Poor mansw124 sportline conversion
Poor mansw124 sportline conversion
08-05-2010, 08:45 AM
#1
This post was last modified: 09-06-2010, 10:39 PM by winmutt.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
08-20-2010, 12:37 AM
#3
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
08-20-2010, 12:37 AM #3Wish I knew what you were talking about...
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
08-20-2010, 10:37 AM
#5
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
08-20-2010, 10:37 AM #5This whole thing
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
08-20-2010, 12:11 PM
#6
) but needs a complete suspension rebuild. I've got a laundry list of work to do on the 87 before I can even think about turbo upgrades. Originally I had planned on going with the Sportline option but its fairly pricey and for 30% less I can get stiffer and lower. H&R makes progressive rate lowering springs, Bilstein makes the coveted 3 valve Sport/Spring strut (W123 is limited at 2 valves on the HD) and the 500e swaybars are readily available at a decent price new (W123 rear swabar upgrade is NLA). Alot of people start working on the engine first, I always start with the suspension and brakes. No point in having a fast engine if you cant drive it fast in corners.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
W124's have two "sport" variants from MB. The "Sportline" option which lowered the car and added stiffer suspension and the 500E. The E500/500E was built by Porsche and has even stiffer suspension than the sportline. There was also the AMG option (pre merger) along with other after markets. There are four major factors for my leaving the W123 in favor of the W124. Multilink rear suspension, more body kit options, easier to find 5 speeds and they are much quieter at speed. My 87 300D has a near perfect body (well it did when I bought then I forgot to put it in park ) but needs a complete suspension rebuild. I've got a laundry list of work to do on the 87 before I can even think about turbo upgrades. Originally I had planned on going with the Sportline option but its fairly pricey and for 30% less I can get stiffer and lower. H&R makes progressive rate lowering springs, Bilstein makes the coveted 3 valve Sport/Spring strut (W123 is limited at 2 valves on the HD) and the 500e swaybars are readily available at a decent price new (W123 rear swabar upgrade is NLA).
Alot of people start working on the engine first, I always start with the suspension and brakes. No point in having a fast engine if you cant drive it fast in corners.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
08-20-2010, 01:46 PM
#7
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
08-20-2010, 01:46 PM #7Ahh, thanks for shedding some light.... Nice choice!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
08-23-2010, 12:10 AM
#8
hope this helps.
mbenzo300td
08-23-2010, 12:10 AM #8Winmutt. Ive got a w124 td as well and when i went through my suspension i went koni yellow adjustable (amazing) Eibach spiring (too ridgid) and 500e swaybars both front and back (not stiff enough in my opinion). I have load and right hight air bags in the rear which i dig. I wish however that i would have gone with h&r as i hear they are a bit softer over the bumps and limo sway bars. The diesel is so heavy up front that it still rolls a bit. But this is coming from someone who also drives an e30.
hope this helps.
08-23-2010, 12:22 PM
#11
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Nope. Its just that the only fun part of my days is driving around 2 big curves. And we have some nice roads up in the mountains up here... Deals gap for instance, 318 curves 11 miles.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
08-23-2010, 03:11 PM
#12
[quote='winmutt' pid='16638' dateline='1282584126']
Nope. Its just that the only fun part of my days is driving around 2 big curves. And we have some nice roads up in the mountains up here... Deal gap for instance, 318 curves 11 miles.
[/quote
Sounds like washington. The suspension really wakes a w124 up.
mbenzo300td
08-23-2010, 03:11 PM #12
[quote='winmutt' pid='16638' dateline='1282584126']
Nope. Its just that the only fun part of my days is driving around 2 big curves. And we have some nice roads up in the mountains up here... Deal gap for instance, 318 curves 11 miles.
[/quote
Sounds like washington. The suspension really wakes a w124 up.
08-23-2010, 03:41 PM
#13
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
08-23-2010, 03:41 PM #13I love my Eibach's . . . But they are on my Sprint lol
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
09-06-2010, 10:43 PM
#14
This post was last modified: 09-06-2010, 10:44 PM by winmutt.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
There was an e400 at the lot so I grabbed the front swaybar. Stock bar tapers and has three different sections on the ends. The E400 has only two and is thicker at the end. I reused my old bushing as they were still tight. Looking at the rear end it seems you have to drop the rear to get to that sway bar. Needless to say I will be putting those on hold till I find the right rear sway bar. Sounds silly? Bar cost me $15 and well worth the it. Not perfect but def more level up front.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
10-19-2010, 11:09 PM
#15
I am about convinced to sacrifice my 400e for my 300d. I was thinking of swapping the entire suspension and brakes to my 300d. As well as the whole black leather interior(my 300d exterior is black) then the 400e's body cladding.
Any thoughts?
10-20-2010, 03:43 PM
#16
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
The only thing that is useful is the brakes and the front sway bar IMO. I am not even sure the rear is different, even if it is the amount of work to do it when you can get a 500e sway bar has me waiting until I have cash for the 500e rear. The front is only useful because its a 30min or less swap. The brakes are bigger front (and back I believe).
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
diesaroo
Unregistered
10-22-2010, 02:31 PM
#17
diesaroo
10-22-2010, 02:31 PM #17Not trying to hijack anyone's thread here, but I'm in the same boat as I will be doing extensive suspension work in the near future on my '87 190d 2.5t. I'm currently looking at a sportline kit but am wondering if there isn't a cheaper option, providing similar results.
10-22-2010, 03:57 PM
#18
This post was last modified: 10-22-2010, 03:58 PM by winmutt.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
The H+R + bilsteins seems pretty good, I have yet to do the rear so the front is doing double time. The bushings are pricey and I havent found an alternative. GSXR just used OE and so did I.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
12-01-2010, 03:24 AM
#19
(08-23-2010, 12:22 PM)winmutt 318 curves 11 miles.
:O :O
also, what is the best way to go for new bushings? just got my $700 82 300D... front suspension is shot... actually have to fabricate a new plate/ brace for where the passenger side strut rod ties into the body... theres a reason it was $700, lol... but it came with a confirmed $786 worth of new in the box parts, mostly NOS Mercedes stuff, including a $306 Mercedes sending unit for the fuel tank... there was another 200-300 worth of little gaskets, filters, vacuum actuators and random stuff i didnt want to waste the parts guys time with looking up, and 5 factory Mercedes Service Manuals, as well as 8 other Mercedes booklets, two devoted to exploded view parts diagrams with part numbers on each part. one of the "Service Manuals" is devoted strictly to "Specialty Tools"... GREAT resource for if/ when i need to fab up a special tool. it had 291k when i got it from the original owner, kept it up meticulously (well minus the suspension, lol) the interior is in great shape... busting out the welder in a few weeks to attend to the structural issues, lol
This post was last modified: 12-01-2010, 03:38 AM by AMCtilldeath.
There's no replacement for displacement... except for the TURBO IN MY BASEMENT!
AMCtilldeath
12-01-2010, 03:24 AM #19(08-23-2010, 12:22 PM)winmutt 318 curves 11 miles.
:O :O
also, what is the best way to go for new bushings? just got my $700 82 300D... front suspension is shot... actually have to fabricate a new plate/ brace for where the passenger side strut rod ties into the body... theres a reason it was $700, lol... but it came with a confirmed $786 worth of new in the box parts, mostly NOS Mercedes stuff, including a $306 Mercedes sending unit for the fuel tank... there was another 200-300 worth of little gaskets, filters, vacuum actuators and random stuff i didnt want to waste the parts guys time with looking up, and 5 factory Mercedes Service Manuals, as well as 8 other Mercedes booklets, two devoted to exploded view parts diagrams with part numbers on each part. one of the "Service Manuals" is devoted strictly to "Specialty Tools"... GREAT resource for if/ when i need to fab up a special tool. it had 291k when i got it from the original owner, kept it up meticulously (well minus the suspension, lol) the interior is in great shape... busting out the welder in a few weeks to attend to the structural issues, lol
There's no replacement for displacement... except for the TURBO IN MY BASEMENT!
12-01-2010, 09:22 AM
#20
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
I use rusty @ buymbparts.biz because he is local to me and if you get on the horn with him he will do his best to match a price. I have been a customer so long now that only in extreme cases do I not mind paying more. Your car is a W123so this is OT but when you do replace the LCA bushings use the 3 piece from the w126. In the manual it specifies to use it for 15" or larger wheels.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
12-02-2010, 07:38 AM
#21
(10-20-2010, 03:43 PM)winmutt I am not even sure the rear is different
I believe all V8 W124's have a much sturdier/larger rear subframe. I know the 500E does, and I'm pretty sure the 400E does as well.
This post was last modified: 12-02-2010, 07:43 AM by Tymbrymi.
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
(10-20-2010, 03:43 PM)winmutt I am not even sure the rear is different
I believe all V8 W124's have a much sturdier/larger rear subframe. I know the 500E does, and I'm pretty sure the 400E does as well.
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
12-02-2010, 12:30 PM
#23
(12-02-2010, 10:01 AM)winmutt There are sportline options for the rear but essentially they are the same.
I have a subframe that is significantly larger and more reinforced than the stock one on my 300TD. I don't remember if it came off of a 400E or 500E. Same mounting points and all that.
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
(12-02-2010, 10:01 AM)winmutt There are sportline options for the rear but essentially they are the same.
I have a subframe that is significantly larger and more reinforced than the stock one on my 300TD. I don't remember if it came off of a 400E or 500E. Same mounting points and all that.
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
12-03-2010, 08:45 AM
#25
(12-02-2010, 03:40 PM)winmutt Interesting. Are the links the same?
Yep! Everything is the same except the frame itself is much sturdier.
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
(12-02-2010, 03:40 PM)winmutt Interesting. Are the links the same?
Yep! Everything is the same except the frame itself is much sturdier.
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
06-17-2013, 01:40 PM
#26
The V8 rear subframe (should be same between 400/420 & 500) is a bit heavier duty & requires the updated 12mm bolt links, which have superceded the 10mm (IIRC) ones.... but prolly not worth the swap, especially since you have to upgrade the diff to 210mm, which to maintain factory 300D (OM603) ratio means you have to find a 93-95 E320/E280 (may be others) to get a 2.65:1 210mm one, the cover is significantly different between the smaller 185mm one that comes stock behind the 603. Ive got pics somewhere that Ill put in my yet to be constructed build thread for my w124 that show the physical differences between the two subframes and diffs...the larger diff is physically about 1.5" or so wider, but the axles enter the case within a 1/2" of the smaller one, so the axles swap without issue...
the rear brakes are slightly larger diameter, but much thicker & vented, which is the important facet of the upgrade...calipers are more difficult to come by tho...
Regarding interior swaps, the V8 models have different seat bottom brackets (trans tunnel is larger apparently) which make the rear carpet(under the front seats and back) different as well. You can cut new holes to make it work with the non-V8 seats, but the old holes will still be there...also the wiring between the old and new seats requires the old seat brakets&motors(at least witout mods)... the rear "C" pillar panels are different as well and would necessitate welding in different seat belt brackets to utilize, best bet would be to find the older style in the proper color.
Rear sway bar requires removal of subframe (al least partially) to be swapped. I installed an S600 one, even though it was similar dimensions to the stock one...not sure if its better or not yet as my suspension isn't finished enough for me to really flog yet.
This post was last modified: 06-17-2013, 02:03 PM by SurfRodder.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
06-17-2013, 01:40 PM #26A couple of things...
The V8 rear subframe (should be same between 400/420 & 500) is a bit heavier duty & requires the updated 12mm bolt links, which have superceded the 10mm (IIRC) ones.... but prolly not worth the swap, especially since you have to upgrade the diff to 210mm, which to maintain factory 300D (OM603) ratio means you have to find a 93-95 E320/E280 (may be others) to get a 2.65:1 210mm one, the cover is significantly different between the smaller 185mm one that comes stock behind the 603. Ive got pics somewhere that Ill put in my yet to be constructed build thread for my w124 that show the physical differences between the two subframes and diffs...the larger diff is physically about 1.5" or so wider, but the axles enter the case within a 1/2" of the smaller one, so the axles swap without issue...
the rear brakes are slightly larger diameter, but much thicker & vented, which is the important facet of the upgrade...calipers are more difficult to come by tho...
Regarding interior swaps, the V8 models have different seat bottom brackets (trans tunnel is larger apparently) which make the rear carpet(under the front seats and back) different as well. You can cut new holes to make it work with the non-V8 seats, but the old holes will still be there...also the wiring between the old and new seats requires the old seat brakets&motors(at least witout mods)... the rear "C" pillar panels are different as well and would necessitate welding in different seat belt brackets to utilize, best bet would be to find the older style in the proper color.
Rear sway bar requires removal of subframe (al least partially) to be swapped. I installed an S600 one, even though it was similar dimensions to the stock one...not sure if its better or not yet as my suspension isn't finished enough for me to really flog yet.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
07-26-2018, 02:36 PM
#27
(06-17-2013, 01:40 PM)SurfRodder A couple of things...
The V8 rear subframe (should be same between 400/420 & 500) is a bit heavier duty & requires the updated 12mm bolt links, which have superceded the 10mm (IIRC) ones.... but prolly not worth the swap, especially since you have to upgrade the diff to 210mm, which to maintain factory 300D (OM603) ratio means you have to find a 93-95 E320/E280 (may be others) to get a 2.65:1 210mm one, the cover is significantly different between the smaller 185mm one that comes stock behind the 603. Ive got pics somewhere that Ill put in my yet to be constructed build thread for my w124 that show the physical differences between the two subframes and diffs...the larger diff is physically about 1.5" or so wider, but the axles enter the case within a 1/2" of the smaller one, so the axles swap without issue...
the rear brakes are slightly larger diameter, but much thicker & vented, which is the important facet of the upgrade...calipers are more difficult to come by tho...
Regarding interior swaps, the V8 models have different seat bottom brackets (trans tunnel is larger apparently) which make the rear carpet(under the front seats and back) different as well. You can cut new holes to make it work with the non-V8 seats, but the old holes will still be there...also the wiring between the old and new seats requires the old seat brakets&motors(at least witout mods)... the rear "C" pillar panels are different as well and would necessitate welding in different seat belt brackets to utilize, best bet would be to find the older style in the proper color.
Rear sway bar requires removal of subframe (al least partially) to be swapped. I installed an S600 one, even though it was similar dimensions to the stock one...not sure if its better or not yet as my suspension isn't finished enough for me to really flog yet.
I had been planning to transplant a v8 driveline into my 87 td for awhile, anticipating more power from the myna on the 606. But even with 6mm elements it ate a halfshaft and twisted the stock diff out of the subframe, which moved up my timeline a bit.
Will the eight bolt guibos fit on the earlier, 6 bolt cars? The other 210mm 2.65 diff is from 91-93 500SL, but it has the four bolt flange for the V8 driveline. My plan is to put a four bolt flange on the 722.3 and transplant the entire subframe, driveshaft and center support from an e420, but I don't know if the larger guibo will clear the transmission mount on the front of the driveshaft.
The V8 half shafts have larger inner CV joints, more splines, etc. Outer joints are identical to the m104 stuff.
500e rear swaybars are NLA. The w210 e55 bar will fit, but needs the spacer plate for the SLS sensor or it will hit the bar. w211 stuff will also fit, basically, on the rear sway. And it is 21mm, up from 18 on the 500e and e55.
I will have to look into the rear link bolt sizes. Didn't know that. I bought all the urethane bushings from Poland/strongflex or strongthane or whatever so will stick those in wherever possible when I switch to the V8 subframe.
atypicalguy
07-26-2018, 02:36 PM #27(06-17-2013, 01:40 PM)SurfRodder A couple of things...
The V8 rear subframe (should be same between 400/420 & 500) is a bit heavier duty & requires the updated 12mm bolt links, which have superceded the 10mm (IIRC) ones.... but prolly not worth the swap, especially since you have to upgrade the diff to 210mm, which to maintain factory 300D (OM603) ratio means you have to find a 93-95 E320/E280 (may be others) to get a 2.65:1 210mm one, the cover is significantly different between the smaller 185mm one that comes stock behind the 603. Ive got pics somewhere that Ill put in my yet to be constructed build thread for my w124 that show the physical differences between the two subframes and diffs...the larger diff is physically about 1.5" or so wider, but the axles enter the case within a 1/2" of the smaller one, so the axles swap without issue...
the rear brakes are slightly larger diameter, but much thicker & vented, which is the important facet of the upgrade...calipers are more difficult to come by tho...
Regarding interior swaps, the V8 models have different seat bottom brackets (trans tunnel is larger apparently) which make the rear carpet(under the front seats and back) different as well. You can cut new holes to make it work with the non-V8 seats, but the old holes will still be there...also the wiring between the old and new seats requires the old seat brakets&motors(at least witout mods)... the rear "C" pillar panels are different as well and would necessitate welding in different seat belt brackets to utilize, best bet would be to find the older style in the proper color.
Rear sway bar requires removal of subframe (al least partially) to be swapped. I installed an S600 one, even though it was similar dimensions to the stock one...not sure if its better or not yet as my suspension isn't finished enough for me to really flog yet.
I had been planning to transplant a v8 driveline into my 87 td for awhile, anticipating more power from the myna on the 606. But even with 6mm elements it ate a halfshaft and twisted the stock diff out of the subframe, which moved up my timeline a bit.
Will the eight bolt guibos fit on the earlier, 6 bolt cars? The other 210mm 2.65 diff is from 91-93 500SL, but it has the four bolt flange for the V8 driveline. My plan is to put a four bolt flange on the 722.3 and transplant the entire subframe, driveshaft and center support from an e420, but I don't know if the larger guibo will clear the transmission mount on the front of the driveshaft.
The V8 half shafts have larger inner CV joints, more splines, etc. Outer joints are identical to the m104 stuff.
500e rear swaybars are NLA. The w210 e55 bar will fit, but needs the spacer plate for the SLS sensor or it will hit the bar. w211 stuff will also fit, basically, on the rear sway. And it is 21mm, up from 18 on the 500e and e55.
I will have to look into the rear link bolt sizes. Didn't know that. I bought all the urethane bushings from Poland/strongflex or strongthane or whatever so will stick those in wherever possible when I switch to the V8 subframe.
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