i need some other than bad news
i need some other than bad news
03-28-2011, 07:42 AM
#1
1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD with a 1978 (I think) 300D engine
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300TD with 60K miles that came included with rust
After my brother used the car for about 200 miles, he brought it back with 2-3 quarts of oil left in the engine and a clanking noise. Every advice I heard was bad. I changed the oil and bottom oil pan gasket ( I was planning on it anyway) and still clacking that you hear more trough the exhaust pipe (straight 2") especialy when idling. What non-major things can I try before getting into more complicated things?
1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD with a 1978 (I think) 300D engine
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300TD with 60K miles that came included with rust
03-28-2011, 08:19 AM
#2
(03-28-2011, 07:42 AM)EuroBenz What non-major things can I try before getting into more complicated things?
Straight-swapping in a new engine instead of trying to fix the fried one.
ForcedInduction
03-28-2011, 08:19 AM
#2
(03-28-2011, 07:42 AM)EuroBenz What non-major things can I try before getting into more complicated things?
Straight-swapping in a new engine instead of trying to fix the fried one.
03-29-2011, 07:28 AM
#3
1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD with a 1978 (I think) 300D engine
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300TD with 60K miles that came included with rust
Couldn't just be something simple, like a valve adjustment. I found some turbo diesel engines for sale, they just have unknown condition. The car still drives as strong as before, its just the noise....
1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD with a 1978 (I think) 300D engine
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300TD with 60K miles that came included with rust
03-29-2011, 06:46 PM
#4
Or just flog the hell out of it....
Ed
yankneck696
03-29-2011, 06:46 PM #4You can try using a long screwdriver against your ear to isolate the location the noise is comming from, or just buy a mechanic's stethescope. First thing would be a full oil & filter change, maybe a bit heavier of viscosity. Even if it is scrap, you might get some time out of it to source an engine if the car is worth it.
Or just flog the hell out of it....
Ed
03-30-2011, 10:12 AM
#5
(03-28-2011, 08:19 AM)ForcedInduction(03-28-2011, 07:42 AM)EuroBenz What non-major things can I try before getting into more complicated things?
Straight-swapping in a new engine instead of trying to fix the fried one.
Head is cheaper and easier.
More than likely bent valve. Welcome to my world.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(03-28-2011, 08:19 AM)ForcedInduction(03-28-2011, 07:42 AM)EuroBenz What non-major things can I try before getting into more complicated things?
Straight-swapping in a new engine instead of trying to fix the fried one.
Head is cheaper and easier.
More than likely bent valve. Welcome to my world.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
03-30-2011, 12:22 PM
#6
(03-30-2011, 10:12 AM)winmutt(03-28-2011, 08:19 AM)ForcedInduction(03-28-2011, 07:42 AM)EuroBenz What non-major things can I try before getting into more complicated things?
Straight-swapping in a new engine instead of trying to fix the fried one.
Head is cheaper and easier.
More than likely bent valve. Welcome to my world.
What do you mean by head? And how cheap can it be in your opinion?
1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD with a 1978 (I think) 300D engine
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300TD with 60K miles that came included with rust
(03-30-2011, 10:12 AM)winmutt(03-28-2011, 08:19 AM)ForcedInduction(03-28-2011, 07:42 AM)EuroBenz What non-major things can I try before getting into more complicated things?
Straight-swapping in a new engine instead of trying to fix the fried one.
Head is cheaper and easier.
More than likely bent valve. Welcome to my world.
What do you mean by head? And how cheap can it be in your opinion?
1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD with a 1978 (I think) 300D engine
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300TD with 60K miles that came included with rust
04-03-2011, 04:56 PM
#8
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
04-03-2011, 04:56 PM #8I say look for a turbo w123 on craigslist with a strong motor but tired body, and steal the drivetrain for your car.
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
04-17-2011, 06:16 PM
#9
(04-01-2011, 07:49 AM)winmutt I mean by swapping in a used head from the junkyard. Depend entirely on the price at the yard. Here it is about $50.
Surprise, surprise! After driving around today, everything seemed to get back to normal. Shut it off then on again, everything good! Shut it off and drove to Tilted Kilt, and same problem. Engine seems to give up at every stop light. I'll have to hold on the brake and push the gas for a bit to keep it alive. I'll try a diesel purge. Could it be a dirty injector?
1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD with a 1978 (I think) 300D engine
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300TD with 60K miles that came included with rust
(04-01-2011, 07:49 AM)winmutt I mean by swapping in a used head from the junkyard. Depend entirely on the price at the yard. Here it is about $50.
Surprise, surprise! After driving around today, everything seemed to get back to normal. Shut it off then on again, everything good! Shut it off and drove to Tilted Kilt, and same problem. Engine seems to give up at every stop light. I'll have to hold on the brake and push the gas for a bit to keep it alive. I'll try a diesel purge. Could it be a dirty injector?
1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD with a 1978 (I think) 300D engine
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300TD with 60K miles that came included with rust
04-19-2011, 12:11 AM
#10
Ich liebe meine Autos!
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | 156K Miles | 2nd Owner | EGR Disabled [Removal Pending] | ALDA Removed | Straight Pipes | GT2256V??? | Laser Interceptor | Engine swap over summer, hopefully with GT2256V attached...
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | Odo Stopped at 160K (at least 50K more) | EGR Disabled | ALDA All The Way Out | Straight pipes | FM-870 Remote Start Alarm System | B100 Biodiesel | AC Fixed x2 | Trunk crushed in
| Retired to garage.Excessive speeding? It ain't excessive till I redline!
Valve adjustment?
Ich liebe meine Autos!
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | 156K Miles | 2nd Owner | EGR Disabled [Removal Pending] | ALDA Removed | Straight Pipes | GT2256V??? | Laser Interceptor | Engine swap over summer, hopefully with GT2256V attached...
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | Odo Stopped at 160K (at least 50K more) | EGR Disabled | ALDA All The Way Out | Straight pipes | FM-870 Remote Start Alarm System | B100 Biodiesel | AC Fixed x2 | Trunk crushed in
| Retired to garage.Excessive speeding? It ain't excessive till I redline!
04-19-2011, 03:15 PM
#12
If it were an injecter issue, supposedly you can crack the line loose and have no change in rpm. I have tried this technique and not had any help trouble shooting. But It might work for you. I recently had an issue that sounds very similar. Just didn't seem to idle right at times, seemed a lil down on power. Went ahead and did a valve adjust and it was all down hill from there. Ended up doing a compression test finding cly. 2 and 4 at about 300 cold and 250 hot. 1,3 and 5 were 400. Pulled the head only to find the valve not seating.(On bench, turning cam by hand) seemed as if they would contact seat and pull in from the side. After disassembly found valve stems worn. Seats and guides ok. Condition: poor idle (low rpm,rough) tap/knock noise from top end, and had lick a thump sound from intake and exhaust.
This post was last modified: 04-19-2011, 03:29 PM by makin' smoke.
83' 300SD tuning begins soon.
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 5.9l Cummins
Superchips programmer, S&B intake, 5" straight pipe, 8" Sky jacket lift and 37" Toyota muds.
makin' smoke
04-19-2011, 03:15 PM #12I just saved a bunch of money on car insurance!
If it were an injecter issue, supposedly you can crack the line loose and have no change in rpm. I have tried this technique and not had any help trouble shooting. But It might work for you. I recently had an issue that sounds very similar. Just didn't seem to idle right at times, seemed a lil down on power. Went ahead and did a valve adjust and it was all down hill from there. Ended up doing a compression test finding cly. 2 and 4 at about 300 cold and 250 hot. 1,3 and 5 were 400. Pulled the head only to find the valve not seating.(On bench, turning cam by hand) seemed as if they would contact seat and pull in from the side. After disassembly found valve stems worn. Seats and guides ok. Condition: poor idle (low rpm,rough) tap/knock noise from top end, and had lick a thump sound from intake and exhaust.
83' 300SD tuning begins soon.
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 5.9l Cummins
Superchips programmer, S&B intake, 5" straight pipe, 8" Sky jacket lift and 37" Toyota muds.
04-19-2011, 07:17 PM
#14
83' 300SD tuning begins soon.
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 5.9l Cummins
Superchips programmer, S&B intake, 5" straight pipe, 8" Sky jacket lift and 37" Toyota muds.
makin' smoke
04-19-2011, 07:17 PM #14Most possible is an injector. If a nozzle drips or gets stuck open, it will knock like crazy. The technique I suggested in the previous post should show that. The knock should go away when line of the injector is loosened. The knocking caused by compression is called "nailing".I had a bad injector that came and went as I was driving before. Maybe that is what happened when it cleaned up for a few starts.food for thought if you end up breaking the motor down; had someone tell me about a motor nailing that ended up being a bad oil ring. The oil drawn into the combustion chamber was acting as extra fuel just like a bad injector. Also a bad injector usually has blue or grey smoke. You should pin point the knock, top or lower side. If on top, use a steth or screwdriver/round bar/broomstick like yankneck suggested. you will be able to hear a difference. Let us know what you find.
83' 300SD tuning begins soon.
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 5.9l Cummins
Superchips programmer, S&B intake, 5" straight pipe, 8" Sky jacket lift and 37" Toyota muds.
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