Threaded 8mm (will have studs inserted to mount GT2056V)
TITS!@#!@#!$!@#$!@#$
I got the mockup and its a perfect fit.
Getting the T3 studs out of the exhaust manifold WILL require a good vise.
bgkast Cool! Pictures? So when will we see the final product?No pics yet, I am leaving town tomorrow for 3day camping trip with the boys (Who will be this years creekfighting champegne of the world?). The way it came out will leave plenty of room for error. It worked out great. I need to get a hole of the 10mm->8mm studs from the VW head studs, everything else will be easy to source.
bgkast Cool! Pictures? So when will we see the final product?No pics yet, I am leaving town tomorrow for 3day camping trip with the boys (Who will be this years creekfighting champegne of the world?). The way it came out will leave plenty of room for error. It worked out great. I need to get a hole of the 10mm->8mm studs from the VW head studs, everything else will be easy to source.
I think the 10MM to 8MM stud hole should be upsized to allow the 10MM part of the stud to pass through. We need 1/2" of 10mm to thread into the manifold, 1/2" of any size to pass through the adaptor, 1/2" of 8mm to pass through the Jeep turbo flange, and 1/2" or so for a nut and some extra threads. All of the studs like this I have seen are equal legnth on each side.
winmutt Getting the T3 studs out of the exhaust manifold WILL require a good vise.
winmutt Getting the T3 studs out of the exhaust manifold WILL require a good vise.
bgkast Ace hardware had all of the studs needed. The 8 to 10mm stud is 1.5" long, which will only give 3/8" of thread to screw into the exhaust manifold...hopefully that will do.thats all you can get in there. this was all in metric?
bgkast Ace hardware had all of the studs needed. The 8 to 10mm stud is 1.5" long, which will only give 3/8" of thread to screw into the exhaust manifold...hopefully that will do.thats all you can get in there. this was all in metric?
bgkast Ace hardware had all of the studs needed. The 8 to 10mm stud is 1.5" long, which will only give 3/8" of thread to screw into the exhaust manifold...hopefully that will do.
bgkast Ace hardware had all of the studs needed. The 8 to 10mm stud is 1.5" long, which will only give 3/8" of thread to screw into the exhaust manifold...hopefully that will do.
dieselkid I need to know what side to countersink the upper right hole. This side or the other?
dieselkid I need to know what side to countersink the upper right hole. This side or the other?
Sorry for the delay. Here are the fitment pics.
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