Are there any oil feed/supply line upgrades for our 300Ds?
Are there any oil feed/supply line upgrades for our 300Ds?
If there was a kit that would be cool, otherwise I have entertained the thought, just don't know what thread the banjo bolt is on the back of the IP
There is an oil port upgrade for the head.
Some independent race-minded tweaker wrote up a very technical paper that claimed the head was poorly supplied with oil at certain RPMs.
They modified some bores in the head and leading up to the head that increased oil flow.
You would have to do some searching, on the general interwebs to find it. Its kinda hard to find.
On mine, I used the stock turbo feed location at the back of the oil pump housing. It is a 14x1.5 thread, I used a banjo bolt and line similar to the pic in the OP.
(05-22-2011, 03:02 AM)tomnik I bet this will fail because of vibrations.
At least fix it to the intake manifold after shortening it.
Better try to get the type of hose shown in post 1#.
Tom
(05-22-2011, 03:02 AM)tomnik I bet this will fail because of vibrations.
At least fix it to the intake manifold after shortening it.
Better try to get the type of hose shown in post 1#.
Tom
found the following from another journal-bearing turbo manufacturer, and was wondering if anyone had any oil-feed pressure data associated with our stock turbos?
thanks,
manny
Holset permits oil return pipes to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal. All turbocharger applications require a pipe of internal diameter greater than 19 mm which has integrated connectors. To ensure oil returns into the engine under all operating conditions, the return connection into the engine sump must not be submerged and the outlet flange of the turbocharger must be 50 mm above the maximum oil level of the engine sump pan. Crankcase pressure should be limited ideally to 0.8 kPa (0.12 lbf/in2) but 1.4 kPa (0.20 lbf/in2) can be accepted by reference to Holset.
Oil pressure of 150 kPa (20 lbf/in2) must show at the oil inlet within 3 - 4 seconds of engine firing to prevent damage to turbocharger bearing system. A flexible supply pipe is recommended.
The minimum oil pressure when the engine is on load must be 210 kPa (30 lbf/in2). Maximum permissible operating pressure is 500 kPa (72 lbf/in2) although 600 kPa (88 lbf/in2) is permitted during cold start up. Under idling conditions pressure should not fall below 70 kPa (10 lbf/in2).
Recommended oil flows for the turbochargers are 2 litre/min at idle and 3 litre/min above maximumtorque speed.
Anyone wanna fab me something up like post #1. I know i could have a shop make me one in the.states when I get home pretty easily, just stockpiling stuff.:-) when I did my w115 manifold install I had to bend the crap out of the original line.
Remove the plate from the oil filter housing and drill out metric threads with 9/16" bit and tap with 3/8" NPT. Buy 3/8" to 4an 90* fitting and run it to the turbo. Buy a steel weld on male 4an fitting and braze or TIG weld it to existing flange. I'd post pictures of this but I don't know how to here. They are here on page 32 of my build.http://www.dieselbombers.com/diesel-engine-conversions/118649-om617-96-jeep-cherokee-build-thread-32.html
i have been busy lately working on another project so i haven't had time to go measure but the stock oil line on the filter side is a m14x1.5 which i have a banjo fitting to an4 adapter for sitting around. i was wondering how long of a hose to fabricate between that and the turbo oil feed. i am installing a HE221W which is in the same location and has an an4 adapter.
Really old thread...BUT
When I make custom lines like this, I have used a coat hanger or heavy tie/bailing wire to route where I intend to put the hose and make sure it will fit thru all brackets, etc. Then once it is removed it gets straightened out and measured. Be sure to include the length added by whatever fittings you are using (those banjo style ones tend to be a bit long) and subtract that from the above measurement to get the final assembled length.
This method is nice as you can use the banjo bolt to secure one sire and the loop of that one gives you a reference for the banjo fitting as well.